The rough guide to the italian lakes

THE ROUGH GUIDE to The Italian Lakes INCLUDES MILAN AND VERONA jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= INSIDE THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything you need to get started BASICS Pre-departure practical information THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to the Italian Lakes, with area highlights and full-colour maps throughout CONTEXTS Detailed history and Italian language sections, plus recommended books We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the guide with the ★ symbol The Italian Lakes chapters SWITZERLAND Lake Maggiore Lake Como Lugano Stresa Breno Lake Lecco Lecco Varese Lake Varese Lake Idro Lake Iseo Bergamo Brescia River Oglio ino Tic er Riv 20 kilometres Milan Lake Orta Lake Maggiore Lake Lugano Riv er Pavia Cremona Lake Como Bergamo Lake Iseo Brescia and Cremona jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com 11 Mantua River Po This fourth edition published May 2015 10 Verona da Ad Lake Garda Rive r Mincio Milan Riva del Garda Lake Ledro Clusone Como Lake Orta N Tirano Locarno Lake Garda G Verona H Mantua THE ROUGH GUIDE TO The Italian Lakes jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= This fourth edition written and researched by Lucy Ratcliffe and Matthew Teller with additional contributions by Kiki Deere and Helena Smith roughguides.com jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= INTRODUCTION Contents INTRODUCTION Where to go Things not to miss 10 When to go Itineraries 16 BASICS 18 Getting there 19 The media 37 Getting around 23 Festivals and events 38 Accommodation 30 Sports and outdoor pursuits 40 Eating and drinking 32 Travel essentials 41 THE GUIDE 50 Milan 50 Lake Iseo 244 Lake Orta 102 Brescia and Cremona 256 Lake Maggiore 112 Lake Garda 272 Lake Lugano 162 10 Verona 314 Lake Como 184 11 Mantua 338 Bergamo 226 CONTEXTS 352 History 353 Books 362 Italian SMALL PRINT & INDEX jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= OPPOSITE FRESCOES IN THE BASILICA DI SAN GIULIO, LAKE ORTA PREVIOUS PAGE TORBOLE, LAKE GARDA 364 372 INTRODUCTION Introduction to The Italian Lakes The Italian Lakes are a little slice of paradise Generations of travellers from the north, descending wearily from the chilly Alpine passes, have come into this Mediterranean vision of figs and palms, bougainvillea and lemon blossom, and been lost for words Elegant ribbons of blue water stretch out ahead, folded into the sun-baked foothills; after the rigours of the high Alps, the abundance of fine food and wine must have been a revelation Warming, awe-inspiring and graced with natural beauty, the lakes are still a place to draw breath and wonder These days, of course, mass tourism has found the lakes, and the shoreside roads that link every town can be as packed as the ferries that chug to and fro But the chief reason to visit the area – its spectacular landscapes – remains compelling, and there are plenty of ways to avoid the crowds The lakes – deep, slender fjords gouged by glaciers – are sublime All are oriented north–south, ringed by characterful old villages often wedged onto narrow beaches between rugged cliffs and the water And those classic lakes images of flower-bedecked balconies, Baroque gardens and splendid waterside villas can be found here in abundance Dotted around and between the lakes are some of Italy’s finest art cities Milan is pre-eminent, while Verona, Bergamo, Mantua and others display – in their architecture as well as their art – a civilized, urban vision that stands in marked contrast to the wild, largely rural character of the lakeside hinterlands Italy only became a unified state in 1861 and, as a result, people often feel more loyalty to their home town than to the jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= nation as a whole – a feeling manifest in the multitude of cuisines, dialects and outlooks that span the region Geography, of course, doesn’t adhere to political boundaries: the lakes are intimately connected in culture and landscape with the southernmost, Italian-speaking extremities of Switzerland Lakes Maggiore and Lugano have shorelines in two countries This book provides full coverage of attractions and travel practicalities on both sides of the border ABOVE SWEET FRUIT PICKLES, CREMONA 100 200 500 1000 R Vigevano ino 1500 Novara A4 Lake Varese MilanMalpensa LuganoAgno A8 Varese Porto Ceresio Ti c 2000 A2 Arona Laveno Luino R ive r 3000 Metres Lake Orta Stresa Orta San Giulio e or Maggi L a ke Verbania Cannobio e ak La k e A2 Pavia Certosa di Pavia Como Milan Menaggio Gravedona Tremezzo Bellinzona Lugano Lugano L N2 SWITZERLAND A9 o Varenna o Bellagio Co m Locarno River Po Milan-Linate A4 Lodi Lake Garlate Lecco Cólico Sondrio Riv er Ad Crema Caravaggio Piacenza BergamoOrio al Serio Bergamo San Pellegrino Treviglio Chiavenna ive o Cremona Iseo Piacenza g li Monte Isola rO Sarnico Lovere Clusone St Moritz Lake Iseo Ascona Brescia Breno Tirano BresciaMontichiari A4 Desenzano del Garda Limone sul Garda Lake Ledro VeronaVillafranca Sirmione Peschiera del Garda Mantua Ad ige Ri v Torbole Riva del Garda kilometres Malcesine Torri del Benaco Garda Bardolino Gargnano Gardone Riviera Idro Salo Lake Idro Bagolino Capo di Ponte Edolo La k e Ga rda Gravellona Turin jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= A7 A22 Riv e r River M i n cio ecc N Modena A dige 20 Verona er L Lake A2 Passo del Brennero Venice R da A1 o rP ive A21 INTRODUCTION Where to