Nutrition and skin lessons for anti aging, beauty and healthy skin

Nutrition and Skin wwwwwwwwwwwww Apostolos Pappas Editor Nutrition and Skin Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin Editor Apostolos Pappas The Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center CPPW, A Division of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc Skillman, NJ 08558, USA apostolos_pappas@yahoo.com ISBN 978-1-4419-7966-7 e-ISBN 978-1-4419-7967-4 DOI 10.1007/978-1-4419-7967-4 Springer New York Dordrecht Heidelberg London Library of Congress Control Number: 2011935453 © Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011 All rights reserved This work may not be translated or copied in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher (Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, 233 Spring Street, New York, NY 10013, USA), except for brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis Use in connection with any form of information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed is forbidden The use in this publication of trade names, trademarks, service marks, and similar terms, even if they are not identified as such, is not to be taken as an expression of opinion as to whether or not they are subject to proprietary rights While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of going to press, neither the authors nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may be made The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein Printed on acid-free paper Springer is part of Springer Science+Business Media (www.springer.com) Preface Good health has been always associated with nutrition and skin quality It is apparent that we all desire to live longer healthy lives while maintaining a youthful appearance A vast amount of epidemiological and clinical studies link various nutrients to health benefits in tissues and organs Recent interest in these relations is triggering progressive reexploration by the dermatological community, particularly where connections between diet and skin have previously been dismissed A promising volume of publications and findings now support ideas and validate theories that key nutrients are imperative for healthy skin Today’s global economy urges food scientists and professionals to identify novel ways that can help producers reach consumers Undoubtedly, in the world of food science the dining table is the predominant route from the food producer to the consumer However, from any farmer who harvests flaxseeds or soybeans to every ingredient manufacturer who markets tocopherols, polyphenols, or plant extracts, it is apparent that there are many other routes to reach the consumer The wide variety of non-food consumer products offers numerous examples The abundant use of vitamins and antioxidants by the cosmetic industry and their effects on skin care and dermal health has been greatly underestimated, or perhaps unseen, in the food science community, which is wholly focused on dietary use of these nutrients Thus, not only might topical application of these products further establish the efficacy of these functional ingredients for use on skin, but their ingestion might be even more efficacious Current consumer trends have brought anti-aging and consumer products—from nutritional supplements to skin care—into billion dollar ranges that only drugs used to reach All of these products are tightly connected with the health, wellness, and needs of the modern-day consumer The main pillars of the marketing power behind these products are the pharmacological activity of “nutraceuticals.” This book serves to educate and decode the role of vitamins, essential fatty acids, and other nutraceuticals on skin health and their tremendous impact on skin health In addition, a discussion of the potential role of functional foods is provided Focus on skin conditions such as acne, dermatitis, dry scaly skin, or alopecia can provide v vi Preface comprehensive knowledge regarding the relation of nutrition and skin, as can a review of current nutritional clinical studies in dermatological research The contributing authors are leaders in their field who concentrate on facts and actual scientific studies They outline the need for more studies in this new field that is so close to the heart of the consumers in our society Indeed, the effort here is to concentrate not only on what we know but what we not (but need to) know to meet consumers’ needs We seek to elucidate not only the potential health benefits that certain diets or nutrients bring to various tissues and organs but also the contributing effects on our skin health and visible condition It is up to all of us—scientists, doctors, the industry, the