The rough guide to cina

INSIDE THIS BOOK INTRODUCTION What to see, what not to miss, itineraries and more – everything you need to get started BASICS Pre-departure tips and practical information THE GUIDE Comprehensive, in-depth guide to the country, with area highlights and full-colour maps throughout CONTEXTS History, beliefs, Chinese medicine, art, music, film and books plus a useful language section We’ve flagged up our favourite places – a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant – throughout the Guide with the ★ symbol China chapters 600 kilometres RUSSIA KAZAKHSTAN MONGOLIA KYRGYZSTAN SEA OF NORTH JAPAN KOREA 13 SOUTH KOREA INDIA 12 PA L MYANMAR (BURMA) BANGLADESH THAILAND VIETNAM LAOS BAY OF BENGAL Shanghai and around The Yangzi basin Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island Hong Kong and Macau Make the Most of Your Time on Earth at roughguides.com This eighth edition published June 2017 EAST CHINA SEA 10 11 Beijing and around Hebei and Tianjin Dongbei The Yellow River The eastern seaboard BHUTAN N JAPAN 14 NE YELLOW SEA TAIWAN SOUTH CHINA SEA PHILIPPINES G Guangxi and Guizhou H Yunnan I Sichuan and Chongqing J The Northwest K Tibet THE ROUGH GUIDE TO CHINA This eighth edition updated by Thomas Bird, Stuart Butler, Joanna James, David Leffman, Simon Lewis, Mark South, Charles Young and Martin Zatko INTRODUCTION Contents INTRODUCTION Where to go When to go 12 Author picks 13 Things not to miss 14 Itineraries 28 BASICS 30 Getting there 31 The media 48 Getting around 35 Festivals 49 Accommodation 40 Shopping 50 Eating and drinking 42 Sports and outdoor activities 51 Health 45 Travelling with children 51 Culture and etiquette 47 Travel essentials 51 60 Fujian, Guangdong and Hainan Island 458 Hong Kong and Macau THE GUIDE Beijing and around 60 Hebei and Tianjin 130 Dongbei 156 10 Guangxi and Guizhou 540 604 The Yellow River 190 11 Yunnan 656 The eastern seaboard 276 12 Sichuan and Chongqing 724 Shanghai and around 344 13 The Northwest 786 The Yangzi basin 392 14 Tibet 866 CONTEXTS 922 History 923 Film 959 Chinese beliefs 942 Books 964 Traditional Chinese Medicine 947 Chinese 970 Art 949 Glossary 984 Music 954 SMALL PRINT & INDEX OPPOSITE ZHANGJIAJIE PREVIOUS PAGE GUIYANG 986 INTRODUCTION Introduction to China China is a nation on the march As it accelerates away from its preindustrial cocoon at a rate unmatched in human history, huge new cities with cutting-edge architecture continue to spring up, connected by an ever-expanding high-speed rail network But look closer and you’ll see China’s splendidly diverse geographic, ethnic, culinary and social make-up is not lost; modernity conceals a civilization that has remained intact, continually recycling itself, for over four millennia Chinese script was perfected during the Han dynasty (220 BC–220 AD), and the stone lions that stand sentinel outside skyscrapers first appeared as temple guardians over three thousand years ago Indeed, it is the contrast between change and continuity that make modern China so fascinating The first thing that strikes visitors to this country is the extraordinary density of its population In much of eastern, central and southern China, villages, towns and cities seem to sprawl endlessly into one another along the grey arteries of busy expressways Move to the far south or west, however, and the population thins out as it begins to vary; large areas are inhabited not by the “Chinese”, but by scores of distinct ethnic minorities, ranging from animist hill tribes to urban Muslims Here, the landscape begins to dominate: green paddy fields and misty hilltops in the southwest, the scorched, epic vistas of the old Silk Road in the northwest, and the magisterial mountains of Tibet Although abundant buses, flights and high-speed trains have made getting around China the easiest it has ever been, to get under the skin of this country is still no simple matter The main tourist highlights – the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Terracotta Army and the Yangzi gorges – are relatively few considering the vast size of the country, and much of China’s historic architecture has been deliberately destroyed in the rush to modernize Added to this are the frustrations of travelling in a land where few people ABOVE THE GREAT WALL OPPOSITE FROM TOP GIANT PANDAS, SICHUAN; HONG KONG BY NIGHT speak English, the writing system is alien and foreigners are sometimes viewed as exotic objects of intense curiosity – though overall you’ll find that Chinese people, despite a reputation for curtness, are generally hospitable and friendly Where to go As China has opened up in recent years, so the emphasis on tourism has changed Many well-known cities and sights have become so developed that their charm has