QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY

Page QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS USED IN APPAREL INDUSTRY PROJECT SUPERVISOR: MR.BABIR RAMZAN PROJECT MEMBERS: Syed khuram Hassan bet-sp07-003 DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING THE UNIVERSITY OF FAISALABAD PAKISTAN Page We hereby declare that this project, neither as a whole nor as a part therefore has been copied out from any source It is further declared that we develop this project and this report entirely on the basis of our personal efforts made under the sincere guidance of our project supervisor Sir Babar Ramzan We further declare that this project and all associated documents and records and partial requirement for the degree of Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering (Garments technology) Page WITH THE DEEP SENSE OF HONOUR TO OUR BELOVED AND DEAREST PARENTS & BROTHERS RESPECTED TEACHERS AND ALL THOSE WHO DEVOTED THEIR YESTERDAY FOR OUR BRIGHT TODAY Page With the blessings of almighty ALLAH and prayers of our parents we made this humble attempt to achieve the goal that we set for us in the beginning of final year Although it was not an easy task but with the devotion of our project team and cooperation of our respected teachers we have at least succeeded in completion of our project The support and encouragement rendered by our CHENAB TEXTILE MILL staff was very vital in the completion of this project, their guidance and encouragement played a key role in the planning and completion of this project We are also very thankful to the Head of Department of Textile Engineering Mr.NAVEED AKHTAR for facilitating us We are very thankful to our project advisor MR.BABIR RAMZAN for his guidance and providing us the facilities which was the real source of inspiration for the completion of this project In the end we are thankful to all the lab attendants and staff members without the cooperation of whom the achievement of this goal would have been a dream only Page Page Contents Contents Chapter#1 .11 INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY AND COST OF QUALITY 11 1.0 INTRODUCTION 12 1.1.PRINCIPLES OF QUALITY CONTROL .14 1.2.THE ROLE OF QUALITY CONTROL 15 1.3 QUALITY TERMS 15 1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT 15 1.5.DIMENSIONS OF QUALITY 16 1.6.THE COST OF QUALITY 18 1.6.0.Introduction 18 1.6.1.Importance of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector 19 1.7.THE ATTACK ON COSTS .20 1.8.CONTROLLING COSTS 21 1.8.0.Classification of Cost of Quality in Apparel Sector .22 Chapter#2 .24 FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEMS 24 2.1 FABRIC QUALITY INSPECTION 25 2.2 Four- Point System .25 2.1.0Advantages 26 2.3.TEN POINT SYSTEM .28 2.3.0.Advantages 29 2.3.1.Disadvantage .29 2.4.GRANITEVILLE’78 SYSTEM 29 2.5 DALLAS SYSTEM 30 2.6 CONCLUSION .30 Chapter #3 31 SPREADING AND CUTTING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEM .31 31 3.1 QUALITY CONTROL BEFORE SPREADING 32 3.2 SPREADING QUALITY SPECIFICATIONS .32 Page 3.3 Fabric Spreading Objective 32 3.4 THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE SPREADING PROCESS 33 3.5 Type of Spreads 34 3.6 General Fabric Spreading System 34 3.7 Conclusion 36 3.8.1Cutting (Manual) 36 3.8.2 Cutting (Auto) .36 3.9 Cut components inspection 37 3.10 Cutting Room Functions .37 3.11 Requirements of Pattern Cutting 37 3.16 Safety Instructions in Handling Cutting 38 3.13.Numbering 39 3.14.Sorting, Bundling, Storage and transfer for Production 39 3.15 Panel Checking System 39 3.16 Conventional cut parts inspection System 39 3.17 Conclusion 40 Chapter #4 41 STITCHING QUALITY CONTROL SYSTEMS 41 4.1 STITCHING 42 4.2 7-0 system 42 4.2.1 Advantages 42 4.2.2.Disadvantages 42 4.3 TRAFFIC LIGHT SYSTEM 43 4.3.1 Advantages 45 4.3.2 Disadvatages .45 4.4 Conventional Quality Control System 46 4.5 Random Inspection System: 46 4.6 GUIDE LINES TO QUALITY CONTROL IN STITCHING DEPARTMENT 46 4.7 Conclusion 47 Chapter#5 .48 SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS 48 5.1 Cutting .48 Page 5.2.Sewing 49 5.2.1.Potential Major faults 49 5.2.2.Potential minor faults 50 5.3 Embroidery 51 5.4 Printing 52 5.5 Finishing and packaging .53 5.6 Final Audit 54 5.7 Clipping Inspection 54 5.8 Final inspection 54 5.9 Pressing Inspection 58 5.10 SPECS INSPECTION 58 5.11 Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack) .58 5.12 Packing inspection 59 5.13 Conclusion .59 References .60 From Websites: 60 From Persons: 61 Page Page 10 • If the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector identifies the same mistake for the second time (in same operator) the yellow flag is replaced by red flag and second part of the part ticket is issued The operator has to fallow the same procedure as before Now the rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector will a follow up of inspections of consecutive bundles of the same operator, by issuing the balance follow up tickets (one at a time).If the follow up inspection results passes, the green flag is re-installed If any of the follow up inspection results fails, the follow up re-starts from that point • The rowing Q/C or Q/C inspector should inspect critical operations every hour Other operations could be confined to an inspection