sponsoring agencies, the government, and all the people— to find this extra time, effort, and help to address, although not life-threatening, an issue closely associated with the quality of life, health, and well-being Skillman, NJ Apostolos Pappas Contents   Introduction and Overview Apostolos Pappas Part I  Nutrients and Skin   Vitamin A and the Skin Rana Mohsen Elewa and Christos C Zouboulis   Relevance of the Cutaneous Vitamin D Endocrine System for Skin Physiology and Treatment of Skin Diseases Léa Trémezaygues and Jörg Reichrath 25   Photoprotection of the Skin with Vitamins C and E: Antioxidants and Synergies Karen E Burke 43   Carotenoids and Skin Sagar K Thakkar, Angus M Moodycliffe, and Myriam Richelle 59   Antioxidants and Skin Juergen Lademann, Maxim E Darvin, and Ulrike Heinrich 79   Minerals and the Skin Petra Winkler 91   Probiotics and Skin 111 Robert J Boyle, Sampo J Lahtinen, and Mimi L.K Tang Part II  Clinical Crossover Between Nutrition and Dermatology   Diet and Acne 131 Apostolos Pappas vii ebooksdownloadrace.blogspot.in viii Contents 10 Glycemic Load and Acne 145 Robyn Smith and Neil Mann 11 Essential Fatty Acids and Atopic Dermatitis 159 Anthony Vincent Rawlings 12 Hair Biology and Nutritional Influences 177 Michael Anthonavage 13 Detecting and Monitoring Nutrients on Skin Using Noninvasive Methods 195 Georgios N Stamatas and Nikiforos Kollias 14 Nutritional Clinical Studies in Dermatology 209 Aikaterini I Liakou, Michael J Theodorakis, and Christos C Zouboulis Index 221 Contributors Michael Anthonavage  Presperse, LLC, Somerset, NJ, USA Robert J Boyle  Department of Paediatrics, Imperial College London, London, UK Karen E Burke  Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY, USA Maxim E Darvin  Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany Rana Mohsen Elewa  Departments of Dermatology, Venereology, Allergology, and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Dessau, Germany Ulrike Heinrich  Institut für Experimentelle Dermatologie, Universität Witten-Herdecke, Witten-Annen, Germany Nikiforos Kollias  Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc, Skillman, NJ, USA Juergen Lademann  Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany Sampo J Lahtinen  Danisco Health & Nutrition, Kantvik, Finland Aikaterini I Liakou  Departments of Dermatology, Venereology, Allergology, and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Dessau, Germany Neil Mann  School of Applied Sciences, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Angus M Moodycliffe  Nestlé Research Center, Lausanne, Switzerland ix 214 A.I Liakou et al More recently, oral supplementation with the probiotic strain Lactobacillus johnsonii has been shown to accelerate the recovery of human skin immune homeostasis after UV-induced damage This specific strain associated with carotenoids (b-carotene 4.8 mg/day; lycopene 2 mg) was also able to counteract UV-induced decrease of Langerhans cell density in human volunteers (Bouilly-Gauthier et al 2010) There is ample emerging evidence that probiotic strains can modulate the immune system of the skin in a beneficial way, leading to preservation of skin homeostasis This could enable the design of novel nutrition-based compounds and interventions for preventing UV-induced damaging effects (Guéniche et al 2009) 14.3 Nutritional Abnormalities and the Skin 14.3.1 Malnutrition Primary nutritional deficiencies might be considered rare, but they are still prevalent in developing countries and should also be considered in developed countries in the setting of genetically predisposed disease states (MacDonald and Forsyth 2005) Most malnutrition syndromes in current medical practice are related to secondary elementary or macronutrient deficits due to prematurity (infants) or are seen in patients with long-term total parenteral nutrition, gastrointestinal pathology such as Crohn’s disease, neoplasias, cystic fibrosis, or intestinal bypass procedures They are also seen in chronic alcoholics and in individuals on restrictive diets (Tuerk and Fazel 2009) The skin is commonly involved and is often one of the first organs affected in nutritional deficiency, thus providing a key to the diagnosis The most commonly encountered nutritional deficit disorders relate to zinc, biotin, essential fatty acid, protein deficiency, and kwashiorkor [common in patients with a human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) infection] (Ryan and Goldsmith 1996) 14.3.2 Eating Disorders: Anorexia Nervosa and Bulimia Nervosa Many authors have reported skin signs in anorexia nervosa (AN) and bulimia nervosa (BN) (Tyler et al 2002; Strumia et al 2001, 2003; Glorio et al 2000a) Cutaneous manifestations constitute somatic