Microsoft Word 1 QA Manual Apr 2016 Page 1 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 Gap Inc Quality Assurance Manual Apparel Categories June 2017 Page 2 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA.
Gap Inc. Quality Assurance Manual Apparel Categories June 2017 Page 1 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS 2 1 INTRODUCTION AND SCOPE 3 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 2 INTRODUCTION 3 PURPOSE 3 POLICY ON QUALITY 3 SCOPE . 3 CONTACTS 4 2.1 3 4 5 6 7 GIS OFFICES 4 LINE REVIEW MEETINGS 5 LIGHT SOURCE REQUIREMENTS PER BRAND 6 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING 7 PILOT RUN 8 IN PROCESS CONTROL 9 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 8 IN‐PROCESS PURPOSE 9 IN‐PROCESS INSPECTION FORMS . 9 CUTTING/KNITTING INSPECTION PROCEDURES . 9 TRIM & SEWING INSPECTION PROCEDURES 9 PROCESS VALIDATION 10 FINAL SHIPMENT AUDITS 11 8.1 9 FINAL INSPECTION FORMS . 11 ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL) 12 9.1 9.2 9.3 9.4 10 10.1 10.2 10.3 11 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 11.5 12 13 14 15 16 16.1 16.2 16.3 16.4 AQL STANDARDS 12 CRITICAL DEFECTS 13 MAJOR VISUAL DEFECTS 13 VISUAL AUDIT SAMPLING PLANS 14 VISUAL AUDIT PROCEDURE FOR SAMPLE SIZES . 15 CRITICAL DEFECTS/ MAJOR DEFECTS 15 MINOR DEFECTS 16 POINTS OF MEASURE 16 MEASUREMENT AUDIT PROCEDURE 17 DETERMINING THE ACCEPTANCE OF A MEASUREMENT AUDIT . 17 MEASUREMENT AUDIT SAMPLING PLANS 18 VENDOR MANAGED INVENTORY (VMI) AUDIT PROCEDURES 18 PRODUCTION LOT AND DPO AUDITS 18 MEASURING THE WEIGHT OF SWEATERS 19 PACK AUDIT REQUIREMENTS 20 IN MARKET ISSUE FOLLOW UP . 21 SECONDS AND OVERRUNS . 22 COMMUNICATION AND RECORDS 23 PRODUCT SAFETY POLICY . 24 BACKGROUND 24 SCOPE 24 NEEDLES & FOREIGN METAL CONTAMINATION . 24 WAIVERS & ESCALATIONS 24 Page 2 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 1.1 INTRODUCTION AND SCOPE INTRODUCTION This Quality Assurance Manual for Vendors is developed by Gap Inc. as a supplement to the Vendor Handbook and outlines the quality expectations of all apparel products. The requirements have been carefully established considering ongoing business conditions and Gap Inc.’s constant desire to excel in the quality of the product they design and develop. Gap Inc.’s Quality Assurance program is not intended to replace the vendor’s own quality control program as Gap Inc. expects its vendors and suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality to enable them to deliver products that comply with all Gap Inc.’s requirements. This culture must begin with vendor management’s commitment to develop a quality organization and to embrace a proactive approach to drive continuous improvement in product quality. Gap Inc. expects vendors to particularly focus on following areas: Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are working and effective. Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts. Ensuring that manufacturing processes are stable, capable, and under control at all times and are producing defect free products. Ensuring that adequate in‐process inspections and testing are in place to monitor quality. Documenting systems, processes, procedures, etc. to maintain effective operations. Creating open, honest and timely communication with Gap Inc.’s sourcing offices. 1.2 PURPOSE The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to communicate product quality requirements to vendors, suppliers and agents as it outlines the policies, procedures and quality expectations. Vendors, suppliers and agents that do business with Gap Inc. must be familiar with the contents of this manual and the Appendix worksheets and forms. Certain chapters are written to outline procedures for Gap Inc.’s internal teams. However, the vendor may use it to train their QA teams or use it in any manner to supplement their QA processes. 1.3 POLICY ON QUALITY Gap Inc.’s policies on quality of apparel products are developed by defining various measures and by setting standards that vendors are required to meet or exceed when shipping every purchase order to Gap Inc. 1.4 SCOPE This manual deals with quality requirements of apparel products only. This manual is also a useful resource for Gap Inc.’s internal Process Quality Assurance, Vendor Management and Technical teams. The term “Auditor” mentioned in this manual is applicable to GIS PQA representative, factory Designated Auditor or 3rd Party Auditors. This manual is the property of Gap Inc. While in your company’s possession, this manual is to be maintained in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of dealing with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The manual needs to be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon termination of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.’s request. Page 3 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 CONTACTS For any questions or clarification on this manual, please contact your regional PQA leaders at the GIS offices listed below. 