of once, twice or thrice according to the criticality of occurrence of faults Inspection of every 5th piece of operation by the operator The operator should inspect his part of operation, on every 5th piece to determine any faulty stitching End –line Inspection (100% inside-out) All pieces that complete all operation should be checked inside out by end line inspectors 4.7 Conclusion Over all according to our observation 7-0 system is most suitable to our industry because it is easy to implement and results are better than other systems Traffic signal system is also a good system but it is costly and other system s have there own importance but regarding to quality 7-0 system is most effective as quick feedback is get by this system efficiency and quality is improved by this system Page 47 Chapter#5 SAMPLING & FINAL INSPECTION METHODS 5.1 Cutting The cut bundles received from cutting department are inspected 100% for visual defects such as the following: Knitting defects such as holes, barre, needle line, yarn shade variation, repeat difference etc Processing defects such as water marks component shading, compactor shoe marks, dead cotton slubs etc Mis-cuts, improper notching etc The front and back panel are matched as per the requirement of the buyer In case of design/repeats of parts same should match Sampling Quantity: Visual Inspection Measurement Check 100% out of 10 pieces Page 48 In case of any variation in the above parameters, the complete bundle is returned to the cutting department for correction/replacement Acceptance Standard: Bundle Size Defects allowed Up to Pieces to 10 pieces 11 to 15 pieces 16 to 20 pieces More than 20 pieces Where it is possible to change the defective part by replacement, the quality inspector checks the exchanged part for shade variation, and measurement and ensure to put the same number that of the damaged part Reporting defects Rate: Defects rate in cutting= The total defects found / No of bundle checked 5.2.Sewing The QA follows the parameters stated below Fabric pattern, design, weight etc Stitch details Placement accessories and trims Folding and packing details 5.2.1.Potential Major faults Any surface hole or weakening defects which could develop into a hole Visible flaws Shading within the garment Dye spots, misprints Cuts and tears Non matching checks and stripes Bowing of fabric, if it effects the appearance of the garment Spots or stains Deviation in measurement specs more than the given tolerance 10 Twisted or puckered seam 11 Broken stitches or open seam 12 Seams not bar tacked unless covered by another seam 13 Irregular or uneven top stitching and contrast stitching 14 Run-off in top stitching in visible areas 15 Incorrect stitch counts 16 Incorrect seam allowance Page 49 17 Twisted hems and uneven hems 18 Missing bar tack 19 Uneven fronts, sleeves and other symmetric components 20 Poorly done and objectionable mending 21 Broken/skip stitch 5.2.2.Potential minor faults Removable stains All other temporary defects other than listed above In-line quality audit The quality inspector conducts in-line quality audit as per the steps mentioned below: Pick up one bundle after any operation at random Check the quality level of that particular operation Repeat this procedure for minimum of times of the same operation within a day In case some type of rejection is encountered repeatedly, production is held temporarily until corrective action is ensured by line supervisor End of the line quality Quality inspector station at the end of all sewing operation and check the following: Stitch formation Component shade variation Sewing alterations and variations Damaged parts Size label jumping Missed sewing operation Broad measurement specification Pilot run Depending on the size of the order, pilot run is carried out All the pieces are visually inspected and measurement for any quality defects The sample sizes for pilots runs are as follows Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off Up to 3000pcs 25pcs 3001 to 6000pcs 40pcs 6001 to 9000pcs 60pcs 9001 to 15000pcs 75pcs Above 15,000pcs 100pcs Page 50 Any major deviation in measurement or style is incorporated in the pattern/sewing line before the bulk production start 5.3 Embroidery The QA ensure quality through sample embroidery sew-out Sample of a garment along with placement details is made before going in to mass production, parameters are strictly followed to ensure quality embroidery Parameters Right shade of threads Positioning of the embroidery Coverage, stitch density is as per the order Embroidery alignment Fraying of thread Clarity in the design as per original Right tension of the threads Holes due to needle Skip/missed threads 10 Shade variation within the box of thread The pilot quantity of strike off Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off Up to 2000pcs 15pcs 2001 to 5000pcs 25pcs 5001 to 8000pcs 35pcs 8001 to 15000pcs 50pcs Above 15000pcs 60pcs The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk production Page 51 5.4 Printing The QA ensures that an approved strike off of the print with the shade card giving the pantone references number Is available with the Department Sample of the garment along with the placement details must be available Before starting bulk production, pilot