Tailoring The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket

[...]... the most handwork Hand stitching, called padstitching, attaches hair canvas interfacing to the collar and lapels as it builds in shape Although it is the most timeconsuming method, custom tailoring has stood the test of time and is as appropriate today as it was in the past The custom method sets the standard of a fine-quality garment When sewing time is limited, choose one of the faster methods; they... machine Choose the tailoring method that will retain the character of the fabric and will shape the pattern as designed The custom method provides firm shaping in the collar and lapel area, but allows the softer drape of the fabric to be retained in the body of the garment This is also true of garments tailored by the machine method; however, the machine stitching may be visible on the undercollar,... organized according to the sequence recommended for constructing a tailored jacket and may vary from the order usually given in the pattern guidesheet The undercollar is tailored first to give you an idea of how the fabric handles and an opportunity to practice unfamiliar techniques on a smaller piece of fabric before proceeding to the lapels Custom tailoring methods are shown first, followed by the faster... selecting interfacing and notions, too, as these choices depend on the method of tailoring you want to follow THE STANDARDS OF TAILORING Tailoring uses advanced techniques and materials to change a flat piece of fabric into a three-dimensional garment with structure and shape Tailored jackets and coats are molded to body contours with interfacings to create permanent shape in the collar and lapels Shoulder... attached so they do not show from the right side of the finished garment Sleeves hang straight without diagonal wrinkles in the sleeve cap Lining has enough wearing ease so movement does not cause strain on the fabric Buttons fit through buttonholes easily and are lifted away from the garment by shanks to prevent strain and wear on the buttonholes Pockets lie flat and fit the curve of the body Custom Tailoring. .. examine the guidesheet to determine the complexity of the pattern Look at the shapes of the pattern pieces, the layout, and the steps in construction Check if the roll lines are marked on the pattern tissue or whether you will need to mark them yourself Pattern Features for a Tailored Garment Tailored collar may be notched for traditional tailored look, or shawl style for a softer look Bound buttonholes... But tailoring techniques are also important for building in shape, adding support, and stabilizing other jackets and coat styles, such as collarless cardigan jackets Some jacket designs combine tailoring and dressmaking techniques to achieve the softly tailored look intended by the designer Tailoring Methods Three methods are available for tailoring a garment: custom, machine, and fusible Custom tailoring. .. method of tailoring, select the machine method After making a few garments, many tailors find that they prefer one method over another Others combine custom, machine, and fusible methods, using different methods in different areas of the same garment For example, you may prefer to shape the collar and lapels using the custom method, yet save time by fusing interfacing in the vent areas and attaching the. .. select one of the faster methods, read through the custom method first for a better understanding of the shaping technique and desired results Regardless of the tailoring method you choose, the result will be a beautifully tailored jacket or coat MAKING SELECTIONS There are many choices to make as you begin any jacket or coat project Selecting a pattern is a good place to start Browsing through the pattern... Custom Tailoring Method A custom-tailored garment is constructed using the traditional method of tailoring This method is the most time-consuming because it requires a great deal of handwork TAILORING FEATURES Hand padstitching is used to attach the interfacing and to shape the garment Hair canvas sew-in interfacing is used to shape the garment front, undercollar, and hems Taping the lapel roll line and . w0 h0" alt="" THE CLASSIC GUIDE TO SEWING THE PERFECT JACKET Tailoring