(LUẬN văn THẠC sĩ) nghiên cứu áo dài biểu trưng của việt nam luận văn ths khu vực học 60 31 60

VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY, HANOI INSTITUTE OF VIETNAMESE STUDIES AND DEVELOPMENT SCIENCES - LEE MI JUNG “AO DAI” A SYMBOL OF VIETNAMESE CULTURE MASTER THESIS Major: Vietnamese Studies Hanoi - 2012 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com VIETNAM NATIONAL UNIVERSITY, HANOI INSTITUTE OF VIETNAMESE STUDIES AND DEVELOPMENT SCIENCES - LEE MI JUNG “AO DAI” A SYMBOL OF VIETNAMESE CULTURE Master thesis of Major: Vietnamese Studies Code: 60 31 60 Thesis supervisor : Prof Dr PHAM DUC DUONG Hanoi - 2012 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com TABLE OF CONTENTS PRELUDE Reasons to choose the study matter Study purpose and meaning .5 Study purpose Meaning of study .6 Review of previous studies on Ao Dai .7 Specificness of the previous studies Existing problems of previous studies Subject and scope of study 14 Study method 14 Study structure 15 Chapter1: ORIGIN AND PROCESS OF FORMING THE AO DAI AS WE KNOW NOWADAYS 16 1.1 Vietnamese cultural costume 16 1.1.1 Origin of Vietnames cultural costume 16 1.1.2 Classification and specificness of the first Vietnamese costumes 18 1.2 Origin of forming and the process of transformation of Vietnamese traditional Ao dai 25 1.2.1 Effect of Chinese Qi Pao 25 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 1.2.2 Effects of Cham’s Ao Dai 29 1.2.3 Effect of French-western costumes .31 1.2.4 Ao Dai development stages 32 Chapter2: VALUE AND SPECIFICNESS OF AO DAI-VIETNAMESE CULTURAL SYMBOL 37 2.1 Composition and specificness of traditional Vietnamese Ao Dai 37 2.1.1 Composition of Ao Dai 37 2.1.2 Specificness of Ao Dai 39 2.1.3 Traditional Ao Dai and Modern Ao Dai 43 2.1.4 Ao Dai Accessories 44 2.2 Ao DAi in the war against the USA 47 2.2.1 Symbol of war protest and peace 47 2.2.2 Symbol for Vietnam’s independence 48 2.3 Ao Dai after the Doi Moi policy 50 2.3.1 Symbol for renovation in socio-economic 50 2.3.2 Symbol of national culture 51 Chapter 3: ROLE AND BEAUTY OF AO DAI 54 3.1 Role of Ao Dai 54 3.1.1 Ao Dai as a type of uniform 54 3.1.2 Ao Dai and women .55 3.2 Beauty of Ao Dai 57 3.2.1 Voluptuous beauty 57 3.2.2 Elegant beauty 58 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 3.2.3 Unprecedented beauty 60 3.3 Vietnamese Ao Dai in comparison with Korean’s Hanbok 60 3.3.1 Brief introduction about Korean’s Hanbok 60 3.3.2 Comparison between Ao Dai and Hanbok 69 CONCLUSION .73 Summary 73 Expectations to subsequent studies .75 REFERENCES 77 APPENDIX 77 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com INDEX OF TABLE [TABLE 1.1.] 28 [TABLE 1.2.] 33 [TABLE 1.3.] 34 [TABLE 2.4.] 41 [TABLE 2.5.] 43 [TABLE 3.6.] 70 [Characterized classification chart by each Vietnam traditional dress] .88 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com PRELUDE Reasons to choose the study matter Ao Dai is one of the image that many people have not been to Vietnam, but they only see the Ao Dai, they can think of Vietnam Since economic reforms, many Countries in the world in the process of establishing diplomatic relationships with Vietnam, have attempted to learn about Vietnam's culture Therefore, concerns about Ao Dai has been gradually improved However, there exists a fact that the study of Ao Dai still is limited These available data are not the theory that only describe meanings of origin, name, or explain basically outside levels, and add to feelings and subjective judgments of the author Moreover, this content has not been corrected by a synthetic way From