DK Eyewitness Travel - Top 10 Paris 2011

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Square du Vert-Galant ME Pont Neuf GIS VO Square du Vert-Galant DU D SteChapelle 10 10 P C S 10 10 AR R V S FE RA IN IN OR G RU E DE DU GE Conciergerie S S PH AI R LO GE Pont au Change DE AU U L H O OR Palais de Justice DE E Q AI S Chõtelet IE QU AIS QU R VE SER PA L I UD NE DE E RU RU NE E D SL E E GU L AY PLACE DAUPHINE T GA HAR N E EN DE DE E IE GE QUAI BATEAUX PLACE DU R OR U E C O POMPES PONT NEUF B E RTH RUE D RU TOP 10 PARIS A C Marchộ aux Fleu RU E DE L L 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Must-see museums & galleries Best restaurants in each area Best shows & live music venues Loveliest parks & gardens Best cafộ terraces Great walks & itineraries Best hotels for every budget Most fun places for children Best areas to shop or browse Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING TOP 10 PARIS MIKE GERRARD & DONNA DAILEY EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Contents Left Glass Pyramid, Musộe du Louvre Right Crypt vaults, Sacrộ-Coeur Contents Paris Top 10 Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd Musộe du Louvre Musộe dOrsay 12 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Eiffel Tower 16 Copyright 2002, 2011 â Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Notre-Dame 18 Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 Sacrộ-Coeur 22 Arc de Triomphe 24 Centre Georges Pompidou 26 Panthộon 28 Sainte-Chapelle 30 Hụtel des Invalides 32 Museums 34 Art Galleries 36 Parks & Gardens 38 Places of Worship 40 Historic Buildings 42 Moments in History 44 First American Edition, 2002 11 12 13 14 10 All rights reserved Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress ISSN 1479-344X ISBN: 978-0-75666-933-1 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied All 10 are, in the editors opinion, of roughly equal merit Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with French usage; i.e the rst oor is the oor above ground level The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL, or email: travelguides@dk.com Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front 4Corners Images: SIME /Giovanni Simeone main; DK Images: Max Alexander clb Spine DK Images: Robert ODea b Back DK Images: cra; Max Alexander ca; Eric Meacher cla Novels set in Paris 46 Riverfront Sights 48 Quarters Walks in Paris 50 Champs-Elysộes Quarter 102 Cafộs and Bars 52 Shops and Markets 54 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 110 Festivals and Events 56 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 118 Entertainment Venues 58 Childrens Attractions 60 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 128 Jazz Clubs 62 Chaillot Quarter 134 Places to Eat 64 Montmartre and Pigalle 140 Greater Paris 150 Around Town 94 Streetsmart Ile de la Citộ and Ile St-Louis Tuileries and Opộra Contents Left Rose window, Notre-Dame Right Stone carvings, Arc de Triomphe 68 Practical Information 160 Beaubourg and Les Halles 74 Places to Stay 172 Marais and The Bastille General Index 180 84 Left Bois de Boulogne Right Montmartre PARIS TOP 10 Musộe du Louvre 811 Musộe dOrsay 1215 Eiffel Tower 1617 Notre-Dame 1821 Sacrộ-Coeur 2223 Arc de Triomphe 2425 Centre Georges Pompidou 2627 The Panthộon 2829 Sainte-Chapelle 3031 Hụtel des Invalides 3233 Top Ten of Everything 3465 PARIS TOP 10 Paris Highlights 67 du ! Musộe Louvre The worlds largest museum unsurprisingly also contains one of the worlds nest collections of art and antiquities (up to 1848) To complete the superlatives, the building was once Frances largest royal palace (see pp811) :DJUDP '(   (& 5& 1BSD PODFBV (6 18 $/ (6 % 28 /(9$5 ' +( $9 ( 2// ,*1 5% +$86 (6 60$1  ( 0$ $9( 18 $8 < : ( ( 02 17 03 * $, 6 1( -B


4FJO F /<  58('( * (5  $, 6 '( ( $9 ( 6( 95 (6   '(  ( 58 58 (  ' (  9 $ Notre-Dame This great Gothic cathedral, founded on the site of a Gallo-Roman temple, was completed in 1334 and is a repository of French art and history It also represents the geographical heart of France (see pp1821) Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com  $8 *,5 ' (* 85 ,1 (9$5 % / 3$, / 5$6 5( 6 67 )) '( & ( ' $1 ( $5  )   (9 Some six million visitors a year ascend to the top of this most famous Paris landmark for the spectacular views It was erected for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 (see pp1617) $ , $ $, 0$  Eiffel Tower 48 ,QYDOLGHV '(6 (// 48 8/  (1 58 3/$&('(/$ &21&25'( $9('( 72859 ,//( '( *5  % '    ' (    , 9$ / , 6 (6 8(7 ( 6( 264 1BSD
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EF BST ' 3/$&('(/$ 0$'(/$,1( ( /< / , ( , ( % (  turned a former railway station into one of the worlds leading art galleries (above) and is, for many, reason alone to visit Paris (see pp1215) Ê %' dOrsay @ Musộe This remarkable conversion has (1  ' $< 48$, 18( $9  %2 $1  25 $9( %5 $9 +$ 5&( +BSEJOT
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EFT 5VJMFSJFT 7 8,/ 58 (5,( ( 6  48 4 ' $,'8 92 /7 ( /2 $,5 ( 89  5( 9$ (0 %/9' 32 ,6 62 1 ,( 5(  8/( ' 58( %' %/ 709' $5 75 ( %2 77( 5* (77 $< ( (9 )$< ) 8/  $ %2 /$ / 58( 7$ ( ( 58 8( (1 58 arch, celebrating battle victories, stands proudly at the top of the ChampsElysộes and, along with the Eiffel Tower, is one of the citys most enduring images (see pp245) (&+28$57 % '  %28 % ' ' 5'2 ( /$ % $ 67 ,/ /( /,& (52&+ %'  & '' ( 9$ '   ) $ % $5 28 7, 1 * ' ( '8  ) $ % '(1 , 6 85* 0RQWPDUWUH % '  Paris Top 10 front of this monumental whitedomed basilica in Montmartre affords one of the nest free views over Paris (see pp223)  NJMFT  LN  ( Sainte-Chapelle Called a gateway to heaven, this splendid medieval church (left) was built to house the relics collected by St Louis on his many Crusades (see pp3031) * Panthộon The great and the good of France are buried in the Panthộon (above), including Voltaire and Victor Hugo (see pp289) des Invalides ) Hụtel The glowing golden dome of the Hụtel des Invalides church (right) is unmistakable across the rooftops of Paris (see pp323) For guided tours in Paris See p165 Paris Top 10 Musộe du Louvre One of the worlds most impressive museums, the Louvre contains some 35,000 priceless objects Built as a fortress by King Philippe-Auguste in 1190, Charles V (136480) was the first king to make it his home In the 16th century Franỗois I replaced it with a Renaissance-style palace and founded the royal art collection with 12 paintings from Italy Revolutionaries opened the collection to the public in 1793 Shortly after, Napoleon renovated the Louvre as a museum Top 10 Sights Musộe du Louvre faỗade Try out Le Cafộ Marly in the Richelieu Wing or the food court in Carrousel du Louvre For a special option make a reservation at the Grand Louvre restaurant below the pyramid Beat the queues and buy tickets online or at machine kiosks at the Porte des Lions entrance at the west end of the Denon WIng (except Friday) Musộe du Louvre, 75001 Map L2 01 40 20 53 17 www.louvre.fr Open 9am6pm Mon, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am10pm Wed & Fri; closed Tue & public hols Admission 9.50 (subject to change); reduced price of after 6pm Wed & Fri; free 1st Sun of month; under 18s free; under 26s (EU only) free Fri after 6pm Partial disabled access 8 Venus de Milo Mona Lisa Glass Pyramid Marly Horses The Raft of the Medusa The Winged Victory of Samothrace The Lacemaker Slaves Medieval Moats Perraults Colonnade de Milo ! Venus The positioning of this statue, dramatically lit at the end of a