expression of underlying disorders, vomiting, abuse of drugs such as laxatives and diuretics, and psychiatric morbidity Gupta et al (1987) classified skin manifestations of eating disorders into four groups: those due to (1) starvation and/or malnutrition; (2) self-vomiting; (3) drug consumption; or (4) concomitant psychiatric illness Glorio et al (2000b) further identified two main groups of signs: (1) frequent signs (xerosis, alopecia, caries, opaque and fragile hair, nail fragility); and (2) guiding signs (hypertrichosis, Russell’s sign, perimylolysis, self-induced dermatitis) Hediger et  al (2000) documented that a body mass index (BMI) of £16 should be considered a threshold value at or beyond which skin changes are more frequent 14  Nutritional Clinical Studies in Dermatology 215 Symptoms due to starvation include, in order of frequency: xerosis, lanugo-like body hair, telogen effluvium, carotenoderma, acne, hyperpigmentation, seborrheic dermatitis, acrocyanosis, perniosis, petechiae, livedo reticularis, interdigital intertrigo, paronychia, generalized pruritus, acquired striae distensae, slow wound healing, prurigo, edema, linear eczema craquelé, acral coldness, pellagra and scurvy, acrodermatitis entheropathica (Mitchell and Crow 2006) Lanugo-like body hair is a frequent sign of AN, especially in young patients It presents as fine, downy, pigmented hairs on the back, abdomen, and forearms It is not a sign of virilization and has been associated with decreased activity of the 5a-reductase enzyme system, probably due to hypothyroidism Acne might be referred to starvation but could itself be a risk factor for AN In fact, in psychologically vulnerable girls, a new diet behavior, adopted to control their acne, might actually lead to weight loss and AN Moreover, the prevalence of acne is difficult to evaluate owing to age, which naturally predisposes to the disease Carotenoderma is due to marked ingestion of carotenoid-rich vegetables low in calories Acrocyanosis could represent a more extreme form of a heat-conserving mechanism not uncommon in anorectics Raynaud’s phenomenon and perniosis due to endocrinological complications have been also reported Purpura is the result of bone marrow depression due to starvation and subsequent thrombocytopenia Life-threatening episodes of thrombocytopenia are reported in the typical restricting-type of AN with purpura, gingival, nasal and gastrointestinal bleeding, and apparent bone marrow hypoplasia (Abella et al 2002) Nail fragility, longitudinal ungueal striae, onychocryptosis, periungueal erythema, prurigo pigmentosa, pompholyx, eruptive neurofibromatosis, evident blood vessels due to decreased subcutaneous tissue and acquired pili torti have also been reported The most characteristic cutaneous sign of purging-type AN is Russell’s sign (knuckle calluses) The lesions involve calluses on the dorsal aspects of the dominant hand induced by the patients’ repeated introduction of the hand into the mouth It is a guiding sign in the diagnosis of eating disorders With purging-type AN, patients may experience adverse reactions of drugs, such as laxatives, diuretics, and appetite suppressants, which they often use Self-induced trauma often coexists with AN, varying from unconscious picking at the skin to severe self-destructive actions (Strumia 2009) 14.3.3 Obesity Obesity has been associated with multiple skin disorders, including altered skin barrier function, sebaceous gland physiology and sebum production, sweat gland biology and regulation, lymphatic drainage, collagen structure and functional properties, process of wound healing, distribution and pathobiology of subcutaneous adipose tissue, and impaired microcirculatory supply (Yosipovitch et  al 2007) Characteristic dermatological signs with obesity—particularly pronounced in morbid obesity and when co-morbidities such as the polycystic ovaries syndrome are 216 A.I Liakou et al present—include acanthosis nigricans, acrochordons, keratosis pilaris, hyperandrogenism, hirsutism, striae distensae, adiposis dolorosa, fat redistribution, lymphedema, chronic venous insufficiency, plantar hyperkeratosis, cellulitis, skin infections, hidradenitis suppurativa, tophaceous gout, and eruption of psoriasis and various dermatoses (Jabbour 2003; Krause 2008) 14.4 Nutrition, Skin Aging, and Skin Beauty Increased life expectancy is associated with a need to appear healthy and handsome Many attempts have been made to improve skin health and beauty by changing or supplementing the diet In 2001, Boelsma et al (2001) reviewed the effects of vitamin, carotenoid, and fatty acid supplementation for optimizing the skin condition and preventing skin diseases They concluded that nutritional factors