FASHION DRAPING TECHNIQUES a STEP BY STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN

F ASHION D RAPING T ECHNIQUES A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN PRESENTED BY : KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL B. Sc. FT. 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA FASHION TECHNOLOGY SUBMITTED TO DEZYEN E’ COLE COLLEGE TOWARDS PRACTICAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE AWARDS OF ADVNCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY SUBMITTED BY KHUSHBOO KUHNTWAL ADVANCE DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECNOLOGY ADVISER MADHURI TANDON DEZYNE E’ COLE COLLEGE AJMER 2010-2011 BASIC BODICE BLOCK PREPARING THE FABRC-FRONT 1. Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5inches. Snip and tear the fabric this length. 2. Measure the width for the front bodice along the cross grain from the center front of the dress from to the side seam at the bust level and add 5 inches. Snip and tear the fabric this width block and press the fabric at this time. 3. Draw the center front grain line 1”inches from the edge. Press under. NOTE: - The selvage is to your left hand and the torn edge is to your right hand. 4. Using on l-square ruler, draw a perfect cross grain line in the center of the fabric panel. This cross grain line will be referred to as the bus level line. 1. Measure on the dress from the distance from the center front to the apex. Measure and cross mark the apex this distance the bust level of the fabric. 2. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on the dress form. Measure and cross mark this side seam distance on the bust level of the fabric. 3. Draw the center of the princess panel line. Divide in half the distance from the apex to the side seam at the bust level. Using an l-square ruler, draw a line parallel to the center front grain line at this divided position squaring down from the bust level. BASIC BODICE BLOCK DRAPING STEPS- FRONT 1. Pin the apex mark on the fabric to the apex position on the dress form. 2. Pin the center front grain line fold to the fabric to the center front position of the dress form .Anchor pins at center front and neck and center front waist. An additional pin may be needed at the bust level tape. 1. Pin the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly in the center of the princess panel of the dress form. Anchor pins at the waist line and the cross grain. Align a pin the from cross grain. NOTE:- The purpose for centering the princess panel line is to be sure the cross grain line is perfectly aligned check that the length wise grain is parallel to center front and perpendicular to the cross grain. 2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel. From the bottom edge up to the waist seam tape. 3. The excess fabric between the center front waist positions becomes the front waist dart. Drape and pin the excess fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist dart. Excess fabric is folded toward the center front. 4. Smooth and drape the reminder of the waist line fabric across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam pin the side seam waist corner. Also drape the reminder of the front side seam pass the side seam and flat arm plate. Pin in place. 5. Drape the neckline by trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at internals. Smooth the neckline in place. Drape and smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam of the dress form. Just pass the princess seam pin in place. 6. The excess fabric that falls between the neckline and the shoulder/ armhole area becomes the amount of the shoulder dart this amount various from one bust size to another. 1. Fold and pin this excess fabric on the shoulder princess seam of the dress from. The excess fabric is folded towards the center front neck. 2. Mark all key areas of the dress form to the fabric. 1. Neck line Cross mark at center front neck and at neckline corner lightly mark reminder of neck line. 2. Shoulder seam and shoulder dart. a.)Top at shoulder seam ridge. b.) Middle at screw level. c.) Cross mark bottom at side seam. 3. Waist line and waist dart. 4. Side seam lightly mark cross mark center front waist at Side Seam and both side of the dart. BASIC BODICE BLOCK PREPARING THE FABRIC- BACK 1. Measure length for the back bodice along the straight of grain from the neck band to the waist and add 5 inches. 2. Measure the width of for the back bodice along the cross grain from the center back seam at the under arm and add 5 inches. 3. Draw the center back grain line 1“from the torn edge and press under. 1. Cross mark the center back neck line position 3 inches below the top of the fabric on the center back grain line. 2. Measure down 41/4” from the back neck line mark. Using an l-square ruler draw a perfect cross grain line at this position (This is considered the shoulder blade level). NOTE:-This 41/4” measurement represents one fourth of the distance from center back neck to waist for a size 8 or 10 women’s figure. Also, measure the distance from center back to the arm plate at the shoulder level of the dress from. Measure and cross mark this back shoulder distance on the fabric at the shoulder blade level line. BASIC BODICE BLOCK DRAPING STEPS – BACK 1. Pin the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center back position on the dress from. Align the neck line position mark of the fabric to the center back neck position on the dress from. 2. Pin and drape the back cross grain line of the fabric to the shoulder blade level on the dress from. Pin the arm plate cross mark ¼” away from plate (At armhole ridge). Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level. NOTE:-This line is correctly draped in to position when the drape hangs freckly and evenly without any drag or pulled down look. Also, the lower edge of the drape shoulder hangs parallel to the floor. 1. Drape in the back waist line dart (7”long and 11/4”wide) Smooth the fabric towards the side seam till the fabric passes the princess seam. Cross mark at the princess/ Waist seam measure and cross mark 7” up from the waist line on the back princess seam. At the waist line fold the princess seam cross mark to the 11/4” mark. Taper the dart to nothing at the 7”mark. 2. Clip the waist line fabric at the center of the princess panel up to the button of the waist seam tape. Smooth the fabric across the waist tape till the fabric passes the side seam. Pin at the side seam/ waist corner. 3. Drape the back side seam by smoothing the fabric pat the side seam and flat over the dress from pin in place. 4. Drape and smooth the back neck line by carefully trimming the excess fabric around the neck area and clipping at intervals. Continue to smooth the fabric over the shoulder of the dress form and pin in place. 