2.1 GIS OFFICES GIS Hong Kong 20‐22/F, BEA Tower, Millennium City 5 / 418 Kwun Tong Road, Kwun Tong / Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: 852.2730.9883 Fax: 852.2730.5466 GIS India Gap International Sourcing (India) Pvt. Ltd. 201, DLF South Court, 1st Floor Saket, New –Delhi ‐110017 Tel: 91‐11‐41822222 Fax: 91‐11‐41630228 Page 4 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 LINE REVIEW MEETINGS Participants: GIS Vendor Management, Category Tech and Vendor/Factory. Time Frame: Within 2 weeks after order placement. Exceptions may apply due to scheduling conflicts, but the meeting should be prior to the Pre‐Production sample submission from the factory. 1) Review any potential call outs in construction, product safety and performance (by Category Tech) in each style before the Pre‐ Production Meeting. 2) Identify high risk styles by following criteria: a High‐risk fabrications with production complexity: Brand new fabrics Frequently issued fabrics Chronically failed fabrics High shrinkage Special washes b Construction and wash complexity: Design complexity Special embellishment techniques New or difficult wash requirements c Factory capability and capacity: No related technical experience Machinery limitations Buyer requirements d Previous quality issues happened for similar styles in that factory. e A high percentage of the construction needs additional QC systems in place for process control. f High manual work in which consistency is difficult to maintain. 3) In development, conduct testing on concerned specifications of high risk styles: a) This is requested by Category Tech after the line review 4) Line Review Report (also known as High Risk Style Report) is issued by GIS VM/Vendor with comments from GIS Category Tech to relevant PQA, Vendor and Factory. PQA will follow up with the factory in the PPM and Pilot. The Line Review Report (also known as High Risk Style Report) can be accessed at: GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports: 13a Line Review ‐ Korea High Risk Style Report 13b Line Review – Apparel High Risk Style Report 13c Line Review – Non‐apparel High Risk Style Report 13d Line Review – Product Safety Kid and Baby Report For details: Please refer to: GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → GIS Line Review Guideline Page 5 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 LIGHT SOURCE REQUIREMENTS PER BRAND Please refer to below document on detail requirements for light source requirement: GAP Source Library → Color Information → Color Services SOP’s → Gap Inc Color SOP → Section 1.0 color equipment requirement s: SOP Page 6 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 PRE PRODUCTION MEETING Please refer to below documents on detail procedures: GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Appendix I – Critical POM’s GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Appendix II – Defect Classification GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Appendix III – QAS data entry guideline for GIS GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Apparel PPM Guideline GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Wet Processing PPM Guideline GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Gap Inc. Needle and Foreign Metal Contamination Policy ‐ PSR SOP 008 GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Non Apparel QA Guideline GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Jewelry Audit Guideline GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Pre‐Production Meeting Report. Meeting details should be entered into the QAS system within 1‐2 days (https://portal.gap.com/qas/qas/start.action). In order to have complete information to conduct the Pre Production meeting, you also need the below documents: 10 GAP Source Library → Product Guideline and Testing → How to Measure 11 GAP Source Library → General Information → Vendor Handbook → Packing Page 7 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 PILOT RUN The Pilot Run is for order quantity of more than 1000 pieces per style. Please refer the detail procedures at GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Manual SOP Guideline → Pilot Run Guideline The form can be accessed at GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Pilot In‐Process Report and enter the details into the QAS system (https://portal.gap.com/qas/qas/start.action) using the QAS report format. For order quantity less than 1000 pieces, the factory should conduct the In‐Process Audit for the first bulk log accordingly to ensure bulk quality. Page 8 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 IN PROCESS CONTROL 7.1 IN‐PROCESS PURPOSE The purpose of an In‐Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing, wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot size is a bundle. For sweater