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Xa hoihoc so 2 (106), 2009 95
BA HIEN Tl/ONG
TU"
HU6NG NHINXAHOIHOCKINHTE
MAI DANG HIEN QUAN
I. Ud DAU
Toan clu boa tie ddng len hlu nhfl mgi khia canh cua ddi sd'ng d hlu bet cac
qudc gia, tfl kinh te, xa hgi den van hoa, sfl trao ddi rgng rai bang boa, dich vu va ca
cac y tfldng. Bai viet nay di cap tdi viec nghien cflu ddng thai cung - clu va tac ddng
cua toan du boa len bahien tfldng xa bgi dfldc chu y d My la: 1. Cac nha bang dac
san theo phong each, 2. Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh ding, 3. Du lich tinb due.
Nhflng phan tich dfldc dat ra tfl hfldng nhinxa hgi hgc kinh te.
II.
VAI NET VE BOI CANH LICH SU"
CIc nha hang dac san theo phong cach^ ra ddi va phat trien gin liin vdi viec
thfldng mai boa thu vui an ud'ng. Sfl xult hien ciia cac quan ca phe tfl nda sau the ky
17 da dfla ra mgt kieu nha hang khdng chi nhlm cung dp dd an thflc ud'ng ma cdn
de mgi ngfldi trong cong ddng giao tiep vdi nhau (Beardswortb, Bryman, 230). Sau
nay, dd an ngoai phd' xuat bien nhfl d va khoai tay ran d nfldc Anh dfldc ban vdi gia
hdp vdi tui tien cua ddng dao ngfldi tieu dflng. Den nfla sau the ky 19, cflng vdi qua
trinh cdng nghiep hoa d My, nhu clu cd cac mdn an nhanh, phong phfl de phuc vu
cong nhan tai khu vflc dd thi dfldc dat ra va hang loat cac nha bang phuc vu bfla
trfla, bfla to'i va cac bfla an lien hoan ra ddi. Tfl dd, an tdi ben ngoai da trd thanh mgt
boat ddng dac trflng, bdi d day cac thflc khach cd nhieu Ifla chgn. Cac nha hang nay
cd hang ngan mdn an da dang che bien tfl mdn cd ban ban dlu (Pillsbury 1990, 225).
Dd cd thi la nhflng nha hang dlu tien cd chflc nang cung dp mgt hinh thflc mdi cua
cac bfla an tdi ben ngoai sau khi chuyen tfl cac nha hang thdng thfldng thanh nhflng
nha hang dac san theo phong dch.
Viec sii dung ca phe va dc quIn ca phe cung cd lich sdf rieng. Nhiiu nam sau
khi cac nfldc thudc dia gianh dfldc dgc lap, dc "mlu qudc" vln gifl quyen kiem seat
nganh cdng nghiep ca phe dfla tren dc loai ca phe lay tfl cac thudc dia cfl. Cac nfldc
san xult ca phe tiep tuc xuat khau ca phe cho cac nfldc tieu dflng, y het nhfl khi bg
vln cdn la thuoc dia, (Linton et al. 227). Do thieu cd sd ha ting va viec dgc quyin
d My,
CO
nhflng nha hang dSc san theo phong each Y, phong each Trung Quoc Tai day
khong chi do an, thflc uong dfldc che bien theo phong each Y hoae Trung Quoc ma each bai tri
nha hang, trang phuc, khuon ph6p giao tie'p cua ngfldi phuc vu cung mang dam n6t Y hoae
Trung Qudc. Nha bing dSc san theo phong each cung eo the la nhflng nha an nhanh,
&n
tu
ebon hoae an nhieu mon diJdc che bien tfl mot loai thflc pham (hai san, thit de, thit Idn )
96 Bahien titdng tit mgt hitdng nhin xd hgi hgc kinhte
trong phan phdi san pham, cac nfldc san xuat ca phe gin nhfl khdng the nang cae gia
tri san pham ciia minh. Cd qua nhieu khau trung gian nhfl moi gidi ban xfl, xult
khau, nhap khau, che bien, rang va ca chii dlt de ca phe tfl dc nha san xuat nhd
den tay ngfldi tieu dflng. Diiu nay giai thich vi sao mdt chu trang trai ca phe nhd chi
nhan dfldc chfla dly 4 cent trong khi ngfldi tieu dflng phai bd ra 3 USD cho mgt tich
ca phe moca tai Starbuks mdi budi sang. Dly chinh la nguyen nhan dan den sfl ra
ddi cua Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang.
