Tiểu luận an analysis of southeast nations involvement in the global value chain in the laboremployment garment industry

UEH UNIVERSITY COLLEGE OF ECONOMICS, LAW, AND GOVERNMENT ASSIGNMENT SUBJECT: DEVELOPMENT ECONOMY GROUP AN ANALYSIS OF SOUTHEAST NATIONS' INVOLVEMENT IN THE GLOBAL VALUE CHAIN IN THE LABOREMPLOYMENT-GARMENT INDUSTRY Ho Chi Minh City, 2021-11-22 ABSTRACT The readymade garments (RMG) sector is a critical driver for Southeast Asia's economic and social development As a result of the severe effect of COVID-19, the RMG sector has been confronted with a neverseen-before occurrence Because the supply chain has been significantly impacted, businesses and regulators are concerned about how to mitigate disruptions caused by pandemics As such, this research intends to examine the vulnerability and capability factors affecting the RMG industry in Vietnam, their connection, and the effect on the supply chain resilience of these variables Also, this study investigates the impact of Covid -19 on woman labor working in the RMG industry So that we can propose some solutions to improve the situation postpandemic INTRODUCTION The COVID-19 epidemic has impacted the worldwide supply chain Natural catastrophes (floods, earthquakes, etc.), terrorist attacks, pandemics, and other occurrences that have a low likelihood but great effect cause supply chain interruptions (SARS, Ebola, Swine flu, COVID-19, etc.) The latest COVID-19 outbreak is undoubtedly the century's most cursed pandemic (Parsons, 2020) By June 2020, it will have killed 0.5 million people and infected 10 million COVID19 has disrupted supply chains for 94 percent of Fortune 1000 companies (Ivanov, 2020; Fortune 2020) According to Dun & Bradstreet, 16 percent of Fortune 1000 businesses have tier-1 and tier2 suppliers in Wuhan Tier-2 suppliers offer raw materials to tier-1 suppliers, whereas tier-1 suppliers give raw materials to tier-2 suppliers At least million global enterprises have tier-2 suppliers in that region (Smith, 2020) As a result, China's exports decreased 17% in January-February 2020, and global trade might fall up to 32% in 2020 (Sarkis et al., 2020) However, demand for pharmaceutical items has surged as a result of the pandemic (McKinsey & Company, 2020) While afflicted nations have employed social isolation, communal quarantining, and lockdown to limit the virus, widespread unemployment has created social and economic issues The COVID-19 problem might cost up to 25 million jobs, according to the ILO Garment, garment, and footwear production in several Southeast Asian nations are competitive because of cheap labor costs, strategic location, privileged access to the market, and favorable government regulations At the same time, other nations continue to place a premium on producing large quantities of low-value goods using cheap labor as their principal competitive edge (Huynh 2015) Because they relied on a small number of key raw material suppliers, Southeast Asian garment manufacturers are particularly vulnerable to supply chain disruptions They are also more dependent on foreign suppliers because of the unpredictability of electricity supplies and the insufficient reliability, timing, and scale of local input production While growing labor expenses are putting economic pressure on certain nations, poor worker productivity must also be addressed (Andersson, Machiels, and Bodwell 2019) Asia is the world's largest and most populous continent So this continent's fashion history is likewise vast and varied The clothing business has evolved to meet the changing requirements of the people Asia's clothing industry has risen considerably with the use of technology This industry's growth has generated many workers, notably female workers It has also addressed people's necessities despite limited income China, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Turkey are the top five garment exporters by region (accounting for 53 percent of global garment export turnover) The present COVID-19 epidemic has impacted many parts of Asia's economy and society, including the clothing industry The epidemic that has halted manufacturing has had a severe impact on Asia's clothes-consuming partners Workers lose earnings due to delays in cross-border commodities delivery GARMENT INDUSTRY ANALYSIS IN SOUTHEAST ASIA’S NATIONS: 2.1 Southeast Asia Overview: Many Southeast Asian nations can compete in the labor-intensive garment, garment, and footwear manufacturing industries because of their comparatively low labor costs, strategic locations, market accessibility, favorable schools, and supporting government policies Simultaneously, other nations continue to prioritize high volumes of low-value-added products, relying heavily on cheap labor as their primary competitive edge (Huynh 2015) While there are certain benefits in the global market, the garment and apparel sector faced several severe obstacles when the COVID-19 epidemic erupted To begin, the suspension of commerce between nations to prevent the spread of the illness has had a devastating impact on global supply networks An excellent example is Chinese handcrafted items that have been trapped in the nation for an extended period, resulting in nearly abandoned orders This demonstrates the vulnerability of Southeast Asian garment and garment makers to supply chain disruptions as a result of their over-reliance on a few major raw material sources Numerous Southeast Asian businesses have been forced to cease operations and lay off staff as a result of order cancellations and production constraints Additionally, the COVID-19 outbreak altered people's behaviors, resulting in adjustments to everyday demands Along with the supply chain shortfall, there is resource scarcity, including the timing and size of local input production; and the industry's productivity has been hampered by the industry's inconsistent power supply system Rising labor expenses, particularly in some countries, have increased economic pressure and contributed to low worker productivity, both of which are issues in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic 2.2 Garment industry in some Asian nations (Bangladesh): COVID-19 has had a profoundly damaging effect on the world economy's economic sectors It is also hard to avoid the strong wave of arriving from this century's pandemic, particularly in Asian nations whose manufacturing strength is in garment items Bangladesh - one of ten Asian nations with significant garment and apparel production capability - also suffered from COVID's influence - 19 Previously, particularly during 2018 and 2019, Bangladesh was the second biggest garment provider in the global clothing supply chain, with 34.13 billion USD in export revenue However, until the COVID-19 epidemic in late 2019 or early 2020, this country's garment exports were badly harmed Export revenue was 27.94 billion USD, down roughly 20% with an absolute value of more than billion USD from pre-epidemic levels (according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau - EPB of Bangladesh) Bangladesh had lost its status as the world's second-biggest garment