142 fabric sewing guide Số trang: 530 trang Ngôn ngữ: English Introduction All sewing (fashion garments, artwear, home décor, accessories, and quilts) begins with the fabric, and understanding the fabric is the key to success. Claire Shaeff er’s Fabric Sewing Guide focuses on the fabrics and materials used to make garments. It is designed to give you the confi dence to sew fabrics you have not sewn before and the skills to sew all fabrics better. Th is single-volume reference includes complete and practical information for sewing all of today’s fabrics, but since there will be more new materials tomorrow, next month, or next year, this book also provides the information you need to develop the skills and techniques needed to sew those fabrics successfully. Th e book is organized for easy reference, with seven sections and extensive appendices: part one: Prologue, presents the basics of planning a garment. part two: Fiber Content, outlines the characteristics of fi bers, natural and manufactured. part three: Fabric Structure, describes the various weaves and knits with the details for sewing them. part four: Fabric Types, describes methods for handling fabrics with specialty surfaces and structures. part five: Interfacings and Linings, provides complete details about lining, interfacing, and other fabrics used for interior support. part six: Sewing Techniques, describes the basic techniques referenced in the previous sections. part seven: Appendices and Glossaries is a comprehensive listing of important textile terms and frequently used fabrics. Unlike most sewing books, which focus only on techniques, this guide focuses on fabrics and their characteristics, as well as how to sew them successfully. It will help you select fabrics and become a more knowledgeable consumer, even if you don’t sew. It addresses fabric-related situations that cannot be included on pattern guides and warns you about problems or mistakes before they occur. It will help you choose the most appropriate techniques for individual garments and fabrics, depending on the garment quality and use, as well as your time commitments and sewing experience. (For example, if I am sewing an everyday wash-and-wear cotton blouse, I choose quick-and-easy machine techniques that will launder well. When sewing a cotton tapestry party dress that will be dry-cleaned, I use more hand sewing and design details.) Th is book will broaden your understanding of fabrics and sewing techniques so you can apply your knowledge intelligently. It includes many fashion photographs from friends, colleagues, homesewers, fashion-focused businesses, and vintage collections that will stimulate your imagination for future designs. My personal style is classic and appropriate for my age and lifestyle, and yes, there are some designs that refl ect my taste, particularly those from the Custom Couture Collection, which I design for Vogue Patterns. But this is a book for everyone who sews, so I have included designs appropriate for many diff erent lifestyles, age groups, and individual tastes that are quite diff erent from those I sew and wear. I have also included some vintage garments because the designs showcase the fabrics well, include interesting details, and provide inspiration for new designs. I might add that I oft en see the infl uence of designs from the past in the current collections of the world’s best designers. Some photographs show the garments on dress forms, others are on models, both professional and amateur. You will see a variety of fi gure types since my readers can be any age and any size. I have also included a few fabulous quilts, some accessories, and home décor items because they are easy to sew and provide a great way to learn to sew on diff erent