8 CLASSES SEAM

8 CLASSES SEAM Author- Younus Miraj Shanto-Mariam University of Creave & Technology UTTARA-DHAKA INTRODUCTION In apparel manufacturing seams are former when two or more pieces of fabric are joined by stitches. Seams have three dimensions: length, width & depth. Seam is the join between two & more plies of material. Seams are usually formed by welding, adhesives, stitching or other joining means are sometimes used. According to British Standard Seam is the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thickness of material for functional or decorative purposes. There are a number of different types of seams that have been developed over the years to do different jobs. While many seam have largely been superseded by the development of machine stitches that finish as you sew them, and by the development. it is useful to know some of the basic seams types and finishes. A lack of expensive machinery need not prevent you sewing the garments you want. Also, some of the older methods have never been bettered. Here I am concentrating on machine sewn seams using a standard straight stitch machine. WHAT IS SEAM? Seam is the combination of stitch which makes line to join two ply of fabric. Seam is Used as functional purpose. Sometimes, it used as decorative purpose. When you have chosen your fabric and pattern, you need to think about the most suitable way to sew the garment together. This will depend partly on the type of fabric, partly on the use the garment will get, and partly on the finish you want. PROPERTIES OF GOOD SEAM There are given the below properties of good seam: • Smooth fabric joints • No Missed or Uneven stitches • No damage to the material being sewn • Achievement of strength, elasticity, Durability, security and comfort • Comfortable while garment is in use CLASSIFICATION OF SEAM Seam construction– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991). The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes: • Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam) • Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam • Class 3 -Bound seam • Class 4 -Channel seam or flat seam • Class 5 -Ornamental seam • Class 6 -Edge neatening • Class 7 –No title • Class 8 - No title CLASS 1 –SUPER IMPOSED SEAM SEEM DEFINITION: The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the most common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In this seam, two plies of fabric are placed on one another perfectly & then the fabrics are sewn. The sewn edges of the fabrics remain in the same side. SEAM DIAGRAM: USED:  Attaching fabrics.  Collar, Cuff sewing, Cuff topstitching.  Collar band attach sewing and top stitching  Side seam and sleeve attach with safety-sticker. CLASS 2- LAPPED SEAM SEEM DEFINITION: • Formed by lapping two pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions. • In this category of seams in which two or more plies of fabric are overlapped with the raw edges exposed (for fabrics resistant to raveling) or the seam allowance is folded under and stitched with one or more rows of stitching. SEAM DIAGRAM: USED: main seaming of denim jackets, jeans, and overalls. Fabrics that will not ravel, unlined garments, side seams of shirts, joining lace to another fabric, attaching patch pockets, decorative finish CLASS 3- BOUND SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: • Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends. • In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the seam allowance of one ore more plies of fabric, are covered with a bias binding and stitched with one ore more rows of stitching. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used: finishing necklines, sleeves hems, inside waistbands of trousers and pants, finishing seams on unlined jackets and coats, adding interest as a design or decorative detail, finishing raw edges, continuing the motif design of lace. CLASS 4: FLAT SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: • Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level. • In this category of seams in which the raw edges of the fabric plies are abutted or just slightly overlapped and joined together with stitching that covers the joint. Flat seams do not contain seam allowances, reducing fabric usage but increasing thread quantity. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used: close fitting garments where the seam allowance may put pressure on the body, high-stretch fabrics athletic apparel, shape wear, undergarments, lingerie, thermal underwear, swimwear, sweatshirts with side panels or with raglan sleeves, eliminating bulk at seams, seaming pelts CLASS 5: ORNAMENTAL SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: • A seam class is used for decorative sewing on garments. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends. • In this category of seams that add ornamentation to one or more plies of fabric by creating straight or curved lines or a designated design. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used: Adding a design detail, cording, piping, tucking, welting, box or inverted pleating, decorative stitching. CLASS 6: EDGE NEATING SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: • Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening. Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end. • In this category of seam constructed with one or two plies of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment or item. There are three finishing types within the classification. First, secures a folded edge to the shell fabric by stitching, either on the face or back. Second, stitching is used at the edge or to cover the raw edges, and may or may not be folded. Third, applies a binding on a single ply of a seam allowance to finish raw edges. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used: To protect the fabric edge such that the warp yarns of the fabric cannot easily open. CLASS 7: NO TITLE SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used: These are sometimes called applied seams because they are mainly used to a decorative material to an edge of seam such as lace-elastic. CLASS 8: NO TITLE SEAM SEAM DEFINITION: Only one piece of component involved in construction the seam, stitches are applied on its edges. Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends. SEAM DIAGRAM: Used:  Mainly one piece of fabric used  This class is commonly used for waist belts and belt loops.  The edge of fabric is sewn by folding in various ways. [...]... demonstrates increased feed efficiency to handle extra heavy weight 16-ply denim and Engineered with extra feeding strength for seaming the inside of jeans The machine is best suited for lap seaming jeans, denim jackets, work uniforms, etc constructed of heavy weight materials Used: Side seam and under arm BUTTON HOLE MACHINE Machine Process • A machine-made buttonhole is usually sewn with two parallel rows... stitches for lapped side seams of woven shirts and jeans COVER STITCH ON INTERLOCK MACHINE OF STITCH CLASS 600 Machine Process Interlock Machine is a high speed with 3 Needles, and 5 Threads The machine includes a New Style Dial Micro type stitch length regulator; Differential feed Adjustment and Fully Automatic Lubrication Interlock stitch machine with cover thread for plain seaming This versatile... sewing machine arrangement depends on sequence of assembling operations POPULAR SEWING MACHINE IN GARMENTS INDUSTRY There are discussed the below popular sewing machine in garments industry: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 One needle lock stitch machine Over edge machine of stitch class 500 Two thread double chain stitch machine for stitch class 400 Cover stitch on interlock machine stitch class 600 Feed of the arm hole... Using the hand wheel on the side of the machine, lower the needle into the left hole of the button You may need to re-position the button a little to get the needle to clear the button hole perfectly 8 Still using the hand wheel, raise the needle so the needle moves to the right position (the right-most edge of the zigzag stitch) 9 Lower the needle so it hovers just above the button You're going to . Class 1 -Plain seam & French seam (SI Seam) • Class 2 -Welt seam or Lapped seam • Class 3 -Bound seam • Class 4 -Channel seam or flat seam • Class 5 -Ornamental seam • Class 6 -Edge neatening •. OF SEAM Seam construction– Categorized by the British Standards Institution (BS 387 0 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991). The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes: • Class 1 -Plain seam. Class 8 - No title CLASS 1 –SUPER IMPOSED SEAM SEEM DEFINITION: The seam of class-1 is called superimposed seam. This is the most common & mostly used seam for joining fabrics. In this seam,