vanished, while in remoter regions – particularly Tibet, Yunnan and the Northwest – previously restricted or “undiscovered” places have become newly accessible The following outline is a selection of both “classic” China sights and less-known attractions, which should come in handy when planning a schedule Inevitably, Beijing is on everyone’s itinerary, and the Great Wall and the splendour of the Forbidden City are certainly not to be missed; the capital also offers some of the country’s best food and nightlife Chengde, too, just north of Beijing, has some stunning imperial buildings, constructed by emperors when this was their favoured retreat for the summer South of the capital, the Yellow River valley is the cradle of Chinese civilization, where remnants of the dynastic age lie scattered in a unique landscape of loess terraces The cave temples at Datong and Luoyang are magnificent, with huge Buddhist sculptures staring out impassively across their now industrialized settings Of the historic capitals, Xi’an is the most obvious destination, where the celebrated 0 600 600 kilometres kilometres RUSSIA RUSSIA KAZAKHSTAN KAZAKHSTAN NN LakeLake Balkhash Balkhash AltayAltay A BISHKEK BISHKEK Ürümqi Ürümqi KYRGYZSTAN KYRGYZSTAN Torugart Torugart PassPass S S A I AN I N U ON UT N T O T I TA IN A NS H S A HN A NM M Turpan Turpan KorlaKorla P A M I R P A M I R Kashgar Kashgar MONGOLIA MONGOLIA S I N S TA I N N U TA O M UN O I A M T L AI T L Yining Yining Almaty Almaty A HamiHami XINJIANG XINJIANG IN ED T A N ISPUT U N A I D PUTED M O N T S DI U M O T AT A K L KA L A M AMK AA KN A ND E DS EE SR ET R T Khunjerab Khunjerab PassPass S Mogao Mogao Caves Caves Dunhuang Dunhuang Jiayuguan Jiayuguan Khotan Khotan N SN S T A TI A I K U KNU L NU LNU NM OMU ON U N S Golmud Golmud BOU BOU NDA NDA RY RY QINGHAI QINGHAI DI SP DI SP TIBET TIBET YangYzai ngzi RY RY La La nc nc an an Shigatse S Shigatse JILINJILIN CHONGQING CHONGQING SHI SHI LIAONING LIAONING FUJIAN FUJIAN MACAU MACAU GANSU GANSU NINGXIA NINGXIA GUANGDONG GUANGDONG GUANGXI GUANGXI QINGHAI QINGHAI GUIZHOU GUIZHOU SHAANXI SHAANXI SHANDONG SHANDONG HEBEI HEBEI SHANGHAI SHANGHAI SHI SHI HEILONGJIANG HEILONGJIANG SHANXI SHANXI HENAN HENAN SICHUAN SICHUAN HONG HONG KONG KONG TIANJIN TIANJIN SHI SHI (TJS)(TJS) HUBEI HUBEI TIBET TIBET HUNAN HUNAN XINJIANG XINJIANG INNER INNER MONGOLIA MONGOLIA YUNNAN YUNNAN JIANGSU JIANGSU ZHEJIANG ZHEJIANG THIMPHU THIMPHU Nu Nu R iv R iv er er SICHUAN SICHUAN li) we (Sh eli) w (S h JIANGXI JIANGXI BEIJING BEIJING SHI SHI (BJS)(BJS) MountMount EverestEverest Lhasa Lhasa ) ong (Mek ) iver ong (Mek iver AS gR gR A Y Y A KATHMANDU KATHMANDU ANHUI ANHUI low DA DA H Zhangmu Zhangmu I NI D N IDAI A low r ve r ve KailashKailash H I I M M A A L L A NEPAL NEPAL Ye Ye l l Riv Riv er er Ri Ali AliMountMount Ri UTED BOUN UTED BOUN DELHI DELHI Xining Xinin Qinghai Qinghai LakeLake DISPUTED DISPUTED BOUNDARY BOUNDARY BHUTAN BHUTAN Tiger Tiger Leaping Leaping Gorge Gorge Lijiang Lijiang BANGLADESH BANGLADESH Xiaguan Xiaguan Kunming Kunming DHAKA DHAKA XISHUANGBANNA XISHUANGBANNA Jinghong Jinghong M YMAYNAM NAMRA R ( B (UBRUM RAM) A ) BAYBAY OFOF BENGAL BENGAL Mo Han Mo Han THAILAND THAILAND CHINA CHINA LakeLake Baikal Baikal Irkutsk Irkutsk Heihe Heihe UlanUlan UdeUde Manzhouli Manzhouli er er Riv Riv ur ur Am Am Yichun Yichun Qiqihar Qiqihar HEILONGJIANG HEILONGJIANG ULAN BATOR ULAN BATOR Harbin Harbin Changchun Changchun INNER INNER MONGOLIA MONGOLIA R TR T S ES E D ED E I I B B G OG O Erlianhot Erlianhot Shenyang Shenyang JilinJilin JILIN JILIN Changbai Changbai Shan Shan Nature Nature Reserve Reserve NORTH JinzhouLIAONING Jinzhou LIAONING NORTH KOREA KOREA HEBEI HEBEI SEASEA OFOF Hohhot Hohhot Chengde Chengde Dandong Dandong JAPAN JAPAN WallWall YelloYwelRloivwerRiver GreaGtreat BJSBJS PYONGYANG PYONGYANG BEIJING Datong Datong BEIJING Tangshan Tangshan Dalian Dalian TJSTJSTianjin WutaiWutai Shan Shan of Bohai Tianjin Bay ofBayBohai Taiyuan Taiyuan Yinchuan Yinchuan ng SHANXI SHANXI NINGXIA NINGXIA Yan'an Yan'an Lanzhou Lanzhou Terracotta Terracotta Army Army GANSU GANSU Yuncheng Yuncheng Tai Shan Tai Shan SHANDONG Anyang AnyangSHANDONG ver ver i Ri i Ri Hua Hua HENAN HENAN Emei Emei Shan Shan Hefei Hefei Wudang Wudang Xiangfan Shan Shan Xiangfan DamDam Chengdu Chengdu Chongqing Chongqing Zhangjiajie Zhangjiajie ive iver YangYzainRg z i R Nanjing Nanjing Fanjing Fanjing Shan Shan Changsha Changsha Guilin Guilin Liuzhou Ho HoLiuzhou ng ng Shu Shu i Rivei rRiver Nanning Nanning iver Li R iver Li R YUNNAN YUNNAN ZHEJIANG ZHEJIANG Jingdezhen Jingdezhen Nanchang Nanchang JIANGXI JIANGXI Heng Heng Shan Shan Guiyang Guiyang n Shanghai Suzhou Suzhou Shanghai SHANGHAI SHANGHAI SHISHI Dongting Dongting Hu HUNAN HUNAN Hu GUIZHOU GUIZHOU FUJIAN FUJIAN GUANGXI