fabrics. How to Use This Book Th is sewing guide is organized for easy reference. First, identify your fabric, its fi ber content, structure, and type, including its texture, weight, transparency, and surface design. Th en review any appropriate sections in the book that apply. I usually begin my review with the fabric type unless it’s a fi ber I have not sewn recently. For example, if the fabric is a striped silk chiff on, like the design on page 49, I begin with the fabric types: Sheers, Stripes, and Prints. If I haven’t sewn lightweight silks recently, I’ll review the section on Lightweight Silk. Each fabric section begins with the fabric’s characteristics so you will know what to expect. Th e sewing checklists summarize the basic equipment, supplies, and techniques for handling the fabric. Th e core of the section details specifi c information for planning the garment, design ideas, selecting quality fabrics, sewing notes for layouts, cutting, marking, stitching tips, construction details, pressing techniques, and garment care. If you have never made a particular type of seam or seam fi nish, need a refresher on a technique, or want to learn new techniques, look for step-by-step instructions in Part Six, Sewing Techniques. If you want to expand your knowledge of techniques even more, consult my other books, Couture Sewing Techniques (Taunton Press, 2001), and High Fashion Secrets from the World’s Best Designers (Rodale Press, 2001). My book, Sew Any Fabric: A Quick Reference Guide to Fabrics from A to Z (Krause Publications, 2003), is a handy, quick guide for shopping expeditions and getting started. When you encounter an unfamiliar textile or fabric term, look it up in the Fiber and Fabric Glossary. It includes a brief defi nition and reference for similar materials. To expand your knowledge, begin a swatch library, using the glossary as a guide. To answer your most frequently asked questions, I have provided appendices with detailed information about needles, threads, interfacings, topstitching, and identifying your fi ber types, as well as a resource list for fabrics, patterns, and notions. Th is fabric sewing guide was written for you. To reap the most from it, read it from cover to cover and make notes in it. Describe the fabrics you sew, the techniques you like or don’t like, and your ideas for future designs or trims. Th is book is only a springboard. It is designed to stimulate your creativity and provide the knowledge you need to sew with confi dence. Dare to experiment with new ideas and new fabrics and share them with me.
CLAIRE SHAEFFER’S FABRIC SEWING GUIDE 2nd Edition Claire Shaeffer’s FABRIC SEWING GUIDE 2nd Edition SEWING Claire Shae er’s Fabric Sewing Guide is your one-stop sewing resource. Internationally respected author, lecturer, college instructor and columnist, Claire Shae er has completely revised her classic standard on fabric. is encyclopedic guide to the selection, wear, care, and sewing of all fabrics has been updated to include comprehensive information on: • Fiber Content • Fabric Structure • Fabric Types • Interfacing and Linings • Sewing Techniques is new full-color edition contains everything you need to know, and will surely be a reference you will review again and again. In addition to an extensive glossary with answers to the most common sewing questions, this must-have guide includes easy-to-read charts for needle sizes and thread and stabilizer types. Join a world of cra ers at www.mycra ivity.com. Connect. Create. Explore. )3".8 )3". Z0933 US $39.99 EAN (CAN) $43.99 Z0933_Shaeffer_cov.indd 1Z0933_Shaeffer_cov.indd 1 7/24/08 5:14:13 PM7/24/08 5:14:13 PM Krause Publications Cincinnati, OH 45236 www.mycraftivity.com • Connect. Create. Explore. FABRIC SEWING GUIDE CLAIRE