hallway, enhances its beauty Believed to represent the goddess Aphrodite, it dates from the end of the 2nd century BC and was discovered on the Greek island of Milos in 1820 @ Mona Lisa Arguably the most famous painting in the world, Leonardos portrait of the woman with the enigmatic smile (see p11) has been beautifully restored Visit early or late in the day For more Paris museums See pp345 Ê Glass Pyramid The unmistakable pyramid, designed by I.M Pei, became the Louvres new entrance in 1989 Stainless steel tubes form the 21-m-high (69-ft) frame (below) Horses $ Marly Coustous rearing horses being restrained by horse-tamers were sculpted in 1745 for Louis XIVs Chõteau de Marly Replicas stand near the Place de la Concorde Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges under 100 100150 150250 250350 over 350 Hotels in Great Locations Edouard VII du Jeu de ! Hụtel $ Hụtel An elegant boutique Paume hotel with eclectic design features and oodles of charm Most rooms have the bonus of breathtaking balcony views over the spectacular Opộra National de Paris Garnier (see p97) d 39 avenue de lOpộra, 75002 Map E3 01 42 61 56 90 www edouard7hotel.com info@ edouard7hotel.com No disabled access Tucked away on the Ile St-Louis is this beautiful old building with beams Rooms are small but the friendly atmosphere makes up for everything d 54 rue St-Louis-en-lIle, 75004 Map Q5 01 43 26 14 18 www.jeudepaume hotel.com info@jeude paumehotel.com Closed mid-JunAug No disabled access @ Brighton Enjoy the rue de des % Hụtel Deux-Iles Rivoli without paying the usual prices associated with this location This old hotel was completely refurbished in 2008, ask for one of the rooms with a view over the Tuileries opposite (see p95), or of the Eiffel Tower (see pp1617) d 218 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Map K1 01 47 03 61 61 www.espritde-france.com No disabled access To stay on one of the Seine islands is a treat, and to it in this hotel is a double treat The bedrooms may be small, due to the buildings 17th-century origins, but the cheerful decor, the intimacy (only 17 rooms) and the hidden patio with its owers and fountain more than compensate d 59 rue St-Louis-en-lIle, 75004 Map Q5 01 43 26 13 35 www.hoteldes deuxiles.com No disabled access Ê Bristol Prices reect the luxury standards and location, close to the Faubourg St-Honorộ Rooms are large and tted out with antique furniture and spacious, marble bathrooms, as well as all the latest modern facilities There is also a Michelin threestar restaurant d 112 rue du Faubourg-St-Honorộ, 75008 Map D3 01 53 43 43 00 www.lebristolparis com resa@lebristolparis com dOrsay ^ Hụtel Art-lovers will enjoy this hotel, right by the magnicent Musộe dOrsay (see pp1215) The hotels modern bright colours are strikingly offset with antique furniture here and there Several more expensive suites are also available d 93 rue de Lille, 75007 Map J2 01 47 05 85 54 www.esprit-de-france com du & Hụtel Panthộon A small, family-run hotel set in an 18th-century building right by the Panthộon (see pp289) d 19 place du Panthộon, 75005 Map N6 01 43 54 32 95 www.hoteldu pantheon.com reservation @hoteldupantheon.com Streetsmart Left Brighton Right Hụtel du Panthộon de la * Pavillon Reine The best hotel in the Marais, right on the place des Vosages (see pp84 7) Lovely rooms and a quiet court yard d 28 pl des Vosages, 75003 Map R3 01 40 29 19 19 www pavillon-de-la-reine.com contact@pavillon-de-lareine.com de la Place ( Hụtel du Louvre A hotel that provides its guests with a superb view of the Louvre (see pp1013) The rooms cleverly mix the historical with the modern d 21 rue des Prờtres-St-GermainlAuxerrois, 75001 Map M2 01 42 33 78 68 www.esprit-de-france com No disabled access Castille ) Hụtel This sumptuous, elegant hotel near place Vendụme also boasts a renowned Italian restaurant, LAssaggio d 33 rue Cambon, 75001 Map E3 01 44 58 44 58 www.castille.com hotel@ castille.com Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com 173 Streetsmart Left Hụtel Favart Centre Aviatic Hụtel Right Hụtel dAubusson Romantic Hotels dAubusson ! Hụtel The rooms in this 17th-century building are spacious and many of them have beams In winter there is a log re in the guests lounge d 33 rue Dauphine, 75006 Map M4 01 43 29 43 43 www.hoteldaubusson com Bellechasse % Hụtel The fabulously with modern bedrooms Mirrored bathrooms and beams in the rst-oor rooms make for a romantic setting d rue Marivaux, 75002 Map E3 01 42 97 59 83 www.hotel-parisfavart.com opulent rooms at this hotel were designed by Christian Lacroix Special packages, such as Pour Une Nuit, include a 3pm checkout, champagne and other indulgent treats The hotel is located just a few minutes walk from the Musộe dOrsay d rue de Bellechasse, 75007 Map J2 01 45 50 22 31 www.lebellechasse.com No disabled access Hụtel Ê Aviatic A stylish hotel that Hotel ^ Five Fibre-optic lighting bubbles with the delightful atmosphere of the Left Bank Ask them to pack a picnic for you for a romantic stroll around the nearby Jardin du Luxembourg (see p119) d 105 rue de Vaugirad, 75006 Map D6 01 53 63 25 50 www.aviatic.fr welcome@aviatic.fr No disabled access creates a glittering atmosphere in many of this boutique hotels 24 rooms Guests can choose from nine colours, ranging from tranquil black to cheerful plumand-pink, and ve olfactory ambiances by Esteban The Five has already established a reputation as the perfect lovers getaway d rue Flatters, 75005 01 43 31 74 21 www.thevehotel com Favart @ Hụtel A venerable hotel $ LHụtel This hotel has come up in the world since Oscar Wilde expired here, having uttered the famous words, My wallpaper and I are ghting a duel to the death One or the other of us has to go. Fashionable as it has become, with stylish decor by Jacques Garcia and a Michelin-starred 174 restaurant, the hotel still has a quirky charm d 13 rue des Beaux-Arts, 75006 Map E4 01 44 41 99 00 www.l-hotel.com Costes & Hụtel Book a rst-oor room overlooking the courtyard for a romantic place to stay Low lighting and dark furniture add to the mood, as does the Oriental-style swimming pool and trendy restaurant d 239 rue StHonorộ, 75001 Map E3 01 42 44 50 00 hotel costes@wanadoo.fr Relais Christine * Le This 17th-century mansion offers a backstreet haven from the StGermain bustle Opt for a terraced room overlooking the secluded garden and take breakfast in the vaulted room which was once an abbeys refectory d rue Christine, 75006 Map M4 01 40 51 60 80 www.relais-christine com No disabled access Lancaster ( Hụtel Pampering is paid for here, but the investment pays off with huge rooms in a 19th-century mansion just a stroll from the Champs-Elysộes d rue de Berri, 75008 Map C3 01 40 76 40 76 www hotel-lancaster.fr reservations@hotellancaster.fr No disabled access Caron de ) Hụtel Beaumarchais Wooden beams, candlelight, a log re, authentic decor and sparkling crystal chandeliers evoke the essence of 18thcentury romance Rooms are beautiful and guests are truly pampered d 12 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 Map R2 01 42 72 34 12 www.caronde beaumarchais.com hotel@ carondebeaumarchais.com No disabled access Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges under 100 100150 150250 250350 over 350 Budget Hotels des ! Hụtel Grandes ẫcoles Amour $ Hụtel Situated just below Caulaincourt & Le Square Hụtel A secret hideaway in a lovely part of Paris, the two buildings that make up this 51-room hotel are set around a garden