The Complete Idiots Guide to Sewing Sewing by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc ALPHA BOOKS Published by the Penguin Group Penguin Group (USA) Inc , 375 Hudson.The Complete Idiots Guide to Sewing Sewing by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc ALPHA BOOKS Published by the Penguin Group Penguin Group (USA) Inc , 375 Hudson.
Sewing by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc ALPHA BOOKS Published by the Penguin Group Penguin Group (USA) Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA Penguin Group (Canada), 90 Eglinton Avenue East, Suite 700, Toronto, Ontario M4P 2Y3, Canada (a division of Pearson Penguin Canada Inc.) Penguin Books Ltd., 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England Penguin Ireland, 25 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland (a division of Penguin Books Ltd.) Penguin Group (Australia), 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia (a division of Pearson Australia Group Pty Ltd.) Penguin Books India Pvt Ltd., 11 Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi—110 017, India Penguin Group (NZ), 67 Apollo Drive, Rosedale, North Shore, Auckland 1311, New Zealand (a division of Pearson New Zealand Ltd.) Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty.) Ltd., 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank, Johannesburg 2196, South Africa Penguin Books Ltd., Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England Copyright © 2011 by Missy Shepler and Rebecca Kemp Brent All rights reserved No part of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher No patent liability is assumed with respect to the use of the information contained herein Although every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this book, the publisher and authors assume no responsibility for errors or omissions Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of information contained herein For information, address Alpha Books, 800 East 96th Street, Indianapolis, IN 46240 THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO and Design are registered trademarks of Penguin Group (USA) Inc International Standard Book Number: 1-101-50428-5 Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2010913771 Note: This publication contains the opinions and ideas of its authors It is intended to provide helpful and informative material on the subject matter covered It is sold with the understanding that the authors and publisher are not engaged in rendering professional services in the book If the reader requires personal assistance or advice, a competent professional should be consulted The authors and publisher specifically disclaim any responsibility for any liability, loss, or risk, personal or otherwise, which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and application of any of the contents of this book For details, write: Special Markets, Alpha Books, 375 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 Publisher: Marie Butler-Knight Book Designers: William Thomas, Rebecca Batchelor Associate Publisher: Mike Sanders Indexer: Celia McCoy Senior Managing Editor: Billy Fields Layout: Ayanna Lacey Executive Editor: Randy Ladenheim-Gil Proofreader: Laura Caddell Production Editor: Kayla Dugger Copy Editor: Amy Lepore Contents Part 1: Let’s Start Sewing! 1 Hand Stitching Hand-Sewing Essentials Needles Pins Scissors and Shears .6 Fabric and Thread .6 Threader and Thimble .7 Tape Measure, Pincushion, and Emery Basic Beginnings How to Thread a Needle Two Ways to Tie a Knot .9 Hiding the Knot 10 Basic Sewing Stitches 10 Straight and Running Stitches 10 Basting Stitch 11 Backstitch 11 Blanket or Buttonhole Stitch 12 Overcast Stitch 13 Blind or Hemming Stitch 13 Slip Stitch 14 Whip Stitch .14 Project: Bare Necessities Needle Case 15 Machine Sewing 19 The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine 19 Threading the Machine 22 Bobbin Basics .24 Basic Presser Feet .25 Basic Machine-Sewing Skills .26 Changing the Needle 26 Changing Stitch Settings 27 Stitching a Straight Line 27 Tension Time 28 A Treasury of Tools and Notions 30 Project: Biscornu Pincushion 31 Machine Needles and Thread 35 Machine Needle Know-How .35 The Anatomy of a Machine Needle 35 The Point of It 36 Needle Size, System, and Type 37 Final Notes on Needles .39 iv The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing Thread Tales 39 Not All Threads Are Created Equal 40 What’s in Your Thread? 