YouyiYouyi GUANGXI Hekou Hekou GuanGuan Beihai Beihai Guangzhou Guangzhou Zhuhai Zhuhai metres metres MACAU MACAU Taipei Taipei TAIWAN TAIWAN 60006000 50005000 40004000 30003000 Shenzhen Shenzhen HONG HONG KONG KONG 20002000 10001000 HANOI HANOI Sanya Sanya PACIFIC PACIFIC OCEAN OCEAN EAST EAST CHINA CHINA SEASEA Fuzhou Fuzhou Ganzhou Ganzhou Xiamen Xiamen Meizhou Meizhou GUANGDONG GUANGDONG Wuzhou Wuzhou VIETNAM LAOS LAOS VIETNAM HAINAN HAINAN JAPAN JAPAN Hangzhou HangzhouNingbo Ningbo Poyang Poyang Hu Hu Leshan Leshanr SEASEA Tai Hu Tai Hu HUBEI HUBEI CHONGQING CHONGQING ANHUI ANHUI HuangHuang Wuhan Wuhan SHISHI Shan Shan Three Gorges Three Gorges N Qingdao Qingdao YELLOW YELLOW JIANGSU JIANGSU Xuzhou Hongze Hongze Hu Hu Kaifeng Kaifeng Xuzhou Song Shan Song Shan SHAANXI SHAANXI Songpan Songpan SOUTH SOUTH KOREA KOREA Zhengzhou Zhengzhou Xi’anXi’an Jiuzhaigou Jiuzhaigou Scenic Scenic Reserve Reserve Ji'nan Ji'nan SEOUL SEOUL Yantai Yantai Shijiazhuang Shijiazhuang 500 500 Haikou Haikou WuzhiWuzhi Shan Shan SOUTH SOUTH CHINA CHINA SEASEA 200 200 PHILIPPINES PHILIPPINES 0 INTRODUCTION MARTIAL ARTS Thousands of martial arts have evolved in China, usually in isolated communities that had to defend themselves, such as temples and clan villages All, though, can be classed into two basic types: external (“hard”) styles concentrate on building up physical strength to overpower opponents; the trickier internal (“soft”) styles concentrate on developing and focusing the internal energy known as qi Both styles use forms – prearranged sets of movements – to develop the necessary speed, power and timing; as well as kicks, punches and open palm strikes, they also incorporate movements inspired by animals The most famous external style is Shaolin kung fu, developed in the Shaolin Temple in Henan province (see box, p.264) and known for powerful kicks and animal styles – notably eagle, mantis and monkey The classic Shaolin weapon is the staff, and there’s even a drunken form, where the practitioner sways and lurches as if inebriated But the style that you’re most likely to see – it’s practised in the open all over the country – is the internal tai ji quan The body is held in a state of minimal tension to create the art’s characteristic “soft” appearance Its emphasis on slow movements and increasing qi flow means it is excellent for health, and it’s a popular workout for the elderly Terracotta Army still stands guard over the tomb of Emperor Qin Shi Huang Other ancient towns include sleepy Kaifeng in Henan, and Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, in Shandong, both offering architectural treasures and an intimate, human scale that’s hard to find in the large cities The area is also well supplied with holy mountains, providing both beautiful scenery and a rare continuity with the past: Tai Shan is perhaps the grandest and most imperial of the country’s pilgrimage sites; Song Shan in Henan sees followers of the contemporary kung fu craze making the trek to the Shaolin Temple, where the art originated; and Wutai Shan in Shanxi features some of the best-preserved religious sites in the country Dominating China’s east coast near the mouth of the Yangzi, Shanghai is the mainland’s most Westernized city, a booming port where the Art Deco monuments of the old European-built Bund – the riverside business centre – rub shoulders with a hypermodern metropolis, crowned with some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers Shanghai’s modernity and profit-driven population finds a natural rival in the international commercial hub of Hong Kong, off China’s south coast With its colonial heritage and refreshingly cosmopolitan outlook, there’s almost nothing Hong Kong cannot offer in the way of tourist facilities, from fine beaches to great eating, drinking and nightlife Nearby Macau is also worth a visit, if not for its casinos then for its Baroque churches and Portuguese cuisine In the southwest of the country, Sichuan’s Chengdu and Yunnan’s Kunming remain two of China’s most easy-going provincial capitals, and the entire region is, by any standards, exceptionally diverse, with landscapes encompassing everything from snowbound summits and alpine lakes to steamy tropical jungles The karst (limestone peak) scenery is particularly renowned, especially along the Li River between Yangshuo and Guilin in Guangxi In Sichuan, pilgrims flock to see the colossal Great Buddha at Leshan, and to ascend the holy mountain of Emei Shan; to the east, the city of Chongqing marks the start of river trips down the Yangzi, Asia’s longest river, through the Three Gorges As Yunnan and Guangxi share borders with Vietnam, Laos and Myanmar (Burma), and CLOCKWISE FROM TOP HIGH-SPEED TRAIN NANJING; MONG KOK FOOD STALL, HONG KONG; HAND-PRINTING