Sách dạy làm bánh Mon cher éclair

mon cher éclair AND OTHER BEAUTIFUL PASTRIES, INCLUDING CREAM PUFFS, PROFITEROLES, AND GOUGÈRES Charity Ferreira photographs by JOSEPH DE LEO CHRONICLE BOOKS SAN FRANCISCO acknowledgments This was a fun book to write, and I was extraordinarily lucky to have been able to draw on the expertise and endless patience of my friend Debbie Hughes, who tasted batch after batch of chocolate pastry cream until I was satisfied I had the glossy, rich version I was going for A big thankyou goes to my testers and tasters, especially those of you who stayed until the wee hours eating endless gougères (you know who you are!) I especially want to thank Marlene Kawahata and Maryanne Welton, who meticulously tested recipes and provided invaluable insights and suggestions And last but not least, thank you Dylan, for your enthusiasm and your help, and for requesting éclairs for your birthday dessert! Text copyright © 2016 by Charity Ferreira Photographs copyright © 2016 by Joseph De Leo All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher ISBN 978-1-4521-5072-7 (epub, mobi) Library of Congress Cataloging‑in-Publication Data available ISBN 978-1-4521-4566-2 (pb) Designed by Vanessa Dina Photo assisting by Kazuhito Sakuma Food styling by Liza Jernow Food assisting by Kristin Miglore Typesetting by Frank Brayton Chronicle Books LLC 680 Second Street San Francisco, California 94107 www.chroniclebooks.com Introduction tools mixing shaping 10 baking 10 filling and glazing 11 storing 12 Pâte Choux 13 Éclairs 14 Classic Éclairs 17 Double Chocolate Éclairs 19 Mini Mocha Éclairs 20 Nutella Éclairs 23 Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs 24 Salted-Peanut Éclairs 27 Butterscotch-Bourbon Éclairs 28 Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs 31 Raspberry Crush Éclairs 33 Coconut-Mango Éclairs 36 Meyer Lemon–Cream Éclairs 39 Kaffir Lime Éclairs 41 Tangerine-Caramel Éclairs 45 Saffron-Rose Éclairs 47 Violet–White Chocolate Éclairs 51 Maple-Bacon Éclairs 53 Churro Éclairs 57 Black-and-White Éclairs 59 Matcha-Chocolate Éclairs 63 Frozen Éclairs 65 Profiteroles and Cream Puffs 66 Classic Caramel Profiteroles 68 Chocolate Profiteroles 70 Cacao Nib Profiteroles 73 Blackberry-Mascarpone Cream Puffs New Orleans Cream Puffs 76 Summer-Pudding Puffs 79 Caramel–Banana Split Puffs 81 Baked Choux Donuts 84 Pumpkin Chouquettes 85 Courtesans au Chocolat 87 75 Gougères and Savory Snacks 90 Classic Gougères 92 Pumpkin-Gruyère Gougères 93 Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères 95 French Onion Gougères 97 Caprese Gougères 99 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens 100 Salt Cod Gougères 101 Gougères with Cured Anchovies 103 Picnic Gougères 104 Sharp-Cheddar Gougères with Ham 105 Manchego Gougères with Ham 107 Gougères with Roast Beef 109 Index 110 introduction ingredients, and the basic proportions are so easy to remember that if you make it a few times, you’ll know it by heart If you’re the kind of baker who loves exploring kitchen science, there are more than a dozen small variables that can affect how your choux pastry will come out, from the moisture in the air to the hot spots in your oven And if you just want to make éclairs without bothering about the details, the good news is that, if you follow a few simple guidelines, you’ll be able to make successful éclairs on your very first attempt If you’ve never tried making éclairs or haven’t made them in years, it’s time! The éclairs you remember have been nudged into the twenty-first century and are now bursting with bold new flavors and bright colors Éclairs and their cousins—profiteroles, cream puffs, and savory gougères—are made from pâte choux, a dough that is the basis of many French pastries When baked, it has a crisp yet tender exterior and an airy, slightly eggy interior that is made to hold rich, creamy filling While pâte choux–based pastries look elegant, they’re not at all difficult to make at home tools To make pâte choux, you’ll need a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan and a sturdy wooden spoon A flexible, heatproof spatula is also handy for scraping every last bit of the batter from the pan The formula for successful pâte choux reminds me of that old-fashioned American