40 Weighty Issues 41 Winding Ways 43 Estimating Project Needs 43 Thread Tips 44 Project: Create a Cord 45 Ready, Set, Sew! 47 Fabric First 47 Prewashed Is Prewarned 47 The Right and Wrong of It 48 Hip to Be Square .48 Careful Cutting 51 Match, Pin, Sew 52 Pressing Matters 52 An Open and Shut Case .53 Finger Pressing 54 Rip It! Rip It! 54 Project: Handy Hip Bag .55 Beyond Basic Machine Stitches 61 Standard Machine Stitches 61 Straight Stitch 61 Zigzag/Satin Stitch 63 Decorative Machine Stitches 64 Advanced Utility Stitches 65 Stretch Stitch .65 Overlock Stitch 66 Blind Hem Stitch .66 invisible, 136-137 cutting, 243 preshrinking, 163, 218 mercerized, 40 finished size, 242 project (Double-Bind Pillow), metallic, 41 pattern, 242-243 169 monofilament, 40-41, 137 tools and materials, 242 construction, 171-172 nylon, 41 raglan sleeves, 236 cutting, 170 polyamide, 41 rounded cap sleeves, 235 finished size, 169 polyester, 40 set-in sleeves tools and materials, 170 project (Create a Cord), 45 pinning, 234 rickrack, 162 construction, 46 preparation, 234 stacked, 169 cutting, 46 pressing, 235 techniques, 168 finished size, 45 sewing, 234 couching, 168 tools and materials, 45 shirttail hem, 240 layering, 169 rayon, 41 sleeves, 233 types, 161 silk, 41 dolman, 234 tucks soft finish, 40 flat cap, 235 blind tucks, 112 textured, 40 raglan, 236 definition, 111 tips, 44 rounded cap, 235 horizontal tuck, 111 color choices, 44 set-in sleeves, 233 pintucks, 113 colorfastness, 44 types, 233 released tucks, 111 fabric friendliness, 44 vertical darts, 240 snip-fringed tucks, 112 fray, 44 waistline darts, 240 tied tucks, 113 testing, 44 topstitched tucks, 113 variations, 112 uniformity, 44 topstitching, 57, 62 yardage, 111 weight, 44 needles, 38 turned-edge appliqué, 133-134 types, 40 waistband, 250 twin needle, 114 yardage, 43 tracing paper, 222 two-part snap, 176 tied tucks, 113 290 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing U–V waistband definition, 250 underlinings, 241 finishing, 251 utility fabric, 152 interfacing, 250 care requirements, 153 pressing, 250 finishes, 153 stitching, 251 indoor/outdoor fabric, 153 topstitching, 250 interfacing, 153 whip stitch, 14 laminates, 153 wool fiber, 148 linings, 154 woven fabric, 73, 149 oilcloth, 153 polyvinyl chloride coated fabrics, 153 Y–Z stabilizers, 154 stuffing, 154 Yardage Calc application support fabrics, 153 (Guleno Consulting), 155 utility stitches, 65 yo-yos, 127 bar tack, 67 construction, 128 blind hem stitch, 66 joining, 128 overlock, 66 zigzag seams, 78 V-shape darts, 115 zigzag stitch, 63 zippers, 30, 184 all-purpose zippers, 185 W–X attachment, 185 centered application, 185 waistband facing, 250 invisible zippers, 185 waistline, 247 lapped application, 185 casing, 247 parts, 184 bias tape, 249 separating zippers, 185 bodkin, 248 shortening, 187 candidate, 247 types, 184 construction, 248 unorthodox option, 185 definition, 247 zipper foot, 184 drawstring closures, 248 elastic, 248 fitting, 248 forms, 247 paper bag waistline, 249 darts, 240 facing, 249 bottom-weight fabric, 249 nonstretch waistline, 249 pattern, 249 staystitching, 249 finish type, 247 finishing, 250 Document Outline Cover Page Title Page Copyright Page Contents Part One: Let’s Start Sewing! Chapter One: Hand Stitching Hand-Sewing Essentials Needles Pins Scissors and Shears Fabric and Thread Threader and Thimble Tape Measure, Pincushion, and Emery Basic Beginnings How to Thread a Needle Two Ways to Tie a Knot Hiding the Knot Basic Sewing Stitches Straight and Running Stitches Basting Stitch Backstitch Blanket or Buttonhole Stitch Overcast Stitch Blind or Hemming Stitch Slip Stitch Whip Stitch Project: Bare Necessities Needle Case Chapter Two: Machine Sewing The Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Threading the Machine Bobbin Basics Basic Presser Feet Basic Machine-Sewing Skills Changing the Needle Changing Stitch Settings Stitching a Straight Line Tension Time A Treasury of Tools and Notions Project: Biscornu Pincushion Chapter Three: Machine Needles and Thread Machine Needle Know-How The Anatomy of a Machine Needle The Point of It Needle Size, System, and Type Final Notes on Needles Thread Tales Not All Threads Are Created Equal What’s in Your Thread? Weighty Issues Winding Ways Estimating Project Needs Thread Tips Project: Create a Cord Chapter Four: Ready, Set, Sew! Fabric First Prewashed Is Prewarned The Right and