history of fashion in france

:J**T i-HOl f M RARE BOOK COLLECTION THE LIBRARIES The University of Georgia ~i?tf - THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE - P „,-.[...]... THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE moral sign-post, and supplies the historian, the philosopher, and the novelist with a guide to the prevailing ideas of the time Fashion, in fact, acts as a sort of thermometer of the infinitely various tastes of the day, which are influenced by many external circumstances It is the continuous development of clothing in its thousand varying forms, in its most striking... place of meeting, where the news of the day might be ascertained, and business and pleasure discussed UQ CHAPTER IV THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD 987 TO I27O Earliest times of the Carlovingian period—Variety of costume in the provinces—Fashions in the Duchy of France French taste dating from the eleventh century—Luxury increases with each generation—The dominical—The " bliaud "— Canes of apple-wood—Women in. .. them The Duchy of France, which formed the kernel of our modern France, will suffice to afford us an exact idea of olden fashions; 32 THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE just as Paris is nowadays the great centre and starting-point of every innovation in the toilet of our fair contemporaries Dress, fashion, and luxury varied considerably from and after the eleventh century William, Archbishop of Rouen, caused... according to the latest fashion, and on suitable occasions There were numerous makers of felt hats, flower head-dress makers of both sexes, makers of cotton, and of peacock-feathers, without counting the women weavers of silken head-coverings (a sort of milliner), women who made hats of orfrey, and silkspinners The principal towns of the kingdom abounded in hosiers, manufacturers of cloth, linen, or... was indispensable, being regarded as the penalty of the sin of our Mother Eve, and the hair was concealed beneath it THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD Among the admirable miniatures in the Mazarin Library, there is one of a queen wearing a triangular diadem, and a veil falling on either side over the shoulders The under-tunic is black, the upper, in the style of a mantle, is violet... relating to the king's household in 1302, we learn that the complete costume of a lady of the palace cost eight livres, that of a woman of inferior rank one-third less, and that of a waiting-maid fifty-eight sous The price of a Parisian bourgeoise's cashmere shawl at the time of the Restoration would have renewed the whole wardrobe of a court lady 43 44 'II THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE According to another... exceptions no Merovingian or Carlovingian king has possessed baths of such size It is almost certain that the great lords and ladies built no large bathing establishments in 30 THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE connexion with their private dwellings; on the other hand, their toilet apparatus, plate, brushes, fine towels, and other articles were often of very great value The bath itself was of wood, marble,... Cour de France, depuis 1'an 1675 jusqu'a 1'annee 1689," two folio volumes of coloured fashionplates were published in Paris; but they principally related to special costumes for the courtiers of Louis XIV ; the " city " was treated with contempt, and admiration was reserved for fine " court- THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE INTRODUCTION dresses." There was no periodical paper in France, relating to... large collar D 2 36 THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE THE CARLOVINGIAN PERIOD that left the throat and neck uncovered, ending in two points The other figures wear gowns closed in front, and in some instances with double sleeves The upper sleeve is wide at the edge and reaches only to the elbow At the same period both men and women wrapped themselves during the severe cold of winter in a cape or cope, a... though simpler than that of peacock's feathers, consisted of wreaths of natural flowers, prin- THE INFLUENCE OF THE CRUSADES 41 cipally roses, and was prepared by the herbalists or floralists who abounded in several parts of the capital Epernon, the haberdasher of Rue Qui-qu'en-poist (Quincampoix), had certainly the largest choice of ornamental finery for feminine attire His fame was in every one's mouth, ... of the History of Fashion in France FASHION is the expositor, from the standpoint of costume, of our habits and our social relations; in a word, of everything appertaining to the charm of life... idea of olden fashions; 32 THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE just as Paris is nowadays the great centre and starting-point of every innovation in the toilet of our fair contemporaries Dress, fashion, ... for fine " court- THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE INTRODUCTION dresses." There was no periodical paper in France, relating to novelties in female dress, before the time of the Directory, in the