Con cd sd lich sd va van hoa cua hien tfldng mai dam la gi? Tai Amsterdam,
hien tfldng mai dam cd lich sii lau ddi (Wonders, Michalowski, 553). Mai dam va sd
dung ma tuy khong phai la cac vln de tdi pham, vi chinh phu Ha Lan cd truyin
thd'ng tfl do ve mat chinh tri va chap nhan ve mat xa hgi. "Luat phap hiem khi dfldc
sd dung de kiem soat cac van di xa hgi nhfl hien tfldng mai dam, vi khd cd the dat
dfldc sfl thoa hiep xung quanh cac vln de dao dflc cdn nhieu tranh cai." (Brants,
1998).
KhIc vdi Amsterdam, Habana khdng cd lich sii chap nhan nan mai dam.
Ngfldi ta coi mai dam la "soc", vi chflng ta (nhflng ngfldi Cuba) khong quen vdi viec
tha'y mgt xa hgi cd gai diem tren dfldng phd" (Wonders, Michalovski: 562). Tuy nhien,
Habana da chflng kien thflc te phIt trien ciia du lich tinh due sau sfl sup dd ciia Lien
Xd va viec hdp phap hoi ddng do la My. Tai Habana, du lich tinh due ngay nay da
phd bien tdi mflc mgt gli diem dang kiem dfldc nhieu tiin hdn mgt bac sy.
III.
DONG THAI CUNG - CAU
Cac nha hang dac san theo phong each la sfl minh hoa thu vi cua cd che cung -
clu bien dai. Ngay nay, vi con ngfldi sd'ng trong mdt xa hgi hdi ha va dly flc chi^,
ngfldi ta den nha hang khdng chi vi dd an, thflc ud'ng. Viec di an d ngoai cflng la each
de tim kiem mgt ndi cho phep hg tam rdi "sfl te nhat va vo nghia cua cugc sd'ng hang
ngay"(Bryman, 1995,176). Hg cung chd ddi chit Ifldng phuc vu td't. Cac nha hang dac
san theo phong each la ndi dip flng nhu du dd. Trong xa hgi hien dai, thflc an mang
mgt y nghia xa hgi Idn hdn nhfl nd vd'n cd. An ud'ng gid day khdng chi de lap dly cai
da day trd'ng rdng, ma cdn de thoa man thi hieu am thflc va thfl gian. Loai nha bang
dac san theo phong dch cung dp mgt khung dnh vdi muc dich thu hut khich hang
den nha hang de tan hfldng bfla to'i va vdi muc dich cuo'i cflng la sinh ldi cang nhiiu
cang td't. Phong dch dac san hoa nha hang la mgt dang phan hoa cd the mang lai y
nghia xa hdn dc dac tinh cua thflc an thdng thfldng. Phong dch hoa nha hang dfldc
chip nhan de lam mgt phfldng sIch marketing; nd theo sau ky thuat kinh doanh cd
ban cua sfl hdp ly hoa, chuan mflc hoi, nd nhlm vao tinh hieu qua, sfl dac quyin de
quang cao va budn bin.
Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang cung la nhflng vi du rd net cua ddng
thii cung - du. Khi gia ca phe giam den mflc khung hoang nhfl vao nam 1990, cac
chu trang trai phai giam dien tich trdng ca phe de tranh thua Id. Thi trfldng ca phe
mat can blng nghiem trgng. Tuy nhien, dc nha boat ddng tich cflc nhfl d Global
Mai Ddng Hien Qudn 97
Exchange va Oxfam da cd glng de giai quyet mat cung va mat du cua thi trfldng.
Vdi viec ap dung nhflng chinh sach dam bao gia san, cho ndng dan vay vdn va day
manh mdi quan he lau dai gifla cung va du, phong trao nay da khich le nhflng chu
trang trai nhd trdng ca phe, gifl cho thi trfldng d mflc quan binh. Ngfldi ta cd the coi
nhflng phong trao kieu dd mang tinh nhan dao thuln tuy, song khong chi nhfl vay,
trong thflc te nhflng phong trao nay lai cd y nghia kinhte rlt Idn.
