Cuba 2nd Edition by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E Schlecht Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers About the Authors Eliot Greenspan is a poet, journalist, and travel writer who took his backpack and typewriter the length of Mesoamerica before settling in Costa Rica in 1992 Since then, he has worked steadily for the Tico Times and other local media He is also the author of Frommer’s Costa Rica and Frommer’s Belize, as well as the chapter on Venezuela in Frommer’s South America Neil E Schlecht is the author and co-author of a dozen travel guides (including Spain For Dummies, Frommer’s South America, and Frommer’s Peru), as well as articles on art and culture and art catalogue essays, and is also a photographer He now resides in northwestern Connecticut Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc 111 River St Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2005 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey All rights reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/ 750-8400, fax 978/646-8600 Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/572-4355, E-Mail: brandreview@ wiley.com Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc and/or its affiliates Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer Used under license All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners Wiley Publishing, Inc is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book ISBN 0-7645-7433-7 Editor: Myka Carroll Del Barrio Production Editor: Suzanna R Thompson Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: A bass player in Trinidad Back cover photo: A family holiday at Varadero For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S at 800/762-2974, outside the U.S at 317/572-3993 or fax 317/572-4002 Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats Manufactured in the United States of America Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in Cuba The Best of Cuba by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E Schlecht The Best Cuban Travel Experiences The Best Historical Sights The Best of Natural Cuba The Best Outdoor Adventures The Best Beaches The Best Resort Hotels The Best Hotels The Best Casas Particulares 10 The Best Restaurants & Paladares 11 10 The Best of Cuban Nightlife 12 11 The Best of Cuba Online 13 Planning Your Trip to Cuba 14 by Eliot Greenspan The Regions in Brief 14 Visitor Information 17 Entry Requirements & Customs 18 Gifts & Other Assistance 21 Money 22 When to Go 24 Calendar of Events 25 Insurance, Health & Safety 27 Specialized Travel Resources 30 Race Relations in Cuba 31 The 21st-Century Traveler 32 Online Traveler’s Toolbox 33 Havana Planning Your Trip Online 33 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource 34 Getting There 34 Escorted Tours, Package Deals & Special-Interest Vacations 36 Getting Around 38 Tips on Accommodations 41 Tips on Dining 42 The Active Vacation Planner 43 Suggested Itineraries 45 Recommended Reading 46 Fast Facts: Cuba 47 52 by Eliot Greenspan Orientation 52 The Neighborhoods in Brief 55 Getting Around 58 Fast Facts: Havana 61 Where to Stay 63 Where to Dine 76 What to See & Do 83 Suggested Itineraries 83 A Quick Key to Havana’s Parks & Plazas 86 iv CONTENTS Frommer’s Favorite Havana Experiences 89 Outdoor Pursuits 92 Shopping 94 Havana After Dark 98 Side Trips from Havana 102 Viñales & Western Cuba 103 by Eliot Greenspan Pinar del Río 103 Smoke ’Em If You Got ’Em 105 Viñales 107 Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve & San Diego de los Baños 112 5 Cayo Levisa 116 María la Gorda 118 Isla de la Juventud 119 Cayo Largo del Sur 123 Varadero & Matanzas Province 126 by Eliot Greenspan Matanzas 126 Varadero 129 The Zapata Peninsula & Playa Girón 142 The Bay of Pigs 144 Trinidad & Central Cuba 146 by Eliot Greenspan & Neil E Schlecht Santa Clara 146 Che Guevara 149 Cienfuegos 153 Beny Moré 157 Trinidad 160 Sancti Spíritus 172 