Difficulties in vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the european union market in the period from 1992 to 2007

Leeds Metropolitan University Faculty of Business & Law DIFFICULTIES IN VIETNAM’S EXPORT Lu ận OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING TO THE n vă EUROPEAN UNION MARKET IN THE iệ gh tn tố PERIOD FROM 1992 TO 2007 p Nguyen Mai, Chi Ki nh Student ID: 77119652 tế In partial fulfilment for the requirements of the Master Degree in International Trade and Finance Dissertation Supervisor: Christine Ngo 2012 – 2013 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS First and foremost, I would like to say my deepest thanks to my supervisor, Christine Ngo, for her feedbacks and advices From the point of a supervisor, she suggested and encouraged me to complete the thesis My thanks also go to the lecturer of the research method module, Milton Yago, for providing me the background knowledge of how to implement a research Thanks to all the research participants The study would not have been completed without your valuable opinions Lu ận I would like to thank the staff of international training project-Academy of Finance too for their support and guide vă n Finally, my special thanks go to my family and dear friends for their tố understanding and encouragement during the researching process They have gh tn been by my side whenever I have had stress or tiredness I once more time say my most sincere thanks to all of them p iệ nh Ki tế ABSTRACT Vietnam is one of less developed countries which depend on export much, especially export of textiles and clothing Among many international markets, the European Union is one of the most potential markets for Vietnamese textiles and clothing export enterprises Beside achievements, these companies got a lot of obstacles The focus of this research is in the area of difficulties in Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the European Union market from 1992 to 2007 Such a study is important in order to enhance the understanding of difficulties and challenges in Vietnamese textiles and clothing export industry in general, Lu the understanding of common weaknesses of Vietnamese companies, barriers ận originated from the European Union and the competition of China in specific The vă secondary data and primary data of the thesis, in turn, were collected through the relevant literature and the implementation of interviews The findings from n this research provide evidence that the common weaknesses of Vietnamese tố textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies were mainly around tn the factors of labor, raw materials, market knowledge, capital resources, gh infrastructures, administrative procedure Besides, distribution, competition, iệ technology and exchange rate regimes were the other weaknesses It is also p shown that the state of the European Union affected Vietnam’s export of textiles Ki and clothing to the market mainly in terms of the socio-cultural and economic nh factors Further more, Vietnam had to cope with China’s five competitive aspects; they were labor cost, prices of products, modes of products, raw tế material inputs and government support The conclusion drawn from this study is obstacles Vietnamese companies got, originated from the lack of government support significantly This dissertation recommends that Vietnamese enterprises need to make efforts in order to enhance their inside potentiality, along with the support of the government to be against external barriers from the protectionism of the European Union, the competition of China, the other competitors as well TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ABSTRACT TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF TABLES LIST OF FIGURES LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION 1.1 Background of the study 1.2 Significance of the study 11 Lu 1.3 Research aims and objectives 12 ận 1.4 Boundary of the study 13 vă 1.5 Research design 13 n CHAPTER 2: LITERATURE REVIEW 14 tố 2.1 Introduction .14 tn 2.2 Common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies 14 2.3 The state of Europe Union affected Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market .21 gh p iệ 2.4 China’s competitive aspects, which Vietnam had to cope with in the export of textiles and clothing to the European Union market 24 CHAPTER 3: RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 29 Ki 3.1 Introduction 29 nh 3.2 Research strategy 29 tế 3.3 Data collection 30 3.4 Data Analysis 31 3.5 Limitations 32 CHAPTER 4: FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION 33 4.1 Introduction .33 4.2 Findings and discussion 33 4.2.1 Common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies 33 4.2.1.1 Human resources: Labor 33 4.2.1.2 Physical resources: Raw materials 35 4.2.1.3 Knowledge resources: Market knowledge .37 4.2.1.4 Capital resources 38 4.2.1.5 Infrastructures 39 4.2.1.6 Procedural 40 4.2.1.7 Other weaknesses 40 4.2.2 The state of the European Union affected Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market .42 4.2.2.1 Socio-cultural 42 4.2.2.2 Economic 43 4.2.2.3 The on-going Euro Zone crisis .44 4.2.3 China’s competitive aspects, which Vietnam had to cope with in the export of textiles and clothing to the Europe Union market 46 4.2.3.1 Labor 46 4.2.3.2 Prices and modes of products 48 Lu 4.2.3.3 Raw material inputs 48 ận 4.2.3.4 