Wrong of It Hip to Be Square Careful Cutting Match, Pin, Sew Pressing Matters An Open and Shut Case Finger Pressing Rip It! Rip It! Project: Handy Hip Bag Chapter Five: Beyond Basic Machine Stitches Standard Machine Stitches Straight Stitch Zigzag/Satin Stitch Decorative Machine Stitches Advanced Utility Stitches Stretch Stitch Overlock Stitch Blind Hem Stitch Bar Tack Project: Easy-Peasy Apron Part Two: Great Seam Chapter Six: Sewing Seams The Standard Seam Seam Allowances and Guides Trimming Seam Bulk Seams So Fine Flat-Felled Seam French Seam Zigzag Seam Project: Sweet Seamed Wrap Chapter Seven: Fun Finishes Common Seam Finishes Ordinary Cut or Raw Edges Pinked Edges Stitched Edges Turned Edges Bound Edges Edgy Alternatives Frayed Edges Fusible Tape Lettuce or Celery Edges Project: Lettuce-Edge T-Shirt Scarf Chapter Eight: Throw Me a Curve Curves Ahead! Same-Shape Curves Easing into It Complex Curves Turning Corners Project: Half-Circle Skirt Part Three: Sweet Shapes Chapter Nine: Pleats, Tucks, and Darts Pleats Are a Kick Knife or Side Pleat Box Pleat Inverted Pleat Tucks Tuck Variations Topstitched and Tied Tucks Pintucks Darts V-Shape Darts Double-Ended Darts Project: Hobo Bag Chapter Ten: Gather Together Gathering and Ruffles Ruffles 101 Thoughts on Gathering Stitches Cord or Channel Gathering Shirr Pleasure Random Ruffle Fuzzy Ruffle Shirring Yo-Yos Project: Sweet Shirred Summer Dress Chapter Eleven: All About Appliqué Appliqué Essentials Turned-Edge Techniques Needleturn Appliqué Invisible Machine Appliqué Raw-Edge Appliqué Ragged-Edge Appliqué Satin-Finish Appliqué The Fuss About Fusing Reverse Appliqué Project: Trendy Tank Part Four: Textiles and Trims Chapter Twelve: Fabric Fundamentals Cloth Considerations Content and Construction Weight, Hand, Drape, and Count Prints, Plaids, and Directional Designs Specialty Fabrics Fun and Functional Finishes Inside Stories Buying Off the Bolt Finding Fabric Information Standard Fabric Widths Project: Pop-Up Storage Cube Chapter Thirteen: Trim Techniques Trim Types Bias Tape and Binding Trim and Finish with Bias DIY Bias Binding Piping Applying Piping DIY Piping Trim Techniques Couching Layering Project: Double-Bind Pillow Chapter Fourteen: Fascinating Fasteners Simple Fasteners Buttons Types of Buttons Attaching Buttons by Hand Attaching Buttons by Machine Buttonholes Elastic Elastic Types and Widths Attaching Elastic Drawstrings and Ties Zippers Zipper Parts and Types Attaching Zippers Project: Backpack Bag Part Five: Getting into Garments Chapter Fifteen: Measuring Up Key Measurements Understanding Ease For Women For Men For Children Made to Measure Simple Pattern Adjustments The Long and Short of It Taking In and Letting Out Pin-Fitting and Muslins Altering Ready-to-Wear Taking It All In Tricks Up Your Sleeve Mind the Gap! Handling Hems Chapter Sixteen: Pattern Play! Unpuzzling Patterns Pattern Books and Envelopes Multisize Options Demystifying Pattern Markings Patterning a Favorite Garment Another Pattern Option A Guide to Guide Sheets Pattern Prep Pattern Layouts and Cutting Chapter Seventeen: Pin, Mark, and Cut Plan Ahead Pinning Patterns How to Pin Working with Weights Cutting Options Make Your Mark Working with Dressmaker’s Tracing Paper Working with Chalk and Markers Working with Quick Clips and Tailor’s Tack Project: The Fudd Cap Chapter Eighteen: Top Details Sleeves Set-In Sleeves Flat Cap Rounded Cap Raglan Sleeves Collars and Cuffs The Inside Story Getting the Point Learning Curves Facings and Linings Facings Linings Project: Simple Shapes Jacket Chapter Nineteen: Bottom Lines Around the Waist Casings Facings Waistbands Pocket Pleasers Patch Pockets In-Seam Pockets Hemlines Marking Hems Hem-Edge Finishes Narrow Hems Specialty Hems Project: Fun Flannel Pants Appendixes A Glossary B Resources C Quick References Index ... is one of the simplest stitches to make Working from right to left, bring the needle up through the fabric at A, pulling the thread to the fabric right side Insert the needle back into the fabric... stitch to end Reinsert the needle at B, the beginning of the seam or the end of the previous stitch, and bring the point of the needle back up through the fabric ¹⁄ to ¹⁄ inch beyond A at C Pull the. .. threads of the garment with the needle, slip the needle under the hem edge about ¹⁄ inch farther along the hem, and bring it back to the hem right side Pull the thread tightly enough to secure the hem