The rooms are attractively decorated and the location is perfect as a base for exploring the Latin Quarter d 75 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 75005 Map P6 01 43 26 79 23 www.hotel-grandesecoles.com No air conditioning Montmartre, this extremely trendy, vintage hotel and bistro has medium-sized rooms decorated with cutting edge photography and pop art (bare bottoms and more much are in evidence) As it is on a quiet residential street, guests can experience Parisian Bohemia without the usual crowds d rue Navarin, 75009 Map F1 01 48 78 31 80 Part budget hotel, part hostel, with a friendly atmosphere and access to the sights of Montmartre d square Caulaincourt, 75018 Map E1 01 46 06 46 06 www caulaincourt.com No air conditioning No disabled access Lenox @ Hụtel Montparnasse Hụtel % Grand Lộvờque The ower-lled Lenox is close to Montparnasse cemetery (see p151) The rooms are clean, with modern facilities Some are on the small side so ask for a larger room if you dont like being too cramped: there is also a top-oor suite d 15 rue Delambre, 75014 Map D6 01 43 35 34 50 www hotellenox.com No disabled access The only thing grand about this hotel is its name, but it remains a favourite for budget accommodation in Paris Almost all rooms have fans, phone, TV, hairdryer and even a modem socket d 29 rue Cler, 75007 Map C4 01 47 05 49 15 www.hotelleveque.com info@hotelleveque.com No disabled access SaintÊ Hụtel Andrộ-des-Arts This charmingly modest hotel offers ancient exposed beams and a Left Bank location at bargain prices The rooms are tiny, but for a cheap bolt-hole and truly Parisian Bohemian feel, it cant be beaten d 66 rue St-Andrộ-des-Arts, 75006 Map M4 01 43 26 96 16 hsaintand@wanadoo.fr No air conditioning No disabled access de Lille ^ Hụtel If you want a cheap central hotel, they come no cheaper nor more central than the Lille, just a minutes walk from the Louvre The guest rooms are fairly simple, but breakfast is served in an atmospheric, stonevaulted cellar room There is no elevator d rue du Pộlican, 75001 Map M2 01 42 33 33 42 No credit cards No air conditioning No disabled access Streetsmart Left Hụtel des Grandes ẫcoles Right Hụtel Lenox Montparnasse du * Hụtel Commerce This simple, clean hotel offers basic rooms, some with private shower, and a shared cooking area d 14 rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviốve, 75005 Map N5 01 43 54 89 69 www.commerceparishotel com No air conditioning No disabled access du Globe ( Hụtel Set in a 17th-century building near the Jardin du Luxembourg This 14-room hotel offers friendly, personal service d 15 rue des Quatre Vents, 75006 Map E6 01 43 26 35 50 www.hotel-duglobe.fr No air conditioning No disabled access Hụtel ) Ermitage A wonderful familyrun hotel in Montmartre Some rooms have views over the city, others overlook a garden, and the furniture is antique or retro d 24 rue Lamarck, 75018 Map E1 01 42 64 79 22 www.ermitage sacrecoeur.fr No credit cards No air conditioning No disabled access Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning 175 Streetsmart Left Hụtel de Seine Right Hụtel de Banville Medium-Priced Hotels Rộgence ẫtoile de Seine ! La $ Hụtel Hụtel Timbered rooms Very reasonably priced for its standard and location (a short walk from the Arc de Triomphe), the Rộgence has plush public areas and modern bedrooms with TVs, direct-dial phones, mini-bars and safe d 24 ave Carnot, 75017 Map B2 01 58 05 42 42 www.laregenceetoile.com No disabled access dAngleterre @ Hụtel Hemingway once stayed in this longestablished hotel Most rooms are a good size with high ceilings, and some are decorated with antiques The standard rooms are small so book a superior one at extra cost d 44 rue Jacob, 75006 Map N5 01 42 60 34 72 www.hoteldangleterre.com No air conditioning No disabled access Saint Ê LAbbaye Germain This 16th-century former convent has a cobbled courtyard in a quiet location near St-Sulpice (see p41) It is perfect for exploring much of the Left Bank, and is a haven to return to afterwards The 44 rooms are all different, the best being the top-oor suites with their rooftop views d 10 rue Cassette, 75006 Map K5 01 45 44 38 11 www.hotel-abbaye.com hotel.abbaye@wanadoo.fr No disabled access 176 indicate the old-world nature of this mansion, close to the Jardin du Luxembourg Some rooms have balconies d 52 rue de Seine, 75006 Map L5 01 46 34 22 80 www hotel-de-seine.com No disabled access Notre-Dame % Hụtel Maợtre Albert Situated in a quiet street opposite Notre-Dame, close to the Latin quarter and the Marais, this hotel has comfortable rooms with beams and stone walls or oral prints d 19 rue Maitre-Albert, 75005 Map N5 01 43 26 79 00 www.hotel-parisnotredame.com No disabled access Le Clos ^ Hụtel Mộdicis Built in 1773 for the Mộdici family, ancient beams and artworks now combine with modern design Rooms are small, but compensations are the garden, adjacent bar, and the location in a quiet street off boulevard St-Michel d 56 rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 Map M5 01 43 29 10 80 www.closmedicis.com message@closmedicis com room suitable for disabled guests des Trois & Hotel Poussins This hotel is in the Pigalle area but is well away from the sleazy side Some rooms are small, but the higher they go, the better the view d 15 rue Clauzel, 75009 Map E1 01 53 32 81 81 www.les3 poussins.com h3p@ les3poussins.com Saint-Merry * Hụtel This hotel is unlike any other, for instance, one room even sports its own ying buttress Carved bedboards and other features ensure an historical experience d 78 rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Map P2 01 42 78 14 15 www.hotelmarais com hotelstmerry@ wanadoo.fr No disabled access Saint-Paul ( Hụtel This 17th-century building has antique furniture, beams and some four-poster beds Several rooms overlook the Jardin du Luxembourg (see p119) d 43 rue Monsieur-lePrince, 75006 Map M5 01 43 26 98 64 www.hotelsaintpaul paris.com contact@hotel saintpaulparis.com de Banville ) Hụtel This wonderful 1928 mansion may be away from the centre but it oozes class and is lled with antiques Several bedrooms have fourposter beds d 166 blvd Berthier, 75017 Metro Porte de Clichy 01 42 67 70 16 www.hotel banville.fr Note: Unless other-wise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges under 100 100150 150250 250350 over 350 Famous-Name Hotels Esmeralda ! Hụtel The proximity to Chopin $ Hụtel Hidden away in one Notre-Dame gives the hotel its name Ask for a room with a cathedral view, and be prepared for a Bohemian atmosphere The area is noisy and the rooms are not modernized, though most have en suite bathrooms d rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, 75005 Map P4 01 43 54 19 20 No air conditioning No disabled access of the citys passages (see p50), the Chopin opened in 1846 At this price dont expect the best facilities, but it is a pleasant place to stay and the rooms are comfortable Ask for an upper room for more light d 46 passage Jouffroy, 10 blvd Montmartre, 75009 Map F2 01 47 70 58 10 www hotelchopin.fr No air conditioning No disabled access Lord @ Rộsidence Byron An inexpensive hotel in an expensive area, with a pleasant courtyard garden for summer breakfasts Top oor rooms are cheaper because the elevator doesnt go that far, but they have good views d rue Chateaubriand, 75008 Map C2 01 43 59 89 98 www.hotel-lordbyron.fr lordbyron@hotellordbyron.fr No disabled access Mont% Hụtel parnasse Daguerre Ê Balzac Fashionably