Import Quotas 49 4.2.3.5 Government support .50 vă CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS 52 n 5.1 Introduction .52 tố 5.2 Research objectives: Summary of Findings and Conclusions 52 tn gh 5.2.1 Research Objective 1: Common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies 52 p iệ 5.2.2 Research Objective 2: The state of the European Union affected Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market 54 nh Ki 5.2.3 Research Objective 3: China’s competitive aspects, which Vietnam had to cope with in the export of textiles and clothing to the European Union market 54 5.3 Recommendations 55 tế 5.3.1 Vietnamese companies .55 5.3.2 Vietnamese government 56 APPENDIX 58 Appendix 1: Learning Statement 58 Appendix 2: Top 20 less developed countries with a high dependence on clothing exports 62 Appendix 3: Some main goods for exportation .63 Appendix 4: Vietnam’s textiles and clothing export turnover to the Europe Union market 67 Appendix 5 : Interview form 68 Appendix 6: Statement of originality and authenticity 74 Appendix 7: Local Level Approval: Postgraduate Research Project .75 Appendix 8: Dissertation Proposal 77 REFERENCES 85 ận Lu n vă p iệ gh tn tố nh Ki tế LIST OF TABLES Table 1: Major steps in textiles and clothing production process Table 2: Skill requirements in garmenting Table 3: Hourly wage costs in the textile industry, selected countries, 1993 (US$) Table 4: Market share of clothing retailers in main EU countries - Percentages (EG-Studies KSA / Texco, 1990) Table 5: Data analysis approach Table 6: Structure of Imported T&G Commodities of Vietnam (%) Lu Table 7: Ceiling Interest Rates for Working Capital ận n vă p iệ gh tn tố nh Ki tế LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1: Textiles and Clothing Exports of Cambodia and Vietnam, 19972001 (in millions of US$) Figure 2: Hourly costs in the textile and clothing industry, 1998 (US$) Figure 3: Foreign investment in Vietnam’s textiles and garment industry: Foreign Investors in Vietnam by Origin (1997) Figure 4: The earnings of workers in China (1992-2001) Figure 5: China’s exports and FDI ận Lu n vă p iệ gh tn tố nh Ki tế LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS ABIT: Brazilian Textile and Apparel Industry Association APEC: Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation ASEAN: Association of Southeast Asian Nations ATC: Agreement on Textile and Clothing C/O: Certificate of Origin EU: European Union FDI: Foreign Direct Investment GATT: General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade Lu GDP: Gross Domestic Product ận GSP: Generalized System of Preferences vă HACCP: Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points MFA: Multi Fibre Arrangement n MFN: Most Favored Nation tố NSDC: National Skill Development Corporation gh T/C: Textiles and Clothing tn SOEs: State-owned Enterprises iệ UNCTAD: United Nations Conference on Trade and Development p USITC: United States International Trade Commission nh WTO: World Trade Organization Ki VITAS: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association tế CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION In the first chapter, the researcher would like to present the background of the study, the reasons why this topic is selected and the significance of this research The aim and objectives are also going to be identified specifically 1.1 Background of the study Globalization has been much concerned by the whole world for a long time, meanwhile international trade has played a very important role in socio- Lu economic development Especially, exports have significant impacts on the ận economic growth of a nation; therefore, many developing countries have the trend of pursuing industrialization on exports Vietnam is also not out of this vă trend n Export activity has had great influences on Vietnam’s economic growth for years It has tố many affected Vietnam’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) tn considerably “Goods and services exports now constitute around 70 per cent of gh Vietnam's GDP up from a 30 per cent share recorded in the mid 1990s” iệ (Department of foreign affairs and trade - Australia, 2012) According to Ho Chi p Minh city department of industry and trade (Feb 2005), the export turnover of Ki Vietnam reached over $ 26 billion in 2004; it was 28.9% over the previous year, nh which made the GDP growth rate of Vietnam ranked first in the region in 2004, higher than that in 2003 Jodie Keane and Dirk Willem te Velde (2008, quoted in tế UNCTAD, 2005 and WTO, 2006) stated that Vietnam belonged to the top 20 less developed nations with a high dependence on the export of clothing See appendix 2: Top 20 less developed countries with a high dependence on clothing exports Strong competitions on export market among countries indirectly improve the quality of merchandise in the global, as well as products produced by Vietnamese enterprises Vietnam is a member of WTO, APEC etc So that, it forces this nation to produce better products in order to create competitive advantages This is essential because Vietnam’s manufacturing capacity and technology are worse than many other countries too Exportation, besides, changes the economic structures of nations Previously being an inward economy, Vietnam has become an outward one Further more, export promotion 10 ận Lu n vă p iệ gh tn tố nh Ki tế 79 Appendix 8: Dissertation Proposal