show potential beneficial actions on the skin Recently, epidemiological evidence suggested that multivitamin use is associated with longer telomere length, a marker of biological aging, in women (Xu et al 2009) Skin, especially facial skin, is one of the most important factors in attractivity; therefore, prevention of premature signs of skin aging are considered among the top priorities Two reports have provided evidence that food and nutrient intake can indeed influence skin aging In 2001, Purba et al (2001) noted that actinic damage, especially skin wrinkling, may be associated with poor food habits In that study, high intake of vegetables, legumes, and olive oil appeared to be protective against cutaneous actinic damage In another report, higher intake of vitamin C and linoleic acid, as well as lower intake of fat and carbohydrate, were shown to be associated with better skin appearance (Cosgrove et al 2007) In addition to the traditional use of topical care, nutritional supplements have emerged as a new strategy to improve skin beauty Yamakoshi et al (2004) investigated the effect of oral intake of a proanthocyanidineenriched extract (201 mg/day over 6 months) on facial hyperpigmentation in women and demonstrated that this extract was able to improve chloasma, determined by clinical evaluation as well as by a colorimetric method Oral fish polysaccharides (3 × 250 mg day over 8 weeks) associated with an antioxidant mix have been shown to improve dermal thickness, skin wrinkling, color, and viscoelasticity after 2 months of supplementation (Distante et al 2002) Silicon (20  mg/day for 20  weeks) enhanced skin microrelief and mechanical properties in women with photo-damaged skin (Barel et al 2005) A combination of lycopene (6  mg), vitamin C (60  mg), and soy isoflavones (50  mg) has been shown to maintain skin density, improve skin firmness, and provide microrelief, hydration, and tone in menopausal women (Dréno 2003; Piccardi and Manissier 2009; Zouboulis et al 2009) 14  Nutritional Clinical Studies in Dermatology 217 14.5 Conclusion For a long time nutrition has been considered one of the principal factors influencing overall “well-being” and the perception of “health” in humans The skin, being the largest and heaviest endocrine organ in the body (Zouboulis 2009), provides a first impression about one’s biological condition, age, and beauty It reflects the psychosomatic balance and stress status It also constitutes a prime target for ingested nutrients, either directly or indirectly Increasing clinical appreciation of the growing significance of nutritional composition, patterns, habitual exposure and its interplay with multiple hormonal mediators, pathway cofactors, structural elements, and functional parameters of the skin have been underscored by emerging evidence from the literature Not only have nutritional deficiencies or excesses been shown to predispose to the onset or recurrence of various dermatological disorders, they are involved in the pathogenesis and clinical manifestations On the other hand, accurate knowledge and appropriate handling of our potential to manipulate individual nutritional aspects as treatment modalities in skin pathologies could provide a powerful, patient-friendly tool to prevent, alleviate, or even cure common diseases in dermatology Take-Home Messages • Proper nutrition in both caloric content and composition is reflected in healthy skin • Nutritional imbalances are mainly reflected in characteristic skin pathologies • Hyperinsulinemia and ingestion of high-glycemic-index foods are the two factors most frequently associated with acne • Xerosis, alopecia, caries, opaque and fragile hair, and nail fragility are frequent cutaneous manifestations of anorexia nervosa • Probiotics preserve skin metabolism, having a positive effect in atopic disease and psoriasis • Antioxidants with polyunsaturated fatty acids, zinc, taurine, and plant polyphenols restore a more balanced hair cycle, leading to decreased hair loss • b-Carotene and lycopene have been shown to prevent sunburn in humans • Vitamins, carotenoids, and fatty acid supplementation have been proven to optimize skin physiology and prevent some skin diseases • Oral fish polysaccharides associated with an antioxidant mix have been shown to improve dermal thickness, skin wrinkling, color, and viscoelasticity • Lycopene, vitamin C, and soy isoflavones has been shown to maintain skin density, improve skin firmness, and 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Piraccini M, Lorizzo M, Voudouris S The natural history of androgenetic alopecia J Cosmet Dermatol 2005;4:41–3 Tuerk MJ, Fazel N Zinc deficiency Curr Opin Gastroenterol 2009;25:136–43 Tyler I, Wiseman