Neu khdng cd sfl khich le nay, viec giam cung se day gia len cao va hau qua la
sflc mua ca phe giam xud'ng. Diiu nay din tdi viec lam tang sang kien cua ngfldi tieu
dung tim den nhflng san pham khac hoac san pham thay the ca phe. Bdi vay, Phong
trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang khdng chi cd ich cho ndng dan ma cdn co ich cho ca
ngfldi tieu dflng. Mdi khi ban nham nhi mgt tach ca phe thfldng mai binh ding va
cam thay de chiu vi minh da lam mgt diiu td't cho ndng dan ngheo thi hay dflng quen
ring ban cung dang giup ban than minh. Qua trinh nay dfldc md ta chinh xac nhfl
sau: "canh tay san xuat vfldn tdi viec kiem seat thi trfldng va xa hdn nfla viec dieu
chinh tinh chat ciia thi trfldng va do dfldc hanh vi xa hgi cua nhflng ai nd phuc vu"
(Michalovski :69).
Nhfl da ndi d tren, trong khi muc dich ciia cac nha hang theo phdng each la dat
ldi nhuan tdi da blng dch tan dung triet de mgi phfldng sach marketing, thi muc dich
cua Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang khdng chi la thu ldi tflc ma cdn nhlm
thuc day ngfldi tieu dung phan anh cac gia tri xa hgi va dao dflc din den viec hg thay
ddi hanh vi tieu dflng. Vi vEiy nd gio'ng vdi mgt chien dich giao due hdn la mgt cd glng
marketing. Theo dinh nghia cua Kotler va Amstrong (Kotler va Amstrong Group 2002)
dfla ra "marketing khong chi la nghe thuat tim tdi cac each khdn kb^o nhlt de phan
phdi san pham ma cdn la nghe thuat tao ra nhflng gia tri dich thflc cua ngfldi tieu
dflng". Tuy nhien, nhflng pheng trao nay cflng cd the dfldc coi la cac phfldng phap
marketing thanh cdng vi chung thu hflt dfldc sfl chfl y tfl truyin thdng - cac nha cung
cap thong tin manh me nha't. Bdi vay, ta cd the khlng dinh ring phong trao ca phe
thfldng mai binh dang da day manh viec tieu thu ca phe mgt each gian tiep.
Dong thai cung - du trong trfldng hdp mai dam hen quan chat che den ddng
ngfldi xuyen qudc gia ngay cang tang d hai dang chinh : du lich va nhap cfl. Khi nhap
cfl vao mdi trfldng mdi, dan nhap cfl phai dd'i mat vdi nan that nghiep. Cflng vdi ne la
sfl nH hod lao dong nhap cfl. Vi vay, trong nhiiu trfldng hdp, mai dam trd thanh Ifla
chgn tdt nhlt, ddi khi la duy nhlt dd'i vdi phu nfl di so'ng sdt va de cd thu nhap. Phan
tich hien tfldng du lich tinh due cung dn phai quan sat d hanh vi mua dam. Kieu
hanh vi nay dfldc biet den nhfl khia canh clu. Nhu clu cua cac khach hang dan ong
cd nhiiu tiin da anh hfldng Idn den dich vu giai tri, gdm ca du lich tinh due. Sfl tfldng
tac kinhte gifla cung va clu trong du lich tinh due cd thi dfldc md ta ddn gian nhfl
sau: nhu du cua dan dng lam cho viec tao ra dich vu tren than xlc phu nfl trd thanh
hien thflc.