go Stylish, sophisticated Milan needs little introduction – the undisputed “capital” of the north, and richest city of Italy’s richest region, Lombardy Its pilgrimage status is fourfold Art – pay homage to Leonardo da Vinci’s iconic Last Supper Architecture – explore the spectacular Duomo inside and out Music – sample opera at the worldfamous La Scala Shopping – this is one of the world’s fashion capitals The opulent Certosa di Pavia monastery, set amid the rice fields south of Milan, stands as a monument to the city’s Renaissance rulers The lakes are ranged in formation north of Milan, interleaved between the Prealpine foothills The westernmost is Lake Orta, a pretty little wedge of blue water that holds one of the loveliest of all the region’s medieval villages, Orta San Giulio The longest of the lakes – Lake Maggiore – lies draped between high ridges of green mountainside The resorts of Stresa and Pallanza face idyllic Isola Bella, crowned with palaces and Baroque gardens North lies atmospheric Cannobio, while, across the border, the Swiss neighbours of Locarno and Ascona offer a ritzy allure Varese is the region’s most underrated city Penetrate its industrial suburbs and you find a core of cobbled piazzas and stylish boutiques, made unmissable by the superb gallery THE LAKES IN LATIN of contemporary art at Villa Panza On maps and in tourist brochures, Nearby Lake Lugano lies mostly in you’ll notice that the lakes are Switzerland Wilder than its neighbours, with often referred to by their old Latin long stretches of forested shoreline that plunge names These titles – which are also much used by writers and directly into the water, it offers a sense of poets – evoke a sense of pride in seclusion lacking elsewhere Cosmopolitan local culture and history, forming a Lugano basks on a sunny, south-facing bay, linguistic link between the present and the distant past For this cogwheel trains climb the nearby peak of Monte reason, politicians also love them: Generoso (1701m), while further north rise the when the Province of Novara was fortifications of Bellinzona reorganized in the 1990s, the new Forked Lake Como is one of the best-known province that resulted, covering territory around lakes Maggiore holiday destinations in Italy, offering, in and Orta, was named “Verbanowaterfront villages such as Bellagio and Varenna, Cusio-Ossola”, deliberately playing the classic images of the lakes Como itself is a on the Latin appellations dignified old silk town with a magnificent For all practical purposes, though, these names are a cathedral, while behind Menaggio and Tremezzo curiosity: they are rarely used coil scenic mountain footpaths without their modern equivalents The hill-town of Bergamo rises from the plain jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= – and never on road signs Lake Orta “Cusio” northeast of Milan Its Gothic-medieval upper Lake Maggiore “Verbano” town, characterized by cobbled alleys winding Lake Lugano “Ceresio” between high-fronted palazzi, is a foodie’s delight, Lake Como “Lario” packed with fine restaurants, while the Accademia Lake Iseo “Sebino” Lake Idro “Eridio” Carrara is Lombardy’s most prestigious gallery Lake Garda “Benaco” outside Milan CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CAFÉ LIFE, MALCESINE; LAKESIDE SIRMIONE; TORRI DEL BENACO ALIMENTARI jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= INTRODUCTION A little east, the squiggle of Lake Iseo attracts far fewer visitors and hosts country walks and, on its hilly fringes, prehistoric rock carvings and the prestigious Franciacorta vineyards Nearby stands Brescia, a hard-working, business-minded city that boasts fine Roman ruins and, a short way south, the old violin-making town of Cremona Marking the eastern limit of Lombardy is Italy’s largest and most famous lake: Lake Garda The southern shores are flat or gently rolling; highlights here include busy Sirmione, on its long peninsula To the east, a string of old Venetian ports includes gentle Garda and little-visited Torri del Benaco Garda’s western shore has more classic lake imagery – exotic flower gardens, palm-shaded promenades and fine Art Nouveau villas crowding the waterfront around Salò and Gardone Riviera In the north, Lake Garda’s shores are hemmed in by sheer, parallel mountains: the dramatic scenery here takes your breath away Gargnano village – beloved of D.H Lawrence – is a highlight on the trip north past Limone to the splendid, once-Austrian resort of Riva del Garda at the head of the lake As well as a sense of history, Riva, and its neighbour, Torbole, have watersports aplenty, and there are good walks on the crest of Monte Baldo nearby, above Malcesine Then there’s Verona, a laidback, romantically minded city a stone’s throw from Lake Garda with, at its core, the glorious Roman Arena, scene of a famous summer opera festival Roaming Verona’s alleys, dipping into the local taverns and restaurants, is a rare pleasure Just to the south, the dignified old town of Mantua (Mantova in Italian) makes a compelling side-trip, with spectacular Renaissance frescoes and lotus-fringed lakes When to go The best months to visit are June and, especially, September At these times, visitor numbers are below their peak, but the weather is lovely: sunshine pouring from blue skies, temperatures that are toasty but not scorching, and magically clear, cool evenings The hottest months, July and August, are when the lakes are at their most crowded: weekends in particular can see