strike off of using the actual garment /panel is taken and inspected for the following quality Parameters Right shade of colors Positioning of the print Proper registration Print alignment Clarity in the design as per original Properly cured surface Stains Skew ness of print The pilot quantity of strike off Order Quantity Pilot Strike Off Up to 2000pcs 15pcs 2001 to 5000pcs 25pcs 5001 to 8000pcs 35pcs 8001 to 15000pcs 50pcs Above 15000pcs 60pcs The pilot strike off panels/garments are 100% visually inspected and changes are incorporated in the bulk production Page 52 5.5 Finishing and packaging The purpose of pressing a knit/woven fabric product is to eliminate the wrinkle and yield original feeling The following points are ensure by the QA inspector while ironing is in process: Knit product must be iron finished at proper temp The system press must have Teflon shoe and must be cleaned periodically Areas such as collar, embroidery, printing, etc should not be hard ironed No small wrinkles, defective luster and iron-pressed marks should be observed on the surface The size of the iron finished product must conform to order specification The garment must be allowed to be cooled for at least hour before putting in poly bag The ironing table top cloth must have marking for horizontal and vertical markings matching the outline size of the garment Packing is an important aspect of a given garment The following aspects are checked by the inspector: The price ticket, hangtag, bar code stickers The right size of the poly bag should be used for the garment After the garment is inserted in the poly bag, it should not be sloppy or too tight The ratio of pre-packs and qualities per carton must be checked randomly Page 53 The garment through the poly bag must be visually symmetric All carton markings must conform to the order requirement 5.6 Final Audit The purpose of the final, audit is to establish the quality level of the final pieces goods before it leaves the factory The QA manager has to conduct a final quality audit of the packed goods and this has to done at two stages: Once 50% of the shipment is packed Other when 100% of the shipment is packed In case there is any quality problem at the above stages, the packed goods have to be screened for the specific quality aspects Once corrected the above procedure has to be repeated again 5.7 Clipping Inspection Clipping (Trimming of Thread) should be inspected for cut stitches and cut holes This is a 100% inspection 5.8 Final inspection Garment inspection is a vital process of quality control for measuring the quality of the product, comparing with requirements and acting on the variations There are three types of final inspection • Step wise inspection • Batch inspection • 100% inspection Stepwise inspection Page 54 Stepwise inspection has two types one is final inspection and other is super final inspection In final inspection we sort out sewing faults and in super final inspection we check specs, shade and shape of the garment Disadvantage • It is time consuming • Man power increased Batch inspection In it a team of final inspectors check the pieces and make batch for example a batch is consist of 100 garments from those batches randomly some batches are inspect by auditor and pass, fail report is made on type of fault and occurrence of faults 100% Inspection Once the garment has been fully assembled, then it must pass though a final inspection In the final inspection, 100% of the garments manufactured are checked for defects Any defects found will be returned to the original operator for repair Inspectors are expected to not only check for defects, but are also required to cut threads as they see necessary • Each inspector should have his/her own pair of scissors These should always be used to cut long threads There is no tolerance for repairs caused by pulling threads instead of cutting them • Each inspector should be given a bag of her own number The numbers are to be inserted into one of the front pockets This way they are easy to locate incase the identity of the inspector in needed There is no tolerance for an inspector who refuses to put numbers into the pockets • Inspectors are expected to follow inspection procedures to ensure that the entire garment has been inspected Inspection Procedures: • Garments should enter the End of Line inspection process inside out • Begin with the front of the garment and work down and to the back Establishing a routine is the most effective way to ensure that no operations are missed • All long threads should be cut as seams are being checked for defects • The garment should then be turned outside in • All exterior threads should be clipped Page 55 • Pockets, tacks, and any fabric defects should be checked Any defects found should be marked with red tape and set aside for repairs • Check the zipper to ensure that it zips and unzips freely • Check the buttons and button holes Make sure they line up and are functional • Inseam and waist should be measured Check measurement results against the label to be sure that the garment is the same size as stated on the label • After inspection and thread trimming, the inspector’s number should be placed in the pocket and the garment should be neatly stacked • The stacks should be picked