$22.99 USA/$27.99 CAN/£16.99 UK Find travel news & deals, expert advice, and connect with fellow travelers at spine=.96" Terraced rice paddies in the highlands of Lào Cai Province, Terraced rice paddies in the highlands of Lào Cai Province, bordering China (see chapter 6).bordering China (see chapter 6). Detailed maps throughout • Exact prices, directions, opening hours, and other practical information • Candid reviews of hotels and restaurants, plus sights, shopping, and nightlife • Itineraries, walking tours, and trip-planning ideas • Insider tips from local expert authors 3rd Edition 3rd Edition Vietnam with Angkor Wat Vietnam with Angkor Wat To call Vietnam from the United States: Dial the international access code (011), followed by the country code (84), followed by the city code, without the 0, then the local number. Dial, for example, 011-84-4-555-5555. To make international calls from Vietnam: Dial 00 followed by the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64), the area code, and the local number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800. To call within Vietnam: Visit the post office for public phone service at affordable rates, or buy a domestic phone card at any post office or phone company branch. To charge international calls from Vietnam: Use an international calling card program, such as AT&T or MCI. For more details, from the U.S., call AT&T at 1-800-CALL-ATT or MCI at 1-800-938-4949. If you have a GSM phone that accepts SIM cards, you can buy an affordable plan at any post office or telecommunications center. In this case, receiving calls from anywhere is free of charge, so you can buy someone back home an affordable international phone card and arrange times when they can call you. For directory assistance: Dial 116 if you're looking for a number inside Vietnam. For operator assistance: Dial 110. For further information, see Fast Facts in chapter 2. To convert. U.S. gallons to liters Liters to U.S. gallons U.S. gallons to imperial gallons Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons Imperial gallons to liters Liters to imperial gallons multiply by 3.8 .26 .83 1.20 4.55 .22 1 liter = .26 U.S. gallon 1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters To convert inches to centimeters centimeters to inches feet to meters meters to feet yards to meters meters to yards miles to kilometers kilometers to miles multiply by 2.54 .39 .30 3.28 .91 1.09 1.61 .62 1 mile = 1.6km 1km = .62 mile 1 ft. = .30m 1m = 3.3 ft. To convert Ounces to grams Grams to ounces Pounds to kilograms Kilograms to pounds multiply by 28.35 .035 .45 2.20 1 gram = .04 ounce 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = .4555 kilogram 110˚F 100˚F 50˚F 60˚F 70˚F 80˚F 90˚F 40˚F 32˚F 20˚F 10˚F 0˚F -10˚F -20˚F To convert F to C: subtract 32 and multiply by 5 / 9 (.555) To convert C to F: multiply by 1.8 and add 32 40˚C 30˚C 20˚C 10˚C -18˚C 0˚C -10˚C -30˚C 32˚F = 0˚C C A M B O D I A V I E T N A M Tonle Sap R e d R i v e r GULF OF THAILAND GULF OF TONKIN SOUTH CHINA SEA Tonle Sap M e k o n g R i v e r R e d R i v e r CAMBODIA V I E T N A M THAILAND CHINA L A O S Hainan (CHINA) Siem Reap Batdambang Phnom Penh Can Tho Tan An Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Dalat Nha Trang Quy Nhon Quang Ngai Danang Hue Vinh Sapa Thai Nguyen Hanoi Angkor Wat Siem Reap Batdambang Phnom Penh Can Tho Tan An Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Dalat Nha Trang Quy Nhon Quang Ngai Danang Hue Vinh Sapa Thai Nguyen Hanoi Angkor Wat VIETNAM and CAMBODIA N 100 mi0 0 100 km Sea level to 500 ft. (0–152 m) 500 to 1,000 ft. (152–305 m) 1,000 to 2,500 ft. (305–762 m) 2,500 to 5,000 ft. (762–1,524 m) Above 5,000 ft (1,524+ m) KEY TO ELEVATION spine=.96" Vietnam 3rd Edition by Sherisse Pham 01_526606-ffirs.indd i01_526606-ffirs.indd i 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM ABOUT THE AUTHOR Sherisse Pham was a Beijing-based freelance journalist for over 4 years but recently relo- cated to New York to study at Columbia University’s Graduate School of Journalism. She has contributed to several Frommer’s guides and has written for WWD, The South China Morning Post, People Magazine, CNN.com, and Zagat Survey among others. She gradu- ates in 2010 and hopes to eventually return to Asia to continue reporting on the region. Published by: WILEY PUBLISHING, INC. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2010 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copy- right Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, 201/748-6011, fax 201/748-6008, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-52660-6 Editor: Michael Kelly, with Alexia Travaglini Production Editor: Michael Brumitt Cartographer: Andrew Dolan Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Fisherwomen at sunset © Alex Bramwell / iStock Photo. Back cover photo: Rice paddy in Sa Pa, Lao Cai Province © Pichai Khaola / iStock Photo. For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 877/762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 5 4 3 2 1 01_526606-ffirs.indd ii01_526606-ffirs.indd ii 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM CONTENTS LIST OF MAPS vi 1 THE BEST OF VIETNAM 1 1 The Best Vietnam Experiences. . . . . .1 2 The Best Sites (According to UNESCO) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 3 The Best Temples & Archaeological Sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 4 The Best Museums. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 5 The Best Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 6 The Best of the Outdoors. . . . . . . . . . .3 7 The Best Luxury Accommodations. . . . 4 8 The Best Midrange Accommodations. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 9 The Best Dining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 2 VIETNAM IN DEPTH 7 1 Who Are the Vietnamese?. . . . . . . . . .7 2 Vietnamese Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 3 A Look at the Past: Vietnam the Country, Not the War . . . . . . . . . .9 3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO VIETNAM 18 1 When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Vietnam Calendar of Events . . . . . . . .19 Less Is More: Packing & Clothing in the Tropics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 2 Entry Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 3 Getting There & Getting Around . . .23 4 Money & Costs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 What Things Cost in Vietnam. . . . . . .27 5 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 AIDS in Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 6 Safety. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Responsible Tourism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 7 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . .36 8 Sustainable Tourism. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 General Resources for Green Travel . . .42 9 Special-Interest & Escorted General-Interest Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Tours for Vietnam Veterans . . . . . . . . .44 10 Staying Connected. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 11 Tips on Accommodations . . . . . . . . .49 02_526606-ftoc.indd iii02_526606-ftoc.indd iii 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM 4 SUGGESTED ITINERARIES IN VIETNAM 52 1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 2 Doing It All: Vietnam & Cambodia in 28 Days . . . . . . . . . . . . .54 3 Vietnam in 14 Days: North to South . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 4 World Heritage Tour (9 Days) . . . . . .61 5 Get Your Motor Runnin’—Vietnam by Motorcycle or Jeep . . . . . . . . . . . .62 6 A Side Trip to Cambodia . . . . . . . . . .63 5 HANOI 65 Flying Dragons & Thieving Turtles: Hanoi’s Founding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Make Friends with Vietnam Heritage . . .70 The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . .71 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Rigged Taxi Meters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Fast Facts: Hanoi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 3 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88 The Best Authentic Local Fare . . . . . . .90 Have You Tried the Snake? . . . . . . . . . .99 5 Exploring Hanoi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Walking Tour: The Old Quarter. . . . 103 6 Outdoor Activities & Other Fitness Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 8 Hanoi After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 9 Day Trips from Hanoi. . . . . . . . . . . . 126 6 THE NORTHERN HIGHLANDS 128 1 Lao Cai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Hilltribes in Northern Vietnam . . . . 130 2 Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 3 The Dien Bien Phu Loop . . . . . . . . 141 The Minsk: A Guide to Renting & Enjoying Your Big Honkin’ Soviet Motorbike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 4 The Northeastern Highlands Loop. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 7 NORTHEASTERN COAST 157 1 Haiphong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 2 Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 3 Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 4 Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 8 NORTHCENTRAL VIETNAM 173 1 Ninh Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 2 Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Who Was “Uncle Ho”? . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 02_526606-ftoc.indd iv02_526606-ftoc.indd iv 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM 9 CENTRAL VIETNAM 184 1 Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Fast Facts: Hue. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 2 The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) . . . 199 3 Bach Ma National Park . . . . . . . . . . 203 4 Lang Co Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 5 Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Fast Facts: Danang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Who Are the Cham?. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 6 Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Fast Facts: Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 10 THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 232 1 Dalat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Central Highland Ethnic Minority Hilltribes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Fast Facts: Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 2 Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 3 Pleiku & Kontum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 11 SOUTHCENTRAL VIETNAM 261 1 Quy Nhon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Fast Facts: Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Revisit the My Lai Massacre . . . . . . . 