HƯỚNG dẫn sửa CHỮA XE PEUGEOT 205

HƯỚNG DẪN SỬA CHỮA XE PEUGEOT 205

Covers mechanical features of Vans

Does not cover diesel engine or T16 Turbo models

© Haynes Publishing 1996

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced or

transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or

mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any

information storage or retrieval system, without permission in

writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 189 8

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Printed by J H Haynes & Co Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr YeovilSomerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury ParkCalifornia 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(932 - 272 - 10Y12)

LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 205

ROADSIDE REPAIRS

WEEKLY CHECKS

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

XV, XW and XY engines in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1

Fuel system - single-point fuel injection engines Page 4B•1

Fuel system - multi-point fuel injection engines Page 4C•1

Exhaust and emission control and exhaust systems Page 4D•1

Transmission

Brakes and Suspension

Body Equipment

REFERENCE

The Peugeot 205 was introduced in the UK in September 1983 as a

five-door Hatchback with a transversely-mounted engine and

trans-mission assembly driving the front wheels The suspension is of front

coil springs and rear transverse torsion bars

Three engine sizes were originally available, featuring a chain driven

overhead camshaft design mounted directly over the transmission The

GTi was introduced in the Spring of 1984 and was fitted with a

belt-driven overhead camshaft engine with a side-mounted

transmission The GTI engine is equipped with an electronically

controlled fuel injection system

In October 1984 three-door versions became available, with an X

series designation, in addition to the three-door GTI Van versions were

introduced in June 1985, together with the limited edition Lacoste,

based on the GT version In September 1985 the XT was introduced,being a three-door version of the GT, and at the same time the 954 cc

XL three-door was introduced, having a higher specification than the

XE The 1580 cc Automatic was introduced in April 1986 at the sametime as the Cabriolet CTI The XS replaced the XT in July 1986, atwhich time the limited edition Junior, based on the XE, becameavailable The 1.9 GTI was introduced in August 1986, and at the sametime dim-dip headlights and rear seat belts were fitted as standard InDecember 1987 the new TU engines and MA transmissions were fitted

to all except fuel injection, diesel and automatic models

Latest models feature single- and multi-point fuel injection, with fullemission control equipment and a sophisticated engine managementsystem

Your Peugeot 205 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from yourvehicle It can do so in several ways It can help you decide what workmust be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage),provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give alogical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur.However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the workyourself On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the carinto a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it Perhapsmost important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs agarage must charge to cover its labour and overheads

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function ofthe various components so that their layout can be understood Thenthe tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-stepsequence

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrationsshowing spark plug condition Certain illustrations are the copyright ofPeugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with theirpermission Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, whoprovided some of the workshop tools, and to Duckhams Oils whoprovided lubrication data, also to all those people at Sparkford whohelped in the production of this manual

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us No liability can be accepted by the authors

or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

The Peugeot 205 Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and

enthusiastic people working in close co-operation The

team responsible for the creation of this book included:

John Mead

Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill

Paul Tanswell Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum

enjoyment from your car By carrying out routine

maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s

reliability and preserve its resale value.

Working on your car can be dangerous.

This page shows just some of the potential

risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a

safety-conscious attitude

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion

tank cap while the engine is hot

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or

power steering fluid may also be dangerously

hot if the engine has recently been running

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system

and from any part of the engine Brake discs

and drums can also be extremely hot

immediately after use

under a car which

is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening

high-torque nuts when the vehicle is on stands

Initial loosening and final tightening should

be done with the wheels on the ground

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is

explosive

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights

(including pilot lights) anywhere near a

vehicle being worked on Also beware of

creating sparks

(electrically or by use of tools)

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t

work on the fuel system with the vehicle over

an inspection pit

• Another cause of fire is an electrical

overload or short-circuit Take care when

repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type

suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires

work on or near the

ignition system with

the engine running or

the ignition switched on

• Mains voltage is also dangerous Makesure that any mains-operated equipment iscorrectly earthed Mains power points should

be protected by a residual current device(RCD) circuit breaker

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes arepoisonous; they oftencontain carbonmonoxide, which israpidly fatal if inhaled

Never run theengine in aconfined spacesuch as a garagewith the doors shut

• Fuel vapour is alsopoisonous, as are the vapours from somecleaning solvents and paint thinners

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid andwith any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especiallyantifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Dieselfuel Don’t syphon them by mouth If such asubstance is swallowed or gets into the eyes,seek medical advice

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil cancause skin cancer Wear gloves or use abarrier cream if necessary Change out of oil-soaked clothes and do not keep oily rags inyour pocket

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms apoisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame(including a cigarette) It can also cause skinburns on contact

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled

or swallowed Asbestos may be found ingaskets and in brake and clutch linings

When dealing with such components it issafest to assume that they contain asbestos

substance containing the acid Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which hassuffered a fire, or with components salvagedfrom such a vehicle, wear protective glovesand discard them after use

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, whichattacks clothing, eyes and skin Take carewhen topping-up or carrying the battery

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery

is highly explosive Never cause a spark orallow a naked light nearby Be careful whenconnecting and disconnecting batterychargers or jump leads

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go offaccidentally Take care when removing thesteering wheel and/or facia Special storageinstructions may apply

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at veryhigh pressure Take care when working onthe fuel injectors and fuel pipes

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair wellout of the way of moving mechanical parts

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, beforeworking on the vehicle – especially theelectrical system

• Do ensure that any lifting or jackingequipment has a safe working load ratingadequate for the job

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy componentwhich may be beyond your capability – getassistance

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or takeunverified short cuts

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slipand cause injury

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying aroundwhere someone can trip over them Mop

up oil and fuel spills at once

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in ornear a vehicle being worked on

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with

common roadside emergencies and breakdowns You will find

more detailed fault finding information at the back of the

manual, and repair information in the main chapters

If your car won’t start

and the starter motor

doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the

battery is probably flat Get out of trouble by jump starting

(see next page) using a friend’s car

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank?

M Is there moisture on electrical components under thebonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obviousdampness with a dry cloth Spray a water-repellent aerosolproduct (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel systemelectrical connectors like those shown in the photos Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connectorand HT leads (Note that Diesel engines don’t normallysuffer from damp.)

Check the security of all the fuel injection system wiring

connectors (where applicable)

D

Check that all ignition wiring connectors such as this at thedistributor are secure and spray with water dispersant ifnecessary

B

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by

pushing them home

A

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them

with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

When jump-starting a car using abooster battery, observe the followingprecautions:

4 Before connecting the boosterbattery, make sure that the ignition isswitched off

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment(lights, heater, wipers, etc) isswitched off

4 Make sure that the booster battery isthe same voltage as the dischargedone in the vehicle

4 If the battery is being jump-startedfrom the battery in another vehicle,the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCHeach other

4 Make sure that the transmission is inneutral (or PARK, in the case ofautomatic transmission)

Jump starting will get you out

of trouble, but you must correct

whatever made the battery go

flat in the first place There are

three possibilities:

1The battery has been drained by

repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

2The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack

or broken, alternator wiring fault or

alternator itself faulty).

3The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to

the positive (+) terminal of the flat

battery

Connect the other end of the red lead tothe positive (+) terminal of the boosterbattery

Connect one end of the black jump lead

to the negative (-) terminal of thebooster battery

Connect the other end of the blackjump lead to a bolt or bracket on theengine block, well away from thebattery, on the vehicle to be started

4

Make sure that the jump leads will notcome into contact with the fan, drive-belts or other moving parts of theengine

5

Start the engine using the boosterbattery, then with the engine running atidle speed, disconnect the jump leads inthe reverse order of connection

6

Jump starting

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary

according to model For instance, the location

of the spare wheel and jack is not the same

on all cars However, the basic principles

apply to all vehicles

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary

M If you have one, use a warning triangle toalert other drivers of your presence

M Apply the handbrake and engage first orreverse gear

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of largestones will do for this

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece ofwood to spread the load under the foot

of the jack

Finally

M Remove the wheel chocks Stow thejack and tools in the appropriatelocations in the car

M Don’t leave the spare wheel cradleempty and unsecured – it could droponto the ground while the car is moving

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheeljust fitted If it is low, or if you don’t have

a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly

to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre

to the correct pressure Have thedamaged tyre or wheel repaired, orrenew it, as soon as possible

From inside the boot area, use the

wheelbrace to lower the spare wheel

Remove the wheel trim (where fitted)

then slacken each wheel bolt by a half

turn

Locate the jack below the reinforcedjacking point and on firm ground (don’tjack the car at any other point on the sill)

Turn the jack handle clockwise until thewheel is raised clear of the ground,remove the bolts and lift the wheel clear

Position the spare wheel and fit the

bolts Tighten moderately with the

wheel-brace, then lower the car to the ground

Tighten the wheel bolts in the sequenceshown, fit the wheel trim, and secure thepunctured wheel in the spare wheelcradle

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

6 5

4

When all else fails, you may find yourself

having to get a tow home – or of course you

may be helping somebody else Long-distance

recovery should only be done by a garage or

breakdown service For shorter distances, DIY

towing using another car is easy enough, but

observe the following points:

M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not

expensive The vehicle being towed must

display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window

M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’

position when the vehicle is being towed, so

that the steering lock is released, and that the

direction indicator and brake lights will work

M Only attach the tow-rope to the towingeyes provided

M Before being towed, release the handbrakeand select neutral on the transmission

M Note that greater-than-usual pedalpressure will be required to operate thebrakes, since the vacuum servo unit is onlyoperational with the engine running

M On models with power steering, than-usual steering effort will also be required

greater-M The driver of the car being towed must keepthe tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching

M Make sure that both drivers know the routebefore setting off

M Only drive at moderate speeds and keepthe distance towed to a minimum Drivesmoothly and allow plenty of time for slowingdown at junctions

M On models with automatic transmission,special precautions apply If in doubt, do nottow, or transmission damage may result

M Do not tow BH type gearbox models with

the front wheels on the ground for longdistances, as the engine lubrication systemalso supplies pressure-fed oil to the gears anddifferential bearings Unnecessary wear mayoccur if the car is towed with the enginestopped

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or

obvious wetness under the bonnet or

underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs

investigating It can sometimes be difficult to

decide where the leak is coming from,

especially if the engine bay is very dirty

already Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown

rearwards by the passage of air under the car,

giving a false impression of where the

problem lies

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking Some fluids are distinctively coloured It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug or from the base of the oil filter

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline

deposit like this

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at theinboard ends of the driveshafts

A leak occurring at a wheel is almostcertainly brake fluid

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipeconnectors on the steering rack

There are some very simple checks which

need only take a few minutes to carry out, but

which could save you a lot of inconvenience

and expense

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill

or special tools, and the small amount of time

they take to perform could prove to be very

well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition andpressures, will not only help to stop themwearing out prematurely, but could also saveyour life

