Ebook A comprehensive dictionary of textile: Phần 1

a durable plain weave fabric characterised by width wise cords formed by using fine warp yarns and course weft yarns, used in dresses, coats, suits, ribbons, dr[r]

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TEXTILE

Chief Editor & Compiler:

~ Mason Brown

~

All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, electronically or otherwise, in print, photoprint, micro film or by any other means without written permission from the publisher

ISBN

Copyright

Revised Edition

Published by

Publisher

2010

ABHISHEK PUBLICATIONS, S.C.O 57-59, Sector 17-C, CHANDIGARH-1600 17 (India) Ph.-2707562,Fax-OI72-2704668 Email: abhpub@yahoo.com

Preface

=4 ======*======11 to finally get stitched into clothes that we wear

This book gives you an insight for terminology used in the textile industry It should be helpful for everyone who is associated with garment, and textile industry

II aha I accfJrdion .aba

a loose cloak, possibly of Ara-bian origin related to the J ama in men's wear

• abaca

this vegetable leaf fibre is de-rived from the Musa textiles plant It is mainly grown in the Philippines but is also found, in smaller amounts in Mrica, Ma-laysia, Indonesia and Costa Rica The fibre is obtained from the outer layer of the leaf Pro-cessing occurs when it is sepa-rated mechanically decorticated into lengths varying from to feet Abaca is very strong and has great lustre It is very resis-tant to damage from salt wa-ter

• abho

5

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~ • absorbency

~ the ability of a fabric to take in ; moisture Absorbency is a very : important property, which

af-~ fects many other characteristics I such as skin comfort, static

~ build-up, shrinkage, stain re-: moval, water repelience, and

~ wrinkle recovery

~ • abstract

~ refers to a design in the abstract I style, i.e one that represents a : general form and not an

accu-~ rate representation of a subject

~ • accessories

~ additional ornamentation to

; accompany the garment in

or-: der to create a certain

look/im-~ age (shoes, jewelleries etc.) a loose shirt-like garment,

worn by women mostly in Gujarat and Rajasthan The I garment is generally worn I with short, wide sleeves, open at the neck, loose-fitting on the upper part and really I flared in its skirt Often

deco-~ • accordion rated with embroidery and

mirror-glass work ~ Ixl rib knit alternating with a ; 2x2 rib

6 aeet4te IlIChkan II

• acetate I chloride) or ethanoic (acetic) acetate, one of the ftrst manu- I acid The reaction proceeds un-factured ftbres is soft and has a til primary cellulose acetate con-crisp feel It has the lustrous taining 60% of combined appearance of silk and excellent I ethanoic acid is formed Second-drapability It is not a strong ft- I ary cellulose acetate is formed bre, as it is resistance to abra- from the primary acetate by sion is poor It does resist I partial hydrolysis It is obtained shrinkage, moths, and mildew I by adding water in excess of that and does not absorb moisture I required to react with the re-readily Its yarns are pliable and sidual ethanoic anhydride, supple and will always sprig I which thus allows the hydroly-back to their original shape It I sis to take place

is fast drying and when heated I • acetone-soluble cellulose becomes more pliable Acetone ethanoate

and alcohol dissolve acetate ft- I

: when the hydrolysis of primary bres Special dyes are required ~ cellulose ethanoate (acetate) is

if it is be coloured Today ac- allowed to proceed until ap-etate can be found in a variety ~

of colours proximately 54% of combined

ethanoic (acetic) acid remains in the term used to describe ft- I the product, the cellulose ac-bres of cellulose ethanoate (ac- etate is soluble in propanone etate) wherein between 74% (acetone) and is sometimes and 92% of the hydroxyl groups I known as acetone-soluble cellu-of the original cellulose are I lose acetate

ethanoylated (acetylated) Puri-fied cellulose is ethanoylated (acetylated) byethanoic anhy-dride (acetic anhyanhy-dride) in the presence of a catalyst (such as

I • acetylation

I the process of introducing an ethanoyl (acetyl) radical into an organic molecule

sulphuric acid or perchloric I • achkan acid) in a solvent such as

dichloromethane (methylene a men's long-sleeved coat-like I garment, worn close to the

7

.~====~~==~==

body, reaching down to the ~ - affinity

knees or even lower, and

but-toned in front-middle ; substantiality It is the difference ~ the quantitative expression of

