Bài tập cuối môn thành phố thông minh, chương trình đào tạo thạc sỹ quốc tế về thiết kế tương tác và cải tiến, chủ đề nghiên cứu thái độ của gen Z đối với thời trang bền vững. Ngôn ngữ tài liệu: Tiếng Anh. Tài liệu được trình bày theo hình thức của báo IEEE. Phù hợp cho các bạn sinh viên muốn tìm hiểu về nghiên cứu khoa học, cách trình bày một bài báo khoa học, tìm chủ đề nghiên cứu liên quan tới thành phố thông minh.
Evaluate Generation Z Attitude Towards Sustainable Fashion in Smart City- A Case Study of Taiwan Design Expo Dang My Linh - 111AT8403 Department of Interaction Design, National Taipei University of Technology, Taipei, Taiwan Mylinh2311vn@gmail.com Abstract—The fashion industry nowadays has been through a booming period, bringing huge benefits to the global economy, but also raising side effects on the environment, and people quality of life Sustainable fashion, therefore, is growing as a response to deal with these issues This research utilizes the 2022 Taiwan Design Expo, taken place in Kaohsiung, a smart city in Taiwan, as the case study to investigate one aspect of sustainable fashion – customers’ view The Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) method is applied to examine the attitude of generation Z towards sustainable fashion in order to find the solutions for promoting sustainability With a focus on Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 12, Responsible Production and Consumption, the study considers eight elements under the three dimensions of sustainability (Environmental, Social, Economic), and ranks their influence on the decision of generation Z to pursue green fashion The results of this study contribute to identify the gaps between fashion customers’ sustainable perception and their actions, and may contribute to the government, design curators, and environmentalists to convey a sustainability message Keywords—Sustainable Fashion Awareness, Smart City Exhibition, SDG 12, Sustainability, Generation Z in Smart City, Generation Z’s View I Introduction Smart cities around the world are developing with sustainability in mind Whether it is buildings, vehicles, roads, or technology, sustainability is gradually taking the central position In 2015, the United Nations adopted 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) aiming for laying a solid foundation by 2030 for achieving long-term sustainable development Among them, SGD 12, which represents responsible production and consumption, has recently been studied in terms of waste and energy management (Lemaire & Limbourg, 2019), circular economy (Schroeder et al., 2019), tourism (Boluk et al., 2019), corporate social responsibility (ElAlfy et al., 2020), sustainable development, education, climate change, and gender (Blasi et al., 2022) When it comes to smart cities and SDG 12, research tends to mention the adoption of smart technologies to support sustainability For example, in the work of Kang et al (2020), it provides interesting insights into the applicability of smart systems for managing citizen ewaste that could be used by the Office of the Environment and other governmental and non- governmental bodies to streamline their processes However, research of Blasi et al (2022) using keyword and paper analysis methods, also showed that there have been a few studies to converge between smart cities and SDGs This brings the opportunities to future research exploring connection between them This research tries to aim at one aspect of SDG 12 – sustainable fashion in smart city with the focus on generation Z The 2022 Taiwan Design Expo, one of the Taiwan's most significant annual design exhibitions, will be taken as a scenario for the study Generation Z is living in an era of technology evolution They have an eight-second attention threshold in which they can decide what is interesting and what is not for them Generation Z is now entering the labor market and will radically change the way of doing business, both as regards the approach to work and as consumers (Gazzola et al., 2020) Therefore, this generation will play a majority role in sustainable activities The objective of this study, therefore, is to assess to what extent generation Z perceive sustainable fashion after they participated in a smart city exhibition; thereby, identifying the effectiveness of promoting sustainability methods, and the consistence between perception of sustainability and actions for sustainability The results could be of interest to design curators and scholars aiming to further contribute to the development of smarter and more sustainable cities II Research Proposal Structure Regarding sustainable fashion, since previous studies pay more attention on customers’ behavior, the heterogeneity between customers’ awareness and customers’ behavior of buying sustainable products, sustainable fashion effect on environment, economy, and society, and sustainable fashion on the commercial side, there is little research comparing customer’s attitude modification towards a sustainable fashion message, especially in case of design exhibitions Mainly focused on SDG 12 - responsible consumption and production, our research seeks to evaluate the effectiveness of a smart city exhibition on conveying sustainable fashion, with the target audiences are generation Z tourists, one of the main participants in Taiwan Design Expo Three research questions are raised as follows: RQ 1: To what extent a generation Z person aware of sustainable fashion when joining a smart city exhibition? RQ 2: Is a generation Z person willing to support sustainable fashion after joining the exhibition? RQ 3: Which factors a generation Z person