98 Ba hien
tieong
tit mgt hitdng nhin xd hgi hgc kinhte
Ta cd the thly sfl gidng nhau vi ddng cd va dfldng hfldng tfl gdc do clu trong
trfldng hdp du lich tinh due va dc nha hang dac san theo phong dch. Ngfldi tieu
dflng sLf dung cIc dich vu nay de thoat khdi cugc sd'ng ddn dieu hang ngay. Dich vu
mai dam cho phep khach mua dam giai tholt khdi nhflng rang huge cua gia dinh hg
de lam mgt cugc phieu Iflu ngoai lai cd kha nang thoa man hg. Cac nha hang dac san
theo phong dch cung dp cho nhflng ngfldi theo chii nghia tholt li thflc te nhflng bfla
tdi trong khung canh di chiu. Nhfl vay la hanh vi tinh due va hanh vi tieu dflng thflc
pham xua't phIt tfl phia du da tao nen cac tfldng tie vdi phia cung, mang den ldi
nhuan cho phia cung. Trong ca hai trfldng hdp ly nhflng trang thai thoat li thflc te
da dfldc sii dung de ldi keo cang nhieu khach hang cang td't nham tang ldi nhuan.
Chu nghia tieu thu la mgt dang chu nghia thoat li thflc te dfldc xa hgi cha'p nhan, no
khdng gio'ng vdi viec sii dung ma tuy hoac rfldu de giai thoat, Phai chang cugc sd'ng
trong xa hgi hien dai qui flc che va buy hoai den mflc cd nhieu ngfldi nay sinh nhu
du thoat li thflc te, dan den sfl thanh cdng cua dc dich vu dfla tren y tfldng cua chu
nghia thoat li thflc te? Va neu chu nghia tieu dflng la met dang giai thdat dfldc xa bgi
chap nhan khong dii li do tdn tai thi ngfldi ta cd quay lai vdi dc hinh thflc thoat li
khdng dfldc xa hgi chap nhan chang han nhfl ma tuy va rfldu khdng?
IV.
TAC
DONG
CUA
TOAN
CAU HOA
Ta cd the tha'y toan du boa cd tac ddng Idn nhfl the nao len ca ba trfldng hdp
dfldc coi la do'i tfldng phan tich tren day nhflng theo nhflng each khac nhau. Du lich
tinh due la van di kha li thu de nghien cflu tfl quan diem toan du hoi. Gai mai dam
khdng ban sflc lao ddng, ma bg ban than the minh nhfl mgt thfl hang hoi, de tao ra
thu nhap dfldi sflc ep va nhu du manh me cua toan du boa. Nghien cflu van di nay
cho thay dc the lflc toan du boa cd the tao nen sflc ep va dinh hfldng lai dc quan he
kinh te va ca dc chuan mflc xa hgi tai cac dia phfldng, vfldt qua ca rao can cua y thflc
be.
Cac tac gia da cong nhan ring mai dam khdng phai la van de cua mgt nfldc rieng
le va ngfldi ta khdng thi chi len an gli diem vi hg bin dam. Ma, vdi quan diem cd ban
hdn, ngfldi ta phai len an cac the lflc toan du, vi chflng lien quan chat che den dac
diem cua du lich tinh due.
Toan du hoa cflng cd tac dong to Idn len qua trinh san xua't va phan pho'i ca
phe.
Cau chuyen ca phe khdng phai la cau chuyen duy nhat. Cd the thay dc vi du
khac tfldng tfl: Viet Nam la nfldc xua't khau hat dieu Idn thfl nha't, xuat khIu gao Idn
thfl hai va xult khau che Idn thfl nam tren the gidi nhflng thu nhap ciia ngfldi Viet
tfl xua't khau van chfla the di thien ding ke mflc so'ng cua hg, phln Idn bg phan
ndng dan vln sd'ng d mflc ngheo; Venezuela vln phai tranh da'u ve tai chinh cho dfl
hg cd mgt Ifldng Idn dlu dfl trfl. Va nhan dan d mgt so' nfldc thudc the gidi thfl ba, tai
chau Phi van phai sd'ng dfldi mflc trung binh cho dfl hg la nhflng nha cung dp kim
cfldng va dc tai nguyen quy hiem khac. Toan clu boa la nguyen nhan din den
nghich canh nay. Ta cd the tha'y Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh ding la dn
thiet, nhflng khdng phai la cd ban nhat. Cung dp cd sd ha ting va cac phfldng tien
Mai Ddng Hien Qudn 99
san xult hien dai hdn chd nhflng nfldc ngheo de hg cd the canh tranh vdi cac nfldc
giau, cho dfl dieu nay rlt khd, nhflng lai la phfldng each cd ban hdn. Ddi vdi cau bdi:
sau Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh ding, lieu nhflng phong trao khac nhfl
thfldng mai binh ding vi lua gao, vi ch6, hay vi kim cfldng cd the xuat hien nfla
khong? Cau tra ldi cd le la khdng. •
Cflng vdi dc bien ddi kinh te, sfl toan clu boa cung din den nhflng bien ddi ve
van hoa d hlu khlp cac nfldc. Am thflc la mgt yeu td quan trgng trong dinh nghia
mdi nin van hoa. Britanica nhan dinh: "am thflc la vat mang van boa lau ddi nha't
tren toan du" do vay, thdng qua Im thflc de nghien cflu tac dong cua toan du boa
ddi vdi van boa la rat hflu ich. Bai viet cua Beardswortb va Bryman trinh bay mgt
khai niem thfl vi: sfl "McDonald hod". McDonald thoat dlu dfldc thiet ke kbdng phai
la nha hang dac san, tuy nhien, vi no qua phd bien nen hien nay nd dfldc xa hgi cdi
nhfl vay. Ta cd the sii dung mang Ifldi dd an McDonald nhfl mgt trfldng hdp dien hinh
de nghien cflu tac ddng cua toan clu hoa len cac nha hang dac san theo phong each.
