frommer's iceland

£15.99 UK/$21.99 USA/$25.99 CAN Find travel news & deals, expert advice, and connect with fellow travelers at View of the mountains from Reykjavik waterfront. See chapter 6. Detailed maps throughout • Exact prices, directions, opening hours, and other practical information • Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus sights, shopping, and nightlife • Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas • Insider tips from local expert authors 2nd Edition 2nd Edition Iceland Iceland Laki Laki Hekla Hekla Kverkfj Kverkfjö ll ll Askja Askja Sn Snæ fell fell Hr Hrú tafell tafell Kerlingarfj Kerlingarfjö ll ll Herðubreið Herðubreið Gr Grí msv msvö tn tn Esjufj Esjufjö ll ll Hafursey Hafursey Hvannadalshn Hvannadalshnú kur kur Goðaberg Goðaberg Bú landstindur landstindur Hofsj Hofsjö kull kull Þr Þrá ndarj ndarjö kull kull Hó lmatindur lmatindur Heljardalsfj Heljardalsfjö ll ll Gunn Gunnó lfsvikurfjall lfsvikurfjall Eil Eilí fur fur Krafla Krafla Ketildyngja Ketildyngja Hverfell Hverfell Kaldbakur Kaldbakur Dr Drá puhl puhlí ðarfjall ðarfjall Kirkjufell Kirkjufell Ok Ok Hafnarfjall Hafnarfjall Akrafjall Akrafjall Gr Grá br brók Eldborg Eldborg Há afjall afjall Tindast Tindastö ll ll Hellufell Hellufell Hj Hjö rleifsh rleifshö fði fði Ing Ingó lfsfjall lfsfjall Hengill Hengill Skjaldbreiður Skjaldbreiður Brunnhorn Brunnhorn Dyrfj Dyrfjö ll ll Grímsey Grímsey Westman Islands Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) (Vestmannaeyjar) Flatey Flatey Elli Ellið aey aey Má lmey lmey Surtsey Surtsey Heimaey Heimaey Skr Skrú dur dur Papey Papey Flatey Flatey Eldey Eldey Ódáðahraun Ódáðahraun S k e i ð a r á r s a n d u r F l j o t s d a l h e i ð i L ó n s ö r æ f i S p r e n g i s a n d u r K j ö l u r Þ j ó r s á r d a l u r Látrabjarg Látrabjarg Hornbjarg Hornbjarg Ingólfshöfði Ingólfshöfði Stokksnes Stokksnes Hvalnes Hvalnes Fontur Fontur Hraunhafnartangi Hraunhafnartangi Rauðin Rauðinú pur pur Siglunes Siglunes Dyrh Dyrhó laey laey Reykjanest Reykjanestá Sn Snæ fellsnes fellsnes Peninsula Peninsula Melrakkasl Melrakkaslé tta tta Reykjanes Reykjanes Peninsula Peninsula H o r n s t r a n d i r Skagheiði Skagheiði Tj Tjö rnes rnes Í Fj Fjö rðum rðum Tr Trö llaskagi llaskagi Langanes Langanes Faxafl Faxaflói Hú nafl naflói Brei Breið afj afjörð ur ur Hvammsfj H v amm s f j ö r ð ur u r Arnarfj A r n ar f j ö r ð ur u r Í safjar s a f j a r ð ardj a r d j ú p Skj Skjá lfandi lfandi Ö xarfj xarfjörð ur ur Vopnafj Vopnafjörð ur ur Eyj a E y j a fj f j ö rð ur u r Rey Reyð arfj arfjörð ur ur Mývatn Mývatn Þ órisvatn órisvatn Þ ingvalla ingvalla -vatn -vatn ARCTIC OCEAN A R C T I C O C E A N Denmark Denmark Strait Strait Kv Kví slavatn slavatn Ö skjuvatn skjuvatn Græ nal nalón Hé ra rað sfl sflói Bakkafl Bakkaflói Patreksfj P a t r e k s f jö r ð ur u r Að alv alvík Haffj Haffjörð ur ur B o r g a r f j ö r ð u r Bl Blö ndul ndulón H óp óp Sultartangal Sultartangalón Ap Ap avatn avatn Eyrarbakkabugur Eyrarbakkabugur L a g a r f l j ó t S k j á l f a n d a f l j ó t N ú p s á Þj Þ j órsá ó r s á T ungna T u n g n a á Skaft S k a f t á K a l d a k v í s l Jö kuls kulsá rl rlón J ö k u l s a á B r ú J ö k u l s a á F j ö l l u m S a n d á Selá S e l á H o f s á F njóská F n j ó s k á E y j a f j a r ð a r á E y s t r i - J ö k u l s á V e s t a r i - J ö k u l s á Blanda B l a n d a S v a r t á V a t n s d a l s á V í ð h i d a l s á Lögurinn Lögurinn Dranga Drangajö kull kull Hjaltadals Hjaltadals -j -jö kull kull Myrk Myrkár -j -jö kull kull Tungnahryggs Tungnahryggs -j -jö kull kull VATNAJ VATNAJÖ KULL KULL Skálafells Skálafellsjö kull kull Breiðamerkur- Breiðamerkur- jökull jökull Dyngjujökull Dyngjujökull Brúarjökull Brúarjökull Eyjabakka- Eyjabakka- jökull jökull Hoffellsjökull Hoffellsjökull Öræ faj fajö kull kull Skeiðarár- Skeiðarár- jökull jökull Skaftárjökull Skaftárjökull Hofsj Hofsjö kull kull Langj Langjö kull kull Eiriksj Eiriksjö kull kull Þorisj Þorisjö kull kull M ýrdalsj ýrdalsjö kull kull Eyjafjalla- Eyjafjalla- jö kull kull Tindfjallaj Tindfjallajö kull kull Tungnafells- Tungnafells- jö kull kull Sn Snæ fellsj fellsjö kull kull Hvit H v i t á Hvit H v i t á Y t r i - R a n g á Þ i s t i l f j ö r ð u r J ö k u l s a á D a l REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK Ísa Ísa fjörður fjörður Húsavík Húsavík Akureyri Akureyri Sey Seyð is is fjörður fjörður Egilssta Egilssta ðir ðir Höfn Höfn Keflavík Keflavík REYKJAVÍK Ísafjörður Húsavík Akureyri Seyðisfjörður Egilsstaðir Höfn Keflavík Laki Hekla Kverkfjöll Askja Snæfell Hrútafell Kerlingarfjöll Herðubreið Grímsvötn Esjufjöll Hafursey Hvannadalshnúkur Goðaberg Búlandstindur Hofsjökull Þrándarjökull Hólmatindur Heljardalsfjöll Gunnólfsvikurfjall Eilífur Krafla Ketildyngja Hverfell Kaldbakur Drápuhlíðarfjall Kirkjufell Ok Hafnarfjall Akrafjall Grábrók Eldborg Háafjall Tindastöll Hellufell Hjörleifshöfði Ingólfsfjall Hengill Skjaldbreiður Brunnhorn Dyrfjöll Grímsey Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) Flatey Elliðaey Málmey Surtsey Heimaey Skrúdur Papey Flatey Eldey Ódáðahraun S k e i ð a r á r s a n d u r F l j o t s d a l h e i ð i L ó n s ö r æ f i S p r e n g i s a n d u r K j ö l u r Þ j ó r s á r d a l u r Látrabjarg Hornbjarg Ingólfshöfði Stokksnes Hvalnes Fontur Hraunhafnartangi Rauðinúpur Siglunes Dyrhólaey Reykjanestá Snæfellsnes Peninsula Melrakkaslétta Reykjanes Peninsula H o r n s t r a n d i r Skagheiði Tjörnes Í Fjörðum Tröllaskagi Langanes Faxaflói Húnaflói Breiðafjörður Hvammsfjörð ur Arnarfjörður Ísafjarð ardj ú p Skjálfandi Öxarfjörður Vopnafjörður Eyj afj örður Reyðarfjörður Mývatn Þórisvatn Þingvalla -vatn ARCTIC OCEAN Denmark Strait Kvíslavatn Öskjuvatn Grænalón Héraðsflói Bakkaflói Patreksfjörður Aðalvík Haffjörður B o r g a r f j ö r ð u r Blöndulón Hóp Sultartangalón Apavatn Eyrarbakkabugur L a g a r f l j ó t S k j á l f a n d a f l j ó t N ú p s á Þjórsá T ungnaá Skaftá K a l d a k v í s l Jökulsárlón J ö k u l s a á B r ú J ö k u l s a á F j ö l l u m S a n d á Selá H o f s á F njóská E y j a f j a r ð a r á E y s t r i - J ö k u l s á V e s t a r i - J ö k u l s á Blanda S v a r t á V a t n s d a l s á V í ð h i d a l s á Lögurinn Drangajökull Hjaltadals -jökull Myrkár -jökull Tungnahryggs -jökull VATNAJÖKULL Skálafellsjökull Breiðamerkur- jökull Dyngjujökull Brúarjökull Eyjabakka- jökull Hoffellsjökull Öræfajökull Skeiðarár- jökull Skaftárjökull Hofsjökull Langjökull Eiriksjökull Þorisjökull Mýrdalsjökull Eyjafjalla- jökull Tindfjallajökull Tungnafells- jökull Snæfellsjökull Hvitá Hvitá Y t r i - R a n g á Þ i s t i l f j ö r ð u r J ö k u l s a á D a l ICELAND 40 mi0 0 40 km 1 711 F35 1 1 1 1 F26 F26 F261 F208 F752 F821 61 60 76 745 85 85 85 F88 93 96 Faxafl Faxaflói Hú nafl naflói Breiðafj Breiðafjö rður rður Ö xarfj xarfjö rður rður Skaga S k a g a fj f j ö rður r ð ur ARCTIC OCEAN A R C T I C O C E A N Denmark Denmark Strait Strait Hé raðsfl raðsflói Eyrarbakkabugur Eyrarbakkabugur Dranga