recipe for 1-2-3 pound cake that was so called because it was so easy to remember: cup of butter, cups of sugar, and cups of flour Pâte choux has just a few If you have a kitchen scale, use one when you’re making pâte choux to check that mon cher éclair your cup plus Tbsp of flour weighs 140 grams And if you don’t have a kitchen scale, you’ll just fine if you stir up your flour a bit first, spoon lightly packed flour into the measuring cup, and level off the top You may have seen choux recipes that call for an electric stand mixer, but I prefer to simply mix by hand It’s one less bowl to wash afterward, and the choux really doesn’t require the heavy beating that makes a mixer necessary I use a pastry bag with a ¾-in [2-cm] round tip for piping out éclairs and profiteroles and for filling them with cream You can buy single-use plastic pastry bags that work well for this purpose at kitchen-supply stores You could also spoon the choux or the filling into a zip-top plastic bag and snip off a corner For baking your creations, you’ll need a couple of heavy-duty baking sheets and baking parchment to line them Choux pastries left to cool on a baking sheet turn out just fine, but, if you prefer, you can transfer the baked pastries to a wire-mesh cooling rack When it comes to making silky smooth pastry creams, citrus curds, and fruit sauces, you’ll want a fine-mesh strainer with a handle for straining your finished product You can buy this kind of strainer at cooking-supply stores, and you’ll be surprised at what an indispensable tool it becomes! I reach for mine often, whether I’m draining cooked pasta or fishing blanched veggies out of boiling water mixing The process for mixing pâte choux is simple Bring water and butter to a boil, remove it from the heat, and stir in your flour, sugar, and salt with a wooden spoon until it comes together in a smooth mass At this point you’ll return the pan to the heat and cook the mixture for to minutes to cook off some of the moisture Then you’ll remove the mixture from the heat and let it cool for minutes before adding your eggs Beating in the eggs is where many cooks are deterred, because when you add the first egg and start stirring, the mixture will look like a separated, curdled mess It’s not ruined! Keep stirring the mixture vigorously with the wooden spoon, and you’ll see that the egg will incorporate smoothly Do this for all four eggs, one at a time, and by the end you will have a smooth, glossy mixture that’s somewhere between a thick batter and a very soft dough Give the mixture a good vigorous stirring for a few seconds after the fourth egg is incorporated The amount you beat the pâte choux at this stage affects how much your pastries will puff up in the oven Beating the mixture extensively after the eggs are incorporated will give you éclairs that are puffier than the long, slender baton-shaped éclairs sold in French pastry shops Not beating the choux enough will result in éclairs that not change much from the shape introduction in which you piped them, and they will have a dense interior Beating the mixture vigorously for a few seconds will result in éclairs that are airy and lofty with a slender, defined shape—in the words of Goldilocks: Just right Note that if you’re making éclairs for a crowd, it’s best to mix up each batch of choux separately, rather than doubling the recipe The bigger the batch, the harder it is to incorporate the eggs by hand and get consistent results shaping In this book you’ll find recipes for éclairs, mini éclairs, profiteroles, cream puffs, and gougères A medium piping bag fitted with a plain ¾-in [2-cm] tip is the easiest way to make consistently shaped pastries If you don’t have a pastry bag, a 1-gl [27-by27-cm] plastic zip-top bag makes a fine makeshift piping bag, used either with or without a metal pastry tip To fill a pastry bag with choux, snip off the pointed end of the bag and slide in the metal pastry tip Fold down the edge of the bag over your hand, like a collar, and use your other hand to spoon in the choux Unfold the edge of the bag and twist the bag closed from the top, squeezing the choux down to the tip of the bag If you’re using a zip-top bag, spoon in the choux in a similar fashion Twist the bag closed from the top and then