roads jam-packed with traffic The cities, especially Milan, can be sweltering, with temperatures topping 35°C for days on end Spectacular – but short-lived – thunderstorms are common in late August Italians take the first two or three weeks of August as their annual holiday; this means the urban centres – Milan, Verona, Bergamo – can feel somewhat artificial, as the only people around are foreign tourists Many restaurants, bars and shops close altogether In this, the Swiss are more flexible: head across to Lugano or Locarno in August and you’ll jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= find that life continues more or less as normal The season on the lakes runs from Easter to October Outside these months you’ll find that tourism shuts down: many hotels and restaurants close for the winter, ferry services are reduced or halted and attractions open for shorter hours, if at all Skies are often grey, with chill winds sweeping down from the peaks Nonetheless, the lakes retain their romance – morning mist hangs on the waters, snow carpets the lakeside ridges With prices low and few tourists around, winter can be a great time to visit 370 CONTEXTS ITALIAN Ripieno Spiedino Stuffed Skewer or kebab Stracotto Surgelato Braised, stewed Frozen SWEETS DOLCI, FRUIT FRUTTA, CHEESE FORMAGGIO AND NUTS NOCI Amaretti Ananas Anguria Arancia Cachi Ciliege Cocomero Crostata Dolcelatte Fichi Fragole Gelato Grana Padano Gorgonzola Macedonia Mandorle Macaroons Pineapple Watermelon Orange Persimmons Cherries Watermelon Jam tart Creamy blue cheese Figs Strawberries Ice cream Local version of Parmesan cheese Soft, strong, blue-veined cheese Fruit salad Almonds Mascarpone Mela Parmigiano Pecorino Pescha Pinoli Provola/Provolone Ricotta Taleggio Tiramisù Torta Uva Zabaglione Zuppa inglese Smooth, rich, soft cheese Apple Parmesan Strong, hard sheep’s cheese Peach Pine nuts Mild cheese made from buffalo or sheep milk, sometimes smoked Soft, white cheese Creamy, soft cheese Trifle-like dessert Cake, tart Grapes Dessert with eggs, sugar and marsala wine Trifle DRINKS Acqua minerale gassata naturale Acqua tonica Bicchiere Birra Bottiglia Caffè Caraffa Cioccolata calda Dolce Ghiaccio Granita Latte Mineral water sparkling still Tonic water Glass Beer Bottle Coffee Carafe Hot chocolate Sweet Ice Iced drink, with coffee or fruit Milk Litro Mezzo Quarto Salute! Secco Spremuta Spumante Succo Tè Vino Bianco Rosato Rosso Litre Half Quarter Cheers! Dry Fresh fruit juice Sparkling wine Concentrated fruit juice with sugar Tea Wine White Rosé Red Glossaries USEFUL ITALIAN WORDS comune an administrative area; also the local council alimentari grocery shop jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= or town hall anfiteatro amphitheatre corso avenue or boulevard autostazione bus station duomo/cattedrale cathedral autostrada motorway entrata entrance biblioteca library festa festival, holiday cappella chapel fiume river castello castle lago lake centro centre largo a kind of square centro storico historic centre/old town lungolago lakefront road or promenade chiesa church ITALIAN CONTEXTS mercato market municipio town hall paese country, village palazzo palace, mansion or block of flats parco park passeggiata the customary early-evening walk piazza square pinacoteca picture gallery ponte bridge santuario sanctuary sottopassaggio subway spiaggia beach stazione station strada road teatro theatre tempio temple torre tower traghetto ferry uscita exit via road ARTISTIC AND ARCHITECTURAL TERMS characterized by pointed arches, ribbed vaulting and ambo A raised pulpit, popular in Italian medieval flying buttresses churches Liberty Italian version of Art Nouveau apse A vaulted semicircular or polygonal termination loggia Roofed gallery or balcony of a church, usually eastern Mannerism Sixteenth-century style characterized by architrave Lintel or the lowest part of the entablature stylization of Renaissance rules, theatrical motifs and atrium Inner courtyard technical skill Baroque Exuberant architectural style of the nave Central space in a church, usually flanked by seventeenth century, characterized by ornate aisles decoration, complex spatial arrangements and grand Neoclassicism A rigorous architecture of pure vistas Also applies to the period’s sumptuous style of geometrical forms based on Classical rules, prevalent painting and sculpture in the late eighteenth century basilica Originally a Roman administrative building, piano nobile Main floor of a palace, usually the first adapted for early churches; distinguished by lack of level above ground transepts polyptych Painting on several joined wooden belvedere A terrace or lookout point panels campanile Bell tower, sometimes detached, usually portico Covered entrance to a building, or porch of a church presepio A Christmas crib capital Top of a column putti Cherubs cella Sanctuary of a temple reliquary Receptacle for a saint’s relics, usually bones chancel Part of a church containing the altar Often highly decorated chiaroscuro The balance of light and shade in a Renaissance Fifteenth- and sixteenth-century painting, and the skill of the artist in depicting the Italian-originated movement in art and architecture, contrast between the two inspired by the rediscovery of Classical ideals cornice The top section of a Classical facade Romanesque Solid architectural style of the late tenth cortile Galleried courtyard or cloister to mid-thirteenth centuries, characterized by roundcrypt Burial place in a church, usually