maker at the time and had been supplanted by Vietnam, which projected an export revenue of around 29 billion USD by the end of 2020 (According to statistics of Vietnam) In response to this circumstance, the Bangladesh government has also taken measures to give prompt assistance packages to assist companies in resolving their problems Additionally, several measures such as deferring loan payments, lowering interest rates, and promoting payment services have all contributed to the garment industry's prosperity in this country It is the Bangladesh government's timely support that has increased the country's garment export turnover to 31.5 billion USD in the 2020-2021 fiscal year (which ends in June 2021) (the total industry reached 38.7 billion USD), an increase of nearly 13% over the same period last year, but still 7% below the result of 2018-2019 before the epidemic Exports of knitwear climbed by 21.94 percent year on year to about 17 billion USD, while exports of woven products increased by 3.24 percent year on year to 14.5 billion USD, led by exports of knitted goods Domestic garment exports climbed by 49.17 percent year over year to 1.13 billion USD 2.3 Vietnam's garment industry: Garments and garments are regarded as critical sectors in several economies, including Vietnam Vietnam's garment and apparel sectors have made significant progress in recent years, both in terms of output and export Whereas the average annual growth rate of garment and apparel manufacturing was 7.9 percent from 2016 to 2020, it rose by more than 33 percent in 2018 The garment and garment sector has shown greater signs of progress in the first nine months of 2021 compared to the same period last year, owing to the recovery of the production chain and an increase in conventional orders According to the Vietnam Garment and Apparel Association (VITAS), Vietnam's total garment and apparel export revenue reached $29 billion in the first nine months of 2021, up 13.2 percent from the same period in 2020 and down 0.04 percent from the same time in 2019 This means that all of the major export items gained in value over the same time last year, specifically: Apparel reached 21.7 billion USD, an increase of 5%; fabric reached 1.8 billion USD, an increase of 37.4%; fiber reached billion USD, an increase of 56.2 percent; nonwoven fabrics reached USD 557 million, an increase of 77.3 percent; and garment and garment accessories reached $921 million, an increase of 21.8 percent Total imports of raw materials and auxiliary materials totaled 18 billion USD, up 27.9 percent year on year However, until the third quarter of 2021, the situation for Vietnamese garment and apparel firms was exceedingly tough due to the extraordinarily problematic and extended growth of the COVID-19 outbreak in Ho Chi Minh City Businesses in Ho Chi Minh City and the southern regions confront a variety of obstacles, including shutting, ceasing production, producing in moderation, being unable to complete orders, being forced to deliver late, sending products via plane, or being delayed Order cancellations wreak havoc on the supply chain Numerous firms in the southern regions incur significant expenditures as a result of attempting to organize production "3 on-site," "1 route - destinations," or "4 green," but yet only having approximately 10% - 30% of employees report to work This is detrimental not just to the economy, but also to the customer's reputation These trends are evident in August exports, which fell 15.9 percent compared to July 2021 and 2.63 percent compared to August 2020; September exports, which totaled billion USD, fell 9.2 percent compared to August 2021 and 10.5 percent compared to September 2020 IMPACT OF COVID – 19 ON GARMENT INDUSTRY: COVID-19 has had a significant impact on the apparel sector in Southeast Asia Order cancellations and manufacturing constraints have led several Southeast Asian businesses to close their doors and lay off staff The industry's pre-pandemic issues have been compounded, resulting in increased volatility and shortages of key production elements such as raw materials, which affect many segments of the value chain Closures of factories in other countries have hampered the timely arrival of imported inputs and interrupted garment manufacture Additionally, research indicates that the COVID-19 epidemic may increase demand for sustainable fashion items as customers turn away from new clothing purchases and toward reusing them (Richetti and Palma 2020) The COVID-19 situation has also brought to light the industry's dearth of support services for vulnerable workers, aggravating disparities In the short term, lack of access to essentials, uneven home obligations, hiring discrimination based on gender, and an increased risk of gender-based violence may make women workers in the business more vulnerable Additionally, there are long-term effects, as restricted access to social assistance, uncontrolled working conditions, and less access to health care services may all contribute to women's economic and social empowerment (ILO 2020) The epidemic may also have a significant impact on children since economic constraints and inadequate safety nets force many youngsters into child labor (ILO and UNICEF 2020) 3.1 Supply chain disruption: Due to the fast growth of COVID-19, businesses all over the globe have been forced to examine and review their operations As firms strive to get goods and supplies to individuals in need, supply chain management is a prime example of this Business supply networks must be reliable in the face of demand shocks, logistical restrictions as well as global or local shutdowns The short-term supply chain effect is the primary focus for most firms, with a concentration on fulfillment Several of them are there to learn from the hard lessons of COVID-19 and to reconsider their approach to supply chains, with a focus on resilience in particular It's been a long time since the government and other organizations have taken action to alleviate the financial challenges faced by manufacturers There should be no compromise on the safety of workers and employees at any industrial site During the lockdown period, they reopen factories with a few fair terms and conditions to reduce their loss Garment producers have been attempting to discover a means to remain robust in the face of calamities, like this time's pandemic Due to the high level of uncertainty on both the supply and demand sides, which creates difficult supply and demand difficulties, a collaborative effort including the government, foreign purchasers, local groups, garment manufacturers, and labor rights organizations is essential However, a concentrated effort involving all of the main stakeholders is very improbable, as the stakeholders' level and the dimension of interest differ Due to the peculiar circumstances, purchasers decided to schedule a crushing season instead of the usual season, affecting the chain of all the parts Individuals in this sector have expressed their concern that it is not easy to return to normal in a short period with financial and other help 3.2 Women in the garment sector: The literature on women's participation in global value chains is mostly concerned with women's fulfillment of low-paid, labor-intensive jobs in the manufacturing sector, a topic that is ubiquitous across industries Women's economic and social empowerment may be impacted in both good and bad ways as a result of this Women's inclusion in global value chains, according to Barrientos (2019) and the World Bank (2013), represents an opportunity for developing countries and emerging economies to integrate themselves into global value chains by utilizing women as a source of cheap labor, allowing companies that employ women in their workforces to compete on price Barrientos (2019) emphasizes the advantages that women have reaped as a result of this inclusion, saying that labor in the food and garment industries that were previously performed by women for free is now being compensated This has the potential to economically empower these women Women can reap greater economic benefits in countries that can upgrade their positions in value chains, as they see opportunities for promotion to traditionally more male-dominated management positions, but they can also reap greater societal benefits as they are afforded increased worker protections as a result of fulfilling roles that can add greater value Increased demand for labor, followed by increased competition for labor, as in the case of the Kenyan flower or Nike apparel value chains, and improved working conditions as a result of public governance (as with minimum wages and labor standards, as in the case of the Kenyan flower value chain) are all examples of what can lead to improved working conditions In such cases, enhanced economic empowerment for women in the value chain may go hand in hand with sociocultural upgrading for women in the industry (Barrientos, 2019) Women's involvement in global value chains, on the other hand, might be counterproductive to their empowerment According to Barrientos, Bianchi, and Berman (2019), when global value chains induce price squeezes, such as when they are controlled by a limited number of lead purchasers, employees' human rights, as well as their income, may be harmed This has the greatest impact on people of certain ethnicities Men and women are treated differently in global value chains, according to Barrientos and colleagues (2019), with women seen as an easily available supply of low-cost labor Barrientos (2019) points out that when manufacturers employing women compete aggressively on price, their pay and workers' rights would be undermined This is especially true when women provide the majority of labor-intensive low-wage labor In such conditions, the social compliance of businesses is weak, with employees missing the ability to protest decisions and social audits failing to detect gender-based discrimination and harassment, among other things (Barrientos et al., 2019) In times of crisis, this might leave women particularly vulnerable In times of crisis, women are more susceptible, according to the Work and Opportunities for Women study Forstater (2010) focuses primarily on the effect of the global financial crisis of 2007–2008 on the global value chains of the clothing industry This arrangement, which saw trends in suppliers diverge, helped to shape the garment sector's dynamics before the crisis A tier of highly competitive "commodity manufacturers" competed on low costs, while a higher value-add consolidated supplier was differentiated from the lower cost "commodity manufacturers." Existing patterns were intensified as a result of the crisis, with pressure being applied to low-cost suppliers resulting in layoffs Among women and migrant workers, this was especially widespread in countries where garment manufacturing had already begun to experience a steady structural decline before the crisis, as well as in countries where garment production had already begun to decrease As Forstater (2010) points out, women in certain countries were exhibiting their susceptibility by participating in low-wage, labor-intensive employment in value chains 3.2.1.COVID-19's economic effect on women in the clothing industry The economic effect on persons working in the garment value chain was caused by COVID-19 supply and demand shocks (CastaedaNavarrete, Hauge, & LópezGómez, 2020) As a result of their dependency on China for raw materials and equipment, Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam were unable to sustain manufacturing (Leitheiser et al., 2020; Sen et al., 2020) In Bangladesh, for example, 93% of manufacturers reported experiencing supply problems during the outbreak (Leitheiser et al., 2020) While supply from China swiftly recovered as virus instances decreased, demand from the US and Europe fell as a result of increased virus cases and accompanying consumer lockdowns While global textile trade increased 40% in Q3 2020 and 16% in Q4 2020 (UNCTAD, 2021), the decline in demand has substantial implications for several manufacturing nations' workforces Output quantities depended partly on demand, but also on a country's capacity to sustain production In contrast, nations with fewer COVID-19 instances were better able to meet the remaining demand: Vietnam, for example, recorded a maximum production drop of -18.3% Indonesia (Yayasan CARE Peduli, 2020), Myanmar (Hall, 2020), and Cambodia (von der Dellen, 2020) Given that women execute the bulk of manufacturing labor, especially unskilled employment, we may assume that negative economic repercussions on garment value chains have disproportionately harmed women There is insufficient evidence on the particular consequences of supply and demand shocks on women in Asia Due to supply and demand fluctuations, all garment makers reported being influenced by supply and demand shocks (IMF, 2021), notwithstanding Vietnam's greater resistance to COVID-19 (Giang & Hong, 2020) In a survey with just six women and three men, both male and female employees reported income losses of 20% to 50% (Giang & Hong, 2020) In surveys of 57 garment workers, the ILO (2020c) found that between 20% and 50% of employees had their income decreased, and 30% had their salary slashed by more than half While Giang and Hong-do not disclose significant variations in income losses between men and women, the fact that this industry employs 80% of women means that women would be disproportionately impacted (Giang & Huong, 2020) In Myanmar, 90 percent of the 700,000 textile workers are women, usually aged 16 to 23, who regularly migrate from rural regions to Yangon (Hall, 2020) Because of the decline in demand for their goods, over half of these individuals may be suspended without pay or lose their employment permanently (Hall, 2020) Interviews with 23 female and five male garment factory workers revealed that canceled orders resulted in factories closing “immediately”, with no advance notice and no pay (Hall, 2020) Hall (2020) emphasizes that not all jobless garment workers in Myanmar will be eligible for government assistance While the government has declared it would compensate 40% of factory workers' salaries, this only applies to those