The master cheesemakers of wisconsin

Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com www.Ebook777.com Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com The Master Cheesemakers o f w i s c on s i n www.Ebook777.com publication of this volume has been made possible, in part, through support from the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, Inc and the dairy farm families of Wisconsin !@ QW The Master Cheesemakers o f w i s c on s i n James Norton and Becca Dilley the university of wisconsin press Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com The University of Wisconsin Press 1930 Monroe Street, 3rd Floor Madison, Wisconsin 53711-2059 uwpress.wisc.edu Henrietta Street London wce 8lu, England Copyright © 2009 The Board of Regents of the University of Wisconsin System All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any format or by any means, digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, or conveyed via the Internet or a Web site without written permission of the University of Wisconsin Press, except in the case of brief quotations embedded in critical articles and reviews Printed in Canada Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Norton, James R The master cheesemakers of Wisconsin / James Norton and Becca Dilley p cm Includes bibliographical references and index isbn 978-0-299-23434-8 (pbk : alk paper) Cheesemakers—Wisconsin Cheese—Varieties—Wisconsin Cheesemaking—Wisconsin I Dilley, Becca II Title sf274.u6.n67 2009 637´.309775—dc22 2009009422 www.Ebook777.com To all of Wisconsin’s Master Cheesemakers whatever their century or decade -= contents !@ preface acknowledgments ix xi Introduction The Masters of Green County Bruce Workman The Buholzer Brothers JeÔ Wideman and Paul Reigle Jim Meives Steve Stettler Myron Olson and Jamie Fahrney 15 20 25 30 36 39 42 The Masters of Southwestern Wisconsin Tom Torkelson Sid Cook Robert Wills Doug Peterson Jake NiÔenegger Thomas Jenny Richard Glick Gary Grossen 49 54 61 65 69 72 75 78 81 The Masters of Southeastern Wisconsin Joe Widmer Kurt Heitmann and Ken DeMaa 85 89 95 JeÔ Mattes Ken Nett Kerry Henning 100 103 106 The Masters of Northeastern Wisconsin Gianni ToÔolon Duane Petersen Larry Steckbauer Jim Demeter and Daniel Stearns Gregg Palubicki Terry Lensmire Carie Wagner and Tom Blauert Roger Krohn David Metzig 111 115 120 123 126 131 134 137 142 145 The Masters of Northwestern Wisconsin Scott Erickson Richard Wold Randy LaGrander Bruce Willis and Steven Tollers John Moran Vern Kind David Lindgren 149 153 157 160 164 169 172 175 Other Masters 179 glossary of cheesemaking terms wisconsin cheese on the web sources index 183 185 187 189 Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com preface !@ This book was born from more than a mere love of Wisconsin cheese It also sprang from a deep-seated conviction that Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers would be incredibly fun guys to get to know The very phrase “Wisconsin cheesemaker” is one of those rare, perfect, euphonious expressions that leave you feeling inexplicably pleased after you hear them What’s a Wisconsin cheesemaker like? Without having met any, you might say “jolly,” or “hard-working,” or “smelling somewhat of cooked milk.” And all of these were true, more or less, of the various folks we met But it was a search for other attributes—the subtle, intuitive grasp of math and biology, the Werce dedication to consistent quality in a profession dominated by Wckle and living ingredients, and a simultaneous dedication to tradition and progress It was that search that drove this book That search, in turn, led us to spend four months crisscrossing Wisconsin in our Honda Civic to meet—on his or her home turf—every active master cheesemaker who would meet with us The fruits of those dozens of interviews, photo sessions, and cheese tastings are presented to you here, in these pages Güten Appetit! ix www.Ebook777.com A horse enjoys the arrival of spring outside of Jim Falls Other Masters !