under the choir headed arches and a penchant for horizontality and decumanus maximus The main street of a Roman geometric precision town The second cross-street was known as the sgraffito Decorative technique whereby one layer of cardo maximus plaster is scratched to reveal a darker-coloured layer entablature The section above the capital on a beneath Classical building, below the cornice stucco Plaster made from water, lime, sand and ex-voto Painting or object presented in thanksgiving powdered marble, used for decorative work to a saint jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= thermae Baths, usually elaborate buildings in Roman fresco Wall-painting technique in which the artist villas applies paint to wet plaster for a more permanent triptych Painting on three joined wooden panels finish trompe l’oeil Work of art that deceives the viewer by Gothic Architectural style of the thirteenth and means of tricks with perspective fourteenth centuries, with an emphasis on verticality, 371 Small print and index 373 Small print 374 About the authors 376 Index 382 Map symbols A ROUGH GUIDE TO ROUGH GUIDES Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide – to Greece – was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been travelling in Greece the previous summer and couldn’t find the right guidebook With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a highly contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travellers’ needs The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= destinations And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader readership that relished the guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-for-money ethos These days, Rough Guides include recommendations from budget to luxury and cover more than 120 destinations around the globe, as well as producing an ever-growing range of ebooks Visit roughguides.com to find all our latest books, read articles, get inspired and share travel tips with the Rough Guides community SMALL PRINT Rough Guide credits Editor: Lucy Cowie Layout: Anita Singh Cartography: Rajesh Chhibber Picture editor: Roger Mapp Proofreader: Norm Longley Managing editors: Natasha Foges, Alice Park Senior editor: Rachel Mills Assistant editor: Payal Sharotri Production: Janis Griffith Cover design: Nicole Newman, Emily Taylor, Anita Singh Photographer: Helena Smith Editorial assistant: Rebecca Hallett Senior pre-press designer: Dan May Programme manager: Gareth Lowe Publisher: Joanna Kirby Publishing director: Georgina Dee Publishing information This fourth edition published May 2015 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 11, Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India Distributed by Penguin Random House Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA) 345 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand Penguin Group (South Africa) Block D, Rosebank Office Park, 181 Jan Smuts Avenue, Parktown North, Gauteng, South Africa 2193 Rough Guides is represented in Canada by Tourmaline Editions Inc 662 King Street West, Suite 304, Toronto, Ontario M5V 1M7 Printed in Singapore © Lucy Ratcliffe and Matthew Teller, 2015 Maps © Rough Guides No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews 384pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN: 978-1-40937-143-4 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in The Rough Guide to Italian Lakes, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide 135798642 Help us update We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the fourth edition of The Rough Guide to Italian Lakes is accurate and up-to-date However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better Please send your comments with the subject line “Rough Guide Italian Lakes Update” to E mail @uk.roughguides.com We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails Find more travel information, connect with fellow travellers and plan your trip on W roughguides.com jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= 373 374 SMALL PRINT ABOUT THE AUTHORS Lucy Ratcliffe is a freelance travel writer and editor She has been visiting and writing about the Lakes region of Northern Italy for over fifteen years and is the author of several guides to the area She now shares her time between Bergamo and Barcelona, where she lives with her family Matthew Teller (W matthewteller.com) is a freelance journalist and travel writer based in the UK He has written for Rough Guides for more than fifteen years, contributing to many titles as author, updater or editor He blogs at W quitealone.com and tweets @matthewteller Acknowledgements Matthew Teller would like to thank Alessandra Smith and Adriana Vacca at the Italian State Tourist Board in London; Monica Neroni at Provincia di Como; Silvia Lorenzini at Distretto dei Laghi in Verbania; Sara Roloff at Switzerland Tourism in London; Jasmin Haslimeier at Ticino Turismo in Bellinzona; and particularly Rosanna Melaragni, Rachel Roots and Stephanie Elkington at Sunvil Special thanks to Sarah and Luca in Stresa; to my brilliant co-updaters this time, Helena and Kiki; to Lucy in Barcelona for all the fun times on past editions; and to our super-efficient, sharpeyed editor Lucy Cowie, who leaves this book better than when she found it Kiki Deere would like to thank Anna for her wonderful company and help at Lake Iseo; Andrea for joining in the fun; Milena for helping out with transport details and other queries; Massimo for his warm hospitality