M Many breakdowns are caused by electricalproblems Battery-related faults are particularlycommon, and a quick check on a regular basiswill often prevent the majority of these

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, thefirst time you might know about it is whenyour brakes don't work properly Checkingthe level regularly will give advance warning ofthis kind of problem

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost

of repairing any engine damage will be fargreater than fixing the leak, for example

Introduction

§ TU series

Other engine similar

AEngine oil level dipstick

BEngine oil filler cap

CCoolant expansion tank

DBrake fluid reservoir

EScreen washer fluid reservoir

F Battery

Underbonnet check points

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground

4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been

switched off

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their

oil It is very important that the correct oil for

your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and

tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should

check whether you have any oil leaks Place

some clean paper under the car overnight,

and check for stains in the morning If there

are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”).

l Always maintain the level between the

upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3)

If the level is too low severe engine damage

may occur Oil seal failure may result if the

engine is overfilled by adding too much oil

If the oil is checked

immediately after driving the

vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine

components, resulting in an inaccurate

reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured

for easy identification (see “Underbonnet

check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location) Withdraw the dipstick

Using a clean rag or paper towel removeall oil from the dipstick Insert the cleandipstick into the tube as far as it will go,then withdraw it again

Note the oil level on the end of thedipstick, which should be between theupper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN")mark Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise thelevel from the lower mark to the upper mark

Oil is added through the filler cap.Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; afunnel may help to reduce spillage Addthe oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick

often Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

Warning: DO NOT attempt to

remove the expansion tank

pressure cap when the engine

is hot, as there is a very great

risk of scalding Do not leave

open containers of coolant

about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, addingcoolant should not be necessary on a regularbasis If frequent topping-up is required, it islikely there is a leak Check the radiator, allhoses and joint faces for signs of staining orwetness, and rectify as necessary

l It is important that antifreeze is used in thecooling system all year round, not just duringthe winter months Don’t top-up with wateralone, as the antifreeze will become toodiluted

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine

temperature When cold, the coolant

level should be between the “MAX” and

“MIN” marks When the engine is hot, the

level may rise slightly above the “MAX” mark

Where the expansion tank has a levelindicator inside the expansion tank, thecoolant level should be between theupper level indicator step (a) and lower step(b) On all engines, when the coolant is hot,the level may rise above the “MAX” mark orlevel indicator step

If topping-up is necessary, turn theexpansion tank cap slowly anti-clockwiseand wait until any pressure in the system

is released Once any pressure is released,unscrew it fully and lift it off Add a mixture ofwater and antifreeze through the filler neck untilthe coolant is at the correct level Refit the cap,turning it clockwise as far as it will go to secure

Brake fluid level

Warning:

l Brake fluid can harm your

eyes and damage painted

surfaces, so use extreme

caution when handling and

pouring it.

l Do not use fluid that has

been standing open for some

time, as it absorbs moisture

from the air, which can cause a

dangerous loss of braking

effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated

topping-up this is an indication of a fluid leak

somewhere in the system, which should be

investigated immediately

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be

driven until the braking system has been

checked Never take any risks where brakes

are concerned

• Make sure that your car is

on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as

the brake pads wear down, but the fluid

level must never be allowed to drop

below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks areindicated on the front of the reservoir

The fluid level must be kept between themarks at all times

clean the area around the filler cap toprevent dirt entering the hydraulicsystem

it onto the surrounding components Useonly the specified fluid; mixing differenttypes can cause damage to the system Aftertopping-up to the correct level, securely refitthe cap and wipe off any spilt fluid

4

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground

4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead

4 The engine should be turned off

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates

a leak, which should be investigatedimmediately

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The reservoir is located in the front

left-hand corner of the engine compartment,

next to the battery Wipe clean the area

around the reservoir filler neck and unscrew

the filler cap/dipstick from the reservoir

should be between the “MAX” mark andthe “MIN” mark on the reservoir or fillercap dipstick Top-up as necessary to maintainthe level between the two marks

of fluid and do not overfill the reservoir.When the level is correct, securely refitthe cap

3

Screenwash additives not only keep the

winscreen clean during foul weather, they also

prevent the washer system freezing in cold

weather - which is when you are likely to need it

most Don’t top up using plain water as the

screenwash will become too diluted, and will

freeze during cold weather On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system

-this could discolour or damage paintwork.

The screenwasher fluid is also used to

clean the tailgate rear window, and on some

models, the headlights

The washer fluid reservoir filler is located atthe front left-hand side of the enginecompartment (or right-hand side on modelswith headlight wash)

The washer reservoir itself is actually locatedunder the car on some models; release thecap and observe the level in the reservoir bylooking down the filler neck

Screen washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir, add ascreenwash additive in the quantitiesrecommended on the bottle

1

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the

vehicle battery, read the precautions given in

"Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good

condition, and that the clamp is tight

Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the

battery itself can be removed with a solution

of water and baking soda Thoroughly rinse all

cleaned areas with water Any metal parts

damaged by corrosion should be covered

with a zinc-based primer, then painted

4 Periodically (approximately every three

months), check the charge condition of the

battery as described in Chapter 5A

4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump

start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-handside of the engine compartment Theexterior of the battery should beinspected periodically for damage such as acracked case or cover

to ensure good electrical connections.You should not be able to move them.Also check each cable (B) for cracks andfrayed conductors

2

Battery corrosion can be kept to a

minimum by applying a layer of

petroleum jelly to the clamps and

terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) isevident, remove the cables from thebattery terminals, clean them with a smallwire brush, then refit them Automotive storessell a tool for cleaning the battery post

4

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good

condition, and at the correct pressure - having

a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous

Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh

braking and acceleration, or fast cornering,

will all produce more rapid tyre wear As a

general rule, the front tyres wear out faster

than the rears Interchanging the tyres from

front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in

more even wear However, if this is

completely effective, you may have the

expense of replacing all four tyres at once!

Remove any nails or stones embedded in the

tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause

deflation If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail sothat its point of penetration is marked Thenimmediately change the wheel, and have thetyre repaired by a tyre dealer

Regularly check the tyres for damage in theform of cuts or bulges, especially in thesidewalls Periodically remove the wheels,and clean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage

Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by

"kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels mayalso become dented or buckled A new wheel

is very often the only way to overcome severedamage

New tyres should be balanced when they arefitted, but it may become necessary to re-balance them as they wear, or if the balanceweights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off.Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, aswill the steering and suspension components.Wheel imbalance is normally signified byvibration, particularly at a certain speed(typically around 50 mph) If this vibration isfelt only through the steering, then it is likelythat just the front wheels need balancing If,however, the vibration is felt through thewhole car, the rear wheels could be out ofbalance Wheel balancing should be carriedout by a tyre dealer or garage

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety

bands (B), which will appear when the tread

depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm The

band positions are indicated by a triangular

mark on the tyre sidewall (A)

Alternatively, tread wear can bemonitored with a simple, inexpensive deviceknown as a tread depth indicator gauge

Check the tyre pressures regularly withthe tyres cold Do not adjust the tyrepressures immediately after the vehicle hasbeen used, or an inaccurate setting will result

3

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the

tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and

the tread will not sit correctly on the road

surface This will cause a loss of grip and

excessive wear, not to mention the danger of

sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up

Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result ofwheel misalignment Most tyre dealers andgarages can check and adjust the wheelalignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment

Note: The feathered edge of the tread which

typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Bulbs and fuses

4 Check all external lights and the horn

Refer to the appropriate Sections of

Chap-ter 12 for details if any of the circuits are

found to be inoperative

4 Visually check all accessible wiringconnectors, harnesses and retaining clips forsecurity, and for signs of chafing or damage

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or garage door and operate the lights The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or

headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced

Refer to Chapter 12 for details If both

stop-lights have failed, it is possible that the switch

has failed (see Chapter 12)

If more than one indicator light or tail lighthas failed it is likely that either a fuse hasblown or that there is a fault in the circuit(see Chapter 12) The fuses are locatedbehind a panel on the bottom of the driver’sside lower facia panel

2 To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it outand fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see Chapter 12) If the fuse blows again,

it is important that you find out why - acomplete checking procedure is given inChapter 12

3 1

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades;

if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is

smeared, renew them Wiper blades should

be renewed annually

the arm fully away from the screen until itlocks Swivel the blade through 90°,press the locking tab with your fingers andslide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end

blade as well To remove the blade, depressthe retaining tab and slide the blade out of thehooked end of the arm

Lubricants and fluids

Engine Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40, or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR, QS or Hypergrade Plus) Cooling system Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze (Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer

Coolant) Manual transmission:

BH3 transmission Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade Plus) BE1, and BE3 transmissions:

Pre-August 1987 Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade Plus) August 1987 onward Gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W/80 (Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80W Gear oil)

MA transmission Gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W/80 (Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80W Gear oil) Automatic transmission Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

Braking system Universal brake fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid) Power steering Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

Normal use 1.9 bars 2.3 bars

Fully laden 1.9 bars 2.6 bars

165/70 SR 13 (manual transmission models) 1.7 bars 1.9 bars

165/70 SR 13 (automatic transmission models) 2.0 bars 2.1 bars

185/60 HR 14 (except CTI models) 2.0 bars 2.0 bars

185/60 HR 14 (CTI models) 2.0 bars 2.1 bars

185/55 VR 15 2.0 bars 2.0 bars

Note: Refer to the tyre pressure data sticker for the correct tyre pressures for your particular vehicle Pressures apply only to original-equipment

tyres, and may vary if other makes or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines The

higher the engine’s performance, the greater

the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as

well as optimise power and economy

Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest

technical standards, meeting and exceeding

the demands of all modern engines

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine

which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly

cause engine seizure Oil, and its special

additives, forms a molecular barrier between

moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat

build-up

• Cooling hot spots

Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based

coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion

chamber and pistons, where temperatures

may exceed 1000°C The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine coolingsystem Heat in the oil is also lost by air flowover the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler

• Cleaning the inner engine

Oil washes away combustion by-products(mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders,transporting them to the oil filter, and holdingthe smallest particles in suspension until theyare flushed out by an oil change Duckhamsoils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory,and on the road

Engine oil types

Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils,

generally suited to older engines and cars not

used in harsh conditions Duckhams

Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well

suited for use in most popular family cars

Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are

specially formulated for Diesel engines,including turbocharged models and 4x4s

Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in

lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at

a fairly high price One such is Duckhams QS,

for use in ultra-high performance engines

Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance

engine protection, but at less cost than full

synthetic oils Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice

for hot hatches and hard-driven cars

For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils

on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain.