_ acid dye : between the chemical potential

an anionic dye characterised by ~ ?f the dye in its standard state

substantiality for protein and ~ ~ the fib:e and the ~o~respond­

polyamide fibres and usually I mg chemIcal potennal m the dye

applied from an acidic or neu- : bath

I

tral dye bath : - agneline

• I

_ acrylic : a black woollen fabric with a

1 it is manufactured fibres of ~ very long nape It is coarse and

acrylonitrile It is a durable fi- I heavy When stretched the

fi-bre with a soft, woolly feel It ~ bre~ tighten and become water

has an uneven surface makin : reSIstant

difli , g l

It erent from most manu- : - aguillettes

factured fibres It comes in a f l ' -I metal tagg d e aces I th at rep ace I

varIety ~ co <:>urs, and can be ; the sewn ones, to attach the

dyed easil~ It IS reSIstant to sun : breeches to the doublet

and chemICals I

2 a term used to describe fibres ~ - air laying

composed of synthetic linear ~ a method of forming a web (or

macromolecules having in the : batt) of staple fibres in which

chain at least 85% (by mass) of ~ the fibres are dispersed into an

recurring cyanoethene (acry- ; air stream and condensed from

lonitrile) groups : the air stream on to a

perme-~ able cage or conveyor

- acrylic coated

£ b I - albatross

a La rIC which has been coated :

generally on the back, wid~ ~ a lightweight, plain weave

fab-acrylic resin to make it water- ; ric traditionally of wool or wool

proof or dawn proof ~ blends with a napped, fleecy

: surface So named because the

I texture resembles the breast of

8

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albert cloth I allover lace II

an albatross Usually light in colour, used in infant's wear, sleep wears

• albert cloth

it has a double layer of wool and is reversible Faces and backs

I droxide, the remainder being

I water During the steeping of

the cellulose in sodium hydrox-ide (18-20% wjw) to form the

I alkali-cellulose, soluble

impuri-ties, including soluble cellulose are removed

may vary in colour and pattern I

Provides additional warmth and • alley

body the area between the breaker

• alencon lace I carding and finisher carding

I machines in which the alley

ten-der works a needlepoint lace on a fme net

ground characterised by a heavy I

thread (cordon net) outlining the design Usually machine made but sometimes the cordon net is inserted by hand

• alligator skin

a design, printed or embossed,

I that suggests the characteristic

I texture of an alligator

I • allonge-perruqe

• alginate (fibre) (generic

name) I French term for periwig, also a term used to describe fibres called state-wig Worn by fash-composed of metallic salts of ~ ionable men in the late 17th, alginic acid I early 18th century, introduced

• alkali-cellulose probably by Louis XIV and usu-ally in black or dark brown the product of the interaction of I shades The periwig had very

strong sodium hydroxide with ~ high 'horns' on top of the fore-purified cellulose.note: in the head and was extremely long, manufacture of viscose fibres, I curled and flowing down the

the cellulose may be cotton lint- I back and over the shoulders

ers or wood-pulp Mter

press-ing, alkali-cellulose usually con- I • allover lace

tains approximately 30% of cel- I general term for a wide lace in

lulose and 15% of sodium hy- which the pattern covers the full

II alpaca I angora

width of the fabric It is gener-ally sold and cut in the same way as non-lace fabrics

- alpaca

a natural hair fibre obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a do-mesticated member of the llama family The fibre is most commonly used in fabrics made into dresses, suits, coats, and sweaters Also imitated in wool, wool and alpaca, rayon, mohair and rayon or cotton and a cot-ton warp and alpaca filling also synthetics e.g orlon

Fine, silk -like, soft, lightweight and warm It is very rich and silky with considerable lustre and resembles mohair If guard hairs are used, it is inclined to be beardy It is strong and du-rable Alpaca is found in white, black, fawn or grey The fibres are less coarse than those of the llama but are higher in tensile strength

- alter

to change the pattern so that it corresponds to body measure-ments

9

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~ on the back of the hand, in-; vented in 1684 by MIle Ie : Rochois, an actress at the

op-~ era, who had unsightly arms

1

: _ anaphe

~ a wild silk from the larvae of

~ the Anaphe moth

~ - angarakfia

; a long, full-sleeved outerwear : for men, literally 'that which

1 •

: protects or covers the hmbs'