C, Crawford RI, Birmingham CL Cutaneous manifestations of eating disorders J Cutan Med Surg 2002;6:345–53 Wolters M Diet and psoriasis: experimental data and clinical evidence Br J Dermatol 2005;153:706–14 Wright S, Burton JL Oral evening primerose sedd oil improves atopic eczema Lancet 1982;2:1120–2 Xu Q, Parks CG, De Roo LA, Cawthon RM, Sandler DP, Chen H Multivitamin use and telomere length in women Am J Clin Nutr 2009;89:1–7 Yamakoshi J, Sano A, Tokutake S, Saito M, Kikuchi M, Kubota Y, et al Oral intake of proanthocyanidin-rich extract from grape seeds improves chloasma Phytother Res 2004;18:895–9 Yosipovitch G, DeVore A, Dawn A Obesity and the skin: skin physiology and skin manifestations of obesity J Am Acad Dermatol 2007;56:901–16 Zemel MB The role of dairy foods in weight management J Am Coll Nutr 2005;24:537S–46 Zemel MB, Sun X Dietary calcium and dairy products modulate oxidative and inflammatory stress in mice and humans J Nutr 2008;138:1047–52 Zouboulis CC The skin as an endocrine organ Dermatoendocrinol 2009;1:1–3 Zouboulis CC, Rabe T, Bayerl C Sinn und Unsinn der ästhetischen Endokrinologie Gynäkologische Endokrinologie 2009;7:25–32 Index A Acne and skin diet antiinflammatory and proinflammatory enzymes, 135 13-cis-retinoic acid (RA), 132 essential fatty acids, 134 insulin production, 138 lipophilic vitamin E, 133–134 milk and dairy products, 136 omega–3 fatty acids, 135, 140 positive correlation, 137–138 PPARg?agonists/dietary fatty acids, 139–140 principles and teachings, 132 recommendations, 137 sebaceous gland, 140 sebum analysis, 134, 139 sex hormone-binding globulin (SHBG), 138 vitamins A and D, 132–133, 137 glycemic load (GL) age-dependent association, 154 diet, 153 dietary deficiencies, 146 epidemiological observations, 150 glycemic and insulinemic responses, 151–152 glycemic index (GI), 146, 150, 153 hormonal control, 147 hypothesis, 147 insulin, 148–149 low-GL diets, 155 mechanism, insulin-resistant states, 148 metabolic syndrome, 146 therapies, 154–155 nutritional effects, dermatology, 210–211 selenium, 103 zinc, 96 Adipose tissue, 181 Adverse effects endocrine, 17–18 hair fiber stress, 182 keratinocyte skin cancers, 15 ocular and neurological complications, 17 Aging antiaging effects, 47 dermatology, clinical studies, 216 photoaging, 48–49 premature density and thickness measurement, 86 elasticity, 85 profile analyzer Primos, 85 surface, supplementation, 86 Alaluf, S., 66 a-linolenic acid, 168 Alzheimer’s disease (AD), 139, 140 American Academy of Dermatology (ADD), 132, 211 Androgens, 187–188 Anorexia nervosa (AN), 214–215 Anthonavage, M., 3, 177 Antioxidants free radicals cellular metabolism, 80 concentration, 80 interaction, 81 human body, 80 limitations, 44–45 polyphenols dermal blood flow, 83 flavonoids, 82 high and low flavanol cocoa, 84 minimum erythema dose (MED), 83 A Pappas (ed.), Nutrition and Skin: Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin, DOI 10.1007/978-1-4419-7967-4, © Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011 221 222 Antioxidants (Cont.) photoprotective effects and parameters, 83 structural parameters, 85 positive and negative effects, 81–82 premature aging, skin density and thickness measurement, 86 elasticity, 85 profile analyzer Primos, 85 surface, supplementation, 86 skin level, 45 ultraviolet A (UVA) and B (UVB) exposure, 43–44 vitamin C antiaging effects, 47 collagen synthesis, 47 metalloproteinase–1 (MMP–1), 48 minimal erythema dose (MED), 45 molecular structure, 46 photoaging, 48–49 topical application, 46 vitamin E and ferulic acid, 53–55 vitamin E with, 53 vitamin E free-radical quencher, 49 mean number, 52 molecular structure, 50 natural forms, 49 photoaging reversal, 53 synthetic forms, 49–50 topical d-a-tocopheryl succinate, 50–51 UV-induced damage, 50 vitamin C with, 53 1a?27-(OH)2D3, vitamin D antioxidative, 31 apoptosis regulation, 28–29 cytoprotective, 29–31 immunomodulatory, 27–28 proliferation and induction, 27 Apoptosis, 181 Arikawa, J., 163 Arthralgias, 18–19 Atopic dermatitis (AD) omega–6 EFA effect, 167–170 importance, 165–167 stratum corneum, abnormalities aberrations, structure and function, 161–165 impaired barrier, 159–161 Attenuated total reflection–Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy, 199 Index B Barrier, impaired emollient creams, 160–161 outside–inside hypothesis, 160 resolution, 160 serum immunoglobulin E (IgE), 159–160 Basal cell carcinoma (BCC), 72 Bioavailability, carotenoids absorption process, 62 dietary lipid, 63 food matrix and processing, 65 hepatic and extrahepatic tissues, 63 host health status, 66 interactions, 65–66 physicochemical properties, 64–65 provitamin A, 64 Bleck, O., 162 Boelsma, E., 216 Borage oil (BO), 167 Bowe, W.P., 