at Casa Visnenza and plethora of tips on the area; Enrica Puppi and Alessandra Pitocchi from Turismo Bergamo for all their support and assistance; Francesco Tanasini for the fun and company and for tucking into feast after feast in the span of twelve hours; Laura Benzoni for her knowledge of the Basilica of Clusone; Alessandra from Promoserio for coordinating my schedule and for such a terrific lunch; Elena Marchese for all her top Milan suggestions without whose help the Milan chapter wouldn’t be as it is; a huge thanks goes to Francesca Potente from Assolombarda for coordinating my stay in Milan; and last but not least Budgie for all his support over the years and for putting up with a partner who is never around Readers’ updates Thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write in with comments and suggestions (and apologies if we’ve inadvertently omitted or misspelt anyone’s name): Catherine Fulvio, Camilla Haw, David and Rhian Liddell, Elena Ponzini, Lynn Priebe, Gianfranco Scanferato, Martin Sury, Ian Tipping, Steve Vickers Photo credits All photos © Rough Guides except the following: (Key: t-top; c-centre; b-bottom; l-left; r-right) p.1 Corbis: Katja Kreder p.18 Alamy: Stefano Politi Markovina (t) p.2 AWL Images: Travel Pix p.51 Alamy: John Stark p.4 Robert Harding Picture Library: CuboImages (t) p.53 Alamy: David Pearson p.7 SuperStock: F1 Online (t); Alamy: Ingolf Pompe 72 (bl); p.57 Alamy: Stefano Politi Markovina Travel Library Limited (br) p.69 Getty Images: Andrea Pistolesi (t); Corbis: Alfredo p.9 Corbis: Massimo Ripani (t); AWL Images: Walter Bibikow Dagli Orti (br) (b) p.89 Getty Images: Marco Secchi (tl); CuboImages srl (tr); p.10 Corbis: Giovanni Simeone Alamy: Carlo Brambilla (bl); SuperStock: (br) jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= p.11 Alamy: Ian G Dagnall (t); SuperStock: View Picture Ltd p.105 SuperStock: Walter Zerla (t) (c); Corbis: Johanna Huber / SIME (b) p.113 Corbis: Walter Bibikow p.12 Alamy: Prisma Bildagentur AG (t); SuperStock: F1 p.115 Alamy: Brenda Kean (t) Online (b) p.123 SuperStock: Guenter Fischer (t); Corbis: GAETAN p.13 SuperStock: Cubo Images (tl); Alamy: Prisma BALLY/Keystone (bl); Tommaso di Girolamo (br) Bildagentur AG (tr); Getty Images: Gallo Images/Danita p.153 Alamy: Giovanni Tagini (t); Robert Harding Picture Delimont (c); Marka (b) Library: Eugenio Manghi (b) p.14 Getty Images: Macduff Everton (t); Alamy: bildbroker p.163 Alamy: Prisma Bildagentur AG de (b) p.165 Alamy: LOOK (t) p.15 Corbis: The Gallery Collection (t); Getty Images: Slow p.181 AWL Images: Michele Falzone images (c); Alamy: Alessandro Villa/MARKA (b) p.185 Corbis: Jean-Pierre Lescourret SMALL PRINT p.205 Corbis: Ocean (tl); Gillian Price (tr); Alamy: CuboImages srl (b) p.226 AWL Images: Peter Adams p.229 SuperStock: Marco Mazzoleni (t) p.237 Alamy: David Burton (t) pp.244–245 Robert Harding Picture Library: Eddy Buttarelli p.247 Alamy: MARKA pp.256–257 Alamy: David Keith Jones p.259 Corbis: Laurent Giraudou pp.272–273 Alamy: Travel Pictures p.275 Alamy: Nick Kirk p.289 AWL Images: Katja Kreder p.303 INSADCO Photography (t); Alamy: John Norman (bl); David Tomlinson (br) pp.314–315 SuperStock: Massimo Pizzotti p.317 Alamy: D A Barnes (t) p.327 Getty Images: EyesWideOpen (t) pp.338–339 Corbis: Franz-Marc Frei p.341 Getty Images: Danita Delimont p.352 Getty Images: DEA/G SOSIO/De Agostini (t) Front cover and spine Torri del Benaco harbour, Lake Garda © Travel Pictures Back cover View towards the Lago di Varese © 4Corners: Davide Carlo Cenadelli/SIME (t); Gabbani shop, Lugano © Alamy: SFM SpazioFotoMereghetti (bl); Varenna, Lake Como © AWL Images: Francesco Iacobelli (br) jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= 375 376 INDEX Index Maps are marked in grey A Abbazia di Piona 220 accommodation 30–32 activities itinerary 16 Affi 286 Agno .178 agriturismo 31 airlines 22 airports 20 Bellagio 211–216 Bellagio 211 Bellano 220 Bellinzona 180–183 Benaco see Lake Garda Bene Lario 210 BERGAMO 227 Bergamo 232 Bergamo and around 230 Bergamo, Città Alta 235 Accademia Carrara 238 accommodation .240 airport 239 arrival 239 B&Bs 240 bed and breakfast 240 Bergamo Alta 228 Bergamo Bassa 236 bus station 239 Campanone .232 Cappella Colleoni 233 Castello 234 Città Alta .228 Città Bassa 236 Cittadella .234 Colle Aperto .234 Donizetti 234 Duomo 232 Alessi Shop 111 eating & drinking .240 Alprose chocolate factory 178 funicular 239 Galleria d’Arte Moderna 238 Angera 152 GAMEC 238 apartments 31 hostels 240 aperitivo 35 hotels 240 Aquadventure park 125 information 239 AquaParadise 285 Lower Town 236 Arco 307 Museo della Cattedrale 233 Arcumeggia 150 Museo Diocesano Bernareggi .238 Argegno 200 Museo Donizettiano .234 Museo Storico 236 Arona .151 Orio al Serio airport 239 Ascona 140–142 Palazzo della Ragione 231 Asso 217 Piazza del Duomo 232 autostradas 25 Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe 231 Piazza Vecchia 231 Porta Nuova .236 public transport 239 restaurants 241 Rocca 236 B&B 31 San Francesco 234 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= babies 48 San Vigilio 234 Bagolino 297 Sant’Agostino 236 Santa Maria Maggiore 233 banks 45 Sentierone 236 Bardolino 285 Torre Civica 232 Barghe 297 Torre Gombito 231 bars 35 tourist office .239 Baveno 125 tours 239 bed and breakfast 31 train station 239 beer 36 Treno Blu .239 Belgirate 124 Upper Town 228 Agno .178 Bergamo 239 Brescia 264 Catullo 331 Gabriele D’Annunzio .264 Linate 81 Lugano 170 Malpensa 81 Milan-Bergamo 239 