~ Closely related to the J ama ; (q.v.), but possibly of native, : Indian origin Generally open at

~ the chest and tied in front, with

1 an inner flap or parda covering

~ the chest Full-skirted and of : varying lengths

1

: _ angiaiangika

~ short, tight-fitting bodice worn

~ by women in India from very ; early times Literally, 'covering : for the body'

1

: - angora

I

: the hair of the angora rabbit

~ The origin of the angora breed ; is unclear It is believed to

: corne from France, developed

~ from a mutation in a wild rab-_ amadis Sleeve ~ bit, in the 18th century Note:

I

· the hair of the Angora goat is

tight-fitting sleeve continuing

~lO===========;"Bom904t IIIPJNIrentwtdlthiclmess II

referred to as mohair I raffe are popular motifs

• angora goat I • anionic dye

I a dye that dissociates in

aque-ous solution to give a negatively charged ion

scoured mohair appears smooth and white It varies in fmeness and is highly resilient, very strong and has high lustre Its value is determined by its I

lustre and not its sofmess

• anti bacterial

finish that makes a fabric

resis-I tant to the growth of bacteria

Used extensively in industries

such as ·carpet, upholstery, cur- I • anti pill

tain an~utomobile cloth I a fmish applied to fleece which

• angora rabbit I involves shearing the surface so

hair from the angora rabbit It I that the fabric is less likely to

is indigenous to Asia Minor and pill

Turkey Often blended and • antique satin

mixed with wool to lower the I a reversible fabric, one side

price of the fmished article or I looks like satin and the other

to obtain fancy or novelty ef- side like shantung It often has fects a dark warp, which enhances • anidex (fibre)

a term used to describe fibres made from a synthetic linear polymer that consists of at least 50% by mass of one or more esters of a monohydric alcohol and propenoic acid (acrylic acid)

• animal skin

refers to a design which sug-gests the skin of an animal Leopard, tiger, zebra and

gi-I the texture Often used for I draperies

I • antique taffeta

a stiff plain weave fabric , often iridescent, with a stubbed weft

~ May be of silk or synthetics • antron

I brand of nylon fibre trade-I marked by the Du Pont Co

I • apparent wall thickness

; the apparent width of a fibre

II llramid I art/embroidery linen

wall as seen under the micro-scope In the maturity test for cotton, the apparent wall thick-ness is assessed visually at the widest part of the fibres as a fraction of the maximum ribbon width

_ aramid

11

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~ coloured ground, usually ; crossed by lines in a diamond : shape

I

: _ armour

I

: cotton, silk, wool, rayon,

syn-~ thetics, and blends Plain, twill,

I or rib, background often has a

~ small design either jacquard or this strong fibre does not : dobby made with warp floats have a melting point and is ~ on surface giving a raised ef-flame proof It retains its shape, ; fect Design is often in two even at high temperatures and : colours and rose The name is resistant to stretch ~ was derived from original

fab-2 a term used to describe fibres ~ ric, which was woven with a composed of synthetic linear ; small-interlaced design of chain macromolecules having in the : armour and used for military chain recurring amide groups, ~ equipment during the Cru-at least 85% of which are joined; sades

directly by two aromatic rings ; _ art linen and in which amide groups may :

be substituted for u to 50% of I It IS woven WI~ even threads

the amI 'd e groups P I : that are espeCIally good for

: embroIdery It IS very easy to - argentan lace I 'draw' the yarns for drawn

a needlepoint lace on a net ~ thread work Comes bleached, ground similar to alencon lace : or coloured Has a soft finish but on a larger net and without ~ _ art/embroidery linen the cordon net outline thread of I bal d I ' £ b

alencon : a ance p am weave la fIC

~ usually of linen or linen/cotton ; It is made from smooth round a design of various coloured dia- : yarns (not flattened by calender-mond shaped blocks on a single ~ ing) Used as a base for em-_ argyle

