Reasons to choose the study matter
Ao Dai is one of the image that many people have not been to Vietnam, but they only see the Ao Dai, they can think of Vietnam Since economic reforms, many Countries in the world in the process of establishing diplomatic relationships with Vietnam, have attempted to learn about Vietnam's culture Therefore, concerns about Ao Dai has been gradually improved However, there exists a fact that the study of Ao Dai still is limited These available data are not the theory that only describe meanings of origin, name, or explain basically outside levels, and add to feelings and subjective judgments of the author Moreover, this content has not been corrected by a synthetic way From there, I found that the start of analyzing and correcting the study of Ao Dai is more urgent Therefore, this study will be help for those who want to learn a comprehensive and in-depth way about Ao Dai, as well as people see firstly or want to have more information about Ao Dai.
Study purpose and meaning
The purpose of this study is to analyse Ao Dai – Vietnamese symbol - systematically and comprehensively
Most previous studies on Ao Dai were only a primary topic when introducing to Vietnam, There is no any professional and systematic study Even contents about
Ao Dai were also very poor, most reviews and the author's subjective thoughts, or a brief introduction to the origin, the meaning of name or describing the appearance of Ao Dai Learning from previous studies, this study develops not only introduction about Ao Dai, but also consider the change of history since Ao Dai appeared firstly in Vietnam until the new style appears as we know today Moreover, the article also distinguishes kinds of Ao Dai, then analyzing features, beauty and role of each kind
This research was done in the hope of replacing the previous incomplete studies about Ao Dai a symbol of Vietnam After the renovation in 1986, Vietnam's Government has used Ao Dai as a mean of promoting the image of the country, but the fact can be denied that documents about Ao Dai is limited, only briefly recorded in the history books, not have a professional study
In the reform period, western culture was introduced in Vietnam, but like the majority of Southeast Asian countries, due to the impact of the introduction of the momentum, the lack of selectivity traditional costumes of each country, each country does not inherit intact identities Until now, traditional costumes are not as daily costumes, it only was worn in big events or holidays I myself hope that Ao Dai will dominate its position in the future, it is clothes to wear every day, and not merely an uniform as today
This study is the summary of all previous short and incomprehensive studies on
Ao Dai Accordingly, it can be said that this study will be a precious source for people who want to understand deeply and comprehensively about Ao Dai – Vietnamese cultural symbol When considering carefully previous studies, it is obvious that most of them only simply notes about Ao Dai’s appearance, meaning of the name or origin, and in many cases, reflect the subjective thoughts/assessments of the author only In fact, there has not been any comprehensive study in this regard Therefore, by summarizing the previous studies, this study is expected to become a more reliable and accurate document
Many people know Ao Dai as the traditional costume of Vietnam, Vietnam went through the long war, economic and social circumstances become difficult, damaged, humans' perception of the value of studying traditional costumes are not high because of feelings when conducting study Most people see it as a costume, they do not realize that it is necessary to have a systematic study But elements making our lives: clothes is an important part, especially traditional costumes are a symbol, representing for a country, in terms of domestic policies to improve a national pride, in terms of foreign policies as a mean to promote a national image
Through these points, the value of this study is relatively large
In particular, by analyzing in depth Vietnamese costume culture based on the available documents on Ao Dai, the study expects to become a tool to grasp the modernization trend of traditional culture, as well as the potential of Vietnamese culture through types of Ao Dai, in the process of Vietnamese society modernization
At the same time, this article would like to become useful material for researchers learn about Ao dai.
Review of previous studies on Ao Dai
Specificness of the previous studies
Ao Dai known to the world for the first time through the war against the United States of America, and spread images more widely after the Doi Moi policy in its role as a symbol of Vietnam With special charms that no other types of costumes having, Ao Dai received a lot of attention of world fashion However, so far there is no study which corresponds to the value of Ao Dai Instead of studying profession, these current studies of both Vietnam and foreign countries were only a brief and sketchy notes, they are not any literary and artistic value, these studies did not base on materials of history, which were mainly subjective assessment, the author's personal about Ao Dai Because of lacking of expertise in the study is understandable Some foreign material is simply translated from Vietnam's materials, many cases of conveying false information due to errors in the translation process Materials are low, repeating in the process of synthesizing or excerpting from available documents to make contents similar to each other Probably in the last time, Ao Dai’s studied, investigated by foreign researchers more than Vietnam, showed that the capacity of self-advocacy research in Vietnam is poor
In the study process, I have tried to access to materials in the United States or France, but most of them was recorded by subjective nature, just described Ao Dai when seeing or perceiving that moment On the other hand, the absence of images such as photographs, photos attached; therefore, the inference of new Ao Dai from these documents is a difficult thing to do
Existing problems of previous studies
This section will analysis in four key points as follows: Firstly, Studying Ao Dai in Vietnam; Secondly, studying Ao Dai in Foreign Countries; Thirdly, studying Ao Dai with a historical perspective, women and costumes of Vietnam; Fourthly, studying of the appearance of new Ao dai under the action of time in the 1920s, 1930s and the influence of modern Chinese costumes
Firstly, studying Ao Dai is done in Vietnam; most studies do not take Ao Dai as the main theme, which is just a cursory and brief introduction, Ao Dai as a minor theme in the article about Vietnam's costumes The article took Ao Dai as the main theme, also at the level of translating works of foreign authors into Vietnamese or pictures of Ao Dai
"Ao dai women's Long Dress"(2011) 1 is a 98 page booklet, which includes 17 large and small topics, such as: meaning of Ao Dai and describing the shape of Ao Dai, the development process, current Ao Dai, Ao Dai for women, oldest shop in Hanoi, the village making silk, thoughts of Ao Dai for people living in the USA because of having too many sub-themes, the book went against the intended purpose, rambling contents, only introducing monotonous, much more personal criticism The book can bring for people's feeling who contact firstly Ao Dai: "Well, This is Ao dai." To help Foreigners contact firstly with Ao Dai can understand