To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal 26

Air conditioning system check 20

Automatic transmission fluid level check 5

Automatic transmission fluid renewal 23

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 9

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check 18

Brake fluid renewal 34

Clutch pedal stroke adjustment 10

Coolant renewal 33

Driveshaft bellows check 24

Engine oil and filter renewal 3

Exhaust system check 17

Emissions control systems check 29

Front brake pad check 4

Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models 32

Handbrake check and adjustment 15

Headlight beam alignment check 19

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment 28

Ignition system check 27

Intensive maintenance 2

Introduction 1

Lock and hinge check and lubrication 12

Manual transmission oil level check 21

Manual transmission oil renewal 22

Rear brake pad condition check - models with rear disc brakes 14

Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes 13

Road test 30

Seat belt check 11

Spark plug renewal 7

Steering and suspension check 25

Throttle and choke cable lubrication and adjustment 8

Timing belt renewal 31

Underbody and fuel/brake line check 16

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition 6

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY

or professional

Degrees of difficulty

5 4

3 2

1

Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of “Weekly checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

XV and XW series engines (including filter) 4.5 litres

XY and XU series engines (including filter) 5.0 litres

TU series engines (including filter) 3.5 litres

Cooling system

XV8, XW7, TU9 and TU3 series engines 5.8 litres

XY7 and XY8 engines 6.0 litres

XU engines (except automatic transmission models) 6.6 litres

XU engines (automatic transmission models) 6.7 litres

TU1 series engine (except Van models) 7.0 litres

TU1 series engine (Van models) 5.8 litres

Manual transmission 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission

From dry 6.2 litres

Drain and refill 2.4 litres

Fuel tank 50 litres

Engine

Oil filter:

XV, XW and XY series engines Champion C204

XU and TU series engines Champion F104

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

Protection down to - 15ºC (5ºF) 27% antifreeze

Protection down to - 35ºC (- 31ºF) 50% antifreeze

Note: Refer to Chapter 3 for further details.

Fuel system

Air cleaner filter element:

Pre-1988 carburettor engines Champion W138

1988 onward carburettor engines Champion U401

Fuel injection engines Champion W175

Fuel filter Champion L205

Idle speed and mixture CO content Refer to Chapter 4A, 4B and 4C Specifications

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

XV8, XW7 and XY7 engines Champion RS9YCC or S281YC*

XY8 and XU5J engines Champion S7YCC or S279YC*

XU51C engines (up to 1988) Champion S9YCC or S281YC*

XU51C engines (from 1988) Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX*

XU5JA engines (up to 1988) Champion S7YCC or S279YC*

XU5JA (from 1988), XU5JA/K, XU9JA, XU9JA/K, XU9JA/Z and

XU9JA/L engines Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX*

TU9 series, TU1 series, TU3 and TU3A engines Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX*

TU3S engines Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX*

*Peugeot recommendation

Spark plug electrode gap** 0.7 to 0.8 mm

**The spark plug electrode gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Front brake pad minimum lining thickness 2.0 mm

Rear brake shoe minimum lining thickness 1.0 mm

Rear brake pad minimum lining thickness 2.0 mm

Tyre pressures See “Weekly checks”

Spark plugs 17 13

Manual transmission drain/filler plugs

BE1 and BE3 transmissions:

Main gearbox drain plug 10 7

Final drive drain plug 30 22

MA transmission 25 19

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

m˛ Refer to “Weekly checks”

Every 36 000 miles (58 000 km) or

3 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

m˛ Renew the timing belt (Section 31)

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 72 000

miles (120 000 km), It is strongly recommended that the timing belt renewal interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie mainly short journeys or a lot

of stop-start driving The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

Every 6000 miles (9000 km) or

6 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

m Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)*

m˛ Check the condition of the front brake pads, and renew if

necessary (Section 4)

m˛ Check the automatic transmission fluid level and top-up if

necessary (Section 5)

Note: Renewal of the engine oil filter at this service interval is only

necessary on models fitted with the XU9J1/L engine and automatic

transmission On all other models, oil filter renewal is recommended

at every second oil change (ie 12 000 miles/12 months).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or

4 years - whichever comes sooner

m˛ Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 32)

Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km) or

12 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

m˛ Check all underbonnet components and hoses for fluid leaks

(Section 6)

m˛ Renew the spark plugs (Section 7)

m˛ Check, adjust and lubricate the throttle and choke cables

(Section 8)

m˛ Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if

necessary (Section 9)

m˛ Check the clutch pedal stroke adjustment (Section 10)

m˛ Check the condition of the seat belts (Section 11)

m˛ Lubricate the locks and hinges (Section 12)

m˛ Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and renew if

necessary - rear drum brake models (Section 13)

m˛ Check the condition of the rear brake pads and renew if

necessary - rear disc brake models (Section 14)

m˛ Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 15)

m˛ Inspect the underbody and the brake hydraulic pipes and hoses

(Section 16)

m˛ Check the condition of the fuel lines (Section 16)

m˛ Check the condition and security of the exhaust system (Section 17)

m˛ Check the condition of the exterior trim and paintwork (Section 18)

m˛ Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 19)

m˛ Check the operation of the air conditioning system (Section 20)

Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

m˛ Renew the timing belt (Section 31)

Note: This is the interval recommended by Peugeot, but we

recommend that the belt is changed more frequently, at 36 000 miles (60 000 km) - see above

Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km) or

2 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

m˛ Check the manual transmission oil level, and top-up if necessary(Section 21)

m˛ Renew the manual transmission oil (pre-1988 BE1 transmissionsonly) (Section 22)

m˛ Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 23)

m˛ Check the condition of the driveshaft bellows (Section 24)

m˛ Check the steering and suspension components for conditionand security (Section 25)

m˛ Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 26)

m˛ Check the ignition system (Section 27)

m˛ Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment (Section 28)

m˛ Check the condition of the emissions control system hoses andcomponents (Section 29)

m˛ Carry out a road test (Section 30)

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

m˛ Renew the coolant (Section 33)

m˛ Renew the brake fluid (Section 34)

The maintenance intervals in this manual

are provided with the assumption that you,

not the dealer, will be carrying out the work

These are the average maintenance intervals

recommended for vehicles driven daily under

normal conditions Obviously some variation

of these intervals may be expected depending

on territory of use, and conditionsencountered If you wish to keep your vehicle

in peak condition at all times, you may wish toperform some of these procedures moreoften We encourage frequent maintenancebecause it enhances the efficiency,performance and resale value of your vehicle

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used

to tow a trailer, driven frequently at slowspeeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys,more frequent maintenance intervals arerecommended

Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc GT model (XY8 series engine)

1 Right-hand front engine mounting

9 Brake master cylinder

10 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap

11 Vehicle identification plate

12 Choke cable

13 Heater hose

14 Oil filler cap/crankcase ventilation filter

15 Windscreen wiper arm

16 Hydraulic brake lines

17 Cooling fan motor resistor

18 Front suspension shock absorber top mounting nut

19 Ignition coil cover

Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc XS model (TU series engine)

1 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap

2 Brake master cylinder

3 Brake vacuum servo unit

4 Servo vacuum hose

5 Cooling system bleed screw

6 Air cleaner cover

17 Engine oil filler cap

18 Exhaust manifold hot air shroud

Front underside view of a 1360 cc GT model

1 Bottom hose

2 Reverse lamp switch

3 Engine/transmission oil drain plug

13 Exhaust front pipe

14 Fuel feed and return pipes

15 Hydraulic brake lines

16 Subframe

17 Driveshaft

18 Front towing eye

Rear underside view of a 1360 cc GT model

1 Exhaust front pipe

2 Handbrake cables

3 Heatshield

4 Rear suspension cross-tube

5 Brake hydraulic flexible hose

6 Rear shock absorber

7 Trailing arm

8 Side-member

9 Exhaust rubber mounting

10 Exhaust rear silencer

11 Spare wheel

12 Rear towing eye

13 Torsion bars

14 Fuel tank

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home

mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety,

economy, long life and peak performance

This Chapter contains a master

maintenance schedule, followed by Sections

dealing specifically with each task in the

schedule Visual checks, adjustments,

component renewal and other helpful items

are included Refer to the accompanying

illustrations of the engine compartment and

the underside of the vehicle for the locations

of the various components

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with

the mileage/time maintenance schedule and

the following Sections will provide a planned

maintenance programme, which should result

in a long and reliable service life This is a

comprehensive plan, so maintaining some

items but not others at the specified service

intervals will not produce the same results

As you service your vehicle, you will

discover that many of the procedures can

-and should - be grouped together, because of

the particular procedure being performed, or

because of the close proximity of two

otherwise-unrelated components to one

another For example, if the vehicle is raised

for any reason, the exhaust should be

inspected at the same time as the suspension

and steering components

The first step of this maintenance

programme is to prepare yourself before the

actual work begins Read through all theSections relevant to the work to be carriedout, then make a list and gather together allthe parts and tools required If a problem isencountered, seek advice from a partsspecialist or a dealer service department

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followedclosely, and frequent checks are made of fluidlevels and high-wear items, as suggestedthroughout this manual, the engine will bekept in relatively good running condition, andthe need for additional work will be minimised

2 It is possible that there will be some times

when the engine is running poorly due to thelack of regular maintenance This is even morelikely if a used vehicle, which has not receivedregular and frequent maintenance checks, ispurchased In such cases, additional workmay need to be carried out, outside of theregular maintenance intervals

3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression

test (refer to Chapter 2A, B or C) will providevaluable information regarding the overallperformance of the main internal components

Such a test can be used as a basis to decide

on the extent of the work to be carried out If,for example, a compression test indicatesserious internal engine wear, conventionalmaintenance as described in this Chapter willnot greatly improve the performance of the

engine, and may prove a waste of time andmoney, unless extensive overhaul work(Chapter 2D) is carried out first

4 The following series of operations are those

often required to improve the performance of

a generally poor-running engine:

g) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 32).

h) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 6).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully

effective, carry out the following operations:

d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm (Section 27).

e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 27).

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

1

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may

be required to undo the sump drain plug on

some models These wrenches can be

obtained from most motor factors or your

Peugeot dealer.

1 Frequent oil changes are the best

preventive maintenance the home mechanic

can give the engine, because ageing oil

becomes diluted and contaminated, which

leads to premature engine wear

2 Make sure that you have all the necessary

tools before you begin this procedure You

should also have plenty of rags or

newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills

The oil should preferably be changed when

the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal

operating temperature, just after a run; warm

oil and sludge will flow out more easily Take

care, however, not to touch the exhaust or

any other hot parts of the engine when

working under the vehicle To avoid any

possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself

from possible skin irritants and other harmfulcontaminants in used engine oils, it isadvisable to wear gloves when carrying outthis work Access to the underside of thevehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can

be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or

supported by axle stands (see “Jacking and

vehicle support”) Whichever method is

chosen, make sure that the vehicle remainslevel, or if it is at an angle, that the drain point

is at the lowest point

3 Position the draining container under the

drain plug, and unscrew the plug On somemodels, a square-section wrench may be

needed to slacken the plug (see illustration).

