KNITTING TECHNOLOGY A comprehensive handbook and practical guide Third edition David J Spencer TECHNOMIC PUBLISHING CO., INC LANCASTER • BASEL Cambridge England Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Abington Cambridge CB1 6AH, England www.woodhead-publishing.com Published in North and South America by Technomic Publishing Company Inc 851 New Holland Avenue, Box 3535 Lancaster, Pennsylvania 17604 USA First published 1983, Pergamon Press Reprinted with corrections 1985 and 1986 Second edition 1989 Reprinted 1991, 1993 Reprinted by Woodhead Publishing Limited, 1996, 1998 Third edition 2001, Woodhead Publishing Limited and Technomic Publishing Company Inc © 1989, 2001, David J Spencer The author has asserted his moral rights This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the author and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials Neither the author nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers The consent of Woodhead Publishing Ltd and Technomic Publishing Company Inc does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale Specific permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Ltd or Technomic Publishing Company Inc for such copying Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation, without intent to infringe British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress Woodhead Publishing ISBN 85573 333 Technomic Publishing Company ISBN 1-58716-121-4 Cover design by The ColourStudio Typeset by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong Printed by T J International, Cornwall, England The author, David J Spencer, C Text, FTI, ACFI, recently retired as a senior lecturer in Textile and Knitting Technology at De Montfort University, Leicester He has been an examiner and moderator in the Manufacture of Hosiery and Knitted Goods for the City and Guilds of London Institute He has written numerous technical articles and is Technical Editor of the journal Knitting International and is Contributing Editor of ATA Journal and China Textile Journal He is Chairman of The Textile Institute Knitting Terms and Definitions Committee He obtained his initial industrial experience with Corah of Leicester, who were then world leaders in the application of knitting technology [Photo by Oakham Photographic.] To my wife, SHIRLEY ANN Figures 1.1 1.2 1.3 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.7 5.8 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 Interweaving Intertwining and twisting Interlooping The Madonna knitting Christ’s seamless garment Hand pin knitting The action of frame knitting Hand frame (c 1820) Warp knitted fabric on the moon Basic knitting action of a needle Main parts of the bearded needle Main features of the latch needle Knitting action of the latch needle Compound needle Open-stem slide needle Action of the loop-forming sinker Action of the knock-over sinker Loop forming by warp guides Simple hand-turned Griswold type machine Intermeshing points of a needle loop Overlapping and underlapping (warp knitting) The underlap shog The closed lap The open lap The knitted stitch An impossible intermeshing Face- and reverse-meshed loops Weft knitting Warp knitting Overlock seaming Cup-seaming 2 8 10 11 13 20 21 23 25 27 27 32 33 33 36 38 39 40 41 41 42 43 44 48 49 50 50 xvi Figures 6.5 Warp-knitted car upholstery 6.6 Loop extension and recovery 6.7 Yarn flow in knitted structure 6.8 Weft knitted loop transfer 6.9 The plating relationship of two yarns 6.10 Plating in weft knitting 6.11 Plating in warp knitting 6.12 The movement of loops to form open work 6.13 Bra and briefs made from elastic raschel lace fabric 7.1 The technical face of plain weft knitted fabric 7.2 The technical back of plain weft knitted fabric 7.3 The three-dimensional structure of plain weft knitting 7.4 Cross-section of knitting head of a single jersey machine 7.5 Knitting cycle of a single jersey latch needle machine 7.6 Sinker timing on a single jersey machine 7.7 Structure of ¥ rib 7.8 Face and reverse loop wales in ¥ rib 7.9 Rib set-outs 7.10 Knitting action of a circular rib machine 7.11 Needle cam timing for a circular rib machine 7.12 Synchronised timing 7.13 Delayed timing 7.14 Interlock fabric structure 7.15 Knitting interlock 7.16 Interlock cam system 7.17 Purl knitting using sliders 7.18 Purl fabric structure 7.19 Purl needle transfer action 7.20 Purl notation 7.21 Basket purl with a collecting course 7.22 Basket purl without a collecting course 7.23 Purl needle transfer using spring loaded cams 8.1 Sequential knitting 8.2 Mechanically controlled flat knitting machines 8.3 Mechanically controlled circular knitting