Textbook of dermatology

Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology Series in Cosmetic and Laser Therapy Series Editors Nicholas J Gary P Lask, and David J Goldberg Robert Baran and Howard Maibach, Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fifth Edition, ISBN 9781482223934 Philippe Deprez, Textbook of Chemical Peels, Second Edition: Superficial, Medium, and Deep Peels in Cosmetic Practice, ISBN 9781482223934 Jenny Kim, Gary Lask, and Andrew Nelson, Comprehensive Aesthetic Rejuvenation: A Regional Approach, ISBN 9780415458948 David J Goldberg and Alexander L Berlin, Disorders of Fat and Cellulite: Advances in Diagnosis and Treatment, ISBN 9780415477000 Neil S Sadick, Paul J Carniol, Deborshi Roy, and Luitgard Wiest, Illustrated Manual of Injectable Fillers: A Technical Guide to the Volumetric Approach to Whole Body Rejuvenation, ISBN 9780415476447 Kenneth Beer, Mary P Lupo, and Vic A Narurkar, Cosmetic Bootcamp Primer: Comprehensive Aesthetic Management, ISBN 9781841846989 Anthony Benedetto, Botulinum Toxins in Clinical Aesthetic Practice, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415476362 Robert Baran and Howard I Maibach, Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology, Fourth Edition, ISBN 9781841847009 Neil Sadick, Diane Berson, Mary P Lupo, and Zoe Diana Draelos, Cosmeceutical Science in Clinical Practice, ISBN 9780415471145 Paul Carniol and Gary Monheit, Aesthetic Rejuvenation Challenges and Solutions: A Global Perspective, ISBN 9780415475600 Avi Shai, Robert Baran, Howard I Maibach, Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415467186 Benjamin Ascher, Marina Landau, and Bernard Rossi, Injection Treatments in Cosmetic Surgery, ISBN 9780415386517 David J Goldberg, Laser Hair Removal, Second Edition, ISBN 9780415414128 Paul J Carniol and Neil S Sadick, Clinical Procedures in Laser Skin Rejuvenation, ISBN 9780415414135 C William Hanke, Gerhard Sattler, and Boris Sommer, Textbook of Liposuction, ISBN 9781841845326 David J Goldberg, Fillers in Cosmetic Dermatology, ISBN 9781841845098 Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology Fifth Edition Edited by Robert Baran, MD Nail Disease Center Cannes, France Howard I Maibach, MD Department of Dermatology University of California San Francisco, School of Medicine San Francisco, California, U.S.A CRC Press Taylor & Francis Group 6000 Broken Sound Parkway NW, Suite 300 Boca Raton, FL 33487-2742 © 2017 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC CRC Press is an imprint of Taylor & Francis Group, an Informa business No claim to original U.S Government works Printed on acid-free paper International Standard Book Number-13: 978-1-4822-5734-2 (Pack - Book and Ebook) This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources While all reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, neither the author[s] nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that may be made The publishers wish to make clear that any views or opinions expressed in this book by individual editors, authors or contributors are personal to them and not necessarily reflect the views/opinions of the publishers The information or guidance contained in this book is intended for use by medical, scientific or health-care professionals and is provided strictly as a supplement to the medical or other professional’s own judgement, their knowledge of the patient’s medical history, relevant manufacturer’s instructions and the appropriate best practice guidelines Because of the rapid advances in medical science, any information or advice on dosages, procedures or diagnoses should be independently verified The reader is strongly urged to consult the relevant national drug formulary and the drug companies’ and device or material manufacturers’ printed instructions, and their websites, before administering or utilizing any of the drugs, devices or materials mentioned in this book This book does not indicate whether a particular treatment is appropriate or suitable for a particular individual Ultimately it is the sole responsibility of the medical professional to make his or her own professional judgements, so as to advise and treat patients appropriately The authors and publishers have also attempted to trace the copyright holders of all material reproduced in this publication and apologize to copyright holders if permission to publish in this form has not been obtained If any copyright material has not been acknowledged please write and let us know so we may rectify in any future reprint Except as permitted under U.S Copyright Law, no part of this book may be reprinted, reproduced, transmitted, or utilized in any form by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying, microfilming, and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without written permission from the publishers For permission to photocopy or use material electronically from this work, please access www.copyright.com (http://www.copyright.com/) or contact the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978-750-8400 CCC is a not-for-profit organization that provides licenses and registration for a variety of users For organizations that have been granted a photocopy license by the CCC, a separate system of payment has been arranged Trademark Notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Contributors ix Section I: Skin Science and Parameters Skin Physiology and Gender Ethel Tur Climatic Influence on Cosmetic Skin Parameters 16 Mathias Rohr and Andreas Schrader Transepidermal Water Loss 28 Jan Kottner and Annika Vogt Nail Penetration 32 Rania Elkeeb, Xiaoying Hui, and Howard I Maibach Section II: Pharmacology of Cosmetic Products and Ingredients Sensitive Skin: New Findings Yield New Insights 45 Miranda A Farage and Howard I Maibach Organic Acids with Novel Functions: Hydroxy, Bionic, N-acetylamino Acids and N-acylpeptide Derivatives 56 Ruey J Yu and Eugene J Van Scott Retinyl Propionate and Related Retinoids 71 John E Oblong Idebenone (Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone) 76 Birgit A Neudecker, Falko Diedrich, and Howard I Maibach Antioxidants 80 Frank Dreher 10 Topical Retinol: An Efficacious Solution for Improvement of Main Photodamage Signs 88 Christiane Bertin and Thierry Oddos 11 Applications of Non-Denatured Soy in Skin Care 93 Jue-Chen Liu, Jeff Wu, and Miri Seiberg 12 Kinetin 113 Stanley B Levy 13 Urokinase and Plasmin in Dry Skin and Skin Aging 117 Yuji Katsuta 14 Ceramides and the Skin 123 David J Moore, Clive R Harding, and Anthony V Rawlings vi CONTENTS 15 4-Hexyl-1,3-Phenylenediol, an NF-kB Inhibitor, Improving Clinical Signs of Aging 143 Cécilia Brun, Simarna Kaur, Michael D Southall, Christiane Bertin, and Thierry Oddos 16 Perfumes 148 Jeanne Duus Johansen 17 Alternative and Natural Treatments in Dermatology 153 Daniel Oxman and Cheryl Levin Section III: Non-Pathological Skin Treatments 18 Skin Care Products for Normal, Dry, and Greasy Skin 167 Christine Lafforgue, Céline Try, Laurence Nicod, and Philippe Humbert 19 Self-Tanning Products 174 Stanley B Levy 20 Astringents, Masks, and Ancillary Skin Care Products 178 Zoe Diana Draelos 21 Regulatory Overview of Cosmeceuticals 182 Lauren A Hassoun, Howard I Maibach, and Raja K Sivamani 22 Photodamage: Protection 185 Laurent Meunier 23 Photodamage and Skin Cancer: How Successful Are Sunscreens as a Means of Prevention? 193 Xinyi Du and Douglas Maslin 24 Photodamage: Protection and Reversal with Topical Antioxidants 199 Karen E Burke 25 Actinic Keratosis 214 Brigitte Dréno 26 Safety of UV Nail Lamps as Used in Professional Nail Salons 220 Douglas Schoon Section IV: Specific Locations and Conditions 27 Hair Care 227 John Gray 28 Dandruff and Seborrheic Dermatitis 248 James R Schwartz and Thomas L Dawson, Jr 29 The Periorbital Wrinkle 259 Martin R Green 30 Cosmetology for Normal Nails 264 Robert Baran and Douglas Schoon 31 Cosmetics for Abnormal and Pathological Nails 276 Douglas Schoon and Robert Baran 32 Evaluating Hand and Body Lotions 287 F Anthony Simion 33 Anticellulite Products and Therapies 308 Enzo Berardesca CONTENTS 34 Therapy of Telangiectasia and Varicose Veins and Their Complications 312 Christian R Halvorson, Robert A Weiss, and Margaret A Weiss 35 Management of Hirsutism and Hypertrichosis 321 Ralph M Trüeb and Daisy Kopera 36 Pigmentation: Dyschromia 330 Thierry Passeron and Jean-Paul Ortonne 37 Treatment of Keloids 349 Joshua E Lane 38 Keratolytic Treatment of Acne 360 Brigitte Dréno 39 Hidradenitis Suppurativa 369 Emil Knudsen List and Gregor B.E Jemec Section V: Specific Groups 40 Age-Related Changes in Male Skin 377 Stefanie Lübberding and Nils Krüger 41 Ethnic Cosmetics 384 Enzo Berardesca 42 Ethnic Variation in Hair 390 Nina Otberg 43 Ethnic Differences in Skin Properties 398 Rishu Gupta and Howard I.Maibach 44 Changes in Female Hair with Aging: New Understanding and Measures 413 Paradi Mirmirani, R Scott Youngquist, and Thomas L Dawson, Jr 45 Menopause, Skin, and Cosmetology 424 Michel Faure and Evelyne Drapier-Faure Section VI: Cosmetological Treatments 46 Mesotherapy 431 Maria Pia De Padova, Gabriella Fabbrocini, Sara Cacciapuoti, and Antonella Tosti 47 Microneedles and Cosmetics 436 Raja K Sivamani and Howard I Maibach 48 Photodynamic Therapy in Dermatology 442 Jacques Savary 49 Cosmetic Cryotherapy 450 Eshini Perera, Poorna Weerasinghe, and Rodney Sinclair 50 Botulinum Toxins 459 Doris Hexsel 51 Soft Tissue Augmentation 473 Kathleen Sikora Viscusi and C William Hanke 52 Bioelectricity and Its Application in Cosmetic Dermatology 481 Ying Sun and Jue-Chen Liu 53 Chemical Peels 498 Philippe Deprez vii viii CONTENTS 54 Lasers and Light Sources for Vascular and Pigmented Components of Photoaging 510 Anne Marie Mahoney and Robert A Weiss 55 Nonablative Laser Rejuvenation 519 Christian R Halvorson, Karen L Beasley, and Robert A Weiss 56 Cryolipolysis for Non-Surgical Fat Reduction 535 Christine C Dierickx Section VII: Assessment Techniques 57 Using the Behind-the-Knee Test to Evaluate Lotion Transfer from Products to Skin 551 Miranda A Farage 58 Assessing the Efficacy of Moisturizers 561 Whitney Hannon Index 585 Contributors Robert Baran Nail Disease Center, Cannes, France Karen L Beasley Department of Dermatology, University of Maryland School of Medicine, Baltimore, Maryland; and Maryland Laser, Skin & Vein Institute, Hunt Valley, Maryland Enzo Berardesca San Gallicano Dermatological Institute, Rome, Italy Christiane Bertin Johnson & Johnson Group of Consumer Companies, Skin Care Research Institute, Issy les Moulineaux, France