there, I found that the start of analyzing and correcting the study of Ao Dai is more urgent Therefore, this study will be help for those who want to learn a comprehensive and in-depth way about Ao Dai, as well as people see firstly or want to have more information about Ao Dai Study purpose and meaning Study purpose The purpose of this study is to analyse Ao Dai – Vietnamese symbol systematically and comprehensively Most previous studies on Ao Dai were only a primary topic when introducing to Vietnam, There is no any professional and systematic study Even contents about Ao Dai were also very poor, most reviews and the author's subjective thoughts, or a brief introduction to the origin, the meaning of name or describing the appearance of Ao Dai Learning from previous studies, this study develops not only introduction about Ao Dai, but also consider the change of history since Ao Dai appeared firstly in Vietnam until the new style appears as we know today Moreover, TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com the article also distinguishes kinds of Ao Dai, then analyzing features, beauty and role of each kind This research was done in the hope of replacing the previous incomplete studies about Ao Dai a symbol of Vietnam After the renovation in 1986, Vietnam's Government has used Ao Dai as a mean of promoting the image of the country, but the fact can be denied that documents about Ao Dai is limited, only briefly recorded in the history books, not have a professional study In the reform period, western culture was introduced in Vietnam, but like the majority of Southeast Asian countries, due to the impact of the introduction of the momentum, the lack of selectivity traditional costumes of each country, each country does not inherit intact identities Until now, traditional costumes are not as daily costumes, it only was worn in big events or holidays I myself hope that Ao Dai will dominate its position in the future, it is clothes to wear every day, and not merely an uniform as today Meaning of Study This study is the summary of all previous short and incomprehensive studies on Ao Dai Accordingly, it can be said that this study will be a precious source for people who want to understand deeply and comprehensively about Ao Dai – Vietnamese cultural symbol When considering carefully previous studies, it is obvious that most of them only simply notes about Ao Dai’s appearance, meaning of the name or origin, and in many cases, reflect the subjective thoughts/assessments of the author only In fact, there has not been any comprehensive study in this regard Therefore, by summarizing the previous studies, this study is expected to become a more reliable and accurate document Many people know Ao Dai as the traditional costume of Vietnam, Vietnam went through the long war, economic and social circumstances become difficult, damaged, humans' perception of the value of studying traditional costumes are not high because of feelings when conducting study Most people see it as a costume, TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com they not realize that it is necessary to have a systematic study But elements making our lives: clothes is an important part, especially traditional costumes are a symbol, representing for a country, in terms of domestic policies to improve a national pride, in terms of foreign policies as a mean to promote a national image Through these points, the value of this study is relatively large In particular, by analyzing in depth Vietnamese costume culture based on the available documents on Ao Dai, the study expects