use scissors to snip about ½ in [12 mm] off one bottom corner You want an opening that is around ¾ in [2 cm] Begin piping out your choux by squeezing from the top as you twist the top of the bag further, forcing the choux down and out the opening To pipe éclairs: Hold the tip at a 45-degree angle to the baking sheet and pipe out batons that are about ¾ in [2 cm] thick and 4 in [10 cm] long It will likely take you a few tries to get the hang of piping perfectly uniform éclairs, but remember that once they’re filled and glazed, every éclair is beautiful! dŽ ƉŝƉĞ ƉƌŽĮƚĞƌŽůĞƐ ĂŶĚ ŐŽƵŐğƌĞƐ͗ Hold the tip at a 90-degree angle to the baking sheet and pipe round mounds Use a finger dipped in water to press down any point or peak at the top for a smooth, rounded puff Pumpkin Chouquettes (page 85), at 1 in [2.5 cm] in diameter, are the smallest puffs in this book Profiteroles are piped in mounds that are about 1½ in [4 cm] in diameter, and gougères are a little bigger at about 2 in [5 cm] Finally, desserts that consist of a single cream puff, like SummerPudding Puffs (page 79) or Caramel– Banana Split Puffs (page 81), are piped in mounds that are about 2½ in [6 cm] across baking Start your choux shells in a hot, 400°F [200°C] oven and bake for 15 minutes Lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] and bake them for another 15 minutes Remove the shells from the oven and give them a few pricks with a sharp paring mon cher éclair 10 ¾ lb [340 g] dried salt cod Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Fresh lemon juice, as needed ¾ lb [340 g] Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ cup [60 ml] heavy (whipping) cream, warm recipe Classic Gougères (page 92) or garlic cloves, smashed and peeled Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Salt Cod Gougères These puffs, filled with a creamy garlicky mixture of salt cod and mashed potato, are best served warm As an alternative, you can spoon the finished salt-cod mixture into a shallow oiled casserole dish, drizzle the top with a little olive oil, and bake at 350°F [180°C] until the center is hot and the edges are lightly browned Serve it with a platter of warm Classic Gougères and let everyone fill their own puffs Because the cooked salt cod is pleasantly salty on its own, be sure to taste the finished mixture before seasoning it with any additional salt Add the cod to the bowl with the potatoes and garlic Add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream and mash coarsely with a potato masher or a fork Add the cream and beat the mixture until it is well blended and has the texture of creamy mashed potatoes If you need to, add some of the reserved potato cooking water Taste the mixture and add salt, pepper, or lemon juice, if needed Rinse the salt cod under cold running water and cut it into five or six pieces Put the pieces in a medium bowl and add enough cold water to cover Refrigerate for 24 hours, changing the water twice In a colander, drain the cod and discard the soaking liquid Rinse the colander and place over a clean bowl Set aside In a large, deep frying pan over medium heat, bring about 2 in [5 cm] water to a simmer and poach the cod gently until tender, 8 to 12 minutes With a slotted spatula, remove the cod from the water and pat dry with paper towels Remove and discard skin and bones Set the cod aside Cut each gougère in half horizontally Spoon a small mound of the cod mixture into one half, and top with the empty half Repeat to fill the remaining gougères.` Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the potatoes, garlic, and enough water to cover to a boil and cook for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender Drain the vegetables in the colander over the reserved bowl Transfer the vegetables to another clean bowl; set aside the cooking water gougères and savory snacks 101 ¾ cup [170 g] mayonnaise to Tbsp fresh lemon juice ½ cup [15 g] packed fresh parsley leaves Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper garlic clove recipe Classic Gougères (page 92) roasted, jarred piquillo peppers (small Spanish roasted red peppers), cut in strips oz [170 g] boquerones (marinated white anchovies) Gougères with Cured Anchovies A quick parsley aioli dresses these marinated anchovy