12

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asbestos I atmosphere for testing II

broidered table linen, pillow-cases, also in drapes, slipcovers and some apparel

• asbestos

I loops or curls, imitating the coat

I of an astrakhan lamb

Some-times made with a mohair warp to add lustre and curl to the

sur-I face Poor grades often have

a generic name used to de-scribe a family of naturally occurring fibrous hydrated I

silicates divided on the basis

cotton warp or back Luxuriant fur, curly and wavy Most popu-lar shade is brown It is a

I caracul lambskin from the

As-of mineralogical features into trakhan section of Russia serpentines and amphiboles I

Six varieties were of commer- I • atactic polymer

cial importance: serpentine: a linear polymer containing chrysotile mg3 (si2oS) (oh)4, asymmetrically-substituted car-amphiboles: actinolite ca2 I bon atoms in the repeating unit

(mgfe)5 (si6022) (oh)2, as- I of the main chain, a planar

pro-bestos grunerite ( amosite) : jection of whose structure has (femg)7 (si6022) (oh)2,' I the same substitute situated

ran-anthhophyllite (mgfe)7 I domly to anyone side or the

(si6022)( oh) 2, crocidolite other of the main chain na2fe2+3fe3+2(si6022)(oh)2, • atansaw

tremolite ca2mgS (si6022) I

(oh)2,the six varieties are deemed to be asbestos only when they have a fibrous form I

a wide, commodious chogha like garment for wrapping around the body

• asharfi buti I • atlas

I a warp knit fabric in which a set

of yarns shifts diagonally one wale per course for several

I courses, then returns to the

a popular textile design consist-ing of small floral discs or I

circles, sometimes with small patterns within the circle • astrakhan

original position

I • atmosphere for testing

a thick woven or knitted cloth

often of wool with a surface of I standard temperate

II aut011tatic foeder I baldrick

sphere: an atmosphere at the prevailing barometric pressure with a relative humidity of 65% and a temperature of 20°C, standard tropical atmo-sphere: an atmosphere at the prevailing barometric pressure with a relative humidity of 65% and a temperature of 27°C • automatic feeder

a machine that feeds a steady supply of raw, dirty cotton to

the carding machine • awning stripe

1 a design of wide even stripes

2 a heavy canvas fabric with this design May be yarn dyed or printed

• azlon

a term used to describe manu-factured fibres in which the fi-bre-forming substance is com-posed of any regenerated natu-rally occurring protein The iso-generic name is protein • back

the underside of the cloth as woven in the loom

• back frame

the side of a fly frame on which

13

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~ the bobbins, from which roving ; is drawn into the machine, are : held

I

: • backtanning

I

: an after-treatment to improve

I

: the wet fastness of dyed or

I printed silk: or nylon, using

ei-~ ther natural or synthetic tan-: ning agents

I

: • badla

I

: flat metallic wire, otten

silver-~ gilt, used in brocading and em-; broidery

; • baghal bandi

~ a kind of tunic or jacket, worn : shorts and fastened under the

~ armpits

~ • balagny cloak

~ first half of 17th century, cloak ; or cape with wide collar, in : France named after a military

~ hero

~ • balanced stripes

~ a design of stripes that are even ; in width and spacing

; • baldrick

; (French Bandelier) sword : hanger, usually decorated with

~ exquisite eIl}broidery, (often

14

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bale I bandanna II

metal thread embroidery) and I ally synthetic-polymer fibre) in

worn from the right shoulder I the form of an unpacked bale,

to the left hip, usually over the in the USA, a low cost pro-waistcoat or earlier bolero-style cess for dyeing cotton fabric to doublet, but under the coat or I produce a coloured warp and

justacorps Frequently worn I white weft

over the coat to show off the

I • baling press

embroidery, when the baldric had become very broad and I

long The sword (rapier,/later also dress-sword) hangs very low at: the knees

a machine for compressing bolts of cloth or waste into com-pact bales for shipment • ball warping

• bal~ I the winding of a large number

a package of compressed raw I of individual strands of yarn of

cottOb, weighing, for American a specified length onto a beam cotton, about 500 lbs., for in the form of a loose untwisted Egyptian, 700 lbs., Brazilian, I rope, employed chiefly when

250 lbs., and East Indian, 400 I yarn is to be dyed

lbs • band

• bale breaker the cotton belt that drives the spindle of textile machinery • bandanna

a machine used for opening cot-ton direct from a bale Layers of compressed cotton are taken I

from a bale and fed into a ma-chine where the tearing action of two coarse spiked rollers moving in opposite directions, I

produces a more open mass of :