to become a tool to grasp the modernization trend of traditional culture, as well as the potential of Vietnamese culture through types of Ao Dai, in the process of Vietnamese society modernization At the same time, this article would like to become useful material for researchers learn about Ao dai Review of previous studies on Ao Dai Specificness of the previous studies Ao Dai known to the world for the first time through the war against the United States of America, and spread images more widely after the Doi Moi policy in its role as a symbol of Vietnam With special charms that no other types of costumes having, Ao Dai received a lot of attention of world fashion However, so far there is no study which corresponds to the value of Ao Dai Instead of studying profession, these current studies of both Vietnam and foreign countries were only a brief and sketchy notes, they are not any literary and artistic value, these studies did not base on materials of history, which were mainly subjective assessment, the author's personal about Ao Dai Because of lacking of expertise in the study is understandable Some foreign material is simply translated from Vietnam's materials, many cases of conveying false information due to errors in the translation process Materials are low, repeating in the process of synthesizing or excerpting from available documents to make contents similar to each other Probably in the TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com last time, Ao Dai’s studied, investigated by foreign researchers more than Vietnam, showed that the capacity of self-advocacy research in Vietnam is poor In the study process, I have tried to access to materials in the United States or France, but most of them was recorded by subjective nature, just described Ao Dai when seeing or perceiving that moment On the other hand, the absence of images such as photographs, photos attached; therefore, the inference of new Ao Dai from these documents is a difficult thing to Existing problems of previous studies This section will analysis in four key points as follows: Firstly, Studying Ao Dai in Vietnam; Secondly, studying Ao Dai in Foreign Countries; Thirdly, studying Ao Dai with a historical perspective, women and costumes of Vietnam; Fourthly, studying of the appearance of new Ao dai under the action of time in the 1920s, 1930s and the influence of modern Chinese costumes Firstly, studying Ao Dai is done in Vietnam; most studies not take Ao Dai as the main theme, which is just a cursory and brief introduction, Ao Dai as a minor theme in the article about Vietnam's costumes The article took Ao Dai as the main theme, also at the level of translating works of foreign authors into Vietnamese or pictures of Ao Dai "Ao dai women's Long Dress"(2011)1 is a 98 page booklet, which includes 17 large and small topics, such as: meaning of Ao Dai and describing the shape of Ao Dai, the development process, current Ao Dai, Ao Dai for women, oldest shop in Hanoi, the village making silk, thoughts of Ao Dai for people living in the USA because of having too many sub-themes, the book went against the intended purpose, rambling contents, only introducing monotonous, much more personal criticism The book can bring for people's feeling who contact firstly Ao Dai: "Well, This is Ao dai." To help Foreigners contact firstly with Ao Dai can understand Lady Borton, Huu Ngoc, "Ao dai women's Long Dress", (World Publisher, 2011) TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com differences between these two types of costumes on the content of the original source