Camagüey & the Northeastern Coast 178 by Neil E Schlecht Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo 178 A Bridge So Far 180 El Oriente Papa & the Cayos 181 A Stopover in Morón 183 Camagüey 187 199 by Neil E Schlecht Guardalavaca 199 Bayamo & the Sierra Maestra 210 Dear Granma 215 Goin’ (or Not) to Gitmo 219 Baracoa 220 v CONTENTS Santiago de Cuba 228 by Neil E Schlecht Orientation 229 Santiago, City of Struggle & Rebellion 232 Getting Around 233 Fast Facts: Santiago de Cuba 234 Where to Stay 235 Where to Dine 238 What to See & Do 240 Shopping 245 Santiago de Cuba After Dark 246 Carnival & Other Santiago Festivals 248 Side Trips from Santiago de Cuba 249 Appendix A: Cuba in Depth 253 by Neil E Schlecht History 101 253 Cuba Today 258 Cuban Culture 262 Appendix B: Useful Spanish Terms & Phrases Basic Words & Phrases 266 More Useful Phrases 267 Index 266 Some Typically Cuban Words & Phrases 268 270 List of Maps The Regions in Brief 16 Havana at a Glance 53 La Habana Vieja & Centro Habana 56 Vedado 57 Playa 59 The Viñales Valley 109 Varadero 130 Santa Clara 147 Cienfuegos 155 Trinidad 161 Sancti Spíritus 173 Cayo Coco & Cayo Guillermo 179 Camagüey 189 El Oriente 201 Bayamo 213 Baracoa 221 Santiago de Cuba 230 Acknowledgments Eliot Greenspan would like to tip his hat and extend his thanks to Myka Carroll Del Barrio He’d also like to thank Emilie Walker for her dedicated and diligent help, and her overall delightful demeanor An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more We’re sure you’ll find others Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too Please write to: Frommer’s Cuba, 2nd Edition Wiley Publishing, Inc • 111 River St • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer’s Belize Frommer’s Caribbean Frommer’s Costa Rica Frommer’s Mexico Frommer’s Portable Dominican Republic Frommer’s South America Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional) Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see) In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists Throughout the book, look for: Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money Value Great values—where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover DC Diners Club MC MasterCard V Visa Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners At Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following: • • • • Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions What’s New in Cuba I n 2004, the Bush administration stepped up pressure to curtail travel to Cuba by virtually eliminating the granting of license applications for educational and people-to-people exchange programs, and limiting the right of Cuban-Americans to visit the island However, these policies were widely perceived as an effort to garner political gain amongst the CubanAmerican population in the key electoral state of Florida PLANNING YOUR TRIP Cuban authorities have been cracking down on tourists carrying DVDs and DVD players — even confiscating laptop computers equipped with DVD players (owners can pick them up upon departure) The departure tax is now $25 and must be paid in cash at the airport upon departure At press time, the Horizontes hotel chain ceased operations There’s a consolidation process going on, and no one is sure who will remain standing It looks like everything will fall under the control of Cubanacán, Gran Caribe, and Islazul Look for name changes at former Horizontes properties Phone numbers should remain the same; as for websites, it’s too soon to tell HAVANA The lovely Hotel Raquel on Calle Amargura, at the corner of San Ignacio (& 7/860-8280; www.habaguanex com), is one of the newest additions to the Habaguanex chain, housed in a beautifully restored building with marble floors and a stained-glass atrium lobby The Novatel Coralia Miramar is now the Occidental Miramar, Avenida 5, between Calles 78 and 80, Miramar, Playa (& 7/204-3584; www.occidentalhoteles.com) Aside from the name and