consider the most if they pursue sustainable fashion? FIG RESEARCH PROPOSAL STRUCTURE III Literature Review A The Relationship between Sustainable Fashion and Smart City Development Sustainable fashion and smart cities are two concepts that are increasingly being discussed and implemented in the modern world Both focus on the use of resources in a more efficient and environmentally friendly way “Sustainable fashion is part of the slow fashion movement, developed over the past decades, and used interchangeably with eco-, green-, and ethical-fashion” (Henninger et al., 2016) This terminology contrasts with fast fashion, which refers to the production of inexpensive, trendy clothing that designed to be sold quickly to respond to the most current trends To quickly meet the customers ‘needs, fast fashion is generally produced in large quantities, using lowerquality materials (synthetic fibres made of fossil fuels) and labor, and is often criticized for its environmental and ethical impacts According to Lee et al (2020) and Woodside & Fine (2019), at least 8000 chemicals are used to turn raw materials into textiles 20,000 liters of water are consumed in growing one kilogram of cotton, the main material of textile production Also, the cotton growth process uses 16 percent of all the pesticides worldwide and emits almost percent of global CO2 (Lee et al., 2020) On the other hand, sustainable fashion refers to the production and consumption of clothing and accessories in a way that is environmentally friendly and socially responsible This includes the use of ecofriendly materials (organic cotton, recycled polyester, plant-based fibers), as well as ethical labor practices and reduced waste in the production process Sustainable fashion directly relates to sustainable development goal 12 (SDG 12), which encourages more sustainable consumption and production patterns through various measurements, including specific policies and international agreements on the management of materials that are toxic to the environment Since using vast amounts of natural resources, such as water, oil, and land throughout their entire lifecycle, from production of fibers, manufacturing, distribution, consumer use (all that washing, drying, ironing and dry cleaning) to the clothes' end-of-life at disposal, the fashion industry is the one of the largest polluters of the environment (de Oliveira et al., 2022; Kozlowski et al., 2012) Sustainable fashion products made of natural, renewable, and recycled materials, as well as processed by eco-friendly methods, such as waterless dyeing, can be recycled, upcycled, shared, rented, or obtained from thrift shops Therefore, sustainable fashion can reduce the waste in fashion industry (Pandey et al., 2020), and contribute to the implementation of SDG 12 When it comes to the relationship between smart city and sustainable fashion, the connection between smart city and SDG 12 should be discussed, since SDG 12 covers sustainable fashion The concept of smart city has goals to be achieved in an adaptable, reliable, scalable, accessible, and resilient way, for example, environmental responsibility, sustainable approach to development, climate change and environmental issues addressing ability, as well as citizens’ life quality improvement (Dhingra & Chattopadhyay, 2016; Trindade et al., 2017) These share the similar purposes with SDG 12 Moreover, a smart city can use technology to support sustainable development goals in various ways, such as, using applications to solve environmental problems (Angelidou et al., 2018) To conclude, smart city can apply its technology to support SDG 12, for more details, to support sustainable fashion, while sustainable fashion can help smart city achieve its purpose – the wellness of human being (Negri et al., 2019) B Recent Concerns Relate to Sustainable Fashion Though sustainable fashion has positive impacts on environment, which results in better life quality, there have been existing several concerns relating to other aspects Firstly, in terms of customers’ perception, de Oliveira et al (2022) implemented a survey and statistical test to compare customers’ perception regarding sustainability practices Notably, the answers showed that customers in general not have knowledge about the sustainability practices adopted by the companies Additionally, fashion customers are not willing to pay more for a greener product, even though they express their concern about the environment The “attitude – behavior gap” is also supported by many researchers (Han et al., 2017; Lee et al., 2020; White et al., 2019) This raises a challenge to practitioners to motivate not only customers’ awareness, but also their willing to engage with sustainable fashion Secondly, during the Covid-19 pandemic, consumers substantially reduced their spending, quickly identifying clothes, shoes, and fashion accessories as a ‘non-essential’ category of consumer goods (Arora et al., 2020; Vladimirova et al., 2022) There have been several studies showing positive signs of consumers being more interested in sustainable practices For example, customers tend to select minimalism clothes, and are willing to pay for sustainably produced garments more than previously (Granskog et al., 2020) However, it remains uncertain whether this modification will continue after the world recovering or not Thirdly, the economic effect on businesses, one of the three dimensions of sustainability (environmental, social, and economic) (Lee et al., 2020) should be mentioned in terms of sustainable practices There are only a finite number of “good” ways to keep a company profitable while still reducing its carbon footprint