Grey inspection and woven and knitted fabric defects

Grey Inspection & Fabric Defects Aravin Prince Periyasamy Assistant Professor Dept of Textiles, DKTE Textile Engineering Institute Ichalkaranji, Maharashtra, India aravinprince@gmail.com 0091-9790080302 Inspection 2 Definition: Activities such as Measuring, Examining, Testing, Gauging, one or more characteristics of a product or source comparing these with specific requirements to determine conformity.  Grey cloth from weaving have many faults ( Broken ends and picks, stains and etc)  Many of these faults can be corrected at grey stage before wet processing .  Also in grey inspection following points are checked,  EPI, PPI, Width and Length of fabric & GSM. Principles 3c’s Of Inspection Every Inspection Is Involving 3c’s . Check Compare Conclude Inspection Instruments / Tools 5 The assessment may be carried out usually or by  Pick glass  Measurement by tape  Visual  UV lamp  Streak analyzer  Spotting with Shirley stain or similar staining agents Types of Inspections Flow Based Point Based Flow Based Fabric Inspection  Minor Faults: 1 defects within 15 CM is considered as a minor faults.  Major Faults: Within 15 CM More than 1 defects is considered as a Major Defects  Selvedge Defects Incase of furnishing fabric minor selvedge defects like pulled in selvedge are considered as major defects  Small defects are nearer to the selvedge means, it will not considered to the serious problem. Point Based Fabric Inspection 8 Fabric Inspection: There are Three types…… • 4 Point system • 10 Point system • Mil- Standards Size of Defect Penalty Points Upto 3 inches 1 >3” to 6” inches 2 >6” to 9” inches 3 Above 9 inches 4 4 – Point System In ’4 Points’ system of grading, faults are scored with penalty of 1, 2, 3 and 4 according to the size and significance 10 Four Point System •Maximum of 4penalty points can be assigned for any single defect - No linear yard / meter can be assigned more than 4 points regardless of number of defects within the yard/meter. •Employing the following criteria: The defects in both wrap/weft, course/wale directions will be assigned points [...]... continuous inspection, from roll to roll  Accurate fabric length and optional weight measurements Fabric roll length and weight can be taken using industrial standard measuring systems with digital readouts to give consistent fabric roll assessments  Auto adjustable tension Automatic adjustable tension of fabric when rewinding  Data collection and analysis system - With fabric fault tagging 100% fabric inspection. .. roll length and weight measurement allowing for accurate fabric roll analysis and printout www.cihanmakina.com Knitted Fabric Inspection List of fabric defects in woven fabrics            Coloured flecks Knots Slub Broken ends woven in a bunch Broken pattern Double end Float Gout Hole, cut, or tear Lashing-In Local distortion • • • • • • • • • • • • Missing ends Missing Pick Oil and other... 100 sq yds is considered First Class • As per the standard more than 40 points / 100 sq yds is considered Second Class 18 Points Different Color Tags for Different Processes & Defects  In export two types of tag used  Red tag It represented the critical defects  White tag It represented minor defects (add 10 CM of fabric wherever defects is present) Knitted Barre Birdseye Broken pattern Run Skip Stitch... Yarn Needle Line Press off Woven Bar Broken ends Broken picks Burl marks Coarse End/Pick Crack Float Fly waste Jerk-in Knots Off Pattern Reed Mark Slack end Slough off Slub Smash Soiled / Oily Filling Some Common Fabric Defects Processing Defects : Bow/Skew, Color Out, Color Smear, Doctor Streak, Dye Stain, Out of register, Sanforize pucker, Seam impression, Scrimp Woven fabric inspection 16 Advantages... Non Mendable Broken Ends woven in a bunch Broken ends woven in a bunch : This defect is caused by a bunch of broken ends woven into the fabric CAUSE : Failure of the weaver in attending the warp breaks properly MENDING: The broken ends woven in a bunch can be removed by using a plucker and the resulting loose ends should be cut with clipper As a result, a bare patch occurs and combing in both directions... inspection Following defects and points can be found (4 –Point Method), Size of Defects Defects Total Points Upto 3 Inch 2 2X1= 2 3- 6 Inch 3 3X2= 6 6 – 9 Inch 2 2X3= 6 More than 9 Inch 1 1X4= 4 Total Points Earned Points per 100 Sq yards = Total linear points x 3600 Length in Yds x Fabric width in inches • Points / 100 Sq Yds = 18 X 3600 • 58 X 60 • Points / 100 Sq Yds = 18.63 • As per the standard less than... 3, 5 and 10 according to the size and significance Size of Defect 1 inches or less 1 Over 1” but not over 5” 3 Over 5” not over 10” 5 Over 10” / full width Application Penalty Points 10 Point count calculation For Individual Roll: Points per 100 Sq yards = Total linear points x 3600 Length in Yds x Fabric width in inches 12 Eg (Calculation)  Knitted fabric length is 58 yds, width 60 inch for inspection. .. accidently woven into the fabric CAUSES :  Improper loom cleaning  Unclean environment MENDING: The extra foreign matter can be pulled out with a plucker Combing in both direction rectifies the resultant patch Hole, Cut, Tear Hole, Cut or Tear : This is self explanatory CAUSES :  Sharp edges on cloth roll  Hard substance between layers of fabric in cloth roll  Course temples used for fine fabric. .. gets woven as one This defect is characterized by a thick bar running parallel to the warp CAUSES : Wrong drawing, taking more ends in heald eye MENDING: This fault can be corrected by pulling out the extra end with the help of needle A bare patch is formed and can be filled by combing in both directions with the help of metallic comb Float Float : Float is the improper interlacement of warp and weft... threads CAUSE : Tail ends not trimmed after piecing up MENDING: These defects can be easily rectified with the help of clipper Weft Bar Weft bar : An unwanted bar, running across the full width of a piece which differs in appearance from the adjacent normal fabric CAUSES :  Difference in count, twist, colour, lustre  Faulty let-off and take-up motion MENDING: Non mendable Shuttle Smash Shuttle smash . length and weight measurement allowing for accurate fabric roll analysis and printout. www.cihanmakina.com