chic, Flaubert ^ Hụtel Terrific value, slightly this luxurious hotel has a restaurant and a basement bar, both popular with the locals The hotels 57 rooms and 13 apartments are simply but tastefully decorated, with terraced suites offering great views of the Eiffel Tower d rue Balzac, 75008 Map C2 01 44 35 18 00 www hotelbalzac.com reservation-balzac@ jjwhotels.com out of the centre but not far from the metro New owners have smartened it up and the lush garden is a delight Room sizes vary d 19 rue Rennequin, 75017 Map C1 01 46 22 44 35 www.hotelflaubert com paris@hotelflaubert com Surprisingly smart hotel at the cheaper end of the market Rooms are brightly decorated, if a little small, but some of the upper ones have views of Sacrộ-Coeur and others overlook the patio garden d 94 rue Daguerre, 75014 Metro Gaợtộ 01 43 22 43 54 www hotelmontparnasse daguerre.com Baudelaire & Hụtel Opộra The French writer Baudelaire lived here in 1854, and today it makes a good bargain find in this central area Rooms are brightly decorated, although most of them are small d 61 rue St-Anne, 75002 Map H4 01 42 97 50 62 www hotel-baudelaire.com resa@hotel-baudelaire com No air conditioning No disabled access Streetsmart Left Hotel Rộsidence Lord Byron Right Hụtel Chopin Victor Hugo * Hụtel This long-established hotel has some delightful features, including a vegetable cart thats used for the buffet in the breakfast room d 19 rue Copernic, 75016 Map B3 01 45 53 76 01 www victorhugohotel.com paris@ victorhugohotel.com No disabled access Galileo ( Hụtel Tasteful decor and a walled garden, all just a short walk from the Arc de Triomphe d 54 rue Galilộe, 75008 Map B2 01 47 20 66 06 www galileo-paris-hotel.com No disabled access Hụtel ) Grand Jeanne dArc You could pass a whole weekend in Paris without wandering far from this well-equipped hotel, surrounded as it is by Marais attractions d rue de Jarente, 75004 Metro St-Paul 01 48 87 62 11 www.hoteljeanne darc.com information@ hoteljeannedarc.com No air conditioning No disabled access Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com 177 Streetsmart Left Hotel Square Centre Hụtel du Quai Voltaire Right Le Notre-Dame St-Michel Rooms with a View Bourgogne ! Hụtel et Montana Stylish hotel, with the Musộe dOrsay (see pp1215) and the Invalides close by Rooms on the top oor have views across the Seine Paintings line the walls, antique furniture and giltedged mirrors abound d rue de Bourgogne, 75007 Map D4 01 45 51 20 22 www.bourgognemontana.com No disabled access Hụtel @ Artus Indulge yourself in the food shops of the Rue de Buci (see p123), then indulge yourself even more back in this hotel especially if you have booked the suite with a Jacuzzi from which there are views of the Latin Quarter d 34 rue de Buci, 75006 Map L4 01 43 29 07 20 www.artushotel.com info@artushotel.com No disabled access Square Ê Hotel Ultra-chic boutique hotel with 22 rooms and views down the Seine The Zebra Square is a cool restaurant (see p139) d rue de Boulainvilliers, 75016 Map A5 01 44 14 91 90 www.hotelsquare.com reservation@hotelsquare com du Quai $ Hụtel Voltaire Impressionist artist Camille Pissarro (1831 178 1903) painted the view of the Seine and NotreDame visible from most of the guest rooms here Rooms are small, but the warm welcome and the location more than make up for that d 19 quai Voltaire, 75007 Map K2 01 42 61 50 91 www quaivoltaire.fr No air conditioning No disabled access Notre-Dame, the bright decor here makes up for the size of the rooms There are also three suites d quai St Michel, 75005 Map N4 01 43 54 20 43 www.parishotel-notredame.com hotel.lenotredame@ libertysurf.fr No disabled access des Grands % Hụtel Hommes The view of Notre-Dame from this 10-room hotel is arguably the best in Paris The decor is modern and the rooms are fairly spacious d 15 quai St-Michel, 75005 Map N4 01 43 54 81 16 www.rivesdenotredame com hotel@rivesde notredame.com No disabled access Great upper oor views of the Panthộon (see pp28 9) from this intimate 32room family hotel in an 18th-century house The rooms are reasonably sized d 17 pl du Panthộon, 75005 Map N6 01 46 34 19 60 www.hoteldes grandshommes.com No disabled access Hụtel ^ Terrass The Terrass has fabulous views over Paris which can be enjoyed from its rooftop terrace Most rooms in this early 19th-century building are now air-conditioned; all are comfortable There is a bar, restaurant and other facilities d 1214 rue Joseph-de-Maistre, 75018 Map E1 01 44 92 34 14 www.terrass-hotel com reservation@terrasshotel.com No disabled access Notre-Dame & Le St-Michel A great location right by the Seine with magnicent views of Rives de * Les Notre-Dame Rộgina ( Hụtel Across the rue de Rivoli from the Louvre (see pp811) with views of the Tuileries and the Louvre, this is a splendid old hotel d pl des Pyramides, 75001 Map K1 01 42 60 31 10 www regina-hotel.com Blu Le ) Radisson Metropolitan Five upper suites offer striking views onto the Eiffel Tower; the best has a giant bulls-eye window Lower-oor rooms have good, but less spectacular, balcony views d 10 place de Mexico, 75016 Map A3 01 56 90 40 04 www radissonblu.com Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning Price Categories For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges under 100 100150 150250 250350 over 350 Family-Friendly Hotels Baltimore ! Hụtel Part of the Accor $ Fleurie Children under 12 hotel chain and situated between the Trocadộro and the Arc de Triomphe, the Baltimore caters well for families with good facilities and a friendly attitude Rooms and suites are elegant d 88 bis avenue Klộber, 75016 Map B3 01 44 34 54 54 www accorhotels.com No disabled access sleeping in their parents room stay free in this smart but lively StGermain hotel A small charge is made for over 12s Satellite TV and PC connections in each room, and a huge buffet breakfast d 324 rue Grộgoire de Tours, 75006 Map L4 01 53 73 70 00 www hotel-de-eurie.fr bonjour@hotel-de-eurie.fr No disabled access St-Germain @ Relais A delightful hotel in a 17th-century town house right in the heart of the Left Bank The Musộe du Louvre, Musộe dOrsay and Notre-Dame cathedral are all within walking distance, and the Jardin du Luxembourg is nearby for when the children simply want to play in the park d carrefour de lOdộon, 75006 Map L4 01 43 29 12 05 www.hotel-paris-relaissaint-germain.com hotel rsg@wanadoo.fr No disabled access du Louvre Ê Relais Right by the Louvre, this great family hotel offers a self-catering apartment for ve, plus several family suites and communicating rooms, as well as a host of extras for small children d 19 rue des Prờtres-SaintGermain-lAuxerrois, 75001 Map M2 01 40 41 96 42 www.relaisdulouvre com contact@ relaisdulouvre.com No disabled access % Mộridien Montparnasse Facilities here include family rooms with two double beds Childrens entertainment is laid on during Sunday brunch d 19 rue du Commandant Renộ Mouchotte, 75014 Map D6 01 44 36 44 36 www.lemeridienmontparnasse.com de ^ Hụtel lUniversitộ In this 17th-century StGermain mansion, there is a discount for children sharing a room with their parents d 22 rue de lUniversitộ, 75007 Map K3 01 42 61 09 39 www.hoteluniversite com hoteluniversite@ wanadoo.fr No disabled access des Arts & Hụtel A good choice for families on a budget, with triple rooms and cots available The hotel is in one of Pariss passages (see p50) For Paris for children See pp6061 d Citộ Bergốre, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Map F2 