Giao sfl Ritzer tfl dai hgc Maryland khlng dinh "Net dac biet cua Mc Donald,
theo nghia nao do, da trd thanh vi du diin hinh va hiin nhien cua sfl hdp ly trong xa
hgi hien dai" (Ritzer:
142).
Mgt trong nhflng h do khien McDonald cd the dflng nen binh
anh nhfl vay la sfl dac quyin tfl chinh sach hanh trfldng anh hfldng cua no ra nfldc
ngoai - bfldc khdi dlu
Cd
ban cua toan clu boi. Qua trinh toan clu boa chic chan da ho
trd mang Ifldi dd an McDonald d sfl nd'i tieng lln kha nang thu nhap. Trfldc kbi dfla
McDonald vfldt qua bien gidi, dd an nhanh hlu nhfl chfla dfldc biet den. McDonald la
cdng ty dlu tien d glng xult khIu tinh yeu cua nfldc My dd'i vdi dd an nhanh va lam
thay ddi ca thdi quen an ud'ng cua cac qudc gia khac" (Ritzer, 147).
Sfl toan clu hoa van boa dd an nhanh cflng chflng td kiiu thflc phlm nay dflgc
Ua thich tai dc qudc gia nd ddn va dan chflng d dd hfldng flng chflng nhfl the nao . Td
China Pdst cho ring: "Khi van boa xe hdi cua My lan ra nfldc ngdai, thi hamburger
theo sau. McDonald da md cda hang tai 119 qudc gia va phuc vu 52 tri^u ngUdi hang
ngay" va "Ldi mdi goi kiiu My" dfldng nhfl da xuyen qua mgi bien gidi. Khi McDonald
md nha hang dlu tien tai Kuwait vao nam 1994, 15 000 ngfldi da xep hang thanh
mot ddng dai 7 dam. Kdt qua nghien cflu cflng cho thly viec dfla mang Ifldi do an
nhanh nhfl McDonald vao cac qudc gia da van hoi cdn Idn hdn nhieu. Hamburge
dfldc cdng nhan trong khi nhflng thay ddi tfl phia khac l,i bi coi la de do, loi song
da'd ta! nhiiu thd ky. Khdng thi xem thfldng mdt sfl that la "McDonald cung c^.p
dd an re ca phe ngon va sfl giai tri thoai mai cho cac ban tre, cung can ke den mgt
t sa ad cd thi ^L cho dc bac ph. huynh y.n tam hdn v. tinh n. d^n^ ^-^g
cua con cai hg. Khlp thd gidi, biiu tfldng ngay cang ndi tieng nay cua n.dc My (du
ban thich hay khdng) dang khuydn khich mgt cugc c.nh tranh
^^^[^J^'^
canh tranh ma, trdng nhiiu trfldng hdp, dan den vigc cai thign ^'^^^
sinh thflc phlm va ca dc quan he giad tidp. Mgt sd ngfldi khdng thich y tfldng tdan
u hoTnd'chung va coi McDonald nhfl mdt biiu tfldng cua y tfldng nay, b.u qua
100 Bahien titdng tit mgt
hiedng
nhin xd hgi hgc kinhte
la hg do ldi cho toan cau hoa. Van de dat ra la: sfl toan du hoa ciia McDonald cd
anh hfldng tich cflc hay tieu cflc len dc nen van hoi khac nhau d nhieu quo'c gia?