machines 8.4 Mechanically controlled hosiery machines 9.1 Float stitch produced on a latch needle machine 9.2 Technical face of float stitch 9.3 Float plated fabric 9.4 Tuck stitch produced on a latch needle machine 9.5 Technical face of tuck stitch fabric 9.6 Commencing knitting on an empty rib needle 9.7 Successive tucks and floats on the same rib needle 9.8 Floating across four adjacent plain needles 9.9 Tucking over four adjacent plain needles 9.10 Selective tucking in the hook 9.11 Three step needle selection 9.12 Tucking on the latch 10.1 An attractive use of horizontal striping 51 53 53 53 56 57 57 58 59 61 62 62 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 72 73 75 76 77 77 79 79 80 80 81 84 86 88 88 91 92 93 94 95 95 96 97 97 98 98 99 101 10.2 10.3 10.4 10.5 10.6 10.7 10.8 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 11.5 11.6 11.7 11.8 11.9 11.10 11.11 11.12 12.1 12.2 12.3 12.4 12.5 12.6 13.1 13.2 13.3 13.4 13.5 13.6 13.7 13.8 13.9 13.10 13.11 13.12 13.13 14.1 14.2 14.3 14.4 14.5 14.6 Figures xvii Yarn carrier positioning for intarsia Examples of intarsia designs knitted on an electronic V-bed machine Single jersey jacquard Accordion fabric Rib jacquard Three colour jacquard with birds eye backing Combined links-links and three colour float jacquard Miss, knit and tuck using different butt lengths Multi-cam track needle butt control Mirror repeat needle selection The development of design areas using selection devices Fixed pattern key selection Geometric selection using Brinton trick wheels Disc selection Change of presser position from one revolution to the next Three-step needle selection using a pattern wheel The building of pattern areas over a number of machine revolutions using pattern wheel selection Piezo-electronic rib jacquard machine Moratronic needle selection Electronic sampling machine Knitting patterns and programmes generated using automatic routines Simulated knit package MKS knitting system for Windows Linked windows options of fabric view and technical view The FF programme inserts the control columns and, using the existing jacquard, generates the Sintral programme, which contains all the necessary data for machine control Twill effects Single jersey hopsack structure and notation Double jersey non-jacquard fabrics Further double jersey fabrics Twill and poplin double jersey Single and double blister Double pique Milano, punto di Roma and evermonte Tuck lace Tunnel inlay Faneknit inlay device The modern circular single jersey fabric machine The Relanit contra knitting action Three-thread fleecy loop structure Three-thread fleecy knitting cycle Fleecy interlock Horizontal ribs with an ottoman effect on two-tone towelling Action of the plush sinker Sliver high pile machine 102 103 106 107 108 109 110 116 117 119 121 122 124 126 127 128 129 131 132 135 137 138 140 142 143 146 147 149 150 151 152 153 153 154 155 155 156 158 162 163 164 165 166 168 xviii Figures 14.7 15.1 15.2 15.3 15.4 15.5 15.6 16.1 16.2 16.3 16.4 16.5 16.6 16.7 16.8 16.9 16.10 16.11 16.12 16.13 16.14 17.1 17.2 17.3 17.4 17.5 17.6 18.1 18.2 18.3 18.4 18.5 18.6 18.7 18.8 19.1 19.2 19.3 19.4 19.5 19.6 19.7 Wrap patterning Plain loop transfer stitch À jour knupf Knitting on empty rib needle followed by rib loop transfer Rib loop transfer on a modern V-bed machine Pelerine stitch Pelerine transfer action Turned welt on latch needle machine Turned welt on bearded needle machine Accordion welt top Tubular welt Roll welt Racked welt Wale fashioning (narrowing) Wale fashioning (widening) Integrally shaped rib garment pieces Modern integral garment technology Full-fashioned shaping calculation Garment shaping by holding loops on a V-bed flat machine Stitch shaping Stitch-shaped thermal underwear Sixteen-head plain straight bar frame with conveyer Knitting head of the straight bar frame Movement of knitting elements Fashioning points The fashioning action Rib to plain Passage of yarn from package to yarn carrier Knitting action of V-bed flat machine Cam system of simple hand flat Yarn carrier positioning Half-cardigan loop structure Full cardigan Racked rib Aran knit sweater Mechanical jacquard selection on a V-bed flat machine Shimatronic SEC cam system Knitting elements Presser cams Action of the presser foot Multi-gauge technique garment (a) Split stitch using latch needles (b) Split stitch using compound needles The FIRST 123 three-system, short-bed computerised flat knitting machine Tubular plain knitting on a flat machine Tubular rib knitted on arranged needle sequence Half gauge tubular rib Comparison of the new slide needle with the latch needle 19.8 19.9 19.10 19.11 