Introduction 1.1 Background of study Globalization recently has been concerned by the whole world for a long time, and international trade has played an important role in socio-economic development Especially exports have significant advantages for the economic growth of a country; therefore, many developing countries have the trend of pursuing industrialization on exports Vietnam is not out of this trend too Lu Export activity has great influences on economic growth It affects ận Vietnam’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) considerably “Goods and services exports now constitute around 70 per cent of Vietnam's GDP up from a 30 per vă cent share recorded in the mid 1990s” (Department of foreign affairs and trade - n Australia, 2012) According to Ho Chi Minh city department of industry and tố trade, Feb 2005, The export turnover of Vietnam reached over $ 26 billion in tn 2004; it was 28.9% over the previous year, which made GDP growth rate of gh Vietnam ranked first in the region in 2004, higher than that in 2003 Fierce iệ competition on export market among nations indirectly improves the quality of p merchandise over the world, as well as products made by Vietnam Vietnam is a to have competitive advantages It is essential nh products Ki member of WTO, APEC etc Hence, it forces this country to produce better as Vietnam’s manufacturing capacity and technology are also worse than many other nations tế Exportation, besides, changes economic structures of nations Previously being an inward economy, Vietnam has become an outward one Moreover, export promotion reduces unemployment and improve living conditions Last but not least, export partly promote external economic relationships Some major merchandise exports of Vietnam are rice, crude oil, sea products, coffee, pepper, rubber, coal etc Especially, textiles and clothing are goods exported much Vietnam government determines they are essential exported merchandise and always facilitate this export Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing has had certain difficulties; however, its achievements cannot be rejected General Statistics Office of Vietnam (n.d) listed main goods for the exportation of Vietnam from 1995 to 2010 The value of textiles exported 80 has been upward year by year See appendix 1: Some main goods for exportation The United State and the Europe Union (EU), Japan and Korea are said to be important destinations of Vietnam textiles and clothing export In 2001, the export turnover to the Europe Union was 741,011,500 Euro (Ho Chi Minh city department of industry and trade, 2004) See appendix 2: Vietnam’s textiles and clothing export turnover to the Europe Union market In 2004, the textiles and clothing export turnover of Vietnam reached $ 4,32 billion, an increase of 17,2%; it reached $ 663 million when exporting to the EU market, an increase of 32% (Ho Chi Minh city department of industry and trade, 2005) As be known, EU has been a large and potential market for Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing EU is a big area in term of population It has 27 Lu member states “The population of the European Union reached 502.5 million on ận January 2011 according to data provided by the statistical office of the European Union This is one million and a half more than a year ago.” (Merco vă Press, 2011) It is definitely populous EU is located in Western and Northern n Europe In spite of being a union of many member states, there are socio- tố economic similarities among these member states Being a sustainable economy, tn Europeans have quite high standard of living For fashion items, they pay gh attention to the quality and fashion of products more than their prices It p iệ requires manufacturers to produce quality products which are trendy Ki 1.2 Significance of study nh In his report, Hal Hill (1998), who comes from Australian National University, said that “Failure to achieve export success in this industry is invariably tế symptomatic of deep seated domestic obstacles and an inability to build on strong potential comparative advantage.” So that, what are specific obstacles this industry has to face with? Athough many previous studies have emphasized the challenges in textiles and clothing exportation, the quantity is still quite few Furthermore, they are not really specific and clear “The MFA was an explicit attempt to protect developed country producers by restricting exports of textiles and clothing from developing to industrialised countries It sought to provide temporary protection to developed country firms to undertake the changes necessary to compete against lower cost producers from developing countries.” (Khalid Nadvi and John Thoburn, 2003) Following Habubank Securities in 2011, Vietnam had a big competitor that was China and especially the economic 81 situation of EU affected Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market negatively “Despite many decades of tariff reduction under the aegis of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) and the World Trade Organization (WTO), trade barriers remain high.” (Sangeeta Khorana and Kwok Tong Soo, n.d.) This research is carried out with the aim of finding out more systematic, clear, specific difficulties, especially it focuses on Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the EU market only It has been definitely a potential market There are many