1 Lady Borton, Huu Ngoc, "Ao dai women's Long Dress", (World Publisher, 2011) easily the meaning of Ao Dai in the last part of the book with the translation into English of the name of Ao Dai In general, this is the record, comment on Ao Dai under foreigner's perspective, the book's audience as foreigners
"Vietnam Costume" 2 is the book to analyze, arrange Vietnam's clothes in each period, describing costumes of everyone, the young and old, all kinds of hats, accessories, jewelry, shoes, hair the author was too greedy to want to explain, to list all the things together with long history clothes of Vietnam in a book Therefore, an explanation has no depth However, unlike many documents describing Ao Dai by words, this book also attach images to help readers better understand the shape of costumes But attaching photos that are not a real image as the shape of shoes, hats making it difficult to imagine the real shape because of the lack of precision of photos If the book classifies images of Ao Dai of each period or each type can understand easier
"Food Culture and traditional costumes of Vietnamese" 3 is an essay published in a book This book includes two main topics: food and clothing; contents related to costumes, explained by each division and in each period, but there is no picture attached, it is difficult to understand and imagine In particular, the part related to jewelry accessories accompanying drawings, not have actual images; is clearly divided into many obvious topics such as: hat, scarf, shoes, jewelry but the explanation is still monotonous, scattered In addition to, these issues, as the above mentioned book, due to covering many contents as: Foods and costumes in normal days, anniversaries, anniversary worship, marriage technical textiles, color and costume jewelry lead to counter-productive, contents do not have depth On the basis of this book, if it is studied by an intensive way, if will have a great value in studying about Ao Dai
2 Doan Thi Tinh, "Vietnam's Costume (Vietnamese people), second edition and adds," (Arts Publisher, 2006)
3 Text of Training the Bachelor, "food culture and traditional costumes of the Vietnamese", (Vietnam National University, Ha Noi Publisher 2006)
In addition, the "Outstanding Vietnam women before the 20th century" 4 wrote famous women in the history of Vietnam before 1884 Ao Dai for both men and women, but people only think that it is as property costumes of women This book introduces traditional Ao Dai worn by Hai Ba Trung when battling with Han Dynasty
Secondly, materials of Ao Dai studied at foreign countries, they are notes explaining the meaning of Ao Dai, describing appearance, a brief of Ao Dai
Among them, there are also materials written in a foreign language by the Vietnamese
"Ao Dai and La Hat, symbols of the Vietnamese" 5 writing about Ao Dai be divided into three main points: Ao Dai in normal days, holidays, jewelry and accessories The book explains, describes types, features, appearance, and accessories of costumes through poetry and Vietnam traditional folk song At a whole view, contents of costumes are poor, especially for the jewelry for the absence of illustrations, it is difficult to understand
"Vietnam and Vietnamese" 6 explains, classifies types of costume by northern and southern regions, and alternates proverb related these costumes However, the book explains by one diverse way, issues such as appearance, color, features, history, dresses, and alternates additional explanations such as proverbs, poetry makes ramble contents
"People and culture in Southeast Asia" 7 writes much about Ao Dai; including, a brief explanation of the history and meaning of Ao Dai, color of Ao Dai to each location, status in society, who wear, when to wear, the first personal impression
4 World, "Outstanding Vietnam women before the 20th century", (World Publisher , 2006)
5 Tran Ngoc Them "Ao Dai and La Hat - symbols of Vietnam", (Korean Vietnamese Association Publisher , 2000)
6 Vu Xuan Thuy, "the actual report on Vietnam and Vietnamese of Vietnam's journalists", ( Dae Won Sa Publisher , 2002)
7 Kim Hong Gu, "The people and culture of Southeast Asia", (Busan University of Foreign Language Publisher , 2001) about Ao Dai However, apart from above mentioned contents, other contents are not special The "Society and Southeast Asian culture" 8 only translated into Korean of the daily life of Vietnamese from his Vietnam's customs 9 with most stories of modern society It is limited to mention Ao Dai that are not use regularly
Thirdly, "The New History of Vietnam" 10 was written in 1999 the book help readers capture the history of Ao Dai from through changes in the history of Vietnam from prehistoric to present time There is also "The exchanges between Korea and Southeast Asia," 11 is the book describing in detailed approaches and exchanges between Vietnam and Korea from the 15th to the 17th century In "The Culture of Korea and the Silk Road" 12 mentions the story of the Vietnamese wandering in Jeju Island , people of Jeju Island wandering in Vietnam about 15 ~
"Confucius problem of with Vietnam traditional social & Vietnam historical research" 13 emphasized a practice that the lack of researchers learns about Vietnam, the training of expert studying of Vietnam is a urgent matter "Understanding about Vietnam" 14 This document edited from the document of Vietnam and foreign about wars and women's roles in each period "Viet Nam family rules & social behavior of people of Vietnam" 15 written rules in family in the north and south of Vietnam In addition, "Vietnam's cultural identity in transition period" 16 analyzed historical experience of Vietnam, consider the introduction and cultural influence of the West
8 Jeong Young Gyu, "Society and Culture in Southeast Asia", (Yulgok Publisher , 2003)
9 Phan Ke Binh, "Vietnam's customs" (Ho ChiMinh Publisher , 1992)
10 In Seon Yu, "A New History of Vietnam", Yee San Publisher , 2002)
11 Hung Kuk, "The Korean exchanges with Southeast Asia", (Sonamu Publisher , 2009)
12 International Association of Korea, "Cultural Korean and Silk Road", (Sonamu Publisher , 1999)
13 Yu In Seon, "Confucius problem with Vietnamese traditional social and historical studies of Vietnam", (Eastern historian Association Publisher , 1995)
14 Bae Yang Su, "Understanding about Vietnam", (the Busan University of Foreign Language Publisher , 1999)
15 Ha Sun, " Viet Nam family's rules & social behavior of Vietnamese people", (Pusan University of Foreign Studies Publisher , 1994)
Study method
This study is the analysis and classification of a synthetic and selective way basing on materials all kinds of Vietnam's costumes with "Ao"
This study was carried out on the basis of finding in-depth of culture, ideology, history, documents about the cultural costume of Vietnam, as well as photos
Above mentioned documents, continuing to find short documents describing Ao Dai, the subject material on women, history, clothing, wars of Southeast Asia related to Ao Dai
For the Vietnam's document divided into sections: Documents about Ao Dai and costume history of Vietnam, Vietnam's history, women, wars in Vietnam, the image ofAo Dai abroad For information about costumes of China and Korea, through documents to find information about the shape and history of Qi Pao and Hanbok from the start of the exchange of each country with Vietnam, sorting change history of clothes of each country to compare with changing of Vietnam's Ao Dai In addition, the Article also studied the shape and type of costume, the process of historical change and European clothing, fashion trends around 1920, 30 and 1960
70, Ao Dai re-developed and coped with new challenges; research key processes of changing clothes due to the influence of Western culture with traditional costumes.
