The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 543

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The food lab  better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 543

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Essential VEGETABLE Technique #3: BRAISING Braising is a slow-cooking process you see most often applied to tough cuts of meat (see All-American Pot Roast here, for instance) It’s a process in which meat is first seared in hot oil (dry heat), then slow-cooked in a pot with liquid (moist heat) The result is meat that has the flavor that comes with good browning but becomes completely forktender as the connective tissues slowly break down Vegetables also take well to braising, and the technique is almost identical, with two key differences: First is temperature In order to be fully tenderized, vegetables must be cooked to at least 183°F, the temperature at which pectin, the intracellular glue that holds them together, begins to break down That means that while with meats it’s preferable to keep the liquid at below a simmer, with vegetables, you can simmer away without fear of them toughening or drying out Second is time Vegetables cook much faster than meats While a beef stew can take upward of hours to tenderize the meat, most braised vegetables will be as tender as they’ll ever become in 20 minutes or less This is good news for you For a while in the late 1990s and early 2000s, it became bafflingly fashionable to serve vegetables that were still essentially raw Foodies and their ilk called them “al dente” and proclaimed that any green bean that was not perfectly emerald green with a hearty crunch and raw freshness in the center was not worth gracing their lips I call BS on them Indeed, I’d take a nice pot of rib-sticking green beans stewed with bacon grease until completely-tenderbordering-on-mushy any day over their crunchy sautéed counterpart OK, perhaps that’s going a bit too far, but in the winter? No side dish could be better Ditto for asparagus The recipe below is my absolute favorite way to prepare asparagus, but one that was looked down upon for many years Why would you want to eat drab green vegetables? people would ask Because they taste as awesome as MacGyver was cool, that’s why I sear my stalks in a bit of oil first to develop flavor, then deglaze the pan with water or stock, add a big knob of butter, put a lid on the whole thing, and let the asparagus cook in the liquid as it reduces By the time the stalks are tender, your stock and butter will have emulsified into a slick, stalk-coating sauce that adds richness and sweet flavor to each bite It’s awesome ... oil first to develop flavor, then deglaze the pan with water or stock, add a big knob of butter, put a lid on the whole thing, and let the asparagus cook in the liquid as it reduces By the time the stalks are tender, your stock and butter will have... completely-tenderbordering-on-mushy any day over their crunchy sautéed counterpart OK, perhaps that’s going a bit too far, but in the winter? No side dish could be better Ditto for asparagus The recipe below is my absolute... vegetables? people would ask Because they taste as awesome as MacGyver was cool, that’s why I sear my stalks in a bit of oil first to develop flavor, then deglaze the pan with water or stock, add a big knob of butter, put a lid on the whole thing,

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