139 Boyle, R.J., 2, 111, 117 Broche, T., 169 Brod, J., 162 Brown, W.R., 165 Bulimia nervosa (BN), 214–215 Burke, D.E., 51 Burke, K.E., 43 Burr, G.O., 165 Burr, M.M., 165 C Callaway, J., 168 Cancer basal cell carcinoma (BCC), 72 keratinocyte, 15 squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), 72 Carotenoids and skin analysis techniques, 67–68 bioavailability absorption process, 62 dietary lipid, 63 food matrix and processing, 65 hepatic and extrahepatic tissues, 63 host health status, 66 interactions, 65–66 physicochemical properties, 64–65 provitamin A, 64 biodistribution, 66–67 dietary classification, 61 photosynthetic complex, 62 sources, 61 Index structures, 60, 61 optical noninvasive method, 200–202 systemic photoprotection, 72–73 UV exposure basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), 72 damaging effects, 68–69 reactive oxygen species (ROS), 69–70 sunburn development reduction, 70–72 vitamin deficiency, 60 Cell differentiation, keratinocytes, 27 Ceramide apoptosis, 28, 29 atopic dermatitis, 161 Chromium and skin dietary recommendation, 104 functions, 104–105 impact, 105 Cocoa and green tea See Polyphenols Coloration, skin, 67, 101 Conti, A., 170 Copper and skin deficiency, 101 dietary recommendation, 100 functions, 100–101 impact, 101–102 Cutaneous vitamin D endocrine system See Vitamin D D Darvin, M.E., 79 Deficiency ceramide, 163 copper, 101 iron, 98–99 selenium, 103 silicon, 106 vitamin, 60 zinc, 94–95 Dermatology, clinical studies nutritional abnormalities anorexia nervosa (AN) and bulimia nervosa (BN), 214–215 malnutrition, 214 obesity, 215–216 nutritional effects acne, 210–211 atopic disease, 211–212 hair loss, 212 Lactobacillus paracasei, 213 photoprotection, 213–214 psoriasis, 212 223 skin aging and beauty, 216 Diet and acne essential nutrients antiinflammatory and proinflammatory enzymes, 135 13-cis-retinoic acid (RA), 132 essential fatty acids, 134 lipophilic vitamin E, 133–134 sebum analysis, 134 vitamins A and D, 132–133 omega–3 fatty acids, 135, 140 PPARg?agonists/dietary fatty acids, 139–140 principles and teachings, 132 sebaceous gland, 140 status and studies insulin production, 138 milk and dairy products, 136 positive correlation, 137–138 recommendations, 137 sebum tests, 139 sex hormone-binding globulin (SHBG), 138 vitamin D, 137 Dietary carotenoids classification, 61 photosynthetic complex, 62 sources, 61 structures, 60, 61 UV exposure basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), 72 damaging effects, 68–69 reactive oxygen species (ROS), 69–70 sunburn development reduction, 70–72 Di Nardo, A., 161, 162 Dotterud, C.K., 120, 121 Downing, D.T., 169 Duntley, S.Q., 196 E Eating disorders See Anorexia nervosa (AN); Bulimia nervosa (BN) Eczema chronic hand, 16 prevention allergic disease outcomes, 121 IgE-associated, 120, 121 meta-analysis, 119–120 prenatal/postnatal treatments, 121 strains, 122 synbiotics, 122 224 Eczema (Cont.) treatment SCORAD, 114–115 supplementation, randomized controlled trials, 115–117 Edwards, D.A., 196 Elewa, R.M., 1, Embryonic morphogenesis, Essential fatty acids (EFA) and atopic dermatitis See Atopic dermatitis (AD) F Fartasch, M., 162 Farwanah, H., 162 Fluorescence, skin optics, 197 Food allergies, 202–203 Foster, R.H., 168 Free radicals See also Antioxidants antioxidants interaction, 81 cellular metabolism, 80 concentration, 80 Fulmer, A.W., 162 G Galli, E., 166 Gehring, W., 169 Glorio, R., 214 Glycation, 204 Glycemic index (GI), 146, 150, 153 Glycemic load (GL) and acne clinical evidence age-dependent association, 154 diet, 153 low-GL diets, 155 therapies, 154–155 dietary deficiencies, 146 glycemic index (GI), 146 hypothesis, 147 metabolic syndrome, 146 pathophysiology hormonal control, 147 insulin, 148–149 mechanism, insulin-resistant states, 148 pubertal age and acne epidemiological observations, 150 glycemic and insulinemic responses, 151–152 glycemic index, 150, 153 Gupta, A.K., 31 Gupta, M.A., 214 Index H Hair loss iron, 99 zinc, 96 Hansen, A.E., 165 Hansson, L., 164 Hara, J., 163 Hata, T.R., 201 Healthy hair, 176 See also Human hair and nutrients Hediger, C., 214 Heinrich, U., 79, 85 Higuchi, R., 163 Hirao, T., 165 Holick, M.F., 35 Horrobin, D.F., 165 Human hair and nutrients adipose tissue, 181 age, sex, and ethnicity, 180 androgens, insulin resistance, and lipids, 187–188 apoptosis, 181 biology hair shaft and follicle, 178, 179 importance, 178 phases and subphases, 179–180 sebaceous gland, 180 circulation and perfusion, 182 color, 185 diagnostic tools, 191 disease and inflammation, 183–184 hair fiber stress, 182 healthy hair, 178 historical link, 184–185 hydrophilic vitamins, 190 lipophilic vitamins, 189–190 malnutrition, 191 pharmaceutical drugs and herbal extracts, 