sandwiches, which make me think of snacks and drinks by the water in Northern California, the home of oily, delicious little fish like herrings, anchovies, and sardines In a blender or food processor, combine the mayonnaise, parsley leaves, garlic, and Tbsp of the lemon juice and purée until smooth Transfer the aioli to a bowl and season with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice Cut each gougère in half horizontally Spoon a dollop of aioli into one half, and top with a roasted pepper strip or two and an anchovy fillet Place the empty half on the filled bottom Repeat to fill the remaining gougères Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES gougères and savory snacks 103 oz [230 g] tuna packed in olive oil recipe Classic Gougères (page 92) 10 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced 24 Niçoise or other cured black olives, halved and pitted lemons, quartered Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling (optional) small bunch frisée, rinsed and trimmed into 2‑in [5-cm] pieces Picnic Gougères These gougère sandwiches are filled with oil-packed tuna, hard-boiled egg, and Niçoise olives—a quintessential French combo The tuna and the olives are salty, so you likely won’t need to season this filling with additional salt, but taste the first assembled gougère and then decide Likewise, depending on how moist the tuna is, you may want to drizzle the filling with a few drops of olive oil Drain the excess oil from the tuna, leaving just enough to keep the fish moist Put the tuna in a bowl and break apart the chunks with a fork Cut each gougère in half horizontally Spoon about Tbsp of the tuna, a slice of egg, two olive halves, and a sprig or two of frisée into one half, and drizzle with a few drops of lemon juice and a few drops of olive oil, if desired Place the empty half on the filled bottom Repeat to fill the remaining gougères Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES mon cher éclair 104 cup plus Tbsp [140 g] all-purpose flour ¼ tsp sea salt cup [240 ml] water Tbsp [85 g] butter eggs ¾ cup [85 g] shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese 12 oz [340 g] ham, cut into thin slices 20 to 24 cornichons or gherkins (small pickles), sliced lengthwise Tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese About ¼ cup [60 g] whole-grain mustard Sharp-Cheddar Gougères with Ham Depending on the time of day, you could serve these as a light meal or as a substantial appetizer And, should you happen to find yourself hosting a craft beer tasting, this is the snack to make Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper for a few seconds after the last egg is incorporated Stir in both cheeses In a small bowl, stir together the flour and salt Set aside Pipe out or spoon 2-in [5-cm] mounds of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1½ in [4 cm] of space between them In a medium pan over medium heat, heat the water and butter When the butter is melted, bring the mixture to a simmer Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour mixture Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together in a smooth mass Return the pan to low heat and cook the mixture for about 1 minute, stirring continuously to keep it from scorching Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool for 5 minutes Add one egg and mix vigorously with the wooden spoon until it is incorporated The mixture will look separated and curdled after you add the egg, but don’t be deterred! Just keep mixing, and it will come together smoothly Add the remaining eggs, one at a time, beating well after each After the fourth egg, you will have a smooth, shiny pâte choux mixture Beat the mixture vigorously Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for to seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes Using a paring knife, prick each gougère a few times close to the bottom on the side Return the gougères to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes Let cool completely or just until cool enough to handle Cut each gougère in half horizontally Spread with mustard on one half, and top with a slice of ham and half a pickle Place the empty half on the filled bottom Repeat to fill the remaining gougères Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES gougères and savory snacks 105 cup plus Tbsp [140 g] all-purpose flour Tbsp [85g] unsalted butter, cut into chunks Tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese ½ tsp Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón) eggs oz [170 g] quince paste or fig jam Flaky sea salt ½ cup [55 g] shredded Manchego cheese 12 oz [340 g] thinly sliced Serrano ham cup [240 ml] water Manchego Gougères with Ham These puffs beg to be enjoyed with a glass of dry white wine and a simply dressed green salad If you can’t find quince paste, fig jam is a tasty alternative Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C] Line two baking sheets with parchment paper for a few seconds after the last egg is incorporated Stir in both cheeses In a small bowl, stir together the flour, paprika, and ¼ tsp salt Set aside Pipe out or spoon 2-in [5-cm] mounds of the dough onto the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1½ in [4 cm] of space between them In a medium pan over medium heat, heat the water and butter When the butter is melted, bring the mixture to a simmer Remove the pan from the heat and add the flour mixture Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together in a smooth mass Return the pan to low heat and cook the mixture for about 1 minute, stirring continuously to keep it from scorching Remove the pan from the heat and let the mixture cool for 5 minutes Add one egg and mix vigorously with the wooden spoon until it is incorporated The mixture will look separated and curdled after you add the egg, but don’t be deterred! Just keep mixing, and it will come together smoothly Add the remaining eggs, one at a time, beating well after each After the fourth egg, you will have a smooth, shiny pâte choux mixture Beat the mixture vigorously Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F [190°C] (keep the oven door open for 3 to seconds to bring down the oven temperature; if you’re baking two sheets at once, switch their position in the oven) and bake for another 15 minutes Using a paring knife, prick each gougère a few times close to the bottom on the side Return the gougères to the oven and bake for another 10 minutes Let cool completely or just until cool enough to handle Cut each gougère in half horizontally Place a thin slice of quince paste into one half, and top with a folded slice or two of ham Place the empty half on the filled bottom Repeat to fill the remaining gougères Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES gougères and savory snacks 107 ¾ cup [170 g] mayonnaise 12 oz [340 g] thinly sliced roast beef ½ to tsp ground bottled horseradish oz [115 g] baby arugula recipe Classic Gougères (page 92) Gougères with Roast Beef This hearty sandwich combo is great for picnics or cocktail parties If you prefer bigger sandwiches, pipe twelve gougères that are 2½ in [6 cm] in diameter and double the amount of roast beef In a small bowl, mix the mayonnaise and ½ tsp of the horseradish Taste and add the remaining ½ tsp horseradish, if desired Set aside Cut the roast beef slices lengthwise into halves or thirds Set aside Cut each gougère in half horizontally Spread the mayonnaise mixture into one half, and top with one or two roast beef slices and a few arugula leaves Place the empty half on the filled bottom Repeat to fill the remaining gougères Serve immediately MAKES ABOUT 24 FILLED GOUGÈRES gougères and savory snacks 109 Index A Almonds Strawberry-Almond Filling, 31 Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs, 31–32 Anchovies, Cured, Gougères with, 103 B Bacon Éclairs, Maple-, 53–55 Banana Split Puffs, Caramel–, 81–83 Beef, Roast, Gougères with, 109 Black-and-White Éclairs, 59–61 Blackberries Tangerine-Caramel Éclairs, 45–46 Chouquettes, Pumpkin, 85–86 Tangerine-Caramel Pastry Cream, 45 Churro Éclairs, 57–58 Coconut Cheddar cheese Coconut-Mango Éclairs, 36–37 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Sharp-Cheddar Gougères with Ham, 105 Coconut-Mango Pastry Cream, 36 Coffee See also Chicory coffee Caramel–Banana Split Puffs, 81–83 Cheese See individual cheeses Espresso-Rum Caramel Sauce, 81–83 Chicory coffee Mini Mocha Éclairs, 20–21 Chicory-Coffee Pastry Cream, 76 Mocha Pastry Cream, 20 New Orleans Cream Puffs, 76–77 Compote, Fruit, 