SHAEFFER’S Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 1Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 1 8/1/08 10:21:11 AM8/1/08 10:21:11 AM Krause Publications 4700 East Galbraith Road Cincinnati, OH 45236 © 2008 by Claire Shae er Published by All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages in a critical article or review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper, or electronically transmitted on radio, television, or the Internet. Other ne Krause Publications titles are available from your local bookstore, cra supply store, online retailer or visit our website at www.fwpublications.com. 12 11 10 09 08 5 4 3 2 1 Project Manager: Jay Staten, Toni Toomey Content Editor: Barbara Smith Copyeditor: Barbara Weiland Tagart Illustrations: Rachael Knier and Rachael Smith Cover designer: Julie Barnett Interior designer: Sandy Kent and Rachael Smith Photography (unless otherwise credited): Claire Shae er and Sarah Benson Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Shae er, Claire B. [Fabric sewing guide] Claire Shae er’s fabric sewing guide / by Claire Shae er. Rev. ed. p. cm. ISBN 978-0-89689-536-2 (pbk. : alk. paper) 1. Textile fabrics. 2. Dressmaking. 3. Sewing. I. Title. TT557.S53 2008 646.40028 dc22 2008017158 e following registered trademark terms and companies appear in this publication A.C.E.®, Acrilan®, Agilon®, Airlo ®, Alaskine, Alcantara®, Anso®, Antron®, Aqua Shell®, Aqua Shell®, Aquator®, Armo® Wool, Armo® Rite, Arnel®, Avisco XL®, Avlin®, Avril®, Avron®, Avsorb®, Ban-Lon®, Barge™ cement, Barge™ glue, Beau-Grip™, Bernina®, Bernina® Aurora 440, Bi-Lo ®, Bio Fresh, Biz, Blue C®, Borgana®, Bully Lock, Byrd Cloth®, Cadon®, Caprolan®, Captiva®, Caressa™, Casuwool®, Celanese®, Celebrate®, Chinella®, Chromespun®, Citi eece, Cleer- span®, Clover™ tire thread, Coloray, Comfort Fiber®, ComFortrel XP®, Com- Fortrel®, Comiso®, Comulo ®, Cool Wool®, CoolMax®, Cordura®, Core-Lock™, Courcel®, Courtek M acrylic™, Creora®, Creslan®, C- ru® Ruler, Dacron®, Dan-Press®, Dantwill®, Darleen®, Darlexx Superskin®, Darlexx®, Dorlastan®, Dow XLA™, Drima™, Drizzle Cloth™, Dryline®, Dura Spun®, Du-Rel®, Du- rene®, Durvil®, Dynel®, Eco l®, Eco-Friendly™ Batting, Eco-Friendly™ Batting Blend, EcoSpun®, Ecsaine®, Eloquent Luster™, Eloquent Touch™, Encron®, Enka® viscose, Enkacrepe®, Enkair®, Enkalure®, Enkasheer®, Entrant®, ESP®, Espa®, Essera®, Estron®, Eucalan® Woolwash, EZ® Stitch- ru, Facile™, Fairtex®, Fantastik®, Fibermet®, Fi-lana®, Fine Fuse®, Formula 409®, Fortisan®, Fortrel® MicroSpun®, Fortrel®, Fox bre®, Furelle®, Fusi-Knit®, Glore-Valcana®, Glospan®, Golden Glow™, Golden Touch™, Gore-Tex®, Gore-Tex®, Hang Loose™, Harris Tweed®, Heat’n Bond®, Helanca®, Herculon™, Hi-Tech Sup- plex®, Hollo l®II, Hump Jumper®, Hydro l®, Ingeo®, Interspan®, JetSpun™, Jean-a-ma-jigs®, Ji y Fuse™, Kevlar®, Kinder eece, K-Kote Plus®, Knit Fuze™, Kodaire™, Kodalite, Kodel®, Kodo ll™, Lamous®, Lastex™, Lenzing Lyocell®, Lenzing Modal®, Lethasuede, Lifa®, Lorette®, Lurelon®, Lurex®, Lustra®, Lycra®, Marimekko®, Matte Touch®, Maxi-Lock®, Metalastic®, Metlon®, Me- tro ock®, Metrolene®, Metrosene Plus™, Mettler Poly Sheen®, Micro Modal™, Micro ®, Micromattique MX®, Microso ®, Microsupplex®, MicroSupreme®, Microtherm®, Milium®, MiniMicro®, Mitin®, Mylar®, Mystique™, Natural Luster®, NatureTex™, Naugahyde®, Needle Glide®, No Shock®, Nomelle®, No- mex®, Norae®, Nordic Fleece®, Nupron®, Opelon™, Orlon®, Palm Beach®, Pa- Qel®, Pellon®, Pil-Trol™, Plyloc™, Polar eece®, Polarguard®, PolarLite®, Polar- Plus®, Polartec®, Polartec® Power Dry®, Polartec® Power Shield™, Polartec®, Power Stretch®, Posder Dry®, Prima®, Qiana®, Qiviut®, Quallo l®, Quick Knit, Quick Liner®, Remember®, Retayne, Revere®, ReviveX®, Rexe®, Rib-It®, Savina DPR®, Savina®, Savina DPR®, Scotchgard®, Seam Sure™, Seams Great™, SEF®, Sensuede®, Sensura®, Sesua®, Sewers’ Aid®, Shanton®, Shareen®, Shimmereen™, Slinky®, Sofrina®, So Skin®, So Touch®, So alon®, So-Lara®, SolarKnit®, Solarweave®, Sorbit®, Spandaven®, Spandura®, Spanzelle®, Stitch Witchery®, StretchAire®, Strialine®, Stunner®, Sulky®, Sunbrella®, SunRepel®, Superlo ®, Superwash®, Supplex®, T.E.N.