Drangajö kull kull Hofsj Hofsjö kull kull Langj Langjö kull kull Westman Is. Westman Is. Skr Skrú dur dur Flatey Flatey Látrabjarg Látrabjarg Hornbjarg Hornbjarg Ingólfshöfði Ingólfshöfði Stokksnes Stokksnes Hvalnes Hvalnes Fontur Fontur Hraunhafnartangi Hraunhafnartangi Rauðin Rauðinú pur pur Siglunes Siglunes Dyrh Dyrhó laey laey Reykjanest Reykjanestá Sn Snæ fellsnes fellsnes Peninsula Peninsula Reykjanes Reykjanes Peninsula Peninsula H o r n s t r a n d i r Þingvellir Þingvellir National Park National Park Snæfellj Snæfellj ökull ökull National Park National Park Grímsey Grímsey Bíldudalur Bíldudalur Þórshöfn Þórshöfn Vopnaörður Vopnaörður REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK Ísa Ísa örður örður Sau Sauð árkrókur árkrókur Akureyri Akureyri Egilssta Egilssta ðir ðir Höfn Höfn Keflavík Keflavík Heimaey Heimaey Gj Gjö gur gur Bakki Bakki Selfoss Selfoss Hrísey Hrísey Árskógssandur Árskógssandur Bolungarvík Bolungarvík Dalvík Dalvík Sey Seyð is is örður örður Stykkishólmur Stykkishólmur Norðurörður Norðurörður Brjánsl Brjánsl æku ækur Sæb Sæból Reykjar Reykjar ör örð ur ur Bolungarv Bolungarvík Flatey Flatey To/From To/From Europe Europe Djúpivogur Djúpivogur Papey Papey Landeyjahöfn Landeyjahöfn Jökulsárgljúfur Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon Canyon Mýrdals- jökull Eyjafjalla- jökull Þorlákshöfn Þorlákshöfn Faxaflói Húnaflói Breiðafjörður Öxarfjörður Skagafjörður ARCTIC OCEAN Denmark Strait Héraðsflói Eyrarbakkabugur Drangajökull VATNAJÖKULL Hofsjökull Langjökull Mýrdals- jökull Eyjafjalla- jökull Westman Is. Skrúdur Flatey Látrabjarg Hornbjarg Ingólfshöfði Stokksnes Hvalnes Fontur Hraunhafnartangi Rauðinúpur Siglunes Dyrhólaey Reykjanestá Snæfellsnes Peninsula Reykjanes Peninsula H o r n s t r a n d i r Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon Þingvellir National Park Vatnajökull National Park Snæfelljökull National Park Skaftafell Skaftafell Grímsey Bíldudalur Þórshöfn Vopnaörður REYKJAVÍK Ísaörður Sauðárkrókur Akureyri Egilsstaðir Höfn Keflavík Heimaey Gjögur Bakki Selfoss Hrísey Árskógssandur Landeyjahöfn Bolungarvík Dalvík Seyðisörður Stykkishólmur Norðurörður Brjánslækur Sæból Reykjarörður Bolungarvík Flatey To/From Europe Djúpivogur Papey Þorlákshöfn Air Routes Ferry Routes GETTING AROUND ICELAND 40 mi0 0 40 km Iceland 2nd Edition by Jane Appleton & Lisa Shannen A John Wiley and Sons, Ltd, Publication 01_9780470973790-ffirs.indd i01_9780470973790-ffirs.indd i 12/1/10 10:50 PM12/1/10 10:50 PM Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, UK Telephone (+44) 1243 779777 Email (for orders and customer service enquiries): cs-books@wiley.co.uk. Visit our Home Page on www.wiley.com All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmit- ted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except under the terms of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 or under the terms of a licence issued by the Copyright Licensing Agency Ltd, Saffron House, 6-10 Kirby Street, London EC1N 8TS, UK, without the permission in writing of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons Ltd, The Atrium, Southern Gate, Chichester, West Sussex PO19 8SQ, England, or emailed to permreq@wiley.co.uk, or faxed to (+44) 1243 770620. Designations used by companies to distinguish their products are often claimed as trademarks. All brand names and product names used in this book are trade names, service marks, trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners. The