Ngoai van hoa ra, mgt vln de nfla phai dfldc tinh den la "Vdi svf ndi tieng cua
McDonald, cac nha hang ban dia - it ndi tieng hdn va chic chin la it tiem lflc kinh
te hdn McDonald - cd hi pha san khdng? Cin nhflng nghien cflu Idn hdn de tra ldi
cac cau hdi nay. Pha san thi chfla ban, nhflng canh tranh se ra't khdc liet bdi quy
luat cua thi trfldng la "cl Idn nud't cl be".
• ' i- ^ : -• ' ;•• i-rii
';if
Phan tich trfldng hdp cac nha hang dac san theo phong each, du lich tinh due va
Phong trao ca phe thfldng mai binh dang cho thay ro cac tfldng tac xa hdi chi phdi
ddng thai cung - clu nhfl la yeu to' cd ban nhat cua quan he kinh te. Toan clu boa da
tac ddng den ba trfldng hdp ndi tren khdng chi d chiiu canh kinhte ma cdn d chiiu
canh xa hgi, van hoa.
Cd the dan ra hai nhan dinh quan trgng thay cho ldi ket: Trong niia dau the ky
XX, Milton Friedman, nha kinhte hgc ndi tieng dfldc giai Nobel, da dfla ra mgt hgc
thuyet cd anh hfldng Idn, trong dd ndi ring thfldng mai tfl do lam ldi cho ca Cung lln
Clu cua nin kinh te. Bdi vay nhflng ngfldi iing hg toan du hoa da ly luan rang sfl
toan clu boa ma y tfldng chu dao la tfl do thfldng mai, se lam ldi Idn cho ca hai phia
cung va clu, vi vay nd dang dfldc ung bg. ,,
Tuy nhien, nhflng nghien cflu mdi day vi toan du hoi lai nha'n manh ring sfl
toan du boa gay ra vd so' nhflng van di dang quan tam, ndi bat la vi bit binh
dang. Joseph Stiglitz, mgt nha kinhte hgc cflng dfldc giai Nobel, cho ring dc quy
tic dieu hanh sfl toan du boa iing hg cac nfldc phIt trien, trong khi cac nfldc dang
phat trien lai lun sau vao ngheo khd. Hdn nfla, dc nfldc dang phat trien bi toan clu
boa kiem soat va nhflng mat ban che ciia qua trinh dd cd the huy hoai nghiem
trgng nin dan chu tai cac nfldc nay. Ngoai ra, dc nfldc dang phat trien vay mgt sd
vdn Idn tfl dc nfldc khac va Ngan hang the gidi thfldng huge hg phai rdi bd ldi ich tfl
nen dan chu cua minh do nhflng diiu kien rang huge gin lien vdi viec tra nd. Vi
nhflng gi dfldc coi la "thfldng mai cdng blng", quan diem cua Stiglitz la: thoat dlu,
thi trfldng dfldc md cda vdi hy vgng giup dd nin kinh te; tuy nhien, quyin ldi gifla
dc nfldc phat trien va dc nfldc dang phat trien da bi bop meo, va nhflng hdp ddng
thfldng mai sau cflng thflc chat da dat cac nfldc ngheo nha't vao tinh the cdn te hdn
ca khi bat dau (Stiglitz :147). j :,•, hpi^s'
Bflc tranh toan du hoa vdi nhflng mang dam hai mau sang to'i la nhfl vay. Nd
dn dfldc dc nha hoach dinh chinh sach nhan thflc de di xuat cac giai phap kinh te,
xa hgi, van hoa hfldng vao viec md rgng thi trfldng va khIc phuc dc bat binh ding
tren binh dien quo'c gia va hdp tie quo'c te./.
Mai Ddng Hiin Qudn 101
Tai lieu trich dan va tham khao
1.
Breadsworth, Alan and Bryman,Alan: Late modernity and the dynamics of
quasification: the case of the themed restaurant. Sociological Review; May99 Vol
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