®, Tackle Twill®, Tactel Micro®, Tactel®, Tactel Micro®, Tanera®, Taslan®, Te on®, Teklan®, Tencel®, Terylene®, ermax®, ermolite®, ermolite®, insulate®, insulate® Lite Lo , inTech®, Tre- vira®, Tu ex®, Turtle Fur®, Type 420®, Tyvek®, Ultra Touch®, Ultraglow®, Ul- traleather®, Ultrasuede®, Ultrex®, Ultron®, Velcro®, VelvaBoard, Verel®, Ver- satech®, Vincel®, Vyrene™, WeatherBloc®, Whisper We ®, Windbloc®, Wind Pro®, Wonder-Under®, Xena®, Yukon Fleece®, Zankara®, Zantrel®, Zefran®, Ze ron®, Zirpro®, Zitkrome® Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 2Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 2 8/1/08 10:21:25 AM8/1/08 10:21:25 AM Since I have accepted my obsession and acknowl- edged that I like collecting fabrics almost as much as I like sewing them, I’m very well adjusted. A er all, everyone collects something (recipes, coins, stamps, dolls, wine, guns, woodworking equipment, records, china gurines, records, videos) or has a hobby to enjoy in his or her leisure hours, so it’s all right for me to collect fabrics. Unlike most collections, the only constant in mine is change. I am an avid sewer, and unlike many fabric collectors, I have the con dence to cut or sew any fabric. Long ago, I decided to discard fabrics that no longer meet my standards, are the wrong color, or make me feel guilty. I don’t have room for them to clutter my space and life. For me, sewing ful lls both the desire to make something creative and to show it o , and part of my joy is taking a risk to achieve the unexpected and conquer the unknown. I love to experiment, try new techniques, ne-tune old methods, and combine fabrics and designs innovatively. Most of my results have been successful, and some have been stunning creations be- yond my wildest expectations. When I have the occasional failure, I remind myself that professionals have them, too, and it really is no worse than burning the brownies. is book is the only comprehensive sewing reference that focuses on fabrics. It be- gan several decades ago when I rst taught Sewing Special Fabrics at the College of the Desert in Palm Desert, California. ere was no book that came close to being a text- book. As I researched my subject, I realized that, in addition to the wealth of material on special fabrics scattered in a variety of di erent sources, a great deal of information about traditional fabrics was no longer available, some of the information provided by the home-sewing industry was incorrect, and many of the techniques I had learned as a professional had never been put into print. So the project mushroomed into a very large book that includes techniques for sewing all types of fabrics. e information is based on my experiences as an educator and professional home sewer; interviews with design- ers, experts, and educators in the home-sewing and fashion industries; visits to factories and designer workrooms; research in consumer and trade publications; research in the costume collections at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Metropolitan Museum of Art, Fashion Institute of Technology, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Phoenix Art Mu- seum, and the Museum of the City of New York; countless snoop-shopping expeditions to examine ready-to-wear in all price ranges; and reexamining the garments in my own personal collection. e Second