@ QW -= the authors were able to interview and photograph forty-three of the forty-four master cheesemakers active as of winter 2007–8 That leaves one active master and six other program graduates who deserve recognition Allan Scott (Saputo Cheese USA) is certiWed in low-moisture/part-skim mozzarella and provolone cheeses, and works in Saputo’s tech service group in Lena, Wisconsin Scott originally worked at a cheese plant in Kent, Illinois, but the master cheesemaker program inXuenced his decision to move up to Wisconsin to pursue his certiWcation Scott hopes to fully explore the possibilities of mozzarella by earning future certiWcations in whole-milk and reduced-fat mozzarella Walt Brandli (Babcock Hall Dairy Plant, retired) made cheese at the university’s Babcock dairy plant from 1992 until 2004, obtaining master certiWcations in brick, cheddar, baby swiss, and gouda Before going to Babcock, he operated his own cheese factory in Mauston, Wisconsin, for more than thirty years He passed away at his home in Madison on June 29, 2007, at age seventy-four Jerome Zibrowski (Mindoro Co-op Creamery, retired) mastered in the blue and gorgonzola cheeses that Mindoro became nationally famous for in the late ’90s He graduated from high school in 1984 on a Friday and was working full time at the Mindoro Co-op Creamery the following Monday, inXuenced in part by his father, who was the plant’s manager He found the transition to blue-veined cheeses initially diªcult, but he eventually mastered them with award-winning results Randy Krahenbuhl (Fair Oaks Farms of Indiana) produced an aged gouda that was selected as the Cheese and Butter Grand Champion of the 2007 World Dairy Expo A Wisconsin native, he owned and operated Monticello’s Prima Käse Cheese before moving to Indiana in 2001 Krahenbuhl was encouraged in his career by Green County cheesemaking legend Albert Deppeler, and at one time he was the only cheesemaker in the United States making traditional 180-pound wheel swiss in copper kettles He obtained master certiWcations in swiss and gouda, and he is credited with creating Sweet Swiss cheese, a sweeter, creamier variation of traditional swiss 181 182 Other Masters Bob Biddle (Swiss Valley Farms, retired) mastered in swiss and, in a CDR Dairy Pipeline article, cited his dad as a guiding inXuence “I think he forgot more about making cheese than I know,” he told the Pipeline Cheesemaking was part of Biddle’s life from an early age—he recalls watching his father make cheese from the vantage point of an unused ten-thousand-pound open vat that served as his playpen About the craft of making swiss cheese, Biddle told the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board that “striving for good eye formation, body, and Xavor can be a nerve-racking but fulWlling process.” Dan Meister (Meister Cheese Company, retired) obtained his master certiWcations for monterey jack and cheddar in 1999, having spent decades working at his family’s plant in Muscoda, Wisconsin, now on its third generation of owner-operators His family’s roots in the business date back to Grandpa Joe Meister, who started the cheesemaking dynasty in Plain, Wisconsin, in 1923 A world traveler, Meister journeyed to Europe to demonstrate cheesemaking, and, in 1997 and 1998, he accompanied his mother to Bosnia, where she regularly traveled to deliver medical supplies to refugee camps A pioneer in the repurposing of whey, Meister also founded Muscoda Protein Products Ron Sullivan (Swiss Valley Farms, retired) has a certiWcation in swiss cheese, but he no longer makes cow’s milk cheeses Sullivan had a long career at Swiss Valley Farms/Old Wisconsin Cheese, getting his start in 1981 He is one of many Wisconsin cheesemakers with ties to the Jenny family of Platteville, Wisconsin—Wfty-two-year cheesemaking veteran Clarence Jenny of the former Platteville Dairy encouraged Sullivan to get his license glossary of cheesemaking terms !