If possible, try to keep the plug pressed intothe sump while unscrewing it by hand the last

couple of turns (see Haynes Hint).

3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug with a

square section wrench

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

Keep the drain plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream

of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

4 Allow the oil to drain into the container, and

check the condition of the plug’s sealing

washer; renew it if worn or damaged

5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain,

noting that it may be necessary to reposition

the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle;

when the oil has completely drained, wipe

clean the drain plug and its threads in the

sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely

6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the

container into position under the oil filter,

which is located on the front side of the

cylinder block On XV, XW and XY series

engines, place some rag around the filter

otherwise the oil that runs out as the filter is

unscrewed will make a mess all over the front

of the engine

7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary,

slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by

hand the rest of the way (see illustration).

Empty the oil in the old filter into the

container

8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and

sludge from the filter sealing area on the

engine Check the old filter to make sure that

the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the

engine If it has, carefully remove it

9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to

the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it

into position on the engine Tighten the filter

firmly by hand only - do not use any tools.

10 Remove the old oil and all tools from

under the car, then lower the car to the

ground (if applicable)

11 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil

filler cap from the rocker/cylinder head cover

or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable) Fill

the engine, using the correct grade and type

of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids, and

capacities”) An oil can spout or funnel may

help to reduce spillage Pour in half the

specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few

minutes for the oil to fall to the sump

Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time

until the level is up to the lower mark on the

dipstick Adding approximately 1.5 litres will

bring the level up to the upper mark on the

dipstick Refit the filler cap

12 Start the engine and run it for a few

minutes; check for leaks around the oil filterseal and the sump drain plug Note that theremay be a delay of a few seconds before the oilpressure warning light goes out when theengine is first started, as the oil circulatesthrough the engine oil galleries and the new oilfilter (if fitted) before the pressure builds up

13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few

minutes for the oil to settle in the sump oncemore With the new oil circulated and the filtercompletely full, recheck the level on thedipstick, and add more oil as necessary

14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with

reference to “General repair procedures” in

the preliminary Sections of this manual

4 Front brake pad check

1

1 Jack up the front of the vehicle, and

support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and

vehicle support”).

2 For better access to the brake calipers,

remove the roadwheels

3 If any of the pads friction material is worn to

the specified thickness or less, all four pads

must be renewed as a set.

4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads

should be removed and cleaned Theoperation of the caliper can then also bechecked, and the condition of the brake discitself can be fully examined on both sides.Refer to Chapter 9 for further information

5 Automatic transmission fluid

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to

warm the transmission up to normal operatingtemperature, then park the vehicle on levelground The fluid level is checked using thedipstick located at the front of the enginecompartment, directly in front of the engine

(see illustration) The dipstick top is

brightly-coloured for easy identification

2 With the engine idling and the selector lever

in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw thedipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluidfrom its end with a clean rag or paper towel.Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube asfar as it will go, then withdraw it once more.Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick;

it should be between the upper and lower

marks (see illustration).

3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required

quantity of the specified fluid to the transmissionvia the dipstick tube Use a funnel with a fine-mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensurethat no foreign matter enters the transmission

Note: Never overfill the transmission so that the

fluid level is above the upper mark.

4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short

run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheckthe level again, topping-up if necessary

5 Always maintain the level between the two

dipstick marks If the level is allowed to fallbelow the lower mark, fluid starvation mayresult, which could lead to severetransmission damage

6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that

there is a leak, which should be found andcorrected before it becomes serious

3.7 Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter 5.1 Withdrawing the automatic transmission fluid dipstick

6 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition 1

Warning: Renewal of any air

conditioning hoses (where

fitted) must be left to a dealer

service department or air

conditioning specialist who has the

equipment to depressurise the system

safely Never remove air conditioning

components or hoses until the system has

been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine

compartment can cause the deterioration of

the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine,

accessory and emission systems operation

Periodic inspection should be made for cracks,

loose clamps, material hardening and leaks

2 Carefully check the large top and bottom

radiator hoses, along with the other

smaller-diameter cooling system hoses and metal

pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes

which run from the engine to the bulkhead

Inspect each hose along its entire length,

replacing any that are cracked, swollen or

shows signs of deterioration Cracks may

become more apparent if the hose is

squeezed (see Haynes Hint).

3 Make sure that all hose connections are

tight If the spring clamps that are used to

secure some of the hoses appear to be

slackening, they should be renewed to

prevent the possibility of leaks

4 Some other hoses are secured to their

fittings with screw type clips Where screw

type clips are used, check to be sure they

haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak

If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used,

make sure the hose has not expanded and/or

hardened where it slips over the fitting,

allowing it to leak

5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain

plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of

leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake

hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering

fluid If the vehicle is regularly parked in the

same place, close inspection of the ground

underneath will soon show any leaks; ignore

the puddle of water which will be left if the air

conditioning system is in use As soon as a

leak is detected, its source must be traced

and rectified Where oil has been leaking for

some time, it is usually necessary to use a

steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to

clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the

exact source of the leak can be identified

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,

especially those in the emissions system, to

be numbered or colour-coded, or to be

identified by coloured stripes moulded into

them Various systems require hoses with

different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance

and temperature resistance When renewinghoses, be sure the new ones are made of thesame material

7 Often the only effective way to check a

hose is to remove it completely from thevehicle If more than one hose is removed, besure to label the hoses and fittings to ensurecorrect installation

8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to

include any plastic T-fittings in the check

Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check thehose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,which could cause leakage

9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used

as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks

Hold one end of the hose to your ear, andprobe around vacuum hoses and fittings,listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic

of a vacuum leak

Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions given in “Safety first!” at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly Petrol

is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and

chafing Check especially for cracks in areaswhere the hose bends, and also just beforefittings, such as where a hose attaches to thecarburettor or fuel rail

11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by

the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on thehose, should be used for fuel line renewal

Never, under any circumstances, useunreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing

or water hose for fuel lines

12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used

on fuel lines These clamps often lose theirtension over a period of time, and can be

“sprung” during removal Replace all

spring-type clamps with screw clips whenever a hose

is replaced

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used

for fuel line between the fuel filter and theengine Check carefully to be sure the pipinghas not been bent or crimped, and that crackshave not started in the line

14 If a section of metal fuel line must be

renewed, only seamless steel piping should

be used, since copper and aluminium pipingdon’t have the strength necessary towithstand normal engine vibration

15 Check the metal brake lines where they

enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulicunit for cracks in the lines or loose fittings.Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for animmediate and thorough inspection of thebrake system

7 Spark plug renewal

2

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is

vital for the correct running and efficiency ofthe engine It is essential that the plugs fittedare appropriate for the engine (a suitable type

is specified at the beginning of this Chapter) Ifthis type is used and the engine is in goodcondition, the spark plugs should not needattention between scheduled replacementintervals Spark plug cleaning is rarelynecessary, and should not be attempted unlessspecialised equipment is available, as damagecan easily be caused to the firing ends

2 If the marks on the original-equipment spark

plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads

“1” to “4”, to correspond to the cylinder the leadserves (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end

of the engine) Pull the leads from the plugs bygripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwisethe lead connection may be fractured

3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the

spark plug recesses using a clean brush,vacuum cleaner or compressed air beforeremoving the plugs, to prevent dirt droppinginto the cylinders

4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug

spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep

socket and extension bar (see illustration).

7.4 Tools required for spark plug removal, gap adjustment and refitting

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug

-if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic

insulator may be broken off As each plug is

removed, examine it as follows

5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a

good indication of the condition of the engine

If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean

and white, with no deposits, this is indicative

of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug

transfers heat away from the electrode slowly,

a cold plug transfers heat away quickly)

6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered

with hard black-looking deposits, then this is

indicative that the mixture is too rich Should

the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that

the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture

being too rich

7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan

to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is

correct and it is likely that the engine is in

good condition

8 The spark plug electrode gap is of

considerable importance as, if it is too large or

too small, the size of the spark and its

efficiency will be seriously impaired The gap

should be set to the value given in the

Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.

9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler

blade, and then bend open, or closed, the

outer plug electrode until the correct gap is

achieved (see illustration) The centre

electrode should never be bent, as this may

crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if

nothing worse If using feeler blades, the gap

is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a

firm sliding fit

10 Special spark plug electrode gap

adjusting tools are available from most motor

accessory shops, or from some spark plug

manufacturers (see illustration).

11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that

the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and

that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are

clean (see Haynes Hint).

12 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and

tighten the plug to the specified torque using

the spark plug socket and a torque wrench

Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same

manner

13 Connect the HT leads in their correct

order, and refit any components removed for

access

8 Throttle and choke cable lubrication and adjustment 1

1 The throttle cable is connected to a

spring-loaded reel which pivots on the face ofthe cylinder head On certain models, the reelthen operates the throttle lever on thecarburettor through a plastic balljointedcontrol rod

2 Sparingly apply a few drops of light oil to

the throttle spindles, linkage pivot points and

to the cable itself Similarly lubricate theexposed ends of the choke cable (wherefitted)

3 Check that there is a small amount of

slackness in the cable so that the throttlelinkage closes fully with the accelerator pedalreleased Also check that full throttle can beobtained with the accelerator pedal fullydepressed

4 If there is any doubt about the cable

adjustment, refer to the relevant Parts ofChapter 4 for the full adjustment procedure

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

1 Depending on specification, either one or

two auxiliary drivebelts are fitted Where twobelts are fitted, it will obviously be necessary

to remove the outer belt in order to renew theinner belt

Checking the auxiliary drivebelt condition

2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front

of the car and support it on axle stands

Remove the right-hand front roadwheel

3 From underneath the front of the car, prise

out the retaining clips, and remove the plasticcover from the wing valance where necessary,

to gain access to the crankshaftsprocket/pulley bolt

4 Using a suitable socket and extension bar

fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt,rotate the crankshaft so that the entire length

of the drivebelt(s) can be examined Examinethe drivebelt(s) for cracks, splitting, fraying or

damage Check also for signs of glazing (shinypatches) and for separation of the belt plies.Renew the belt if worn or damaged

5 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory,

check the drivebelt tension as described below

Auxiliary drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

6 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3

7 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

8 Slacken both the alternator upper and lower

mounting nuts/bolts (as applicable)

9 Push the alternator toward the engine until

the belt is slack then slip the drivebelt fromthe pulleys Where an adjuster bolt is fitted,back off the adjuster to relieve the tension in

the drivebelt, then slip off the belt (see illustration).