Milan-Linate 81 Milan-Malpensa 81 Montichiari 264 Orio al Serio .239 Valerio Catullo 331 Verona-Brescia 264 Verona-Villafranca 331 Villafranca 331 B Via Gombito .231 Via Pignolo 238 walking tours 239 Berlusconi, Silvio 361 Bernina Express 209 bibliography 362 bikes see cycling Bisuschio .160 books .362 Borromeo castle .152 Borromeo islands 126 breakdowns 26 Breglia 210 Brenzone .311 BRESCIA 258 Brescia 260 accommodation .266 airport 264 arrival 264 art gallery 264 Broletto 261 bus station 265 Castello 263 Coro delle Monache .263 Croce di Desiderio 263 Duomo Nuovo 261 Duomo Vecchio 261 eating & drinking .266 Gabriele D’Annunzio airport 264 hotels 266 information 266 metro 265 Mille Miglia 261 Montichiari airport 264 Museo del Risorgimento .264 Museo della Città .262 Museo delle Armi 264 Nuns’ Choir 263 Piazza del Foro 262 Piazza della Loggia 260 Piazza della Vittoria 261 Piazza Paolo VI 261 Pinacoteca Tosio Martinengo 264 public transport 265 Raphael 264 restaurants 266 Roman temple 262 Rotonda .261 San Salvatore .263 Santa Giulia museum .262 Santa Maria in Solario 263 Tempio Capitolino 262 tourist office .266 train station 264 Via dei Musei .262 Winged Victory 262 Brescia airport 264 Brienno 200 Brissago 139 Brunate 195 INDEX Brusino Arsizio 178 buses from the UK 21 in Italy 27 in Switzerland 29 business hours 45 C Como 189–198 Como 190 Como, central 192 Corrubbio .335 costs 41 credit cards 45 Cremona 267–271 Cremona 268 Crero .312 crime 42 Crusinallo 111 currency 45 Cusio see Lake Orta cycling in Italy 28 cycling in Switzerland 30 Cadenabbia 203 calcio 40 calendar of events 38 Camera degli Sposi 346 camper vans 26 camping 31 Campione d’Italia 175 Campione del Garda 300 Campo dei Fiori 160 Canevaworld .285 D’Annunzio, Gabriele .295 Cannero Riviera 134 debit cards 45 Cannobio 136–139 Desenzano del Garda Cannobio 137 279–281 Cantine di Gandria 174 Desenzano del Garda 280 Capo di Ponte .253 disabled travellers 48 Capolago 176 DOC wine 37 car rental 26 DOCG wine 37 Carate Urio 200 Domodossola 147 Cardada 144 Dongo 218 Casalzuigno 150 dress codes 46 Caslano 178 drinking 35 Castelli di Malpaga 135 driving Castello di Vezio 222 from the UK 21 Castiglione Olona 160 in Italy 23 in Switzerland 29 Catullo airport 331 Cellina 154 Duomo, Milan 56–63 Cenacolo Vinciano 79 Centomiglia 298 Centovalli 147 Ceresio see Lake Lugano Cernobbio 199 eating and drinking 32–37 Certosa di Pavia 99–101 EHIC card 43 changing money 45 electricity 42 Channel Tunnel 22 embassies, Italian 43 cheese 34 embassies, Swiss 43 Chiasso 179 emergency numbers 43 Chiavenna 209 End of the War Museum children 48 218 chocolate factory .178 ENIT 47 city breaks 22 Erbusco 254 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= climate Eridio see Lake Idro Clusone 242 events calendar 38 coaches from the UK 21 exchange 45 coffee 36 Colico .219 Collezione Calderara 111 Colmegna .149 Colonno 200 family travel 48 Colosso di San Carlo Borromeo 152 ferries 28 D E F festivals 38 fish 34 Fiumelatte 223 flats 31 flights 19 Fondotoce 129 food and drink 32–37, 367–370 food terms 367 foodie highlights 16 football 40 Forte di Fuentes 219 Four Lakes Drive 296 Foxtown 179 Franciacorta 254 fuel 24 G Gabriele D’Annunzio airport 264 Gambarogno .148 Gandria 173 Garda .286 Gardaland 285 garden design 215 gardens tour 17 Gardone Riviera 293 Gargnano 298–300 Gargnano 298 gay and lesbian travellers 91 getting around 23 Ghiffa .134 Ghirla 160 Giardino Botanico André Heller 293 glossary 370 Golfo Borromeo 117 Gorgonzola 34 Grana Padana 34 Grandola ed Uniti 210 grappa 36 Gravedona 219 Gravellona Toce 129 Greenway del Lago 204 Griante 203 H health 43 Heller garden 293 Hermann Hesse museum .176 HI (Hostelling International) 31 high season hiring a car 26 history of Italy 353–361 holidays 46 377 378 INDEX hospitals 43 hostels 31 hotels 30 I ice cream 33 Idro 296 IGT wine 37 Il Vittoriale 294–296 Indemini 148 insurance 44 Intra 132 Intragna .147 Iseo 251 Isola Bella 126 Isola Comacina 200 Isola dei Pescatori 128 Isola del Garda 281 Isola Madre 128 Isola San Giulio 106 Isola Superiore 128 Isole Borromee 126 Isole di Brissago 139 Ispra 154 Italian Lakes Italian language 364 Itineraries 16 J Juliet’s House, Verona 324 L Lario .see Lake Como Last Supper, The 79 Latin nomenclature .6 Laveno 150 Lazise .285 Lecco 224 lemons 301 Lenno .202 Lezzeno 201 limoncello 36 Limone sul Garda 301 Linate airport 81 Locarno 142–147 Locarno 143 Loppia 216 Lovere 248 low season Lugano 166–173 Lugano 169 Luino 149 M Maccagno 148 Maderno .297 Madonna di Ghisallo 217 mail 44 Malcantone 178 Malcesine 309-312 Malcesine 310 Malesco 136 Malpensa airport 81 Mandello del Lario 224 Manerba 281 Mani Pulite 360 Mantova see Mantua MANTUA 339 Mantua 342 accommodation .350 Laglio .200 arrival 349 Lago di Piano 210 bikes 349 Lago Maggiore Express 119 boats .349 Lake Como 184–225 Broletto 343 Lake Como 188 bus station 349 Lake Como, Central 203 Camera degli Sposi 346 Camera dei Giganti 348 Lake Garda 272–313 Casa del Mantegna 347 Lake Garda 276 cruises 349 Lake Idro .296 cycling 349 Lake Iseo 244–255 Duomo 344 Lake Iseo 248 eating & drinking .350 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= Lake Ledro 308 Gonzaga 343 Lake Lugano 162–183 hotels 350 information 350 Lake Lugano 167 Jews of Mantua .344 Lake Maggiore 112–161 lakes 349 Lake Maggiore 116 Mincio, River 349 Lake Mergozzo 129 Palazzo d’Arco 347 Lake Orta 103–102 Palazzo Ducale 344 Lake Orta 106 Palazzo Te 348 language 364–371 Piazza Erbe 343 Lanzo d’Intelvi 175 Piazza Mantegna 