enrolled with the Social Security Board No one addressed this, according to Hall (2020) An Enlightened Myanmar Research Foundation and Andaman Research & Advisory research found that just 29% of Yangon garment workers had written contracts, leaving the rest informally employed and possibly ineligible for government assistance Cambodia's majority-female textile workers also felt the demand shock Cambodia's clothing and footwear sector employs over 770,000 workers, 639,000 of whom are women (83 percent ) It is estimated that canceled orders have impacted 60% of Cambodian companies and 500,000 people (Fair Labor Association, 2020) Despite the recovery of clothing manufacturers, von der Dellen (2020) adds that at the outset of the pandemic 91,500 workers were laid off for one to two months, and up to 200,000 employees (89 percent women) were in danger of losing their jobs Employees who are suspended must be paid 40% of the $190 monthly minimum salary, according to the Fair Labor Association (2020) The government provided $40 every month and the manufacturers agreed to give $30 As a consequence, many suspended employees fell into poverty Supply and demand shocks hit Bangladesh Anner (2020a) reports that 45.8% of suppliers said: “a lot” to “most” of almost finished or completed orders were canceled, while 5.9% had all orders canceled 72.1 percent of purchasers refused to pay for suppliers' raw materials, while 91.3 percent refused to pay for suppliers' production expenses, forcing 58 percent of factories to close 98.1 percent of customers declined to contribute to furlough salaries, and 97.3 percent refused to contribute to severance compensation, leaving manufacturers to cover these expenses despite lack of income As a consequence, 72.4% of furloughed employees were not paid Anner (2019a) shows that this occurred during a period of pricing pressure on suppliers due to an oligopolistic market and rising competition from suppliers in China and Vietnam As a result, both suppliers and their workers had unstable circumstances In the US, like in other nations, the demand shock affects women disproportionately Anner (2019b) puts the figure at 74%, while Better Work Bangladesh (2020) puts it at 61% (Anner, 2019b; Better Work Bangladesh, 2020) Anner (2019b) reports that women earn less than males, with an average monthly pay of $77.34 vs $92.94 for men, and only 4.3 percent reporting that their salaries always covered their living expenditures versus 12.2 percent for men This shows that already insecure employees in this industry are especially exposed to economic shocks Better Work Bangladesh (2020) further states that women are viewed as slower and hence less productive employees than males and that they are less likely to be supervisors than men Women are more likely than males to be laid off in several Indian workplaces, and most women over 40 have not been rehired, according to the Asia Floor Wage Alliance (AFWA, 2020b) This study sought to assess the immediate consequences of COVID-19 on the lives of 255 female textile workers in Bangladesh They were afraid of losing their jobs, not being paid, going hungry, and contracting COVID-19 56% feared lockdowns preventing everyday requirements, 35% feared unpaid wages, 39% suffered food shortages, and 9% were sick This caused mental health difficulties, with 91 percent citing work anxiety, 52 percent worried consumers won't purchase again, 28 percent expecting job loss, and 49 percent anticipating payment delays The fact that women make up a disproportionate number of garment workers means that women are disproportionately impacted by these issues Employers may also target pregnant women for layoffs Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation has filed 50 cases on behalf of pregnant garment workers in Bangladesh who have been fired by employers, while the Bangladesh Garment and Manufacturers Exporters Association disputes this Demand shocks have impacted women in garment factories throughout South and Southeast Asia, but these value networks also involve informal homeworkers Suppliers outsource manufacturing tasks to homeworkers, who are often self-employed This form of labor is vital for women since it allows them to combine work with domestic and family chores It also benefits women who are unable to work outside the house due to religious or cultural gender prejudice (Von Broembsen, 2020) WIEGO (2020a) estimates that five million home workers are employed in the garment industry in India alone A study of 340 textile firms in Delhi and Bengaluru found that 58% use these freelancers (WIEGO, 2020a ) Homeworkers in the clothing industry struggled to keep working during the pandemic because they couldn't stockpile before supply shocks and then were hit by demand shocks that cut orders (WIEGO, 2021a) The OECD recognizes these women as real supply-chain employees, entitled to the same rights as others (WIEGO, 2021a), but they lack institutional support structures (ILO, 2020a; Von Broembsen, 2020) However, governments have committed help for informal house workers: A cash incentive of 5,000 baht (about 50% of minimum wage) was granted to informal workers in Thailand following campaigning by WIEGO (WIEGO, 2021a) WIEGO (2020a) proposes a 2% “supply-chain relief contribution” from purchasers to help homeworkers However, even purchasers who have committed to supporting homeworkers often have little visibility over the workers to whom manufacturers outsource labor, and hence cannot directly assist them (Von Broembsen, 2020) Laut von Broembsen (2020), companies should retain records of homeworkers and their work, and aid in training and formalizing assignments But this is rare Homeworkers are therefore more sensitive to COVID-19's economic effects As previously indicated, several nations have increased output after the first supply and demand shocks Better Work (2021) shows that some manufacturers have moved to make personal protection equipment (PPE) to keep going, however, it is uncertain if this is a viable business model Regardless, the initial decline in demand has impacted many suppliers throughout Asia, and hence many female workers' wages 3.2.2.COVID-19's domestic effects on garment workers COVID-19 affects women's home life because of their simultaneous domestic and commercial roles in the garment value chain While women who have had their hours decreased, furloughed, or laid off due to COVID19 may have more time for domestic and care tasks at home, they have less means to maintain dependents Better Work Bangladesh (2020) also states that domestic workers are more likely to be laid off AFWA reports that childcare facilities at industries in Bengaluru, India, have closed, forcing women to choose between work and childcare duties According to AFWA, in India, teenage girls are being compelled to labor to assist struggling families To support their families, girls in Tamil Nadu are being taken to work and live in spinning mills, raising fears that they will never return to school, that they are working in dangerous circumstances, and that shifts may be up to 16 hours per day (AFWA, 2020b) In