Different types of sewing machines

Ashikur Rahman Ranok Bgmea University of fashion & Technology(BUFT) What is Sewing Machine? • A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together with thread • A sewing machine is a machine which does all the stitches automatically, so it's easier and quicker than hand stitching • A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other material together with thread Features of Basic Sewing Machines Basic sewing machines in garments industry are used for numerous applications Generally available in three versions : i Sewing with light materials ii Sewing with medium materials iii.Sewing with heavy materials Speed up to 6000 s.p.m with electronic controls for acceleration Electronically controlled thread cutting, needle positioning, back tacking mechanism through the foot pedal, foot lifting system available in this machines Programmable sewing sequence via a micro processes for repetitive operation A great variety of feed systems, attachments and apparatus available to make the machine more versatile Types of Sewing Machines According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing machines: Manually operated sewing machines :     Driven by physical energy Used for domestic and tailoring purposes Less production, but more laborious Low cost Electrically operated or Industrial sewing machines :     Usually driven by electric power High productivity Used in garments industry Cost is high Electrically operated/Industrial Sewing Machines  At present there are used two types of electrically operated sewing machines in garments industry : o Semi-automatic electrical sewing machines o Computerized sewing machines  Most common manufacturer of electrical/industrial sewing machines (semi-automatic) are given below: Brand Name Made in JUKI Japan BROTHER Japan SINGER England BUTTERFLY China SiRUBA Taiwan  There are various types of electrically operated or Industrial sewing machines Among them, features of some most usable machines are described below : Lock Stitch or Plain Stitch Sewing Machine o No of needle : generally needle or needles o SPM : 1500 – 5500 o Stitch Length : mm in Juki DDL 5500 Model o Automatic thread cutting and bobbin winding o Edge cutting system o More secured sewing o Most commonly garments used for sewing of woven Fig : Lock Stitch Machine Chain Stitch Sewing Machine o Two types : Single Chain Stitch and Double Chain Stitch o No of needle: One or more o No of thread : One or more o SPM : 1800 – 6000 o Stitch Length : 1.4 mm to 4.5 mm o Automatic thread trimmer o Various types of feed mechanism is adjusted to the machine o Used for both woven and knitted fabrics, specially to sew jeans or denim wears Fig : Chain Stitch Machine Over Lock/Over Edge Sewing Machine • • • • No of needle: or No of threads : - SPM : 6500 – 8500 Stitch Length : 4mm (maximum) and it can be adjusted by push button • Stretching : Maximum 1: 0.6 and Gathering : Maximum 1:4 • Used for sewing both woven and knitted goods, but extensively used for knitted goods Fig-4 : Zigzag Lock Stitch Sewing Machine Flat Lock Sewing Machine No of needle: up to No of threads : to SPM : 6000 Stitch Density: to 16 per inch Thread consumption of this machine is very high So very expensive machine  Used for knitted garments But it can be also used for woven garments      Fig-5 : Flat Lock Sewing Machine Blind Stitch Sewing Machine          No of needle: No of threads : or SPM : 2500 Stitch Length : to mm Stitches are not seen on the face side of the fabric Curved needle is used Security is high for thread blind stitch machine Very expensive Widely used for hemming and facing attaching Fig-6 : Blind Stitch Sewing Machine Button Holing Machine Stitch Group : Lock or Chain may be used For heavy fabric, hole is cut before sewing For lighter fabric, hole is cut after sewing Arrangement of stitch density being increased or reduced  To raise the stitch is called ‘Gimp’     Fig-7 : Button Holing Machine Button Attaching Machine  Produces lock stitch, chain stitch or hand stitch  Button positioning can be automatic  Sewing is according to the hole in button and may be cross or parallel  In fully automatic machines, button feeding and positioning inside the button clamp is performed by a hopper and pipe Fig-8 : Button Attaching Machine Bar Tack Machine  Cyclic machine of strong sewing in very short length  After making tack stitch in short length (1-2cm), cover stitch (zigzag) is made on tack stitch and the no of cover stitch  Used for sewing of belt loops, closing the ends of button holes, for increasing strength at the ends of the pocket Fig-9 : Bar Tack Machine Computerized Sewing Machine  Used for very fast and accurate sewing  Very expensive and require very efficient operator, so rarely used in our country  Some examples of mostly used computerized sewing machines are given below : • • • • • • • • Computer Controlled Cycle Machine with large Sewing Area Cylinder Bed Machine with Automatic threads Trimming 1-Needle, lock stitch unison feed machine with double capacity 1-Needle, lock stitch portable Sewing machine with Automatic thread Trimmer 2-Needle, 2/3/4 thread over lock sewing machine with built-in rolled hemming and differential feed Automatic Jeans pocket setter with new automatic bobbin winder/changer 3-Needle, plain feed double loop seam machine with Tractor type presser foot High speed, lockstitch, buttonhole machine Fig-10 : Computerized Sewing Machine Maintenance of Sewing Machine The following maintenance points are to be considered carefully: Machine should be cleaned every day Essential parts of the machine should be lubricated or oiled regularly Needle should be adjusted carefully Needle thread, bobbin thread or looper thread should be threaded correctly and their tension should be adjusted The pressure of pressure of pressure foot should be adjusted Stitch density should be adjusted Switching (on/off) should be proper Machine should be handled according to instruction The hand wheel should always be rotated towards the operator 10 Bobbin thread should be wound in uniform tension 11 During fabric feed and with drawl, the needle should be picked at the top most position and the pressure foot is lifted 12 One-fifth portion of bobbin should always remain empty after winding thread Thanks to All ... make the machine more versatile Types of Sewing Machines According to the operating system, there are two types of sewing machines: Manually operated sewing machines :     Driven by physical... used two types of electrically operated sewing machines in garments industry : o Semi-automatic electrical sewing machines o Computerized sewing machines  Most common manufacturer of electrical/industrial... hand stitching • A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, cards and other material together with thread Features of Basic Sewing Machines Basic sewing machines in garments