CHINESE SCRIPT 994 INDEX Guyi Garden 388 Guyuan 219 Gyantse 908–911 Gyantse 909 H Haba village .696 Haikou 526–530 Haikou 527 Hailar 188 Hailuogou Glacier Park 778 Hainan, Guangdong and Fujian 462 Hainan ferries 632 Hainan Island 525–539 Hainan Island 526 Hainan Island surfing .533 Hakka .482 Hakka mansions .482 Hami 840–842 Han dynasty 925 Hanging Temple 20, 244 Hangzhou 326–334 Hangzhou 327 Hankou 415 Hanoi (Vietnam) .630 Harbin 183–187 Harbin 184 Harbin Ice Festival 23, 185 health 45–47 Heavenly Lake 836 Hebei and Tianjin 130–155 Hebei and Tianjin 134 Hefei 398–401 Hefei 398 Heilongjiang 183–189 Heilongjiang province 160 Heishan rock carvings .821 Hekou 676 Helan Shan 225 Henan 257–275 Henan 194–195 Heng Shan 437–439 Heng Shan 244 herbal medicine 948 Heshun 710 Hexi Corridor 818–829 Hezuo 807 hiking 51 Cang Shan 683 Dragon’s Back 559 Hua Shan (Shaanxi) 216 Jiankou .122 Lake Karakul .863 Langmusi 776 Tai Shan .298 Tibet 882 Tiger Leaping Gorge .697 Wutai Shan 249 Zhangjiajie 439 history 923–941 Hohhot 232–235 Hohhot 233 Hong He Valley 675 HONG KONG 544–588 Hong Kong 546–547 Central Macau 592–593 Hong Kong and Macau 544 Hong Kong Island North Shore 550–551 Kowloon 560 MTR system 576 Aberdeen 557 Aberdeen Harbour cruises 558 accommodation .577–580 airport 572 Airport Express train .572 arrival 572 Avenue of Stars .561 banks 587 bars .584 beaches 559, 567, 568, 570, 571 Bird Garden 563 Blake Pier 558 border crossings .574 Botantical Gardens 552 Bowen Road .556 buses (long distance) .573 buses (local) .574 cable car 572 camping 578 Causeway Bay 557 Central district .549–552 Central Plaza 556 cha chaan tengs 582 Cheung Chau Island .568 Chi Lin Nunnery .564 Chungking Mansions .579 Clear Water Bay .567 clubs .584 Convention and Exhibition Centre 556 Cultural Centre 561 currency 544, 587 curry houses 583 dim sum restaurants 581 directory 587 Disneyland 572 Dragon’s Back hike 559 drinking .584 eating 580–584 emergencies 587 Exchange Square .549 ferries (local) 575 ferries (to Macau) .573 ferries (to China) .574 festivals 548 Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware 553 Flower Market 563 free things 553 Goldfish Market 563 Happy Valley Racecourse 557 harbour 15 history 545–548 Hollywood Road .552 Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank (HSBC) 550 Hong Kong Heritage Museum 565 Hong Kong Island 548–559 Hong Kong Park .553 Hong Kong Wetland Park 565 hospitals 587 Hung Hom Railway Station 573 Hung Shing Ye beach .568 International Commerce Centre (ICC) 562 International Finance Centre (IFC) 549 internet 587 island ferries .570 Jade Market 563 Joss House Bay 567 Kadoorie Farm 566 Kam Tin 565 Kat Hing Wai 565 Kowloon 559–564 Kowloon Mosque 562 Kowloon Park 562 Kowloon Walled City Park 564 Kung Fu Corner .562 Ladder Street .553 Ladies’ Market 563 Lamma Island 568 Lan Kwai Fong 551 Lantau Island .571 Lantau Peak 572 laundry .588 left luggage 588 Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum 563 Lovers’ Rock 556 Man Mo Temple 552 Maritime Museum 549 medicinal tea .581 Mid-Levels Escalator .552 minibuses 575 Mirador Mansions 579 MTR .574 Mui Wo 571 Murray House 558 Museum of Coastal Defence 557 Museum of History 562 Nan Lian Gardens 564 Nathan Road 561 New Territories 565–567 Ngong Ping 360 night market 562 nightlife .584 Noon Day Gun 557 Ocean Park 558 octopus card 575 Old Peak Road 554 Pak Tai Temple 556, 570 parks 553, 557, 558, 562, 564, 565, 566 Peak, the 554 Peak Circle Walk 554 Peak Tower 554 Peak Tram 554 Peninsula Hotel .561 Plover Cove Country Park .566 Po Lin Monastery .571 INDEX phone numbers 545 police 588 post offices 588 Queen’s Road East 556 restaurants 581–584 restaurants, dim sum .581 Sai Kung Peninsula 566 Sai Kung Town 567 Science Museum 562 Sha Tin 565 Sham Shui Po 563 Shek O 559 Shenzhen airport .573 Sheung Wan .552 Sheung Wan Market .553 shopping 585–587 Sky 100 observation deck 562 Soho 551 Sok Kwu Wan .568 Space Museum 561 Stanley 558 Stanley Market 558 Star Ferry .549 Statue Square 550 Sunset Peak 572 Symphony of Lights 561 Tai Long Wan beach 567 Tai Mei Tuk 566 Tai Mo Shan 565 Tai O 571 Tai Po 566 taxis .575 telephone numbers 545 Temple Street Night Market 562 Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery 566 Tin Hau Temple 558 tourist information 575 tours 577 trains (to China) 573 trams 575 transport .574 travel agents 573 Tsim Sha Tsui .561 Tung Chung .571 Upper Lascar Row 553 Victoria Park .557 visas 574 Wan Chai .556 Western Market 553 Wong Tai Sin Temple .564 youth hostels .578 Yung Shue Wan 568 Zoological Gardens 552 Hongcun .407 Hongjiang Ancient Commercial City 445 Hongkeng 482 Horgos border crossing 840 horse-trekking 772, 776 hospitals 46 hostels 42 Hotan 858–861 Hotan 859 Hotan jade 858 Hotan silk 860 hotels 41 Houhai Bay 