Vietnam, both women and men reported increased time spent on domestic labor, although women reported it more than men (Giang & Hong, 2020) The epidemic has raised the demand for unpaid care labor, which is expected to fall on women in Myanmar (Hall, 2020) In Indonesia, CARE (Yayasan CARE Peduli, 2020) reports that women working fewer hours in textile manufacturers are taking on greater care duties Work and Opportunities for Women (WOW, n.d., a) describe many migrant employees returning home due to factory closures However, many rural migrants working in the garment industry are unable to return home due to travel limitations, leaving childcare to other family members in their community Due to the epidemic, many men are working shorter hours, therefore the domestic care duty may be split more equitably between men and women Deshpande (2020) observes that in India, the domestic labor load is now divided more evenly between women and men since more men have lost employment and so have more time to spend on domestic chores Gender-based violence (GBV) is one of the consequences of women and men spending more time at home (WOW, n.d., a; Tejani & Fukuda-Parr, 2021; Homenet South Asia, 2020) GBV rises when women and men spend more time together at home, with few opportunities for women to leave It's difficult to assess the influence on GBV levels since reports don't always represent all incidents Hall (2020) summarizes the research on GBV in Cambodia without concluding whether levels are rising or falling There were 22 informants (17 women and males) who worked in jobs requiring monitoring or reacting to GBV cases, 10 of whom had access to particular case numbers Four reported again, while six reported no change or a decline Most responders did not observe or hear any change in GBV levels Six persons saw an increase, while five had a decline Interestingly, women who saw a drop in GBV ascribed it to males drinking less and bars closing Reduced earnings have led to an upsurge in thefts, which disproportionately harm women (Hall, 2020) These findings should be interpreted with caution due to the limited sample size and the fact that reported cases of GBV may not always correspond to real cases 3.2.3.Women's health in the clothing industry To satisfy client expectations while complying with social distancing norms, suppliers frequently have to choose between their own and their workers' economic stability or their health Employers may not have taken procedures to ensure that health hazards to workers are minimized, according to accumulating research on employer health and safety practices Employers that have established COVID-19 awareness and health and safety policies face challenges about their enforcement and universal application A SEDEX (2020) study of 469 suppliers from 51 countries found that 78% had educated staff on health protection, 72% had adopted physical distance, and 15% had expanded workers' access to health insurance Workers in Cambodia and Vietnam were warned about the dangers of COVID19, according to the ILO (2020f) According to the same document, Sri Lankan workers' temperatures are measured at transit points, and sewing machines and canteen chairs are socially separated (ILO, 2020f) However, the ILO (2020f) warns that any precautions made may not be enforced across factories Also, not all employees may be similarly affected For example, 10% of suppliers responding to SEDEX stated health and safety requirements only applied to regular employees, putting contractors and informal labor in danger (SEDEX, 2020) It is noted that although certain steps are implemented – such as PPE – others are not – such as social separation According to the ILO (2020f), just 20% of individuals polled in Cambodia stated social distancing mechanisms were in place in common spaces such as canteens, and only 14% said work areas had been altered to allow for social distance The ILO (2020f) reports that over half of those questioned in Bangladesh had not obtained PPE In Myanmar, respondents claimed clothing manufacturers supplied masks, sanitizer, and hand-washing facilities, while some felt more was required To safeguard employees' health, trade unions in Cambodia pushed the government to temporarily cease garment manufacturing, however many workers returned to work within months (von der Dellen, 2020) Homeworkers are in danger, according to Homenet South Asia (2020), since they work in close quarters with others and lack access to PPE or sanitizer The epidemic has also caused concerns with mental and reproductive health A CARE (2020) poll of Bangladeshi textile factory workers found 91% concerned about their employment According to Better Work Bangladesh (2020), women who lost income due to the pandemic were less likely to buy sexual and reproductive health items Women who work in the garment value chain seem to be in danger of harmful working conditions if they return to factories Women may also be forced to choose between returning to dangerous jobs or losing money IMPACT OF COVID 19 ON GLOBAL VALUE CHAIN OF SOUTHEAST ASIA’S NATIONS: 4.1 China: One may argue that COVID-19 has wreaked havoc on global value chains COVID-19, on the other hand, has a varied influence on each country's commercial sector Businesses that sell sporting equipment, for example, are anticipated to rebound when lockdown restrictions are eased and outlets in big marketplaces reopen Meanwhile, firms that sell formal attire continue to face several obstacles For China - dubbed the "world's factory" - the global value chain has triggered a severe earthquake Because, since the US-China trade war began in 2018, the US and many developed Western countries have pushed for the process of "decoupling" the supply chain from China Rather than that, countries rely on supply chains in Asia, particularly Southeast Asian countries such as Vietnam Until the end of 2019, the strong outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic disrupted supply and demand in this country, resulting in a severe economic crisis For the garment industry, China is still a major supplier to the world, particularly South Asian countries, when it comes to products such as added-value synthetic fibers, winter wear fabrics, shoes, slippers, polyurethane tape, clothing, and nonwoven rolls, but they also believe that it will take at least six to nine months for the clothing supply chain to return to normal In such a scenario, nations such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam that are linked to China's global value chain, such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam, will be unable to continue producing owing to their reliance on raw materials as well as Chinese equipment (Leitheiser et al., 2020; Sen et al., 2020) In Bangladesh, for instance, 93% of producers reported experiencing supply problems during the outbreak (Leitheiser et al., 2020) 4.2 Myanmar: Approximately 50% of workers in this nation face being laid off without compensation or permanently losing their employment owing to a decline in demand for their products (Hall, 2020) Hall said that 64% of enterprises in Myanmar are projected