management company, little else has changed During my last visit, La Torre (& 7/832-5650) was closed for remodeling Rumor had it that longstanding chef Frank Pecol had left as well, and it’s unclear if, when, and in what form the hotel will reopen Taberna de la Muralla, on a corner of Plaza Vieja (& 7/866-4453), is an excellent new brewpub and restaurant The newest live music club in town is the Jazz Club Irakere, Calle A no 314, between Avenidas and 5, Miramar (& 7/206-4219) VIÑALES & WESTERN CUBA Before going out of business, Horizontes added 20 rooms apiece at the Cayo Levisa and Villa María La Gorda hotels On Cayo Largo del Sur, the Barceló Cayo Largo (& 45/24-8080; www barcelo.com) is the newest resort to open, while word has it that the Sol Meliá group is planning to build a luxurious Paradisus resort here VARADERO & MATANZAS The new luxury Gran Lido Varadero (& 45/66-7200) has gotten off to a rocky start because soon after opening, Jamaica Superclubs chain relinquished its management contract, turning the hotel over to Gaviota, a Cuban company At press time, it still has no website or any means of taking direct bookings, although travel agents are selling packages Appendix B: Useful Spanish Terms & Phrases ubans speak fast and furiously There’s a very nasal and almost garbled qualC ity to Cuban Spanish Cubans tend to drop their final consonants, particularly the “s,” and they don’t roll their “rr”s particularly strongly, converting the “rr” into an almost “l” sound in words like carro or perro Cubans seldom use the formal usted form, instead preferring to address almost everyone (except those much older, or of particular social or political stature) as tú Likewise, you’ll almost never hear the terms señor or señora as forms of address—Cubans prefer compañero and compañera Cubans are also direct They will almost always answer the phone with a curt “Diga,” which translates roughly as a mix between “Tell me,” “Say what?,” and “Speak.” Basic Words & Phrases English Good day How are you? Very well Thank you You’re welcome Goodbye Please Yes No Excuse me (to get by someone) Excuse me (to begin a question) Give me Where is ? the station a hotel a gas station a restaurant the toilet a good doctor the road to To the right To the left Straight ahead I would like to eat a room Spanish Buenos días ¿Cómo está? Muy bien Gracias De nada Adiós Por favor Sí No Perdóneme Pronunciation bweh-nohss dee-ahss koh-moh ehss-tah? mwee byehn grah-syahss day nah-dah ah-dyohss pohr fah-vor see noh pehr-doh-neh-meh Disculpe dees-kool-peh Déme ¿Dónde está ? la estación un hotel una estación de servicio un restaurante el baño un buen médico el camino a/hacia A la derecha A la izquierda Derecho Quisiera comer una habitación deh-meh dohn-deh ehss-tah lah ehss-tah-seown oon oh-tel oo-nah ehss-tah-seown deh sehr-bee-syoh oon res-toh-rahn-teh el bah-nyoh oon bwehn meh-thee-coh el cah-mee-noh ah/ah-syah ah lah deh-reh-chah ah lah ees-kyehr-dah deh-reh-choh key-syehr-ah koh-mehr oon-nah ah-bee-tah-seown MORE USEFUL PHRASES English Do you have ? How much is it? When? What? There is (Is there ?) What is there? Yesterday Today Tomorrow Good Bad Better (best) More Less No smoking Spanish ¿Tiene usted ? ¿Cuánto cuesta? ¿Cuándo? ¿Qué? (¿)Hay ( ?) Pronunciation tyeh-neh oos-ted kwahn-toh kwehss-tah? kwahn-doh? kay? eye ¿Qué hay? Ayer Hoy Mañana Bueno Malo (Lo) Mejor Más Menos Se prohibe fumar keh eye ah-yer oy mah-nyah-nah bweh-noh mah-loh (loh) meh-hor mahs meh-nohss seh pro-hee-beh foo-mahr 267 NUMBERS 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 uno (ooh-noh) dos (dohss) tres (trehss) cuatro (kwah-troh) cinco (seen-koh) seis (sayss) siete (syeh-teh) ocho (oh-choh) nueve (nweh-beh) diez (dyess) once (ohn-seh) doce (doh-seh) trece (treh-seh) catorce (kah-tor-seh) quince (keen-seh) dieciseis (dyess-ee-sayss) 17 diecisiete (dyess-ee-syeh-teh) 18 dieciocho (dyess-ee-oh-choh) 19 diecinueve (dyess-ee-nwehbeh) 20 veinte (bayn-teh) 30 