533 Hua Shan (Guanxi) 634 Hua Shan (Shaanxi) 216–219 Huang Shan 408–412 Huang Shan 409 Huang Shan Shi (Tunxi) 404–406 Huang Shan Shi (Tunxi) 404 Huangguoshu Falls 654 Huanghua 121 Huanglong 773 Huanglongxi 742 Huangze Temple 746 Huaqing Pool 210 Huayao villages 720 Hubei 412–430 Hubei 397 Hui Muslims 218 Huiyuan .840 Huizhou .515 Huizhou architecture .403 Hukou Falls 256 human rights 940 Humen 505 Hunan 430–446 Hunan 397 Hundred Flowers Campaign 935 I Ili Valley 837–840 immigration 53 Imperial Palace, Beijing 70 Imperial Palace, Shenyang .171 inkstones 524 Inner Mongolia 227–237 Inner Mongolia 194–195 internet 54 Islam in China 218, 803, 828, 945 itineraries 28 J jade 953 Japan 933, 941 Jews in China 270 Ji’nan 289–294 Ji’nan 290 Ji’nan’s springs 291 Jiaju 779 Jianfeng Ling Forest Reserve 537 Jiangsu 308–325 Jiangsu 280 Jiangsu cuisine 317 Jiangxi 446–457 Jiangxi 397 Jiangyou .745 Jiankou 122 Jianmenguan 746 Jianshui 672 Jiao Shan 146 Jiaohe 845 Jiayuguan 820–822 Jiayuguan 820 Jiayuguan Fort .15, 820 Jiegao 713 Jiele Jin Ta 713 Jietai Temple .128 Jiexiang 714 Jilin city 177 Jilin province 174–182 Jilin province 160 Jilin’s ski resorts 179 Jin Dian Park 671 Jingdezhen 452–454 Jinggang Shan 455–457 Jinghong 715–720 Jinghong 716 Jingzhou .421 Jinshanling 124 Jinuo Shan 720 Jishou .444 Jiuhua Shan 401–404 Jiuhua Shan 401 Jiuzhaigou 773–775 Jiuzhaigou Kou 774 Jiuzhou 646 Jizu Shan .678 Jokhang 18, 888 Journey to the West 844 July 1st Glacier 821 Juyong Pass 121 K Kaifeng 270–275 Kaifeng 271 Kaifeng’s Jews .270 Kaili 643–645 Kaili 644 Around Kaili and Zhenyuan 647 Kaiping 505 Kangding 777 Kangding 777 Kangxi 930 Karakoram Highway 862–865 Karez .846 995 996 INDEX Kargilik 858 Kashgar 850–856 Kashgar 852 Kashgar Sunday Market 16, 853 Kawagarbo 704 Kazakhs 836 Kazakhstan border 832, 840 kejia .482 Khunjerab Pass 864 Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves 850 Kong family, the 304 Kongtong Shan 796 Korean War 935 Kublai Khan 227, 929 Kumbum Monastery 813 kung fu 264 Kunming 663–671 Kunming and around 664 Kunming borders 667 Kuqa 848–850 Kuqa 848 Kyrgyzstan border .851 L Labrang Monastery 16, 804 lakes Aiding Lake 846 Baofeng Hu 440 Baogong Lake 272 Beixiu Lake 490 Bishu Shanzhuang lake 150 Bita Lake 702 Caohai 25, 655 Chaka Salt Lake .817 Crescent Moon Lake .827 Cuihu Park lake 665 Daming Lake 291 Dangra Lake .882 Dong Hu 337 Dongting Hu 430 East Lake, Hankou 418 Er Hai 685 Five-coloured Lake 774 Heavenly Lake, Changbai Shan (Jilin) 23, 179, Heavenly Lake, Xinjiang 836 Holy Lake 704 Hu Family Lake 445 Kunming Lake 96 Karakul Lake 13, 862 Lashi Hai 692 Lhamo Lhatso 903 Lugu Lake 694, 749 Manasarovar Lake 920 Mapham Tso 920 Namtso 906 Napa Lake 701 Qinghai Lake 816 Qionghai Lake 755 Rong Lake 610 Ruqin Lake 451 Ruyi Lake .268 Sai Van Lake .598 Sayram Lake .840 Shan Lake 610 Shicha Lakes 81 Shuodu Lake 702 Shuzheng Lakes .774 Songhua Lake 178 Star Lake 523 Tai Hu 325 Tian Chi, Changbai Shan (Jilin) 23, 179 Tian Chi, Xinjiang .836 West Lake, Hangzhou .327 West Lake, Huizhou .515 Xi Hu, Hangzhou 327 Xi Hu, Huizhou 515 Xuanwu Lake .312 Yamdrok Tso .907 Yangjia Lake .273 Yansai Lake 146 Langde Shang 648 Langmusi 776 language 970–983 language teaching 55 Langzhong 747–749 Langzhong 747 Lanzhou 797–802 Lanzhou East 797 Laos borders 667, 721 Lao Long Tou .146 Lao Shan .289 Lashi Hai .692 Last Emperor, the 177 laundry 55 Leshan 26, 749 Leshan 750 LGBT 48 Lhamo Lhatso .903 Lhasa 883–896 Lhasa 884–885 Lhatse 917 Li Bai .745 Li minority 539 Li River .26, 615–617 Li River cruises 616 Li Zicheng 930 Liang Shan 755 Lianhua Shan 504 Liaoning 162–174 Liaoning 160 Lige 695 Lijiang 688–692 Lijiang 689 Lijiang to Shangri-La 696 Lintong Museum .210 Litang .783 Litang 783 Litang’s horse festival .784 Little Three Gorges 769 Liu San Jie show .621 Liuku .707 Long March, the 455, 933 Longji Titian 623 Longjing tea 331 Longmen Caves 259 Longwu Monastery 808 Loulan Beauty .833 Loulan lost city 862 Lu Shan 450–452 Lugu Hu Zhen .695 Lugu Lake .694 lunar New Year 49 Luoshui 694 Luoyang 257–263 Luoyang 258 Luoyang’s peonies 257 Lushui 707 M Ma Bufang 811 MACAU 588–603 Macau 589 Central Macau 592–593 Hong Kong, Macau and 544 A-Ma Temple 598 accommodation .600 airport 599 arrival 599 Avenida da Amizade .595 Avenida da Republica 598 banks 603 Barrier Gate 596 bars .603 beaches .599 border crossing .600 buses (local) .600 buses (long distance) .600 buses to Taipa and Coloane 599 cafés 601 casinos 594 Cathedral (Sé) 591 China border 596 Coloane .599 Cotai 598 currency 588 directory 603 drinking .603 eating 601–603 entry regulations .600 ferries 599 festivals 603 food, Macanese 602 Guia Chapel 595 Guia Fortress 595 Guia Hill .595 Hác Sá beach .599 history 588–590 hospital 603 Kun Iam Temple 595 Leal Senado 591 Lialu Square .596 INDEX