to encounter cash flow difficulties, posing a danger to the garment industry's viability Interviews with 23 female and five male garment industry workers reveal that lost orders resulted in the firm closing "immediately," without notifying employees in advance or paying them salaries (Hall, 2020) Indeed, 58,000 garment workers are presently unemployed in Myanmar, but not all are eligible for government assistance Although the government has indicated that it will compensate 40% of earnings for workers in shuttered industries, this figure covers only employees who are registered with the Social Security Commission festival Employees who have engaged in an employment contract face the same non-payment of compensation To be more precise, a 2017 survey showed that just 29% of garment workers in Yangon with signed contracts are likely to be ineligible for government assistance (Myanmar Research Fund and Andaman Research & Advisory, 2017) 4.3 Cambodia: Cambodia, too, experienced a demand shock that impacted the labor Around 770,000 people are employed in Cambodia's clothing and footwear industries However, according to the Fair Labor Association, canceled orders would affect 60% of industries and 500,000 workers in Cambodia by 2020 Although the Cambodian government says that 90% of garment workers have returned to work as of April, 91,500 workers were laid off for one to two months at the onset of the pandemic, and up to 200,000 workers are at risk of losing their employment According to the Fair Labor Association (2020), companies must obtain government consent before suspending workers and must compensate them at 40% of the monthly minimum salary of 190 USD Von Der Dellen (2020) recalls, however, that the manufacturers finally agreed to give $30 per month in addition to the $40 provided by the government As a result, many prosperous employees were thrown into poverty 4.4 Bangladesh: Bangladesh is similarly subject to supply and demand shocks Anner (2020a) claimed that 45.8 percent of suppliers indicated that the majority of orders were virtually canceled and 5.9 percent of suppliers indicated that they have canceled all orders Around 72.1 percent of buyers refused to pay for the raw materials purchased by the supplier; 91.3 percent refused to pay for the supplier's production costs, and 58 percent of manufacturers were forced to close the majority or all of their activities Over one million garment workers in Bangladesh have been laid off or laid off; 98.1 percent of buyers have refused to contribute to wage increases and 97.3 percent have refused to contribute to severance pay, and factories have received little or no government assistance, leaving factories to cover these costs on their own despite their lack of revenue As a result, 72.4 percent of lowwage workers were sent home on unpaid leave Anner (2019a) argues that all of this occurred within a background of pricing pressure on suppliers that have been ongoing for some years, owing to a mix of oligopolistic markets and greater supplier rivalry China and Vietnam are both sources of supplies As a result, both suppliers and their employees have faced considerable uncertainty 4.5 Vietnam: Garments are considered as one of the key sectors of many economies, which Vietnam is also one of the countries that consider garment and garment as a key industry In recent years, Vietnam's garment and garment industry has made positive strides in terms of both production and export In which, the average growth rate of garment and garment production in the period 2016 - 2020 reached 7.9%/year, in 2018 alone it increased by over 33% In the first months of 2021, the garment and garment industry has had more positive signs than the same period last year thanks to the recovery of the production chain with the increase of traditional orders According to data from the Vietnam Garment and Apparel Association (VITAS), Vietnam's total garment and garment export turnover in the first nine months of 2021 reached $29 billion, up 13.2% over the same period in 2020 and down 0.04% compared with the same period in 2019 In which, key export products increased over the same period last year, specifically: Garments reached 21.7 billion USD, up 5%; fabric reached 1.8 billion USD, up 37.4%; fiber reached billion USD, up 56.2%; non-woven fabrics reached USD 557 million, up 77.3%; garment and garment accessories reached $921 million, up 21.8% Total import turnover of raw materials and auxiliary materials reached 18 billion USD, up 27.9% over the same period in 2020 However, until the beginning of the third quarter of 2021, it has been an extremely difficult time for Vietnamese garment and garment enterprises with the extremely complicated and prolonged development of the COVID-19 epidemic in Ho Chi Minh City Ho Chi Minh City and the southern provinces cause businesses to face a series of challenges: closing, stopping production, producing in moderation, being unable to fulfill orders, having to deliver late, delivering by plane, or being delayed Order cancellations cause supply chain disruptions Many businesses in the southern provinces, despite trying to arrange production "3 on-site", "1 route - destinations" or production plan "4 green" but still only maintain about 10% - 30 % of laborers go to work, the costs incurred are large That not only causes damage not only in terms of economy but also a reputation for customers These things are clearly shown in the number of exports in August decreased by 15.9% compared to July 2021 and decreased by 2.63% compared to August 2020; September exports reached billion USD, continuing to decrease 9.2% compared to August 2021 and 10.5% compared to September 2020 POST COVID-19 GARMENT INDUSTRY ANALYSIS: Many Southeast Asian nations can compete in the labor-intensive garment and footwear manufacturing industries because of their comparatively low labor costs, strategic locations, market accessibility, favorable schools, and supporting government policies Simultaneously, other nations continue to prioritize high volumes of low-value-added products, relying heavily on cheap labor as their primary competitive edge (Huynh 2015) While there are certain benefits in the global market, the garment and apparel sector faced several severe obstacles when the COVID-19 epidemic erupted To begin, the suspension of commerce between nations to prevent the spread of the illness has had a devastating impact on global supply networks An excellent example is Chinese handcrafted items that have been trapped in the nation for an extended period, resulting in nearly abandoned orders This demonstrates the vulnerability of Southeast Asian garment and garment makers to supply chain disruptions as a result of their over-reliance on a few major raw material sources Numerous Southeast Asian businesses have been forced to cease operations and lay off staff as a result of order cancellations and production constraints Additionally, the COVID-19 outbreak altered people's behaviors, resulting in adjustments to everyday demands Along with the supply chain shortfall, there is resource scarcity, including the timing and size