Refitting

10 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used Fit the belt aroundthe pulleys, and take up the slack in the belt

9.9 Slackening the alternator adjuster bolt

to release the auxiliary drivebelt

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross- threading them To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head

by moving the alternator by hand, or

tightening the adjuster bolt

11 Tension the drivebelt as described in the

following paragraphs

Tensioning

12 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3

13 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will

ensure that it has a long life A belt which is

too slack will slip and perhaps squeal

Beware, however, of overtightening, as this

can cause wear in the alternator bearings

14 The belt should be tensioned so that,

under firm thumb pressure, there is

approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at

the mid-point between the pulleys on the

longest belt run

15 To adjust, with the upper mounting

nut/bolt just holding the alternator firm, and

the lower mounting nut/bolt loosened, lever

the alternator away from the engine, or turn

the adjuster bolt until the correct tension is

achieved Rotate the crankshaft a couple of

times, recheck the tension, then securely

tighten both the alternator mounting

nuts/bolts Where applicable, also tighten the

bolt securing the adjuster strap to its

mounting bracket

16 Reconnect the battery negative lead.

17 Refit the plastic cover to the wing valance.

Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to

the ground

10 Clutch pedal stroke

1 The clutch pedal stroke adjustment is

checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel

Before doing this, settle the cable by

depressing and releasing it a few times

2 Ensure that there are no obstructions

beneath the clutch pedal then measure the

distance from the centre of the clutch pedal

pad to the base of the steering wheel with the

pedal in the at-rest position Depress the

clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the

distance from the centre of the clutch pedal

pad to the base of the steering wheel (see

illustration).

3 Subtract the first measurement from the

second to obtain the clutch pedal travel If this

is not with the range given in the

Specifications at the start of this Chapter,

adjust the clutch as follows

4 On models fitted with the BH3

transmission, loosen the locknut and turn theadjuster on the transmission intermediatelever pushrod as necessary On all othermodels, slacken the locknut and turn theadjuster nut on the end of the cable

5 Check the pedal stroke again and make

further adjustments as necessary When all iscorrect, tighten the relevant locknut

11 Seat belt check

1

Check the seat belts for satisfactoryoperation and condition Inspect the webbingfor fraying and cuts Check that they retractsmoothly and without binding into their reels

Check the seat belt mountings, ensuringthat all the bolts are securely tightened

12 Lock and hinge check and

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate

close securely Check that the bonnet safetycatch operates correctly Check the operation

of the door check straps

2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps,

the striker plates and the bonnet catchsparingly with a little oil or grease

3 If any of the doors, bonnet or tailgate/boot

lid do not close effectively or appear not to beflush with the surrounding panels, carry outthe relevant adjustment procedures contained

in Chapter 11

13 Rear brake shoe check

-models with rear drum brakes 3

Remove the rear brake drums, and check thebrake shoes for signs of wear or contamination

At the same time, also inspect the wheelcylinders for signs of leakage, and the brakedrum for signs of wear Refer to the relevantSections of Chapter 9 for further information

14 Rear brake pad condition check - models with rear disc

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the

rear of the vehicle and support it on axle

stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

Remove the rear roadwheels

2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction

material remaining on each brake pad can be

measured through the top of the caliper body

If any pad’s friction material is worn to thespecified thickness or less, all four pads must

be renewed as a set

3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads

should be removed and cleaned This willpermit the operation of the caliper to bechecked, and the condition of the brake discitself to be fully examined on both sides Refer

to Chapter 9 for further information

15 Handbrake check and

Refer to Chapter 9

16 Underbody and fuel/brake

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on

axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle

support”), or over an inspection pit,

thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheelarches for signs of damage and corrosion Inparticular, examine the bottom of the sidesills, and any concealed areas where mud cancollect Where corrosion and rust is evident,press and tap firmly on the panel with ascrewdriver, and check for any seriouscorrosion which would necessitate repairs Ifthe panel is not seriously corroded, cleanaway the rust, and apply a new coating ofunderseal Refer to Chapter 11 for moredetails of body repairs

2 At the same time, inspect the treated lower

body panels for stone damage and generalcondition

3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the

underbody for damage, rust, corrosion andleakage Also make sure that they arecorrectly supported in their clips Whereapplicable, check the PVC coating on thelines for damage

4 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the

vicinity of the calipers, where they aresubjected to most movement Bend thembetween the fingers (but do not actually bendthem double, or the casing may be damaged)and check that this does not revealpreviously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits

17 Exhaust system check

1

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours

after the vehicle has been driven), check thecomplete exhaust system, from its startingpoint at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, whereunrestricted access is available; if a hoist is notavailable, raise and support the vehicle on axle

stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

10.2 To check the clutch pedal stroke,

measure the clutch pedal travel as

described in the text

2 Check the pipes and connections for

evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or

damage Make sure that all brackets and

rubber mountings are in good condition, and

tight; if any of the mountings are to be

renewed, ensure that the replacements are of

the correct type Leakage at any of the joints

or in other parts of the system will usually

show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity

of the leak

3 At the same time, inspect the underside of

the body for holes, corrosion, open seams,

etc which may allow exhaust gases to enter

the passenger compartment Seal all body

openings with silicone or body putty

4 Rattles and other noises can often be

traced to the exhaust system, especially the

rubber mountings Try to move the system,

silencer(s) and catalytic converter If any

components can touch the body or

suspension parts, secure the exhaust system

with new mountings

18 Bodywork, paint and exterior

1 The best time to carry out this check is after

the car has been washed so that any surface

blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and

not hidden by a film of dirt

2 Starting at one front corner check the

paintwork all around the car, looking for minor

scratches or more serious dents Check all

the trim and make sure that it is securely

attached over its entire length

3 Check the security of all door locks, door

mirrors, badges, bumpers, radiator grille and

wheel trim Anything found loose, or in need

of further attention should be done with

reference to the relevant Chapters of this

manual

4 Rectify any problems noticed with the

paintwork or body panels as described in

Chapter 11

19 Headlight beam alignment

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam

is only possible using optical beam-settingsetting equipment, and this work shouldtherefore be carried out by a Peugeot dealer

or service station with the necessary facilities

Basic adjustments can be carried out in anemergency, and further details are given inChapter 12

20 Air conditioning system

or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

1 The following maintenance checks should

be performed on a regular basis, to ensurethat the system continues to operate at peakefficiency:

a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it.

b) Check the system hoses Look for cracks, bubbles, hard spots and deterioration.

Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).

c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves, insects and other debris Use a “fin

comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping from this while the system is in operation,

to the extent that quite a large puddle can

be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for

about 30 minutes at least once a month,particularly during the winter Long termnon-use can cause hardening, andsubsequent failure, of the seals

3 Because of the complexity of the air

conditioning system and the specialequipment necessary to service it, in-depthrepairs are not included in this manual, apartfrom those procedures covered in Chapter 3

4 The most common cause of poor cooling is

simply a low system refrigerant charge If anoticeable drop in cool air output occurs, thefollowing quick check will help you determine

if the refrigerant level is low

5 Warm the engine up to normal operating

temperature

6 Place the air conditioning temperature

selector at the coldest setting, and put theblower at the highest setting Open the doors

- to make sure the air conditioning systemdoesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools thepassenger compartment

7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch

will make an audible click, and the centre ofthe clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outletpipes at the compressor One side should becold, and one hot If there’s no perceptibledifference between the two pipes, there’ssomething wrong with the compressor or thesystem It might be a low charge - it might besomething else Take the vehicle to a dealerservice department or an automotive airconditioning specialist

21 Manual transmission oil level

Note: The following procedure is only

applicable to models produced after

approximately October 1986 There is no

provision on the transmission for fluid level

checking on earlier transmissions (see Chapter

7A) Suitable square-section wrench may be

required to undo the transmission filler/level

plug on some models These wrenches can be

obtained from most motor factors or your

Peugeot dealer.

1 Park the car on a level surface The oil level

must be checked before the car is driven, or

at least 5 minutes after the engine has beenswitched off If the oil is checked immediatelyafter driving the car, some of the oil willremain distributed around the transmissioncomponents, resulting in an inaccurate levelreading

2 Prise out the retaining clips and remove the

access cover from the left-hand wheelarchliner

3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level

plug, which is situated on the left-hand end of

the transmission (see illustration) Unscrew

the plug and clean it; discard the sealingwasher

1

21.3 Using a square section wrench to unscrew the transmission filler/level plug (MA transmission shown)Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of

the filler/level hole A certain amount of oil will

have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and

will trickle out when it is removed; this does

not necessarily indicate that the level is

correct To ensure that a true level is

established, wait until the initial trickle has

stopped, then add oil as necessary until a

trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see

illustration) The level will be correct when

the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of

the specified type (refer to “Lubricants, fluids

and capacities”).

5 Filling the transmission with oil is an

extremely awkward operation; above all, allow

plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly

before checking it If a large amount is added

to the transmission, and a large amount flows

out on checking the level, refit the filler/level

plug and take the vehicle on a short journey

so that the new oil is distributed fully around

the transmission components, then recheck

the level when it has settled again

6 If the transmission has been overfilled so

that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level

plug is removed, check that the car is

completely level (front-to-rear and

side-to-side), and allow the surplus to drain off into a

suitable container

7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing

washer to the filler/level plug Refit the plug,

tightening it to the specified torque wrench

setting Wash off any spilt oil then refit the

access cover securing it in position with the

retaining clips

22 Manual transmission oil

This service requirement is only applicable

to pre-1988 BE1 transmissions Refer to the

procedures contained in Chapter 7A

23 Automatic transmission fluid

1 Take the vehicle on a short run, to warm the

transmission up to normal operatingtemperature

2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off

the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly

For improved access, jack up the front of thecar and support it securely on axle stands

Note that, when refilling and checking the fluidlevel, the car must be lowered to the ground,and level, to ensure accuracy

3 Remove the dipstick, then position a

suitable container under the transmission Thetransmission has two drain plugs: one on thesump, and another on the bottom of the

differential housing (see illustration).

Warning: If the fluid is hot, take precautions against scalding.

