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cooling the eggs and letting them set more slowly; this leads to denser, creamier results With all this data, my fluffy scrambled eggs were coming out great I just had to make sure to whisk in some milk along with the eggs, to use relatively high heat, to keep the stirring and folding minimal, and to make sure to get ’em out of the hot pan before they were completely cooked Even once out of the pan, moisture will continue to evaporate from the eggs and the proteins will continue to set tighter and tighter Removing the eggs from the pan when slightly undercooked ensures that they arrive at the table perfectly cooked My creamy eggs, on the other hand, were giving me more problems They were coming out fine when I started them with cubes of cold butter, used low heat, and stirred constantly to break up curds and release air and vapor, but they were still not quite as rich and creamy as I’d like Salting them well before cooking (see “Salting Eggs,” below) and letting them rest helped, but if there’s one thing I learned working in French restaurants, it’s that when all else fails, add more fat My solution was to add extra egg yolks to the mix, as well as to finish the dish with a touch of heavy cream The cream serves two functions: it adds richness and smooths out the eggs’ texture, and when added at the end of cooking, it also cools them down, preventing them from setting up too hard in the skillet And how’s this for gilding the lily?—use crème frche (see here) in place of heavy cream The resulting eggs are the ultimate in luxury: rich, tender, almost custard-like in texture Eggs-ceptional! (Sorry.) SALTING EGGS H ere’s the scenario: You’ve just beaten a few eggs with a pinch of salt, getting ready to scramble them, when suddenly the dog gets stuck in the toilet, your mother-in-law calls, and the UPS guy rings the doorbell to deliver your brand-new digital thermometer Thirty minutes later, you get back to those eggs and realize they’ve completely changed color Once bright yellow and opaque, they’re now dark orange and translucent What’s going on? And, more important, will it affect the way they cook? ... down, preventing them from setting up too hard in the skillet And how’s this for gilding the lily?—use crème frche (see here) in place of heavy cream The resulting eggs are the ultimate in luxury:... Eggs-ceptional! (Sorry .) SALTING EGGS H ere’s the scenario: You’ve just beaten a few eggs with a pinch of salt, getting ready to scramble them, when suddenly the dog gets stuck in the toilet, your mother-in-law calls, and the UPS guy rings the. .. to the mix, as well as to finish the dish with a touch of heavy cream The cream serves two functions: it adds richness and smooths out the eggs’ texture, and when added at the end of cooking, it also cools them down,
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