Cécilia Brun Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, Johnson & Johnson Santé Beauté France, Val de Reuil, France Karen E Burke Department of Dermatology, The Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, New York Sara Cacciapuoti Department of Dermatology, University of Naples, Napoli, Italy Thomas L Dawson, Jr Agency for Science, Technology, and Research (A*STAR), Institute of Medical Biology, Singapore Philippe Deprez Falko Diedrich Clinica HERA, Empuriabrava, Spain Private practice, München, Germany Christine C Dierickx Skinperium Clinic, Boom, Belgium Zoe Diana Draelos Department of Dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine, Durham, North Carolina Frank Dreher California Brigitte Dréno Nantes, France Xinyi Du NEOCUTIS, a Division of MERZ North America, Inc., San Mateo, Department of Dermatology, University Hospital Hotel Dieu, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, United Kingdom Rania Elkeeb Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco, San Francisco, California Gabriella Fabbrocini Italy Department of Dermatology, University of Naples, Napoli, Miranda A Farage The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio Evelyne Drapier-Faure Michel Faure Edouard Herriot Hospital, Lyon, France Department of Dermatology, University of Orléans, Orléans, France John Gray Procter & Gamble Technical Centres Limited, Egham, United Kingdom 580 TEXTBOOK OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY Table 58.12 Optical Techniques for Characterization of Skin Properties (Continued) Technique Machines/ Developer Principles Advantages Disadvantages In vivo confocal Raman microspectroscopy Caspers (1998) (110); (2001) (111) In vivo optical method based on inelastic light scatter rather than absorption (vibrational spectroscopy) Skin Raman spectrum are measured; signal is analyzed to extract information Expensive, limited availability In vivo optical coherence tomography (102,109) (OCT) Fercher (1988) (117); Huang (1991) (101) Ellipsometry Jasperson (1969) (83) Changes in refractive index can be used to monitor hydration status, effect of moisturizers Topical agents may cause a change in reflectivity Very indirect method Skin critical surface tension (CST) Jacobi (1949); Schneider (1951); Ginn (1968); El Khyat (1996) (84) Technique based on the Michelson principle of inferometry OCT uses light in the near infrared range Gel interface couples probe to skin Light source (LED) emits a broad band light into fiber; coupler directs one portion into reference arm Diverging light beams are relayed via both objectives to the skin probe and reflecting mirror Detector signals are converted from optical to electrical signals Thickness measurements are calculated using software Monochromatic light passes through a plane polarizer oriented at 45° with respect to the incidence plane Polarizer output is fed into a photoelastic modulator composed of a piezoelastic crystal oscillating at a particular frequency Output of the modulator passes through collimater side of ellipsometer to skin of interest Reflected light goes to telescopic side of spectrometer and is directed through a second polarizer to a photomultiplier tube (PMT) PMT output and reference signal enter a lock-in amplifier, which gives intensity readings for the ellipsometric parameters A computer program calculates the refractive index Measures refractive index Droplets of standard liquids applied to skin and viewed under microscope Critical surface tension can be calculated using Zisman technique; also can measure wettability Depth resolution of micrometers; able to measure concentration profiles; quantitatively and qualitatively accurate when compared with gold standard x-ray microanalysis Only in vivo method to analyze skin molecular composition as a function of distance to skin surface with similar detail and resolution Better resolution than MRI or high resolution ultrasound; resolution to cellular level = 10–15 micrometers Maximum imaging depth is 1.2–2 mm Lateral resolution is 15 micrometers Real time imaging Fiberoptic systems allow better access to normally difficult to access areas of skin; non-invasive so allows monitoring of inflammation over time; can objectively monitor treatment effect Can quantify surface energy phenomenon resulting from sweat, serum, and emulsion application as well as interactions Can quantify wettability Requires some skill on the part of the operator Expensive; limited availability; not good enough resolution to judge grade of melanocytic tumors; axial and lateral resolution is inferior to CSLM; allows visualization of architectural changes but not single cells Only able to image stratum corneum on palms and soles due to increased thickness ASSESSING THE EFFICACY OF MOISTURIZERS CONCLUSIONS There are multiple challenges facing the clinician who wishes to understand the scientific basis behind moisturizer efficacy claims, including access to information, understanding the information, and making sure the study design and technologies used are valid There is an urgent need to perform meta-analyses (quantitative and/or qualitative) of the moisturizer studies categorized by study type, bioengineering technique, ingredients, and clinical population in order to have more clinically relevant information on the efficacy of moisturizers For those interested in exploring the topic of moisturizers or non-invasive bioengineering techniques more profoundly, some textbook and journal references have been listed in the Additional Reading section REFERENCES Grove GL Noninvasive techniques for assessing moisturizers In: Waggoner C, ed Clinical Safety and Efficacy testing of Cosmetics New York: Marcel Dekker, 1990; pp 121–48 Serup J How to choose and use non-invasive methods In: Serup J, Jemec GBE, Grove G, eds Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and The Skin Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2006; pp 9–13 Swanbeck G Carbamide and other active substances in moisturizers Abstract of paper presented at the Regional Symposium on Rationales behind Moisturizers in Dermatology, Copenhagen, Denmark, June 1989 Bioeng Skin 1988; 4:383 Loden M, Lindberg M The influence of a single application of different moisturizers on the skin capacitance Acta Derm Venerol 1991; 71:79–82 Borroni G, Zaccone C, Vignati G Dynamic measurements In: Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, eds Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1994; pp 217–22 Stab F, Sauermann G, Hoppe U Evaluation of moisturizers In: Wilhelm KP, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, eds Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1997; pp 315–30 Barel AO Product testing: moisturizers In: Wilhelm KP, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, eds Bioengineering of the Skin: Skin Surface Imaging and Analysis Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2002; pp 241–56 Marks R Methods to evaluate the effects of skin surface modifiers In: Frost P, Horwitz SN, eds Principles of Cosmetics for the Dermatologist St Louis, MO: CV Mosby, 1982; pp 50–8 Gabard B Testing the efficacy of moisturizers In: Elsner P, Berardesca E, Maibach HI, eds Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1994; pp. 147–70 10 Agner T, Held E Moisturizers: Evidence for efficacy In: Maibach HI, Bashir SJ, McKibbon A, eds Evidence Based Dermatology 1st edition Hamilton, Ontario, Canada: Decker, 2002; pp 233–43 11 Hannon W, Maibach HI Efficacy of moisturizers assessed through bioengineering techniques In: Baran R, Maibach HI, eds Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology 3rd edition London: Informa Health Care, 2004; pp 573–612 12 Jemec B Inherent capacitance of moisturizer creams: A source of false positive results Skin Pharmacol App Skin Physiol 2000; 13:182–7 13 Sivamani R, Wu G, Maibach HH, Gitis NV Tribological studies on skin: Measurement of the coefficient of friction, “In: Serup J, Jemec GBE, Grove G, eds Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and The Skin Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2006: pp 215–24 14 Agache P Twistometry measurements of skin elasticity In: Serup J, Jemec GBE, Grove G, eds Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and The Skin Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2006: pp. 601–16 15 Yokota M, Maibach HI Moisturizer effect on irritant dermatitis: An overview Evidence on preventing and treating irritant dermatitis Contact Dermatitis 2006; 55:65–72 581 16 Fluhr J, Cavallotti C, Berardesca E Emollients, moisturizers and keratolytic agents in psoriasis Clin Dermatol 2008; 26:380–6 17 Crowther JM, Matts PJ Measuring water gradients using confocal Raman microscopy In: Rawlings AV, Leyden JJ, eds Skin Moisturization New York: Informa Health Care, 2009; pp. 427–31 18 Crozier K, MacDonald S Effective skin care regimes for term newborn Evidence-Based Midwifery 2010; 8:128–35 19 Bartels NG, Scheufele R, Prosch F, Schink T, Proquitte H, Wauer RR, Blume-Peytavi U Effect of standardized skin-care regimens on neonatal barrier function in different body areas Pediatr Dermatol 2010; 27:1–8 20 Bauer A, Schmitt J, Bennett C, Coenraads PJ, Elsner P, English J, Williams HC Interventions for preventing occupational irritant hand dermatitis Cochrane Database Sys Rev 2010; 6:Art No: CD004414 DOI:10.1002/14651858.CD004414.pub2 21 Hon KLE, Leung AKE Use of moisturizers in patients with atopic dermatitis In: Loden M, Maibach HI, eds Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome The Art and Science of Moisturizers New York, NY: Springer, 2012; pp 59–76 22 Loden M Effects of moisturizers on epidermal barrier function Clin Dermatol 2012; 30:286–96 23 Greenfield NP, Maibach HI A dermatologic view-moisturizers: Evidence for efficacy Cosmet Toiletries 127 (2012): 854–8 24 Katz HI, Lindholm JS In: Serup J, Jemec GBE, eds Handbook of Non-Invasive Methods and the Skin Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1995; pp 49–55 25 Kadner H, Bieshold C Dermatol Monatsschr 1971; 157:758–9 26 Marks R, Pearse AD Br J Dermatol 1975; 92:651–7 27 Ishida T, Kashibuchi M, Morita K, Yuasa S Cosmetics and Toiletries 1979; 94:39–47 28 Makki S, Barbenel JC, Agache P Acta Derm Venerol (Stockh) 1979; 59:285–91 29 Aubert L, Brun A, Grollier JF, Leveque JL Cosmet Technol Sci 1982; 3:365–70 30 Connemann BJ, Busche H, Kreusch J, Wolff HH Skin Res Technol 1996; 2:40–8 31 Marks R In: Frost P, Horwitz SN, eds Principles of Cosmetics for the Dermatologist St Louis, MO: Mosby, 1982; pp 50–8 32 Corcuff P, de Rigal