California Studies in Food and Culture DARRA GOLDSTEIN, EDITOR Dangerous Tastes: The Story of Spices, by Andrew Dalby Eating Right in the Renaissance, by Ken Albala Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, by Marion Nestle Camembert: A National Myth, by Pierre Boisard Safe Food: Bacteria, Biotechnology, and Bioterrorism, by Marion Nestle Eating Apes, by Dale Peterson Revolution at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet, by Harvey Levenstein Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America, by Harvey Levenstein Encarnación’s Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California: Selections from Encarnación Pinedo’s El cocinero espol, by Encarnación Pinedo, edited and translated by Dan Strehl, with an essay by Victor Valle Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wine, by Charles L Sullivan, with a foreword by Paul Draper E NC A R NAC I ÓN ’S K I TC H E N ENCARNACIĨN’S KITCHEN MEXICAN RECIPES FROM NINETEENTH-CENTURY CALIFORNIA Selections from Encarnación Pinedo’s El cocinero español a EDITED AND TRANSLATED BY DA N S T R E H L WITH AN ESSAY BY VICTOR VALLE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS Berkeley Los Angeles London Frontispiece: Encarnación Pinedo, ca 1864 (Photograph by H Schoene, artist and photographer, Santa Clara, California; reproduced courtesy of Santa Clara University Archives.) University of California Press Berkeley and Los Angeles, California University of California Press, Ltd London, England © 2003 by the Regents of the University of California Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Pinedo, Encarnación, b 1848 [Cocinero espol Selections English] Encarnación’s kitchen : Mexican recipes from nineteenth-century California / edited and translated by Dan Strehl ; with an essay by Victor Valle p cm.—(California studies in food and culture ; 9) Includes bibliographical references and index isbn 0-520-23651-3 (cloth : alk paper) Cookery, Mexican California Cookery— I Strehl, Dan tx716.m4 p553213 II Title III Series 2003 641.5972—dc21 2002041379 Manufactured in Canada 12 11 10 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 The paper used in this publication is both acidfree and totally chlorine-free (tcf) It meets the minimum requirements of ansi/niso z39.48–1992 (r 1997) (Permanence of Paper).8 CON T E N T S Acknowledgments / vii A Curse of Tea and Potatoes: The Life and Recipes of Encarnación Pinedo VICTOR VALLE / In Encarnación’s Kitchen DAN STREHL / 19 EL COCINERO ESPAÑOL THE SPANISH COOK A Note on the Text 43 Dedication 45 Introduction: The Art of Cooking 47 RECETAS RECIPES S O P A S , P A N , H U E V O S Soups, Breads, Eggs 57 P E S C A D O Fish 71 A V E S Poultry 81 C A R N E Meat 94 V E R D U R A S Y M A Í Z Vegetable and Corn Dishes 116 R E L L E N O S Stuffings 144 S A L S A S Sauces 148 D U L C E S Desserts and Sweets 159 Ingredients and Procedures / 193 Bibliography / 197 Index / 205 A C K NOW L E DG M E N T S This reincarnation of Encarnación Pinedo has been aided by many people Ruth Reichl, then at the Los Angeles Times, was the first to republish Pinedo’s recipes, in an article on the history of California cuisine Nohemi Carrasco Walker and her husband, J Michael, have helped by checking my translations and clarifying traditional culinary technique Master printer Vance Gerry published The Spanish Cook, a selection of Pinedo’s recipes, in a fine-press edition from the Weather Bird Press Victor and Mary Lau Valle and I have been discussing Pinedo for many years, and she was included in their Recipe of Memory Joan Nielsen Castle scripted her into a Too Hot Tamales segment on the Television Food Network In Santa Clara, Charlene Duval, Sourisseau Academy for State and Local History, San Jose State University, gave good direction and introduced me to many local sources, including Bob Johnson at the California Room, San Jose Public Library Anne McMahon, university archivist, Santa Clara University Archives, remarkably found Pinedo photographs Lorie Garcia, a historian in Santa Clara, was immensely helpful and was a source of all things Berreyesa Paula Jabloner, archivist at History San José, was also very helpful in providing photographs At the Huntington Library, Jennifer Watts found photographs, and Stephen Tabor helped decipher Encarnación’s jumbled citations to early English books vii ... Eating in Modern America, by Harvey Levenstein Encarnación’s Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California: Selections from Encarnación Pinedo’s El cocinero espol, by Encarnación... Paul Draper E NC A R NAC I ÓN ’S K I TC H E N ENCARNACIÓN’S KITCHEN MEXICAN RECIPES FROM NINETEENTH-CENTURY CALIFORNIA Selections from Encarnación Pinedo’s El cocinero español a EDITED AND TRANSLATED... Selections English] Encarnación’s kitchen : Mexican recipes from nineteenth-century California / edited and translated by Dan Strehl ; with an essay by Victor Valle p cm.— (California studies in food