I

tufts :

1 a print design characterised

I by white or brightly colour I motifs on a dark or bright

ground, most often red or navy Done by discharge or resist printing but originally in In-dia by tie-dyeing

• bale dyeing

1 dyeing of loose stock

(usu-2 a fabric, usually cotton with such a design

II bIJ1IIlhani I bllS de cone / de jupe / de 1'0; 15 • bandhani ~ used in silk for cravat cloth and a process of patterning cloth by

tie-dyeing in which the design is reserved on the undyed cloth by tying small spots very tightly with thread to protect them from the dye Popular III

Rajasthan and Gujarat • banyan

name given in England to men's jacket in Indian cloth The term is mostly used for indoor gar-ments 'dressing gowns' • barathea

an indistinct twill or broken rib-usually a twilled hopsack weave- with a fine textured ,slightly pebbled surface Often of silk or silk blended with wool, used for neckties,

; after five wear

; • bare pychon ka pyjama ; a pyjama with wide, flared legs ; • bark cloth

~ originally referred to fabric : made from the bark of trees

~ Now the term is used to

de-; scribe fabric with a surface tex-: ture resembling tree bark

I

: • barras

I

: a coarse linen fabric similar to

~ sackcloth, originally produced

I in Holland I • barre

; an imperfection, characterised

~ by a ridge or mark running in : the crosswise or lengthwise

di-~ rections of the fabric It can be women's fine suits and coats ; caused by tension variations in men and women's evenings : the knitting process, poor quai-wear Worsted, silk, rayon or ~ ity yarns, and problems during silk or rayon warp combined ~ the finishing process

with cotton or wool Usually a I • barrier fabric

twilled hopsack weaves Fine

textured, slightly pebbled sur- ; fabrics that are barriers to dust face Appears to be cut off-grain ~ , dust mites and associated

al-Very hard wearing It is still : lergens

often dyed black Women's suits ~ • bas de cotte / de jupe / de and coats, men's evening wear, I robe

dress goods in light fibres Also I in the second half of the 17th

16

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basic dye I batik 1/

century this term was used for I lationship Both balanced and

the lower part of the petticoat I unbalanced basket weave

fab-or skirt, which went with the rics can be produced Examples petticoat or skirt body, covered of basket weave construction by the gown body I include monk cloth and oxford

• basic dye cloth a cationic dye characterised by I

its substantivity for basic-dye-able acrylic and basic-dyebasic-dye-able

• basques

mid-17th century French word for short tabs at bodices and polyester fibres, especially the I male doublets that extended

former The term was origi-nally applied to tannin-mordant cotton dyes

• basin waste

the silk waste consisting of co-coons that could not be com-pletely reeled because of too frequent breaks in the thread • basket stitch

a knit construction with mostly purl loops in the pattern courses to give a basket weave look • basket weave

a variation of the plain weave construction, formed by treat-ing two or more warp yarns and/or two or more filling yarns as one unit in the weaving pro-cess Yarns in a basket weave are

I below the waist The jackets

with basques were worn in combination with skirts instead

I of gowns

I • bast fibre

I strong, soft, woody fibres, such

as flax, jute, hemp, and ramie, which are obtained from the

I inner bark in the stems of

cer-, tain plants , • batik

a traditional Indonesian dyeing process in which portions of

fab-I ric are coated with wax and I therefore resist the dye The

process can be repeated to achieve multi-colour designs

I Fabric usually has a veined

ap-pearance where the dye has gone through the cracks in the laid into the woven construction ,

flat, and maintain a parallel re- wax

II blltUte I balm

• batiste

a medium-weight, plain weave fabric, usually made of cotton or cotton blends End-uses in-clude blouses and dresses a sheer, fine, soft, light weight, plain weave fabric usu-ally of combed cotton or poly-ester/cotton It often has lengthwise streaks due to the use of ply yarns Used for