of local input production; and the industry's productivity has been hampered by the industry's inconsistent power supply system Rising labor expenses, particularly in some countries, have increased economic pressure and contributed to low worker productivity, both of which are issues in the context of the COVID-19 pandemic The garment industry in some Asian nations (Bangladesh): COVID-19 has had a profoundly damaging effect on the world economy's economic sectors It is also hard to avoid the strong wave of arriving from this century's pandemic, particularly in Asian nations whose manufacturing strength is in garment items Bangladesh - one of ten Asian nations with significant garment and apparel production capability - also suffered from COVID's influence - 19 Previously, particularly during 2018 and 2019, Bangladesh was the second biggest garment provider in the global clothing supply chain, with 34.13 billion USD in export revenue However, until the COVID-19 epidemic in late 2019 or early 2020, this country's garment exports were badly harmed Export revenue was 27.94 billion USD, down roughly 20% with an absolute value of more than billion USD from pre-epidemic levels (according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau - EPB of Bangladesh) Bangladesh had lost its status as the world's second-biggest garment maker at the time and had been supplanted by Vietnam, which projected an export revenue of around 29 billion USD by the end of 2020 (According to statistics of Vietnam) In response to this circumstance, the Bangladesh government has also taken measures to give prompt assistance packages to assist companies in resolving their problems Additionally, several measures such as deferring loan payments, lowering interest rates, and promoting payment services have all contributed to the garment industry's prosperity in this country Bangladesh's timely support has increased the country's garment export revenue to 31.5 billion USD in the 20202021 fiscal year (which ends in June 2021) (the whole industry reached 38.7 billion USD) USD), an almost 13% rise over the same period last year, although still 7% lower than the figure from 2018-2019 before the outbreak Exports of knitwear climbed by 21.94 percent year on year to about 17 billion USD, while exports of woven products increased by 3.24 percent year on year to 14.5 billion USD, led by exports of knitted goods Domestic garment exports climbed by 49.17 percent year over year to 1.13 billion USD CONCLUSION: Due to low entry hurdles, accessible technology, and widely available skills, the textile and clothing sector is critical to the development of the majority of the world's emerging economies, especially countries in South and Southeast Asia rapidly absorbed The textile industry in Vietnam is currently worth around US$200 billion and is predicted to increase at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 12% to US$350 billion by 2024 It provides 3% to India's gross domestic product (GDP) in 2018-19, 13% to industrial revenue, and 12% to export profits, in addition to employing over 45 million people Especially Bangladesh, which accounts for 6.4% of the worldwide market The textile sector accounts for around 16% and 80% of Bangladesh's GDP and export profits, respectively, and employs over million people (Majumdar and Sinha, 2019) Vietnam is the third-largest exporter of clothes, accounting for 6.2 percent of the worldwide market Around 2.5 million people are employed in the region Vietnam has over 6000 textile and garment manufacturing enterprises, with 70% of them engaged in apparel manufacture Textiles, together with tourism, are one of Cambodia's two main industries The textile and apparel sector in Cambodia employs around 3.35 million people, 90 percent of whom are women By and large, the textile and garment industry, which employs a vast number of people, contributes significantly to the economies and employment of South and Southeast Asian countries COVID-19's breakout has impacted the bulk of the world's supply networks According to multiple sources, up to 94% of Fortune 1000 firms have suffered supply chain disruptions as a result of COVID-19 (Ivanov, 2020; Fortune 2020) The epidemic of COVID-19 has had a major effect on the worldwide supply chain and demand for garments as a whole Leading exporters such as Bangladesh have grown anxious as raw material supplies have dwindled and orders have decreased Although several publications have highlighted a variety of aspects to consider about supply chain resilience in the event of a worldwide pandemic, there are still a few trustworthy indicators for suppliers in various nations COVID-19 has had a significant impact on the apparel sector in Southeast Asia Order cancellations and manufacturing constraints have compelled several Southeast Asian businesses to close their doors and lay off staff The industry's pre-pandemic issues have been compounded, resulting in increased volatility and shortages of factors of production such as raw materials, affecting many segments of the value chain Closures of manufacturing plants in other nations have hampered imports and interrupted garment production ADMINISTRATIVE IMPLICATIONS: The COVID-19 pandemic issue has had a severe impact on employees, particularly vulnerable workers and female workers Faced with this reality, governments must place a greater emphasis on data collection on employees engaged in global value chains, segmented by gender, age, ethnic origin, and income, to better comprehend the gender and disaggregated implications of future events such as COVID-19 This research focuses on labor-intensive industries, which frequently employ low-skilled and low-paid individuals As a result, a management strategy that both mitigates disruption risk and is receptive to vulnerable workers and female workers is critical Additionally, a critical policy issue for policymakers is to alleviate the burden of migratory labor 7.1 Enterprise policy: Government organizations can aid clothing manufacturers in a variety of ways, including by suspending bank interest and principal payments, exempting them from anti-dumping penalties, and reducing bank interest rates are all actions that will assist the garment sector in reviving more quickly and minimizing worker injuries Additionally, firms and suppliers should explore alternative sourcing models as appropriate Risk-sharing clauses must be included in the sourcing model to ensure that both parties share the loss in the case of an unforeseenbut-possible interruption Additionally, this new sourcing strategy must be organized through industry associations (CMAI, Bangladesh Gar-referring Manufacturers and Exporters Association, or BGMEA, for example) or non-governmental organizations (NGOs) involved in long-term relationships Brands will bear the increased economic burden associated with risk-sharing This may be incorporated into the price model, however, because social sustainability costs can be combined with corporate social responsibility – medical spending Adopting this sourcing approach can assist businesses in establishing a more sustainable