Publisher is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information in regard to the subject matter covered. It is sold on the understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering profes- sional services. If professional advice or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional should be sought. UK Publisher: Sally Smith Project Manager: Daniel Mersey Commissioning Editor: Mark Henshall Development Editor: Nick Dalton & Deborah Stone Project Editor: Hannah Clement Cartography: Andrew Murphy Photo Editor: Jill Emeny Front Cover Photo: © Hemis / Axiom. Description: Church, Iceland Back Cover Photo: © Alex Sands / Alamy. Description: Solfar Sun Voyager sculpture in Reykjavik Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books. For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-0-470-97379-0 (pbk) ISBN 978-0-470-97932-7 (ebk) ISBN 978-1-119-99443-5 (ebk) ISBN 978-1-119-99461-9 (ebk) Typeset by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Printed and bound in the United States of America 54321 01_9780470973790-ffirs.indd ii01_9780470973790-ffirs.indd ii 12/1/10 10:50 PM12/1/10 10:50 PM When to Go 31 TEMPERATURE 32 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 32 PACKING SUGGESTIONS FOR ICELAND 33 Iceland in the Off Season 35 THE BIG ROUND-UP 36 Entry Requirements 37 Getting There & Getting Around 39 Money & Costs 46 THE VALUE OF ICELANDIC KRONA VS. OTHER POPULAR CURRENCIES  46 Staying Healthy 48 Special Travel Resources 50 FROMMERS.COM: THE COMPLETE TRAVEL RESOURCE  54 Responsible Tourism 54 GENERAL RESOURCES FOR GREEN TRAVEL 55 Special Interest & Escorted Trips 56 Staying Connected 59 Tips on Accommodations 61 THE CASE FOR HOSTELS 63 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP 31 CONTENTS List of Maps vii 1 THE BEST OF ICELAND 1 2 ICELAND IN DEPTH 13 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences 4 The Best Natural Wonders 5 The Best Waterfalls 5 The Most Charming Towns & Villages 6 The Best Big-Name Hiking Areas 7 The Best Off-The-Beaten-Track Hiking Areas 7 The Best Museums 8 The Best Places to Stay with Local Character 9 The Best Dining Experiences 10 The Best of Iceland Online 11 Iceland Today 14 ELVES IN THE ICELANDIC PSYCHE 15 Art & Architecture 16 ICELAND’S THOUSAND YEARS DATELINE 16 Fire, Ice & the Tallest Bonsai Forests in the World 18 Iceland in Popular Culture: Music, Books & Film 20 THE U.S. PULL-OUT 24 HALLDÓR KILJAN LAXNESS (1902–1998) 25 Eating & Drinking in Iceland 25 Restaurants 26 02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd iii02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd iii 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM 4 ACTIVE ICELAND 67 Aerial Tours 68 Biking 68 Birdwatching 69 Caving 70 Dogsledding 70 Fishing 71 Glacier Tours 72 Golf 73 Hiking 74 Horseback Riding 76 Hunting 77 4WD Tours 77 Kayaking 78 Photography 78 Pools & Spas 79 Rafting 80 Rock Climbing 80 Scuba Diving & Snorkeling 80 Snow Sports 81 Volcanoes 82 Whale-Watching 83 5 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 84 THE BEST OF ICELAND IN 4 DAYS 84 THE BEST 0F ICELAND IN ONE WEEK 86 THE BEST OF ICELAND IN 2 WEEKS 88 HOME BASE REYKJAVÍK: 5 DAYS WITH THE FAMILY  93 HIKING ICELAND 96 6 REYKJAVÍK 98 Orientation 98 Getting Around 99 Tours 100 FAST FACTS: REYKJAVÍK 101 Where to Stay 103 Where to Dine 113 What to See & Do 120 Pools, Spas, Outdoor Activities & Spectator Sports 133 REYKJAVÍK THERMAL POOL GUIDE 134 Shopping 136 Reykjavík Nightlife 141 7 NEAR REYKJAVÍK 147 Hafnarfjörður 147 NOTES ON ENTERING THE COUNTRYSIDE  148 Mosfellsbær 150 Esja, Hvalfjörður & Akranes 151 Golden Circle: Þingvellir, Geysir & Gullfoss 154 WHY DOES ÞINGVELLIR CHURCH HAVE TWO ALTARPIECES?  