4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the

fluid to drain completely into the container

Clean the drain plugs, being especially careful

to wipe any metallic particles off the magneticinsert Discard the original sealing washers;

these should be renewed whenever they aredisturbed

5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean

the drain plug threads and those of thetransmission casing Fit a new sealing washer

to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to thetransmission, tightening each securely If thecar was raised for the draining operation, nowlower it to the ground Make sure that the car

is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side)

6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward

operation, adding the specified type of fluid tothe transmission a little at a time via thedipstick tube Use a funnel with a fine-meshgauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that noforeign matter enters the transmission Allowplenty of time for the fluid level to settleproperly

7 Once the level is up to the “MAX” mark on

the dipstick, refit the dipstick Start theengine, and allow it to idle for a few minutes.Switch the engine off, then recheck the level,topping-up if necessary Take the car on ashort run to fully distribute the new fluidaround the transmission, then recheck thefluid level as described in Section 5

24 Driveshaft bellows check

1

With the vehicle raised and securely

supported on stands (see “Jacking and

vehicle support”), turn the steering onto full

lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel.Inspect the condition of the outer constantvelocity (CV) joint rubber bellows, squeezing

the bellows to open out the folds (see illustration) Check for signs of cracking,

splits or deterioration of the rubber, whichmay allow the grease to escape, and lead towater and grit entry into the joint Also checkthe security and condition of the retainingclips Repeat these checks on the inner CVjoints If any damage or deterioration is found,the bellows should be renewed as described

in Chapter 8

At the same time, check the generalcondition of the CV joints themselves by firstholding the driveshaft and attempting torotate the wheel Repeat this check by holding

21.4 Topping-up the transmission oil level

23.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain plugs (arrowed) Transmission is refilled via the

dipstick tube (1)

24.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft

bellows (arrowed)

the inner joint and attempting to rotate the

driveshaft Any appreciable movement

indicates wear in the joints, wear in the

driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft

1 Apply the handbrake then jack up the front

of the vehicle and support it on axle stands

(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and

the steering gear bellows for splits, chafing or

deterioration Any wear of these components

will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt

and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration

of the balljoints or steering gear

3 Check the power steering fluid hoses

(where applicable) for chafing or deterioration,

and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks

Also check for signs of fluid leakage under

pressure from the steering gear rubber

bellows, which would indicate failed fluid

seals within the steering gear

4 Check for signs of fluid leakage around the

suspension strut body, or from the rubber

boot around the piston rod (where fitted)

Should any fluid be noticed, the shock

absorber is defective internally, and renewal is

necessary

5 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and

6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it (see illustration) Very slight free play may be felt,

but if the movement is appreciable, furtherinvestigation is necessary to determine thesource Continue rocking the wheel while anassistant depresses the footbrake If themovement is now eliminated or significantlyreduced, it is likely that the wheel bearings are

at fault If the free play is still evident with thefootbrake depressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings

6 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3

o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before

Any movement felt now may again be caused

by wear in the wheel bearings or the steeringtrack rod end balljoints If the outer track rodend is worn, the visual movement will beobvious If the inner joint is suspect, it can befelt by placing a hand over the rack-and-pinionrubber bellows, and gripping the track rod Ifthe wheel is now rocked, movement will be felt

at the inner joint if wear has taken place

7 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check

for wear in the suspension mounting bushes

by levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point Somemovement is to be expected as the mountingsare made of rubber, but excessive wearshould be obvious Also check the condition

of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits,cracks or contamination of the rubber

8 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,

have an assistant turn the steering wheelback-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn eachway There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel and

roadwheels If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previouslydescribed, but in addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and alsocheck the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself

9 The efficiency of the shock absorber may

be checked by bouncing the car at each frontcorner Generally speaking, the body willreturn to its normal position and stop afterbeing depressed If it rises and returns on arebound, the shock absorber is probablysuspect Examine also the shock absorberupper and lower mountings for any signs ofwear or fluid leakage

Rear suspension check

10 Chock the front wheels, then raise the rear

of the vehicle and support it on axle stands

(see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

11 Check the rear hub bearings for wear,

using the method described for the front hubbearings (paragraph 4)

12 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,

check for wear in the suspension mountingbushes by levering between the relevantsuspension component and its attachmentpoint Some movement is to be expected asthe mountings are made of rubber, butexcessive wear should be obvious Check thecondition of the shock absorbers asdescribed previously

26 Air cleaner filter element

XV, XW and XY series engines

1 Unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner casing end-face (see illustration).

2 Withdraw the end cover with element (see illustration).

3 Discard the element and wipe the casing

interior clean

4 Fit the new element and the cover, tighten

the wing nut

XU and TU series engines

4 Disconnect the air duct from the end of the

air cleaner

5 Unscrew the nuts and remove the end (or top) cover (see illustrations) On some types

1

25.5 Check for wear in the hub bearings

by grasping the wheel and trying to rock it

26.1 On XV, XW and XY series engines,

unscrew the wing nut on the air cleaner

of air cleaner, the end (or top) cover is

retained by a number of spring clips

6 Extract the element (see illustration).

7 Discard the element and wipe the casing

interior clean

8 Insert the new element then refit the end

cover and air duct Ensure that the cover is

correctly seated, to prevent air leaks, before

fastening with the nuts or the clips

27 Ignition system check

1

Warning: Voltages produced by

an electronic ignition system are

considerably higher than those

produced by conventional

ignition systems Extreme care must be

taken when working on the system with

the ignition switched on Persons with

surgically-implanted cardiac pacemaker

devices should keep well clear of the

ignition circuits, components and test

equipment.

1 The ignition system components should be

checked for damage or deterioration as

described under the relevant sub-heading

Carburettor models

General component check

2 The spark plug (HT) leads should be

checked whenever new spark plugs are fitted

3 Ensure that the leads are numbered before

removing them, to avoid confusion when

refitting (see Section 27) Pull the leads from

the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the

lead, otherwise the lead connection may be

fractured

4 Check inside the end fitting for signs of

corrosion, which will look like a white crusty

powder Push the end fitting back onto the

spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the

plug If not, remove the lead again and use

pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector

inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the

end of the spark plug

5 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of

the lead to remove any built-up dirt and

grease Once the lead is clean, check for

burns, cracks and other damage Do not bend

the lead excessively, nor pull the leadlengthways - the conductor inside mightbreak

6 Disconnect the other end of the lead from

the distributor cap Again, pull only on the endfitting Check for corrosion and a tight fit in thesame manner as the spark plug end If anohmmeter is available, check the resistance ofthe lead by connecting the meter between thespark plug end of the lead and the segmentinside the distributor cap Refit the leadsecurely on completion

7 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in

the same way

8 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required,

purchase a set for your specific car andengine

9 Release the clips or unscrew its retaining

screws and remove the distributor cap Wipe

it clean, and carefully inspect it inside and outfor signs of cracks, black carbon tracks(tracking) and worn, burned or loose contacts;

check that the cap’s carbon brush is unworn,free to move against spring pressure, andmaking good contact with the rotor arm Alsoinspect the cap seal for signs of wear ordamage, and renew if necessary Remove therotor arm from the distributor shaft and

inspect the rotor arm (see illustration) It is

common practice to renew the cap and rotorarm whenever new spark plug (HT) leads arefitted When fitting a new cap, remove theleads from the old cap one at a time, and fitthem to the new cap in the exact samelocation - do not simultaneously remove allthe leads from the old cap, or firing orderconfusion may occur When refitting, ensure

that the arm is securely pressed onto theshaft, and tighten the cap retaining screwssecurely

10 Even with the ignition system in first-class

condition, some engines may still occasionallyexperience poor starting attributable to dampignition components To disperse moisture, awater-dispersant aerosol can be veryeffective

Ignition timing - check and adjustment

11 Check the ignition timing as described in

Chapter 5B

Fuel-injected models

General component check

12 On single-point fuel injection models,

carry out the checks described above inparagraphs 3 to 8 noting that on somemodels the HT leads are removed from theignition module, not the distributor cap Onmulti-point fuel injection models, carry outthe checks described above in paragraphs 3

1 Before checking the idle speed and mixture

setting, always check the following first:

a) Check the ignition timing (Chapter 5B) b) Check that the spark plugs are in good condition and correctly gapped (Sec- tion 7).

c) Check that the throttle cable and, on carburettor models, the choke cable (where fitted) is correctly adjusted (Section 8 and Chapter 4A, 4B or 4C) d) Check that the crankcase breather hoses are secure, with no leaks or kinks (Sec- tion 29).

e) Check that the air cleaner filter element is clean (Section 26).

f) Check that the exhaust system is in good condition (Chapter 4D).

g) If the engine is running very roughly, check the compression pressures and valve clearances as described in Chapter 2A, 2B or 2C.

2 Take the car on a journey of sufficient

length to warm it up to normal operatingtemperature Proceed as described under the

relevant sub-heading Note: Adjustment

should be completed within two minutes of return, without stopping the engine If this cannot be achieved, or if the radiator electric cooling fan operates, first wait for the cooling fan to stop Clear any excess fuel from the inlet manifold by racing the engine two or three times to between 2000 and 3000 rpm, then allow it to idle again.

26.5c then lift off the top, or end cover 26.6 With the cover removed, withdraw

the filter element

27.9 Remove the rotor arm from the distributor for inspection

Carburettor models

Idle speed adjustment - single carburettor engines

3 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched

off and, where applicable, the choke ispushed fully in; if the car does not have atachometer (rev counter), connect one to theengine, following its manufacturer’sinstructions Note the idle speed, andcompare it with that specified

4 The idle speed adjusting screw is situated

in various locations according to carburettor

type (see illustrations) It may be necessary

to remove a retaining clip and plastic cover togain access to the carburettor Using asuitable flat-bladed screwdriver, turn the idlespeed screw in or out as necessary to obtainthe specified idling speed as given in the

Specifications.

5 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be

adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnectany instruments and refit all disturbedcomponents

Idle speed adjustment - twin carburettor engines

6 On twin carburettor installations, it is

necessary to balance the carburettors so thatthe airflow through both is the same beforeadjusting the idling speed To do this avacuum gauge or carburettor synchronisingtool will be required

7 Ensure that all electrical loads are switched

off and, where applicable, the choke ispushed fully in; if the car does not have atachometer (rev counter), connect one to theengine, following its manufacturer’sinstructions Note the idle speed, andcompare it with that specified

8 Remove the air cleaner assembly as

described in Chapter 4A

9 If a vacuum gauge is being used,

disconnect the vacuum pipe and connect thegauge to the vacuum pipe stub on the left-

hand carburettor (see illustrations).