19.12 169 172 173 174 175 177 178 180 180 180 182 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 190 191 192 195 197 198 201 202 205 210 212 213 217 218 219 220 222 227 228 229 229 233 235 236 237 238 239 239 240 Figures 19.13 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 21.1 21.2 21.3 21.4 21.5 21.6 22.1 22.2 22.3 23.1 23.2 23.3 23.4 23.5 23.6 23.7 23.8 24.1 24.2 24.3 24.4 24.5 24.6 24.7 24.8 24.9 24.10 24.11 25.1 25.2 25.3 25.4 25.5 25.6 25.7 25.8 The TFK driving system RTR circular garment length revolving cam-box rib machine Close-up of RTR revolving cam-box Cam system elements of a circular purl machine Part of a purl garment knitting sequence Cylinder cam system of an RTR rib loop transfer machine The RTR dial cam system Body-size seamless garment Close-up view of the knitting head of a 4-feeder seamless hose machine Notation of ¥ micromesh Double cylinder half hose machine Heel produced by reciprocation Lin Toe toe-closing on the machine GL one-piece tights Trip-tape positive feed Warp let-off regulator Model of weft-knitted loop formation indicating the mechanism of ‘robbing-back’ Guide bar lapping movement Tricot machine HKS 2-3 Guide bar swinging and shogging mechanism Warp knitting lapping and chain notation Overlap/underlap variations Open and closed lap pillar stitches Atlas lapping Face and back of single guide bar warp knitted fabric Knitting elements in a bearded needle tricot machine Cross-section of a bearded needle tricot machine Knitting cycle of a bearded needle tricot machine Knitting elements in a latch needle raschel machine Cross-section of a latch needle raschel machine Knitting action of a single needle bar latch needle raschel machine Knitting action of a compound needle tricot machine The crochet machine Knitting elements in a crochet machine Knitting action of a crochet machine A range of crochet fabrics Notations of two guide bar warp knitted fabrics Plating position of the front guide bar underlap Plating appearance on the technical back of a two guide bar fabric Plating position of the front guide bar overlap Plating appearance on the technical face of a two guide bar fabric Technical back of sharkskin fabric Technical back of queenscord fabric Technical back of raised loop velour xix 242 245 246 248 249 251 252 254 257 261 263 265 269 272 276 278 283 286 287 288 292 293 294 295 296 299 299 300 302 303 304 306 307 308 309 310 314 315 315 316 316 318 318 320 xx Figures 26.1 26.2 26.3 26.4 26.5 26.6 27.1 27.2 27.3 27.4 27.5 27.6 27.7 27.8 27.9 27.10 27.11 28.1 28.2 28.3 28.4 28.5 28.6 28.7 28.8 28.9 28.10 28.11 28.12 28.13 28.14 28.15 28.16 28.17 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.7 29.8 29.9 30.1 30.2 30.3 Miss-lapping Structure of a balanced net Notation of ¥ sandfly net Pin net loop structure and lapping diagram Loop structure and notation of sandfly net Three wale wide cord The action of inlay in warp knitting Arrangement of guide bars in a fall-plate raschel Fall-plate raised out of action Fall-plate lowered into action Simple fall-plate loop structure Knitting fall-plate designs Weft insertion principles Magazine weft insertion Cut presser lapping movement Shell stitch Cut presser knop fabric Multi-guide bar raschel lace machine Automatic overlap guide bar drive Raschel lace guide bar nesting Embroidery patterning The summary drive (SU) electronic patterning mechanism 28 gauge (E 14) pillar inlay using outline threads 36 gauge (E 18) standard gauge 48 gauge (E 24) fine gauge Raschel lace five course tulle with inlay Three bar marquisette Three bar voile Elastane fabrics Jacquard inlay deflection units Mechanical jacquard apparatus Jacquard segment of 16 or 32 segments and jacquard element Leaver’s lace effect Textronic MRPJ 59/1/24 raschel lace machine Double needle bar lapping notations Loop diagram of double faced double needle bar fabric Knitting action of bearded needle simplex machine Knitting action of a double needle bar raschel Lapping diagram and notation of a seamless tube knitted on a double needle bar raschel Principle of knitting tights on a double needle bar raschel Fruit and vegetable sacks knitted on double needle bar raschel machines Notation for a three guide bar cut plush Notation for a five guide bar cut plush EQT full-body competition swimsuit Directionally-structured fibres (DSF) geotextile constructions Principle of the LIBA multi-axial magazine weft insertion warp knitting machine 323 324 325 325 326 326 328 331 332 332 332 332 334 335 336 337 338 341 342 343 343 345 346 346 347 348 349 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 358 359 360 362 364 366 367 368 368 371 373 374