Edition has been revised extensively to incorporate new fabrics, bers, design ideas, and techniques. It continues to be the most comprehensive reference available and includes 300 diagrams and 248 color photographs. If you are new to sewing, you will nd all the basic information needed for your rst projects. As you grow more experienced, you will discover a variety of construction al- ternatives and learn to select di erent methods appropriate for the ber, fabric, garment’s use, your skill level, time available, and personal preferences. If you are an educator, sew- ing professional, or a very experienced home sewer, you will be inspired by the many new ideas, and you will learn new ways to apply skills you already have. I know I am obsessed. Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 3Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 3 8/1/08 10:21:26 AM8/1/08 10:21:26 AM O , I and businesses who provided information and photographs for the original edition (1989) and the updated edition (1994). For this Second Edition, I would like thank the following: e businesses and individuals who provided fabrics and products: American & E rd, Inc. (Mettler), Bernatex, Britex Fabrics, Coats & Clark, Emma One Sock, Marcia Cohen, Jean Dilworth, Something Wonderful!, Plumridge Inc., Sawyer Brook, Sew Beautiful magazine, Linda Stewart, Superior reads, Audrey Szmyd, Terri Tipps, Guter- mann of America, Inc., and YLI. Everyone who provided photographs: Jennifer Amor, Lisa Aherns, Susan Andriks, Ileana Andruchovici, Apple Annie Fabrics, Paula Archbold, Karen Augusta, Australian Stitches magazine, Kathy Bar- nard, Annie Barnes, Sarah Benson, Bernina of America, Inc., Dani- elle Billing, Sharon Blair, Barb Blum, Ellie Bremer, Kathryn Brenne, Bonnie Browning, Nancy Cain, Linda Calvo, Christie Chase, Ruth Ciemnoczolowski, Marcia Cohen, Barbara Cohn, Lynn Cook, Mary Corbett, Susan Crane, Terry Crawford, Anna Csaba, Patti Dee Wa- zny, Joyce DeLoca for Signe, Jean Dilworth, Pamela Erny, Karen Evanetz, Karmen Flach, Jessica Franklin, Wendy Gardiner, Michelle Gillmartin, Gini’s Greyhound Fashions, Nancy Gray, Judy Gross, Melissa Hayden, Bianca Herrera, Sara Hochhauser, Ho man Me- dia, Cathie Hoover, Doreen Hund, Susan Igou, Anna Marie Isaac- son, Mimi Jackson, Jana Jamieson, Tomasa Jimenez, Laura Johansen, Adrena Johnson-Telfair, Mary Johnson-Voss, Christine Kazmerzak, Kayla Kennington, Kacie Killen, Juliette Kimes, Leah Klingelhofer, Sandi Knutie, Rachel Kurland, Michelle LaFortune-Wamego, Car- ol Lambeth, Joy Landeira, Martha Leefson, Marie Lehfeldt, Justine Limpus Parish, Stephanie Link, Angel Livingston, Justine Livings- Acknowledgments. Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 4Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 4 8/1/08 10:21:29 AM8/1/08 10:21:29 AM ton, Linda Macke, Joi Mahon, Make It With Wool, Hazel Matthys, Barbie McComick, Kwik Sew Co., Diane McPartland, LJ Designs, Elaine Mintzer, Debbie Mocnik, Gayle Moline, Jon Moore, Patricia Mundwiler, Teresa Nieswaag, Tammy O’Connell, Meredith Olds, Phoenix Art Museum, Cheryl Pollock, Alison Ray, Mary Ray, Faith Reynolds, Bob Ruggiero, David Sassoon, Paula Sca di, Penny Schwyn, Melissa Schultz, Claudia Scroggins, Denise Severson, Dennita Sewell, Lisa Shepard Stewart, Rachel Siegel, Silhouette Patterns, Simplicity Pattern Co., Sandy Snowden, Cherrelle Sowell, Shelma Sperry, Rosemary St. Claire, Gabrielle Stanley, Linda Stewart, Marinda Stewart, Susan Stewart, Linda Teufel, e McCall Pattern Co., Taunton Press, Cathy omas, Dot Treece, Charles Whitaker, Darlene Wilson, and Debra Young. Every e ort has been made to provide appropriate credit. If the credit is incorrect or missing, please advise. Sarah Benson, for photographing numerous fabrics