1

28.4a Typical idle speed adjusting screw

location (A) on the Solex PBISA

carburettors

28.4b Idle speed adjusting screw (1) and mixture screw (2) location on the Solex 32-34 Z2 carburettors

28.4c Idle speed adjusting screw location (1) on the Weber 32 IBSH carburettors

28.4d Idle speed adjusting screw location (1) on the Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9a Adjustment points on the Solex twin carburettor installation

a Vacuum gauge pipe

b Vacuum gauge pipe

10 With the engine idling, turn the idle speed

screw on the interconnecting linkage as

necessary until the engine speed is 1000 rpm

11 Note the reading on the vacuum gage,

then transfer the gauge pipe to the vacuum

pipe stub on the right-hand carburettor If the

reading is not as previously recorded, turn the

synchronising screw on the linkage as

necessary until an identical reading is shown

on the gauge

12 Blip the throttle once or twice and check

that both vacuum readings are as previously

indicated

13 Reset the idle speed by means of the idle

speed screw to obtain the specified idling

speed

14 If a vacuum gauge is not available a

carburettor synchronising tool available at

most motor stores can be used instead

These instruments are basically airflow meters

and should show identical readings when

moved from one carburettor venturi to the

other Adjust the airflow through the

carburettor, by means of the synchronising

screw, until both carburettors show the same

reading on the tool When correct, reset the

idling speed by means of the idle speed screw

to obtain the specified speed Note that if one

of these instruments is being used, it will not

be necessary to disconnect the carburettor

vacuum pipes

15 If the idle mixture CO content is not to be

adjusted, switch off the engine, disconnect

the instruments and refit all disturbed

components

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

16 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is

set at the factory, and should require no

further adjustment If, due to a change in

engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore

wear etc) or after a major carburettor

overhaul, the mixture setting is lost, it can be

reset Note, however, that an exhaust gas

analyser (CO meter) will be required to check

the mixture, in order to set it with thenecessary standard of accuracy; if this is notavailable, the car must be taken to a Peugeotdealer for the work to be carried out

17 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,

follow its manufacturer’s instructions to checkthe exhaust gas CO level If adjustment isrequired, it is made by turning the mixtureadjustment screw as necessary As with theidle speed screw, the mixture adjusting screw

is situated in various locations according to

carburettor type (see illustrations).The screw

may also be covered with a tamperproof plug

to prevent unnecessary adjustment If so, use

a sharp instrument to hook out the plug

18 Using a suitable flat-bladed screwdriver,

turn the mixture adjustment screw (in verysmall increments) until the CO level is correct

Turning the screw in (clockwise) weakens themixture and reduces the CO level, turning it

out will richen the mixture and increase the

CO level On twin carburettor installations turnboth mixture adjustment screws by equalamounts when making the adjustments

19 When adjustments are complete,

disconnect any test equipment, and fit a newtamperproof plug to the mixture adjustmentscrew Recheck the idle speed and, ifnecessary, readjust

Single-point fuel injection models

20 Experienced home mechanics with a

considerable amount of skill and equipment(including a good-quality tachometer and agood-quality, carefully-calibrated exhaust gas

analyser) may be able to check the exhaust

CO level and the idle speed However, if these

are found to be in need of adjustment, the car

must be taken to a suitably-equipped

28.17a Typical idle mixture adjusting

screw location (B) on the

Solex PBISA carburettors

A and B Vacuum gauge pipe connections

28.17b Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the Weber IBSH carburettors

28.17c Idle mixture adjusting screw

location (2) on the Weber 36 TLC carburettors

28.9b Adjustment points on the Weber twin carburettor installation

Peugeot dealer, for diagnosis On all

single-point fuel injection models, the idle speed and

mixture CO content is controlled by the

engine management ECU and cannot be

adjusted If the idle speed and/or CO level is

incorrect, there is likely to be a fault in the

engine management system (see Chapter 4B)

Multi-point fuel injection models

Idle speed adjustment

21 Ensure that all electrical loads are

switched off If the car does not have a

tachometer (rev counter), connect one to the

engine, following its manufacturer’s

instructions Note the idle speed, and

compare it with that specified

22 If adjustment is necessary, turn the air

screw (LE2-Jetronic) or idle speed adjustment

screw (LU2-Jetronic and Motronic M1.3) in

the throttle housing to obtain the specified

idling speed (see illustrations) If, on the

LE2-Jetronic system, the correct speed cannot be

obtained by means of the air screw, check

and adjust the throttle initial position as

described in Chapter 4C, Section 10

Idle mixture CO level adjustment

Note: Adjustment of the idle mixture CO

content is only possible on the LE2-Jetronic

system On The LU2-Jetronic and Motronic

M1.3 systems it is controlled by the fuel

injection system ECU.

23 The idle mixture (exhaust gas CO level) is

set at the factory, and should require no

further adjustment If, due to a change in

engine characteristics (carbon build-up, bore

wear etc) or after a major overhaul, the

mixture setting is lost, it can be reset Note,

however, that an exhaust gas analyser (CO

meter) will be required to check the mixture, in

order to set it with the necessary standard of

accuracy; if this is not available, the car must

be taken to a Peugeot dealer for the work to

be carried out

24 If an exhaust gas analyser is available,

follow its manufacturer’s instructions to checkthe exhaust gas CO level If adjustment isrequired, prise out the tamperproof cap on theairflow sensor and use an Allen key to adjust

the mixture (see illustration) Turn the screw

in to richen the mixture and out to weaken it

25 Blip the throttle two or three times and

then recheck that the idle speed and mixture

is correct

26 When adjustments are complete,

disconnect the test equipment, and fit a newtamperproof plug to the mixture adjustmentscrew

29 Emissions control systems

1 Details of the emissions control system

components are given in Chapter 4D

2 Checking consists simply of a visual check

for obvious signs of damaged or leakinghoses and joints On engines incorporating a

breather filter in the oil filler cap, this should

be removed and cleaned, or renewed if it isparticularly contaminated

3 Detailed checking and testing of the

evaporative and/or exhaust emissionssystems (as applicable) should be entrusted

2 Make sure that all instruments read

correctly, and switch on all electricalequipment in turn to check that it functionsproperly

Steering and suspension

3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering,

suspension, handling or road “feel”

4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are

no unusual vibrations or noises

5 Check that the steering feels positive, with

no excessive “sloppiness”, or roughness, andcheck for any suspension noises whencornering, or when driving over bumps

Drivetrain

6 Check the performance of the engine,

clutch, transmission and driveshafts

7 Listen for any unusual noises from the

engine, clutch and transmission

8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly

when idling, and that there is no hesitationwhen accelerating

1

28.22a Idle speed air screw adjustment on the LE2-Jetronic fuel injection system

28.22b Idle speed adjustment screw (7) on the LU2-Jetronic and

Motronic M1.3 fuel injection systems

28.24 Mixture adjustment screw (2)

9 Check that the clutch action is smooth and

progressive, that the drive is taken up

smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not

excessive Also listen for any noises when the

clutch pedal is depressed

10 Check that all gears can be engaged

smoothly, without noise, and that the gear

lever action is not abnormally vague or

“notchy”

11 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from

the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven

slowly in a circle with the steering on full lock

Carry out this check in both directions If a

clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a

driveshaft joint, in which case, the completedriveshaft must be renewed (see Chapter 8)

Check the operation and performance of the braking system

12 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to

one side when braking, and that the wheels

do not lock prematurely when braking hard

13 Check that there is no vibration through

the steering when braking

14 Check that the handbrake operates

correctly, without excessive movement of thelever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary

on a slope

15 Test the operation of the brake servo unit

as follows With the engine off, depress thefootbrake four or five times to exhaust thevacuum Start the engine, holding the brakepedal depressed As the engine starts, thereshould be a noticeable “give” in the brakepedal as vacuum builds up Allow the engine

to run for at least two minutes, and thenswitch it off If the brake pedal is depressednow, it should be possible to detect a hissfrom the servo as the pedal is depressed.After about four or five applications, no furtherhissing should be heard, and the pedal shouldfeel considerably firmer

31 Timing belt renewal

3

Refer to Chapter 2B or 2C

Every 36 000 miles or 3 years

32 Fuel filter renewal - fuel

injection models 2

Warning: Before carrying out the

following operation, refer to the

precautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this

manual, and follow them implicitly Petrol

is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid,

and the precautions necessary when

handling it cannot be overstressed.

1 The fuel filter is situated on the engine

compartment bulkhead Before disconnecting

any of the hoses from the filter it will be

necessary to depressurise the fuel system(see Chapter 4B or 4C)

2 To renew the fuel filter first disconnect the

fuel hose, or unscrew the union bolt from thetop of the unit then place the bolt, union andwashers to one side and cover to prevent

ingress of dirt (see illustration) Unscrew the

clamp bolt, then lift the filter and unscrew thebottom union Dispose safely of the old filter;

it will be highly inflammable, and may explode

if thrown on a fire

3 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the

removal procedure; making sure that dust anddirt is prevented from entering the fuel lines

Start the engine and check the filter hoseunion connections for leaks

33 Coolant renewal

2

Cooling system draining

Warning: Wait until the engine is

cold before starting this

procedure Do not allow

antifreeze to come in contact

with your skin, or with the painted surfaces

of the vehicle Rinse off spills immediately

with plenty of water Never leave antifreeze

lying around in an open container, or in a

puddle in the driveway or on the garage

floor Children and pets are attracted by its

sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested.

1 With the engine completely cold, remove

the expansion tank filler cap Turn the capanti-clockwise until it reaches the first stop

Wait until any pressure remaining in thesystem is released, then push the cap down,turn it anti-clockwise to the second stop, andlift it off

2 Where fitted, unscrew the radiator filler cap

from the top left-hand side of the radiator

3 Position a suitable container beneath the

coolant drain outlet at the lower left-hand side

of the radiator

4 Unscrew the drain plug and allow the

coolant to drain into the container

5 To assist draining, open the cooling system

bleed screws These are located in the heatermatrix outlet hose union (to improve access, itmay be located in an extension hose) on theengine compartment bulkhead, in the inletmanifold coolant hose (XV, XW and XU seriesengines) and on the top of the thermostat

housing (TU series engines) (see illustrations).

6 When the flow of coolant stops, reposition

the container below the cylinder block drainplug On all engines except TU series, thedrain plug is located above the right-handdriveshaft, or driveshaft intermediate bearing

On TU series engines, the drain plug islocated at the front left-hand side of thecylinder block

Every 48 000 miles or 4 years

32.2 Fuel filter fuel hose and retaining

clamp locations

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

7 Remove the drain plug, and allow the

coolant to drain into the container

8 If the coolant has been drained for a reason

other than renewal, then provided it is clean

and less than two years old, it can be re-used,

though this is not recommended

9 Refit the radiator and cylinder block drain

plugs on completion of draining

Cooling system flushing

10 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or

if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted,

then in time, the cooling system may gradually

lose efficiency, as the coolant passages

become restricted due to rust, scale deposits,

and other sediment The cooling system

efficiency can be restored by flushing the

system clean

11 The radiator should be flushed

independently of the engine, to avoid

unnecessary contamination

Radiator flushing

12 To flush the radiator, first tighten the

radiator drain plug

13 Disconnect the top and bottom hoses and

any other relevant hoses from the radiator,

with reference to Chapter 3

14 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top

inlet Direct a flow of clean water through theradiator, and continue flushing until cleanwater emerges from the radiator bottomoutlet

15 If after a reasonable period, the water still

does not run clear, the radiator can be flushedwith a good proprietary cleaning agent It isimportant that their manufacturer’sinstructions are followed carefully If thecontamination is particularly bad, insert thehose in the radiator bottom outlet, andreverse-flush the radiator