5. Drape in the back shoulder dart (3”long and ½”wide) straight at the neck line. Smooth the fabric over the shoulder seam of the dress form to the princess seam and cross mark on the princess seam at the shoulder, measure towards the armhole ½” and cross mark. Also on the princess seam measure down 3” from the shoulder seam. Fold the fabric from the shoulder seam cross mark to the ½” cross mark. Taper the dart to nothing at the 3” cross mark. 6. Mark all key area of the dress from to the fabric. · Neck line Cross mark at center back neck and at neck line/ shoulder corner. Lightly mark remainder of neck line. · Shoulder seam and shoulder dart. · Lightly mark shoulder seam and cross mark shoulder dart and shoulder ridge corner. · Arm plate. a) Top at shoulder seam ridge. b) Middle at screw level. c) Bottom at the side seam cross mark. · Side seam – lightly mark · Waist line and waist dart seam waist and both side of the dart. Check the drape by spinning the front and back side seam and front and back shoulder seam together before proceeding to the next steps. 1. Remove the fabric from the dress from and lay flat on table. If you are planning to true up the fabric on the paper complete the following steps. a) Draw in the straight of grain and cross grain on the pattern paper. Place the fabric on top of the paper. Notching the straight of grain and cross grain. b) With a trace wheel, transfer all the fabric markings on the paper. 2. Draw a short go degree angle at- Center front neck (1/4”) Center front waist (1/2”) Center back neck (1”) Center back waist (1”) 1. Draw in the front darts using a straight ruler. Front waist darts (1” from the open through the waist dart cross mark) Front shoulder dart (1” from the open through the shoulder dart cross mark) Back waist dart (vanishing point through waist dart cross mark) Back shoulder dart (vanishing point to back waist dart through shoulder dart connect other shoulder dart cross mark. PRINCESS PANEL 1. Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the straight of grain) from the neck band to the waist and add 5” snip and tear the fabric this length. 2. Fold the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the fabric piece in half length wise. [...]... princess seam in place 2 Mark all key areas of the dress from on the side back panel Princess seam and style line notches (match to center back panel double notches) Arm plate Shoulder seam at ridge Middle of plate at screw level Bottom of plate at side seam Side waist Waist line 3 Remove the drape from and true up all lines Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance Pin the... front to the side seam (at the hip level) and add ½” ease Transfer this measurement to the fabric Using the mark draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center front grain line 6 Determined the back side seam Measure from center back to the side seams (at the hip level) and add ½” for ease Transfer this measurement to the fabric Using this mark, draw a side seams perfectly parallel to the center back... and back Dart _ front and back BASIC STRAIGHT SKIRT BLOCK TRUENING STEPS 1 Remove the fabric from the dress form laid this drape flat on a table If you are planning to true up the fabric on to paper Complete the following steps – A) Draw in a straight grain line and the cross grain at the hip level on to pieces of paper B) Re measure the hip and ½” ease Transfer this measurement to the paper Draw a. .. side seam line at this position parallel to the grain line (Do this for both the front and back skirt) C) Place the fabric drape on top of the paper matching the straight grain and the cross grain and hip level The side seam line should match automatically D) With a trace wheel, transfer the waist line, darts, and side seam marking on to the paper 1 Draw a short 90” angle at – 1) Center front waist... entire garment together and place the drape on the dress from check for accuracy fit and hang THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK DRAPING THE FABRIC 1 Measure the length for the front and back panel (along the 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 straight grain) from the neck band to the hip area and add 5” Snip the tear the fabric this length Fold the fabric from salvage to salvage snip and tear the fabric piece in half... line notches (Match to center back panel double notches) - Arm plate - Shoulder seam at ridge - Middle of plate at screw level - Shoulder seam - Side seam 1 Remove the drape from the dress form and true up all lines Add seam allowance Trim all excess fabric leaving all seam allowance Pin the entire garment together and place the drape on the dress form Check for accuracy, fit and hang THE TORSO LENGTH... at side seam c.) Shoulder seam d.)Side seam 4 Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true up all lines Add seam allowance Trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance pin to front panel front and place on the dress from to check seams, notches and balance THE TORSO LENGTH PRINCESS BODICE BLOCK DRAPING STEPS SIDE FRONT TORSO PRINCESS PANEL 1 Pin the grain line of the side back panel... Side seam Waist line 1 Remove the side front panel from the dress from and true up all the lines Add seam allowance Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance Pin to front panel and return to check seam notches and balance THE PRINCESS BODICEBLOCK DRAPING STEPS CENTER BACK PRINCESS PANNEL 1 Pin the center back grain line fold of the fabric to the center back position of the dress from Align and line... back waist (1”) 2 Draw the front and back waist dart – 1) Locate the center of each dart 2) Using a straight ruler, draw a line for the center of each dart parallel to the grain line and the length of the desired dart at vanishing point (3 ½” for the from dart and 5 ½” for the back dart) 3) Using a straight ruler Complete drawing the reminder of the dart Draw the outer edges of the dart from the vanishing... point to the waist line cross mark 3 Draw the side seam Using a hip curve ruler place the straight part of this ruler to the side seam/waist corner and the side seam (as illustrated) 4 Draw the waist line Fold and pin in the waist dart With the darts folded in place Use the hip curve ruler and draw in the waist line NOTE: - At this time, match and walk front and back bodies waist to the skirt waist . Side waist Waist line 3. Remove the drape from and true up all lines. Add seam allowance trim all excess fabric, leaving all seam allowance. Pin the entire garment together and place the drape. from the dress from and true up all the lines. Add seam allowance. Trim excess fabric, leaving all seams allowance. Pin to front panel and return to check seam notches and balance. THE PRINCESS. F ASHION D RAPING T ECHNIQUES A STEP-BY-STEP VISUAL GUIDE TO FASHION DESIGN PRESENTED BY : KHUSHBOO KHUNTWAL B. Sc. FT. 1ST YEAR DIPLOMA FASHION TECHNOLOGY SUBMITTED TO DEZYEN