158 The Blue Lagoon (Bláa Lónið) 164 Keflavík 166 Reykjanes Peninsula 170 Hveragerði, Selfoss & Nearby 174 A DAY HIKE IN HENGILL 176 02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd iv02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd iv 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM 8 WEST ICELAND 180 Borgarnes, Reykholt & Farther Inland 181 Snæfellsnes 188 HORSEBACK RIDING ON SNÆFELLSNES 191 NORTHERN LIGHTS: AURORA BOREALIS 193 A SHORT HISTORY OF GOING BERSERK IN ICELAND  195 Stykkishólmur & Breiðafjörður 199 Westfjords: The Southwest Coast 203 CLIFF-SCALING ICELANDERS TO THE RESCUE  207 Central Westfjords 210 Ísafjörður & Ísafjarðardjúp 213 The Strandir Coast 221 Hornstrandir Nature Reserve 225 9 NORTH ICELAND 228 Húnaflói 229 Skagafjörður 234 THE COWBOY OF SKAGASTRÖND 235 WHY BUILD A HOUSE WITH TURF? 237 Akureyri 245 FAST FACTS: AKUREYRI 248 Near Akureyri 257 Mývatn & Krafla 263 Húsavík & Nearby 272 WAS ICELAND’S FIRST SETTLER NOT A VIKING?  274 THE SAGA OF ICELANDIC WHALING 275 Vatnajökull National Park 280 The Northeast Corner 284 10 SOUTH ICELAND 290 Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) 291 THE GREAT PUFFLING RESCUE 296 Þjórsárdalur & Hekla 298 ASCENDING HEKLA 301 Landmannalaugar, Fjallabak & Surroundings 301 THE LAUGAVEGURINN 304 Hella, Hvolsvöllur & Markarfljót Valley 305 THE RING OF FIRE 306 NJÁL’S SAGA & ITS SITES 308 Þórsmörk 311 THE FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS TREK 314 Skógar, Vík & Mýrdalsjökull 314 TROLL TALES 317 ACTIVE VOLCANOES 318 Kirkjubæjarklaustur & Laki Craters 321 Vatnajökull, Skeiðarársandur & Skaftafell 324 THE GLACIER MYSTIQUE 325 Between Skaftafell & Höfn 328 02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd v02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd v 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM 11 EAST ICELAND 332 Höfn 332 Lónsöræfi 337 Lower Eastfjords: Djúpivogur to Fáskrúðsfjörður 339 Middle Eastfjords: Reyðarfjörður, Eskifjörður & Neskaupstaður 345 Egilsstaðir 346 Inland from Egilsstaðir: Lögurinn, Snæfell & Kárahnjúkar 350 KÁRAHNJÚKAR: ICELAND’S LOST WILDERNESS  353 Seyðisfjörður 354 A DAY HIKE IN SEYÐISFJÖRÐUR   357 Borgarfjörður Eystri 359 HIDDEN PEOPLE, ELVES & MODERN ICELAND  362 Fljótsdalshérað Valley 364 Egilsstaðir to Mývatn 365 12 THE INTERIOR 366 Kjölur Route 367 THE KJÖLURVEGUR TREK 369 Sprengisandur Route 370 Askja, Kverkfjöll & Eastern Interior Routes 373 13 FAST FACTS 378 Airline, Hotel & Car Rental Websites 380 14 ICELANDIC PRONUNCIATION & USEFUL VOCABULARY  381 Pronunciation Guide 381 ICELANDERS: ON A FIRST-NAME BASIS 382 Basic Vocabulary & Phrases 383 Glossary of Geographical Terms 385 Index 388 Accommodations Index 399 Restaurant Index 401 02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd vi02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd vi 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM LIST OF MAPS Iceland2 Iceland in 4 Days85 Iceland in 1 Week87 Iceland in 2 Weeks89 5 Days with the Family94 Hiking Iceland97 Where to Stay & Dine in Reykjavík104 What to See & Do in Reykjavík122 Near Reykjavík149 Þingvellir National Park156 Keflavík168 West Iceland182 Snæfellsnes Peninsula189 Westfjords204 