01 42 46 73 30 www.hoteldesarts fr contact@hoteldesarts.fr No air conditioning No disabled access Streetsmart Left Relais St-Germain Right Fleurie * Hụtel St-Jacques Numerous Left Bank attractions are near this comfortable hotel with triple-bed rooms and cots available All rooms are en suite and have TV d 35 rue des ẫcoles, 75005 Map N5 01 44 07 45 45 www.parishotel-stjacques.com hotelsaintjacques@ wanadoo.fr No disabled access Hụtel Residence Romance Malesherbes ( A collection of intriguing studios makes up for the slightly out-of-centre location Parc Monceau and a good market are nearby d 129 rue Cardinet, 75017 Map D1 01 44 15 85 00 www.hotelromance.com hotel@ hotel-romance.com No air conditioning No disabled access Ibis Bastille ) Hotel Opộra Right in the heart of the Bastille district, this nofrills chain hotel offers triple-bed rooms or doubles with a childs bed Rooms are cheaper at weekends d 15 rue Breguet, 75011 Map H5 01 49 29 20 20 www ibishotel.com 179 General Index Au Pied de Cochon 78, 81 Bissonnet, Andrộ 89 Au Printemps 54 Bistro Melac 53 A Au Trappiste 79 Bistrot dEustache 78 A Nous Paris 163 Au Verger de la Madeleine 98 Bistrot les Sans-Culottes 93 A la Petite Fabrique 89 Autour de Midi et de Minuit 62, Le Bistrot des Vignes 139 General Index 153 Grenelle 117 Abadie, Paul 23 boats 51, 164, 165 Agam Fountain 39 Autour du Monde 88 Le Bob Cool 124 LAgassin 117 LAvant-Goỷt 133 Boccador, 24 Rue du 106 airports 162 Aviatic Hụtel 174 Le Boeuf sur le Toit 109 Aladine 88 Avril, Jane 13, 142, 146 Bonger 65, 87 Alain Carion 72 Bois de Boulogne 38, 51, 152, 155 Album 122 B Bois de Vincennes 38, 151, 153 Alcazar 127 Le Bac Glaces 113 Bon 126 Alexander III, Pope 18 Baiser Salộ 62 Le Bon Marchộ 55 Alexander III, Czar 104 Baker, Josephine 58, 63 Bonnard, Pierre 14 Aligre Market 55 Balzac, Honorộ de 153 Les Bookinistes 127 Alphand, Adolphe 39 Maison de Balzac 137 LAlsaco 147 Le Pốre Goriot 46 books booksellers 122 LAmbassade dAuvergne 81 Balzac (hotel) 177 Les Ambassadeurs 109 banking 170 LAmbroisie 93 Bamyan 72 ambulances 171 Bar des Thộõtres 105 Bouchard, Henri 135 LAmi Jean 117 Barnes, Djuna 52 Bouchardon, Edme 11, 39 Andrộ, Edouard 105 Le Baron Rouge 87, 93 Boucher, Franỗois 11, 105 Andy Wahloo 92 Barrio Latino 92 Boulangerie des Deux Ponts 72 Anne of Austria 11 bars 523, 161 Boulevard St-Germain 51, 120, Antin, Duke of 107 beer bars 79 Antoine et Lili 88 St-Germain, Latin and Apollinaire, Guillaume 140, 142 Luxembourg Quarters 124 disabled visitors 167 Botanical Gardens see Jardin des Plantes 121 Boulevard St-Michel 12022 Bouquinistes 122 Aquarium de Paris Cinộaqua 135 La Bastide Odộon 127 Les Bouquinistes 127 Aquinas, Thomas 119 Bastien-Lepage, Jules 14 Bourdelle, Antoine 17 Arc de Triomphe 7, 245, 105 Bastille 856 Bourse du Commerce 75 Arốnes de Lutốce 130, 131 see also Marais and the Bastille Boutique Maille 98 Argonaute 60 Bataclan 92 Braille, Louis 29 Army Museum see Musộe de Baudelaire, Charles 53, 152, 156, Brancusi, Constantin 27 lArmộe 177 Braque, Georges 136, 144 LArpốge 117 Beaubourg and Les Halles 7481 arrondissements (districts) 164 Beauvais Tillộ Airport 162 Brasserie des Deux Palais 30 art galleries 367 Beauvoir, Simone de 47, 52, 125, Brasserie de lIle St-Louis 73 Marais and the Bastille 91 see also museums 152, 156 Man with a Guitar 27 Brasserie Lipp 125 Bechet, Sidney 63 breakfast 166 LArt du Bureau 89 Beckett, Samuel 47, 152, 156 Brel, Jacques 63 Art Nouveau 14 bed-and-breakfast 166 Breton, Andrộ 52 artists 144 beer bars, Beaubourg and Les Breuer, Marcel 113 Artus Hụtel 178 180 146 Halles 79 bridges LAssaggio 99, 173 Belgrand 111 Pont Alexandre III 489, 104, 115 Assemblộe Nationale 113 Belmondo, Jean-Paul 59 Pont de la Concorde 115 LAssignat 124 Benoit 77, 81 Pont dIộna 115 LAstrance 64, 139 Berlioz, Hector 33, 141 LAtelier des Chefs109 Bernhardt, Sarah 59 Brighton Hotel 173 LAtelier de Jửel Robuchon 65 Berri, Rue de 106 Bristol Hotel 173 LAtelier Maợtre Albert 127 Berthillon 71, 73 Brosse, Salomon de 43 Au Duc des Lombards 62 Betjemen and Barton 98 budget travel 166 Au Lapin Agile 58, 142, 146 BHV 88 Au Moulin Vent 127 Le Bilboquet 62 Buffon, Comte de 129 Au Nộgociant 147 bird markets 54 buildings, historic 423 Au Petit Marguery 133 Biron, Duc de 116 Le Buisson Ardent 131, 133 Pont Neuf 70 hotels 175 Buisson, Suzanne 145 Champ-de-Mars 17 bureaux de change 160, 170 Champs-Elysộes, Avenue des Buren, Daniel 96 buses 162, 164 103, 106 Citộ des Sciences et de lIndustrie 60, 152 Clair de Rờve 72 Clairon des Chasseurs 143 Chanel 108 Cler, Rue 112 guided tours 165 Charlemagne, Emperor 44 La Cloche des Halles 78, 81 Charles I, King of England 20 La Closerie des Lilas 523, 157 Charles V, King 8, 11, 42, 86 clothing Buzz 88 C Charles VIII, King 30 cabaret 146 La Charlotte de IIsle 73 Cabaret Michou 146 Chartier 99 Le Clown Bar 92 Cafộ Beaubourg 81 Chõteau de Longchamp 155 clubs 168 Le Cafộ Bleu 105 Chõtelet Fountain 39 Le Cochon lOreille 78 Cafộ Burq 147 Chevalier, Maurice 58, 63 Colbert, Jean-Baptiste 75, 131 Cafộ de Flore 52, 121, 125 Chez les Anges 117 Colette 153 Cafộ de lHomme 139 Chez Denise 77 Comộdie Franỗaise 59 Cafộ de lIndustrie 53, 92 Chez Gladine 133 communications 170 Cafộ Klộber 137 Chez Jean 147 concerts 166 Cafộ Mabillon 124 Chez Jeanette 53 concessions 166 Cafộ Marly 52 Chez Madame Arthur 146 Conciergerie 42, 49, 69 Cafộ de la Mosquộe 131 Chez Paul 93, 133 Constant, Christian 121 Cafộ des Musộes 32 Chicago Meatpackers 79 Le Convivial 147 Cafộ Oz 79 children 6061, 160 Coolin 124 Cafộ de la Paix 52 Chloộ 108 cosmetics shops 169 Cafộ du Trocadộro 137 Chopin, Frộdộric 153, 156 La Coupole 125, 153, 157 cafộs 523, 161 Le Chti Catalan 147 Coustou, Guillaume 8, 11 Calder, Alexander 113 Christophe-Colomb, 16 Rue 106 Coustou, Nicolas 19 Calixte 72 churches 4041 Coysevox, Antoine 19 shops 169 what to pack 160 Calvin, John 119 budget travel 166 Le Crazy Horse Paris 58 Cameron, Julia Margaret 14 Chapelle des Martyrs 145 credit cards 160, 170 camping 166 Dụme Church 32, 33, 40, 49 crime 161, 171 Camus, Albert 52 Eglise St-Merry 76, 77 Le Crocodile 124 canals, guided tours 165 La Madeleine 40 Crypte Archộologique 69, 71 Capet, Hugues 44 Notre-Dame 6, 1821, 49, 71 Crypte du Martyrium 145 Le Carrộ des Feuillants 99 Panthộon 7, 289, 40 currency 170 Cartaud, Jean Sylvain 116 Sacrộ-Coeur 7, 223, 143 customs limits 160 cash dispensers (ATMs) 160, 170 Sainte-Chapelle 7, 3031, 40, cycling 51, 56, 164 Cassatt, Mary 15 Catherine de Medici 11, 95 71 guided tours 165 St-Eustache 40, 75, 77, 78 Le Caulaincourt Square Hụtel 175 St-Germain lAuxerrois 767 D Le Cave Drouot 147 St-Jean lEvangộliste de Dalớ, Salvador 52, 144 Caveau de la Huchette 63 Montmartre 145 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalớ 37, 141, 143 Caviar Kaspia 98 St-Louis-en-lIle 71 cemeteries 156 St-Mộdard 13031 Dans Le Noir 81 St-Sulpice 41, 119 Danton, Georges Jacques 45 Cimetiốre de Montmartre 141, 145 Cimetiốre du Montparnasse 152, 153, 156 Cimetiốre de Passy 136, 137, 138 Cimetiốre du Pốre Lachaise 153, 156 Cimetiốre St-Vincent 143 Centre Georges Pompidou 7, 267, 77 Cierplikowski, Antoine 138 Daumier, Honorộ 14 Cimetiốre de Montmartre 141 Davis, Miles 62, 63 Cimetiốre du Montparnasse 152, de Gaulle, Charles 21, 33, 76, 107 153, 156 Debauve & Gallais 123 Cimetiốre de Passy 136, 137, 138 Debray, Pierre-Charles 143 Cimetiốre du Pốre Lachaise 153, Debussy, Claude 138 156 La Dộfense 151 Cimetiốre St-Vincent 143 Le Dộfenseur du Temps 76, 77 Le Cinq 109 Degas, Edgar 14, 15, 144 Chagall, Marc 