Vietnam’s firms produce textiles and clothing products and export them to this market Their success will contribute much to the development of the industry, as well as the GDP of the country Hence, it is considered to be Lu more really necessary to this research Enterprises know their challenges ận well, which will help them to identify which position they are in, what they are good at and what they need to improve Knowing the reasons is the way helping vă them to find out the solutions n tn tố Statements of problem Specific research questions will be explored in this study: iệ and manufacturing companies? gh What are the common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export p How does the state of Europe Union affect Vietnam’s export of textiles and Ki clothing to this market? the Europe Union market? nh How does competition affect Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to tế Aims of study To identify the common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies To evaluate the impact of the state of Europe Union to Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market The current state of Europe Union can affect positively in terms of some aspects and negatively in terms of the others To evaluate the impact of competition to Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the Europe Union market 82 Literature review This research is going to be conducted to find out difficulties in Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the Europe Union market Specifically, it focuses on common weaknesses of Vietnam’s textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies, the impact of the state of EU and competition to the exportation of this country 4.1 Common weaknesses of Vietnam textiles and clothing export and manufacturing companies The textile and clothing (T/C) is a big industry and the manufacturing process of T/C is quite complex Brussels (2003) defined it is a diverse and heterogeneous Lu industry; the series of products are various such as hi-tech synthetic yarns, wool ận fabrics, cotton bed linen, industrial filters, nappies, haute couture etc In his working paper, Brussels (2003) also pointed out the complex process of vă producing textiles It included preparation and spinning of textiles fibres, finishing of n weaving, textiles, manufacture of made-up textile articles, tố manufacture of other textile, manufacture of knitted and crocheted fabrics and tn manufacture of knitted and crocheted articles The more complex the process of gh manufacture is, the many more related problems firms have iệ In order to identify difficulties, weaknesses which companies have to face p with more easily and clearly, Porter (1990) divided factors of production into Ki categories: human resources (quantity, skills, cost of personnel etc.), physical nh resources (land, water, mineral deposits, climate conditions, geographic location etc.), knowledge resources (the nation’s stock of scientific, technological, market tế knowledge), capital resources and infrastructures In addition to this abovementioned division, Golam Robbani (2004) adopted from USITC (2004), identified infrastructure as (1) roads, ports, rail and air for moving of good in and out of the country, (2) shipping and other transportation times and costs, (3) access to reliable sources of energy, water and telecommunications Identifying weaknesses based on above factors and categories is clear and adequate 83 4.2 The state of Europe Union affects Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to this market When evaluating the impact of the state of EU to export countries, Werner (2001) emphasized EU trade regime He mentioned mainly EU import quotas, customs tariffs, preferential trade agreements Although they are important aspects, it is inadequate There are many other aspects, factors which affect exportation According to Jappe (2009), the quota regime and the supply chain were also mentioned in the evolution of EU trade policy towards textiles and clothing export nations As mentioned by Y ves Bourdet, joakim Gullstrand and Karin Olofsdotter in their 2007 work, the gravity model was applied to estimate the effects of the Lu state of EU trade policy on developing countries exports It focused on issues ận such as trade preference schemes, regional trading blocs, customs unions, exchange-rate regimes “It has constantly gained in popularity and use partly as vă a result of improved theoretical underpinnings.” (Y ves Bourdet, joakim n Gullstrand and Karin Olofsdotter, 2007) This is a good model to apply Besides, tố socio-cultural situation is also an indirectly factor which affects EU trade policies gh tn and the potential of this market p Europe Union market iệ 4.3 Competition affects Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing to the Ki It cannot be denied that EU is one of the most potential market in the world nh Consequently, there are many countries seek chances to get into this market and gain a market share Competition among export nations has certain impacts tế to Vietnam’s export of T/C Each nation, besides, also has its own competitive advantages Understanding those of competitors and how they affect Vietnam export, it is easier for this nation to find out solutions Porter (1990) used the competitive advantage of nations theory to compare textiles industries, to identify competitive strengths and weaknesses among