Ísafjörður214 North Iceland230 Akureyri246 Lake Mývatn264 Húsavik273 Jökulsárgljúfur281 South Iceland292 Heimaey Island (Home Island)294 East Iceland333 Höfn334 Egilsstaðir347 Seyðisfjörður355 The Interior368 LIST OF MAPS 02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd vii02_9780470973790-ftoc.indd vii 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM ABOUT THE AUTHORS Jane Appleton is a writer, translator, proofreader and copy editor who visited Iceland in 2003 and has lived there ever since. She studied literature and politics at the University of Melbourne, and Icelandic and translation at the University of Iceland. Lisa Shannen is a writer and composer who has been living in Iceland on and off for more than ten years. She studied Sound Technology at LIPA in Liverpool and Literature at the University of Iceland. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors would like to thank the following for their generous help: Ásta Tþorleifsdóttir and Tþuríður H. Aradóttir; staff at Útivist, especially Skúli Skúlason; Guðmundur Heiðrekssonfrom from the roads administration of Iceland; staff at tourist information offices from Hellnar to Seyðisfjörður and dozens in between; hotel and restaurant managers, and tour operators all over Iceland, but especially staff at Ferðafélag Íslands and Sterna; Roman Gerasymenko; Fríða Rakel Kaaber; Jean Christophe Salaün; David Anthony Nobel; Pall Guðmundsson for advice on Krafla; Sigga Gróa Tþórarinsdóttir and the Icelandic Tourist Board; Mark Henshall, Jill Emeny, Scott Totman, and especially Nick Dalton for his patience and persistence in the final edit. To Evan Spring and Zoë Preston (authors of the first edition) it has been a wonderful experience for us to update this outstanding travel guide. Jane thanks Ólöf and Stéphane for office facilities; Cara for keeping me sane on a daily basis; and Villi and Sigmar for being Villi and Sigmar (and the reason I gets to live in this beautiful country). Lisa thanks Stephen, Sindri and Svanur for their daily patience, and especially Roman for his support, good sense and excellent puzzle-solving skills! 03_9780470973790-flast.indd viii03_9780470973790-flast.indd viii 12/1/10 10:52 PM12/1/10 10:52 PM [...]... magazine found all over Iceland, is a resource for reviews of art, music, dining, shopping, and trips within Iceland Issues are archived and searchable online www.halfdan.is/vestur/vestur.htm: The Emigration from Iceland to North America is the best site for non-Icelanders of Icelandic descent to trace their ancestry and find living relatives www.icelandweatherreport.com: The Iceland Weather Report... portrait of Icelandic society Ring of Seasons: Iceland, Its Culture and History (University of Michigan Press, 2000)—by Terry G Lacy, an American sociologist who has lived in Iceland since the 1970s—is highly engaging and insightful History of Iceland: From the Settlement to the Present Day, by Jón R Hjálmarsson (Iceland Review Press, 1993), is a tidy, 200-page primer on Icelandic history Iceland s 1100... cultural insights, tips, and whacky facts about Iceland since 2004 It is rarely about the weather (go figure) Icelandophiles will enjoy joining in the conversations and searching the archives W www.grapevine.is: W W THE BEST OF ICELAND The Best of Iceland Online 1 12 04_9780470973790-ch01.indd 12 12/1/10 10:52 PM ICELAND IN DEPTH T ell friends you’re going to Iceland, and many will 2 wonder whether they’d... http://kort.bok.hi.is: Antique Maps of Iceland has high-resolution digital files of vintage, pre-1900 maps of Iceland Some 16th- and 17th-century maps include sketches of fantastic sea monsters leaping out of the ocean off the coast of Iceland www.northernlite.ca/19thcenturyiceland/: Ed Jackson is a connoisseur of rare and long-forgotten Iceland travelogues, and his website Travels in 19th Century Iceland presents absorbing... the Icelandic flag was raised in its place Iceland now has no armed forces on its territory In 1940 the British occupied Iceland to prevent a German takeover The Americans moved in the following year and have guaranteed Iceland s protection ever since U.S forces left after the war, but re-established a large base at Keflavík on behalf of NATO soon after the U.S.– Iceland Defense Agreement of 1951 Iceland. .. own To prevent psyche ICELAND IN DEPTH ELVES IN THE ICELANDIC 2 this, Icelandic mothers would make a sign of the cross both above and below their babies after laying them in the cradle The term “Hidden People” (huldufólk) applies collectively to various humanoid creatures living in Iceland, including elves, dwarves, gnomes, trolls, and so on When Viking ships first arrived in Iceland, dragon heads... every tourist’s wildest dream and designed a country based on the result: Iceland The only thing Icelandic nature Impressions does lack is trees You won’t get lost in a forest (The advice in Iceland if you Iceland has “the most magical light of do manage this unlikely feat is: “Stand anywhere on earth.” up!”) It is widely held that Iceland was —W H Auden once much more forested, but that composed in a... includes 11 of the Icelandic family sagas 1262–1380 Norwegian rule Plans by the Norwegian crown to take over Iceland are first recorded in the year 1220, when Snorri Sturlasson unsuccessfully tried to win Iceland over to the king of Norway A period of conflict ensued culminating in the Battle of Örlygsstaðir in North Iceland Conflict continued until 1262 when Gissur (the first earl of Iceland) induced the... The Danish government in Iceland was wiped continues 19 05_9780470973790-ch02.indd 19 12/2/10 9:12 AM ICELAND IN POPULAR CULTURE: MUSIC, BOOKS & FILM MUSIC ICELAND IN DEPTH Iceland in Popular Culture: Music, Books & Film 2 It’s quite amazing that a country with only 317,000 people can produce so many talented musicians, with such a diversity of styles and genres The rise of Iceland as a producer of... centuries more recent Many consider the sagas Iceland s greatest national treasure and their status is consistent with the Icelandic people’s love of literature With one of the most literate populations in the world, Iceland produces more novels per capita than any other country, so don’t be surprised if every second Icelander you meet has published their own book Icelanders are prolific writers and won’t . 12/1/10 10:51 PM12/1/10 10:51 PM LIST OF MAPS Iceland 2 Iceland in 4 Days85 Iceland in 1 Week87 Iceland in 2 Weeks89 5 Days with the Family94 Hiking Iceland 97 Where to Stay & Dine in Reykjavík104 What. ITINERARIES 84 THE BEST OF ICELAND IN 4 DAYS 84 THE BEST 0F ICELAND IN ONE WEEK 86 THE BEST OF ICELAND IN 2 WEEKS 88 HOME BASE REYKJAVÍK: 5 DAYS WITH THE FAMILY  93 HIKING ICELAND 96 6 REYKJAVÍK 98 Orientation 98 Getting. Character 9 The Best Dining Experiences 10 The Best of Iceland Online 11 Iceland Today 14 ELVES IN THE ICELANDIC PSYCHE 15 Art & Architecture 16 ICELAND S THOUSAND YEARS DATELINE 16 Fire, Ice &