97, 136 Le Cirque dHiver 58 Chaillot Quarter 1349 Citộ de lArchitecture et du La Chaiserie du Faubourg 89 General Index Champs-Elysộes Quarter 1029 disabled visitors 167 Patrimoine 35, 1356 Chalfrin, Jean-Franỗois 41 Citộ des Enfants 60 Champaigne, Philippe de 75 Citộ de la Musique 60 Young Dancer of Fourteen 13 Dehillerin 78 Delacroix, Eugốne 14, 41, 119, 153 Denis, St 140, 145 181 General Index dentists 171 Festival dAutomne Paris 56 Galerie Lavignes-Bastille 91 department stores 169 festivals and events 567 Galerie Liliane et Michel Durand- La Derniộr Goutte 123 Fờte du Cinộma designer shops 108 Fờte de la Musique 57 Galerie Marian Goodman 91 Les Deux Magots 52, 121, 125 Fờtes des Vendanges 57 Galerie Nikki Diana Marquardt 91 Les Deux Palais 73 lms 56, 59, 168 Galerie Patrick Seguin 91 Diana, Princess of Wales 48, 106 The Filofax Centre 89 Galerie Yvon Lambert 91 Dickens, Charles 46, 106 Le Fin Gourmet 73 Galeries Lafayette 54 Diderot, Denis 29 Finkelsztajn, Sacha 88 gardens see parks and gardens Dietrich, Marlene 106 Five Hotel 174 La Gare 157 Le Dieu Gambrinus 79 Fitzgerald, F Scott 47, 52, 125 Gare du Nord 162 Dior, Christian 108 Flaubert, Gustave 46 Garnier, Charles 52, 97, 172 disabled visitors 167 Fleurie 179 Le Gastelier 22 Disneyland Resort Paris 60, 151, Le Flore en lIle 71, 73 Gauguin, Paul 14, 153 153 ower markets 54 La Belle Angốle 13 Le Divan du Monde 146 Flowers Cafộ 28 Gaulupeau 123 Le Divellec 113, 117 Foch, Marshal Ferdinand 33, 111, La Gazzetta 93 116, 134, 136 Le Dụme 157 Geneviốve, Ste 28, 29, 44, 119 Dụme Church 32, 33, 40, 49 Folies-Bergốre 58 Gộode 60 Ducasse, Alain 64, 109, 139, Folies Pigalle 146 Le George 81 Fontaine des Innocents 39, 76, 77 George-V, Avenue 106 Duchamp, Marcel 121 Fontaine de Stravinsky 39 Gộricault, Thộodore, The Raft of Dufy, Raoul 35, 121, 136, 144 Fontenay, Aubert de 90 Dumas, Alexandre 141 food, gourmet tours 165 Gershwin, George 52 Duthilleul and Minart 78 food shops 169 Gilbert Jeune 122 172 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 123, 126 E LEchappộe 157 Tuileries and Opộra Quarters 98 the Medusa Gill, Andrộ 142 Gli Angeli 93 Le Gobelet dArgent 79 Ecole Militaire 11213 football 51, 57 Gobelin brothers 131 Eglise de Dụme see Forum des Halles 75 Godard, Jean-Luc 59 Foucault, Jean 29 Gordon Ramsay au Trianon 157 Eglise St-Merry 76, 77 fountains 39 Goujon, Jean 39, 76 Les Egouts 111 Le Fouquet 24 gourmet tours 165 Eiffel, Gustave 16, 17, 55 Four Seasons Fountain 39 Grand Hụtel Jeanne dArc 177 Eiffel Tower 6, 1617, 48, 60, 113, Four Seasons George V 106, 172 Grand Hụtel Lộvốque 175 La Fourmi 143 Grand Palais 48, 103 emergencies 171 Fragonard, Jean-Honorộ 10, 105 Le Grand Vộfour 99 Emery & Cie 88 Franco-Prussian War 22, 23, 45 Grande Arche 151 entertainment 589 Franỗois I, King 8, 11, 119 Le Grande Epicerie de Paris 126 Franỗois I, Rue 106 Grande Galerie de lEvolution 60 LEntreacte 147 Franỗois II, King 20 Grande Synagogue de la Victoire LEpi Dupin 127 Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, 25 Avenue 106 LEpicerie du Terroir 72 French Revolution 42, 445, 70, 86 Grandes Eaux Nocturnes 56 Epstein, Jacob 156 French Tennis Open 57 Granterroirs 109 Ermitage Hotel 175 French Tourist Ofce 163, 167 Grappelli, Stephane 63 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalớ La Fresque 78 graves 138, 156 The Frog and Rosbif 79 Greater Paris 15057 Fromagerie Quatrehomme 126 Grộvin 61 Le Fumoir 53 Gris, Juan 144 Dụme Church 115, 137 budget travel 166 37, 141, 143 Espace du Tourisme dIle de France 163 LEspadon 99 Eurostar 162 182 Dessert 91 41 Le Grizzli 81 G Gros, Antoine 25 Gabriel, Jacques-Ange 95,11213 guided tours 165 F Gagnaire 109 Farman, Henri 138 Gainsborough, Thomas 35 guillotine 70 Faubourg-St-Honorộ, Rue du 104 Galerie Akiộ Arichi 91 Guillotine, Dr Joseph 70 Fauchon 98 Galerie Alain Gutharc 91 Guimard, Hector 41, 143 Faurộ, Gabriel 138 Galerie Bamyan 72 Guimet, Emile 137 La Ferme Saint Aubin 72 Galerie Daniel Templon 91 Guinness Tavern 79 Fernandel 138 Galerie Karston Greve 91 La Guirlande de Julie 93 disabled visitors 167 H Hụtel de Brienne 116 Hụtel de Ville 423 Halle Saint Pierre 145 Hụtel Caron de Beaumarchais Hụtel de Villeroy 116 Les Halles 78, 80 see also Beaubourg and Les 174 hotels 160, 1729 best locations 173 Hụtel Chopin 177 breakfast 166 Halls Beer Tavern 79 Hụtel Le Clos Mộdicis 176 budget travel 166, 175 Hals, Frans 10 Hụtel du Commerce 175 disabled visitors 167 Hameau des Artistes 145 Hụtel Costes 174 family-friendly hotels 179 Hammam Club 146 Hụtel de Coulanges 90 famous-name hotels 177 Hampton, Lionel 63 Hụtel de Crillon 172 luxury hotels 172 Le Hanger 81 Hụtel Daguerre 177 medium-priced hotels 176 Hardouin-Mansart, Jules 96 Hụtel des Deux-Iles 173 romantic hotels 174 Hari, Mata 106 Hụtel Dieu 42 Haussmann, Baron 39, 45, 111, Hụtel Edouard VII 173 Halles 120, 155 rooms with a view 178 Hugo, Victor 7, 41, 130 Hụtel Esmộralda 177 Maison de Victor Hugo 87 Haussmann, Blvd 106 Hụtel dEstrộes 116 Les Misộrables 46 Hawkins, Coleman 63 Hụtel Favart 174 tomb of 29 health 161, 171 Hụtel Flaubert 177 I Hộdiard 97, 98 Hụtel Galileo 177 Ignatius Loyola, St 119 Heine, Heinrich 141 Hụtel de Gallifet 116 Ile de la Citộ and Ile St-Louis Hemingway, Ernest 39, 47, 52, 176 Hụtel du Globe 175 6873 Hụtel des Grandes ẫcoles 175 Impressionists 14, 15 Henri II, King 11 Hụtel des Grands Hommes 178 Ingres, Jean 114 Henri III, King 44 Hụtel Guộnộgaud 90 Institut du Monde Arabe 129, 131 Henri IV (Henri of Navarre), King Hụtel des Invalides 7, 323, 113, insurance 171 Hemingway haunts 125 20, 44, 69, 77 115 Internet 163 Louvre 11, 49 Hụtel du Jeu de Paume 173 Internet cafộs 170 Place Dauphine 70 Hụtel de Lamoignon 90 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters Place des Vosges 84, 85 Hụtel Lancaster 174 Pont Neuf 70 Hụtel Lenox Montparnasse Square du Vert-Galant 71 11017 Izraởl 88 175 Hụtel de Lille 175 J Hụtel de Marle 90 Jacquemart, Nộlle 105 Henry VI, King of England 20 Hụtel Matignon 116 Le Jamin 139 Hộrouard, Jean 129 Hụtel de Monaco de Sagan 116 Jardin dAcclimatation 61, 155 Hộvin, Jean-Paul 123 Hụtel de Noirmoutiers 116 Jardin du Luxembourg 38, 50, Higuma 99 Hụtel Notre-Dame 176 historic buildings 423 Hụtel dOrsay 173 Jardin du Palais-Royal 39 history 445 Hụtel du Panthộon 173 Jardin des Plantes 38, 50, 129, Hitler, Adolf 17, 45 Hụtel de la Place du Louvre 173 horse-racing 57, 155 Hụtel Pont Royal 125 hospitals 171 Hụtel du Quai Voltaire 178 hostels 166 Hụtel Raphaởl 172 Jardin des Serres dAuteuil 155 LHụtel 174 Hụtel Rộgina 178 Jardin des Tuileries 38, 50, 95, 96, Hụtel de lAbbaye St-Germain 176 Hụtel Residence Romance Henrietta Maria, Queen of England 20 Hụtel Amour 176 Malesherbes 179 61, 119 131, 132 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 12833 97 Jardins du Trocadộro 136 jazz Hụtel dAngleterre 176 Hụtel de St-Aignan 90 Hụtel des Arts 179 Hụtel Saint-Andrộ-des-Arts 175 festivals 56 Hụtel dAubusson 174 Hụtel St-Jacques 179 jazz clubs 623 Hụtel dAvaray 116 Hụtel Saint-Merry 176 Hụtel Baltimore 179 Hụtel Saint-Paul 176 Jazz Club Etoile 623 Hụtel de Banville 176 Hụtel Salộ 90 Jeu de Paume 36 Hụtel Baudelaire Opộra 177 Hụtel de Seine 176 Jewish Quarter 86 Hụtel de Beauvais 90 Hụtel de Sens 90 Jo Goldenberg 93 Hụtel Bellechasse 174 Hụtel de Soubise 90 Joan of Arc 20, 21, 23 Hụtel Biron 116 Hụtel Square 178 Joseph 108 Hụtel de Boisgelin 116 Hụtel de Bộthune Sully 90 Josephine, Empress 20, 105 Hụtel Bourgogne et Montana Hụtel de lUniversitộ 179 Le Jules Verne 64, 117 Hụtel