The Dressmaker''s Handbook of Couture Sewing Techniques- Essential Step-by-Step Techniques for Professional Results - by Lynda Maynard

[...]... and highlight a V-neckline and don’t want to get involved with the more complicated and tedious process of making a band that mitres at the point of the V The fabric for the band may be the same colour as the garment or a contrast Stabilize the neckline 1 Interface the neckline Cut a piece of fusible interfacing the shape of the neckline for each garment piece, making it the width of the seam allowance... eliminates the need for backstitching and further reinforces the point Note • It is of the utmost importance to have the point of the V perfectly situated and not offset to the left or right For this reason, it is helpful to mark the V area with a ruler and a fine chalk line before staystitching BANDED V-NECK ON KNIT FABRIC Prepare the band 3 Cut the neckband strip Attach the band Sew and press the shoulder... stitch in place Measure the length of the entire neckline Place the garment right side up Align the cut edges of the and add 10cm (4"); this is the length to band with those of the garment, leaving a tail about 5cm cut the band Decide how wide you want (2") long extending past the point of the V as shown; pin the band to be and add the width of your at the V and a short way up the neckline but not around... dimension the back of the neck Once the band has been correctly to find the width to cut the band Cut the positioned, it is easier to stitch from the wrong side, where band in your determined dimensions on the staystitching is visible Starting exactly at the point, the crossways grain of the knit fabric – so stitch directly on top of the staystitching Use a tiny stitch that the stretch runs the length of the. .. the band Press the work as sewn to embed the stitches, then With the garment wrong side very carefully (using sharp scissors) clip only the up, slide the unattached end of Note garment fabric to-but-not-through the staystitching at the band over the secure end the V Grade the seam allowances (the allowance and pin it in place • Now is the time to check and make sure your band is an even width all the. .. zigzag stitch crosses and falls off the edge of the band – it’s this single zigzag that pulls the band into a scallop Test this on a sample to see how it works 4 Fold the ribbon On the side of the V where the ribbon is anchored all the way to the point, fold the ribbon in half lengthways to the wrong side of the garment – so it covers the stitches; press A detail of the picot edge 25 BINDINGS AND FINISHES... chiffon Stabilize the neckline Prepare the binding 1 Interface the neckline 3 Cut and fold the bias strip Cut a piece of silk organza the shape of the Follow steps 2 and 3 of Double-Fold neckline for each garment piece, making Silk Charmeuse Binding, page 30, to cut a it about twice the width of the seam bias strip and fold it to the right size for allowance Pin or hand-tack in place in the the binding neck... the right side to see that the overlap is flat and neat Continue stitching the band to the remainder of the neckline; stop exactly at the point Pivot your work and stitch the end of the underlap to the overlap at the V and trim away the excess band tails The band tails from the wrong side Style suggestion • The band finish is a great way to showcase the V-neckline on this T-shirt 21 BINDINGS AND FINISHINGS... smoothly around the curve (no manhandling or pulling, just encouragement) Once stitched down, press the entire bias binding towards the seam allowance 3 Repeat the process for the other edge of the strip, but this time don’t bring the cut edge all the way to the first fold – you want one side of the bias to be a little wider than the other A difference of 2mm (1⁄16") is ideal 5 Join the binding ends... eliminates the need for allowances open Because you’re working the finished garment and therefore not backstitching and further reinforces the with woven fabric, you’ll need a bias strip optimal The edges of the organza are point Backstitching in this area can pull of fabric for the band – this will enable it pinked and loose and so will not imprint the garment into the netherworld beneath to follow the back . PM COU 00 1-0 07_.indd 3 8/25/10 10:37:49 AM LYNDA MAYNARD COUTURE THE DRESSMAKER’S HANDBOOK SEWING TECHNIQUES of essential step -by- step techniques for professional results COU 00 1-0 07UkA&C_.indd. a ready-to-wear garment with a couture version of the same garment and you will know that the couture creation is better. It’s in the hang, the fit, the feel and the details. Among the details. the need for backstitching and further reinforces the point. Note • It is of the utmost importance to have the point of the V perfectly situated and not offset to the left or right. For this