Lin Fung Temple .596 Lin Zexu Museum 596 Lou Kau Mansion .591 Lou Lim Ieoc Garden 595 Macanese food 602 Macau Museum 594 Macau peninsula 590–598 Mandarin’s House 596 Maritime Museum 598 Moorish Barracks 596 Mount Fortress 594 Museum of Art 595 nightlife .603 Old Protestant Cemetery 594 phone numbers 590 police 603 post offices 603 Red Market 596 restaurants 602 Ruins of St Paul’s 591 Senado Square 591 St Dominic’s Church 591 Taipa .598 Tak Seng On .594 taxis .600 The Barra .596 Three Lamps District .596 tourist information 600 transport .600 Macau–Zhuhai border .517 mail 58 Maji Shan 795 Mandarin Chinese 970–983 Manting .721 Manzhouli 188 Mao Zedong 75, 430, 641, 933–937 Mao Zedong Exhibition Hall 436 Mao Zedong Memorial Hall 75 Mao’s family home 436 Mapham Tso (Lake Manasarova) 920 maps 56 Marco Polo 65, 128, 227, 327, 841, 929, 966 Marco Polo Bridge 128 martial arts 8, 113, 504 Matang 646 May Fourth Movement 933 media 48 medicine, traditional Chinese 947 Meili Xue Shan .25, 703–706 Melikawat .859 Menghai 722 Menghan 720 Menghun 723 Mengjiangnü Temple .147 Menglun .721 Mengyang 720 Mengzhe .722 Menshi 921 Miao 648 Miao minority .539 Miao villages 645–649 Ming dynasty 929 Ming Tomb 124, 316 minibuses 38 minority villages, Yunnan 18 Miran lost city .862 mobile phones 57 Moganshan 334 Mogao Caves 23, 825, 826 money 56 Mongolian grasslands .236 Moon Hill 623 Mosuo 694 Mount Everest 917 Mount Kailash 20, 920 Moxi 779 Mukeng 408 muqam music .856 Museum of Ancient Tombs 261 music .856, 692, 954–958 music, Chinese rock 957 music, muqam 856 music, Naxi 692 Muslims in China 218, 803, 828, 945 Mutianyu 122 Muyu Zhen 425 Myanmar borders 667, 713 N Naadam festival 232 Namtso 906 Nanchang 447–450 Nanchang 447 Nanjing 308–318 Nanjing 310–311 Nanjing Massacre 314 Nanning 628–632 Nanning 629 Nanping 408 Nanshan 837 Napa Lake 701 Naxi, the 691 Naxi music 692 Nechung Monastery 899 Nepal border .919 newspapers 48 Ningming .634 Ningxia 219–226 Ningxia 194–195 Niu Jiang Valley treks .709 Niya .861 Norbulingka 892 North Korea 168, 182 Nu Jiang Valley 706–709 O one-child policy 939 opening hours 57 opera 112, 956 Opium Wars 505, 931 Outer Mongolia 236 Overhanging Wall 821 overland routes to China 33–35 P paifang 407 painting .950 Pakistan border 851, 865 Palhalupuk Temple 887 Panchen Lama 154, 913 pandas 736 Panzhihua 691 paomo 205 Pearl River Delta 502–505 Pearl River Delta 503 Peking Duck 25, 108 petty crime 619 pharmacies 46 phones 57 photography 58 Ping An 623 Pingfang torture museum .185 Pingxiang .630 Pingyao 251–255 Pingyao 23 Pingyao 253 pinyin transliteration system 971 police 52 politics 938 population 939 porcelain 452–454 post 58 Potala Palace 884–886 public holidays 49 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 52 public transport 40 Pudacuo National Park 702 Putuo Shan 339–343 Putuo Shan 340 Q Qianlong .930 Qianyang Ancient Town 446 997 998 INDEX Qiao Family Mansion 257 Qiaotou 695 Qibao .388 Qin dynasty 925 Qin Shi Huang 213, 925 Qing dynasty .930 Qingcheng Shan 744 Qingdao 284–288 Qingdao 285 Qinghai 792–829 Qinghai 790 Qinghai–Lhasa railway 879 Qinghai Lake .816 Qingyan 641 Qingyuan 512–515 Qingyuan Shan 472 Qiongzhu Temple 671 Qiqihar 189 Qu Yuan 412, 769 Quanzhou .25, 470–474 Quanzhou 470 Qufu 300–308 Qufu 301 Qutan Temple .814 Qutang Gorge 768 R rabies .883 radio 49 rafting 468 railways 36–38, 879 Ramoche .891 Rape of Nanking, the .312 Red River Valley 675 red-crowned cranes 189 Repartee for Two .176 Riyue Bay 532 Rongbuk Monastery .918 Rongjiang .628 Rongjiang, Sanjiang to 626 Ruili 711–713 Ruili 712 Ruili–Myanmar border 713 S safety 52 Saga 919 Sakya 915–917 Salar minority 803 salt 756 Samye 900–902 Sanjiang 625 Sanjiang to Rongjiang 626 Sanxingdui 742 Sanya 532–537 Sanya 534 Sanya Bay .533 Sayram Lake 840 scams 52 scuba diving 536 sculpture .949 Sera Monastery 896 Seven Stars Park .523 Shaanxi 197–219 Shaanxi 194–195 Shamian Island 492 Shamian Island 493 Shandong 281–308 Shandong 280 SHANGHAI 344–387 Shanghai 350–351 Central Shanghai 354–355 Shanghai and around 348 Shanghai metro 375 1933 Millfun .369 on the Bund 356 on the Bund 356 accommodation .376–379 acrobatics 385 airports 373 arrival 373 art 371, 385 art galleries 371 Arts and Crafts Museum 364 Baiyunguan Temple 360 Bank of China (BOC) .356 banks 387 bars .383 Botanical Gardens 373 Bund, the 26, 352–357 bus stations (long distance) .374 buses (city) 376 cafés 379 Century Avenue 368 Century Park 368 Chenxiangge Nunnery 360 China Art Palace .368 cinemas .385 clubs .384 Confucius Temple 361 consulates 387 Cool Docks 361 cruises 353 Customs House .356 Dajing Pavilion 361 drinking .384 Duolun Lu 370 eating 379–383 entertainment 385 Fairmont Peace Hotel .353 film 385 football 387 Fuxing Park .363 history 349 History Museum .366 Hongkou .369 