@ aªnage: Simply put, the aging or Wnishing of a cheese after it has been made and pressed into shape Aªnage can require a number of steps intended to precisely manipulate temperature and humidity and the application of Xavoring, such as olive oil, wine, or cocoa powder Made and stored properly, some varieties of cheese can comfortably age for years, acquiring sharper and more complicated Xavors as time goes by annatto: A dye derived from achiote trees (from tropical regions of the Americas), used to give Wisconsin cheeses such as cheddar and colby their distinctive yellow color bloomy rind: A surface mold common to many softer cheeses, such as brie, camembert, and brillat-savarin Sometimes called blooming rind brining: The soaking of cheese in salt-saturated water, which adds Xavor, aÔects rind texture, and acts as a drying agent CDR: The Wisconsin Center for Dairy Research, a joint initiative of the University of Wisconsin and the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board CDR acts as a conduit for transmitting information between working dairymen and cheesemakers in the Weld and experts in the scientiWc world cheddaring: A labor-intensive process used to drive moisture out of cheddar curd It can be used to create either ready-to-eat cheese curds or quality aged cheddar By heating, stacking, cutting, restacking, recutting, and Wnally milling the initial cheddar curd, much of the whey is removed from the Wnished cheese co-op: Typically a joint operating agreement between a group of dairy farmers and a cheesemaker For example, the cheesemaker might make the cheese and own the equipment, while the dairy farmers own the cheese plant and supply the milk, sharing the proWts and risk according to a predetermined formula curd: The bulk of the proteins and fat found in milk, coagulated into a semisolid mass that is the basis for most kinds of cheese Further along in the process, if the cheesemaker chooses to cheddar, mill, and salt the curd, it becomes cheese curds, which are sold as a snack food make: Short for “make procedure,” the overall method used for making a given cheese microfauna: A generic term for the various bacteria, molds, and viruses that can either hinder or assist the cheesemaking process 183 184 Glossary of Cheesemaking Terms mixed milk: A cheese made with more than one sort of animal milk, such as cow’s milk mixed with sheep’s milk organic milk: Milk labeled “USDA Organic” from cows that have not been treated with bovine growth hormone (BGH), which boosts production In addition, according to vague federal guidelines, the cows should have “access to pasture” and eat pesticide-free feed pasta Wlata: Italian term (literally “spun paste”) referring to a speciWc step in the manufacture of such Italian cheeses as mozzarella and provolone Heating, kneading, and stretching give the cheese its distinctive elastic and soft texture pasteurized: Milk that has been brought up to a temperature (typically 161°F) for Wfteen seconds, high enough and long enough to kill the existing bacteria pH: The measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution Because acidity can have a crucial impact on the quality of the Wnal product, makers carefully monitor and control the pH of their cheese as it’s made phage: Short for “bacteriophage,” a kind of virus that infects bacteria Phage can neutralize a starter culture and shut down the making of a vat of cheese rBGH: Synthetically produced bovine growth hormone used to boost milk production in cows rBGH is controversial for health risks it presents to animals as well as potential health risks to milk consumers rennet: An enzyme, typically derived from a calf stomach or a plant such as thistle, that causes milk to separate into curds and whey rind: The exterior of a cheese Rinds are often edible, particularly in softer cheeses smear: A bacterial broth used to ripen cheese during the aging process starter culture: Bacteria cultivated to consume and transform various components (such as sugars and proteins) of the milk (and cheese) during the cheesemaking process, thereby giving cheeses their distinctive Xavor and texture stirred curd: A cheesemaking method that typically uses an automated metal stirring device to agitate the curd It’s one of the essential processes for making many kinds of cheese, and in cheddar speciWcally it can be used as a stand-in for traditional cheddaring trier: A T-shaped stainless steel tool used to take long sample plugs out of wheels or blocks of cheese washed rind: A type of cheese that is, during the aging process, washed with a solution of water and bacteria to promote ripening and Xavor development whey: The watery, still-protein-rich element of milk cast oÔ after the curd is coagulated Whey has many uses, such as protein supplements or pet food additives wisconsin cheese on the web !