up by the End of Line auditor He will then check the garments once more (This is a more general check to ensure that inspectors are effectively inspecting their garments.) • Once this last audit is done, the garments can be stacked and taken to pressing Inspection is Conducted to evaluate the First passed yield (FPY).That is the first time past percentage, on an hourly basis End Line Audit Report 2.5 AQL Inspect Reject on Defect Line Hour Accept Reject Reason Minor Defects Improvements Auditor Name: Date: The defects identified are segregated into main categories Page 56 • Rafu • Stain • Alteration A) Rafu Rafu is minor fabric faults which are mend-able Very Important Factors • Darning is not accepted on body • Operational darning could be accepted If it is not conspicuous • Any fabric fault mended by Knitting needle (Knitted) and not prominent to the naked eye could be accepted • Any defect that is not according to the above factors should be discarded as totally rejected items B) Stain • If any dust spot, oil spot or any other stain spot could be removed by either stain removers or light washing, without, effecting the color, appearance, hand feel, and specs could be accepted • Any slight patch dispersed as a result of the above process, should be discarded as a reject C) Alteration • If any sewing defect could be recovered by re-work, without effecting seams or body quality standards, it is acceptable • If the reworking results are miss-shape, specs variation, miss alignment, or any other defect the product should be discarded as a reject • Any uncut thread or loose thread should be taken care of before OK garments passed to the folding stage Page 57 5.9 Pressing Inspection Pressing tables should be marked with length and breadth of all sizes of garments according to Buyers specifications Pressing Inspection is done to evaluate • Correctness of shape of Neck/Shoulder/Sleeve/ Side Seam/ bottom hem in uppers; and shape ofwaist/ Hip/ Side Seam/ inseam/ leg opening in bottoms • No shiny marks /crease marks on seams • No Excessive moisture by steam • No Color fading • No Dust marks/Stain marks/oil marks • Pressing as required 5.10 SPECS INSPECTION 100% of garments should undergo critical specs inspection (For Tops-Body length, Chest, Sleeve length, neck, arm hole and, shoulder) (For Bottoms-Side seam, inseam, hip,waist and leg opening) All other measurements as defined by the particular buyer should undergo random specs inspection at least 10% of the total quantity Any garment that is not within the specified tolerance limit should be discarded as a rejected item Please note this does not mean that all garments should be within tolerance This tolerance limit is allowed to accommodate any human error which rearly occurs 5.11 Folding and Presentation (or Hanger Pack) The inspector should ensure that there is no dust, fluff or loose thread in the presentation of the garments Appearance should be attractive and eye catching The folding should be even and balanced, and according to the specifications of folding The correctness in the position of label, accurate shape after folding, not looking miss-aligned after folding and all other factors pertaining to folding should be given more emphasis Correctness of labels, stickers, Tags or any other attachments and aids of attachments should be ensured Correctness of poly bags, measurements of poly bags, marks and numbers an poly bags, sealing of poly bags, poly bag mouth, should be ensured Correctness of size and Page 58 sticker or any other accessories on poly bag should be ensured Correctness of Hangers and sizes, size of hanger quality of hangers, printing, emboss, carvings, alignment, packing performance should be ensured 5.12 Packing inspection After final inspection, the garments are poly-packed, dozen-wise, color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the cartoon The cartoon is marked with important information in printed form which is seen from outside the cartoon easily The cartoons of the manufactured garments are delivered or placed in the dispatch department or finished product godown, from where the garments lot is delivered for shipment There is no margin for any packing error Packing should be 100% correct Correctness of Quantity in CTNS should be ensured Correctness of sizes in CTNS should be ensured Correctness of pre-packs, ratio packs, catalogue packs, mix packs (if allowed) should be ensured Correctness of style and P.O should be ensured Correctness of color and size assortments should be ensured.CTNS size, CTN marks and numbers, CTN quality, packing capability, No of plies, shade, sealing ability, hanger pack capability etc should be ensured Ensure that security slip (white) is fixed while sealing CTNS with inspector signature, Id number, unit number, and P.O code Ensure that CTN tape/adhesive tape/Gum tape sealing tape adheres properly to CTN without bubbling or detaching Ensure that CTNS look attractive, clean, without bulking, un-smashed, without damage, without excessive CTN tape protruding at the corners and stackable without disturbance Ensure the correction of CTN stickers (ASN, DTS, OCR, ETC) and undamaged stickers are fixed 5.13 Conclusion By final inspection of garments at all stages like clipping, final inspection, pressing