183 protein and amino acids, 185–186 stress, 181 trace elements, 188–189 Huurre, A., 120 Hydrophilic vitamins, 190 Hyperinsulinemia, 149, 150 I Immune function, probiotics, 112 Imokawa, G., 161, 163 Improvements, skin conditions See Eczema, probiotics Insulin-like growth factor-I (IGF-I), 136, 147 Insulin resistance, 149, 150 Index Intestinal microbiota, probiotics, 111–112 In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy, 169 Iron and skin deficiency, 98–99 dietary recommendation, 98 functions, 98 hair, 99 nails, 100 pruritus, 99 Ishibashi, M., 163 Ishikawa, J., 162 J Jalal, F., 66 Janssens, M., 163 Johansson, A., 168 Jungersted, J.M., 163 K Kallikrein, trypsin-like, 164 Kalliomaki, M., 122 Kameyama, K., 47 Kanehara, S., 169 Kezic, S., 163 Kikuchi, K., 160 Kitz, R., 168 Koch, C., 211 Kollias, N., 3, 195 Komatsu, N., 164 Kopp, M.V., 121, 122 Kragballe, K., 36, 160 Krahn-Bertil, E., 169 Kramer, G.J., 162 Kukkonen, K., 121 Kumahara, Y., 32 L Lademann, J., 2, 79 Lahtinen, S.J., 111 L-ascorbic acid See Vitamin C Liakou, A.I., 209 Linnamaa, P., 168 Lipids, 187–188 Lipophilic vitamins, 189–190 M Macheleidt, O., 161 MacLaughlin, J.A., 32 Manku, M.S., 165 Man, M.Q., 165 225 Mann, N.J., 145 Matsumoto, M., 161 McCollum, E.V., 184 Melnik, B., 161 Meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials (RCTs), 113 Metabolism free radicals, 80 vitamin A, 8–10 Metchnikoff, E., 112 Minerals and skin characteristic features, 106 chromium dietary recommendation, 104 functions, 104–105 skin impact, 105 classification, 91 copper deficiency, 101 dietary recommendation, 100 functions, 100–101 skin impact, 101–102 iron deficiency, 98–99 dietary recommendation, 98 functions, 98 hair, 99 nails, 100 pruritus, 99 selenium acne, 103 deficiencies, 103 dietary recommendation, 102 functions, 102–103 psoriasis, 103–104 topical application, 104 silicon deficiency, 106 dietary recommendation, 106 functions, 105 skin impact, 106 treatment, 91, 92 zinc acne, 96 deficiency, 94–95 dietary recommendation, 93 functions, 93–94 hair loss, 96 healing wound, 95–96 herpes simplex infections, 96 psoriasis, 96 skin appearance and, 95 topical application, 97–98 Montagna, 191 226 Moodycliffe, A.M., 59 Morimoto, S., 32 Mucosa, carotenoids bioavailability, 62 Muggli, R., 169 Myalgias, 18–19 N Natural retinoids, Nicollier, M., 162 O Ocular and neurological complications, vitamin A, 17 Okamoto, R., 163 Omega–6 EFA effect bioavailability, 168–169 CER EOS linoleate, 169–170 in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy, 169 oral intervention studies, 168 importance dihomo-g-linolenic (DGLA), 167 downstream metabolites, 165–166 g-linolenic acid (GLA), 166 oil-derived GLA, 166–167 Optical noninvasive method chromophore, 196 detection and monitoring antioxidant activity and photoprotection, 203–204 food allergies, 202–203 glycation, 204 direct detection carotenoids, 200–202 nutrient lipids, 202 lipophilic molecules, 196 macroscopic and microscopic imaging, 199–200 skin optics, 196–197 spectroscopic attenuated total reflection–Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR), 199 components, 198 diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS), 198 P Pappas, A., 1, 131 Park, W.J., 166 Paus, R., 179 Index Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR), 138, 139 Photoaging, 48–49, 53 Photoprotection carotenoids, 72–73 dermatology, clinical studies, 213–214 limitations, 44–45 optical noninvasive method, 203–204 skin level, 45 ultraviolet A (UVA) and B (UVB) exposure, 43–44 vitamin C antiaging effects, 47 collagen synthesis, 47 metalloproteinase–1 (MMP–1), 48 minimal erythema dose (MED), 45 molecular structure, 46 photoaging, 48–49 topical application, 46 vitamin E and ferulic acid, 53–55 vitamin E with, 53 vitamin E free-radical quencher, 49 mean number, 52 molecular structure, 50 natural forms, 49 photoaging reversal, 53 synthetic forms, 49–50 topical d-a-tocopheryl succinate, 50–51 UV-induced damage, 50 vitamin C with, 53 Pilgram, G.S., 164 Pinnell, S.R., 54 Placzek, M., 213 Platt, D., 169 Polyphenols dermal blood flow, 83 flavonoids, 82 high and low flavanol cocoa, 84 minimum erythema dose (MED), 83 photoprotective effects and parameters, 83 structural parameters, 85 PPARg?agonists, 139–140 Premature aging, antioxidants density and thickness measurement, 86 elasticity, 85 profile analyzer Primos, 85 surface, supplementation, 86 Prevention and therapy of skin diseases See Minerals and skin Probiotics benefits, 113–114 definition, 112–113 eczema Index prevention, 118–122 treatment, 114–118 health effects, 112 intestinal microbiota, 111–112 meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials (RCTs), 113 oral and topical skin applications, 123 strains, 113 