hospitals 387 Huangpu Park 353 Huangpu River cruises 353 Huxin Ting teahouse .360 Jing’an Temple 359 Jinmao Tower 366 Long Bar 357 Long Museum (Pudong) .369 Long Museum (West Bund) 372 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs 372 Longhua Temple 372 Lu Xun Memorial Hall .370 Lu Xun Park 370 Lu Xun’s Former Residence 370 Lujiazui .365 Lupu Bridge .373 markets, fake .387 Moganshan Art District 371 music 385 Nanjing Dong Lu 357 Nanjing Lu 357–359 Nanjing Xi Lu .358 Natural History Museum .359 nightlife .384 Number 18 The Bund .356 Old City 359–36 Oriental Pearl Tower 366 parks 353, 358, 363, 368, 370 post offices 387 Power Station of Art .361 Propaganda Poster Centre 364 PSB 387 Pudong 365–369 Renmin Park .358 Renmin Square 357 restaurants 380–383 Rockbund Art Museum 353 Ruijin Guesthouse 363 Science and Technology Museum 368 Shanghai Museum 358 Shanghai Post Museum .352 Shanghai Tower 366 Shikumen Open House Museum 362 shopping .386 Song Qingling’s Former Residence 364 sport .387 subway .374 Sun Yatsen’s Former Residence 363 taxis .376 The former French Concession 361–365 theatres 385 Tianzifang 363 tourist information 376 tours 376 train station 374 transport .374 travel agents 376 Urban Planning Exhibition Hall 358 visa extensions 387 Waibaidu Bridge .352 Waldorf Astoria Hotel .356 West Bund 372 World Financial Centre 366 Wukang Lu 364 INDEX Xintiandi 362 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral 371 Yu Yuan 360 Yufo Temple .370 Yuz Museum 373 Zhou Enlai’s Former Residence 363 Shangri-La 697–701 Shangri-La 698 Shangri-La, Lijiang to 696 Shanhaiguan 144–146 Shanhaiguan 145 Shanxi 237–257 Shanxi 194–195 Shaolin Kung Fu 264 Shaolin Temple 263–265 Shaoshan 436 Shaoxing 335–339 Shaoxing 336 Shaoxing wine 337 Shaping 685 Shapotou 221 Shaxi .686 She Shan .389 Shen Congwen 442 Shennongjia Forest Reserve 424–426 Shenyang 170–174 Shenyang 171 Shenzhen 506–512 Shenzhen 508–509 Shenzhen airport .509 Shexian 406 Shibao Shan 686 Shibaozhai 768 Shidong .648 Shigatse 911–915 Shigatse 912 Shigu 694 Shimei Bay 532 Shipton’s Arch .854 Shishi 472 Shitou Zhai 653 shopping 50 Shuanglang 685 Shuanglin Temple .255 Shunan Bamboo Sea 759 Siberia border crossing 186 Sichuan 724–785 Sichuan and Chongqing 728–729 Sichuan opera 741 Sichuanese cooking 730 Sidong Gou 642 siheyuan 748 Silk Road .791 Silk Road Sand Dunes 18 Simatai 123 Singing Sand Dune 827 Sino-Japanese War Museum 128 Sisters’ Meal festival 20 skiing 177, 187 smoking 47 Song Shan 263–266 Songpan 770–772 Songyang Academy 265 Songyue Temple Pagoda 266 South China Sea Islands 538 Southern Great Wall (Guizhou) 649 Southern Great Wall (Hunan) 443 spitting 47 sports 51 spring festival 49 Stilwell, Joseph 764 Stone Forest 672 studying in China 55 Subashi 850 Sui dynasty 927 Summer Palace 95–97 Sun Yatsen 490, 932 superstitions 942 surfing, Hainan Island 533 Suzhou 318–325 Suzhou 320 T Tagong 780 Tagong Grasslands 780 Tai Hu .325 Tai Shan 20, 296–300 Tai Shan 297 Tai’an 294–296 Tai’an 295 Taihuai 247–249 Taiping Uprising 314, 931 Taiwan 475, 934 Taiyuan 250 Taiyuan 251 Taklamakan desert crossing 861 Tang An 626 Tang dynasty .927 Tangboche Monastery 904 Tangkou 410 Tangyue arches 407 Tanzhe Temple 128 Taoism 298, 943 tap water 44 Tashkurgan 863 tea 18, 44 teaching in China 55 teahouses .734 telephones 57 television 48 temperature 12 temples 944 Tengchong 710 Tengwang Pavilion 448 Terracotta Army, the 15, 212–214 Tholing 921 Three Dynasties, the .924 Three Kingdoms, the 396, 926 Three Gorges .768 Three Gorges Dam (Chongqing) 770 Three Gorges Dam (Hubei) 424 Tian Chi (Dongbei .179 Tian Chi (Xinjiang) .836 Tian’anmen Square 73–79 Tian’anmen Square 938 Tianjin 132–141 Tianjin and Hebei 136 Tianlong 653 Tianshui 793–795 Tianshui 793 Tianyi Tomb 127 Tibet 866–921 accommodation .881 Buddhism 872 clothing .881 health 882 history 872–878 language .877 monasteries 781, 897 railway 878 tours 880 travel information 878–883 Travel Permits 878 trekking .882 Tiger Leaping Gorge 16, 695–697 time zones 58 Tingri 918 Tomb of Jingdi 214 Tomb of Mao Ling .215 Tomb of Mao Zedong 75 Tomb of Qian Ling 215 Tomb of Qin Shi Huang 214 Tomb of the Kings .905 Tomb of Wang Zhaojun 237 Tomb of Yue Fei 329 Tongli (Shanghai) 390 Tongren 808 tour agents 32 tourist information 58 tourist offices 59 tours 39 traditional Chinese medicine 947 train fares 37 trains 36–38 Trandruk Monastery 903 Trans-Manchurian train 188 Trans-Mongolian train 34 Trans-Siberian train 34 999 1000 INDEX travel insurance 54 trekking see hiking Tsetsang 902 Tsingtao beer 286 Tsurphu Monastery 906 Turpan 842–844 Turpan 842 U Underground Gallery .821 Ürümqi 830–836 Ürümqi 831 Uyghur food 835 Uyghur language .828 Uyghur minority 828 Uyghur music 856 V Vietnam border crossings .630, 667, 676 visa extensions 54 