340 Piazza Sordello 344 public transport 349 restaurants 350 Rotonda di San Lorenzo 343 Sant’Andrea 340 Teatro Bibiena 344 Tempio di San Sebastiano 347 Torre della Gabbia 343 tourist office .350 train station 349 maps 44 mascarpone 34 Masolino .161 media 37 Melide 177 Menaggio 207–210 Menaggio 207 Mendrisio .179 menu reader 367–370 menus 33 Mergozzo 129 Mezzegra 203 Miasino 107 MILAN 51 Milan 58 Milan and around 54 Milan, central 63 Milan metro 82 Milan, Porta Ticinese 74 AC Milan 95 accommodation 84 airports 81 Ambrose, Saint 80 Ambrosiana, Pinacoteca 62 apartments 85 aperitivo 88 Aquario Civico 66 Arco della Pace 66 Arena Civica 66 Armani 93 arrival 81 B&B 85 bars 88 Biblioteca Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 62 bikes 83 boutiques 92 Brera 67 Broletto 64 buses 82 Ca’ Grande 73 cafés 86 campsites 85 canals 76 car hire 83 Castello Sforzesco 64 Cenacolo Vinciano 79 Central station 81 cinema 91 classical music 91 clubs 90 Colonne di San Lorenzo 74 consulates 95 Corso Como 70 Corso Porta Ticinese 73 cruises 83 INDEX cycling 83 Parco Sempione 66 Darsena 76 parking 83 delis 94 pharmacies 95 Piazza dei Mercanti 64 design 94 Piazza del Duomo 56 designer fashion 92 Piazza della Vetra 75 doctors 95 picnic supplies 85 Dolce & Gabbana 93 Pinacoteca Ambrosiana 62 driving 83 Pinacoteca di Brera 67 Duomo 56 police 95 eating and drinking 86 pools 95 factory outlets 93 Porta Genova 78 fashion 92 Porta Ticinese 73 Fiera dell’Antiquariato 76 post office 95 film 91 Prada 93 Fiori sul Naviglio 76 public transport 82 flight arrivals 81 Quadrilatero d’Oro 71 food and drink 86 railway station 81 food shopping 94 renting a bike 83 football 95 renting an apartment 85 furniture 94 restaurants 86 Galleria d’Arte Moderna 72 Rotonda della Besana 73 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 60 San Lorenzo Maggiore 74 gay and lesbian Milan 91 San Nazaro Maggiore 72 gelaterie 86 San Siro stadium 95 Giardini della Villa Reale 72 Sant’Ambrogio 80 Giardini Pubblici 71 Sant’Eustorgio 75 Giardino Botanico 70 Santa Maria delle Grazie 78 Giardino delle Guastalla 73 Santa Maria presso San Satiro 62 Gucci 93 shopping 92 history 52 sport 94 hospitals 95 Stazione Centrale 81 hostels 85 Studio Museo Achille Castiglioni hotels 84 66 ice cream 86 supermarkets 85 information 83 swimming 95 Inter Milan 95 taxis 83 internet cafés 95 Teatro alla Scala 61 La Scala 61 theatre 91 La Scala tickets 91 Ticinese 73 Last Supper, The 79 Torre Branca 66 left luggage 95 Torre Falconiere 65 Linate airport 81 Torre Velasca 72 Loggia degli Orsi 64 tourist offices 83 Malpensa airport 81 tours 83 markets 94 trains 81 Mercato dell’Antiquariato 76 trams 82 metro 82 Triennale 66 Milan-Bergamo airport 239 Versace 93 Milan-Linate airport 81 Via Brera 67 Milan-Malpensa airport 81 Via Manzoni 70 Moscova 70 Via Montenapoleone 71 Museo Archeologico 80 Villa Belgiojoso Bonaparte 72 Museo Bagatti Valsecchi 71 Villa Reale 72 Museo d’Arte Antica 65 walking tours 83 Museo del Novecento 60 weekend itinerary 16 Museo delle Arti Decorative 65 Museo Nazionale della Scienza 80 Milan-Bergamo airport 239 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= Museo Poldi Pezzoli 70 Milan-Linate airport 81 music 90 Milan-Malpensa airport 81 Navigli 76 Mille Miglia 261 nightlife 88 mobile phones 46 opera 91 Mogno 144 Orto Botanico di Brera 70 money 45 Ospedale Maggiore 73 PAC 72 Moniga 281 Montagnola 176 Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea 72 Monte Baldo 310 Palazzo della Ragione 64 Monte Brè 170 Monte Generoso 176 Monte Isola 250 Monte San Giorgio 177 Monte San Salvatore 170 Monte Sighignola 175 Monte Tamaro 179 Monte Verità 140 Monteviasco 148 Montichiari airport 264 Morcote .177 Moto Guzzi 224 motorail 21 motoring organizations 26 motorways 25 Mottarone 125 Movieland 285 Muggio 179 Muralto 143 Museo delle Dogane Svizzere 174 Museo Hermann Hesse 176 Mussolini 358 N Negrar 335 Nesso .201 newspapers 37 O Olivedo 222 Oliveto 224 Omegna 111 opening hours 45 opera in Verona 323 Orio al Serio airport 239 Orrido di Sant’Anna 136 Orselina 144 Orta San Giulio 104–110 Orta San Giulio 108 Ossuccio 201 Osteno 174 osterie 32 outdoor pursuits 16, 40 P package tours 22 Padenghe .281 Pai 312 Palazzolo .239 Pallanza 129–134 Pallanza 130 Palm Express .209 Paratico 246 379 380 INDEX Parco Botanico del Gambarogno 148 Parco Naturale Lombardo della Valle del Ticino 160 Parco Nazionale Val Grande 136 Parco Scherrer 177 Parco Sigurtà .288 parking rules, Italy 25 parking rules, Switzerland 29 passports 42 pasta 34 Pavia 96–101 Pavia 97 Pedemonte 335 Peglio .219 Pella 111 personal safety 42 Pescallo 217 Peschiera del Garda 284 petrol stations 24 Pettenasco 110 phones 46 phrases, Italian 364 Pian di Spagna 219 Pianello 217 Pieve .300 Pigra .200 Pino .148 Piona 219 Pisogne 252 pizza 34 polenta 34 police 42 Ponte Caffaro 297 Ponte Tresa 178 Porlezza 174 Porto Ceresio .178 post 44 Prà de la Fam .300 prices 41 public holidays 46 pubs 35 Puegnago .281 Punta San Vigilio 287 Risorgimento .357 risotto 34 Riva del Garda 304–307 Riva del Garda 304 Riva San Vitale 177 Rocca Borromeo 152 rock carvings .253 Rodengo-Saiano 254 Rogaro 203 Romeo and Juliet 325 Roveredo 183 S Sacro Monte di Ghiffa 134 Sacro Monte di San Francesco 106 Sacro Monte di Varese .159 Sala Comacina 201 salami 34 Salò 291–293 Salò 292 San Carlo Borromeo 152 San Fedele Intelvi 175 San Giovanni .216 San Mamete 174 San Martino della Battaglia 287 San Maurizio d’Opaglio 111 San Michele 293 San Pellegrino .242 San Pietro in Cariano 