production, the first In‐Process inspection begins when knitting commences. While inspecting semi‐finished goods and batches during work‐in‐process, the Auditor must keep records and/or photos on the defects found for discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS VM. The Auditor should ensure a correct standard is followed and in‐house QC is checking effectively, production supervisors are monitoring quality and delivery effectively to meet both quality and delivery targets. The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In‐Process reports. It is not the purpose of the In‐Process inspection to try to measure the percentage of defective, but to identify potential problems that arise during these operations. The In‐Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation to help driving improvements in the operations. 7.2 IN‐PROCESS INSPECTION FORMS At the relevant In‐Process Inspection stages, Auditors will use the following forms: 7.2.1 In‐Process Inspection Worksheet is for Factory QA internal use only. Access at GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → In‐Process Audit Worksheet. 7.2.2 In‐Process Audit Report – for DA and GIS PQA. Access at: GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Pilot/In‐Process Report, and enter inspection results into the QAS system (https://portal.gap.com/qas/qas/start.action). Please note these forms must be used as it is during the In‐Process Inspection. If there are any questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact the GIS PQA leader in your region. 7.3 CUTTING/KNITTING INSPECTION PROCEDURES The following are QA procedures when performing an In‐Process cutting inspection: 7.3.1 Verify and record fabric/yarn test reports. 7.3.2 After cutting, perform visual and measurement inspections (i.e. hard pattern vs. top/middle/bottom cut pieces) and record in reports. For knitting, perform regular tension checking and 100% visual audit on knitting defects and patterns. 7.3.3 Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management. 7.3.4 If the factory can not correct the problem in time to catch original delivery, the GIS VM should be contacted for corrective action. 7.3.5 If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standards, color, etc. arise, the GIS VM should be contacted for alternative options. 7.4 TRIM & SEWING INSPECTION PROCEDURES The following are QA procedures when performing an In‐Process inspection: All fabrics/yarn, components, trims, and labels should be checked against production approved standards, and must reflect correct country of origin, fibers and component contents. Review and record all required Gap Inc. fabric/ component/product test reports. Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed. Check to make sure that all components, trims, and labels are available to meet production schedules. Perform random checks on sewing lines and finishing department. Verify factory is inspecting at least five pieces of each operator’s semi‐finished goods to check workmanship defects. Record the findings on the In‐Process Audit Worksheet as per section 7.2.1. Look for “Recurring Defects” to avoid high defect or rejection rate. Check hand feel and color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send relevant VM examples of fabric colors and range of shades. Page 9 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 7.5 PROCESS VALIDATION For Full empowerment factories, GIS PQA will conduct process validation for the overall Quality System and FKR/DA’s performance regularly and issue CAP for VKR/FKR to follow up in order to improve factory’s QA process and ensure bulk quality consistency. This is an unannounced audit and FKR should always have all the MRPs and WIPs of current production available in order to facilitate GIS PQA’s audit on site. PQA will take photos for all his/her findings and have a closing meeting with FKR listing all the observations and items for corrections. Page 10 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 FINAL SHIPMENT AUDITS The purpose of a Final Shipment Audit is to determine the quality of the products by its visual appearance, measurement to specifications and packing execution. The Final Shipment Audit must be performed before the finished product is shipped. This is done in order to minimize the risk of shipping defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other designated locations. In order for the Auditors to proceed with the Final Inspection, relevant POs should be 100% packed. 8.1 FINAL INSPECTION FORMS At the relevant shipment inspection stage, forms can be accessed at: a GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Measurement Work Sheet b GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Shipment Inspection Report c GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Packing Audit worksheet d GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Seconds, Overruns and Thirds Disposal De‐labeling Audit Form Report b) can be replaced by the QAS report at (https://portal.gap.com/qas/qas/start.action) Please note, forms a, b, c and d must be used as it is during the Final Inspection. If there are any questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact the GIS PQA leader of your region. Page 11 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL) The Acceptable Quality Level is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling inspection, is considered satisfactory as a manufacturing process average. The table below shows the AQL for each brand. Gap Inc. requires that vendors must meet or exceed these standards on every purchase order shipped to Gap Inc. 9.1 AQL STANDARDS TABLE 1: AQL STANDARDS FOR GAP, OLD NAVY & OUTLET ANSI/ASQC Zi.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan, Level I SAMPLING PLAN LEVEL CRITICAL DEFECTS MAJOR VISUAL DEFECTS MINOR VISUAL DEFECTS MEASUREMENT AUDIT* OCR/TICKET AUDIT GAP I 0.1 2.5 N/A 2.5 0.25 GO I 0.1 2.5 N/A 4.0 0.25 BRFS I 0.1 2.5 N/A 4.0 0.25 ON I 0.1 2.5 N/A 4.0 0.25 *REMARK: MINOR VISUAL DEFECTS ARE REMOVED. TABLE 2: AQL STANDARDS FOR BANANA REPUBLIC & ATHLETA ANSI/ASQC Zi.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan, Level II BR ATHLETA (INLUDING BR PERFORMANCE ITEMS) SAMPLING PLAN LEVEL CRITICAL DEFECTS MAJOR VISUAL DEFECTS MINOR VISUAL DEFECTS MEASUREMENT AUDIT* OCR/TICKET AUDIT II 0.1 2.5 N/A LEVEL I 2.5 0.25 II 0.1 1.5 N/A LEVEL I 2.5 0.25 *REMARK: MINOR VISUAL DEFECTS ARE REMOVED. Page 12 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 9.2 CRITICAL DEFECTS A Critical Defect is defined as anything that can potentially pose a hazard or cause an injury or be considered harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to, sharp points and edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful and/or may pose a hazard. Improper or inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) “snug fitting sleepwear” measurements that are greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects. For details on design restrictions for snug fitting children’s sleepwear, please refer to Section III on Flammability outlined in the Softlines Manual located on Gap Source Library (GSL). VISUAL CRITICAL DEFECTS To find Critical Defects pertaining to product safety, component content markings and country of origin, the method used is visual inspection. MEASUREMENT CRITICAL DEFECTS Please follow the “Critical POM for Final Audit” at GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Manual SOP Guideline To find Critical Defects pertaining to “snug fitting sleepwear”, the method used is the measurement audit. Measurement critical defects should be referred to Technical Bulletin 200 (Drawstrings and ties in children, toddler and infant wearing apparel and accessories) THE AQL FOR APPRAISING CRITICAL DEFECTS IS 0.1 If a critical defect is found either during visual inspection or during measurement of snug fitting sleepwear audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be re‐inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit. PROCEDURE FOR MEASUREMENT AUDIT OF “SNUG FITTING SLEEPWEAR” 1) Determine if the product is “snug fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the Tech Pack . It will state if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. On the measurement page of the Tech Pack governed by CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS. On the measurement page of the Tech Pack governed by CPSC the initials “CPSC” will be at the beginning of each point of measure description. 2) Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual. (Refer to the Measurement Audit Sampling Plan: Section 11.2). 3) Any CPSC regulated measurement ‐ those in CAPITAL LETTERS or with the CPSC at the beginning of the description ‐ that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will be considered a critical measurement defect. 4) Any CPSC regulated measurement ‐ those in CAPITAL LETTERS or with the CPSC at the beginning of the description ‐ that is greater than tolerance on the minus (‐) side will be considered a measurement defect. 5) The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1 and shipping decision should be made only when the audit is in compliance. 9.3 MAJOR VISUAL DEFECTS Visual defect is defined as a product flaw that prevents the product from realizing its full market value. There can be several reasons for visual defects and can be attributed to fabric defects, defective trims or components, poor workmanship, construction defects, poor housekeeping, poor handling, transportation damage, etc. Please review at GAP Source Library/ Quality Assurance / Quality Assurance Manual / Appendix 2: Classification of Visual Defects. Page 13 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 9.4 VISUAL AUDIT SAMPLING PLANS TABLE 3: VISUAL AUDIT SAMPLING PLAN FOR GAP, OLD NAVY, BRFS, & GAP OUTLET ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (I) Shipment Size Visuals Lot Sample Size Critical AQL 0.1 Pass/Fail 0‐150 151‐280 281‐500 501‐1,200 1,201‐3,200 3,201‐10,000 10,001‐35,000 35,001‐ UP 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 AQL 2.5 Pass/Fail 0/1 1/2 1/2 2/3 3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11 Ticket Check (OCR) AQL 0.25 Pass/Fail 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 0/1 1/2 1/2 AQL 4.0 Pass/Fail 1/2 1/2 2/3 3/4 5/6 7/8 10/11 14/15 TABLE 4: VISUAL AUDIT SAMPLING PLAN FOR BANANA REPUBLIC & ATHLETA. ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (II) Shipment size lot Sample Size Critical AQL 0.1 Pass Fail 0‐150 20 0 1 151‐280 32 0 1 281‐500 50 0 1 Visuals AQL 1.5 Pass Fail AQL 2.5 Pass Fail Ticket Check (OCR) AQL 0.25 Pass Fail 0 1 1 2 0 1 1 2 2 3 0 1 2 3 3 4 0 1 501 ‐ 1,200 80 0 1 3 4 5 6 0 1 1,201 ‐3,200 125 0 1 5 6 7 8 1 2 3,201 ‐ UP 200 0 1 7 8 10 11 1 2 Page 14 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 10 VISUAL AUDIT PROCEDURE FOR SAMPLE SIZES SAMPLE SIZE FOR AUDITING The sample size that is to be used for auditing will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used. The lot size is the total number of units in a given shipment. Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes and colors. In such cases, samples should be drawn based on the ratio of each size and color to the total units in that shipment. When multiple purchase orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on a sample taken from this combination. However, if the audit fails, all purchase orders will fail, and if it passes, all purchase orders will pass. The Auditor should ensure that none of the defects found are from a particular purchase order, color or size where a high defect percentage are found when compared to the relative AQL level used. Additional sampling quantity is needed to determine if the particular purchase order, color or size failed. Visual audit procedures: From left to right (sleeve to sleeve) From top to bottom (collar to hem) From outside to inside (To check the inside of the garment, open the buttons or zippers, examine 4 inches from armhole/ crotch/hem and all the labels. It’s not necessary to turn garment all inside out unless there is special requirement.) Key attachment inspections (embroidery, print, etc.) Functional trim inspections (snaps, zippers, buttons, hook and bar, etc.) Study the overall balance 10.1 CRITICAL DEFECTS/ MAJOR DEFECTS For all the kids/baby and intimate styles shipped to all countries or all products shipped to Japan, the whole shipment should go through the needle detection and record in the needle detection log book. Inspectors should request for this record for review before the inspection. If factory fail to submit this record, they should either scan the whole shipment or rectify the record if the shipment is scanned but the record is not updated. During this audit any defects listed in the Appendix II, Defect Classification, as a critical defect, inspectors should reject the whole shipment when one piece of critical defects is found. For any defects as described below or listed in the Appendix II defect classification will be counted as major: 1) Incorrect size strip (e.g. 31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants) 2) Incorrect flasher 3) Incorrect logo label (wrong size) 4) Incorrect non‐OCR (BARCODED) price ticket (These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials (BOM) as to item number and size) 5) More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect 6) Above items are coordinated by size and style LABELING Incorrect country of origin and/or incorrect fiber content label on any portion of the shipment will result in failure of the shipment. OCR AUDIT Any trim that contains OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the visual auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Shipment Inspection Report (Appendix I, form #8). When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction. SHADE VARIATION If shade variations occur within a shipment, the GIS vendor management team must be notified and samples should be sent for approval. The vendor should also re‐inspect 100% and sort units by shade band. The results of shade variation observed during re‐inspection must be reported to the GIS/VM team for a decision. If the vendor management team requests that the shades be separated then all cartons should Page 15 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 be checked and accordingly segregated for different shades. In general, shading within one garment or shading garments in one carton box is rejected unless there is exceptional approval from GAP. 10.2 MINOR DEFECTS Effective from Jan 1, 2016, Gap Inc. removes minor visual defects from AQL, which means all minor defects are counted as major. 