Study structure
Vietnamese cultural costume
1.1.1 Origin of Vietnamese cultural costume
Many materials on archeology, linguistics, ethnography have shown that tens of thousands of years ago, there were those who originally lived on the land in the territory of Vietnam Many artifacts of stone, ceramic, brass showed the mark of weaving techniques, weaving tools and objects, drawn, carved, along with a costume This shows that Vietnam's costume has a long history
In fact, Giao Chi People has woven fabric of jute, hemp and banana silk to create beautiful, cool, lightweight fabric so that they are suitable with tropical climate
South Books wrote: "They took the banana silk woven into two fabrics" hy "and" khich ", are Giao Chi to AD period, Lac Viet people knew to plan strawberries, raise silkworms Especially, in the Red river delta fed by the fertile alluvium, which has had a big mulberry, cotton, jute, hemp, banana development, creating rich and diverse areas of textile materials for weaving development This is the main cause, forming the variety of fabrics and costume development history of the region
Costumes of the most ancient of Vietnam have appeared since the Hung Vuong through the carvings on the Dong Son drums 30 excavated in areas such as: Ngoc Lu
(5000 BC Tay Lich), Hoa Binh, Hoang Ha
Hung Vuong in usual activities, women had short shirts, tight skirts, dresses with the buffer short skirts, brackets, belt with tassels hanging people wear these types of dresses with feathers, leaves, hats with feathers and all kinds of jewelry such as
30 Drums was a very unique bronze percussion instruments of the Southeast Asia, appears from Bronze Age, "in line", http://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tr% E1% BB% 91ng_% C4% 91% E1%
BB% 93ng earrings, necklaces, bracelets, anklets, rings etc in different materials such as stone , copper, bone, shells in the festival 31
Furthermore, through the picture painted in the north of the relics was considered to be 3000 years ago, we can recognize the dress of the people at that time, according to the conjecture that shape is Loin- cloth, a men's clothing Scholars of history, culture, culture of clothes have started from the period of ancient civilization Van Lang, the first State of the ancient Vietnamese (in 287 BC ~ 258 BC)
From Ao Tu Than associated with the operation of Hai Ba Trung According to the history of Vietnam, Hai Ba Trung is the common name of two sisters: Trung Trac and Trung Nhi, a legendary hero of Vietnam, was the head of the large-scale campaign against the domination of the Chinese military 38 ~ 42 BC, Hai Ba Trung rode elephant and worn clothes that have 2 separate flap going battle with invaders, it can be surmised that this type was the source Vietnam traditional costume
31 Doan Thi Tinh, " Thang Long costumes-Hanoi", (Hanoi Publisher ), page.20,21
Thus, the period costumes of Vietnamese people have relatively completed from dresses to jewelry, fabrics and color with diversities
In 1000 years of Chinese feudalism of the North have tried to assimilate Vietnamese people by sinister policies from language, literacy, culture, costumes,
That's why almost during the first 10 centuries AD, notes on clothing as well as the development of Vietnam's costumes extremely were rare
After the victory of Ngo Quyen on the glorious Bach Dang River (938) ended in
1000 in North of Vietnam and began the era of independence with new policies to develop the country In 939, Ngo Quyen set titles, regulations, royal ceremonies and colors and costumes for mandarins all levels These dynasties had more specific rules about costumes of kings, mandarins, soldiers, and civilians with clothing, colors, jewelry and various accessories In each period, each dynasty, costumes had certain changes and a special for development and the uniqueness of Vietnam's costumes
1.1.2 Classification and specificness of the first Vietnamese costumes
Cultural Vietnam's costumes in the early period were not clearly written, but we can judge through photos on the antique copper excavated in the Dong Son, the village was considered to be the root source of background culture of Vietnam green field 32 At this time, men used Loin- cloth, was the oldest ancient costumes of mankind, a long piece of cloth to hide the perinea area by taking wrapped round the waist, the end Loin- cloth released on the front or back This costume is cool, appropriate with tropical climate; everyone can wear, regardless of deviation between the rich and the poor, high-low rights [PHOTO 1.3]
32 Pierre Huard, Maurice Durand, "Understanding Vietnam", (Social Science Publisher, 1993)
Women worn dresses, the top cloth covered the chest called Ao Yem Ao Yem is a diamond or square having a rope on the neck and tie to the back, Yem functions depending on the person
Ao Yem can wear inside or outside, it's not only the long history shirt in the ancient traditional dress of women in northern of Viet Nam, but also are popular costumes appearing throughout Southeast Asia
In 11 ~ 13 century under Ly Dynasty, Ao Yem began forming typical shapes, it was worn by all Vietnam women at all levels of social classes, from supper to lower classes Ao Yem had a square cross the chest, two pieces of wire to tie the back of the neck, if the neck cut round called Yem Co Xay the sharp V-shaped neck called Yem Co Xe, bottom V that will deep down called Yem Co Canh
Color and type of Yem performed about the age and class of woman wearing it
Typically, urban women often wear improved designs, with elegant colors such as: white, lotus, or red; farm laborers wearing brown Yem, ground color to match the simplicity of the village; Women in factories such as garment factory worn brown Yem
Lunar New Year, in cities as well as rural areas, all people were off work and worn Ao Yem Ao yem has been a popular shirt called a national dress of that time, all the Vietnamese girls enjoyed wearing it in festivals or rituals holidays Entering the 20th century, Ao Yem has gradually been replaced by the introduction of Western-style lingerie form; currently, Ao yem found in advertisements or documents Vietnam's ancient [PHOTO 1.4]
Previously, fabric of Loin- cloth and Ao Yem mainly woven from hemp or silk of banana split banana trunk, when cotton and silk became common in Vietnam; they also use this material to sew
Photos of Loin- cloth and Flaps were also detected in foreign materials
Especially, Korea had "Stories on Wan Byeok" 33 Vietnamese described Vietnam by Chosun of Korea at the beginning of the 17th century The book described as follows: Vietnamese people at that time regardless of boys and girls, age and baby, everyone only used a silk fabric to cover the front and back, no longer than the knee, exposing thighs According to estimates, this was a Loin-cloth, men's clothing
People cultivated mulberry, raised silkworm, took silk and weaved into sewing Loin-cloth, people at that time did not wear sandals, as the authors recognize, it showed a equal lifestyle , not distinguish between the rich and poor, high and low of people
Composition and specificness of traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai
Sauce: WIKIPEDIA http://vi.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%81o_d%C3%A0i
Can be divided Ao Dai into three parts: collar, body (before, following) and sleeve
* Collar: is the top part of Ao Dai Collar of ancient Ao Dai was Chinese collar standing with a height of 3-5cm, hard liners, and contoured edges to decorate (the allegations) High collar is high or low depending on the shape and taste of the wearer Also, now, there are kinds of innovation as boat collar, round snugly, or deep-cut
* My shirt includes two parts: front and behind parts Parts of Ao Dai are made of a cloth in a row, without pairing fabric The length of Ao Dai could be ankle- length or longer than the knee, depending on styles and preferences of wearers
_ On the previous body has a part: body buttons (button press), the end hook
+ Body Button (button press): button (button press) made of metal Button to the right, running from the collar, armpits, down to the waist