J, Leveque JL Bioeng Skin 1981; 4:16–31 33 Barton SP, Marshall RJ, Marks R Bioeng Skin 1987; 3:93–107 34 Gormley DE In: Proceedings of Bioengineering and the Skin, San Francisco Meeting, September 1985 35 Black D, Diridollou S Lagarde JM, Gall Y In: Baran R, Maibach  HI, eds Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd edition London: Martin Dunitz, 1998; pp 125–50 36 Picton W, Devitt H, Forgie MA Br J Dermatol 1976; 95:341–8 37 Taylor CJ, Brunt JN, Dixon RN, Gregory PJ Pract Metallogr 1978; 8:433 38 Miller DL In: Serup J, Jemec GBE, eds Handbook of NonInvasive Methods and the Skin Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1995; pp. 149–51 39 Wolf J Z Mikrosk Anat Forsch 1936; 46:170 40 Jenkins HL, Tresise JA J Soc Cosmet Chem 1969; 20:1 41 Kligman AM, Schatz H, Manning S, Stoudemayer T In: Frosch PJ, Kligman AM, eds Noninvasive 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Dermatol 2001; 116:434–43 112 Sarvazyan AP, Ponomarjev VP, Vucelic D, Popovich G, Vexler A Method and device for acoustic testing of elasticity in biological tissues USA Patent 1990; No 4, 947, 851 113 Vexler A, Polyansky I, Gorodetsky R J Invest Dermatol 1999; 113:732–9 114 Soumet JL, Dittmar A, Leftheriotis G Int J Microcirc 1986; 5:73–83 ASSESSING THE EFFICACY OF MOISTURIZERS 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 Foreman MI Biochim Biophys Acta 1976; 437:599–603 Girard P, Beraud A, Sirvent A Skin Res Tech 2000; 6:205–13 Fercher AF, Mengedoht K, Werner W Opt Letter 1988; 13:186–8 Welzel J Skin Res Tech 2001; 7:1–9 Altmeyer P, Erbler H, Kromer T, Duwe HP, Hoffman K Acta Derm Venerol 1995; 75:193–7 Lagarde JM, Rouvrais C, Black D, Diridollou S, Gall Y Skin Res Tech 2001; 7:112–121 De Paepe K Lagarde JM, Gall Y, Roseeuw D, Rogiers V Arch Skin Res 2000; 10:500–10 Rigal J Losch MJ, Bazin R, Camus C, Sturelle C, Deschamps V IFSCC International Congress Yokohama 1992; 3:1131–46 Marshall R, Marks R Assessment of skin surface by scanning densitometry of macrophotography Clin Exp Dermatol 1983; 8:121–7 Jacques SL IEEE Eng Med Bio Soc Conf 1979; 180–182 Imhof RE, Xiao P, De Jesus MEP, Ciortea LI, Berg EP New developments in skin barrier measurements In: Rawlings AV, Leyden JJ, eds Skin Moisturization London: Informa Health Care, 2009; pp 463–79 Lademan J, Otberg N, Richter H, Meyer L, Audring H, Teichmann A, Knuttel STA, Sterry W Skin Res Tech 2007; 13:119–32 Kilpatrick-Liverman L, Kazmi P, Wolff E, Polefka TG Skin Res Tech 2006; 12:162–9 Suihko C, Swindle LD, Thomas SG, Serup J Skin Res Tech 2005; 11:254–67 Batisse D, Giron F, Leveque JL Skin Res Tech 2006; 12:99–104 Koehler MJ, Preller A, Kindler N, Elsner P, Konig P, Konig K, Buckle R, Kaatz MK Skin Res Tech 2009; 15:357–63 Alekseev SI, Szabo I, Ziskin MC Skin Res Tech 2008; 14:390–6 Zhang Y, Brodell RT, Mostow EN, Vinyard CJ, Marie H Skin Res Tech 2009; 15:271–82 Paye M, Mac-Mary S, Elkhyat A, Tarrit C, Mermet P, Humbert PH Skin Res Tech 2007; 13:343–9 Hashmi F, Malone-Lee J Skin Res Tech 2007; 13:252–8 Lee HK, Seo YK, Baek JH, Koh JS Skin Res Tech 2007; 14:8–12 583 136 Konig K, Riemann I High resolution multiphoton tomography of human skin with subcellular spatial resolution and picosecond time resolution J Biomed Opt 2003; 8:432–9 137 Kobow J, Harzic RL, Martin S, Ehler A, Riemann I, Konig K DermaInspect®: In vivo high resolution multiphoto tomography of human skin 18 Aug 2009 Available at: http://www focusonmicroscopy.org/2005/PDF/022_Kobow.pdf 138 Clar E, Her CP, Sturelle CG J Soc Cosm Chem 1975; 26:337–53 ADDITIONAL READING Loden, Marie, Howard I Maibach Treatment of Dry Skin Syndrome The Art and Science of Moisturizers New York, NY: SpringerVerlag, 2012 Penzer, Rebecca, Steven Esser, Susan McGuire, Noreen Nichol, Jill Peter British Dermatology Nursing Group Best practices in Emollient Therapy Dermatologic Nursing 11 (2012): S1–19 Fluhr, Joachim Practical Aspects of Cosmetic Testing: How to Set Up a Scientific Study in Skin Physiology Berlin, Germany: SpringerVerlag, 2011 Barel, Andre O., Marc Paye, Howard I Maibach Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology 3rd edition New York, NY: Informa Healthcare, 2009 Rawlings, Anthony V., James J Leyden Skin Moisturization 2nd edition New York, NY: Informa Healthcare, 2009 Serup, Jorgen, Gregor B.E Jemec, Gary L Grove Handbook of NonInvasive Methods and the Skin 2nd edition Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2006 Loden, Marie, Howard I Maibach Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function 2nd edition Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2005 Fluhr, Joachim, Peter Elsner, Enzo Berardesca, Howard Maibach Bioengineering of the Skin: Water and the Stratum Corneum 2nd edition Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press LLC, 2005 Agache, Pierre, Philippe Humbert Measuring the Skin: Noninvasive Investigations, Physiology, Normal Constants Berlin, Germany: Springer-Verlag, 2004 Index AA, see Azelaic acid AAG, see Androgenogenetic alopecia a-Aminolevulinic acid (ALA), 442 ABA, see Aldobionic acids Abdominal treatment, cryolipolysis, 542, 544 Aberrant plasmin activity, in epidermis, 118 Ablative mesotherapy, 431 Ablative ultrapulse laser therapy, 217 Abnormal hairs, 230 Abnormal keratinization, 56, 167 AbobotulinumtoxinA (ABO), 459 Abrasive nail files, 266 ABS, see Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene Absorbent core, on lotion transfer, 554–555 Acacia nilotica, 155 Accelerated weathering, 232 ACDS, see American Contact Dermatitis Society Acetone, 279–281 Acid-based primer, 279 Acid neutralization, 503–505 Acid strength, of organic hydroxyacid, 59 Acne chemical peeling, 386–387 hydroxyacids, 63 stratum corneum, 130–131 treatment of, 171–172 Acnegenesis, 302–303 Acneic inflammatory lesions, improvement of, 108 Acne keloidalis, 394 Acne scarring, 387 Acrylic acid, 278, 290 Acrylic nail extensions, 273 Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), 276 Actinic keratoses (AK), 531 chronicity and secondary prevention, 214–215 diagnosis of, 214 hydroxyacid, 65 multiple, non-hyperkeratotic, 216–217 nonablative laser rejuvenation, 531 photodynamic therapy, 444–445 therapeutic perspectives, 217 treatment algorithm for, 215, 216 Acute angioedema-type hypersensitivity, 475 Acute formaldehyde reaction, 284 AD, see Atopic dermatitis Adapalene, 332, 363 Adenosine monophosphate disodium salt, 332 Adherent scalp flaking scores (ASFS), 254 Adipokine, 308 Adverse skin effects acnegenesis and comedogenesis, 302–303 contact urticaria, 303–304 photoreactions, 304 primary dermal irritation, 301–302 sensory irritation, 302 Affirm™ Multiplex laser, 525 African hair, 390, 392 AG, see Ascorbyl gluocoside Aging definition of, 143 of female reproductive system, 424 of hair, 231–232 AHAs, see Alpha-hydroxy acids Airborne contact dermatitis, 271, 285 AK, see Actinic keratoses ALA, see a-Aminolevulinic acid 5-ALA, see 5-Aminolevulinic acid Aldaric acid, 57 Aldobionic acids (ABA), 58 Aldonic acid, 57 Alduronic acid, 57–58 Alkyl α-hydroxyacids, 57 Allergic contact dermatitis, 148–149, 277 Allergic rhinitis score (ARS), 161 Alltrans retinoic acid (ATRA), 88 Alopecia, 426 Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), 178, 287, 291, 301, 498 Ambulatory phlebectomy, 318 American Contact Dermatitis Society (ACDS), 301 5-Aminolevulinic acid (5-ALA), 157 Amphoteric surfactant, 60, 237 AMPLI RF, see Automatic multifrequency and low impedance radio frequency Analysis of covariance (ANCOVA), 552–553 Analysis of variance (ANOVA), 552 Ancillary skin care products astringents, 178 face masks, 180–181 facial scrubs, 179–180 mechanized skin care devices, 180 ANCOVA, see Analysis of covariance Androgenetic alopecia, 394, 415 Androgenogenetic alopecia (AAG), 426 Anionic emulsifiers, 290 Anisopoikilocytotic adipocytes, 308 Anodal electrical stimulation, 489 ANOVAs, see Analysis of variance Antagonistic acetoxyacids, 66 Anticellulite products classification of, 309 etiopathogenesis, 308–309 noninvasive techniques, 309–310 therapies, 310–311 Anti-dandruff shampoo, 237, 252 Antimicrobial activity, 491–492 Antioxidants, 65–66, 187 activities, 104 constitutive skin antioxidant network, 80–82 dietary components, 188 effects of environmental stressors on, 82–83 evaluation of, 85 nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs, 187–188 photoprotection of human skin, 83–85 properties, 59 reactive oxygen species, 80 in skin, 410–412 Anti-stress activity, 104 Apoptosis, 536 Apple acid, 57 Aralkyl α-hydroxyacids, 57 585 Arborizing telangiectasias, 510 Arbutin, 154, 332 Areolar layer, 308 Argon laser, 512 Arm patch protocol, 552–553 ARS, see Allergic rhinitis score Arteriolar telangiectasias, 510 Artificial nails, 220, 264, 276–279 removing sculptured, 279 ASA, see Ascorbic acid Ascorbic acid (ASA), 153, 332 Ascorbyl gluocoside (AG), 154 ASFS, see Adherent scalp flaking scores Asian hair, 390, 392–394 Astringents, 178 Asymmetric smile, 466 Atopic dermatitis (AD), 130 pruritus, 158 psoriasis, 161–163 ATRA, see Alltrans retinoic acid Automated phototrichograms, 416–417 Automatic multifrequency and low impedance radio frequency (AMPLI RF), 310 Azelaic acid (AA), 172, 331, 363–364 Azzalure®, 459 Bacterial biofilms, 491 Baphicacavthus cusia, 162 Barrier function, stratum corneum, 132–133 Barrier recovery test, 117 Basal cell carcinomas (BCCs), 186, 193, 194, 444 Basal layer peel, 499–500 Base coats, nail, 269–271 Basement membrane (BM), in photo-aged skin, 120–121 BBI, see Bowman-Birk protease inhibitor BCCs, see Basal cell carcinomas BCOP, see Bovine corneal opacity and permeability test BCSO, see Blackcurrant seed oil Becker nevus, 340 Behind-the-knee (BTK) test, 51 lotion transfer, see Lotion transfer methods of, 551–553 pressure on test samples, 553 skin benefits of, 557–558 Bend of elbow, washing test on, 21 1,4-Benzoquinone molecule, 76 Benzoyl peroxide (BPO), 171–172, 360–361 Beta-carotene, 71 BHA, see β-Hydroxyacids Biochemical action, 62–63 Biochemistry, hydroxyacids, 59 Bio-Electric Imager®, 482 Bioelectricity antimicrobial activity, 491–492 biomimetic electricity, 483, 492–496 bone regenration, 487–488 cellular effects of, 485–487 electric air bath, 481 innate electrical system, 482 ion transport properties, 482–483 586 INDEX microcurrent therapy, 490–491 ranges and cell proliferation, 488 skin wounds and skin aging, 483–485 tissue engineering, 490 transcutaneous electrotherapy and delivery enhancement, 482 wound healing enhancement, 489–490 Bioengineering techniques, 562 indirect electrical, 573–575 measure desquamation, 566–567 measure elasticity, 567–571 mechanical, 