267 2 Nha Trang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Fast Facts: Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 3 Outside Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 4 Phan Thiet Town & Mui Ne Beach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Fast Facts: Phan Thiet & Mui Ne . . . 285 12 HO CHI MINH CITY SAIGON 291 A Veteran’s Trip Back. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Fast Facts: Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . 298 2 Where to Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 3 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Quest for the Perfect Noodle . . . . . . 319 4 Exploring Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . 320 5 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 6 Saigon After Dark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 7 Side Trips from Ho Chi Minh City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 13 THE MEKONG DELTA 349 1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 2 My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 3 Can Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Fast Facts: Can Tho. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 4 Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 Fast Facts: Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 5 Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 A Unique Breed: The Phu Quoc Ridgeback. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Fast Facts: Phu Quoc . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 02_526606-ftoc.indd v02_526606-ftoc.indd v 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM LIST OF MAPS Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Hanoi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Hanoi: Old Quarter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Walking Tour: The Old Quarter . . .105 The Northern Highlands . . . . . . . . .129 Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Northeastern Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . .159 Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .161 North-Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . .175 Central Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .185 Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207 Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215 Central Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233 Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237 South-Central Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . .263 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) . . . . . . .302 Mekong Delta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .351 Cambodia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .371 Phnom Penh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .385 Siem Reap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .407 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .423 15 FAST FACTS 441 1 Fast Facts: Vietnam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 2 Airline, Hotel & Car Rental Websites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 16 THE VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE 447 1 The Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 17 VIETNAMESE CUISINE 454 1 Typical Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 2 Dining & Etiquette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 Eew, What’s That?! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 14 CAMBODIA 368 1 Getting to Know Cambodia . . . . . 369 2 Planning Your Trip to Cambodia . . .374 Some Important Safety Tips . . . . . . 377 Fast Facts: Cambodia . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Telephone Dialing Information at a Glance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 3 Phnom Penh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Fast Facts: Phnom Penh . . . . . . . . . . 386 4 Southern Cambodia . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 5 Siem Reap & Angkor Wat. . . . . . . . 405 Give of “Yourself” in Siem Reap. . . . 406 Fast Facts: Siem Reap. . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 The Magic Hours at Angkor Wat . . . 427 6 Battambang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 INDEX 460 02_526606-ftoc.indd vi02_526606-ftoc.indd vi 12/23/09 11:24 PM12/23/09 11:24 PM ACKNOWLEDGMENTS I would like to thank Phan Ho Nam for her excellent support work as a fact-checker and occasional translator. —Sherisse Pham HOW TO CONTACT US In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the informa- tion with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recom- mendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s Vietnam, 3rd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 AN ADDITIONAL NOTE Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is espe- cially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. 