material, sewing, how to wear, in any case This process of compassion help us get a deeper awareness, more comprehensive understanding of Vietnamese Ao Dai in relation to Korean Hanbok which have better appreciation of traditional costumes in the flow of culture Expectations to subsequent studies Currently, the biggest problem with the study is not only a serious lack dresses researchers are enthusiastic, but when compared with research directions traditional costumes of other countries will see much more research capacity of the Vietnamese traditional dress unsatisfactory I hope the study of the Vietnamese Ao Dai is subsequently overcome this unsatisfactory The first is the classification of Ao Dai Ao Dai are differentiated into traditional Ao Dai and new style Ao Dai, of which, Ao Dai Giao Linh, Kho, Ao Nam Than, Ao Tu Than but with the current interpretation not an accurate picture together will be very difficult to sort for above clothes The reader will easily understand and differentiate if from the image data associated with explanations on each type of content The second, colors and fabrics may depend on the type of dress, gender, age and work wear In this regard, there should be handled in a more specific and detailed The third, as analyzed jewelry accessories with Ao Dai like: hats, shoes, precious metals, other accessories If there is a specific article notes describing exactly known and explained in detail and attached photos of these items, there will be a large contribution in the study of Ao Dai The fourth, Explain and record name of Ao Dai's parts the study also refers to the name of Ao Dai in the next section, however, still need a specific study explains accompanied by photographic documentation or detailed pictures 75 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com The fifth is the interpretation of the image come the sewing process of Ao Dai One of the handle is not good of this study is that analysis of the measurement of each part of the body to sew Ao Dai In fact, I just visited a few Ao Dai sewing store and reference materials, and could not explain the problem clearly The records detail the measurement of body measurements as how measure would be useful information to help understand more about Ao Dai The sixth, Methods and procedures to wear Ao Dai Take for examples of Hanbok dress of Korea, the order to wear as follows: short pants inside, long pants and shirt inside, Methods and procedures to wear Ao Dai, traditional Ao Dai, new style Ao Dai details like the above is one thing that all research should be done The seventh, when wearing Ao Dai the point to keep in mind Usually, people are not sitting on back of Ao Dai or not make it wrinkle, but why there is not document to explain it Mabe we'll find a sense of how to wear Ao Dai if there is a specific study, explains The last point, in the past, the North and South divide the country into two separate, modes of living, customs, costumes of two regions are different If explore the literature on Ao Dai by the North, Central and South will find the costume features of each region and each ethnic group 76 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com REFERENCES < Vietnam's Documents > Phan Kế Bính(1992) , Việt Nam phong tục , NXB TP.Hồ Chí Minh, Hồ Chí Minh Tơn Thất Bình(2006), Kể Chuyện Chín Chúa Mười Ba Vua Triều Nguyễn, Nxb Trẻ, Hồ Chí Minh Phạm Văn Đồng(1994) , Văn hóa Đổi , NXB Hà Nội:Bộ Văn hóaThơng tin, Hà Nội Huỳnh Thu Dung(2006) , Thời trang áo dài , NXB Phụ Nữ, Hà Nội Giáo Trình Đào Tạo Cử Nhân(2006) , Văn Hóa ẩm thực trang phục truyền thống người