571–573 skin surface contour evaluation, 564–566 spectroscopy/thermal transfer, 575–577 stratum corneum imaging, 578–579 transepidermal water loss, 578 Biological action, hydroxyacid, 62 Biomimetic electricity, for dermatological applications, 483, 492–496 Biomimetic electric stimulation, 481 Biomineral complex biomimetic-electricity delivery systems, 492 clinical safety and tolerability of, 493–494 skin anti-aging of, 494–496 in vitro biological responses of, 492–493 Bionic acid, 58 Bismuth oxychloride, 269 BKT, see Behind-the-knee Blackcurrant seed oil (BCSO), 160 Blood vessel reactivity, 404, 406–407 Blowdrying hair, 244 BO, see Borage oil Bocoture®, 459 Body hair, 395–396 Body lotions adverse reactions, 304–305 advertising, 298–300 alleviating dry skin, 291–294 consumers’ skin condition, 301 ingredients for, 288–291 instrumental evaluations of, 295–297 lotion composition, 300–301 predicting adverse skin effects, 301–304 preventing primary irritation, 294 and skin, 287–288 trained expert sensory panel, 298 user evaluation of, 297–298 Bone regenration, influenced by electric fields, 487–488 BoNT-A, see Botulinum neurotoxin type A Borage oil (BO), 160–161 Botanicals, role in cosmeceuticals, 182–183 Botulinum neurotoxin type A (BoNT-A), 259, 459, 467 adjunctive treatments, 466–467 contraindications/limitations, 461–462 facial asymmetry, 465–466 hyperhidrosis, 467–468 lower face, 464–465 middle face, 464 pharmacology and mechanism of action, 459 platysmal bands and décolleté wrinkles, 466 reconstitution and dose equivalence, 459–461 upper face, 462–464 Bovine collagen, 473 Bovine corneal opacity and permeability test (BCOP), 305 Bowen disease, 446–447 Bowman-Birk protease inhibitor (BBI), 94 BPO, see Benzoyl peroxide Browning reaction, 174 BTK, see Behind-the-knee Butylhydroxytoluene, 279 Café-au-lait macules, 340 Caffeine, 188 Calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA), 477–479 Calibrated electrical stimulation of skin, 52 Camellia sinensis, see Green tea Camouflaging, 336 CAMVA, see Chorioallantoic membrane vascular assay Canfield EpiLume®, 416 Carbohydrate metabolism, 59 Carbon dioxide (CO2) lasers, 512 Carotenoids, 188 Cassia fistula, 154–156 Cathodal electrical stimulation, 489 Cationic emulsifiers, 290 Cationic water-soluble polymers, 29 Caucasian hair, 390–394 Causative ingredients, 149 CCCA, see Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia 14C-Ciclopirox penetration, 36, 39–40 CCN1, see Cysteine-rich protein 61 CDLQI, see Children’s dermatology life quality index Cellular necrosis, 442 Cellular retinoic acid binding proteins (CRABP), 88 Cellulite, 309, 431 Cellulosic polymers, 290 Centella asiatica, 310 Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia (CCCA), 393, 395 Ceramide-acid-base, 125 Ceramides biosynthesis of, 132–135 ethnicity, 132 human stratum corneum, 126 lipid organization in, 128–129 nomenclature, 124 normal-phase liquid chromatography, 123 nuclear magnetic resonance, 128 physical properties of, 129 variations in, 129–132 CES, see Cranial electrotherapy stimulation Chamois buffers, 267 Chemical depilatories function, 325–326 Chemical peeling, 386 acid neutralization, 503–505 depths of peels, 498–503 and fibroblasts, 507–508 phenol, 508–509 trichloracetic acid, 505–507 Chemical relaxers, 393 Chemi-osmotic theory, 487 Cherry hemangiomas, 510 Children’s dermatology life quality index (CDLQI), 161 C3H6O3, see Dihydroxyacetone Chorioallantoic membrane vascular assay (CAMVA), 305 Chromhidrosis, 342 Chronic inflammation, atopic dermatitis, 160 Chronicity, actinic keratoses, 215–216 Chronic low back pain, 491 Chronic telogen effluvium, 413 CI, see Color index Ciclopirox, 155 CIT, see Cumulative irritation test Citrate cycle, energy production, 59 Classical mesotherapy, 432 Cleansing cloth, 179 Cleansing products, 169 Climateric hyperkeratosis, 427 Climateric keratodermas, 427 Climateric syndrome, 424 Climbazole, 253 Clinical efficacy, of retinol, 89–91 Closed-chamber instruments, 28–29 Clostridium botulinum, 459 CLSM, see Confocal laser scanning microscopy Coal tar, 253–255 CO2 lasers, see Carbon dioxide lasers Collagen fibers, 259 production, 103 synthesis, 490 Colorant powders, 264 Colorants, see Coloration additives Coloration additives, 269 Colored polymer powders, 277 Colored UV gels, 264, 280 Colorimetric assay, 145–146 Color index (CI), 269 Color stabilizers, 269 Color-treated hair, shampoos for, 237 Comedogenesis, 302–303, 303 Comedolytic agents, 171 Compact stratum corneum, 425 Condenser-chamber method, 29 Conditioners, 237–243 Conditioning shampoos, 237 Confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM), 34, 168 Confounding lifestyle factors, 49 Congenital dermal hypermelanocytosis, 340 Constitutional dry skin, 167 Constitutive skin antioxidant network, 80–82 Consumers’ skin condition, role of, 301 Contact dermatitis, 385 Contact urticaria, 272, 279, 303–304 Continuous wave lasers, 512–514 Conventional “facelift” procedures, 261 Conventional injection technique, 462 Cooling, role of, 515 Copper-vapor laser, 513 Corneocyte counting, 255 Corneocyte desquamation, 167 Corneocytes, 404–405 Corneofix®, 295 Corneofix F20, 168 Corneometer, 20 Corneometer CM 825, 168 Corneometer units (CU), 25 Corneosurfametry, 130 Cortex, 228–229, 392 Cortex moutan, 161 Cortex phellodendri, 161 Cosmeceuticals botanical role of, 182–183 cosmetic labeling standards, 183–184 regulatory oversight of, 182 Cosmetic cryotherapy acne, 454 complications, 456–457 lesion selection, 452–453 mechanism of action, 451 seborrheic keratosis, 455 tattoos, 456 technique and terminology, 450–451 tissue injury, 451–452 vascular lesions, 453–454 vascular stasis and occlusion, 452 viral warts, 454–455 Cosmetic product labeling, 183–184 Cosmetic skin parameters climatic data, 16 laser profilometry, 16–17 outcomes, 21–26 Rz parameter, 17 in vivo topometry of, 17–21 Cotton-tipped dipstick, 451 Covalentlybound ceramides, 125 COX-2, see Cyclooxygenase-2 CPDs, see Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers INDEX CRABP, see Cellular retinoic acid binding proteins Cranial electrotherapy stimulation (CES), 491 Critical wavelength (CW) test, 186 Cross-section trichometer, 419 Croton lechleri, 182 Crow’s feet lines, 260, 262463 Cryolipolysis, 539 assessment and treatment planning, 540 clinical technique, 537–539 efficacy, 542 mechanism of action, 536–537 patient expectations, 542–543, 546 pre-clinical studies, 535–536 side effects, 540–542 treatment for, 539–540 Cryoprobe, 451 Cryosurgery, 354, 453, 457 Cryosurgical treatments, 450 Cryotherapy, 215, 217 CU, see Corneometer units Cultured keratinocytes, 96 Cumulative irritation test (CIT), 301 Curling irons, 244 Cutaneous appendages, 384–385 Cutaneous microcirculation, Cutaneous microvasculature, 7–8 Cuticle, hair, 228, 392 Cuticle, nail removers and softeners, 272–273 trimmers, 267 Cutometer®, 297 Cutters, nail, 266 CW, see Critical wavelength test Cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), 185 Cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), 96, 187 Cypraea moneta, 386 Cystamine, 332 Cysteamine, 332 Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), 89 Cytokinins biology, 113 Damaged corneocytes, 296 Dandruff, 131, 248 Dandruff, treatment considerations, 255 Dark skin, 385 Dark-skinned swine, 94 DBT, see Dibutyl phthalate DC, see Diflucortolone-21-valerate Décolleté wrinkles, 466 Decoration of nail, 264–266 Deep dermal collagen remodeling, 263 Deep venous thrombosis (DVT), 313 Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), 425 DEJ, see Dermo epidermal junction Delayed hair growth, 94–96 Delta fiber, 52 Deoxycholate, 432 Depigmenting agents combination therapies, 333–334 dermabrasion, 334–335 hydroquinone derivatives, 331 phenolic compounds, 330–331 retinoid monotherapy, 332–333 Depressor angulis oris, 464–465 Depressor septi nasi m., 464 DermaCorder™, 486 Dermaflex®, 297 DermaLab, 168 Dermal extracellular matrix production, 493 Dermal fibroblasts, 507–508 Dermal hypermelanocytosis, 340 Dermal matrix enhancement, 96 Dermal Torque Meter, 297 Dermaroller®, 437 Dermatitis papillaris capillitii, 394 Dermatitis, to dihydroxyacetone, 176 Dermatological indications, 63–64 Dermatology treatments atopic dermatitis, see Atopic dermatitis hyperpigmentation, 153–155 onychomycosis, 155–158 Dermo-electroporation, 433 Dermo epidermal junction (DEJ), 387 DES1, see Dihydro CER desaturase DES2, see Dihydro CER hydroxylase Desquamation index (DI), 295 Detergent, cause of dry skin, 117 Deutsche Industrie Norm (DIN), 17 DF, see Dissecting folliculitis D-gluconic acid, 58 DHA, see Dihydroxyacetone DHEA, see Dehydroepiandrosterone DI, see Desquamation index Diastron, 417 Dibutyl phthalate (DBT), 268 Diclofenac, 216 Dietary agents, 187–188 Dietary soy, 93 Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), 128 Diflucortolone-21-valerate (DC), 160 Dihydro CER desaturase (DES1), 128 Dihydro CER hydroxylase (DES2), 128 Dihydrotestosterone, 415 Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), 20–21, 336 application of, 175 chemical structure of, 174 dermatitis to, 176 DIN, see Deutsche Industrie Norm Dipstick technique, 451 Directional cellular locomotion, 487 Direct manual hair count, 416 Disinfection container, 267 Disinfection, nail, 274 Dissecting folliculitis (DF), 394 DNA-based identification techniques, 251 DNA repair enzymes, 217 Domain mosaic model, 129 Dorfman-Charainin syndrome, 130 Dosing procedures, nail plate, 34, 36 Double-blind study, 254 Dried nail, 276 Drug-induced pigmentation, 341 Drug-induced sensitivity, 49 Drug penetration, into human nail, 39 Dry skin, 63, 117, 167 alleviate, 291–294 t-AMCHA methylamide, 119–120 treatment of, 170–171 urokinase in, 118 DSC, see Differential scanning calorimetry D-Squame®, 168, 295 DVT, see Deep venous thrombosis Dyes, 269 Dyschromia camouflaging, 336 lasers and phototherapy, 335 pathophysiology of, 330 surgical approaches, 335–336 tattoos, 342–343 Dyskeratosis, 341–342 Dysport, 459 Dystrophic nails, with subungual hyperkeratosis, 283 Earth-based masks, 181 Econazole concentration, 39 Ectoin, 170 Ectopic contact dermatitis, 285 EFAs, see Essential fatty acids Efinaconazole, 157 Eflornithine cream, 326, 426 EGCG, see Epigallocatechin gallate 587 Elastic fiber network, 259 Elastic recovery/extensibility, skin, 407–409 Elastin enhancement, 103–104 Electric air bath, 481 Electrical properties of skin, 168 Electric fields bone regenration influenced by, 487–488 tissues/organs affected by, 488 Electric neurostimulation, 481 Electric torpedo fish, 481 Electrodessication, 511 Electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy, 85 Electro Pressure Regeneration Therapy (EPRT) device, 490 Electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry (ESI-MS), 123 Electrosurgery, 511 Electrosurgical epilation, 326 ELM, see Epiluminescence microscopy Emery boards, 266 Emollients, 289 Emulsifiers, 289–290 Endogenous electric fields, 487 Endothelin-B receptors, Endovenous chemo-ablation techniques, 313–317 Endovenous laser treatment (EVLT), 317 Environmental stressors, 82–83 Epidermabrasion, 179 Epidermal cooling devices, 515 Epidermal hypertrophy, 118 Epidermal thinning, 425 Epidermosides, 124 Epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), 83–85 Epilator, 326 Epiluminescence microscopy (ELM), 416 EPO, see Evening primrose oil EPRT device, see Electro Pressure Regeneration Therapy device ER, see Estrogen receptors ERT, see Estrogen replacement therapy Erythema, 50 ESI-MS, see Electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry ESR, see Electron spin resonance spectroscopy Essential fatty acids (EFAs), 159, 289 Estradiol, 425 Estriol, 425 Estrogen, in topical treatments, 425–426 Estrogen receptors(ER), 415 Estrogen replacement therapy (ERT), 424–426 Ethnic cosmetics aging and rejuvenation, 387 chemical peeling, 386–387 cutaneous appendages, 384–385 skin color, 384 skin disease, 385–386 sun protection, 386 Ethnic skin antioxidant status, 410–411 blood vessel reactivity, 404, 406–407 corneocyte variability, 404–405 effects on, 109 elastic recovery/extensibility, 407–409 facial pore size, 411 lipid content, 408–410 methods, 398 pH gradient, 408 transepidermal water loss (TEWL), 398–401 water content, 399, 401–404 Ethyl methacrylate monomer, 279 Eucalyptus citriodora, 156 Evening primrose oil (EPO), 160 Evernia prunastri, 149 588 INDEX EVLT, see Endovenous laser treatment Evolence®, 473 Excessive hair causes of, 321–324 cosmetic procedures for removal of, 324–325 shaving, 325–327 Exfoliants, 178 Exogenous ochronosis, 386 Extrinsic skin aging, 64–66 Eye irritation, 304–305 Eyelashes, 395–396 Eyelid dermatitis, 271, 282 Face masks, 180 Facial asymmetry, 465–466 Facial hirsutism, 426 Facial lengtigines, reduction of, 105 Facial peeling, 454 Facial pore size, 411 Facial scrubs, 179 Facial telangiectasias, 510–512 Facial wrinkles, 462, 466 Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA), 183 Fast optical in vivo topometry (FOIT), 17–21 FD, see Folliculitis decalvans FDA, see Food and Drug Administration FD&C Act, see Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act FDD, see Frequency distribution of depth Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), 183 Female hair with aging clinical manifestations of, 413–415 efficacy measures of, 416–419 mechanisms of, 415–416 Female pattern hair loss (FPHL), 413–414 Feminine-care products, 50 Ferric ferrocyanide, 269 Ferulic acid, 202–204 Fibered cloths, 179 Fibroblastic phase, 353 Fibroblasts, 262, 507–508 Field of cancerization, actinic keratoses, 214, 215 Film-drying accelerant, 269–270 Film formers, 268 Film modifiers, 268 Finasteride, 426 Flank treatment, cryolipolysis, 544 Flashlamp pumped-pulsed dye laser (FLDP), 512–513 Flat irons, 244 Flat lesions, 455 FLDP, see Flashlamp pumped-pulsed dye laser Flos lonicerae, 161 Fluid mosaic model, 128 Fluorescent-style UV nail lamps, 221 Fluorescent tubes, 220 5-Fluorouracil, 216 Foam Sclerotherapy, 315–316 FOIT, see Fast optical in vivo topometry Follicular unit (FU) density, 391 Folliculitis decalvans (FD), 395 Folliculitis keloidalis, see Acne keloidalis Fontana-Mason staining, 94 Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 93 Forehead lines, 462–463 Forehead wrinkles, 90 Formaldehyde, 284, 291, 302–303 Formalin, 285 Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, 128 4-n-Butylresorcinol, 331 Four-week laxity clinical study, 495–496 FPHL, see Female pattern hair loss FPLA, see Fair Packaging and Labeling Act Fractional 1440-nm laser, 522 Fractional 1540-nm laser, 525 Fractional 1550-nm laser, 521–522 Fractional photothermolysis, 519, 520 Fractional Q-switched ruby laser, 526 Fragrance allergic patient, 149–151 Fragrance ingredients adverse reactions to, 148 allergic contact dermatitis to, 149 Frail nails, 266 Fraxel division, 520 Fraxel DUAL 1550/1927 lasers, 522 Free fatty acids, in human stratum corneum, 127, 129 Freeze-thaw cycle (FTC), 450 Frequency distribution of depth (FDD), 19 Frozen porcine fat, 538 Fruit acid, 57 FTC, see Freeze-thaw cycle FTIR spectroscopy, see Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy FU density, see Follicular unit density Functional magnetic resonance imaging, 52 Functional skin properties, 48 Fungus identification methods, 33 GAGs, see Glycosaminoglycans Galvanic current, 492 Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), 160 Gel matrix, 59 Genistein, 207–209 Genital discomfort, 426 Gentian violet (GV), 160 Gingival smile, 465 GLA, see Gamma-linolenic acid Glabellar lines, 462 Glabellar m., 462 Glutathione (GSH), 81–82, 84 Gluteofemoral adipocytes, 432 Gluteraldehdye, 278 Glyceraldehyde, 174 Glycerides, 289 Glycerol monothioglycolate (GMTG), 394 Glycolic acid, 56, 57, 365 Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), 59, 171 GMTG, see Glycerol monothioglycolate Greasy skin, 167–168, 171 Green tea, 83–84, 182 Grenz zone peel, 500–501 GSH, see Glutathione GV, see Gentian violet HA, see Hyaluronic acid Hair biochemistry, 392 care and styling, 393 characteristics, 392–393 conditioners, 237–243 cosmetic aspects of, 227–231 cosmetic products for, 235 count, 107, 327 damage, 232–235 density, 231, 391 diameter and texture, 230–231 excessive, see Excessive hair gels, 246 greying, 415 growth, 391–392, 419 phenotype, 232 shaft changes, 414 shampoos, 235–237 straightening, 244–245 styling, 243, 245–246 types of, 231 volume, 243–244, 244 HAIR-AN, see Hyperandrogenism, insulin resistance, and acanthosis nigricans syndrome Hair regrowth automated phototrichograms, 416 combination measures, 419 diameter, 416–418 Hairspray, 246 Halo nevus, 338 Handheld reusable textured cleansing pads, 180 Hand lotions, see Body lotions Hard keratin, 32 HASI, see Hyperhidrosis Area and Severity Index HB-EGF, see Heparin-binding–epidermal growth factor Hemosiderosis, 341 Heparin-binding–epidermal growth factor (HB-EGF), 88 Herba menthae, 161 4-hexyl-1,3-phenylenediol, 144–145 HGA, see Homogentisic acid HH, see Hyperhidrosis Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS), 350 age and sex distribution, 369 cosmetics of, 371 treatment of, 369–371 High-grit boards, 266 Hippophae rhamnoides, 154–155 Hirsutism, 321–322, 426 Hollow microneedles, 439 Homogentisic acid (HGA), 386 Hormonal skin aging, 424–425 Hormone replacement therapy (HRT), 425 Horny cells, 385 Hot combing, 393 HPV, see Human papilloma virus HQ, see Hydroquinone HRIPT, see Human repeated insult patch HRT, see Hormone replacement therapy HS, see Hidradenitis suppurativa Human abdominal tissue, 536, 538 Human-derived collagen, 473 Human fingernail plates, 34 Human forearm biopsy, 73 Human papilloma virus (HPV), 215 Human periorbital wrinkle aged skin aspect, 259–260 aligned collagen layer, 262 computer model of, 261–262 implications, 262–263 local differences in, 260–261 Human repeated insult patch (HRIPT), 301–302 Human scalp hair care and styling, 393–394 characteristics of, 392–393 color, 392 density of, 391 ethnic variations in, 394–395 growth, 391–392 shape and thickness, 390–391 Humectants, 170–171, 289 Hyaluronic acid (HA), 167, 216, 473–476 Hydrating products, 169 Hydrocolloid masks, 181 Hydrogen sulfide, 365 Hydroquinone (HQ), 76, 276, 282, 330–331 Hydroxyacids, 56 bioavailable concentration, 59–60 biochemistry, 59 cosmetic and dermatological indications, 63–64 differences of, 66–68 α-hydroxyacids, 56–57, 58 β-hydroxyacids, 57 intrinsic and extrinsic skin aging, 64–66 INDEX mechanisms of action, 62–63 optimal release formulation, 60 physicochemical properties, 58–59 polyhydroxy acids, 57–58 topical actions, 60–62 β-Hydroxyacids (BHA), 57, 178 β-Hydroxybutanoic acid, 57 β-Hydroxybutyric acid, see β-Hydroxybutanoic acid Hyperandrogenism, insulin resistance, and acanthosis nigricans (HAIR-AN) syndrome, 321 Hyperhidrosis (HH), 467–468 Hyperhidrosis Area and Severity Index (HASI), 467 Hyperkeratotic actinic keratosis, 215 Hyperkeratotic wart, 454 Hyperpigmentation, 94, 105, 153–155, 451 Hypertonic saline, 315 Hypertrichosis, 322–324, 426 Hypertrophic scars, 529 Hypopigmentation, 385, 529 Ichthyoses, 129–130 Idebenone, 77–78, 84 skincare delivery of, 78 Idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis, 341 IFRA, see International Fragrance Association IκB kinases (IKK), 143 IKK, see IκB kinases Imidazole antimycotic agent, 253 Imiquimod, 216 Immediate pigment darkening (IPD), 185 Impedence microscopy (IS), 33 INCI, see International Cosmetic Ingredient; International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients INCO, see IncobotulinumtoxinA IncobotulinumtoxinA (INCO), 459 Indigo naturalis, 162 Indoor tanning, 189 Inflammatory phase, 353 Infraorbital rhytides, 463 Ingenol mebutate, 216–217 Ingredient classes emollients, 289 emulsifiers, 289–290 minor components, 290–291 water, 288–289 water-soluble polymers, 290 Injectable silicone, 479 Inner thigh treatment, cryolipolysis, 544 Inorganic agents, of sunscreens, 194–195 In-plane microneedles, 436 Integumentary system, 261 Intense pulsed light (IPL), 336, 511, 514–515 Intensive conditioners, 239 Intercellular lipids, 28, 45, 250 International Cosmetic Ingredient (INCI), 288 International Fragrance Association (IFRA), 151 International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI), 268, 284 Intra-arterial injection, 475–476 Intradermal botulinum toxin, 172 Intra-epidermal secondary factors, 117 Intraepidermic peel, 498–499 Intralesional injection, 354 Intrinsic antifungal potency, 255 Intrinsic skin aging, 64–66 IPD, see Immediate pigment darkening IPL, see Intense pulsed light Irritant dermatitis, 7–8 Irritant test, 45, 47 IS, see Impedence microscopy Isoflavones, 101, 426 Isolated actinic keratosis, 215 Isolated hyperkeratotic actinic keratosis, 215 Isolated onycholysis, 285 Isotretinoin, 362 KA, see Kojic acid Keloidalis nuchae, see Acne keloidalis Keloids, 456 clinical aspects, 349–350 histologic examination of, 350–352 hypertrophic scars vs., 349 pathogenesis, 352–353 treatment of, 354–358 Keratinization, 60 Keratinocytes, 404 destruction, 452 differentiation, ceramides on, 134–135 proliferation of, 117–118 Keratolytic treatment, of acne azelaic acid, 363–364 benzoyl peroxide, 