Victor Hugo 177 Joyce, James 47 178 General Index Hụtel Castille 173 Left Bank 120 183 Louis XIV, King (cont.) General Index K Louvre 9, 11 markets 545 Kahn, Florence 88 Notre-Dame 19 Marly Horses Kandinsky, Wassily 121 Palais Royal 43 Marmottan, Paul 153 Klimt, Gustav 14 Place Vendụme 96 Marquise de Sộvignộ 98 Kundera, Milan 47 Versailles 42, 151, 154 La Marseillaise 104 L Louis XV, King 28, 42, 95, 112 Mary Stuart 20 Louis XVI, King Mason, Raymond 78 La Brosse, Guy de 129 Champ-de-Mars 112 Ladurộe 98 execution 45, 95, 96 La Fosse, Charles de 33 Versailles 42 La Tour, Georges de 10 Louvre see Musộe du Louvre Lalique, Renộ-Jules 14 Luthier 89 Laloux, Victor 49 Luxembourg Quarter see St- Lapộrouse 127 Germain, Latin and Lappe, Rue de 87 Luxembourg Quarters late-night bars 124 Latin Quarter see St-Germain, Matisse, Henri 14, 121 Sorrow of the King 27 Maubert Market 126 Maupassant, Guy de 152, 156 Bel-Ami 46 MaxMara 108 McBrides 79 Mộdard, St 130 Mộdici family 176 M Medici Fountain 39 Ma Bourgogne 87 Mộnagerie 129 Le 10 Bar 124 Ma Pomme en Colimaỗon 157 Mộridien Montparnasse 179 Le Brun, Charles 19, 131 La Madeleine 40 Merson, Luc Olivier 22 Le Moiturier, Antoine 10 magazines 163, 170 Metro 161, 164 Le Nụtre, Andrộ 95, 103 Maillol, Aristide 38, 95 Latin and Luxembourg Quarters Le Vau, Louis 71 Musộe Maillol 37, 121 disabled visitors 167 tickets 168 Lefốbvre, H 23 Maison de Balzac 137 Meurice 172 Left Bank 160 Maison Europộenne de la Mezzanine 124 walks 50, 121 see also St-Germain, Latin and Photographie 37 Michel Chaudun 123 La Maison du Miel 98 Michelangelo, Slaves 9, 10 Maison Prunier 139 Miller, Henry 47 Legentil, Alexandre 22 La Maison Rose 143 Mirbeau, Octave 138 Lộger, Fernand 136 La Maison de la Truffe 98 Mirú, Joan 113 Lộna et Mimile 133 Maison de Victor Hugo 87 Leonardo da Vinci 10, 11 Manet, Edouard 14, 15, 144 Luxembourg Quarters Mona Lisa 8, 11 La Baigneuse 27 Modigliani, Amedeo 37, 136, 144 Le Dộjeuner sur lherbe 12 Mois de la Photo 57 Leroux, Paul 97 grave of 138 Moliốre 59, 85, 153 Lescot, Pierre 76 Olympia 13 Moliốre Fountain 39 Lescure 97 Mansart, Franỗois 90 Mon Vieil Ami 73 Liberty Flame 48, 106 mansions 90, 116 Mona Lisa 8, 11 Librairie lArbre Lettres 89 Manufacture des Gobelins 131 Monastier, Jacques 76 Librairie Maeght 122 Marais and the Bastille 8493, Le Mondrian 124 Librairie Prộsence Africaine 122 160 Monet, Claude 15, 111 Librairie Ulysse 72 Marat, Jean-Paul 45 Blue Waterlilies 13 libraries 163 Marathon 57 Cathedral at Rouen 15 The Lido 58 Marceau, General 25 Musộe Marmottan-Claude lingerie shops 169 Marchộ dAligre 86 literature 467 Marchộ aux Fleurs 54, 69, 71 La Loco 146 Marchộ aux Oiseaux 54 Lotti 172 Marchộ aux Puces de St-Ouen Louis IX, King (St Louis) 23, 71, 119 55 Monet 37, 153 Musộe dOrsay 14 LOrangerie 37 money 160, 170 Montaigne, Avenue 104, 106 Notre-Dame 21 Marchộ Raspail 126 Montmartre and Pigalle 14047 Palais de Justice 42 Marchộ Richard-Lenoir 54 Montmartre City Hall 145 Sainte-Chapelle 30, 31 Marộe de Versailles 157 Montorgueil, Rue 78 Louis XI, King 31 Marguerite de Valois 20, 77, 90 Montparnasse 152, 153 Louis XIII, King 20, 43, 44 Marie-Antoinette, Queen Moreau, Gustave 145 Jardin des Plantes 129 Conciergerie 69 Morisot, Berthe 15, 138 Louvre 11, 49 execution 45, 95 Morrison, Jim 153, 156 Notre-Dame 19 Versailles 42, 154 Mosquộe de Paris 41, 129, 131 Louis XIV, King Hụtel des Invalides 32, 33 184 Marigny, Marquis of 107 Kafka, Franz 59 Marie de Mộdicis 39, 43, 107 motorways 162 Marigny, Avenue de 106 Le Mouffetard 65, 131, 133 Mouffetard, Rue 55, 130, 131 museums and galleries (cont.) Ofce de Tourisme de Paris 163 Moulin de la Galette 143 Musộe de la Vie Romantique Ofciel des Spectacles 163 Le Moulin de Rosa 88 145 Les Ombres 117 Moulin Rouge 58, 142, 143, 146 Musộe du Vin 137 opening hours 169 Movieum 135 Musộum National dHistoire Opộra National de Paris Bastille 59 Naturelle 34, 129, 131 Mulot,Gộrard 123 LOrangerie 37 Munch, Edvard 14 Palais de la Dộcouverte 104 museums and galleries 345 Parc de la Villette 60 Arc de Triomphe 25 budget travel 166 Le Placard dErik Satie 145 music Opộra National de Paris Garnier 58, 97 Opộra Quarter see Tuileries and Opộra Quarters LOrangerie 37 Orlộans, dukes of 43, 96 artistes 63 Orly Airport 162 concerts 166 Orwell, George 47 disabled visitors 167 festivals 56 outdoor activities 51 Espace Montmartre Salvador jazz clubs 623 Centre Georges Pompidou 7, 267, 77 Dalớ 37, 141, 143 stores 169 P palaces Grand Palais 103 Grande Galerie de lEvolution 60 N Louvre Jeu de Paume 36 Nabis 14 Palais de lElysộe 42, 105 Maison de Balzac 137 Napoleon I, Emperor 45, 135, 138 Palais de Justice 42 Maison Europộenne de la Arc de Triomphe 7, 24, 25 Photographie 37 Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 95 Maison de Victor Hugo 87 Assemblộe Nationale 113 Palais du Luxembourg 43 Palais-Royal 43, 96 Tuileries Palace 45 Musộe de lArmộe 32, 35, 111, 114 Champs-Elysộes 102, 103 Palais de Chaillot 48, 135, 137 Musộe dArt Moderne de la Ville Chõteau de Vincennes 151 Palais de Justice 70 Chõtelet Fountain 39 Palais de la Dộcouverte 104 Musộe des Arts Dộcoratifs 35, 95 Ecole Militaire 112 La Palette 125 Musộe Carnavalet 34, 85 Eglise du Dụme 40 Le Panic Room 92 Musộe Cognacq-Jay 35, 85 Jardin du Luxembourg 50 Panthộon 7, 289, 40 Musộe de lErotisme 142, 143 Musộe de lArmộe 35, 114 Papeterie Saint Sabin 89 Musộe Gustave Moreau 145 Musộe du Louvre Les Papilles 64, 127 Musộe en Herbe 155 Musộe de la Marine 135 Parc Asterix 61 Musộe de lHomme 135 Notre-Dame 20, 21 Parc des Buttes Chaumont 61 Musộe Jacquemart-Andrộ 105 Palais de lElysộe 42 Parc de la Villette 60, 152 Musộe du Louvre 6, 811, 34, Panthộon 28 Paris Collections 56 Place Vendụme 97 Paris Commune 42, 45 Rue de Rivoli 95 Paris Free Voice 163 La Sorbonne 119 Paris Jazz Festival 56 tomb of 32, 115 Paris Marathon 57 de Paris 136 49, 97 Musộe de la Magie et des Automates 60 Musộe Maillol 37, 121 Musộe de la Marine 135, 137 Napoleon III, Emperor 45, 80, 155 Musộe Marmottan-Claude Monet 37, 153 Musộe de Montmartre 35, 141, Paris Plages 57 Franco-Prussian War 23 Parisii tribe 44 Opộra de Paris Garnier 97 parking 162 Palais de lElysộe 105 parks and gardens 389 Naturalia 126 Bois de Boulogne 38, 51, 152, 155 Musộe National dArt Moderne 36 Naturalism 14 Bois de Vincennes 38, 151, 153 Musộe National du Moyen Age New Morning 63 Champs-de-Mars 17 newspapers 163, 170 guided tours 165 143 34, 120 Musộe National des Arts Nicholas II, Czar 116 Jardin dAcclimatation 61, 155 Asiatiques-Guimet 137 Nijinsky, Vaslav 141 Jardin du Luxembourg 38, 50, Musộe de lOrdre de la Libộration 33 Musộe dOrsay 6, 1215, 49, 121, 122 Nin, Anaùs 47 119, 125 North Africa 130 Jardin du Palais-Royal 39 Notre-Dame 6, 1821, 49, 71 Jardin des Plantes 38, 50, 129, Notre-Dame St-Michel (hotel) 178 131, 132 Musộe Picasso 36, 85 La Nouvelle Eve 146 Jardin des Serres dAuteuil 155 Musộe des Plans-Reliefs 33 Nuit Blanches 56 Jardin des Tuileries 38, 50, 95, O Jardins du Trocadộro 136 Observatory Fountain 39 Musộe Rodin gardens 115 LOeillade 121 Parc de Bagatelle 155 96, 97 Musộe de la Poupộe 77 Musộe du Quai Branly 35, 112, 115 Musộe Rodin 36, 11112, 113, 115 General Index Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 90 185 General Index parks and gardens (cont.) Poliakoff 121 Restaurant des Chauffeurs 157 Parc des Buttes Chaumont 39 police 171 Restaurant Georges 81 Parc Monceau 38, 153 Pommier 135 Restaurant Marty 133 Parc Montsouris 39 Pompadour, Madame de 42, 112 Le Restaurant Opộra 99 Prộ Catelan 155 Pompidou, Georges 76 Le Restaurant du Palais Royal Shakespeare Garden 155 Pompidou Centre see Centre Square du Vert-Galant 71 Versailles 39, 154 Georges Pompidou Pont Alexandre III 489, 104, 115 Beaubourg and Les Halles 81 The Passages 5051, 867 Pont-Aven School 14 budget travel 166 passports 160 Pont de la Concorde 115 Chaillot Quarter 139 Pasta Linea 89 Pont dIộna 115 Champs-Elysộes Quarter 109 Põtisserie de la Tour Eiffel 113 Pont Neuf 70 Ile de la Citộ and Ile St-Louis 73 Patrick Roger 123 Pop In 92 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Pavillon de la Reine 173 Post-Impressionists 14 Pei, I.M post ofces 170 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 133 Pepin the Short 44 Prada 108 Marais and the Bastille 93 perfume shops 169 Le Prộ Catelan 157 Montmartre and Pigalle 147 Perrault, Claude Le Prộ Verre 127 St-Germain, Latin and pộtanque 51, 57 Prix de lArc de Triomphe 57 Le Petit Journal St-Michel 63 Le Procope 125 Le Petit Journal Montparnasse 63 Proust, Marcel 47, 106, 156 Petit Palais 48, 103 Puget, Pierre 10 Richelieu, Cardinal 43, 85 Puvis de Chavannes, Pierre 29 Ritz Hotel 172 Le Petit Pascal 133 Le Petit Rộtro 139 Quarters 117 Luxembourg Quarters 127 tipping 161 Tuileries and Opộra Quarters 99 riverfront views 489 Le Petit St-Benoit 125 Q Le Petit Vendụme 52 Quai Branly see Musộe du Les Rives de Notre-Dame 178 Quai Branly La Petite Scierie 72 Le Pộtrelle 147 Quai de la Tournelle 121 Pharamond 81 Quigleys Point 79 pharmacies 161, 171 Rivoli, Rue de 95, 97 Robespierre, Maximilien de 45 Rodin, Auguste 14, 37, 116 Musộe Rodin 36, 11112, 113 Rogers, Richard 26 Philip IV, King 20, 69 R Philippe-Auguste, King 8, 80 Rabelais, Franỗois 130 Piaf, Edith 63, 153, 156 radio 170 Romans 44, 80, 130 Piano, Renzo 26 Radisson Blu Le Metropolitan 178 Romanticism 14 Picasso, Pablo 136, 140, 144 Ravaillac, Franỗois 43, 69 Roosevelt, Franklin D 106 Au Lapin Agile 142, 146 Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore 89 Rose Bakery 147 Les Deux Magots 52, 125 Reinhardt, Django 63 La Rose de France 71, 73 Musộe Maillol 37, 121 Le Relais Christine 174 Rouget de Lisle, Claude Joseph 104 Musộe Picasso 36, 85, 87 Relais du Louvre 179 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques 85 LOrangerie 37 Le Relais du Parc 139 Rue de Buci Market 545, 126 Rue de Buci 545 Relais St-Germain 179 Rue du Poteau Market 145 UNESCO headquarters 113 Rembrandt 10, 35 Ryst Dupeyron 123 Pigalle see Montmartre and Pigalle Pigeon, Charles 156 Le Pirộe 126 Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle (RCD) Airport 162 Renaissance Le Parc Trocadero 172 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 15, 143, 144 S Sacrộ-Coeur 7, 223, 143 Pissarro, Camille 15, 178 Au Lapin Agile 142, 146 Sadaharu Aoki 123 Pitchi Poù 93 Dancing at the Moulin de la safety 171 Pius VII, Pope 20 Place des Abbesses 143 Place de la Bastille 856, 87 Place de la Concorde 95, 97 Place de la Contrescarpe 130, 131 Place Dauphine 70 Place de la Madeleine 54, 97 Place du Tertre 141 Place Vendụme 967 186 65, 99 restaurants 645, 160 Galette 13, 15 Musộe Marmottan-Claude Monet 153 Musộe de Montmartre 35 Musộe dOrsay 14 LOrangerie 37 RER trains 164 Sainte-Chapelle 7, 3031, 40, 71 St-Eustache 40, 75, 77, 78 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 11827 St-Germain lAuxerrois 767 St-Jean lEvangộliste de Montmartre 145 disabled visitors 167 St-Louis-en-lIle 71 tickets 168 St-Mộdard 13031 Place des Vosges 85, 87 Rộsidence Hụteliốre Trousseau 179 St-Sulpice 41, 119 Plaza Athộnộe 172 Rộsidence Lord Byron 177 Sand, George 145 Poilõne 123, 126 Rộsidence Trois Poussins 176 Sander, Jil 108 Thộõtre du Chõtelet 59 The Village Voice 122 SanZSanS 92 Thộõtre de la Ville 59 Vin Sur Vin 117 Sartre, Jean-Paul 47, 52, 125, 152, 156 theft 161, 171 vineyards, Montmartre 142 Satie, Erik 145 tickets 168 Le Violin dIngres 117 Savoy, Guy 64, 109, 127, 139 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 105 Le Violin Dingue 124 Sax, Adolphe 104 Tilsitt, 14 Rue de 106 Viollet-le-Duc, Eugốne 135 Saxe-Breteuil Market 115 tipping 161 security 171 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 14, 58, 142, 144 Le Sộlect 125 Jane Avril Dancing 13 Senderens 99 Notre-Dame 18, 19, 21 visas 160 Voltaire 7, 29, 85 Le Voltaire 65 sewers 111, 113 La Tour dArgent 127 Shakespeare and Co 122, 125 Tour de France 56, 57 W Shakespeare Garden 155 Tour de Montlhộry 77 walks 5051, 164 shopping 545, 169 Tour St-Jacques 77 Chaillot Quarter 137 Champs-Elysộes Quarter 105, 108 tourist ofces 163 Champs-Elysộes Quarter 105 guided tours 165 tourist traps 161 Greater Paris 153 Ile de la Citộ and Ile St-Louis 72 tours 165 guided tours 165 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 1223, 126 Ile de la Citộ 51, 71 Le Train Bleu 87 Invalides Quarter 113 trains 162, 164 Jardin des Plantes Quarter 50, tickets 168 Tuileries and Opộra Quarters 98 Sickert, Walter 15 Les Halles 77 disabled visitors 167 Marais and the Bastille 889 131 travel 162, 164 budget travel 166 Left Bank 50, 121 Six Nations Rugby 57 disabled visitors 167 Marais 50, 87 SNCF 168 tickets 168 Montmartre 50, 143 Sisley, Alfred 15 Tuileries Quarter 97 La Sorbonne 43, 119 Le Trianon 154 Soufot, Jacques-Germain 107 Trocadộro Fountain 39 weather 160 Le Sous-Bock Tavern 79 Truffaut, Franỗois 59, 141 websites 163 Spoon, Food and Wine 105, 109 La Trufốre 133 Welles, Orson 12, 59 sports 51, 57 Tuileries and Opộra Quarters 949 The Westin Paris 172 Spring 72 Tuileries Palace 45 Whistler, James 14, 15 Wilde, Oscar 52, 125, 153, 156 Square Suzanne-Buisson 145 Le Square Trousseau 92 U Willis Wine Bar 99 Square du Vert-Galant 71 Uccello, Paolo 105 Winged Victory of Samothrace Stade Roland Garros 155 UNESCO 113 women travellers 171 stationery shops 169 Unico 93 World War II 33, 45, 48, 86, 107, 114 Stein, Gertrude 125 Ungaro, Emanuel 108 Wren, Sir Christopher 28 Stravinsky, Igor 27 Utrillo, Maurice 35, 58, 143, 144 writers 47 Sully, Duc de 90 LUrgence Bar 124 Z Sully, Bishop Maurice de 18 Sunset-Sunside 62 V Zebra Square 137, 139 Symbolism 14 Valadon, Suzanne 144 Zộro Zộro 92 synagogues 41 Valentino 108 Le Zinc dHonorộ 99 Valois dynasty 767 Zola, Emile 74 Van Gogh, Vincent 15, 143, 144 T La Table Lauriston 139 Bedroom at Arles 12, 36 Taillevent 64, 109 Musộe dOrsay 12, 14 Taverne Henry IV 73 Musộe Rodin 111 La Taverne de Maợtre Kanter 79 Vanverberg, Franỗois 106 La Taverne de Rubens 79 Vauban, Marshal 33 taxes 169 Venus de Milo taxis 164 Verlaine, Paul 52, 142, 146 disabled visitors 167 Tea and Tattered Pages 122 General Index Santos-Dumont, Albert 106 LAssommoir 47 Nana 47 Thộrốse Raquin 47 tomb of 28 zoos Mộnagerie 129 Parc Zoologique de Paris 61 Zurbarỏn, Francisco de 131 Vermeer, Jan 10 The Lacemaker telephones 170 Versailles 39, 42, 45, 151, 153, 154 television 170 Versailles Treaty (1919) 152, 154 tennis 51, 57 Vierny, Dina 37, 121 Terrasse Hụtel 178 Au Vieux Chờne 93 Terroir, Alphonse 29 views 115 187 ... TOP 10 PARIS MIKE GERRARD & DONNA DAILEY EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Contents Left Glass Pyramid, Musée du Louvre Right Crypt vaults, Sacré-Coeur Contents Paris Top 10 Reproduced by Colourscan,... from the Library of Congress ISSN 147 9-3 44X ISBN: 97 8-0 -7 566 6-9 3 3-1 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of... lasting influence on 19th- and 20th-century art Paris Top 10 (1840–1926) Edouard Manet The Impressionist Movement Dancing at the Moulin de la Galette (1876), Renoir 15 Paris Top 10 Eiffel Tower The