and its impact on the climate; sustainability is one of them Six out of every ten organizations that transition to a more sustainable business model now say that it has led to improved financial results (Orỵndaru et al., 2021) In the scope of fashion industry, the transition to sustainability may involve upfront costs, such as investing in new technologies, or changing production processes This may lead to higher prices for consumers in the short term Additionally, the demand for sustainable fashion depends on customers personally, which could limit the economic impact of sustainable practices Therefore, the sustainability tripod, known as the balance between economic, social, and environmental aspects, is still a challenge for the companies C Methods to Convey Sustainable Fashion Messages Due to the interpretation of sustainable fashion is context and person dependent (Henninger et al., 2016), practitioners, including governments, businesses, environmentalists, have utilized diverse solutions to promote sustainable fashion Some companies use product labels, tags, or packaging to convey information about the sustainability of their fashion products This can include using certifications or seals of approval that indicate a product has been produced in an environmentally or socially responsible way Lee et al (2020) used a methodology of neuroimaging employing functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) to investigate the brain’s responses to a green logo that represents organically grown textiles that are environment-friendly They found that people who devote their cortical resources to processing a green logo may monitor their cognitive control to facilitate building a preference for green products and later move a step closer to choosing green products Social media, another popular method, is often used by brands to interact with customers Kong et al (2021) designed an experiment in Germany and South Korea to compare the effectiveness of advertising content on social media across cultural, economic, environmental, and social sustainability dimensions The results showed unequal effect between two nations While German consumers were raised higher awareness of sustainability via brand posts in both non-luxury and luxury brands, South Koreans are less aware of sustainability These results are consistent with the opinion that consumers from developed countries have greater appreciation for sustainability and are more willing to pay premium prices for green products in comparison with consumers from less developed countries (Minton et al., 2012) Brands can also work with influencers in the fashion industry with the aim of sharing information about the brands and sustainable products with their followers Influencers are perceived as near to the common people because they are not models and are not forced to make a campaign, but wear what they like and what fits well on their body They also show their outfits during a common day in common situations (Gazzola et al., 2020; Jin et al., 2019) Influencers constitute an important promotional tool due to their trend-setting ability and influence on consumption (Berne-Manero & Marzo-Navarro, 2020) Beside these aforementioned methods, additional promoting ways can be listed, including pop-up events and trunk shows to showcase sustainable collections and educate customers about the environmental and social benefits of their products For instance, a Balenciaga show taken place at Paris Fashion Week in 2022 warned the audiences of climate change (Remsen, 2022) H&M’s in-store display to encourage consumers “Be a fashion recycler” (Lascity & Cairns, 2020), and UNIQLO’s educational campaign “Join: The Power of Clothing” (Pham, 2022), are particular case studies of in-store displays and signage and educational content methods that brands utilize to communicate with customers about sustainable fashion D The Case Study of Taiwan Design Expo Established in 2003, Taiwan Design Expo has become one of the largest large-scale design exhibitions in Taiwan every year In 2022, Kaohsiung, one of the oldest cities in Taiwan, was chosen as the destination of this expo This city not only serves as a strategic position in Taiwan’s geographical map, but it is also well-known for its smart city vision Kaohsiung applies 5G AIoT applications on digital governance and digital transformation in public and private sector, with the aim to make a good living and in contentment to their citizens The 2022 Taiwan Design Expo recorded million people gathered in Kaohsiung, including local citizens, tourists, students, designers, and others (designexpo, n.d.) 10 main themes were exhibited during the exhibition period Also, the youthful vitality of the new generation was focused on Specifically, the main visual of this year is designed by the youngest design team in history, and the coding technology processing is used to create the "most trendy" theme It is also the first high school students to be invited to participate in the exhibition, allowing people to see the vigorous creativity of the young generation This denotes the youth roles in the future of a city Sustainability messages were integrated into the exhibition to convey the sustainable future of a city They are about sustainable fashion, along with daily food, housing, transportation, and recreation Product life cycle thinking, new business models, textiles, architecture, transportation, and sustainable life were introduced in aesthetic ways, showing the potential change, as well as the wonder insides each audience about which kind of world he/she want to live in As to confirm the determination about the