+ End Button: above buttons by hook at the waist (size), attached with below and behind flag People used hooks rather than buttons (button press) because in order to ensure certainty, safe movement, movement of the dress If instead of a hook, moving is easy to mount, slip
+ Ben line: Are lines In the below body had four ben lines, 2 horizontal ben, 2 vertical ben Horizontal lines to create focal points for the chest make the chest look taller, sexier Vertical ben make the waist look slim
+ Ho: is a piece in the front, adding buttons
_ Below flags had 2 vertical Ben to make slimmer waist, AO Dai softer, sexier
* Sleeve: Hugging tapered sleeves and tying the arm neck of sleeves often round
Ao Dai worn with a wide tube, the same or different color But Pants has different color with the shirt, it will feel younger
** Sewing Ao Dai required having skills Except for sewing adjacent body, hand, for the most part to be hand-sewn each stitch to be skillful, careful without revealing sutures Therefore, only skillful tailors may sew Ao Dai
Part of top Part of pants
The largest magic of Ao Dai is tailored by a shape to highlight curves of women's body, but very discreet Ao Dai are the beauty sexy clothes highlighting every detail of the shape of women's body Moreover, it expresses clearly every curve, Ao Dai must be tailored basing on 30 indicators of the body, can use the material or fabric that wearers like, so this is the shirt to highlight the personality of wearers
The upper body of the new clothing style by Chinese collar with hugging designs emphasized chest and waist of women Erecting collar, using buttons or hooks to the right not to reveal the chest Form of inside hook without revealing buttons
Body length was nearly down to the ankle to create a feeling of wearing dresses, the length of the body is short-term, depending on changes of modern mode
This kind looking straight will be polite as dresses in a row, but when looking the side will see the sexy because of cutting line from waist down However, cutting lines of the side of Ao Dai may be higher or lower depending on the difference in the level of expression with age or job
The body is tight even the shape of body, no major obstacle in life when wearing Unlike Hanbook 53 or Kimono 54 having large sleeves, Ao Dai is not slipped and kept Long straight sleeves of Ao Dai are convenient in activities such as cooking or cleaning
Recently, appearing many shirts without hands or sewing by different fabric, the collar disappeared, the curve in the chest also formed very new Materials dressed very diverse and not limited to design changes Depending on personal preferences can be dressed with a variety of fabrics, embroidery or velvet
This new dress had lower wide body, with pants is types of pyjamas 55 , suit with Vietnam's climate and is comfortable to operate Two pants sewn resumed from the waist, to fit in the waist and hips to add a few lines, to make the abdomen smoothness The zipper can be placed in front or side, depending on the preference of wearers or designs Moreover, upper body hugging body against the lower body, which provides effectiveness to help women to wear slimier 56 The transformation of new Ao Dai summarized as follows:
53 Hanbok(韓服): Is the traditional costume of both men and women, even in the Chosun era; cullently, used in Holidays, events
54 Kimono(着物): Is the traditional costume of Japanese men and women, with wide and long sleeves to the ankle
55 Pyjamas: These are sleeping shirt with a above wide wearing with pants usually made of fabric to absorb sweat and air
56 Ramira (Edit): "Ethnic clothes: National costume of many countries in the world created in the form of creation "(Ramira, 1992), pp.183
Ao Dai with belt ∙ Forms of Ao Dai with a belt
Ao Dai with Ba Nhu type
∙ Calling neck opening Ao Dai of Ms Le Xuan Phu, a wife of Ngo Dinh Nhu
∙ In 1958, Ms Nhu dressed and appeared in Saigon
∙ Design changes of hands and collars
∙ has generated much debate on sociaty
∙ expressed confidence of young girls in Saigon
Ao Tay Giac Lang (Reglan)
∙ Reglan Design was released in Dung Dakao at Ho Chi Minh City
∙ Short Ao dai called Reglan mini, long Ao Dai called maxi Reglan
∙ Cutting lines from the neck to armpit
∙ Designed with long body to the foot without seeing the heel
∙ Made of soft fabric with designs by Le Pho
57 Raglan: sleeves sewn from neck down to the armpit, not over shoulders
∙ Long body to the knee
∙ Chest and sleeves are not tight
∙ There is no need to use more fabric to sew, many student are favorite
∙ This type of clothing was liked by girls of Saigon until the end of April / 1975
Ao ba tà designed around the year 1970 in Saigon, having 3 bodies, the body made from a piece of cloth, the front with two-piece with a row of buttons from the neck down to the waist
Ao Dai are emerging with new shapes and intentions Recent material as well as wearing
Ao Dai has a lot of changes, including types without buttons
2.1.3 Traditional Ao Dai and Modern Ao Dai
First, it must be said that Ao Dai tan Thoi rooted in traditional dress of Vietnam
Has undergone many changes but just some parts However, traditional costumes and Ao Dai Tan Thoi are subjects to the introduction of external forces, it can be seen that Ao Dai has developed an innovative way in Vietnam Firstly, Ao Tu Than a traditional costume influenced by Qi Pao introduced from Thanh Dynasty in the 18th century, Minh Mang King of Nguyen Dynasty, Ao Dai Tan Thoi created under the influence of France Then, Both Ao Dai and Ao Tu Than of upper classes and intellectual classes, people usually wear to go out in holidays or events Finally, Both Ao Dai and both men and women, the old and the young can wear Ao Tu Than Originally, both men and women worn Ao Tu Than, but it has become gradually women's clothing
Category AO TU THAN AO DAI
This Costume changed from Chinese
Qi Pao to suit with climate and people of Vietnam from the 18th century Nguyen Dynasty
This Costume made from the 1930s through a combination of
Vietnamese traditional costumes with the influence of Western culture
The outside is usually dark like brown, bronze, the inside in favor of bright like yellow, pink, white
Usually is bright such as white, pale pastel,
However, the middle-aged often choose dark
Front flap with opening, without buttons, let flaps flying or using the waist Above cloths having on a combination of classes
There are two following flaps, 2 side opening Hugging the body, length until the ankle, besides from the waist down to open, the bottom worn pants with loose-tube
Methods of wearing multiple layers
Wearing inside Yem and color pants upper dark Ao Dai
Despite not revealing, still expressing beauty of the body Since the introduction of cultural underwear instead of Yem, which is a kind of inner wear before, the shape of the chest has been adjusted by underwear
On top is a towel or hair, feet with clogs (the ruling class used lacquer clogs, dominant class used wooden clogs) When having festivals or events, women usually use a type of shoes having nose bulging called Hai
On head has hat (bucket hats, tip hats ) to cover the sun or decorate, feet with slippers or sandals
Aristocracy class could wear every day, but normal people usually wear when going out for holidays or events
Recently, addition to holidays or events can wear normal clothes to the office, uniforms for school,
To wear Ao Dai nice, firstly needing to have fit Ao Dai with the body, and selecting accessories, jewelry, hair, finally, being the attitude, aware
To wear Ao Dai nice, need to know how to choose fit Ao Dai with the body
Determining whether you're skin or fat body, high or low, and then choosing Ao Dai with the material, style, and pattern have to be suitable Specifically:
Ao DAi in the war against the USA
2.2.1 Symbol of war protest and peace
When taking about Ao Dai, the first image appears that is a girl wearing Ao Dai and a white hat with long smooth hair Of course, this image also shows a deliberate way, from this image, in the perception of the world, Ao Dai is the symbol of Vietnam
However, reasons why Ao Dai become a symbol of Vietnam without relating to this image, it is due to the war China, France and the USA Vietnam have struggled with external forces and maintain national integrity Flow of history has been marked in Ao Dai we can see that the best type of clothing between China Qi Pao and Western style is the result