image Additionally, businesses should mix 'Localisation' with 'Globalisation' to create the innovative 'Glocali-sation' as a new sourcing approach to lessen reliance their reliance on a single source of supply or country Suppliers interviewed thought that the COVID-19 post, India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia might seize this chance to provide credible alternatives to the new label "We have received several questions regarding our manufacturing capacity and lead time from potential overseas clients amid this COVID-19 problem." If a supplier has acquired raw materials but has not yet begun manufacturing the garment, the brand must reimburse a portion of the material's cost, i.e the fabric, in the event of order cancellation If the item is made (cut and sewed), the brand will cover the cost of textiles and manufacturing, including labor 7.2 Employee policy: The role of industry organizations or non-governmental organizations (NGOs) will be to ensure that social issues such as child labor, forced labor, voluntary non-work, excessive overtime, discrimination against treatment, health and safety, reasonable compensation, and emergency savings are clearly stated and practiced by all stakeholders Businesses will face pressure from industry associations, non-governmental organizations, and national human rights organizations to ensure that workers earn a living wage sufficient to meet basic needs (food, clothing, housing, education, and women's health care) and to ensure a life of necessities Continue to compensate workers and therefore reduce their reliance on public assistance programs Social safeguards for disadvantaged employees, particularly those in informal employment and hence not entitled to the same degree of protection as formal workers, must be strengthened This should also include safeguards for employees and pregnant women who are at a higher risk of losing their jobs or income Several interviews- Wees advised that companies could use labor mobility to prioritize the supplier selection and order allocation process This will motivate suppliers to avoid contract terminations, at least in part, and will provide workers with more job security Much of the economic instability experienced by women in the textile manufacturing business is a result of purchasers canceling or refusing to pay for finished orders or purchased materials As a result, it is vital to implement specific regulations regarding garment purchasers Buyers across the global textile and electronics value chains must be held responsible for their crisis-related order-busting acts Both electronics and textile value chains have buyers who are accountable for the circumstances in their supply networks COVID-19 has also compelled productive women in value chains to labor in hazardous situations to fulfill demand, resulting in decreased employment rates When analyzing a buyer's ESG practices, their connection with suppliers and any efforts made to mitigate issues with fair working standards should be considered across the supply chain, including but not limited to their prompt payment of suppliers during the epidemic and the steps taken to ensure that suppliers adhere to proper working standards 7.3 Government policy: Governments have taken immediate measures, such as wage assistance, to lessen the pandemic's impact on the industry In the long run, a variety of governmental measures might help the industry overcome obstacles and achieve greater, more sustainable development Increase your competitiveness Enhancing competitiveness via productivity improvements is critical for the industry to sustain its development potential Specifically, I reviewing growth-restraining policies such as high raw material tariffs and cumbersome export permit procedures that contribute to high production costs; (ii) upgrading vocational curricula and expanding access to training, particularly in rural areas; and (iii) promoting the adoption of digital technologies such as smart factories and additive manufacturing that enable mass customization of products Market expansion At the moment, the region's exports are concentrated on a few key destinations, namely the European Union and the United States There is a possibility that the trade privileges that facilitate such exports will eventually be revoked or graduated To remain competitive, the sector must also explore product diversification and manufacture higher-value-added clothes With customers abandoning mass-produced clothing, governments may be able to incentivize businesses to develop more complex product offers (McKinsey & Company 2019) Increase the industry's resiliency Increased productivity and the use of more advanced manufacturing technology can help the industry withstand future demand shocks According to ADB research, implementing new technology in the sector may boost employee productivity by an average of 22% over the following five years (According to the Asian Development Bank, 2021) A greater focus should be placed on shorter supply chains, alternative local suppliers, and local marketplaces Governments might also invest in machinery, training people, and courting international investors to enable higher-value-added manufacturing practices Finally, the adoption of the circular economy has been proposed as a sustainable way to pursue recovery across industries, including garment manufacturing, where there has been an increased focus on inefficient resource use, polluting effects, and overproduction (Centre for the Promotion of Imports 2020 and Wijayasundara 2020) Strive towards more adaptable manufacturing and business strategies To enhance enterprises' flexibility in the face of future shocks, garment manufacturers may need to be able to switch between production types in response to changing customer demand Governments can lead research and development (R&D) into new technologies and their implementation in such industries, which would also require personnel with a variety of transferrable skills REFERENCE AFWA (2020b) Garment supply chains in the time of pandemic (The Emperor Has No Clothes Issue II) Asia Floor Wage Alliance Retrieved from https://respect.international/wpcontent/uploads/2020/06/THE-EMPEROR-HAS-NOCLOTHES-GARMENT-SUPPLYCHAINS-IN-THE-TIME-OF-PANDEMIC.pdf (accessed 23 March 2021 Andersson, S., A Machiels, and C Bodwell 2019 Securing the Competitiveness of Asia’s Garment Sector: A Framework for Enhancing Factory-Level Productivity ILO Asia- Pacific Working Paper Series Bangkok: International Labour Organization (ILO) Anner, M (2019a) Predatory purchasing practices in global apparel supply chains and the employment relations squeeze in the Indian garment export industry International Labour Review, 158(4): 705–727 Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1111/ilr.12149 (accessed 30 April 2021) Anner, M (2019b) Squeezing workers’ rights in global supply chains: Purchasing practices in the Bangladesh garment export sector in comparative perspective Review of International Political Economy, 27(2): 320–347 Anner, M (2020a) Abandoned? 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