360–361 retinoids, see Retinoids salicylic acid, 364 sulfur, 365 Ketoconazole, 253, 254 Kinetin chemistry, 113 clinical studies, 114–115 exact mechanism of, 113–114 Kligman formulation, 386 Kligman’s formula, 333 Kojic acid (KA), 331 KTP 532nm green lasers, 512 Kunitztype trypsin inhibitor, 94 Lactic acid, 171 Lactone form, 58 Lamellar bodies, see Membrane-coating granules Laminin 332, 121–122 Lanolin, 289 Lanugo hair, 228 L-ascorbic acid, see Vitamin C Laser Doppler flowmetry (LDF), 309 Laser Doppler velocimetry (LDV), 406 Laser profilometry, 16–17 Laser therapy, onychomycosis, 157–158 Late-onset pain, 542, 543 Layered haircut, 393 LCD, see Liquor carbonis detergens LDF, see Laser doppler flowmetry LDV, see Laser Doppler velocimetry LE, see Lupus erythematosus Leave-in conditioners, 239 LED-style nail lamps, 278, 280 Leg telangiectasias, 513 Lentigines, 340 L-ergothioneine, 84 Levator labii superioris m., 464 Light emitting diodes (LED) UV nail lamps, 221 Linear density diameter, hair, 417 Linear telangiectasias, 510 Lipid content, skin, 408–410 Lipolytic stimulation, 431 Lipometer, 169 Lipophilic compounds, 71 Liquid nitrogen cryotherapy, 334–335 Liquiritin, 333 Liquor carbonis detergens (LCD), 160 Local anesthetics block response, 50 Local phenol, 508 Long-lasting fillers, 476–479 Long nail, 264 Long pulsed 1064-nm lasers, 513–514 589 Long-pulse dye laser, 513 Lotion composition, 300–301 Lotion measurement, 552 Lotion transfer absorbent core on, 554–555 durations of exposure, 554 on pad samples, 553–554 pad thickness on, 556 skin benefits of, 557–558 Lower face, 464–465 Low-grit boards, 266 Low intensity electricity, 491 LPG endermologie, 310 L-selenomethionine, 205–207 Luna stain, 103 Lupus erythematosus (LE), 424 Lycopene, 188 Macrophotographic manual hair count, 416 Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI), 309–310 Magnolignan, 332 Mahonia aquifolium, 161–162 Maillard reaction, 174 MAL, see Methyl aminolevulinate Malassezia furfur, 248 Malassezia globosa, 251 Malassezia yeast, 168 Male skin, age-related changes in mechanical properties, 380 methods, 377 pH value, 378–379 sebum excretion, 379–380 skin barrier function, 378 wrinkle development, 380–381 Maltobionic acid, 59 Marionette lines, 464 Massage treatment, 310 Mass balance, of radioactivity recovery, 36, 37 Masseteric hypertrophy, 465 Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), 88–89, 120 MBEH, see Monobenzylether of hydroquinone MCG, see Membrane-coating granules MC1R, see Melanocortin receptor Mechanism of action, self-tanning products, 174–175 MED, see Minimal erythema dose Medium-grit boards, 266 Medulla, 229, 392 MEHQ, see Methyl ethyl hydroquinone Melanex, 105 Melanin, 153, 384, 392 Melanocortin receptor (MC1R), 188 Melanocytes, 386, 392 Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH), 13 Melanoderma, 330 Melanogenesis inhibition, 493 Melanoidins, 336 Melanoma, 193–194 Melanosomes, 392 Melasma, 153, 387 Membrane-coating granules (MCG), 123–124, 127 MEND, see Microscopic exudative necrotic debris Menopausal dry skin, 425 Menopausal skin thinning, 425 Menopause, 415 hormonal replacement therapy, 424 hormonal skin aging, 424–425 hormone regimens, 425–426 hormone replacement therapy, 425 phytoestrogens, 426 Mentalis, 464–465 590 INDEX Mesotherapy, 311 for fat deposits, 431–432 skin renjuvenation, 432–434 Metabolism of retinol, 88 Methacrylate liquid/powder, 276 4-Methoxy Potassium Salicylate (4-MSK), 332 Methyl aminolevulinate (MAL), 442 Methylene glycol, 270, 284–285 Methyl ethyl hydroquinone (MEHQ), 276, 282 Methylxanthines, 310 METS, see Microcurrent stimulation mFCAT, see Modified forearm controlled application test MIC, see Minimum inhibitory concentration Microampere current, 490 Microbiological contamination, 270 Microcomedo, 360 Microcurrent electrical therapy, 490–491 Microcurrent stimulation (METS), 488 Microdermabrasion, 180 Microneedle cosmetic uses, 437–439 safety of, 439 strategies for drug delivery, 437 Microneedle-based devices, 437 Microneedle rollers, 436 Microorganisms, 291 Microscopic exudative necrotic debris (MEND), 520 Microthermal zones (MTZ), 520 Mid-angle sunlight, 223 Middle face, 464 Millisecond pulse durations, 516 Mineral oil, 289 Miniature needles, 436 Minimal erythema dose (MED), 185 Minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), 33, 38–39 Minor components, 290–291 Misuse, body lotions, 301 Mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA), 80 Mitochondrial lipid peroxidation, 76 Mitochondrial theory, of aging, 76 MMEH, see Monomethyl of hydroquinone MMPs, see Matrix metalloproteinases Mode of action, 236, 238–239 Modern nail art, 264 modified forearm controlled application test (mFCAT), 553 MoistureMeter SC-4, 168 Moisture/smooth hair, 241 Moisturization balance, in combination skin, 108–109 Moisturizer efficacy advertising claims made for, 298–299 alleviating dry skin, 291–294 bioengineering techniques, 562 data, 562–564 instrumental evaluations of, 295–297 problems with, 561–562 product evaluation by trained expert, 298 user evaluation of, 297–298 Moisturizing shampoos, 237 Monobenzylether of hydroquinone (MBEH), 331, 337 Monomethyl of hydroquinone (MMEH), 331 Monometric cyanoacrylate, 283 Mottled pigmentation, 387 Mousses, 246 MSH, see Melanocyte-stimulating hormone 4-MSK, see 4-Methoxy Potassium Salicylate mtDNA, see Mitochondrial DNA MTS-Roller™, 439 MTZ, see Microthermal zones Mud packs, see Earth-based masks Multiple hyperkeratotic actinic keratoses, 217 Multi-wavelength fractional 1440/1320-nm laser, 525–526 Muscular pumping, 309 Myroxylon pereirae, 149 NAAs, see N-acetylamino acids N-acetylamino acids (NAAs), 66–67 N-acetyl compounds, 66–67 N-acylpeptides (NAP), 67–68 NAD, see National Advertising Division NAFL, see Nonablative fractional lasers Nail base and top coats, 269–271 chemical properties, 32–33 coloration additives, 269 decoration of, 264–266 items for, 266–267 nail varnish basics, 268 potential for injury/infection, 273–274 reactions to applied cosmetics, 271–273 solvents and diluents, 268–269 texture of, 266 toiletries and cosmetics, 267 treatment of, 283–285 Nail buffers, 267 Nail creams, 270–271 Nail incubation, 34–36 Nail keratin granulation, 272 Nail penetration antifungal efficacy coefficient, comparison of, 40 14C-econzaole, profile of, 38 nail lacquer formulations, 37 nail permeation testing and sampling, 33 nail plate and bed, hydration of, 36 noninvasive diagnostic tools for onychomycosis, 33–36 physical and chemical properties of, 32–33 radiolabeled drug penetration, 39 Nail plate hydration of, 36 lipid pathway in, 32 staining, 272 ventral/intermediate, 35–36 Nail sampling, 35–37 Nail varnish, 270, 279 basics, 268 dermatitis, 271–272 diluents and solvents, 268–269 formulation, 267 Nail whitener, 267 NAP, see N-acylpeptides Narrow band ultraviolet B (NBUVB) courses, 222 Nasal tip droop, 464 Nasal wrinkles, 464 NASHA, see Non–animal-sourced hyaluronic acid gel National Advertising Division (NAD), 299 National Organic Program (NOP), 183 Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), 127, 169, 171 NBUVB courses, see Narrow band ultraviolet B courses Necrosis, 536 Netherton syndrome, 130 Neurogenic causality, 52 Neurogenic inflammation, 52 Nevus depigmentosus, 338 Nevus spilus, 340 NFκB, see Nuclear factor kappa B 1927-nm lasers, 522 Nippers, 266 Nitrocellulose, 268 Nitroethane poisoning, 279 NMFs, see Natural moisturizing factors NMR, see Nuclear magnetic resonance NMSC, see Nonmelanoma skin cancer Nodular basal cell carcinoma, 446 No-light cyanoacrylate gels, 280, 283 Nonablative fractional lasers (NAFL), 520 cynosure icon family of, 522–525 Solta family of, 520–521 Nonablative infrared lasers, 519 Nonablative laser rejuvenation, 519 cynosure icon family, 522–525 fractional 1540-nm laser, 525 fractional photothermolysis, 520 Fraxel 1550-nm laser, 521–522 multi-wavelength fractional 1440/1320-nm laser, 525–526 1927-nm lasers, 522 nonablative fractional lasers, solta family of, 520–521 photodamage, 528–529 pigmentary disorders, 531 post-care routine, 527 scars, 529–530 striae, 530–531 Nonablative photorejuvenation, 387 Non allergic reactions, nail, 279–281 Non-amphoteric system, 60 Non–animal-sourced hyaluronic acid gel (NASHA), 474 Non-denatured soy, in skin care clinical efficacy of, 105–109 composition, 96–102 and delayed hair growth, 94–96 and dermal matrix enhancement, 96 early utilization of, 93–94 human health, 93 for human topical applications, 102–103 preclinical results of, 103–105 proteins, 94 Nonhyperkeratotic actinic keratosis, 215 Nonhypertrophic acne scarring, 387 Noninvasive diagnostic tools, for onychomycosis methodology, 34–36 results of, 36 Noninvasive techniques, 391 Nonionic emulsifiers, 290 Nonionic shampoo, 237 Nonkeratinized vulvar skin, 49 Nonmelanoma skin cancer (NMSC), 188, 221 development, 96 Nonmethacrylic acid primers, 276–277 Non-nitrated cellulosic, 268 Nonrepaired damage, of mitochondrial DNA, 76 Non-scalp seborrheic dermatitis, 252 Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), 187–188 NOP, see National Organic Program Normal-phase liquid chromatography (NPLC), 123 Normal skin, 167 treatment of, 169–170 Nova Dermal Phase Meter DPM 9003, 168 NovaTM, 297 NPLC, see Normal-phase liquid chromatography NSAIDs, see Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs Nuclear factor kappa B (NFκB) activation under skin aging, 144 homeostasis, 143–144 signaling, 143 Nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR), 128 Oats, 159 Occlusive moisturizing ingredients, 171 INDEX Occupational irritant hand dermatitis (OIHD), 563 Ochronosis, 341 OCT, see Optical coherence tomography OFDA, see Optical fiber diameter assessment OIHD, see Occupational irritant hand dermatitis Oil inclusion, conditioning products in, 239 Omega-hydroxy ceramides, 126 OnabotulinumtoxinA (ONA), 459 Onycholysis, 264, 273, 277–279, 282, 284 Onychomycosis, 64, 447 alternative treatments for, 159 Ciclopirox, 155 noninvasive diagnostic tools for, 33–36 tavaborole, 157 tea tree oil, 155–156 topical therapy for, 32 Vicks® VapoRub, 156–157 Onychoschizia, 266 Open-chamber instruments, 28 Open spray liquid nitrogen, 454 Optical coherence tomography (OCT), 33–34, 168, 387 Optical devices, 310 Optical fiber diameter assessment (OFDA), 417–418 Optical techniques, for skin characterization, 579–580 Optimal metal ions, 102 Optimal release formulation, 60 ORAC, see Oxygen radical absorbance capacity Orbicularis oris m., 464 Osler-Weber-Rendu syndrome, 510 OTC products, see Over-the-counter products Oval-shaped nails, 264 Over-the-counter (OTC) products, 385–386 Oxidation, 59 Oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), 85 Pain sensation for skin, 11 Palomar Icon Aesthetic System, 525 Panniculitis, 535 Papillary dermis peel, 501–502 Papular telangiectasias, 510 PAR-2, see Protease-activated receptor-2 Paronychia, 277, 282, 284 Partial neutralization, 60 Paste masks, see Earth-based masks Pathological nails, cosmetics for adverse reactions, 281–283 allergic reactions, 277–279 artificial nails, 276–277 nail hardeners and treatments, 283–285 non allergic reactions, 279–281 removable UV gels, 281 PCOS, see Polycystic ovary syndrome PCPC, see Personal Care Products Council PDD, see Photodynamic diagnosis PDT, see Photodynamic therapy Pedicure implements, 267 Pentaherbs (PTH), 161 Percutaneous water loss, 425 Perfumes allergic contact dermatitis, 148–149 applications of, 148 causative ingredients, 149 fragrance allergic patient, 149–151 interventions and regulations, 151 Perifolliculitis capitis abscedens et suffodiens, see Dissecting folliculitis Perimenopause, 415, 424 Perioral area, 464 Periorbital feet lines, 463 Permanent fillers, 479 Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPAR), 134, 310 Personal Care Products Council (PCPC), 288 Pesticide residues, 289 Petrolatum, 289 PGE2, see Prostaglandin E2 PHA, see Polyhydroxy acids Phagocytosis, 536 Pharmacological agents, 310 Phenol, 508–509 Phenotype, 232 pH gradient, skin, 408 Phloretin, 203–204 Phospholipids, 101 Phosphotidylcholine, 432 Photoaging, 88–91, 120, see also Antioxidants clinical manifestations of, 510 Photocarcinogenesis, 76, 193–194 Photodamage, 199, 528–529, see also Sunscreen antioxidants and dietary agents, 187–188 education and prevention of, 189 ferulic acid, 202–203 genistein, 207–209 phloretin, 203–204 protection from visible light and infrared radiation, 188–189 selenium, 204–206 signs, 90 solar exposure, 185–186 sunscreen, 186–187 ultraviolet radiation mechanisms, 185 vitamin C, 199–200 vitamin D, 187 vitamin E, 200–202 Photodynamic diagnosis (PDD), 446 Photodynamic therapy (PDT), 157, 217, 437, 531 effects on tissues, 442 indications in dermatology, 444–447 light source, 443–444 oxygen, 444 and pain, 448 photosensitizing agents, 442–443 in practice, 447–448 Photoinitators (PI), 220 Photoplethysmography (PPG), 406 Photoprotection of human skin, 83–85 physical methods of, 187 Photoprotective products, 170 Photoreactions, ingredients, 304 photosensitizing agents, 442–443 Phototherapy treatment, of pigmentary disorders, 335 Phototrichograms hair, 417 scalp hair, 391 pH values, 378–379 in skin surface, 384 Physicochemical properties, 58–59 Phytoestrogens, 426 Phytosterols, 101 PI, see Photoinitators Picosecond lasers, 516 Picotage, 432 Piebaldism, 338 PIF, see Product information file Pigmentary disorders, 531 Pigmentary lesions, treatment of, 515–516 dark rings, 340–341 dyskeratosis, 341–342 hypopigmented striae and iatrogenic leukoderma, 341 melasma, 336–337 solar lentigines, 338–339 vitiligo, 337–338 591 Pigmentary mosaicism, 340 Pigmentation, 269 hair shaft, 415–416 PIH, see Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation Pilocarpine iontophoresis, sweat test, Pilosebaceous unit, 11–13 Pineal hormone melatonin, 84 Pityrosporum, 248 PL, see Polypodium leucotomos Placebo cream, 425 Plantar warts, 454 Plasmin in dry skin, 117–120 in skin aging, 120–122 Plasminogen activator, 118, 119 Plasticizers, 268 Plastic tips, 276 Platysmal bands, 466 PLE, see Protein-losing enteropathy Plicometry, 309 PLLA, see Poly-L-lactic acid PMH, see Progressive macular hypomelanosis PMMA, see Polymethylmethacrylate PMS, see Polymultichrome stain Poikiloderma of civatte, 340 Polidocanol (POL), 315 Polycarboxy α-hydroxyacids, 57 Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), 321 Polydatin, 170 Polyhydroxy acids (PHA), 57–58 Poly-L-lactic acid (PLLA), 476 Polymer-based microneedle roller, 437 Polymerization of nail coating, 220–221 Polymer nails, 279 Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), 479 Polymultichrome stain (PMS), 295 Polyols, 171 Polyphenols, 83–84, 96 Polypodium leucotomos (PL), 188 Polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), 171, 188 Pomades, 246 Pomegranate extract, 170 Popliteal fossa, 551 Porcine collagen, 473 Porcine fat, 538 Porcine tissue, 535–536 Porosity, of hair, 392 Porphyrias, 424 Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), 109, 334, 385–386, 387 Postinflammatory pigmentation, 341 Postmenopausal alopecia, 427 Postmenopausal facial hirsutism, 426 Postmenopausal vulval atrophy, 426 Postmenopausal women parallels bone loss in, 425 skin aging in, 426 Postmenopause, 424 Postpartum telogen effluvium, 413 Post-peel period, 509 Postulated activation, of antioxidants, 81 Potentiated pyrithione zinc formulas, 253–254 PPAR, see Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors PPG, see Photoplethysmography Preformed artificial nails, 281–283 Premarin, 425 Premenopause, 424 Pre-peel conditioning, 498 Preservatives, 290–291, 302 Press-on nail extender, 273 Prevelle® Silk, 474 Primary dermal irritation, 301–302 Primary irritation, 293–294 592 INDEX Product information file (PIF), 299 Progressive macular hypomelanosis (PMH), 341 Proliferative phase, see Fibroblastic phase Prolonged paresthesia, 277, 279 Pro Mechanica® software, 261 Pronounced idiosyncratic edema, 456 Proper curing, of nail coatings, 220 Propionibacterium acnes, 167, 303, 360, 361 Proprietary gamma irradiation, 99 Prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), 187 Prosthetic nail, 277 Protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2), 94, 384 Protective property of sunscreen, 186–187 Protein-losing enteropathy (PLE), 188 Proteoglycans, 167 Protoporphyrin IX absorption, 444 Pro urokinase-type plasminogen activator (Pro-uPA), 118 Pruritus, 64, 158, 162–163 Pseudoceramides, 291 Pseudochromhidrosis, 342 Pseudofolliculitis barbae, 387, 394 Pseudomonas, 273 Psoriasis, 129–130, 161–163 Psoriatic skin, 118 Psychotherapy, 427 Pterygium inversum, 284 PUFAs, see Polyunsaturated fatty acids Purpura, 512 Pushers, 267 Pyrithione zinc (ZPT), 252–253, 254–255 Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, 171 QoL, see Quality of life QRA, see Quantitative risk assessment QSPR model, see Quantitative structure– activity relationship model Q-switched lasers, 515–516 Quality of life (QoL), 298–299, 369 Quantitative risk assessment (QRA), 302 Quantitative structure–activity relationship (QSPR) model, 33 Rabbit ear model, cosmetic ingredients in, 304 Racket nails, 276 Radiation therapy, 357–358 Radiesse®, 477–479 Radio frequency (RF), 387 Raman spectroscopy, 128 Randomized controlled trials (RCTs), 369–370, 563 Randomized double-blind study, 255 Ra parameter, 17 RAR, see Retinoic acid receptors RARs, see Retinoic acid receptors RBP, see Retinol-binding protein RCTs, see Randomized controlled trials Reactive nitrogen species (RNS), 80, 82, 84 Reactive oxygen species (ROS), 65, 80, 185, 231 Refsum disease, 130 Rel homology, 143 Repeated insult patch test (RIPT), 102 Repeated nasal flare, 464 Repeated short-term occlusive irritation test (ROIT), 294 Repigmentation, 452 RES, see Resveratrol Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), 302 Resistance, water, 401 Resorcinol, 365 Restylane injection, 475 Resveratrol (RES), 170, 188 Reticulary dermis peel, 502–503 Retinoic acid receptors (RARs), 71, 361–362 Retinoid metabolic pathways, 72 Retinoids, 71, 88–91, 355, 361–362, 385 adapalene, 363 tazarotene, 362–363 tretinoin, 362 Retinoid-sensitive models, 74 Retinol biological effect on skin, 88–89 clinical aspects of, 89–91 metabolism of, 88 Retinol-binding protein (RBP), 88 Retinol-cytoplasmic retinol-binding protein, 71 Retinol esters, molecular biology of, 71–72 Retinyl esters biochemistry and molecular biology of, 71–72 potential to break retinoid efficacy to irritation correlation with, 72–74 Retinyl propionate, and related retinoids, 71–74 RF, see Radio frequency Rhinophyma, 455 Rhizoma atractylodis, 161 RIFM, see Research Institute for Fragrance Materials RIPT, see Repeated insult patch test RNS, see Reactive nitrogen species ROIT, see Repeated short-term occlusive irritation test Rooster comb–derived fillers, 474 ROS, see Reactive oxygen species Rosacea, 63 RRR-α-tocopherol, 200–202 Rubber-based masks, 180–181 Rz parameter, 17 SA, see Salicylic acid; Senescent alopecia Salicylic acid (SA), 253, 364, see also β-Hydroxy acids Sanitation, nail, 274 Savin patterns of hair loss, 414 SC, see Stratum corneum Scars, 371, 529–530 SCC, see Squamous cell carcinoma Sclerotherapy chemo-ablation techniques, 313–317 Scoring for atopic dermatitis (SCORAD) scale, 159–161 Scoring system, 77 Scrubbing pads, 180 Sculpted nail, 277 Sculptra®, 476–477 Sculptured artificial nails, 277, 278 SDA, see Spectrum descriptive analysis SE, see Sebum excretion Seborrheic dermatitis, 168, 248 treatment of, 172 Seborrheic keratosis, 339, 455 Sebufix F16, 169 Sebumeter SM 810, 169 Sebum excretion (SE), 379–380 measurement of, 169 Sebum output, quantification of, 169 Sebum production, 108–109 Sebum regulator, 172 Sebum secretion, 167 Sebutape®, 51, 169 Secondary prevention, actinic keratoses, 215–216 Selenium, 204–206 with vitamin E, 206–207 Selenium sulfide, 253, 254–255 Self-tanning products application of, 175 indications, 175–176 mechanism of action, 174–175 safety, 176 Semi-automated phototrichograms, see Automated phototrichograms Semipermanent fillers, 476–479 SENEB, see Subepidermal nonechogenic band Senescent alopecia (SA), 413, 415 Senescent signals, 415 Senile xerosis, 131 Sensitive skin factors in, 47–50 sensory effects and objective signs, 50 zeroing in on biological origin, 50–52 Sensitization-delayed (Type IV) contact hypersensitivity, 302 Sensitization testing, 302 Sensory functions of skin autonomic function, 11 thermal response to stimulation, 10–11 thermoregulatory, 8–10 Sensory irritation, 302 Serine palmitoyl transferase (SPT), 129 Sesamol, 170 Seven-irritant panel, 47 Shampoos, 235–237 Short microneedles, 437 Siderosis, 341 Silicone oil, 269 Silicones, 239, 289 Silicon gel, 354 Single gel phase model, 129 Sjưgren-Larsson syndrome, 130 Skicon®, 297 Skicon 200, 168 Ski-jump nails, 276 Skin aging, 88–89, 387, 424–425 new target for, 144–146 NFκB activation under, 144 Skin barrier function, 378 “Skin battery,” 483 Skin biopsies, 90 Skin brightness measurement, 169 Skin cancer, see Sunscreen Skin care additives, 291 Skin care devices, 180–181 Skin care products acne treatment, 171–172 care of dry skin, 170–171 care of greasy skin, 171 care of