03_526606-flast.indd vii03_526606-flast.indd vii 12/23/09 11:25 PM12/23/09 11:25 PM FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recom- mended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recom- mended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Facts Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals Warning! Warning—traveler’s advisories are usually in effect The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express MC MasterCard DC Diners Club V Visa TRAVEL RESOURCES AT FROMMERS.COM Frommer’s travel resources don’t end with this guide. Frommer’s website, www.frommers.com has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations. We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains. You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com mem- bers through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more. 03_526606-flast.indd viii03_526606-flast.indd viii 12/23/09 11:25 PM12/23/09 11:25 PM [...]... forces and reunification of Vietnam in 1975 Many Chinese in Vietnam fled, joining the deluge of Vietnamese “boat people” escaping persecution Today ethnic tensions in Vietnam are limited to the majority government, with its fear of and disputes with ethnic minority people in the Central Highlands and the far north Only recently, a contingent of refugees fleeing persecution in Laos— Vietnam s cousin in paranoia... the Vietnamese language and chapter 17 for an overview on Vietnamese cuisine 1 WHO ARE THE VIETNAMESE? Over 90% of Vietnamese people are Viet, or Kinh, people, descendants of the indigenous race, but with the many violent and migratory incursions over the centuries, as well as the southward expansion of Vietnamese territory into Cambodia, modern Vietnamese are a combination of many races and cultural...1 The Best of Vietnam Vietnam offers adventures and curiosities around every corner Be ready for a wild ride in a colorful and chaotic land—along the way, you’ll discover tranquil places and opportunities to connect with local people Below is the best Vietnam has to offer, from fine dining to off-the-beaten-track oddities 1 THE BEST VIETNAM EXPERIENCES • Eat on the Street: “Real” Vietnamese food... worshipers in Vietnam, predominantly in the south, and their very colorful Holy See near Tay Ninh is a popular day trip from Ho Chi Minh City A small percentage of Vietnamese, mostly the Cham people living along the coast in central Vietnam, follow the tenets of Islam VIETNAM IN DEPTH Religion in Vietnam influences every aspect of daily living but is loosely practiced at a temple Over 75% of Vietnamese... the Viet Minh were relentless, engaging a vicious trench ground war—Vietnamese proudly declare that the siege of Dien Bien Phu was won not by bullets and bombs, but with Vietnamese resolve and the shovel The battle lasted 25 days, with Viet Minh troops winning by inches, but with heavy casualties on both sides Brave French and South Vietnamese paratroopers dropped into the battle site in the 11th hour... China Sea’s deadly pirates Faced with disaster, the Vietnamese government began implementing the new ideas of Doi Moi, a free-market policy that decentralized business, allowing private citizens and farmers to own land and the Vietnamese currency to trade on international markets To ingratiate itself with the international community in the hope of aid and trade, Vietnam withdrew its army from Cambodia... Marxism Vietnamese history can be broken into six distinct eras: 1) prehistory up until the first of the vaunted Hung Kings (like the British legends of Arthur); 2) the Chinese millennium from 189 b.c to a.d 939; 3) 1,000 years of Vietnamese autonomy and wars with the Khmer and the Cham to the south, as well as ongoing border scraps with China until the late 19th century; 4) colonization of Vietnam, ... Although Ngo Quyen died and Vietnam fell into a prolonged civil war under the Ngo dynasty, Vietnam was finally free of China In 968 b.c., Dinh Bo Linh pacified, unified, and made extensive treaties to keep Vietnam a fully autonomous Chinese vassal state So began the ascendancy of Vietnam s mandarins, a high caste of intelligentsia who created special schools for promising Vietnamese to be groomed into... still visible today in Vietnam s Confucian traditions, architecture, and even today’s pell-mell thrust toward a market economy Vietnam s long period of autonomy was not without peril, however, as incursions from the Cham in what is now central Vietnam and the Khmer in the far south put pressure on the burgeoning united state The kingdom flourished and strengthened, enough for the Vietnamese to repel the... Vietnamese war with the U.S., Hoa Lo Prison is now a small museum (most of it was demolished for a high-rise) A good glimpse into Vietnam s grisly past See p 111 • Reunification Palace: In 1975 tanks rolled over the gates of the prime minister’s palace, signaling an end to the Vietnam War You can see the actual tanks on-site See p 322 3 4 THE BEST MUSEUMS 5 T H E B E S T B E AC H E S • Nha Trang: Vietnam s . • Insider tips from local expert authors 3rd Edition 3rd Edition Vietnam with Angkor Wat Vietnam with Angkor Wat To call Vietnam from the United States: Dial the international access code. Nguyen Hanoi Angkor Wat Siem Reap Batdambang Phnom Penh Can Tho Tan An Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Dalat Nha Trang Quy Nhon Quang Ngai Danang Hue Vinh Sapa Thai Nguyen Hanoi Angkor Wat VIETNAM and. . . . . . . . . . .6 2 VIETNAM IN DEPTH 7 1 Who Are the Vietnamese?. . . . . . . . . .7 2 Vietnamese Religion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 3 A Look at the Past: Vietnam the Country, Not