@ Center for Dairy Research: http://www.cdr.wisc.edu/ Information on dairy courses, a newsletter (Dairy Pipeline), and brief bios of the CDRs talented staÔ Cheese Underground: http://www.cheeseunderground.blogspot.com/ Frequently updated posts featuring special events and classes, detailing plant openings, proWling noteworthy new cheeses, and generally exploring the progress of the Wisconsin dairy industry Dairy Business Innovation Center: http://www.dbicusa.org/ A deep resource for specialty and artisan dairy entrepreneurs Master Cheesemaker Book Blog: http://mastercheesemakerbook.wordpress.com/ Expanded material uncovered during the researching of this book, including photos, sound clips, news reports, cheese-tasting notes, and more Wisconsin Cheesemakers Association: http://www.wischeesemakersassn.org/ A good place to visit for cheese contest results and scheduling information Wisconsin Dairy Artisan Network: http://www.wisconsindairyartisan.org/ A place for current and future dairy artisans to obtain help with craft, business, and regulatory questions Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Directory: http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/wisconsin/masters/default.aspx Searchable directory with current capsule biographies and photos of Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers, plus background on the program itself Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board: http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/ A veritable treasure trove of cheese information, including tour guides, cheese pairings, a cheese of the week, cheese videos, and more 185 Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com sources !@ In addition to conducting the more than Wfty interviews on which this book is primarily based, the authors consulted numerous periodicals and the following publications: Apps, Jerry Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition Amherst, WI: Amherst Press, 1998 Federal Writers’ Project The WPA Guide to Wisconsin New York: Duell, Sloane, and Pearce, 1941 Freeman, Sarah The Real Cheese Companion London: Time Warner, 1998 Hintz, Martin, and Pam Percy Wisconsin Cheese: A Cookbook and Guide to the Cheeses of Wisconsin Guilford, CT: ThreeForks, 2008 Hoard’s Dairyman: The National Dairy Farm Magazine Online at http://hoards.com/history/chronology.html Jenkins, Steven Cheese Primer New York: Workman Publishing, 1996 Lampard, Eric E The Rise of the Dairy Industry in Wisconsin: A Study in Agricultural Change, 1820–1920 Madison: State Historical Society of Wisconsin, 1963 Marquis, Vivienne, and Patricia Haskell The Cheese Book New York: Simon & Schuster, 1965 McCalman, Max, and David Gibbons Cheese: A Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best New York: Clarkson Potter, 2005 McGee, Harold On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen New York: Scribner, 2004 Selitzer, Ralph The Dairy Industry in America New York: Magazines for Industry, 1976 Wisconsin Cartographers’ Guild Wisconsin’s Past and Present: A Historical Atlas Madison: University of Wisconsin Press, 1998 187 www.Ebook777.com index !@ aªnage, 11, 58–59, 110 See also cheese and cheesemaking aging cheese See aªnage Agropur (owner of Trega Foods), 71, 113, 114, 126–30, 134–36, 142–44 Alpha, Wisconsin, 151 Alto Dairy Cooperative See Saputo American Cheese Society, 68 “American Original” cheeses, 63 Amish milk, 53, 54–56, 59, 175–76 Antigo, Wisconsin, 113, 123 Antigo Cheese Company, 125 Apps, Jerry, Arla Foods, 114, 120–22 artisanal cheese, characteristics of, 12 Associated Milk Producers, Inc., 151, 157–59 Babcock Hall, University of Wisconsin– Madison, 8, 81–83 Babcock milk fat test, 31, 146 bacterial starter, 96–97 See also cheese and cheesemaking bacteriophage, 29, 97 See also cheese and cheesemaking Bass Lake Cheese Factory, 9, 151, 153–56 Baumgartner’s Cheese Store and Tavern, Monroe, 17 BelGioioso, 114, 115–19 Biddle, Bob, 