visa-free transit 54 visas 53 W walking see hiking Walnut Garden 696 Wang Family Mansion .256 Wangdangzhao 230 Wangfu Shi 616 Wanshan Archipelago .517 Wanzhou .768 war with Japan 933 Wase .685 water 44 Water Curtain Caves 796 water towns (Shanghai) 389–391 water-splashing festival 718 weather 12 weights 43 Weining 655 Weishan 679 Wenchang 530 Wenhai 694 Wenquan 410 West Lake, Hangzou 327–329 West Lake, Huizhou 515 Western Hills 125, 671 Western Xia Kingdom 225 Western Xia Mausoleums .225 Wild Man Museum 425 wine 45 wiring money 57 woman travellers 48 Wood Pagoda .246 working in China 56 Wu Gorge .769 Wu Zetian 214, 746, 927 Wuchang 416 Wudang kung fu 428 Wudang Shan 426–430 Wudang Shan 427 Wuhan 414–421 Wuhan 415 Wulong 767 Wushan 769 Wusutu Zhao .237 Wutai Shan 246–249 Wutai Shan 247 Wutun 808 Wuyi rock tea 469 Wuyi Shan Scenic Area 466–469 Wuyi Shan Scenic Area 467 Wuzhen (Shanghai) 391 Wuzhi Shan Nature Reserve 538 Wuzhiluo .695 Wuzhishan town 537 X Xi Hu 327–329 Xi Jinping 939 Xi’an 197–207 Xi’an 198 Around Xi’an 208 Downtown Xi’an 200 Xi’an Incident, the .212 Xiagei Hot Springs 701 Xiaguan 677 Xiahe 803–805 Xiahe 804 Xiamen 474–480 Xiamen 476–477 Xiangshan Park 126 Xichang 754 Xidang 703 Xidi 407 Xiding 723 Xijiang 648 Xiling Gorge 769 Xingping .616 Xining 809–813 Xining 810 Xinjiang 829–865 Xinjiang 790 Xinjiang time .830 Xinjie 675 Xiongjia Tombs 421 Xishuangbanna 714–723 Xishuangbanna 715 Xitang (Shanghai) 390 Xizhou 685 Xuan Zong 210 Xuanzang 844, 927 Xumi Shan Grottoes 219 Y Yabuli .187 Yading Scenic Area 785 Yakub Beg 829 Yalong Bay 533 Yamdrok Tso 907 Yan Miao .305 Yang Guifei 210 Yangdi 616 Yangliuqing New Year Woodblock Printing Museum 138 Yangshuo 617–621 Yangshuo 618 Yangshuo tours and activities 622 Yangzi basin 392–457 Yangzi basin 397 Yangzi cruises .769 Yangzi Gorges 769 Yangzi River 18, 768–770 Yangzi river dolphin 416 Yanji 182 Yansheng Duke 304 Yantai 282–284 Yantai 282 Yanzi Dong 674 Yarkand 857 Yarlung Valley .903 Yellow River 16, 196, 190–275, 798 Yellow River 194–195 Yellow River Merlot 226 Yengisar .857 Yi minority 755 Yibin .758 Yichang 421–424 Yichang 422 Yinchuan 222–225 Yinchuan 223 Yingxian 246 Yining 839 INDEX Yining 838 Yixian 407 Yongding 482 Younghusband Expedition 909 Yu Ling 337 Yuan dynasty .929 Yuan Shikai 932 Yuanyang rice terraces 675 Yubeng 704 Yucun .617 Yuhu .693 Yulong 693 Yulong River 623 Yulong Xue Shan .693 Yumbulakhang 904 Yungang Caves 242–244 Yungzheng 930 Yunnan 656–723 Yunnan 660–661 Yunnan border crossings 667 Yunnan, minority villages 18 Yunnan–Vietnam border 676 Yunnanese food 662 Z Zanda .921 Zengchong 628 Zhalong Nature Reserve 189 Zhalu Monastery 911 Zhangbi Castle 257 Zhangjiajie (Wulingyuan Scenic Reserve) 439–441 Zhangmu 919 Zhangye 818–820 Zhaoqing 522–525 Zhaoqing 523 Zhaoxing .626 Zhejiang 325–343 Zhejiang 280 Zhencheng Lou 482 Zheng He 930 Zhenguo Temple .256 Zhengzhou 266–270 Zhengzhou 267 Zhenyuan .649 Zhenyuan and around Kaili 647 Zhijin Caves 654 Zhongdian 697–701 Zhongdian 698 Zhongliu .624 Zhongwei 220–222 Zhongyue Miao 265 Zhou .924 Zhougong Miao 305 Zhouzhuang (Shanghai) 390 Zhuhai 516–518 Zhuhai–Macau border .517 Zhujiajiao 390 Zigong 756–758 Zigong 756 Zigui .769 Zöigê 775 Zoucheng .685 Zunyi 641 Zunyi Conference Site .642 1001 1002 MAP SYMBOLS Map symbols The symbols below are used on maps throughout the book International boundary Zoo MTR station State/province boundary Tourist office Subway Motorway Hospital Beijing subway Road Place of interest Metro Pedestrianized road Ruins Bus station/depot Steps Golf course Embassy Path Mosque Mountain peak Railway Tower Mountain range Funicular Arch Ski area Cable car Monument Bridge Ferry route Border crossing Cave Wall Fountain Mountain pass International airport Viewpoint Church Domestic airport Waterfall Building Transport stop Temple Pedestrianized area Dock Dagoba Market Spring/spa Pagoda Stadium Swimming/pool Statue Park/national park Internet café/access Museum Beach Post office Gate Pine tree Christian cemetery Listings key Accommodation Eating Jing’an Park LU NG B LU Parkson J I N Department Store G YA JU U IN L E I LU FUM Shopping X IA N Drinking/nightlife HUA Xiangyang Park U XIAN L TING LU ... – throughout the Guide, highlighted with the ★ symbol FROM TOP LAKE KARAKUL; THE JOKHANG, LHASA; DONG DRUM TOWER, ZHAOXING 14 31 THINGS NOT TO MISS 31 things not to miss It’s not possible to see... essentials, while the other suggested routes cover the trip to the deserts of the west, and China’s tropical southwestern corner GRAND TOUR This tour ticks the major boxes – historical sights,... the colossal Great Buddha at Leshan, and to ascend the holy mountain of Emei Shan; to the east, the city of Chongqing marks the start of river trips down the Yangzi, Asia’s longest river, through