335 Sancarlone 152 Santa Caterina del Sasso .151 Santa Maria del Monte 159 Santa Maria Maggiore .147 Sarnico 246 Sebino .see Lake Iseo Selva Capuzza .288 Sentiero delle Quattro Valli 210 Serie A 40 Sesto Calende .155 shop hours 45 short breaks 22 Sighignola 175 Sigurtà park 288 silk 194 Sirmione 282–284 Sirmione 282 radio 38 Slow Food 35 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= smoking rules 33 rail Solferino 288 from the UK 21 sports 40 in Italy 26 in Switzerland 29 St Moritz .209 Ranco .154 Stazzona .218 Red Cross 288 Strada del Vino Franciacorta regional map 255 renting a car 26 Stradivari 267 restaurants 32 Stresa 117–126 Rezzonico .217 Stresa 120 R Stresa and around 117 supermarkets 35 Swiss Customs Museum 174 Swissminiatur 177 Switzerland Tourism 47 T Taleggio 34 telephones 46 television 38 theme parks 285 Ticino Tourism 47 Ticino, republic of 164 Tignale 300 time zone 46 timetables 27 tipping 47 tiramisù 34 Tirano .209 toilets 47 Torbole 308 Torno 201 Torri del Benaco 312 Torriggia 200 Toscolano Maderno 297 tour operators 22 tourist offices, Italian 47 tourist offices, Swiss 47 trains from the UK 21 trains in Italy 26 trains in Switzerland 29 transport 23–30 trattorias 32 travel agents 22 travellers with disabilities 48 travellers’ cheques 45 Tremezzina 202 Tremezzo 203–206 Tremosine 300 trenino rosso .209 Treno Blu .239 TV 38 V Vacciago 111 Val Bregaglia 209 Val Brembana 242 Val Camonica 253 Val Cannobina 136 Val Cavallina 242 Val Cuvia .150 Val d’Intelvi 200 Val Ganna .160 Val Grande national park 136 Val Menaggio 210 INDEX Val Poschiavo 209 Val Veddasca .148 Val Verzasca 145 Val Vigezzo 147 Valassina .217 Valeggio sul Mincio 288 Valerio Catullo airport .331 Vallassina 217 Valle di Muggio 179 Valle Maggia 144 Valle Seriana 242 Valpolicella 335 Valsassina .224 Valsolda 174 Valtellina .209 Valtenesi .281 Valvestino .296 Varenna 220–224 Varenna 221 Varese 155–161 Varese 156 Varesotto 160 vegan food 36 vegetarian food 36 Verbania 129–134 Verbania 130 Verbano see Lake Maggiore VERONA 315 Verona 320 Verona and around 318 Verona, central 328 accommodation .333 airport 331 Arche Scaligere 322 Arco dei Gavi .326 Arco della Costa .322 Arena 319 arrival 331 art museum 326 bars .336 bus station 332 cafés 334 Carnevale 332 Casa di Giulietta .324 Castelvecchio 326 Catullo airport 331 Duomo 326 eating and drinking 334 flight arrivals 331 fresco museum 330 Giardino Giusti 331 Giusti gardens 331 hostel 334 hotels 333 information 332 Juliet’s House 324 Juliet’s Tomb 330 Liston 318 Museo Archeologico .331 Museo degli Affreschi 330 Museo Lapidario Maffeiano 318 opera 323 Piazza Brà 318 Piazza dei Signori .322 Piazza delle Erbe 319 Ponte Pietra 330 Ponte Scaligero .326 Porta dei Borsari .326 Porta Nuova .318 Porta Nuova station 332 public transport 332 restaurants 334 Roman Arena 319 Romeo and Juliet .325 San Fermo 324 San Giorgio in Braida 331 San Lorenzo .326 San Zeno Maggiore .330 Sant’Anastasia 324 Santa Maria in Organo 331 synagogue 322 Teatro Romano 331 Tomba di Giulietta 330 Torre dei Lamberti 322 tourist office .332 tours 333 train station 332 transport .332 Valerio Catullo airport 331 Valpolicella 335 Verona Card .319 Verona-Brescia airport 264 Verona-Villafranca airport 331 Via Mazzini 319 walking tours 333 Verona airport 331 Verona-Brescia airport .264 Verona-Villafranca airport 331 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= Verscio 147 Verzasca Dam .145 Vezio castle 222 Via dei Monti Lariani 199 Via Valeriana 253 Via Verde Varesina .160 Vico Morcote .177 Vigezzina 147 Villa Carlotta 206 Villa Cicogna Mozzoni .160 Villa Cipressi 222 Villa d’Este 199 Villa del Balbianello 202 Villa della Porta Bozzolo 150 Villa Erba .199 Villa Giulia 132 Villa Melzi .213 Villa Monastero 222 Villa Pallavicino 124 Villa Panza 157 Villa Pliniana 201 Villa San Remigio .132 Villa Serbelloni 212 Villa Taranto 131 Villafranca airport 331 villas 31 Vira 148 visas 43 Vittoriale, Il 294–296 W weather websites 49 wine 37 words and phrases 364 World War II 359 Z zabaione 34 Zone .252 381 MAP SYMBOLS Map symbols The symbols below are used on maps throughout the book International boundary Bridge Parking One way Province boundary Gate Ruins Church Chapter division boundary Mountain peak Swimming pool Building Major road Place of interest Rocks Stadium Minor road Bus stop Hill Park Motorway road Viewpoint Synagogue Beach Pedestrian road Castle Cable car Cemetery Railway Monastery Funicular Ferry route Campsite Post office River Airport Tourist office Listings key Accommodation VIA S P C A CA LE VIA ST AL GR EG E TU PA DI SA NIS LA OR IO TI IA O CA VIA LIC CC PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA FE LE VIA Repubblica EN VIA EI OT LIL RL GA ZZ I jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= VIA Shops VIA CA Bars/clubs NI VIA TO RIA Restaurants/cafés VIA 382 jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= ... – throughout the guide, highlighted with the ★ symbol TOP ISOLA BELLA BOTTOM LAKE GARDA 10 15 THINGS NOT TO MISS 15 things not to miss It’s not possible to see everything that the Italian Lakes. .. jI7MhvNv+lXBXapzj5SfAgA= 16 ITINERARIES Itineraries The Italian Lakes aren’t only about touring: many people choose one or other of the lakes and then base themselves there to explore locally But if you fancy... is divided into the A50 Tangenziale Ovest (west, which also covers the southern part) and the A51 Tangenziale Est (the eastern part); the A4 comprises the northern stretch Italian motorway driving