normal skin, 169–170 different types of skin, 167–168 methods for evaluating skin characteristics, 168–169 sebum regulator, 172 soybeans in, see non-denatured soy, in skin care Skin color, 11, 12, 384 Skin conductance, 399 Skin disease exogenous ochronosis, 386 irritation and stinging, 385 post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), 385–386 Skin dryness, 295 Skin elasticity, 297 Skin firming, enhancement in, 108 Skin glycosaminoglycan composition, 259 Skin homeostasis, 143–144 Skin hydration measurements, 168 Skin innervation, 411 Skin irritation, 385, 399 Skin lipids, 384 Skin maximization study, 78 Skin peeling, 60–62 INDEX Skin physiology biochemical composition of, 3–5 functional differences, 5–7 sebaceous glands, 11–13 sensory functions, 8–11 Skin radiance, 90 Skin rejuvenation, 387 Skin renjuvenation, mesotherapy for, 432–434 Skin smoothing, 63 Skin stinging, 385 Skin surface morphology, evaluation of, 168 Skin surface texture, treatment with t-AMCHA methyamide, 120 Skin thickness, 60, 425 Skin xerosis, 132 SLS, see Sodium lauryl sulfate Smell, 371 SOD, see Superoxide dismutase Sodium dependent vitamin C transporter (SVCT), 82 Sodium lactate, 171 Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), 117, 398 Sodium morrhuate, 315 Soft keratin, 32 Soft tissue augmentation evolution of fillers and, 473 long-lasting/semipermanent fillers, 476–479 permanent fillers, 479 temporary fillers, 473–476 Solar exposure, 185–186 Solar keratosis, 65 Solar lentigines, 338–339, 387 Solid crystal, 289 Solid microneedles, 436, 437–439 Solta lasers, 521 Sonicating electric toothbrushes, 180 Soybean oil, 93 Soybean plant, 93 Soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI), 94 Soy isoflavones, 102 Soy proteins, 94 isolate/hydrolysate, 93 Spectroscopic methods, for skin microstructure, 296 Spectrum descriptive analysis (SDA), 298 SPF, see Sun protection factor Sphingolipids, 134–135 Sphingosine, 128 Spider nevi, 453 Spider telangiectasias, 510 Spider veins, treatment of, 313 Spinocellular carcinoma, see Squamous cell carcinoma Spray-on tanning formulations, 175 Spritz, see Hairspray SPT, see Serine palmitoyl transferase Squamometry, 255 Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), 186, 193, 194, 214, 446 lesions, 96 Ssurface erythema, 248 Standard pyrithione zinc formulas, 253–254 Staphylococcus aureus, 160, 273, 395 Staphylococcus epidermidis, 273 Static electricity generators, 481 Stearalkonium hectorite, 269 Stereoisomers, 58 Sterilization, nail, 274 STI, see Soybean trypsin inhibitor Stick-on nail dressings, 273 Straight Caucasian hair, 390 Straightening, 244–245 Stratum corneum (SC), 28, 32, 38, 250, 302, 436 barrier function, 59–60, 117 ceramides, see Ceramides hydration, 378, 379 lipid composition, 132 of microneedles, 439 sphingolipid, structure, 384 urokinase activity in, 118 Stratum corneum’s surface, 295–296 Streptococcal-derived fillers, 474 Streptococcus thermophilus, 134 Striae, 530–531 Styling problems, 243 Styling products, 245–246 Subcutaneous fat, 535–536, 539, 546 layer, 259 Subepidermal nonechogenic band (SENEB), 387 Sulfur, 365 Sunburn cells, 64–65 Sun protection, 386 Sun protection factor (SPF), 186, 195 Sunscreen, 186–187, 194–196 activity, 175 human factors in, 196–197 ultraviolet radiation, 193–194 Superficial basal cell carcinoma, 445–446 Superficial peelings, 365 Superficial thrombophlebitis, 316–317 Superoxide dismutase (SOD), 80–82, 84 in kinetin, 113 Suppuration, 371 Suprabasal keratinocytes, 88 Surface corneocyte integrity, 296 Surface nail damage, 281 Surface washing procedures, nail plate, 34, 36 Surgical ligation, 317–318 Surgical subcision, 311 SVCT, see Sodium dependent vitamin C transporter Sweat secretion rates, 5–7 Syncope, 456 Synergistic compositions, 62 t-AMCHA, see trans-4-(aminomethyl) cyclohexane carboxylic acid t-AMCHA methylamide, 119–120 Tantalizing clues, 50 Tape strippings, stratum corneum, 124, 131, 133 TAPS, see Tetracetylphytosphingosine Tartaric acid, 57 TAS, see Terminal amino silicones Tattoos, 456 Tavaborole, 157 Tazarotene, 332, 362–363 TCHM, see Traditional Chinese herbal medicine TE, see Telogen effluvium Tea tree oil, 155–156 Teflon nail, 276, 277 Telangiectasia vein, 510 epidemiology, 312 sclerotherapy/endovenous chemoablation techniques, 313–317 venous anatomy and physiology of, 313 Telangiectatic matting, 316 Telogen effluvium (TE), 413 Temporary fillers, 473–476 Tensile strength, of hair, 393 TEP, see Transepithelial potential Terminal amino silicones (TAS), 238 Terminal hair shaft, 228 Test products of behind-the-knee test, 551 Test reactions to ingredients, 303 Tetracetylphytosphingosine (TAPS), 134 TEWL, see Transepidermal water loss Textured cloths, 179 593 TF resin, see Tosylamide/formaldehyde resin Thermal sensation for skin, 11 Thermocouple device, 451 Thermography, 309 Thermoplastic resin, 271 Thigh circumference measurement, 309 Thimble-shaped finger, 279 Thinning of nail plate, 278 Thioctic acid, 333 Thiol antioxidants, 84 Thiol retention activity, 104 Thixotropic systems, 269 Thulium 1927-nm wavelength, 522 Tight braids, 393 Timed spot freeze technique, 450–451 Tissue engineering, 490 Tissue-type plasminogen activator (tPA), 118 α-Tocopherol, 81–85 Tocopherols, molecular structures of, 201 Toenails, 267 Toluenesulfonamide/formaldehyde resin (TSFR), 268 Top coats, 269–271 Topical antibiotics, 172 Topical keratolytics, 360 Tosylamide/formaldehyde resin (TF), 268 Toxicology, of body lotions adverse reactions, 304–305 adverse skin effects, 301–304 lotion composition, 300–301 skin condition, 301 tPA, see Tissue-type plasminogen activator Traction alopecia, 393 Traditional Chinese herbal medicine (TCHM), 161 Traditional pulsed dye laser, 512 Tranexamic acid, 332 trans-4-(aminomethyl) cyclohexane carboxylic acid (t-AMCHA), 117–118 TranScreen-NTM, 33 Transcutaneous electrotherapy, 482 Transdermal drug delivery, 436 Transepidermal penetration, 506 Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), 378, 398–401, 552 biological background, 28 measurement of, 28–29, 169 parameter in skin research, 30 skin, 29 Transepithelial potential (TEP), 483 Traumatic injuries, nail, 273–274 Traumatic thermal burn scars, 529 Treatment algorithm for actinic keratosis, 215, 216 Tretinoin, 172, 332, 362 Trichloracetic acid, 505–507 Trichophyton rubrum, 155–158 TrichoScan®, 391, 416 Triethanolamine, 273 Triglycerides, 289 TRP-1, see Tyrosinase-related protein Trypsin inhibitory activity, of nondenatured soy, 103 Tryptophan fluorescence, 90 TSFR, see Toluenesulfonamide/ formaldehyde resin Twelve-week placebo-controlled anti-aging study, 494 Tyndall effect, 475 Tyrosinase activity, potent inhibitors of, 144 Tyrosinase-related protein (TRP-1), 331 Ultra-low intensity electricity therapy, 482 Ultrasensitive vibrating probe technique, 484 Ultrasonography, 309 Ultrasound (US), 309, 387 594 INDEX Ultraviolet A (UVA), 193–196 Ultraviolet B (UVB), 193–196 Ultraviolet-induced damage, reduction of, 106 Ultraviolet (UV) radiation, 193–194 Ultraviolet radiation (UVR), 80, 82–84 mechanisms of, 185 Under-eye wrinkles, 90 Ungual drug permeability, limitations of, 33 Unilateral treatment, cryolipolysis, 544 United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), 182 United States, hand and body lotions in, 287, 288 Unstable electron transfer, 76 uPA, see Urokinase-type plasminogen activator Upper arm treatment, cryolipolysis, 544 Upper face, 462–464 Urea hydrates, 171 Urokinase activity in dry skin, 117–120 in skin aging, 120–122 Urokinase-type plasminogen activator (uPA), 118 Urticaria, 313 US, see Ultrasound USDA, see United States Department of Agriculture Use of testing, assess adverse reactions, 304–305 UVA, see Ultraviolet A UVA/UVB protection, 106 UVB, see Ultraviolet B UVB-induced skin damage, reduction in, 104 UV bulbs, 278 UV-cured (meth)acrylic nails, 281 UV-curing gels, 279–280 UV gel polish/manicure, 270, 280–281 UV gels, 281 UV nail lamps, 220 proper polymerization, 220–221 safety of, 221–223 UV nail lights vs natural sunlight, 223 UV penetration, 278 UVR, see Ultraviolet radiation UV radiation, see Ultraviolet radiation Vaginal dryness, 426 Validated assessment scales (VAS), 380–381 Varicose vein historical aspects, 312 modern minimally invasive surgical approaches for, 317–318 venous anatomy and physiology of, 313 VAS, see Validated assessment scales Vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), 104 Vascular lesions, 453–454, 510–511 Vascular stasis, 452 Vasoactive response, 49 Vasovagal symptoms, cryolipolysis, 542 VEGF, see Vascular endothelial growth factor Velasmooth, 310 Vellus hair, 228, 391 Venule-derived telangiectasias, 510 Verrucae vulgares, see Warts Very long chain fatty acids (VLCFA), 127 Vicks® VapoRub, 156–157 Videodermoscopy, 391 Villus hair, 396 Vinyl-based masks, 180–181 Viral infection, actinic keratoses, 214 Viral warts, 454–455 Viscosity modifiers, 269 Visible light–induced skin oxidative stress, reduction in, 105 Visible light, protection from, 188–189 Visioscan® VC98, 168, 296 Vistabel®, 459 Vistabex®, 459 Vitamin B12, 158–159, 163 Vitamin C, 83, 199–200 with ferulic acid, 203–204 with vitamin E, 202–203 Vitamin D, 187 Vitamin E, 83, 200–202 selenium with, 206–207 vitamin C with, 202–203 Vitamins, 170, 188 VLCFA, see Very long chain fatty acids Vocal anesthesia, 448 Volume control of hair health, 241, 243–244 Vulva, 49 Vulvar atrophy, 426 Warts, 63–64, 273 Water-based nail varnishes, 270 Water content (WC), 399, 401–404 of skin, 297, 384 Water-soluble polymers, 290 Water vapor, 29 Wattage, 220–222 Waxes, 246 Wax masks, 180 WC, see Water content Weathering, process of, 232 Wettability, skin, 169 Winter xerosis, 131–132 Wound healing enhancement, 489–490 Wounding epidermis, plasmin, 118 Wrinkle, 380 development, 380–381 Wrinkles, 65 aspect of aged skin, 259–260 compared to surounding skin, 260–261 implications for treatment of, 262–263 Xenon halogens, 443 Xerosis, see Dry skin Zeatin, 113 ZPT, see Pyrithione zinc ... Lane Department of Surgery, Division of Dermatology, Department of Internal Medicine, Mercer University School of Medicine, Macon, Georgia; and Division of Dermatology Department of Medicine, The... Poorna Weerasinghe Department of Dermatology, University of Melbourne, Melbourne, Australia Robert A Weiss Department of Dermatology, University of Maryland School of Medicine, Baltimore, Marylandand;... San Mateo, Department of Dermatology, University Hospital Hotel Dieu, University of Cambridge, Cambridge, United Kingdom Rania Elkeeb Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Francisco,