Direct reasons of Ao Dai known by the entire world to originate from daily vivid images of war, journalists of Western battles to join the war against the United States to capture and convey to whole world Pictures taken are girls wearing Ao Dai with revealing softer material in contrast with the space of the battle For those who are watching from outside Vietnam War saw images of women does not seem to side with the war, causing them to eventually have an aversion to the battlefield
At that time, besides white Ao Dai, there are many diverse designs, but the anti- war movement has intentionally used white White makes us think of purity, clarity, peace, homogeneous and death image of purity and death derived from this color combination with the image of Vietnam weak women in society, highlighting the image of aggressor (men forces of American imperialism - who want to continue the war
Tactics of the war used by the Communist Party of Vietnam against the United States, has made it difficult for the USA military to distinguish the army or civilians, they did not hesitate to kill civilians, the Western speech transmitted to the public of the tragic scene of the Vietnam War, forcing people have to follow a nostalgic silhouette of women wearing Ao Dai on a bloody battlefield
Images of women wearing Ao Dai and hat has shown is the victim of bad circumstances of the war The young of Vietnam wearing a white Ao Dai and contrast with red blood, which makes the world feel the ferocity of the war, making people' objections become action to againt the war
Despite the great role of Ao Dai in the war, after the war ended in a long time, the Communist Party of Vietnam has banned people to wear Ao Dai Despite going through many hardships, the Communist Party of Viet Nam criticized and considered Ao Dai as a product of capitalism and the influence of French imperialism More specifically, materials and designs of Ao Dai are not suitable with values of the communist party of Vietnam pursuing, so it should have seen as a kind of decadent costumes
Normally, women's costumes reflect thought and culture of an era Reasons for the development of the world fashion in the 1920s a stable society leads to the abundance of matter and spirit, and has been reflected both cultural costumes
Therefore, women's clothing at that time was more splendid From this view that the independent Government of Vietnam gave Ao Dai in the anti-war movement, after the war they found that Ao Dai without any valid In addition, it was found that Vietnam is a socialist country, banning to wear Ao Dai is right
Moreover, after the war ended, in the context of the economic exchanges with the outside world was cut off, Vietnam economy has become extremely poor Specially, sewing materials were silk so that the common people was not easy to get, people have seen Ao Dai representing the bourgeoisie, and it was not acceptable in a country of socialism
Examples are also found in China, from 1966 to 1976, revolutionary period 58 , China's traditional culture has been put at risk, similarly 59 , Qi Pao was also encountered problems like Ao Dai Qi Pao - feudal clothing and western culture has been regarded as ‘remnants of feudalism’, ‘means of capitalism’ should have become the object of attacking by Communism people holding a new government, during that period - the popular clothing was kaki 60 Qi Pao became the object of attacking Qi Pao has been labeled as routine against people So when the wife of China President Luu Thieu Ky worn Qi Pao and visited Indonesia in 1963 has been criticized as insulting the country Later when the China economy developed
58 The Cultural Revolution is a social and cultural movement took place in about 10 years by leader Mao Trach Dong of China initiated
59 Yoo Sang, Jang Jeong Im, Lee Yeon Hui, "design features of Qi Pao appearing in modern fashion design focus on women fashion collection 2000 ~ 2009 ", (Faculty Fashion, Hanyang University, 2011), pp.300
60 Khaki: Yellow, brown mainly used in military uniform through innovation policies, Qi Pao fashion was also assessed, and received the enthusiastic support of China women 61
Ao Dai after the Doi Moi policy
2.3.1 Symbol for renovation in socio-economic
After the reunification of North and South of Viet Nam, the general reform in living habits were not reformed from the enthusiasm of people, which has been enforced in decades under the vigilance and supervision of the Party However, the
“Doi Moi” policy in 1986 has put an end to the enthusiasm propaganda campaign and strict supervision of the Party to reform these practices
The economic reforms advocated by capitalism nature named Innovation policy, initially brought hopes to escape poverty and bring wealth to Vietnamese Loosing regulations of the Party and government lead to economic collapse and dominate of family economy, thus bringing results to restore traditional practice activities
Economic independence of families increases individuals, economic sectors to invest in activities and practices, reviving interest in the restoration of traditional culture In fact, after the “Doi Moi” policy so far the restoration of traditional activities and practices has been carried out on a large scale
Whatever the social matter, if the political and economic stability, national unity, people will find again traditional values throughout history, this method is mainly used to restore the traditional culture In this regard, Vietnam took Ao Dai as a center for national unity, Ao Dai has been restored after more than 10 years prohibited with reasons ‘capitalism decadent costume are both provocative and
61 Author Sưchihara Yasưo, Lee Yun Hye adapted, "The Story of Costume containing culture and history_Cultural history bound with costumes of the East and West ", (Seoul: Hyemoon Books Publisher 2007), pp.104 effective labor in production’ In 1988, a period of reforming and opening, Ao Dai have been selected as the 'symbol of Vietnam traditional culture 62
In addition, Ao Dai reappeared on all aspects of Vietnam society, people had organized a fashion festival in Hue called the "Changing of 10 kinds of Ao Dai" displayed approximately 550 Ao Dai created by 10 famous designers of Vietnam, the festival has confirmed to the National People that Ao Dai is a traditional costume of Vietnam
Through the mass media by introducing to the world the beauty of Ao Dai, it has been efforts with an image of Vietnam Not only provisions of Ao Dai is the uniform of administrative offices, school but also used in daily life, made images of Ao Dai become familiar throughout Vietnam, so Ao Dai has restored honor to become Vietnam's traditional costume, and appear on every aspect of Vietnam society
By the result of these efforts, Ao Dai actually has become costumes representing for Vietnam, but in the course of industrialization, modernization, urbanization, Ao Dai with long skirts and materials of silk it does not match labor costumes Like traditional costumes of most other countries, Ao Dai also exists many drawbacks to wear in modern social life Ao Dai is currently tend to be used more in holidays, meetings, or large events It can be seen that modern Ao Dai is used popularly
Most of national costumes have many disadvantages, except holidays or national events, people often wear as everyday clothing However, Vietnam Ao Dai is still being used in daily life as a flight attendant's uniform, government officials, school uniform in some areas Foreigners who always referred to symbols of Vietnam Ao Dai
62 Compared Hwang Ok, "Comparative study of people's costumes: get a focus on Korean • Chinese • Vietnamese"(The Folklore comparison, 2000), pp.80
It brings an official national symbol with full contents to introduce the whole world to know of the existence of the country, also known as the pride of the nation