nations Its determinants are factor endowment, demand conditions, supplying and related industries, rivalry conditions However, this above determinants were not specific Golam (2004), adopted from USITC, gave out factors of competitiveness very clearly and specifically; they are business climate, infrastructure, proximity and preferential access to market, labour and management, raw-material inputs, level of service provided and reliability of 84 supplier Each factor is divided into categories See appendix 3: Factors of Competitiveness Research methodology This research will be carried out with methods of data collection and data analysis with the aim of maximize its reliability and validity Besides, strategies and limitations or potential problems are also going to be raised in this part 5.1 Research strategy For the research, quantitative and qualitative research is its overall research strategy “Quantitative-refers to research that is concerned with quantities and Lu measurements Qualitative research, on the other hand, is linked to in-depth Biggam, 2011) ận exploratory studies, where the opportunity for ‘quality’ responses exist.” (John Both quantitative and qualitative researches have own vă strengths Alexei (2002, quoted in Frankfort-Nachmias & Nachmias, 1992) n pointed out that the quantitative method helped researchers to state the tố research problem in very specific and set terms It is one strength of tn quantitative method Applying qualitative method, researchers can obtain more gh realistic findings; it is a flexible way to perform data collection, analysis and interpretation of collected information, also said Alexei (2002) Each method has iệ p its advantages; hence, applying both of them will maximize the quality of this Ki research nh For sampling technique, convenience sampling will be used to choose participants As mentioned by John (2011), this type is often applied for the tế form of exploratory research The research is conducted with the aim of exploring difficulties in Vietnam’s export of textiles and clothing For the study, employees and managers of Vietnam’s T/C export and manufacturing enterprises, who are easier for the researcher to approach, will be selected participants Hence, the researcher can save a lot of time to find out potential participants and get their most detailed and significant ideas 5.2 Data collection In this research, interview will be applied to collect data The researcher would like to get information, ideas from people who directly work for T/C export and 85 manufacturing companies, managers of those firms They have many more experiences in this field than the others So that, the data will be reliable Secondary data is a convenient source too It is a wide source of data The researcher finds it easy and fast to approach This type of data can be collected through related books, journals, newspapers, annual reports, studies, websites etc On the other hand, secondary data can be not updated and not reliable if the researcher is not careful in the process of collecting data; so that, it is necessary to select reliable and updated source to collect data 5.3 Data Analysis In the process of conducting interviews, they will be broken down into specific Lu themes according to the specific objectives of the research It helps the ận interviewers and interviewees to be more concentrated and collect exact and clear data Especially, this supports the process of data analysis After collecting vă data, the responses of participants will be reviewed, compared and contrasted to n each themed groups of interview questions, said John Biggam (2011) After that, tố the responses will be evaluated and synthetized gh tn 5.4 Limitations iệ Despite the fact that the researcher will make efforts to take advantages of p interviews, potential problems can happen The quality of the interviews and tế Research ethics nh be not exact because of the bias of interviewees Ki collected data depends on the behavior of interviewees Moreover, the data can Before conducting interviews, the necessary information and aims of the research will be introduced to interviewees The researcher will get permission from them before collecting data Especially Interviewees’ personal information will be kept in confidential The collected data will be used in academic thesis only 86 Timeframe Timescale of the main stages of the study is planned as follows Timeline Stag Implementation Oct Nov Dec Jan Feb Mar Apr 2012 2012 2012 2012 2013 2013 2013 2013 e Sep Literature review & X X X secondary data collection Approach and Lu get permission X X ận from sample Data analysis & Research X X p iệ gh conclusion X tn evaluation X tố Interviews n vă for interviews The timescale can be adjusted in the process of researching in case unexpected nh Ki things happen tế Resources There are some necessary things and equipments needed for the researcher to fulfill the study They include a laptop, internet, library, a voice recorder for interviews 87 REFERENCES Alexei, V M (2002) The advantages of employing quantitative and qualitative methods in intercultural research: practical implications from the study of the perceptions of intercultural communication competence by American and Russian managers Quoted in: Frankfort-Nachmias, C., & Nachmias, D (1992) Research methods in the social sciences (4th ed.) 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