Engine flushing

16 To flush the engine, first refit the cylinder

block drain plug, and tighten the coolingsystem bleed screws

17 Remove the thermostat as described in

Chapter 3, then temporarily refit thethermostat cover

18 With the top and bottom hoses

disconnected from the radiator, insert agarden hose into the radiator top hose Direct

a clean flow of water through the engine, andcontinue flushing until clean water emergesfrom the radiator bottom hose

19 On completion of flushing, refit the

thermostat and reconnect the hoses withreference to Chapter 3

Cooling system filling

20 Before attempting to fill the cooling

system, make sure that all hoses and clips are

in good condition, and that the clips are tight.Note that an antifreeze mixture must be usedall year round, to prevent corrosion of theengine components (see following sub-Section) Also check that the radiator andcylinder block drain plugs are in place andtight

21 Remove the expansion tank filler cap.

22 Open all the cooling system bleed screws

(see paragraph 4)

23 Some of the cooling system hoses are

positioned at a higher level than the top of theradiator expansion tank It is thereforenecessary to use a “header tank” whenrefilling the cooling system, to reduce thepossibility of air being trapped in the system.Although Peugeot dealers use a specialheader tank, the same effect can be achieved

by using a suitable bottle, with a seal betweenthe bottle and the expansion tank On someengines, the expansion bottle/tank can besimply released from its normal location,raised as high as possible and tied to thebonnet to form the “header” tank

24 Fit the “header tank” to the expansion

tank and slowly fill the system Where theradiator incorporates a filler cap, fill theradiator first until it is overflowing, and refit the

filler cap (see illustration) Now, on all

models, slowly fill the “header” tank Coolantwill emerge from each of the bleed screws inturn, starting with the lowest screw As soon

as coolant free from air bubbles emerges fromthe lowest screw, tighten that screw, andwatch the next bleed screw in the system.Repeat the procedure until the coolant isemerging from the highest bleed screw in thecooling system and all bleed screws aresecurely tightened

25 If a separate bottle is being used as the

“header tank”, ensure it is full (at least 0.5litres of coolant) If the vehicle expansionbottle/tank is being used as the “header” tank,

ensure it is filled to the “MAX” markings (see illustration) Start the engine, and run it at a

fast idle speed (do not exceed 2000 rpm) untilthe cooling fan cuts in, and then cuts out.During this time, squeeze the top and bottomradiator hoses to allow any trapped air to rise

1

33.5a Cooling system bleed screws may

be located in the heater hose

33.5b in the inlet manifold coolant

Slacken and retighten the bleed screws to

allow any air that has risen to escape Note:

Take great care not to scald yourself with the

hot coolant during this operation.

26 Stop the engine and allow it engine to

cool, then remove the “header tank” or refit

the expansion bottle/tank to its original

location

27 When the engine has cooled, check the

coolant level with reference to Section 3 of

this Chapter Top-up the level if necessary,

and refit the expansion tank cap

Note: If, after draining and refilling the system,

symptoms of overheating are found which did

not occur previously, then the fault is almost

certainly due to trapped air at some point in

the system, causing an air-lock and restricting

the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped

because the system was refilled too quickly In

some cases, air-locks can be released by

tapping or squeezing the various hoses If the

problem persists, stop the engine and allow it

to cool down completely, before unscrewing

the expansion tank filler cap, slackening the

bleed screws, or disconnecting hoses to bleed

out the trapped air.

Antifreeze mixture

28 The antifreeze should always be renewed

at the specified intervals This is necessary

not only to maintain the antifreeze properties,

but also to prevent corrosion which would

otherwise occur as the corrosion inhibitors

become progressively less effective

29 Always use an ethylene-glycol based

antifreeze which is suitable for use in

mixed-metal cooling systems The quantity of

antifreeze and levels of protection are

indicated in the Specifications.

30 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling

system should be completely drained,

preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for

condition and security

31 After filling with antifreeze, a label should

be attached to the expansion tank, stating the

type and concentration of antifreeze used,

and the date installed Any subsequent

topping-up should be made with the same

type and concentration of antifreeze

32 Do not use engine antifreeze in the

windscreen/tailgate washer system, as it will

cause damage to the vehicle paintwork A

screenwash additive should be added to the

washer system in the quantities stated by the

1 The procedure is similar to that for the

bleeding of the hydraulic system as described

in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluidreservoir should be emptied by siphoning,using a clean poultry baster or similar beforestarting, and allowance should be made forthe old fluid to be expelled when bleeding asection of the circuit

2 Working as described in Chapter 9, open

the first bleed screw in the sequence, andpump the brake pedal gently until nearly allthe old fluid has been emptied from themaster cylinder reservoir

3 Top-up to the “MAX” level with new fluid,

and continue pumping until only the new fluidremains in the reservoir, and new fluid can beseen emerging from the bleed screw Tightenthe screw, and top the reservoir level up to the

“MAX” level line

4 Work through all the remaining bleed

screws in the sequence until new fluid can beseen at all of them Be careful to keep themaster cylinder reservoir topped-up to abovethe “MIN” level at all times, or air may enterthe system and greatly increase the length ofthe task

5 When the operation is complete, check that

all bleed screws are securely tightened, andthat their dust caps are refitted Wash off alltraces of spilt fluid, and recheck the mastercylinder reservoir fluid level

6 Check the operation of the brakes before

taking the car on the road

33.25 Where possible, lift out the expansion bottle, suspend it from the bonnet to form a

“header” tank and fill to the “MAX” mark

Old hydraulic fluid is invariably much darker in colour than the new, making

it easy to distinguish the two.

XY7 and XY8 9.7: 1

Direction of crankshaft rotation Clockwise (viewed from right-hand side of vehicle)

Firing order 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at flywheel end of engine)

Valve clearances (engine cold)

Maximum lobe-to-body clearance 0.064 mm

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal See Chapter 1

Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting 6

Compression test - description and interpretation 3

Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 8

Cylinder head - removal and refitting 7

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal 10

Engine oil and filter renewal See Chapter 1

Engine oil level check See “Weekly checks”

Flywheel - removal, inspection and refitting 9General information 1Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting 5Timing chain, tensioner and sprockets - removal and refitting 4Valve clearances - checking and adjustment 2

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner withsome experience

3 2

1

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Engine mounting nuts 34 25

Oil pump screws 7 5

Cylinder head bolts:

Stage 1 50 37

Stage 2 77 57

Chain tensioner bolts 7 5

Camshaft sprocket bolt 73 54

Timing chain cover bolts 7 5

Crankshaft pulley nut 88 65

Flywheel bolts 66 49

Rocker cover bolts 7 5

1 General information

How to use this Chapter

This Part of Chapter 2 describes those

repair procedures that can reasonably be

carried out on the XV, XW and XY series

engines while they remain in the car If the

engine has been removed from the car and is

being dismantled as described in Part D, any

preliminary dismantling procedures can be

ignored Refer to Part B and C for information

on the XU series and TU series engines

Part D describes the removal of the

engine/transmission from the vehicle, and the

full overhaul procedures that can then be

carried out

Engine description

One of three different capacity engines in

this series may be fitted, the difference in

displacement being achieved by increasing

the bore and stroke The engine, which has

four cylinders and an overhead camshaft, is

mounted transversely, driving the front

wheels, and it is inclined to the rear at an

angle of 72° from vertical

The manual transmission is also mounted

transversely in line with and below the engine,

and the final drive to the roadwheels is via the

differential unit which is integral with the

transmission Drive from the engine to the

transmission is by means of transfer gears

which are separately encased in the clutch

housing

The crankcase, cylinder head, gearcase

and clutch housing are all manufactured from

aluminium alloy Removable wet cylinder

liners are fitted; the aluminium pistons each

have two compression rings and one oil

control ring The valves are operated by the

single overhead camshaft via rocker arms

The camshaft drives the distributor at the

flywheel end The timing sprocket, located at

the other end of the camshaft, incorporates a

separate eccentric lobe which actuates the

fuel pump The timing chain is driven from the

crankshaft sprocket Next to the timing chain

sprocket is the gearwheel which drives the oilpump This is mounted low down against thecrankcase face and is enclosed in the timingchain cover

The crankshaft runs in five shell type mainbearings and the endfloat is adjustable via apair of semi-circular thrustwashers

Somewhat inconveniently, the lower halfcrankcase interconnects the engine with thetransmission and limits the number ofoperations that can be carried out with theengine in the car The engine andtransmissions share the same mountings Aforced feed lubrication system is employed

The oil pump is attached to the crankcase inthe lower section of the timing chest and itincorporates the pressure relief valve Thepump is driven by gears from the crankshaft

Oil from the pump passes via an oilway tothe oil filter, and thence to the crankshaft mainbearings, connecting rod bearings andtransmission components Another oilwayfrom the filter delivers oil to the overheadcamshaft and rocker components Oil fromthe cylinder head passes to the transfer gearhousing and then back to the sump containedwithin the transmission housing

Apart from the standard replaceablecanister filter located on the outside of thecrankcase there is a gauze filter incorporated

in the oil pump suction inlet within thetransmission casing

Repair operations possible with the engine in the car

The following work can be carried out withthe engine in the car:

a) Valve clearances - adjustment

b) Compression pressure - testing.

c) Timing chain - removal and refitting.

d) Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting.

e) Camshaft and rocker arms - removal, inspection and refitting.

f) Cylinder head - removal and refitting

g) Cylinder head and pistons decarbonising.

-h) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.

i) Flywheel - removal and refitting.

j) Engine mountings - inspection and renewal.

2 Valve clearances - checking

and adjustment 2

Note: The valve clearances must be checked

and adjusted only when the engine is cold.

1 The importance of having the valve

clearances correctly adjusted cannot beoverstressed, as they vitally affect theperformance of the engine If the clearancesare too big, the engine will be noisy(characteristic rattling or tapping noises) andengine efficiency will be reduced, as thevalves open too late and close too early Amore serious problem arises if the clearancesare too small, however If this is the case, thevalves may not close fully when the engine ishot, resulting in serious damage to the engine(eg burnt valve seats and/or cylinder headwarping/cracking) The clearances arechecked and adjusted as follows

2 Disconnect the spark plug HT leads and

remove the oil filler/crankcase ventilation capfrom the rocker cover

3 Remove the rocker cover and then turn the

engine using a spanner on the crankshaftpulley nut until the valves on No 1 cylinder arerocking (ie inlet valve opening and exhaustvalve closing)

4 The rocker arm clearances of both valves of

No 4 cylinder can now be checked and, ifnecessary, adjusted Remember that No 1cylinder is at the flywheel/clutch end of theengine

5 The feeler blade of the correct thickness is

inserted between the valve stem and rockerarm When the clearance is correctly set thefeeler blade should be a smooth stiff sliding fitbetween the valve stem and rocker arm Thecorrect valve clearances are given in the

Specifications at the start of this Chapter The

valve locations can be determined from theposition of the manifolds Note that enginesmanufactured from January 1987, with

Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed first - see Chapter 1.