THE BEST CORN CHOWDER NOTE: Buy the absolute freshest corn you can find, and use it the day you bring it home SERVES 6 6 ears corn, husks and silks removed 6 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns 4 ounces salt pork or slab bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes (optional) 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 medium onion, finely diced (about 1 cup) 2 medium cloves garlic, minced or grated on a Microplane (about 2 teaspoons) 1 to 2 russet (baking) potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 1½ cups) Kosher salt 2 cups whole milk or half-and-half Freshly ground black pepper Sugar (if necessary) 3 scallions, finely sliced With a sharp knife, cut the kernels off the corn cobs Reserve the cobs Use the back of the knife to scrape the “corn milk” from the corncobs into a large saucepan Break the cobs in half and add to the pan Add the stock, bay leaf, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns and stir to combine Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to just below a simmer and let steep for 10 minutes Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard the cobs and spices While the stock infuses, heat the pork, if using, and butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until the butter melts Add the onions, garlic, and corn kernels and cook, stirring frequently, until the pork has rendered its fat and the onions are softened, about minutes Reduce the heat if butter begins to brown Add the corn stock, potatoes, and 1 teaspoon salt, bring to a simmer, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes Add the milk and stir to combine The chowder will look broken, with melted butter floating on top Use an immersion blender to blend the soup until the desired consistency is reached Alternatively, transfer half of the soup to a regular blender and blend, starting on low speed and gradually increasing to high, until smooth, about minute, then return to the remaining soup and stir well Season to taste with salt, pepper, and sugar (with very fresh corn, sugar should not be necessary) Serve immediately, sprinkled with the sliced scallions ... cut the kernels off the corn cobs Reserve the cobs Use the back of the knife to scrape the “corn milk” from the corncobs into a large saucepan Break the cobs in half and add to the pan Add the stock,... heat, then reduce to just below a simmer and let steep for 10 minutes Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl; discard the cobs and spices While the stock infuses, heat the pork,... butter in a 3-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until the butter melts Add the onions, garlic, and corn kernels and cook, stirring frequently, until the pork has rendered its fat and the onions are softened, about minutes Reduce the heat if butter begins to brown