and packing we have full confidence on our shipment Page 59 References From Websites: http://www.textileguides.com/garments-pattern http://www.cutplan.com/nestplan-nesting-parts-material.htm http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com/2007_12_01_archive.html http://articles.textileclass.com/methods-of-cutting-fabric-uses-of-scissor/ http://www.wmolaw.com/files/The_8_Dimensions_of_Quality.pdf http://lssacademy.com/2008/05/28/8-dimensions-of-quality/ http://www.apparelkey.com/ApparelKey/Document/Cate2/2.3.6.4/casestudy3prabirjana.pdf?TABLENAME=Cate2&PARENTNODE=2.3.6.4 http://www.accordiausa.com/cat-24-1- 17/Product_Quality_Inspection.htm Page 60 http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article http://articles.textileclass.com/garments-manufacturing-sequence/ http://www.tpingzhi.asp.htm From Persons:  Mr.Sohail from fabric dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad  Mr.Subasinghe from cutting dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad  Mr.Awais from PPC dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad  Mr.Ali from Stitching dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad  Mr.Rasika from quality control dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad  Mr.Sajid/Mr.Qammer from pressing & folding dept Chenab Textile Mill Faisalabad From Books Page 61 [...]... production, in a balanced way, since both are commercially important 1.3 QUALITY TERMS Quality “ It is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold” Quality Control "The systems required for programming and co-coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the... understood that, in spite of excellent quality of raw materials and good inspection coverage, the quality of a garment also depends on workmanship, which may be a prime factor of hindrance in the attainment of quality owing to poor training, poor maintenance of machines, and lack of requisite skill 1.8.1.Prevention Costs The costs of all activities specifically designed to prevent poor quality in an apparel. .. widely used system in apparel industry. 4 point system is best as compared to other systems since it is easy to teach and learn.4 point system usually used for knitted fabric and 10 point system is used for woven fabric.Other systems are like Graniteville’78 and Dallas system has some problems such as viewing distance and they affect the cost of production as defects are located after cutting and on finish... Page 19 In general, the cost of quality has two main components: the cost of good quality (or the cost of conformance) and the cost of poor quality (or the cost of non-conformance) according to Philip B Crosby in his book Quality Is Free The cost of poor quality affects internal and external costs resulting from failing to meet the requirements specified for an apparel product by the garment industry. .. maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control Quality Assurance "The establishment and maintenance of all activities and functions concerned with the attainment of requisite quality" 1.4.RESPONSIBILITIES OF QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPATMENT INDULGE AND MONITOR QUALITY SYSTEMS Page 15 The Q/A dept is required to induce the Q/C dept... • Quality planning • Supplier capability surveys • Process capability evaluations • Quality improvement team meetings • Quality improvement projects • Quality education and training Minimum neck stretch must meet the required measurements specified Sample complies measures 22".Monofilament thread is not permitted for use in children's clothing For all the paints and other coatings used on hardware including... Classification (Four- Point System) Size Defect Penalty 3 inches or less 1 Point Over 3 inches, but less than 6 2 Points Over 6 inches, but less than 9 3 Points Over 9 inches 4 Points The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point Only major defects are considered No penalty points are assigned to minor defects (A major defect is any defect that would cause a final garment to be considered... the inline and final quality control inspectors on their performance.The evaluation will be based on the over all quality level less than 4 % for any merit or reward systems ASSURE THE QUALITY OF PRODUCTS Q/A will performance audits at cutting stage to assure the cut products to confirm required quality standard at OQL 1.5 %.The inline Q/A Auditor will perform random audits to assure stitching quality. .. in meters and roll number and stack separately at the given place 3.7 Conclusion Spreading is the main operation where quality can be control before cutting.Spreading effects the shape of cut parts so lay must be in standard form before cutting 3.8 CUTTING Cutting is irreversible process in garments cutting, so it must be done carefully There are two types of cutting • Manual • Automatic 3.8.1Cutting... sampling techniques may be used as a means of control, indicating trends in performance and assisting to maintain quality By improving the control of the process, 100 per cent inspection may no longer be necessary Total costs will be lowest when design staff are aware of the cost implications of their work Good design saves cost not only at the design stage itself but throughout production and testing: