CREAMY BROCCOLIPARMESAN SOUP This creamy soup relies on the thickening and emulsifying power of a roux—cooked flour and butter—to give it a creamy consistency without the need for heavy cream, which can dull flavors For a long, long time, drab armygreen vegetables got a bad rap, but I’m trying to bring sexy back to thoroughly cooked broccoli (and green beans) There are definitely great things to be said about snappy, bright green stalks, but the flavor that develops when broccoli is cooked to well-done is unmatched by that of its al dente counterpart A touch bitter, a hint of sulfur (in a good way), and a rich, grassy depth all emerge as the stalks soften The only downside here is that waiting for broccoli to soften this much can be a tedious process that takes up to an hour or more But there’s an old trick that the English use to make their traditional fish ’n’ chips side of mushy peas: add some baking soda to the water Baking soda raises the pH of the liquid, causing the pectin that holds the cells of the broccoli together to soften Just a tiny pinch is enough to cut simmering time down by two-thirds To add some depth to the soup, I toss in a handful of anchovies (you can skip them for a vegetarian version), as well as a good amount of grated Parmesan, whose nutty tang plays nicely off the deep flavor of the broccoli A handful of quick buttery croutons adds both texture and flavor SERVES 6 5 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium onion, finely diced (about 1 cup) 4 medium stalks celery, finely diced (about 1 cup) 2 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated on a Microplane (about 2 teaspoons) 4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (optional) 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups milk 2 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock or vegetable stock, plus more if necessary ¼ teaspoon baking soda ... 1 medium onion, finely diced (about 1 cup) 4 medium stalks celery, finely diced (about 1 cup) 2 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated on a Microplane (about 2 teaspoons) 4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (optional) 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour... 4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (optional) 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups milk 2 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock or vegetable stock, plus more if necessary ¼ teaspoon baking soda