10.3 POINTS OF MEASURE The Auditor needs to measure the POM listed at “Critical Points of Measure for Final audits” for the measumrent AQL sampling sizes. For other POMs, the auditor should base on visual judgment to determine if it is acceptable or not. Path on GSL → Quality Assurance → Quality Assurance Manuals, SOPs and Guidelines → Critical POMs Page 16 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 11 MEASUREMENT AUDIT PROCEDURE Measurement Defects While performing a shipment audit, all measurements that are out of tolerance are considered “Measurement Defects.” Procedure for Measurement Audit: Measurements should be taken on products after washing, after pressing and sometimes before packing. Fiberglass tapes must be used to conduct all measurements, except in some cases for sweaters, where metal rulers are preferred. Vinyl and plastic tape measures are prohibited. 1) Fiberglass tape measures should be calibrated using a metal ruler. 2) Vendor’s in‐house QA supervisor must calibrate the QA/DA fiberglass tape measures monthly. 3) All calibrations should be recorded and dated for reference as requested by Gap Inc. PQA 4) Select samples at random covering all sizes all colors in the PO. 5) Measure products at critical measurement points – see separate document on Gap Source Library to determine critical points of measure by category and product type ( Please refer to the Critical POM for Final Audit on GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → All the QA Forms & Reports → Critical POM’s). 6) Highlight all measurement defects but make sure that a product with more than one measurement defect is counted as one defect only 11.1 DETERMINING THE ACCEPTANCE OF A MEASUREMENT AUDIT Acceptance is based on the AQL (See AQL Standards Tables #1, 2, 5) pass/fail levels for measurement defects. Accept An audit is considered acceptable when total numbers of measurement defects is less than or equal to the number of defects allowed (see guideline and calculations below) Fail An audit is considered failed when total numbers of measurement defects exceed the number of defects allowed (see guideline and calculations below) EXCEPTIONS The above criteria do not apply to the children’s “snug fitting sleepwear” program as it is governed by the CPSC Children’s Snug Fitting Sleepwear Regulations. Page 17 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 11.2 MEASUREMENT AUDIT SAMPLING PLANS Table 5: Sampling Plan for Measurement and Pass/Fail Chart ANSI/ASQC S1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) Measurements Shipment size lot Samples size 0‐150 151‐280 281‐500 501 ‐ 1,200 Critical AQL 0.1 AQL 2.5 Pass Fail Pass 8 0 1 0 13 0 1 20 0 32 Fail AQL 4.0 AQL 6.5 Ticket Check (OCR) AQL 0.25 Pass Fail Pass Fail Pass Fail 1 1 2 1 2 0 1 1 2 1 2 2 3 0 1 1 1 2 2 3 3 4 0 1 0 1 2 3 3 4 5 6 0 1 1,201 ‐3,200 50 0 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 0 1 3,201 ‐ 10,000 80 0 1 5 6 7 8 10 11 0 1 10,001 ‐ 35,000 125 0 1 7 8 10 11 14 15 1 2 35,001 ‐ UP 200 0 1 10 11 14 15 21 22 1 2 11.3 VENDOR MANAGED INVENTORY (VMI) AUDIT PROCEDURES Auditor should ensure they have the updated MRP to perform all the PPM, Pilot, In‐line and Final Shipment inspections. All the approved samples/trim cards/test reports are valid for maximum 6 months only and needs to be updated accordingly. PPM for VMI orders should be performed at least once per six months to ensure the factory has the latest information. Auditors should perform Final Shipment inspection once the shipment is ready. Final Audit for the VMI shipment is valid for two weeks only. If the shipment is stored for a long period of time in the warehouse before delivery, the Auditor should review the cartons and pull 1‐2 cartons from the longest storage period to ensure the product inside is still in good condition in both visual and measurement before delivery. All audits must pass current measurement, visual, OCR, and packing standards as per our established sampling tables before shipping to Gap Inc. distribution centers (DC’s). 11.4 PRODUCTION LOT AND DPO AUDITS For VMI styles, Measurement, Visual, and OCR audits are performed on production lots versus DPO’s because the units are ready earlier than the actual ship dates. If there is any rework or reprocessing, this allows the vendor the time needed to make the appropriate corrections preventing delay of shipments. Production lots are defined as units that are ready to be packed with appropriate size and quantity breakdowns. Packing audits are performed at the DPO level verifying counts, labeling, and assortment accuracy. Page 18 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 11.5 MEASURING THE WEIGHT OF SWEATERS Gap, GAP Outlet, Banana Republic Factory Store, Old Navy and Athleta Sweaters: Three pieces of the median size per color (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed. The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight per sweater. Banana Republic Sweaters: Sweaters of every size per color in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based on the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures: 1) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L). 2) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weight them individually and record the results for the interim audit report. 3) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividing by four (4). 4) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the following manner: (avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x size ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x size ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “m” x size ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /six (6) = overall weight of sweater. Sweater Weight Audit Acceptance Criteria 1) Follow the tolerance in the Tech Pack Measurement Sheet. If it is not available, in general, +/‐ 5% weight tolerance is acceptable. 2) If the overall sweater weight per color is less from tolerance from approved sweater weight, the respective color shipment is rejected. 3) If the overall sweater weight per color is over the tolerance from the approved sweater weight and the hand feel is not as the approved standard, the respective color shipment is failed. 4) If the overall sweater weight per color is over from tolerance from the approved sweater weight while the hand feel and measurement is passed, it is passed. Page 19 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 12 PACK AUDIT REQUIREMENTS The final inspection is required to perform the packing audit to determine packing accuracy compliance. The shipment is to be checked for assortment accuracy, counts verification, and labeling accuracy. This is the final audit before goods are shipped. PACK AUDIT DEFECTS INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING 1) Incorrect quantity 2) Carton labeling errors 3) Incorrect Pre‐Pack i) Assortments ii) Amounts iii) Pre‐Pack Stickers 4) Carton not as specified (size and construction) 5) Crushed or damaged cartons 6) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons PACK AUDIT PROCEDURE 1) Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Pack Audit Sample Plan (see Table 14). 2) In case the visual and measurement audit samples quantity cannot meet with the above packed audit carton sample size quantity, auditor should pull more cartons. For multiple packing and shipping countries combined audit, please make sure minimum there is one carton check per packing method and shipping country. 3) If the Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct the problems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to correct the issues found in the audit. A re‐audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing errors were corrected. The pack audit result should be recorded in GAP Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Assurance Manual → QA Forms and Reports → Packing audit worksheet. 4) Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Shipment Inspection Report. 5) If the problems found create shipping delays, notify the GIS VM for decision. 6) For each Full Carton Purchase Order, Vendor should follow up as per pack factor in PO and ensure all the cartons are full packed without space inside. In case there is adjustment of pack factor upon bulk production, factory should notify GIS VM team for approval and revision of the PO. 7) Should vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the vendor to pay for any special handling required later in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.’s distribution centers. TABLE 7: AQL AND SAMPLING PLAN FOR PACK AUDIT FOR AUDITOR: ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level II ‐ 0.65 AQL Pack Audit Sample Plan ‐ AQL 0.65 # of cartons 5‐15 16‐50 51‐90 91‐150 151‐280 281‐500 501‐1,200 1,200‐ UP Sample Size 3 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 Pass 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 2 Fail 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 Page 20 of 24 Gap International Sourcing QA Manual June 2017 ... be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose of dealing with? ?Gap? ?Inc. or its vendors. The manual needs to be returned to? ?Gap? ?Inc. immediately upon termination of your dealings with? ?Gap? ?Inc. or its vendors, or upon? ?Gap? ?Inc.’s request. ... GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Wet Processing PPM Guideline GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines →? ?Gap? ?Inc. Needle and Foreign Metal Contamination Policy ‐ PSR SOP 008 GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → Quality Manuals SOP Guidelines → Non Apparel QA Guideline ... a GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Measurement Work Sheet b GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Shipment Inspection Report c GAP? ?Source Library → Quality Assurance → QA Forms and Reports → Packing Audit worksheet