Hair Shampoo Care basic training Seoul May 2009 Hair Cleansing Agenda typical composition of a shampoo types of surfactants dermal and ocular compatibility of surfactants mild shampoo concepts selected shampoo categories Typical Shampoo Composition use cleansing, foaming appearance conditioning / product claims sensorial acceptance microbiological stability ingredients quantity [%] basic surfactants - 10 co surfactants pearlshine, thickeners, auxiliaries 2-5 0-6 cationic additives silicones, waxy emollients 0.1 - perfumes colours preservatives 1-3 water up to 100 Major ingredients of a Shampoo ingredients Active/ Care ingred., Cationic polymers Preservatives, perfume, colours pearlshine wax/ concentrate, opacifyer thickener co surfactants Basic/ primary surfactants water Active Ingredients: Claim Support Natural & Silikon Oils, Botanical Extracts, Ceramides, Proteins, LS actives Care Ingredients: Repair, Gloss, Anti–hair-breakage Emollients, Waxes, Proteins Cationic Polymers: Conditioning + foam PQ 7, PQ 10, PQ44, cationic Guar Pearlshine Waxes/ Concentrates,Opacifier: optical effects, pearly, rich appearance Glycol Distearate, PEG-3 Distearate, PEG-4 Distearylether emulsion like appearance Styrene Acrylates,Glycol Distearate Thickener: Appearance and Handling Micellar Thickeners (Salt, FattyAlcohol Ethoxilates, Alkanolamides) or Associative Thickeners (Polymers like Acrylates, Arlypon TT) Co-Surfactant: Mildness of formulation, synergistic effects, improved foam APG, Betaines, Cocoampho Acetates, Succinates, Basic/ Primary -Surfactant: Cleansing, Foam Fatty Alcohol Ether Sulfates, APG,Fatty Alcohol Sulfates Categories of Shampoos The most important within the global top 20 brands 2-in-1 moisture color repair normal / every day volume antidandruff clarifying greasy kids men oily roots/dry ends energy 10 15 20 25 nominations Classification of Surfactants types of surfactants - + anionic surfactant primary surfactants alkyl/fatty alcohol ethersulfate alkyl/fatty alcohol sulfate soap/carboxylate alkyl phosphate alkyl etherphosphate cationic surfactant co-surfactants sulfo succinate anionic APG +- betaines quaternary ammonium compounds nonionic surfactant amphoteric surfactant alkylamidopropyl betaine alkyl betaine amphoterics ampho acetate alkyl polyglucoside fatty alcohol ethoxylate fatty acid ethoxylate fatty acid alkanolamide sorbitane fatty acid ester Relevant test models for shampoos Dermatological Tests : RBC test = ocular/ mucous membrane irritation potential HET-CAM test = ocular/ mucous membrane irritation potential Reconstituted Skin Models = Skinethic, acute eye irritation test Red blood cell test (RBC-Test) Classification of the mucous membrane irritation potential based on the H50/DI (lysis / denaturation index) quotient Low irritation potential 1000 H50/DI Classification > 100 Not irritating > 10 Slightly irritating Moderately irritating H50/DI 100 10 >1 > 0.1 Irritating < 0.1 Severely irritating 0,1 0.1 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Coco Glucoside Laureth-7 Citrate pH appr 7.4 High irritation potential Hen’s egg test – chorionallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) The irritation score is dependent on the appearance and severity of: - Haemorrhaging (bleeding) - Vascular lysis (blood vessel disintegration) - Coagulation (intra- and extra vascular protein denaturation) Q Classification < 0.8 Slightly irritating > 0.8 < 1.2 Moderately irritating > 1.2 < 2.0 Irritating > 2.1 Severely irritating Invittox protocol IP47 Modifications of the protocol: - In general, % AS are tested - pH is adjusted to pH 6.5 prior to use - If possible, the reaction-time method is used rather than endpoint analyses Hen’s egg test – chorionallantoic membrane (HET-CAM) Classification of the mucous membrane irritation potential based on the relative irritation potential Q High irritation potential Q Classification < 0.8 Slightly irritating 1.5 1,5 > 0.8 < 1.2 Moderately irritating > 1.2 < 2.0 Irritating > 2.1 Severely irritating Q [relative irritation score] 2.5 2,5 0.5 0,5 Low irritation potential Am monium Lauryl Sulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Laureth Sulfate Coco Glucoside Laureth-7 Citrate Test concentration: 3% AS pH appr 6.5 Report: 01-1104-4233 Dec 2004 10 Shampoo - Hair Volume 37 Shampoo - Hair Volume (No.: HB-DE/04/138/19) INCI Ingredient Sodium Laureth Sulfate Texaponđ N 70 Laureth-7 Citrate Calcium Chloride Plantaponđ LC7 CaCl2ã2H2O Fragrance Preservative Sodium Chloride Sodium Hydroxide water perfume preservative NaCl NaOH 10% water pH-value viscosity mPa·s WAS % (as is) (active) 18.6 13.0 Function Surfactant 2.0 1.6 Conditioning agent Complexing agent 0.3 0.6 1.3 1.0 74.6 viscosity adjustment pH adjustment 5.5 4200 13.0 38 Shampoo - Hair Volume Simultaneous hair washing test = Market Shampoo N Half head test evaluation with 10 persons = Shampoo HB-DE/04/138/19 Appearance Build-up after day 5☺ Build-up Take out properties Consistency Spreadability Manageability Anti-electrostatic effect Flash foam [pre-wash] Volume Amount foam [pre-wash] Amount foam [main-wash] Shine Curl retention Foam texture Feel [dry-hair] Skin feeling Combing [dry-hair] Report: Schrader 857857-BLBL-0505-022022-0505-522 03.01.2006 Drying time Drying properties Rinseability Combing [wet-hair] rating system used for evaluation: = very good = good = satisfactory = poor = very poor Feel [wet-hair] 39 Shampoo - Hair Volume Assessment of hair volume / strands me u l vo l ² r i CaC f o s se t plu a re tan c n g i rfac n u o Str by s [%] relative volume 200 150 100 50 Market Shampoo PSV Test Report HL 2006/6 / SM 2006/5 21.01 / 10.04.2006 Market Shampoo ESV Market Market Shampoo DV Shampoo N HBDE/04/138/19 after combing 40 Anti-dandruff Shampoo Reasons for dandruff formation: • increased cell profileration rate • microorganisms • increased sebum production 41 Anti-dandruff Shampoo Formulation concept: • mild surfactant basis • clear or pearlescent • dispersing agent / viscosity agent • complexing agent • active ingredient 42 Anti-dandruff Shampoo Active ingredients: • zinc pyrithione • piroctone olamine • climbazole • salicylic acid • undecylenic acid derivatives 43 Anti-dandruff Shampoo Sulfrin: Head & Shoulders: Ingredients: Ingredients: Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Chloride, Propylamine Oxide, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-16, Sodium Benzoate, Sorbic Acid, Zinc Pyrithione, C.I 42090, C.I 60730, Parfum Aqua, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Chloride, PEG-12, Zinc Pyrithione, Sodium Phosphate, Disodium Phosphate, Polyquaternium-10, Lauryl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Sulfate, Tetrasodium EDTA, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Polynaphthalenesulfonate, Parfum, C.I 42090 44 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo (No.: DE/99/071/1) INCI Ingredient Sodium Laureth Sulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine Coco-Glucoside Texapon® N70 Dehyton® PK 45 Plantacare® 818 UP Coco Glucoside and GMO Climbazole Lamesoft® PO 65 Crinipan® AD Perfume Preservative Sodium Chloride Aqua pH-value viscosity mPa.s NaCl Water % (as is) (active) 17.2 2.5 8.5 4.5 0.5 12.04% 1.00% 4.25% premix ~ ~ 1.5 to 100.0 Function Surfactant Secondary Surfactant Active surfactant Active solubiliser Active ingredient viscosity adjustment 5.5 2400 Preparations in the laboratory Premix: Solve the Crinipan AD at + 60°C into Lamesoft® PO 65 separately Mix the surfactant with water and add the premix at room temperature Stir till it is a homogeneous clear shampoo 45 Summary / Hair Cleansing dermal and ocular compatibility of surfactants shampoo „mild concept“ shampoo for dry / damaged hair two in one shampoo protection / repair shampoo shampoo - hair volume anti-dandruff shampoo 46 Back up 47 Red blood cell test (RBC-Test) H? oglobin-Denaturation durch SDS 100 > 100 Not irritating > 10 Slightly irritating >1 Moderately irritating > 0.1 Irritating < 0.1 Severely irritating 1,4 80 1,2 Extinktion H? olyse [%] L50 or H50 60 40 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 20 500 550 600 650 Wellenl? ge [nm] 101 102 SDS [킽 /ml] H50: This value depicts the DI: The denaturation index H50/DI: This ratio is an concentration of the 1,0405 tested Y Range 100,0916 IC 50 28,1384 0,2149 substance at which 50% of the Slope factor -7,0637 0,3556 Background 0,1912 0,7739 erythrocytes are lysed is determined by the doseresponse curve (hemolysis => measure of membrane damage) 530nm or 560nm describes the potential of a substance to denature proteins – in this case, hemoglobin; release of oxyhemoglobin is measured 575nm and 540nm indication of the ocular irritancy potential of a tested substance – it is used in analogy to the Draize-Test Parameter Value Std Error INVITTOX-Protocol Nr 37 or ZEBET-Protocol Nr 30 * Pape and Hoppe, Drug Res 40, 498-502 (1990) Modifications of the protocol: - Porcine erythrocytes are used - pH is adjusted to pH 7.4 prior to use 48 Reconstituted tissue models: e.g Skinethic day 10 day 17 -Evaluation of cell toxicity via MTT-tests (methyltetrazolium- test) -Histology - [optional: Release of inflammatory factors: e.g interleukin (IL) -1α, α, IL-8)] )] 49 Reconstituted tissue models: e.g Skinethic Skinethic acute eye irritation test: MTT values at h Low irritation potential 100 MTT h 80 60 40 20 High irritation potential Sodium Laure th Sulfate Am m onium Lauryl Sulfate Cocam idopropyl Be taine Coco Glucos ide Laur e th-7 Citrate 50 Reconstituted tissue models: e.g Skinethic Skinethic acute eye irritation test: Histology at 10 & h Low irritation potential Laureth 7-Citrate Sodium Laureth Sulfate High irritation potential Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate 51 ... clear shampoo 45 Summary / Hair Cleansing dermal and ocular compatibility of surfactants shampoo „mild concept“ shampoo for dry / damaged hair two in one shampoo protection / repair shampoo shampoo... Report HL 2006/6 / SM 2006/5 21.01 / 10.04.2006 Market Shampoo ESV Market Market Shampoo DV Shampoo N HBDE/04/138/19 after combing 40 Anti-dandruff Shampoo Reasons for dandruff formation: • increased... Agenda typical composition of a shampoo types of surfactants dermal and ocular compatibility of surfactants mild shampoo concepts selected shampoo categories Typical Shampoo Composition use cleansing,