shirts blouses dresses

nightwear and lingerie

2 a lightweight smooth all wool fabric

3 a sheer silk fabric • battery

17 *===============

~ stripes in the filling direction

I Often-black warp The colour

: effects are usually startling or

I bO

: IZarre Mostly produced in

In-I dia Name derived from the

; Bajadere dancing girl of India,

: dedicated from birth to a

danc-~ ing life The Bayadere costume

~ includes the striped garment, a

; flimsy scarf or shawl, jewelled : trousers, spangles, sequins,

an-~ klets

~ • beaded

~ referring to a fabric

embel-; lished with beads

a magazine on the loom that

holds the full quills, cops, or I

bobbins of fllling yarn, and from which they are inserted into the

shuttle by an automatic chang- I

ing device • bave

the silk fibre complete with its natural gum (sericin) as it is withdrawn from a cocoon It is composed of two brims • bayadere

crosswise rib (plain or twill weave) Has brightly coloured I

: • beading lace I

: a machine made lace with a row

~ of openwork holes designed for

I the insertion of a decorative

rib-: bon I

: • beam I

1 a large spool "or roll, about

~18========== beam warping I beet II

three feet in diameter, on which warp or cloth is wound

2 to wind yarn from a dyed ball warp onto a section beam

, coats Twill and very heavily , napped, and filled Thick, gives excellent wear and very warm, resembles kersey , Length of nap varies with the

cloth and its uses Has a

luxu-the transferring of yarn from rious look Has the longest

bobbins or cheeses onto a warp ~ nap of all the napped fabrics

or section beam in the form of ; and usually somewhat silky

a wide sheet Several of these Often light coloured fibres

beams are run through the added to nap to increase shine

slashing machine to make one ~ Mostly used for warm coats

loom beam ; Cotton beaver is used for caps,

• beam warping

• beaming machine : shoe linings, work cloths,

Mari-~ time clothes and sports clothes

a machine which winds the

in-' where work is required dividual yarn ends from a

rope-like bundle and distributes' • bedford cord

them evenly over a section ,La cord cotton-like fabric with

beam raised ridges in the lengthwise

direction Since the fabric has a • beat up

, high strength and a high dura-bility, it is often used for uphol-stery and work clothes to align strands of filling yarn

and push them up close together ' as they are woven The reed ,

accomplishes this by advancing :

and receding from the cloth af- ~

ter each passage of the shuttle, ' driving each pick against the fell of cloth already woven • beaver cloth

2 a woven fabric constructed to show pronounced rounded cords in the warp direction with sunken lines between them , Used in trousers, uniforms, , hats, and upholstery

, • beet

a high quality, heavy, soft, a bundle or sheaf of tied flax wool cloth with a deep,

smooth nap Used in over- ; crop or straw

II beetled I birdseye

• beetled

a finishing process in which a

fabric usually linen or cotton is pounded to produce a hard flat surface with a sheen

• bellies (wool)

the coarser quality of wool from the underside of sheep • bengaline

a durable plain weave fabric characterised by width wise cords formed by using fine warp yarns and course weft yarns, used in dresses, coats, suits, ribbons, draperies

Silk, wool, rayon, synthetics, cotton Crosswise rib, warp faced First made of silk in Bengal, India Ribs are round and raised Often has wool or

19

*================

~ • bias

~ any direction in the fabric which

; does not exactly flow in the

di-: rection of the weft yarn

(verti-~ cal yarns) or warp yarns

(hori-I zontal yarns) of a fabric A true

~ bias makes an angle of 45

de-: gree across the length and

~ width of a fabric

~ • bi-component fibre

~ a man-made fibre having two

; distinct polymer components : Both components are

them-~ selves usually fibre forming

; Wool and some other animal : fibres are sometimes consid-I

: ered to be bi-component since

~ they possess a side-by-side

con-; figuration of the ortho- and

: para-cortex, which results in

~ crimp in the fibre

cotton dolling in the ribs, ~ • binche lace

which doesn't show Has a

ten-I a lace in which the lace motifs

dency to slip at the seams if : " ,

too tightly fitted Grosgrain ~ are apphqued to a ~a~hllle

and Petersham is bengaline cut ; made ,net ground ?ngmally

to ribbon widths The cloth is : made m Bmche BelgIUm

usually 40' wide Coats, suits, ~ • birdseye

millinery, trims, bouffant ~ a general term for a fabric with

dresses with a tailored look, I a surface texture of small,

uni-mourning cloth, draperies ~ form spots that suggest bird's

eyes Can be woven or knit