and garments, organizing the photographs and photo releases, and making samples. Cheri Collins for developing the stabilizer chart. Bernina of America, Inc. for continued support and excellent equip- ment. My colleagues, students, and Internet friends who shared their ex- pertise and enthusiasm. My parents, the late Juanita and Louie Brightwell, who gave me wings and taught me how to use them, and my husband, Charlie, who supports and encourages me. My editors Toni Toomey and Vanessa Lyman and the sta at F+W Publications for their expertise, support and countless hours of hard work and attention to detail. Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 5Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 5 8/1/08 10:21:52 AM8/1/08 10:21:52 AM of Introduction, 10 Chapter One Basic Guide for Sewing Any Fabric, 12 Plan the Garment, 13 | Design Ideas and Pattern Selection, 19 | Assemble the Equipment, 21 | Sewing Notes, 25 | Urban Myths, 31 | How to Sew a Zebra, 32 PART ONE PROLOGUE Chapter Two Natural-Fiber Fabrics, 34 Cotton, 34 | Ethnic Cottons, 40 | Linen, 40 | Hankerchief Linen, 45 | Ramie, 45 | Hemp, 46 | Bamboo, 47 | Silk, 48 | Silk Blends, 52 | Lightweight Silks, 56 | Wool, 61 | Woolens and Worsteds, 62 | Lightweight Wools, 69 | Textured Woolens, 71 | Worsted Suitings, 72 | Wool Coatings, 74 | Washable Wool, 78 | Hair Fibers, 79 PART TWO FIBER CONTENT Chapter Three Manufactured-Fiber Fabrics, 82 Rayon, 82 | Lyocell, 84 | Acetate and Triacetate, 86 | Nylon, 88 | Polyester, 90 | Lightweight Polyesters, 94 | Acrylic, 97 | Modacrylics, 99 | Stretch Fibers, 99 | DOW XLA, 101 | PLA, 101 | Ole n, 101 | Micro bers, 102 | Wicking Fibers, 105 Chapter Four Leathers, 106 Leather and Suede, 106 | Pigskin, 115 | Shearling, 115 Chapter Five Synthetic Suedes, 118 Chapter Six Nonwoven Plastics, 124 Pleather and Vinyl, 124 | Vinyl Laminates, 128 Chapter Seven Fur, 129 Chapter Eight Feathers, 138 Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 6Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 6 8/1/08 10:22:02 AM8/1/08 10:22:02 AM Chapter Nine Woven Fabrics, 140 Plain Weave, 140 | Twill Weave, 143 | Denim, 145 | Loosely Woven, 148 | Satin Weave, 154 | Wash-and- Wear, 154 Chapter Ten Stretch Fabrics, 157 Stretch Wovens, 157 | Elasticized, 161 Chapter Eleven Knits, 163 Knit Types, 163 | Zebra, 171 | Jersey and Single, 172 | Double, 175 | Interlock, 180 | Textured, 181 | Sweatshirt, 184 | Mesh, 186 | Tricot, 187 | Milanese, 189 | Sweater, 190 | Ribbing, 193 | Stretch Terry and Velour, 195 | Power Stretch, 198 | Power Net, 201 | Fleece, 202 | Slinky, 205 PART THREE FABRIC STRUCTURE Chapter Twelve Sheers, Open Weaves, and Meshes, 208 Crisp Sheers, 215 | So Sheers, 219 | Mesh and Open-Weave, 221 Chapter Thirteen Lace and Net, 223 Lace, 223 | Net, 233 Chapter Fourteen Special Occasion Fabrics, 236 Satin and Sateen, 236 | Ribbed, 241 | Ta eta, 245 | Brocade, Damask, Matelasse, and Jacquards, 248 | Pleated, 252 | Metallics, 257 | Embellished, 260 | White, 263 Chapter Fifteen Napped and Pile Fabrics, 266 Napped, 266 | Pile, 268 | Corduroy, 271 | Velveteen, 274 | Velvet, 277 | Panné and Devoré Velvets, 282 | Woven Terry and Velour, 283 | Tu ed Piles, 285 | Fake Fur, 287 PART FOUR FABRIC TYPES Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 7Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 7 8/1/08 10:22:08 AM8/1/08 10:22:08 AM PART FIVE INTERFACINGS AND LININGS PART SIX SEWING TECHNIQUES Chapter Twenty-Two Interfacings, Linings, and Battings, 350 Interfacings, 350 | Underlinings, 357 | Linings, 359 | Battings and Insulating, 363 Chapter Twenty-Three Seams, 366 Abutted, 366 | Appliqué, 367 | Bound, 369 | Channel, 372 | Corded, 372 | Decorative, 372 | Double-Cloth, 373 | Double-Lapped, 373 | Double- Ply, 373 | Double-Stitched, 373 | Double-Welt, 373 | Draw , 373 | Drapery French, 374 | Enclosed Seam Allowances, 374 | False Merrow, 375 | False French, 375 | Flat-Fell, 375 | Flatlocked, 377 | French, 377 | Fringed, 378 | Fur, 379 | Hairline, 380 | Insertion, 380 | Laced, 381 | Lapped, 381 | Leather, 382 | Machine-Felled, 383 | Machine- Rolled, 383 | Nonwoven, 383 | Piped, 385 | Plain, 387 | Reversed, 387 | Self-Finished, 387 | Serged, 388 | Sheer, 389 | Slot , 389 | Standing-Fell, 390 | Stand-up, 390 | Strap, 391 | Stretch, 391 | Taped, 392 | Tissue-Stitched, 394 | Topstitched, 394 | Tucked, 394 | Twin-Needle, 396 | Wadmal, 396 | Welt, 396 | Whipped, 396 | Wrong-Side-Out, 397 | Zigzagged, 397 Chapter Sixteen Felt and Felted Fabrics, 294 Felt, 294 | Felted Fabrics, 296 Chapter Seventeen Reversible Fabrics, 299 Double-Faced, 299 | Double-Cloth, 302 | Double- Faced Quilted, 309 Chapter Eighteen Quilted Fabrics, 313 Single-Faced Quilted, 313 | Custom Quilting, 316 Chapter Nineteen Plaids and Stripes, 318 Plaids, 318 | Tartans, 329 | Checks, 329 | Stripes, 329 | Diagonals, 333 Chapter Twenty Prints and Border Designs, 336 Prints, 336 | Large-Scale Prints, 338 | Border Designs, 339 Chapter Twenty-One Technical and Outerwear Fabrics, 342 Technical, 342 | Outerwear, 343 | Neoprene, 348 Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 8Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 8 8/1/08 10:22:18 AM8/1/08 10:22:18 AM PART SEVEN APPENDICES AND GLOSSARIES Appendix A General Sewing reads, 455 Appendix B Sewing Machine Needles, 458 Appendix C Needle and read Guide for Machine Stitching, 460 Appendix D Stabilizers, 462 Appendix E Interfacings, 466 Appendix F Burn Tests for Fiber Identi cation, 475 Tips for Topstitching, 476 Fiber and Fabric Glossary, 478 Glossary of Sewing Terms, 508 Index, 512 Resources, 522 Additional Reading, 526 About the Author, 527 Chapter Twenty-Four Seam and Hem Finishes, 398 Seam Finishes, 398 | Hem Finishes, 402 Chapter Twenty-Five Hems, 403 Plain, 403 | Faced, 406 | Quick, 407 | Interfaced, 407 | Machine Blindstitched, 409 | Narrow Machine Hems, 410 | Mitered, 412 | Topstitched, 414 | Weighted, 417 | Miscellaneous, 417 Chapter Twenty-Six Edge Finishes, 422 Bands, 422 | Bindings, 423 | Elastic, 430 | Facings, 431 | Ribbing, 433 Chapter Twenty-Seven Closures, 434 Button Loops, 434 | Buttonholes, 435 | Covered Snaps, 444 | Ties and Straps, 444 | Zippers, 444 Chapter Twenty-Eight Hand Stitches, 448 Backstitch, 448 | Basting, 448 | Blanket, 449 | Blindstitch, 449 | Blind Catchstitch, 449 | Buttonhole Stitch, 449 |Catchstitch, 450 | Cross- Stitch, 450 | Fell, 450 | Figure-eight, 451 | Overcasting, 451 | Pad, 451 | Running, 451 | Stabstitch, 452 | Slipstitch, 452 | Tailor’s Tacks, 452 | Whipstitch, 453 Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 9Z0933i_Shaeffer_p001-011.indd 9 8/1/08 10:22:23 AM8/1/08 10:22:23 AM [...]...Introduction All sewing (fashion garments, artwear, home décor, accessories, and quilts) begins with the fabric, and understanding the fabric is the key to success Claire Shaeffer’s Fabric Sewing Guide focuses on the fabrics and materials used to make garments It is designed to give you the confidence to sew fabrics you have not sewn before and the skills to sew all fabrics better High fashion... fabrics You can create trendy avant-garde designs, couture creations, or practical everyday wearables Today, there are hundreds of different fabrics, but many are sewn using similar techniques This fabric sewing guide focuses on the most frequently sewn fabrics In each chapter, I have included suggestions for planning the design and preparing the fabric, along with some sewing notes The Fiber and Fabric. .. variety of groups: fabrics that reflect new technology, unique fabrics