National symbols play a central role in linking people of a country into a block It plays an important role, help create the spirit of national unity and inculcate image and characteristics of the country for the whole world, through national symbol if people live in the country that anyone can be patriotic and sympathy Creating the greatest impact to the image of the country such as flags and also informally symbols as buildings, the local products made up of a long historical tradition or from the characteristics of culture Symbol of Vietnam Ao Dai belonged groups 63
Ao Dai is derived from traditional clothes of Vietnam and influenced by China, France, but through a War against the United State, people from worldwide considered Ao Dai as Vietnam's symbol A war against the United State, whole world has known country called Vietnam, Vietnam woman worn Ao Dai becoming a symbol of Vietnam, Vietnam is a victim of the war
After the implementation of “Doi Moi” policy, Vietnam Government has used this image in the promotion of culture to economic development in the country, the government is also trying to restore and develop Ao Dai to emphasize national traditions to unite people of the country After Vietnam joined the WTO (World Trade Organization: Vietnam Government made efforts to introduce Ao Dai widely in the world) Government efforts have become favorable factors encouraging the pride and the strength of unity, engraved image of Vietnam with friends in the world
Origin of modern Ao Dai designed by combining with the world prevailing fashion in the 1920s, the 30s, a period of the most exciting modern development In other words, costumes are created from the living habits and values of the Vietnamese taking design platform of the nature of Western Europe becoming the
63 Choi Gi Won, research related to image expressed in national beer brands through imaginary memory network model, (master's thesis, University of Han Yang, 2007), pp.19-20 representative image of Vietnam Sympathy of the world for Ao Dai as this image shows individual culture of Vietnam receiving worldwide recognition It can be seen that Ao Dai as the symbolic nature of visual of Vietnam becoming memorable and influential for people around the world.
ROLE AND BEAUTY OF AO DAI
Role of Ao Dai
3.1.1 Ao Dai as a type of uniform
According to the research results to date, Ao Dai are a product 64 of Western cultural product in traditional costumes Therefore, the introduction of Western culture through the French colonial rule has created a lot of changes not only in the shape of clothes outside but also in the thinking of the people of Vietnam
Traditionally in the West, for men who appreciate the strength to be able to gain power, while women require attractive form as beauty looks to be able to gain power in an indirect way This relationship makes men always keep the dominance position and a woman is dependent About this, Berger 65 said "Men to act and women to look on"
As mentioned above, for the Vietnam, in traditional society of Vietnam if previous look on both men and women wear Ao Dai, but now only women wear, you can easily understand Vietnam experienced French colonial period, had indirectly a lot of influence in the perception of gender roles in Western culture
With these influences, Vietnam is like the West, Vietnam women are not active participants in the social that only serves watched
Since, modern Ao Dai differ from traditional Ao Dai, Ao Dai modern shape to highlight a woman's body According to the introduction of Western clothes, bras began to be used should Ao Dai as highlight the chest and waist, women used as a method to attract the attention of the working class of male Because of this, after the Vietnam won the South and North, Ao Dai has been considered a product of colonialism, was lowered into the remnants of the bourgeois culture, so we can
64 Products here bring figuratively only things or status are born from something
65 John Berger, Ways of Seeing, (Malcolm Barnard, Op.cit.) Quoted from pp.113 understand the reson that Ao Dai has been banned for 10 years to make equality between men and women
Since the implementation of policies of renewal and re-opening of the Western cultural exchange, Ao Dai began to be used as uniforms for high school female students in the central region, South of Vietnam This expresses the sense of equality in a socialist, and has also introduced the culture of capitalism, the role of women defined as 'dependent object' in society, paternalistic has growth once again revived Furthermore the Ao Dai are the first uniform in the South, not in the North is by South remains area is still thought capitalism in the past
Ao Dai is the appropriate attire used as uniforms for high school female students
White Ao Dai is not only to prevent the hot sun protection that when looking skin feeling clean and cool, not only that it also serves to help adjust posture in a neatly for women Also in public agencies have chosen Ao Dai as working uniforms for female employees, monochrome Ao Dai uniforms here meant to emphasize the need for efficiency and consistency Ao Dai used as a uniform characterized by low-rail side than usual Ao Dai, good quality, fresh and comfortable movement
Ao Dai of mature women emphasize charm, Ao Dai used as uniforms appreciate the applicability and good for health Ao Dai used as a uniform, for internal affairs with a role of pride for the wearer through the encouragement of national spirit and emotional attachment, on the external affairs is symbolic of Vietnam for foreign countries when looking at the Vietnamese society
Right from the primitive time, humans have gender-specific expression of the potential due to sexual desires unconsciously In particular, this phenomenon is evident in women's clothing It is through costumes convey the message to others, essentially to sexual attraction The women expressed through dress with attractive shapes gender, because men stems from a desire to see its shape in a more ideal, this behavior also signals men want to know themselves Therefore, such as how to express sexual attraction, women know that the use of clothing on the body or part covered by the network will work out a lot more attractive than exposing better
This can also be found in Western attire, dressed in the West it was found that the body can make, the body express emphasize sexual characteristics in a natural way
In which, J.C.Flugel 66 [The Psychology of Clothes] said: when humanity options their clothes, the purpose is to encourage basic sexual instincts, and he explains the changes in fashion concept called as "change of sensitive areas" (shifting erogenous zone) According to James Laver 67 , body decoration human reason stems from the need to call instinct is to preserve our race and reproduction, through dress makes the body more beautiful each one is expected to be the mate choice selected
We can see that this view is also applied in modern Ao Dai of Vietnam Ao Dai design change began in the late of French domination, the other with the former time, Ao Dai was seriously aesthetics of women rather than emphasize features such as workwear According to the color of the modern Ao Dai has become more splendid than the traditional Ao Dai, appearance tends to emphasize women, this reflects the desire to bring a woman's instinct is choice by male
During the war against the French and Americans that Vietnam has undergone, the desire for the preservation of our race and fertility of Vietnamese women to become strong more powerful, in this process women have expressed that desire through dress called as Ao Dai, seeing it as a means to gain power in an indirect way Accordingly Ao Dai design reflects the personality and desires of each individual, using gorgeous colors and diverse materials The design was modified to express a feminine body has attracted the eyes of the opposite person
In contrast, men in the transition from traditional society to modern society have gradually no longer worn, instead of using Western clothing trends The introduction of Western capitalism with the development industry than agriculture
66 J.Flugel, The psychology of Clothes, (London Hogarth Press, 1930), pp.145~201
67 James Laver, Dress, (London: John Murray, 1996), pp.15 and basic industries of traditional society, made for men has become increasingly popular among Western clothing.