việt , NXB Đại Học Quốc Gia Hà Nội, Hà Nội Nguyễn Văn Huyền(1996) , Gốp phầp nghiên cứu văn hóa Việt Nam , NXB Khoa học Xã 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skknchat@gmail.com 29 김희정(2004) , 별건곤을 중심으로 본 신여성의 복장에 관한 연구 제 12 권 제 호 통권 49 호 p211~223 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 30 김홍구 외(2001) , 동남아 인간과 문화 , NXB 부산외국어대학교 31 국제한국학회(1999) , 실크 로드와 한국문화 , NXB 소나무 32 고정민/채금석(1999) , 생활한복에 대한 의식구조와 선호도에 따른 디자인 연구 한국의류학회지 86(’99.7) pp.654~666 1738-4524 KCI , 한국의류학회 33 라미라(1992) , 민족의상:창작 형태에 따른 세계 여러 나라의 민속의상 , 라사라 교육 개발 연구원 34 박장식 외(1997) , 동남아와의 사회와 문화 , NXB 오름 35 배양수 외(1999) , 베트남의 이해 , NXB 부산외국어대학교 36 부썬투이(2002) , 베트남 언론인의 생생한 현지 리포트 베트남 베트남 사람들, NXB 대원사 37 소황옥(2000) , 백의 복식 착용의 비교연구 : 한∙중∙월을 중심으로 비교민속학 제 18 집 pp.75~84 1598-1010 KCI, 비교민속학회 38 송정남(2010) , 베트남 역사 읽기 , NXB 한국 외국어 대학교 39 심수현(2007) , 한국적 전통미를 활용한 패션 디자인의 명품화 연구, 숙명여자대학원 석사논문 40 이웅규/김기창(2003) , 세계의 민속문화 , NXB 대왕사 41 쓰지하라 야스오(2007) , [문화와 역사가 담긴] 옷 이야기 동서양의 옷에 얽힌 뜻밖의 문화사 , NXB 혜문서관 42 에두아르트 푹스(1986) , 풍속의 역사 부르조아의 시대 , NXB 까치출판사 43 이정미 / 조진숙(2006) , 검은색 의상의 이미지 연구 복식문화연구 제 14 권 제 호 통권 61 호 p247~259 1226-0401 KCI, 복식문화학회 79 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 44 이자연(2001) , 카디 운동을 통해서 본 복식의 의미에 관한 연구 복식문화연구 30(2001.2) pp.1-10 1226-0401 KCI, 복식문화학회 45 이지현(2009) , 근현대 한국 여성 복식에 나타난 여성 성역할 변화 연구 복식문화연구 제 17 권 제 호 통권 80 호(2009.6) pp.431~446 1226-0141 KCI, 복식문화학회 46 이현정(2007) , 한브랜드의 세계화를 위한 패션 사진의 한국적 이미지 연구 , 숙명여자대학교 석사논문 47 임은혁(2011) , 한국복식과 서구복식에 나타난 몸과 복식에 관한 전통적인 시각 비교 복식문화연구 제 19 권 제 호 통권 92 호(2011.6) pp.501~517 1226-0401 KCI, 복식문화학회 48 임홍재(2010) , 베트남 견문록 , NXB 김영사 49 유인선(1995) , 베트남 전통사회와 유교화문제, 그리고 우리의 베트남사 연구 동양사학연구 50(’95.4) pp129~144 1598-4680 KCI, NXB 동양사학회 50 유혜경/홍나영,이주현/김찬주(1998) , 아시아 전통문화 양식의 전개 과정에 관한 비교 문화 연구(제 보)_근대 동남아시아 민속복식을 중심으로 한국의류학회지 81(’98.11) pp.1043-1051 1738-4524 KCI, 한국의류학회 51 유 상 / 장정임 / 이연희(2011) , 현대 패션 디자인에 나타난 치파오의 디자인 특성_2000~2009 년 여성 컬렉션을 중심으로 복식문화연구 제 19 권 제 호 통권 91 호(2011.4) pp.296~308 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 52 유인선(2002) , 새로 쓴 베트남의 역사 , NXB 이산 53 유인선(1996) , 전근대 베트남사회의 양계적 성격과 여성의 지위 역사학보 150(’96.6) pp.215~248 1225-1615 KCI, 역사학회 80 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 54 오 탁/이효진(2006) , 중국 현대 복식에 나타난 소수 민족 복식의 특징 복식문화연구 제 14 권 제 호 통권 65 호(2006.12) pp.956~970 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 55 전혜경(1993) , 베트남 문학작품에 나타난 베트남 여성상_20 세기 전반기를 중심으로 아시아문화 제 권 pp.109~126 1255-2034, 한림대학교 아시아문화연구소 56 정영규(2003) , 동남 아시아 사회와 문화 , NXB 율곡출판사 57 정현숙(2004) , 1920 년대와 1960 년대의 패션에 나타난 유사성에 관한 연구 복식문화연구 제 12 권 제 호 통권 49 호(2004.4) pp.224~238 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 58 정해선/강경자(2006) , 패션 컬렉션에 나타난 모자와 패션 이미지에 대한 조형성 분석 복식문화연구 제 14 권 제 호 통권 60 호(2006.2) pp.64~78 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 59 조경희(1984) , 세계패션의 흐름에 나타난 실루엣과 경제와의 관계 연구_1910 년부터 1970 년까지의 여성복 중심으로 , 이화여자대학교 석사논문 60 조영란/이금희(2008) , 20 세기 전반기 중국 여성복의 변천에 관한 연구 복식문화연구 제 16 권 제 호 통권 75 호(2008.8) pp.661~680 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 61 조영란/이금희(2008) , 서구 문화의 유입에 따른 중국 여성 복식의 변화와 그 유형에 대한 연구_20 세기 전반기를 중심으로 복식문화연구 제 16 권 제 호 통권 76 호(2008.10) pp.891~909 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 62 조흥국(2009) , 한국과 동남아시아의 교류사 , NXB 소나무 63 채금석(2007) , 세계 패션의 흐름 , NXB 지구문화사 64 최기원(2007) , 연상 네트워크 기억모델을 통한 맥주브랜드에 표현된 국가이미지에 관한 연구 , 한약대학교 석사논문 81 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 65 최경희(2007) , Foucault 의 후기 구조주의적 시각에서 본 19 세기 패션에 표현된 성_19 세기 중후반 남녀 주류 패션과 반패션에 나타난 여성성과 남성성을 중심으로 복식문화연구 제 15 권 제 호 통권 67 호(2007.4) pp.232~251 1226-0401 KCI , 복식문화학회 66 최병욱(2003) , 19 세기 남부베트남의 여성상: ‘음탕함’과 그 함의 동남아시아연구 13 권 호 pp.165~198 1229-6899 KCI , 한국동남아학회 67 팀 에덴서(2008) , 대중 문화와 일상 그리고 민족 정체성 제 부 물질문화와 민족 정체성, NXB 이후 68 하순(1994) , 베트남의 가족제도와 베트남인의 사회적 행위 , 외대논문 제 12 권(’94.2) pp.387-401, NXB 부산외국어대학교 69 한홍렬 외(1999) , 전환기 베트남의 문화적 정체성, 국토지리학회지 제 33 권 호 (1999.12) pp.243~263 1225-3766KCI, NXB 국토지리학회 70 홍나영(2004) , 아시아 전통복식 , NXB 교문사 71 황춘섭(1997) , 세계 전통 복식 , NXB 수학사 72 Tran Ngoc Them(2000) , 베트남인의 상징 아오자이(Ao dai)와 논 라(Non la) 베트남 연구 (2000.11) pp231-251 2005-5331, 한국베트남학회 < Online Documentation > 73 Can not find the name of the author, black and white image on girls Saigon 1960 (P2), http://giaoduc.net.vn, http://giaoduc.net.vn/Utilities/PrintView.aspx?ID=186054 , 29-06-2012 74 Can not find the name of the author,Vietnamese Ao Dai on long way, http://www.thanglongkydao.com, http://www.thanglongkydao.com/goc-mynhan/10106- gai-dep-3-mien.html , 11/2010 82 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com 75 Nguyen Ta Cuc, designer gowns first in Vietnam early 1930: Nguyễn Cát Tường, http://www.nghiasinh.org/, http://www.nghiasinh.org/?mode=noisan_chitiet&id_bv=333&PHPSESSID= 6c3147e9c68f5 ad94e5836780ded6a07, 07-23-2011 76 Tran Thi Lai Hong, Fashion and history? http://sangtao.org/2012/02/29/thoitrang-va-lich-su/ , 29-02-2012 77 Huong Kieu Loan, Ao Dai Vietnam through the ages, http://phuc_tranduc.violet.vn, http://phuc_tranduc.violet.vn/entry/show/cat_id/112128/entry_id/4544390, 08-12 -2010 78 Lou , Try to find out easter and national dress of our country, http://www.ahvinhnghiem.org , http://www.ahvinhnghiem.org/nguyentruongto/LePhucvaQuocPhuc.html , 25-01-2011 79 Nguyen Thi Chan Quynh, past and present of Ao dai , http://www.aimoo.com, http://forum4.aimoo.com/aitubinhdien/m/V-258-NH-211-A-X-195-H-7896-I/o-d-i-x-a-v-nay-_-Nguy-n-Th-Ch-n-Qu-nh-1539277.html, 15-05-2011 80 Theo Blog Dung_Nguyen_design/VTC, Vietnamese Ao dai-The period, http://dulichmiendatla.com, http://dulichmiendatla.com/index.php?nv=news&op=Trang- phuc/Ao-daiViet-Nam-Cac-thoi-ky-109, 19-11-2011 83 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com APPENDIX PHOTO 1.1 Dong Son bronze drum (left) Drawing on the drum, shown wearing Loin-cloth at the time of people (right) PHOTO 1.2 Hai Ba Trung: Can not determine the exact this Photo drawn from that time But through this Photo, the traditional clothing shape was worn PHOTO 1.3 Man were wearing Loincloth in the Photo 84 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com PHOTO 1.4 Ao Yem PHOTO 1.5 Ao giao linh PHOTO 1.6 Ao Tu Than PHOTO 1.7 Ao Nam Than 85 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com PHOTO 1.8 Qi Pao PHOTO 1.9 Traditional Dresses PHOTO 1.10 Vietnamese girls with traditional dress outfits 86 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com < AO DAI ACCESSORIES > PHOTO 1.11 Traditional necklace PHOTO 1.12 Traditional (Làm mũ đội đầu) (Kiềng) PHOTO 1.13 Traditional hat (Mũ đội đầu) 87 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com [Characterized classification chart by each Vietnam traditional dress] Category Characteristics ∙ North women's traditional costume ∙ The shape only found in Vietnam YEM ∙ Also known as covering belly and breasts ∙ Colors depending on the class and age, the elder wearing dark , young people wearing bright, in urban wearing pink or white , in the countryside wearing dark ∙ Started since the Hung Vuong ∙ Very suitable for the hot climate of the tropics should be both men and women, Southeast Asian wear VAY ∙ Secret Skirts (Underground skirts), and opening Skirts (wrap skirt) ∙ Enclosed shirt is a compound consisting of two pieces of fabric