79–80 Chocolate Baked Choux Donuts, 84 Courtesans au Chocolat, 87–89 Blackberry-Mascarpone Cream Puffs, 75 Black-and-White Éclairs, 59–61 Blackberry Sauce, 75 Cacao Nib Profiteroles, 73–74 Fruit Compote, 79–80 Chocolate Glaze, 17–18 Summer-Pudding Puffs, 79–80 Chocolate-Orange Sauce, 73–74 Blackberry-Mascarpone Cream Puffs, 75 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 87 Caramel–Banana Split Puffs, 81–83 Fruit Compote, 79–80 Chocolate Pâte Choux, 13 Courtesans au Chocolat, 87–89 Summer-Pudding Puffs, 79–80 Chocolate Profiteroles, 70 New Orleans Cream Puffs, 76–77 Chocolate Sauce, 70 piping, 10 Chocolate Whipped Cream, 19 storing, 12 Churro Éclairs, 57–58 Summer-Pudding Puffs, 79–80 Blueberries Blue cheese Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères, 95 Butterscotch Cream cheese Salted-Peanut Éclairs, 27 Cream puffs Classic Éclairs, 17–18 Butterscotch-Bourbon Éclairs, 28–29 Courtesans au Chocolat, 87–89 D Butterscotch Pastry Cream, 28 Double Chocolate Éclairs, 19 Donuts, Baked Choux, 84 Frozen Éclair Pops, 65 C Frozen Éclairs, 65 Cacao Nib Profiteroles, 73–74 Cannoli Cream, 73 Matcha-Chocolate Éclairs, 63–64 E Éclairs Black-and-White Éclairs, 59–61 Caprese Gougères, 99 Mexican-Chocolate Pastry Cream, 57 Caramel Mini Mocha Éclairs, 20–21 Churro Éclairs, 57–58 Caramel–Banana Split Puffs, 81–83 Mocha Pastry Cream, 20 Classic Éclairs, 17–18 Caramel Sauce, 68–69 Nutella Éclairs, 23 Coconut-Mango Éclairs, 36–37 Classic Caramel Profiteroles, 68–69 Nutella Glaze, 23 Double Chocolate Éclairs, 19 Espresso-Rum Caramel Sauce, 81–83 Salted-Peanut Éclairs, 27 filling, 11 Salted-Caramel Pastry Cream, 68 Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs, 24–25 Frozen Éclair Pops, 65 mon cher éclair 110 Butterscotch-Bourbon Éclairs, 28–29 Frozen Éclairs, 65 Frozen Éclairs, 65 glazing, 11 Fruit Compote, 79–80 Kaffir Lime Éclairs, 41–43 Maple-Bacon Éclairs, 53–55 Matcha-Chocolate Éclairs, 63–64 Meyer Lemon–Cream Éclairs, 39–40 Mini Mocha Éclairs, 20–21 Nutella Éclairs, 23 piping, 10 Raspberry Crush Éclairs, 33–35 Saffron-Rose Éclairs, 47–49 Salted-Peanut Éclairs, 27 storing, 12 Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs, 31–32 Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs, 24–25 Tangerine-Caramel Éclairs, 45–46 Violet–White Chocolate Éclairs, 51–52 Eggs beating in, 9–10 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Picnic Gougères, 104 Espresso See Coffee F Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Pumpkin-Gruyère Gougères, 93 G Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères, 95 Glazes Chocolate Glaze, 17–18 Colored Powdered-Sugar Glaze, 87–89 H Ham Lemon Glaze, 39–40 Manchego Gougères with Ham, 107 Lime Glaze, 36–37 Sharp-Cheddar Gougères with Ham, 105 Maple Glaze, 53–55 Matcha Glaze, 63–64 Hazelnuts See Nutella Nutella Glaze, 23 I Powdered-Sugar Glaze, 59–61 Ice cream Raspberry Glaze, 33–35 Caramel–Banana Split Puffs, 81–83 Rose Glaze, 47–49 Tangerine Glaze, 45–46 Chocolate Profiteroles, 70 Icing, Royal, 87–89 tips for, 11 Vanilla-Bourbon Glaze, 28–29 L Vanilla Glaze, 31 Lemons Lemon-Cream Filling, 39 Violet Glaze, 51–52 Lemon Glaze, 39–40 Goat cheese Meyer Lemon–Cream Éclairs, 39–40 French Onion Gougères, 97 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Limes Kaffir Lime Éclairs, 41–43 Gougères Fillings See also Pastry cream Kaffir Lime Pastry Cream, 41 Caprese Gougères, 99 Lime Glaze, 36–37 Cannoli Cream, 73 Classic Gougères, 92 Chocolate Whipped Cream, 19 French Onion Gougères, 97 Lemon-Cream Filling, 39 Nutella Filling, 23 Gougères with Cured Anchovies, 103 Peanut Butter Filling, 27 Gougères with Roast Beef, 109 Coconut-Mango Éclairs, 36–37 Raspberry Cream Filling, 33 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Coconut-Mango Pastry Cream, 36 Strawberry-Almond Filling, 31 tips for, 11 Vanilla–Crème Fraîche Filling, 79–80 Vanilla Mascarpone Filling, 59 Fish Manchego Gougères with Ham, 107 Picnic Gougères, 104 piping, 10 Picnic Gougères, 104 Salt Cod Gougères, 101 Food colors, 49 French Onion Gougères, 97 Frozen Éclair Pops, 65 Manchego Gougères with Ham, 107 Mangoes cutting, 37 Maple Maple-Bacon Éclairs, 53–55 Maple Glaze, 53–55 Pumpkin-Gruyère Gougères, 93 Salt Cod Gougères, 101 Gougères with Cured Anchovies, 103 M Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères, 95 Sharp-Cheddar Gougères with Ham, 105 Maple Pastry Cream, 53 Mascarpone cheese Black-and-White Éclairs, 59–61 Blackberry-Mascarpone Cream Puffs, 75 Raspberry Crush Éclairs, 33–35 storing, 12 Gruyère cheese Classic Gougères, 92 index 111 Salted-Peanut Éclairs, 27 Vanilla Mascarpone Filling, 59 Matcha recipe, 13 Matcha-Chocolate Éclairs, 63–64 Matcha Glaze, 63–64 tools for making, 8–9 Spinach Peanuts Mexican-Chocolate Pastry Cream, 57 Salted-Peanut Éclairs, 27 Mini Mocha Éclairs, 20–21 Picnic Gougères, 104 Mocha Pastry Cream, 20 Pops, Frozen Éclair, 65 Mozzarella cheese Potatoes Caprese Gougères, 99 Strawberries Strawberry-Almond Filling, 31 Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs, 31–32 Summer-Pudding Puffs, 79–80 Salt Cod Gougères, 101 T Profiteroles Cacao Nib Profiteroles, 73–74 New Orleans Cream Puffs, 76–77 Tahini Chocolate Profiteroles, 70 Nutella Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs, 24–25 Classic Caramel Profiteroles, 68–69 Nutella Éclairs, 23 piping, 10 Nutella Filling, 23 Nutella Glaze, 23 Gougères with Scrambled Eggs and Greens, 100 Peanut Butter Filling, 27 Matcha Pastry Cream, 63 N Sea Salt and Cracked Black Pepper Gougères, 95 Tahini Pastry Cream, 24 Tangerines storing, 12 Tangerine-Caramel Éclairs, 45–46 Pumpkin Tangerine-Caramel Pastry Cream, 45 Pumpkin Chouquettes, 85–86 O Pumpkin-Gruyère Gougères, 93 Onion Gougères, French, 97 Orange Sauce, Chocolate-, 73–74 Caprese Gougères, 99 R Tools, 8–9 Raspberries P Picnic Gougères, 104 Raspberry Cream Filling, 33 Butterscotch Pastry Cream, 28 Chicory-Coffee Pastry Cream, 76 Chocolate Pastry Cream, 87 Raspberry Crush Éclairs, 33–35 V Raspberry Glaze, 33–35 Vanilla Summer-Pudding Puffs, 79–80 Coconut-Mango Pastry Cream, 36 Ricotta cheese Maple Pastry Cream, 53 Matcha Pastry Cream, 63 Mexican-Chocolate Pastry Cream, 57 Tuna Fruit Compote, 79–80 Pastry cream Kaffir Lime Pastry Cream, 41 Tangerine Glaze, 45–46 Tomatoes Vanilla-Bean Pastry Cream, 17 Cacao Nib Profiteroles, 73–74 Vanilla-Bourbon Glaze, 28–29 Cannoli Cream, 73 Vanilla–Crème Fraîche Filling, 79–80 Rosewater Vanilla Glaze, 31 Rose Glaze, 47–49 Saffron-Rose Éclairs, 47–49 Mocha Pastry Cream, 20 Black-and-White Éclairs, 59–61 Vanilla Mascarpone Filling, 59 Violet Saffron Pastry Cream, 47 Royal Icing, 87–89 Violet Glaze, 51–52 Salted-Caramel Pastry Cream, 68 S Violet–White Chocolate Éclairs, 51–52 Tahini Pastry Cream, 24 Tangerine-Caramel Pastry Cream, 45 Vanilla-Bean Pastry Cream, 17 Violet–White Chocolate Pastry Cream, 51 Pâte Choux Saffron Saffron Pastry Cream, 47 Saffron-Rose Éclairs, 47–49 Salt Cod Gougères, 101 Violet–White Chocolate Pastry Cream, 51 W Whipped Cream, Chocolate, 19 Sauces baking, 10–11 Blackberry Sauce, 75 Chocolate Pâte Choux, 13 Caramel Sauce, 68–69 formula for, Chocolate-Orange Sauce, 73–74 mixing, 9–10 Chocolate Sauce, 70 Espresso-Rum Caramel Sauce, 81–83 mon cher éclair 112 White chocolate Violet–White Chocolate Éclairs, 51–52 Violet–White Chocolate Pastry Cream, 51 Charity Ferreira is a food writer and recipe developer whose work has appeared in Sunset and Bon Appétit magazines, as well as Los Angeles Times She is the author of several cookbooks, including Perfect Pops, Ice Cream Treats, and Peeps (all published by Chronicle Books) A graduate of the California Culinary Academy and a former pastry chef, she lives in Oakland, California Joseph De Leo is a San Francisco–based photographer whose work appears in many cookbooks, including The Cheesemonger’s Seasons and The Cheesemonger’s Kitchen (both published by Chronicle Books) Want More Chronicle Ebooks? Click Here! Get freebies, discounts, and more! ... Choux 13 Éclairs 14 Classic Éclairs 17 Double Chocolate Éclairs 19 Mini Mocha Éclairs 20 Nutella Éclairs 23 Tahini-Chocolate Éclairs 24 Salted-Peanut Éclairs 27 Butterscotch-Bourbon Éclairs 28... Strawberry-Amaretto Éclairs 31 Raspberry Crush Éclairs 33 Coconut-Mango Éclairs 36 Meyer Lemon–Cream Éclairs 39 Kaffir Lime Éclairs 41 Tangerine-Caramel Éclairs 45 Saffron-Rose Éclairs 47 Violet–White... Saffron-Rose Éclairs 47 Violet–White Chocolate Éclairs 51 Maple-Bacon Éclairs 53 Churro Éclairs 57 Black-and-White Éclairs 59 Matcha-Chocolate Éclairs 63 Frozen Éclairs 65 Profiteroles and Cream Puffs