green future, the 2022 Taiwan Design Expo’s curators confirmed that every exhibition material will be reused for another purpose However, transforming the world cannot be implemented by some groups The question raised after the exhibition is to what extent the participants are influenced and willing to support green living Digging into one of the sustainability’s aspects, this study focuses on sustainable fashion, which has been a persistent issue all over the world H1: A smart city exhibition can help generation Z raise higher awareness of sustainable fashion H2: Environmental will be the most crucial factor that motivate generation Z to pursue sustainable fashion A Research Process This study aims at investigating the attitude of generation Z tourists towards sustainable fashion and their opinions about it after joining a smart city exposition To achieve this objective, the research framework of this study is divided into parts, as shown in Figure.1 A quantitative Analytic Hierarchical Process (AHP) is proposed to determine priorities among three dimensions of sustainable development systematically This technique was adapted from (Görener et al., 2012) FIG PIC A SUSTAINABLE FASHION BOOTH AT TAIWAN DESIGN EXPO IV Research Design and Methods The target audiences of this research are people at generation Z Their sustainable fashion awareness will be assessed based on the three dimensions of sustainability This triple bottom line includes environmental, social, and economic dimension, which is recognized and utilized in many studies (Kim, 2018; Lee et al., 2020; Rajeev et al., 2017; Strezov et al., 2017) This paper review academic papers and practical experience to identify key criteria of sustainable fashion relating to environmental, social, economic dimension, after which, AHP method will be used to compare the importance among them As the result, the following hypotheses would be explained: RESEARCH PROCESS B AHP diagram The focus of this research is the first layer of the hierarchy The second layer consists of the Environmental, Social, and Economic dimension, which denote the link amongst climate change, economic development, and global goals that should be implemented to achieve sustainable development (Brundtland, 1987) Previous research has applied this framework to facilitate their innovation of sustainable fashion design tools (Kozlowski et al., 2012) The third layer comprises eight sustainable fashion criteria which has been taken from academic review Table shows the criteria regarding the three dimensions of sustainability, which will be utilized in this paper TABLE I SUSTAINABLE FASHION CRITERIA Dimension Criteria References Environmental Recycled products/packaging (Ciasullo et al., 2017), (Wong et al., 2012), and (Wang et al., 2019) Waste/Energy reducing New technology/Design product Social Charitable contributions Corporate reputation (Niinimaki, 2010), (Knox & Maklan, 2004), and (Wang et al., 2019) Employee training (behavior, communication, attitude, support) Economic Marketing strategy (price, quality, promotion) Operation management FIG (Chan & Wong, 2012), and (Wang et al., 2019) AHP DIAGRAM C Survey The survey link can be found here After the criteria identification, each criterion will be transformed into a measurable value The Saaty’s 9-point scale of relative importance will be used to evaluate each criterion (Saaty, 2004) TABLE II SAATY’S 9-POINT SCALE OF RELATIVE IMPRTANCE technology/design product, charitable contributions, corporate reputation, employee training, marketing strategy, and operation management There are two results that are expected to clarify in this research Firstly, amongst Environmental, Social, and Economic, identifying factors that generation Z weigh the most regarding sustainable fashion By comparing these factors with the methods and messages that were exhibited in the 2022 Taiwan Design Expo, it can conclude whether the exposition’s design successfully targeted and was consistent with the participants’ thoughts of sustainable fashion Secondly, amongst the eight surveyed elements, clarifying which ones are assessed more importantly by generation Z, which can motivate them to transit from fashion habits that harm the environment to sustainable fashion The practitioners can base on this result to design services that are appropriate with generation Z’s opinions to encourage them using green products Other elements that are weighed lower should be considered as well for a holistic solution B Contribution Since the convergence between smart cities and SDGs literature is still in its infancy (Blasi et al., 2022), this research contributes to the connection between smart city and one of the SDGs, SDG number 12 Moreover, this research approaches two terminologies in a practical case study, which can broaden directions for stakeholders designing services with the aim at improving citizen life Besides, this study just focuses on one issue of SDG 12 – fashion industry under the perspective of individuals – the fashion customers, who are at generation Z Future studies can widen the target audiences, since sustainability involves the collaboration with local stakeholders, citizen participation, private actors, non-governmental organizations, and government (Blasi et al., 2022) Also, another industry relating to SDG 12, for example food, supply chain, or logistics industry can be a potential topic to interested in C Implementation Plan Subsequently, the matrix-structured survey based on Saaty’s 9-point scale will be sent to participants who were born from 1996 to 2012 (generation Z) (Gazzola et al., 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