182 Black Creek, Wisconsin, 131 Blauert, Tom, 137–41 Bleu Mont Dairy, 51 blue cheese, 78–80 Bradley, Bob, 64 Brandli, Walt, 83, 181 brick cheese, 92–94 brie cheese, 72–74 Buholzer brothers, 19, 25–29, 128 Burnett Dairy Cooperative, 151, 164–67 California cheese: inferior in quality to Wisconsin cheese, 13, 77, 102, 129, 174; inferior in variety and quantity to Wisconsin cheese, camembert cheese, 72–74 Carpenter, Jeanne, 52 Carr Valley Cheese Company, 9, 51, 61–64 Carter, Dan, 52 Cedar Grove Cheese, 8, 65–68 Cedar Valley Cheese, 87, 103–5 Center for Dairy Research, 3, 4, 5–7, 11, 31, 34–35, 67, 79 Chalet Cheese Cooperative, 42–47 Chatty Belle, world’s largest talking cow, 113 189 cheddar cheese, 62, 93–94, 129, 148, 151, 169; mammoth, 106–8, 113; 640-pound blocks, 128 cheese and cheesemaking: artisanal vs industrial, 12, 22, 32, 40, 69, 89– 94, 98–99, 131, 153–54, 158–59; bacterial starter, 96–97; cheddaring, 93, 120, 151, 166; cheese trier, 42; creating new varieties, 63, 79; customer inXuence on, 106–8, 135– 36; fruit-laden, 108–9; grading of, 99; history of, in Wisconsin, 31; how to make cheese (brief overview), 11; old Italian masters of, 116; scientiWc inXuence on, 101; whey processing, 11, 161–63; Wisconsin renaissance of, 66 See also speciWc type of cheese cheese market: buyouts, recent, 71–72; distribution, 147; evolution of, 18–19, 31; instability of, 39; stores in plants, 164, 169–70 Cheese Underground blog (Jeanne Carpenter), 52, 114 chèvre, 155 Chicago Mercantile Exchange, 31 Chihuahua cheese, 36–38 Chula Vista Cheese Company, 36–38 cojack cheese, 70–71 190 colby cheese, 92–94, 151; loss of identity, 71 Cook, Sid, 53, 61–64, 75, 80 co-ops, dairy, 24, 40–41, 71 Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese, 145 crescenza-stracchino cheese, 119 curds, cheese, 169 Dairy Business Innovation Center, 52 Dairymasters, LLC, 69–71 Dairy State Cheese Company, 151 Dean, Mike, 35, 78 DeMaa, Ken, 88, 95–99 Demeter, Jim, 126–30 Denmark, Wisconsin, 113, 115 Driftless Area, 51, 53 Edelweiss Creamery, 20–24 Erickson, Scott, 153–56 Everhart, Kevin and Kim, 54 European cheesemaking, 6, 41 faarko cheese, 66 Fahrney, Jamie, 42–47 feta cheese, 26–29, 127–28 Foremost Farms USA, 10, 137–41 Fromagination, 51 Gingrich, Mike, 67–68 Glick, Gerald, 78 Glick, Richard, 53, 78–80 goat’s milk, 55–56, 58, 61, 155 See also mixed-milk cheese gorgonzola cheese, 78–80 gouda cheese, 83, 122 Granton, Wisconsin, 175 Green County: as cheese capital, 18–19; cheesemaker map, 16 Index Green County Cheese Days, 83 Greenwood Milk Products, 173 Grossen, Gary, 81–83 growth hormone, bovine, 39–40, 66 habañero jack cheese, 158 Heitmann, Kurt, 88, 95–99 Hetzel, Dan, 66 Hillsboro, Wisconsin, 78 Hoard, W D., 31 Hoard’s Dairyman, 31 Henning, Kerry, 8, 106–10, 159 Henning’s Wisconsin Cheese, 8, 87 Jaeggi, John, 5, 34, 99 jalapeño jack cheese, 158 Jenny, Thomas, 53, 75–77 Jim Falls, Wisconsin, 157 Johnson, Mark, 4, 5, 7, 99 juustoleipa, 61, 156 K&K Cheese See Pasture Pride Cheese Kaukauna, Wisconsin, 31, 120 Kickapoo Valley, Wisconsin, 55 Kiel, Wisconsin, 8, 106 Kind, Vern, 172–74 Klondike Cheese Company, 25–29, 128 Kraft, 88, 113, 123, 139 Krahenbuhl, Randy, 181 Krohn, Charles, 142 Krohn, Leo, 142–43 Krohn, Roger, 5, 142–44 Lactalis USA, 72–74 La Farge, Wisconsin, 78 LaGrander’s Hillside Dairy, 151, 160–63 Land O’Lakes, 151, 172–74 La Valle, Wisconsin, 61 Lehner, Mary, 36 Lehner, Willi, 58 Lehner, Willi Sr., 36 Lensmire, Terry, 134–36 limburger cheese, 17, 43–47 Lindgren, David, 4, 175–77 Little Chute, Wisconsin, 113 Living Machine, 65, 67, 68 Luchsinger, John, 17 Luxemburg, Wisconsin, 142 Lynn Dairy, 4, 175–77 Madison, Wisconsin, 51, 67, 81, 165 Maple Leaf Cheese, 30–35 Master Cheesemaker Program See Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Program Mattes, JeÔ, 100102 Mauston, Wisconsin, 61 May, Renee, 139 McNaughton, Neville, 52 Meister, Dan, 182 Meister Cheese Company, 182 Meives, Jim, 36–38 Metzig, David, 4, 114, 145–48 Mindoro, Wisconsin, 79 Mindoro Co-op Creamery, 181 mixed-milk cheese, 58, 61, 66, 75 Monroe, Wisconsin, 17, 19, 82 Moran, John, 169–71 mozzarella cheese, 104, 143–44 Mullins cheese plant, 70 multigenerational cheesemaking, 26, 