Beauty of Ao Dai
'Voluptuous beauty' is a beauty not to be missed when talking about Ao Dai
Usually voluptuous beauty means attractive, erotic by extreme exposure However
Ao Dai is not the type blouses beauty sensual expression through revealing, expression methods in this city is the beauty of the woman's body but at the same time very discreet Discreet but attractive women’s body curves: discreet but not rustic, exposed but not erotic
Many documents have said that the Ao Dai are very sexy However Ao Dai's beauty is much more than just sexy Sexy and voluptuous beauty looks nearly identical, but the beauty sexy often accompanies revealing to express sexual attraction The shape of the Ao Dai can not be called revealing Only at the level of a small cut on the side slopes The clothes, while not a direct route, so that they can still see the characteristic body of the woman is the Ao Dai
By voluptuous beauty, woman wearing a really sexy with White short neck out above the neck, back of hands open road from the edge of the sleeves, and small openings from sides Not only is that populations of the Ao Dai also a secret Ao Dai pants look from the outside looks like a woman wearing a long dress We can not directly see the pants I can not see the shape of pants, long pants tucked inside the Ao Dai body should look like a flap of long skirt This is like the shape of of discreet that women wearing one-piece skirts 68
In addition, the sophistication of the Ao Dai has heightened the voluptuous beauty of the woman, we can find this in the buttons Method of setting buttons of
68 One-piece dress [one-piece] is the common name for the kind of clothes wiht the body and the skirt is not a separate division which was connected into one
Ao Dai is installed from the neck to the armpit, from the armpit to the waist coat, all the buttons are concealed inside the jacket Apparently we can not see
Where are shirt buttons, or buttons begin and end in place This shape helps seal the woman's body in the Ao Dai which can not be revealed Ao Dai are so discreet but on the other hand have shown the body That is the body embrace of the body, showing very nice curves of a woman's body Normally when Ao Dai to accurately measure the size of the 30 indicators and a very fit body, this is to maximize the beauty of the woman The shape of the hard collar, cross buttons, chest and waist hugging just avoid direct route but to help show up the beauty of the curve on a woman's body This is an expression of beauty in a state of minimizing the exposed body Not only that this also increases the curiosity evokes men's desire to conquer, make people feel more attractive
Elegant beauty means harmonized combination of what is available and what needs to be available That we can feel the elegance exuding from a woman wearing
Ao Dai is due to her body beauty Ao Dai are a type of costume representing woman beauty without a need for any decoration or exposure In other words, through an intermediary named Ao Dai, beauty of the body curves and the woman body ratio has been uplifted to a new level of beauty
For many countries traditional costumes, elegant and luxurious feeling appreciated most stunning dress is very structured and complex cultural characteristics, ethnic the tradition has been recast of that country However, elegant of Ao Dai is very different Compared with the splendor, simple as attraction of Ao Dai Although no jewelry or special patterns like the traditional costume of the country, the image of girls dressed in Ao Dai and hats made from bamboo or simple leaves makes us feel elegant 69
69 Elegant means splendid beauty that is very fresh and clean
In addition, the reasons why we see the elegant shape of the material is in the Ao Dai Ao Dai material is soft silk materials, fly helps emphasize femininity This made me think of the elegant woman, also suggests a sense of the modern woman freedom unfettered by the rules of society This point is different to Korean Hanbook or Japanese Kimono Korean Hanbok silk material along with Ao Dai, but the fabric hard cover with a layer of the lake makes more sense respect the obligations of Korean women in Confucian society Japanese Kimono sides beyond gorgeous but does not show the woman's body, which suggests that the dependence of women on men, other Japanese Kimono Ao Dai gently soaring main is feeling heavy
Ao Dai carry 'beauty has review' Since it can be at once both sexy and elegant - these things seem completely in harmony with each other Ao Dai costume is simple and neat but not gorgeous or decorative detail such as traditional costumes of other countries However the shape of a woman wearing Ao Dai is very slim and light Upright collar shapes hug the neck and body hugging his body shows all figures the wearer, it is the image of slender woman and in the morning without any hiding Perhaps also from this that the shape of the young woman wearing white robes in the field has attracted the attention of many people around the world Do not understand why the image of young women wearing Ao Dai with simple shapes in space of battle with the tragic killing and suffering 70 brings a peace, do not know any reason, slender shapes of young woman it makes me feel heartbroken
In short, even without any special jewelry, but Ao Dai is most striking for the beauty of woman female that is the female body curves the source of beauty In addition, the sexy and elegant look not get along with each other, so that Ao Dai bring in his 'critical beauty' as the most prominent feminine appeal, that is the expression of elegant and beautiful not to show the body to out and attractive beautiful beauty shirt to show the woman's body curves
70 Painful suffering from the state or scene extremely tragic
Generally considered skirt outfit dedicated to women so that Ao Dai worn with pants When you think that out of the molds has been standardized is the essence of Unprecedented beauty, Ao Dai is the Unprecedented beauty Of course in Vietnam is not the first women were wearing pants Previously on the primitive culture in Vietnam women wears skirts, men wear T-shaped belt, then China invaded Vietnam through An Nam Do Ho Phu and Vietnam was China National culture and people started wearing pants Especially in the time of Ming rule, the Chinese-style dress was required, not only men but women also wear pants
Form of wear pants of the Ao Dai, with convenient for operation, shape, style pajamas comfortable with the thighs and legs so wide open The same front and rear, two wide pants are put together at the top Here we add a few lines to fit the body, this line also help to see the waist If even with Ao Dai, will make the body look slender and active, simultaneously satisfy both usability and aesthetics of women 71
Vietnamese women through the wearing, the kind of clothes which is considered only for men indirectly for equal rights with men in the society of male contempt for women, and to call women courage, talent show, confirmed their position in the society The combination of sensual strokes through the seam close to the waist and chest, along with the convenience of wearing pants when operating in daily activities, Dresses beauty just to satisfy the desire of women, has brought feel convenient to wear.