that are not readily available, unusual fabrics that have limited uses, specialty fabrics that interest only a few home sewers, any fabric or material that you have never sewn Fabrics that incorporate new technology or include new fibers, unusual fabric construction, or a different finish are “zebras.” For example, fabrics such as... textile terms and frequently used fabrics Unlike most sewing books, which focus only on techniques, this guide focuses on fabrics and their characteristics, as well as how to sew them successfully It will help you select fabrics and become a more knowledgeable consumer, even if you don’t sew It addresses fabric- related situations that cannot be included on pattern guides and warns you about problems... books, Couture Sewing Techniques (Taunton Press, 2001), and High Fashion Secrets from the World’s Best Designers (Rodale Press, 2001) My book, Sew Any Fabric: A Quick Reference Guide to Fabrics from A to Z (Krause Publications, 2003), is a handy, quick guide for shopping expeditions and getting started When you encounter an unfamiliar textile or fabric term, look it up in the Fiber and Fabric Glossary... glossary as a guide To answer your most frequently asked questions, I have provided appendices with detailed information about needles, threads, interfacings, topstitching, and identifying your fiber types, as well as a resource list for fabrics, patterns, and notions This fabric sewing guide was written for you To reap the most from it, read it from cover to cover and make notes in it Describe the fabrics... different fabrics How to Use This Book This sewing guide is organized for easy reference First, identify your fabric, its fiber content, structure, and type, including its texture, weight, transparency, and surface design Then review any appropriate sections in the book that apply I usually begin my review with the fabric type unless it’s a fiber I have not sewn recently For example, if the fabric is... described the garment, consider the fabrication Review the fabrics in your collection, visit fabric retailers, examine the latest mailorder swatches, and survey current trends Goodquality, natural-fiber fabrics never go out of fashion, and since I do not live near a store with fine fabrics, 13 (Photo courtesy of The McCall Pattern Co.) Plan the Garment The first phase of sewing, planning the garment, is... select a less expensive fabric, but finish it with findings appropriate to its quality 8/1/08 10:22:52 AM chapter one: basic guide for sewing any fabric Claire' s Hint more flattering to large figures than those that outline the silhouette Medium values are usually more slimming than dark or light ones, but in the Sunbelt states, light and bright colors may be better All shiny fabrics—satin weaves, metallics,... an underlining so the fabric and design will work well together? Consider your sewing skills, difficulty of the design, characteristics of the fabric, amount of time available, and your patience Unfortunately, you will have an occasional failure It happens to the very best sewers, so do not be discouraged 15 When sewing complicated designs, I often select easy-to-sew fabrics When sewing simple styles, . CLAIRE SHAEFFER’S FABRIC SEWING GUIDE 2nd Edition Claire Shaeffer’s FABRIC SEWING GUIDE 2nd Edition SEWING Claire Shae er’s Fabric Sewing Guide is your one-stop sewing resource. Internationally. credited): Claire Shae er and Sarah Benson Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Shae er, Claire B. [Fabric sewing guide] Claire Shae er’s fabric sewing guide / by Claire Shae. the key to success. Claire Shae er’s Fabric Sewing Guide fo- cuses on the fabrics and materials used to make gar- ments. It is designed to give you the con dence to sew fabrics you have not