treinta (trayn-tah) 40 cuarenta (kwah-ren-tah) 50 cincuenta (seen-kwen-tah) 60 sesenta (seh-sehn-tah) 70 setenta (seh-ten-tah) 80 ochenta (oh-chen-tah) 90 noventa (noh-behn-tah) 100 cien (syehn) 200 doscientos (doh-syehn-tohs) 500 quinientos (kee-nyehn-tohs) 1,000 mil (meel) D AY S O F T H E W E E K Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday lunes martes miércoles jueves viernes sábado domingo (loo-nehss) (mahr-tehss) (myehr-koh-lehs) (wheh-behss) (byehr-nehss) (sah-bah-doh) (doh-meen-goh) More Useful Phrases English Spanish Pronunciation Do you speak ¿Habla usted inglés? ah-blah oo-sted een-glehss English? Is there anyone here ¿Hay alguien aquí eye ahl-gyehn ah-key keh who speaks que hable inglés? ah-bleh een-glehss English? 268 A P P E N D I X B U S E F U L S PA N I S H T E R M S & P H R A S E S English I speak a little Spanish I don’t understand Spanish very well The meal is good What time is it? May I see your menu? The check, please What I owe you? What did you say? I want (to see) a room for two persons with (without) bathroom We are staying here only one night one week We are leaving Spanish Hablo un poco de español No (lo) entiendo muy bien el español Me gusta la comida ¿Qué hora es? ¿Puedo ver el menú (la carta)? La cuenta, por favor ¿Cuánto le debo? ¿Cómo? (colloquial expression for American “Eh?”) Quiero (ver) un cuarto or una habitación para dos personas (sin) baño Pronunciation ah-bloh oon poh-koh deh ehss-pah-nyol noh (loh) ehn-tyehn-do mwee byehn el ehss-pah-nyol meh goo-stah lah koh-mee-dah keh oh-rah ehss pweh-doh vehr el meh-noo (lah car-tah) lah kwehn-tah, pohr fah-vor kwahn-toh leh deh-boh koh-moh? kyehr-oh (vehr) oon kwar-toh, oon-nah ah-bee-tah-seown pah-rah dohss pehr-soh-nahs kohn (seen) bah-nyoh Nos quedamos aquí nohs keh-dahm-ohss ah-key solamente sohl-ah-mehn-teh una noche oon-ah noh-cheh una semana oon-ah seh-mahn-ah Partimos pahr-tee-mohss (sah-lee-mohss) (Salimos) tomorrow mañana mah-nya-nah Do you accept ? ¿Acepta usted ? ah-sehp-tah oo-sted traveler’s checks? cheques de viajero? cheh-kehs deh byah-heh-ro Some Typically Cuban Words & Phrases Babalao Afro-Cuban religious priest Bárbaro Great, fabulous Bodega Store Bohío Traditional, palm-thatched rural or indigenous dwelling CADECA Acronym for casa de cambio (currency exchange office) Camello Flatbed truck-bus hybrid Casa particular A private home with rooms for rent Chama Child Cirilo Yes or yeah Coche Horse-drawn carriage Cola Line or queue Compañero/compañera Literally, “partner,” most common form of an address, as opposed to señor or señora, which are almost never used Coppelia National ice-cream chain, almost synonymous with ice cream Divisa U.S dollar Fanoso Cheapskate Fruta bomba Papaya Fula U.S dollar (slang) S O M E T Y P I C A L LY C U B A N W O R D S & P H R A S E S 269 Guagua Bus Guajiro Farmer Guayabera Loose embroidered-and-pleated men’s shirt Hacer botella To hitchhike Jinetero/jinetera Literally, “jockey”; used to refer to anyone hustling a foreigner for money Orishá Santería deity Paladar Private home restaurant Paradero Train station Por nada You’re welcome Puro Cuban cigar ¿Qué bolá? “What’s going on?” (slang) Santero Afro-Cuban Santería religious priests Zafra Sugar-cane harvest Index A bel Santamaría Airport (Santa Clara), 147 Accommodations Baracoa, 224–225 Bayamo, 214–215 best, 8–11 Camagüey, 194–195 Cayería del Norte, 152–153 Cayo Coco, 184–185 Cayo Guillermo, 186–187 Cayo Largo, 124–125 Cayo Levisa, 117 Cayo Saetía, 210 Cienfuegos, 157–159 on the coastal road to Santiago de Cuba, 218, 219 El Cobre, 250 Gran Piedra, 250 Guardalavaca, 205–208 Havana, 63–76 Isla de la Juventud, 122 Las Terrazas, 114 María la Gorda, 119 Matanzas, 128 Morón, 183 Parque Baconao and the southeast coast, 251–252 Pinar del Río, 106 Sancti Spíritus, 175–176 San Diego de los Baños, 116 Santa Clara, 149–150 Santa Lucia, 198 Santiago de Cuba, 235–238 surfing for, 34 tips on, 41 Topes de Collantes, 171 Varadero, 