Proteins and amino acids, 185–186 Psoriasis dermatology, 212 nail, 35 scalp, 34 selenium, 103–104 therapeutic uses, 12 vitamin A, 12 zinc, 96 Puch, F., 168 Purba, M., 216 R Raman spectrometry, 169 Rawlings, A.V., 2, 159, 169 Redoules, D., 164 Reichrath, J., 2, 23 Reproduction, retinoids, Retinoic acid (RA) See Natural retinoids Retinoids See Vitamin A Richelle, R., 2, 59 Roessler, A., 115 S Saaf, A.M., 163, 164, 166 Schaeffer, L., 166 Schafer, L., 162 Selenium and skin acne, 103 deficiencies, 103 dietary recommendation, 102 functions, 102–103 psoriasis, 103–104 topical application, 104 Senapati, S., 168 Sex hormone binding globulin (SHBG), 138, 147, 148 Sies, H., 65 Silicon and skin deficiency, 106 dietary recommendation, 106 functions, 105 impact, 106 Skin optics See Optical noninvasive method 227 Smith, R.N., 145, 211 Smith, T.M., 138, 140 Spectroscopy attenuated total reflection–Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR), 199 diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS), 198 in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy, 169 Spencer, E.H., 139 Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), 72 Stahl, W., 65, 70 Stamatas, G.N., 3, 95 Stenn, K.S., 179 Stratum corneum abnormalities, AD aberrations, structure and function atopic xerosis (AX), 164 ceramide deficiencies, 163 composition, 161 corneocyte envelopes (CEs), 165 filaggrin mutations, 163 hydrocarbon chain length deficiency, 162 long periodicity phase (LPP) and short periodicity phase (SPP), 162–163 Netherton syndrome (NS), 165 trypsin-like kallikreins, 164 impaired barrier emollient creams, 160–161 outside–inside hypothesis, 160 resolution, 160 serum immunoglobulin E (IgE), 159–160 Stress, human hair, 181, 182 Supplementation eczema, 115–117 premature aging, 86 Synthetic retinoids, T Tagami, H., 164 Tagami, R., 164 Tang, M.L.K., 111 Tarroux, R., 164 Teratogenicity, 19 Thakkar, S.K., 59 Theodorakis, M.J., 209 Trace elements, human hair, 188–189 Trémezaygues, L., 2, 23, 30, 31 U Unlu, N.Z., 65 228 V Van Gool, C.J., 168 Vasilopoulos, Y., 164 Vision See Ocular and neurological complications, vitamin A Vitamin A absorption, distribution, and metabolism, 8–10 adverse reactions and tolerability arthralgias and myalgias, 18–19 bone changes, 18 mucocutaneous complications, 16–17 ocular and neurological complications, 17 serum lipids, gastrointestinal, liver and endocrine adverse effects, 17–18 teratogenicity, 19 chronic hand eczema, 16 definition, 7–8 epidermal growth and differentiation, 11 immunomodulatory and antiinflammatory properties, 11 keratinization disorders, 12–13 natural, psoriasis and related disorders, 12 receptors and gene regulation, 10–11 sebaceous gland activity, 11 seborrhea, acne, and acneiform disorders, 13–15 skin cancer, 15–16 synthetic, Vitamin C antiaging effects, 47 collagen synthesis, 47 metalloproteinase–1 (MMP–1), 48 minimal erythema dose (MED), 45 molecular structure, 46 photoaging, 48–49 topical application, 46 vitamin E and ferulic acid, 53–55 vitamin E with, 53 Vitamin D 1a,27-(OH)2D3 biological effects antioxidative, 31 apoptosis regulation, 28–29 cytoprotective, 29–31 immunomodulatory, 27–28 proliferation and induction, 27 clinical studies, 31–34 synthesis, 24 Index treatment analogues combination, 36–37 face and flexures, 35 ichthyosis, 37 nail psoriasis, 35 psoriatic lesion, HIV patients, 35–36 scalp psoriasis, 34 scleroderma, 37 skin lesions, 35 vitiligo, 37–38 Vitamin E free-radical quencher, 49 mean number, 52 molecular structure, 50 natural forms, 49 photoaging reversal, 53 synthetic forms, 49–50 topical d-a-tocopheryl succinate, 50–51 UV-induced damage, 50 vitamin C with, 53 W Wertz, P.W., 169 Western diet See Diet and acne White, M.I., 164 Wickens, K., 122 Wiese, H.F., 165 Y Yamakoshi, K., 216 Yamamoto, A., 161 Yoshida, S., 202 Z Zielinski, J.E., 54 Zinc and skin acne, 96 deficiency, 94–95 dietary recommendation, 93 functions, 93–94 hair loss, 96 healing wound, 95–96 herpes simplex infections, 96 psoriasis, 96 skin appearance and, 95 topical application, 97–98 Zouboulis, C.C., 1, 3, 7, 209 .. .Nutrition and Skin wwwwwwwwwwwww Apostolos Pappas Editor Nutrition and Skin Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin Editor Apostolos Pappas The Johnson & Johnson Skin Research... Nutrition and Skin: Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin, DOI 10.1007/978-1-4419-7967-4_1, © Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011 A Pappas that are used as therapeutic agents for various... and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Auenweg 38, 06847 Dessau, Germany e-mail: christos.zouboulis@klinikum-dessau.de A Pappas (ed.), Nutrition and Skin: Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy