Garment Inspection and Quality Control SYED ASIM NAJAM BS-T VII SUBJECT: APPERAL MANUFACTURING NAME: CLASS: During production the following inspections are taken: Line inspection: • All seams for cracking, missed stitches, tension of machines right, needle damage • Placket for breaking out at bottom corner • Seams need to be stretched with force to control needle holes • Shoulder tape is not twisted and extra fabric stitched in the shoulder part • Twin needle hemming to ensure no raw edges are visible • Sew in labels are positioned at the centre of the shirt • Collars are market to the correct measurement Table Inspection: • Check if a collar is attached evenly • Turn the garment and remove the lot stickers • Check the seams at needle damage to stretch the seams Pressing: • Press garments flat, never folded with the sleeves under it as this leaves sleeve impression marks at the garment • Do not iron (press) a placket, only steam this ! • Do not place iron direct onto the collar, only use lightly steam • Garment must no be over-pressed and glazing-shining effects must not be evident Pressing equipments: Steam/spray iron Hand steamer Tailor’s ham Pressing mitt Press cloth Seam roll e.t.c Packing -final examination: • Packing instruction must be follow • Garment should be packed in a approval bags, with the front of the garment face up • All labels, barcode's, special stickers should be checked regarding this order, style color and size • Cartons must be cleared • Remarks at each carton must be numbered by the lot number and placed at the packing list of this order by article number, color, size and quantity Sewing Operation Standards: Seams: • All Seams must be neatly and securely fastened off, with no loose or long ends • The seams must not have any needle damage • The following requirements are general standards: Stitches per cm Standard knitted garments 10-12 stitches per 2.5 cm Standard woven garments 12-14 stitches per 2.5 cm Needles: • Machine needles are selected according to the weight and other garment characteristics, as well as the thread type being used • A sharp pointed needle is used for most sewing • A ball-pint is used for knits because its rounded point tends to slide down between the yarns rather than pierce them Threads: • As a general guideline, natural fiber threads must be used for natural fiber fabrics and synthetic fiber threads for synthetic fabrics • Thread should match the weight of the fabric and the size of the needle • For perfect tension, the thread must be of the same size and type in the bobbin and in the needle Button and button hole: • Buttons must be attached using lockstitch button sewing machines A minimum 14 stitches is required • Button attachment must be checked • Button hole size for woven fabrics mm larger than the diameter of the button Button hole's in knitted fabrics same size as button diameter • The hole's must be checked at clean cut and no loose ends, others knife blades must be sharp or replaced • New type or dyed buttons must be checked at colorfastness during washing Zippers: • All used zippers must be purchased from approved suppliers or require a official test report • Number, length, brand, type of zipper must be approved during sampling • Pullers of zippers must be approved by customer and in line with the product, pullers must be checked for color fastness and breaking during use • Zip slider must move without obstruction • Zipper may not have loose ends the slider must not be removed or move easily Labels: All labels and design must be checked at colors and drawing • Care instruction at labels must be checked according project and fabric • Stitched seam space must be enough to view complete logo or slogan after placement in the garment Tagging and labeling equipments Tagging Gun: Labeling Gun: Labeling Press: Tolerance of measuring inspection: Garment / Fabric defects: • Defects are categorized as major or minor depending on the severity • To determine whether a defect is major or minor, the following factors will be considered: • Whether the defect will render the item unsaleable • The location of the defect on the item DEFECT ZONES: The following diagrams showing major and minor apparel defect zones A,B and C • A defect in “A” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “B” zone • A defect in “B” zone is considered more serious than a defect in “C” zone and will be categorized accordingly Defect Definition and Classification: MAJOR FAULT: • This is a defect which is sufficient to cause the garment to be considered as second’s quality • A defect which is obvious • Affects the saleability or serviceability which worsens with wear and time • Varies significantly from the approval garment specification MINOR FAULT This is a defect which would not normally be identified by the customer, but is, however less than the agreed quality standard A defect which: • Does not affect the performance of the garments in normal conditions • Is not noticeable to the customer on purchasing Defect List Seams and Stitching • Open seam • Needle holes • Needle damage • Improper stitch tension that affects appearance Pressing: • Burned or scorched • Over pressed to leave seam impression • Excessive wrinkles that require pressing • Serious shine caused by improper pressing Pockets • Not in specified location • Shaped poorly • Not of specified size and shape • Edge stitching not uniform Major M M Minor m M M M M M M M Collars and Cuffs • Collar points not uniform and balanced M BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES • Buttons missing or damaged • Buttons not sewn securely • Buttons not in specified, type or color • Button holes uncut M M M M m m ... damage • The following requirements are general standards: Stitches per cm Standard knitted garments 10-12 stitches per 2.5 cm Standard woven garments 12-14 stitches per 2.5 cm Needles: • Machine... numbered by the lot number and placed at the packing list of this order by article number, color, size and quantity Sewing Operation Standards: Seams: • All Seams must be neatly and securely fastened... measurement Table Inspection: • Check if a collar is attached evenly • Turn the garment and remove the lot stickers • Check the seams at needle damage to stretch the seams Pressing: • Press garments flat,