160–63, 171 Nachreiner, Beth, 66 National Cheese Exchange, 4, 31 191 Index Natural Valley Cheese (Pasture Pride Cheese), 5460 Neillsville, Wisconsin, 13, 113 Nett, JeÔ, 104 Nett, Ken, 87, 1035 NiÔenegger, Jake, 53, 7274 Northeastern Wisconsin, cheesemaker map, 112 Northwestern Wisconsin, cheesemaker map, 150 queso blanco, 36 See also Chihuahua cheese Old Country Cheese See Pasture Pride Cheese Old Fashioned (restaurant), The, 51 Olson, Myron, 42–47 Olson, Norm, 31 Saputo Cheese USA (formerly Alto Dairy Cooperative), 71, 88, 95–99, 131–33 Sartori Foods, 101, 123–25 SarVecchio cheese, 125 Scott, Allan, 181 Selitzer, Ralph, 113 Sheboygan Falls, Wisconsin, 31 sheep’s milk, 58, 77, 156 See also mixedmilk cheese Somerset, Wisconsin, 9, 153 Sommer, Dean, 11, 99 Southeastern Wisconsin, cheesemaker map, 86 Southwestern Wisconsin, cheesemaker map, 50 Smukowski, Marianne, Spencer, Wisconsin, 172 Stearns, Daniel, 126–30 Steckbauer, Larry, 113, 123–25 Steinbeck, John, 13 Steinwand Factory, 151 Stettler, Steve, 39–41 Steve’s Cheese, 113 Stewart, Martha, 80 Stravecchio cheese See SarVecchio cheese string cheese, 104–5, 146 Palubicki, Gregg, 131–33 parmesan cheese, 101, 118, 124–25 pasture-grazed cows, 24, 58, 68, 133 Pasture Pride Cheese (Natural Valley Cheese), 54–60 Path, Jim, 6, 10, 34, 87, 155 pepato cheese See peppercorn cheddar cheese peppercorn cheddar cheese, 106 Petersen, Duane, 120–22 Peterson, Doug, 53, 69–71 phage See bacteriophage Philip Morris, 124 pizza, 143–44 Plain, Wisconsin, 8, 65–66 Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese, 67–68 Plymouth, Wisconsin, 4, 31 Prairie Hill cheese plant, 81, 83 probiotic cheese See yogurt cheese process cheese, 87, 88; Pabst-ett process cheese, 88; Velveeta, 88 Random Lake, Wisconsin, 103 Reigle, Paul, 30–35 Renter, Dorothy, 126 Rizzi, Mauro, 114 Roth, Felix, 22 Roth Käse, 22 Rudolph, Wisconsin, 9, 169 Sullivan, Ron, 182 swiss cheese, 22 Swiss Colony, 17, 82 Swiss immigration, 18 Swiss Valley Farms, 78, 182 Theresa, Wisconsin, ToÔolon, Gianni, 11519 Tollers, Steven, 164–67 Torkelson, Tom, 31, 53, 54–60, 80 touring cheese plants, 8–9 Travels with Charley (Steinbeck), 13 Trega Foods, 71, 113, 114, 126–30, 134–36, 142–44 trier, cheese, 42 See also cheese and cheesemaking Union Star Cheese Factory, 4, United States Championship Cheese Contest, 177 United States Department of Agriculture, 93–94 Uplands Cheese Company, 51 V&V Supremo, 36 Velveeta See process cheese Wagner, Carie, 10, 137–41 Walter V Price Cheese Research Institute, 31 Warner Creek Cheese, 78 WendorÔ, Bill, 7, 64 Weyauwega, Wisconsin, 127 whey, 11, 161–63 See also cheese and cheesemaking Wideman, JeÔ, 18, 3035 Widmer, Joe, 8, 8994 Widmer, John, 89–91 Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com 192 Widmer’s Cheese Cellars, 8, 87, 89–94 “wild” milk, 32, 104 Willis, Bruce, 164–67 Wills, Robert, 8, 53, 65–68 Wisconsin Cheesemaker License, 6; “limburger license,” 47 Wisconsin Dairymen’s Association, 3, 31 Wisconsin Dairy State Cheese Company, Wisconsin Dells See Driftless Area Index Wisconsin Farmers Union Specialty Cheese Company, Montfort, 70 Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Program, 5–7, 29, 31, 34–35, 64, 80, 103, 167 Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, 5–6, 31, 51 Wold, Richard, 157–59 work ethic, cheesemakers’, 9–11, 20, 30–31, 77, 81–83, 120, 163, 165–66 Workman, Bruce, 19, 20–24, 26, 167 www.Ebook777.com World Championship Cheese Contest, 13, 51, 110, 131 World Dairy Expo, 131 WPA Guide to Wisconsin, 51, 113 yogurt cheese, 34 Zibrowski, Jerome, 181 Zittau, Wisconsin, 9, 114, 145 ... up with the absurd hours, the heavy lifting, the economic pressure, and the smell of milk on their clothes and hair are the kind of people who think nothing of going a little bit out of their way... What master cheesemakers have in common, regardless of the size of their plants, is a soup-to-nuts understanding of their product, from the silage or grass eaten by the cows to the Wnished, often... families of Wisconsin !@ QW The Master Cheesemakers o f w i s c on s i n James Norton and Becca Dilley the university of wisconsin press Free ebooks ==> www.Ebook777.com The University of Wisconsin