skirt front, back together to create a kind of clothes in the middle, using a belt tied at the waist ∙ Open shirt is a dress consisting of a large piece of cloth wrapped at the waist ∙ As the oldest kind of clothes every day ∙ The men's clothing worn below KHO ∙ It is possible that long or more strips of cloth wrapped (The last of the Kho released the front or back) ∙ Very cool so suitable for hot climate ∙ Clothing for men, irrespective of rich and poor, high and low situation There is no accurate documentation of the development ∙ Start first put into use in the South at that time after King Le ∙ Ao Ba Ba: In the North with Ao Canhm in the Southern with Ao Ba Ba AO NGAN ∙ In the past, in the Mekong Delta region, southern rural areas, because use washing machine, so they dyed black fabric to dry fast and select the type of material ∙ Wear dark colors to work, when you go out dressed in white or gray, or light ∙ Round collars and no buttons ∙ As the most ancient Ao Dai AO ∙ Was similar to Ao Tu Than but two front body not required GIAO ∙ Wearing Yem and black dress inside, combined with wide waist LINH ∙ bun hair or wrapped around the head, hat or constraints (The ancient used barefoot, carried wooden clogs, shoes, sandals) 88 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com ∙ Appeared under the influence of China's Qi Pao ∙ Was the typical costume of Kinh Bac area AO TU THAN ∙ Started from the age of Nguyen emperor, which was worn by middle class and mandarins ∙ Was more popular than Ao Nam Than ∙ Made from body fabric ∙ front no buttons ∙ forequarters leave or use rubber belts ∙ The belt is called the "Ruot tuong"( was used as a bag of money or other sundries) ∙ Appeared from King Gia Long ∙ Improved from Ao Tu Than AO ∙ Typical Clothes of the northern region (A combination of the buttons method and length to the heel of Ao Tu Than) NAM ∙ Worn by Even by middle class and mandarins THAN ∙ Basic shape of the first new style Ao Dai of the 20th century ∙ Depended on the region (Hanoi, Hue, Saigon) which has its own unique color ∙ Left flap with width is double right flap (large fragment called Vat Ca, small pieces called Vat con) ∙ appeared in the 1930s, was converted from traditional Ao Dai ∙ The era of artist Le Pho and designer Cat Tuong ∙ Is clothes were converted from traditional clothes western in introduction of Western civilization AO DAI ∙ In the past, wearing in events, holidays, tet, going out ∙ Restricted to wear about 10 years after the war ∙ After the period of reform, wearing in offices or using as uniform ∙ Discreet clothes but still show off curves of girls' body wearing it ∙ A type of Ao Dai for men ∙ In the past, people only wear when attend events AO THE (Only the upper classes in urban as daily wear regularly) ∙ Currently, almost no longer used ∙ The dress is made up of three parts: the top, bottom, waist (Belts also be considered as a kind of clothes, there are many designs) 89 TIEU LUAN MOI download : skknchat@gmail.com ... works of famous French designers such as Christian Lacroix and Claude Montana 52 ? ?Áo Dài, biểu trưng văn hóa Việt Nam? ??, http://blog.naver.com/lsc7379?Redirect=Log&logNo=20015765075, 12.08.2005 36... skknchat@gmail.com 3.2.3 Unprecedented beauty 60 3.3 Vietnamese Ao Dai in comparison with Korean’s Hanbok 60 3.3.1 Brief introduction about Korean’s Hanbok 60 3.3.2 Comparison between Ao Dai and... Tinh, "Vietnam's Costume (Vietnamese people), second edition and adds," (Arts Publisher, 2006) Text of Training the Bachelor, "food culture and traditional costumes of the Vietnamese", (Vietnam National