Vietnamese Ao Dai in comparison with Korean’s Hanbok
3.3.1 Brief introduction about Korean’s Hanbok
71 This is a form of body Ao Dai is worn with pants
Hanbok for men includes Ba-ji (trousers), Jeogori (shirts), Jo-ki (short-sleeveless vest) and Durumagi (coat) Hanbok for women includes Chi-ma (skirt), Jeogori (short-blouse) and Durumagi (coat) This constitutes a Hanbok also a number of factors, including historical factors, natural factors, religious factors and human factors
A typical hanbok is made of white fabric and very wide (in line with the
“Ondol” heating system - a heating system warms under the floor) to be comfortable and cool Hanbok can wear in house is very handy For those who used daily wear Hanbok, fabrics are choosing to garment usually cotton or linen Silk is a royal fabric, used only in the special festive day Clothes to wear on the ceremony with colorful borders in the sleeve of children and women
There is nothing unusual if you find the old lady and old man in traditional rural dressed like they just stepped out of a photo taken many years ago A typical older men often have the buttons are made of amber hanging clothes, rubber boots foot curved tapered tip up and wearing a hat called "Kat" knit from fur ruff or ponytail hair pants The below of the hat seems that older people used to have long braids, wrap back on top of their head It is the old costume, and now Korean wears Hanbok Hanbok today as unique in the embroidery at the hem, sleeves and collar
It is embroidered onto it all the patterns, as well as animals Increasingly, the change of style, color, fabric and fit to people But due to the development of industrialization, the Korean is no longer to wear Hanbok fussy and it does not fit with the modern work environment Nowadays, Hanbok but is unfortunately by the beautiful fabrics, unique and quite expensive but most Koreans wear only during festivals or special days It represents the pride of the nation, the country of Korea
According to legend, in 2333 BC, a demigod named Tan-gun founded a kingdom called Choson on the Korea peninsula Koreans see it as their founders For more than 4000 years since then, ethnic of Han is a model of consistency preserving traditional cultural values but still adapt quickly and skillfully with the constantly changing life circumstances Hanbok over time also has significant improvements continue to match living conditions in each history
Although there are a few more of today's Hanbok appear from time immemorial, but the type of the two parts (jacket and skirt or pants) today just starting from the time Sam Nation (year 57 BC - 668 AD), when the kingdom of Koguryo, Shilla baekche and dominated the Korean peninsula This was evident on the stone wall in the tomb in Susani; Ssangyeong-chong the Kuguryo from the fourth century to the sixth century Through testing, the culture has to draw the general definition in costume on several paintings Women wear brightly colored skirts, dress through the waist, and flap right than to the left side, collar and borders exquisitely patterned sleeves Especially this time period that women wear a long pants inside skirt and a jacket outside Men wear a long coat, long sleeves and long pants, dresses with many patterns In addition, both men and women shoes boots style as now How can model the impact of the harsh terrain and northern nomadic life with the center is a horse created Furthermore, according to the geographical and cultural factors, this costume also greatly influenced by Chinese clothes
At Shilla and baekche kingdom along time have a similar costume Restoration of the land walls found in the tomb for that time women wore jeogori narrow hands, so many folds, it forced constriction in the chest Then, the Chinese-style silk gown was introduced into North Korea from its neighbors, gradually nobility and upper acceptable since 648 when the Shilla kingdom unified the peninsula from the three state into a state of family reunification in 668(with capital is kyongju) This gown is worn outside traditional ethnic costumes Aristocratic women began to wear pants
- long tight skirt, long-sleeved gown, tied with a ribbon at the waist The men wear loose trousers, narrow at the ankle and a wrist bouquet gown and tied at the waist
As such, constitutes a women's hanbok in this period include: Inside tight skirt (Ch'ima), a short jacket (jeogori) with a ribbon bow tie at the left chest and gown outside looks very elegant The men wear Magoja (above) and Joggi (shirt and wide trousers, uniform, even inside) with short jacket jeogori
Hanbok that we know today is the result of the variation, improvements in ages
In 935, Shilla decline and be replaced by the Koryo dynasty (capital is Keasong), also start from here, the name of Korea was established Buddhism, which the Shilla considered religious people continue to grow along with the print job and many other arts During the Koryo dynasty, chi'ma modified for short, higher than the waist, chest Slim fit Chogori also shorter and arms are slightly bent At the same time, women started braiding into a bun on the head, men are shaving the head, leaving a hair cap In 1392, the Choson dynasty began Dynasty by Yi-but-Gye (name of King Taejo) establishes a former general of the Koryo Dynasty created
Yi-song-Gye had moved the capital from Keasong Buddhist influence still strong in Seoul in 1394 Since Confucianism has entered all areas of life and is considered to be the national religion Rituals, Confucian traditions have defined the type of shirt aristocracy, members of royalty, nobility, civilians must be worn during festivals, weddings, funerals In this era, the steadfast, honest of men, the women's virginity has become moral standards in society and is reflected in Korean costumes The men's hanbok basically unchanged But women's clothing has changed, In the XV century, women began to wear long skirts, ranked Storage and long Chogory to completely obscure the outline for the body However, over time, due to the requirements of life, Chogori becoming shorter until it just cover has all chest, this style to this day still remain Due to the busy lifestyle of living of the modern, Hanbok become uncomfortable for the wearer Therefore, Hanbok is increasingly improved for simple, appropriate costume to become in the daily lives of the Korean people Unlike before, Korean women often spend a lot of time to do the ribbon tie full of hair decoration, Norigae (tong teng), embroidered canvas shoes curved nose Basically, the "parts "mostly hats, cloth, shoes made of leather or straw, and some jewelry Like the Vietnamese ao dai, Korean Hanbok nor should they have to carry bags or handkerchief
Unlike the long, traditional Korean dress is much more complex Hanbok is tailored by the different fabrics and colors, depending on social status, according to the circumstances and the age of the wearer These criteria also vary according to age In Hanbok classification can be divided according to age to say will be more than enough
In the era of worship Confucianism (Choseon 1392-1910) This is theclass distinction is very strict The men were wearing of servants deprivation, be wear Hanbok long, strip wearing a, coronary hat hair ponytail, shirt stripped, boots
Working-class women are only allowed to wear narrow Hanbok, rustic fabric with purpose for everyone to get to know through the clothes of people have been stripped of all minimal rights of man Yangban, an elite hereditary style, based on the degree of wealth and power to wear Hanbok made by silk or silk slick in cold weather and drapery fabrics or luxury fabrics are light materials in warm weather
Meanwhile, civilians are limited by the law (and also due to the financial situation does not allow) to wear white linen shirt and wearing only white, only in special cases can wear pale pink, light blue, dark gray or black one Yangban women wear skirt wrap 12 P'ok wide (length unit of Korea) and fold the flap on the left side while the civilians were forbidden to wear Ch'ima with width than 10 P'ok or 11 P'ok For a Hanbok more complete, we also look to its accessories Women or Cheomo team, Korean labor team dorongi (a hard hat) and kat(hat) to cover, rain or shine when working in the fields Choseon ladies usually time to spend a lot of time embroidering the ribbon tie full of hair decoration, bags or silk wallet (pokjumoni) and Norigae Apparel of men is most of the hard horsehair hat (kat vogue from Shilla until the beginning of this century), and a long silk cord tied around his chest
On major holidays only those of royal or those with new social status wearing dark