135–139 Villa Santo Domingo, 216 Viñales, 110–111 Active vacations, 43–45 Acuario Baconao, 251 Acuario Nacional (Havana), 91 Aeropuerto Internacional Antonio Maceo (Santiago de Cuba), 229 Aeropuerto Internacional Frank País, 200 Aero-taxi, 40 Agencia de Reservaciones del Campismo (Bayamo), 217 Airfares, 33–36 Airlines, 34–36, 39–40 Air Tickets Direct, 36 Aldea Taína (Banes), 205 Alto de Medina, 218 Alto de Naranjo, 217 American Express, 23 Ancón, 109 Aquariums, 91, 204, 251 Archipiélago/Ecotur (Baracoa), 224 Arrechabala Rum Factory (Cárdenas), 141 Artesanía (Varadero), 134 ARTex shops Camagüey, 194, 197 Cienfuegos, 157 Havana, 94, 96 Santiago de Cuba, 246 Trinidad, 169 Varadero, 134 Art galleries, Havana, 94–95 Artistic Ceramic Museum (Havana), 84 Arts and crafts Camagüey, 193 Havana, 84, 88, 94, 96, 97 Santiago de Cuba, 245 Varadero, 134 Art works, exporting, 20–21 Asistur, 62 Asociación Cubana de Limitados Físicos-Motores, 30 Ateneo Cultural (Santiago de Cuba), 246 ATMs (automated teller machines), 24 Ayuntamiento (Santiago de Cuba), 241 B acuanayagua Bridge, 132 Bahía de Miel, 220 Bahía de Naranjo, 204 Bahía de Santiago, 244 Balcón de Velázquez (Santiago de Cuba), 243 Ballet de Camagüey, 196 Ballet Folclórico Cutatumba (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Banes, 204–205 Banks, 22 Baracoa, 6, 220–227 Bar Club Boulevard (Santa Clara), 151 Bar Dos Hermanos (Havana), 100 Bar La Marquesina (Santa Clara), 151 Barra de Ron Caney (Santiago de Cuba), 245 Barrio El Tivolí (Santiago de Cuba), 243 Baseball, 44, 92, 246 Baseball Adventures, 44 Basilica del Cobre, 249–250 Batista, Fulgencio, 204, 255 Bayamo, 210, 212–216 Bay of Pigs invasion, 142–144, 256 Bazar La Habana Sí (Havana), 94 Bazar Volveré (Havana), 94 Beaches See also specific beaches best, 7–8 Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, 182 Cayo Largo, 123–124 Cayo Levisa, 116–117 Cayo Sabinal, 197–198 Cayo Saetía, 210 Cienfuegos, 157 Guardalavaca, 203 Isla de la Juventud, 122 María la Gorda, 118 Beers, 43 Bello Bar (Santiago de Cuba), 249 Beny Moré International Festival of Popular Music (Cienfuegos), 26 Beverages, 43 Biblioteca Provincial Rubén Martínez (Sancti Spíritus), 174 INDEX Biking and mountain biking, 44 Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, 181 Guardalavaca, 202 Havana, 92 Trinidad, 162 Viñales, 109 Birán, 204 Bird-watching, 7, 44, 144, 223 Blue Diving, 182 Boat trips and tours, 36 Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, 182 Cayo Largo, 124 Cayo Levisa, 116 Lago La Redonda, 183–184 Varadero, 133 Boca de Guamá, 143, 144 Books, recommended, 46–47 Business hours, 47 Bus travel, 40 C abaret Continental (Varadero), 140 Cabaret Nacional (Havana), 98 Cabaret Nocturno (Holguín), 209 Cabaret Parisien (Havana), 98 Cabaret Tropicana Santiago, 246 Caberet El Patio (Isla de la Juventud), 123 CADECA, 22 Café Cantante Mi Habana (Havana), 99 Café Monserrate (Havana), 100–101 Café O’Reilly (Havana), 101 Café París (Havana), 101 Café Pinar (Pinar del Río), 107 Cafetal Buenavista, 113 Cafetería El Portal (Havana), 89 Caibarién, 151–152 Calendar of events, 25–27 Calle Antonio Maceo (Baracoa), 13 Callejón de Hammel (Havana), 3, 87, 89 Calle José Martí (Nueva Gerona), 121 Calle Llano (Sancti Spíritus), 174 Calle Maceo (Camagüey), 191 Calle Obispo (Havana), 88 Calle Tacón (Havana), 97 Camagüey, 2, 15, 187–198 accommodations, 194–195 getting around, 188, 190 orientation, 190 restaurants, 195–196 shopping, 193 sights and attractions, 190–193 traveling to, 188 Cañonazo (cannon blast; Havana), 91 Capilla de La Dolorosa (Bayamo), 214 Caracol stores (Havana), 94 Cárdenas, 141 Caribbean Bound, 37 Caribe Sol, 37 Carnival, 4, 26, 248 Car rentals, 38–39 Cartelera, 50, 98 Car travel, 38–39 Casa Batida (Cayo Largo), 124 Casa Blanca Mirador (Varadero), 141 Casa de Africa Museum (Havana), 265 Casa de Caridad Botanical Gardens (Viñales), 110 Casa de la Cultura (Isla de la Juventud), 123 Casa de la Cultura (Viñales), 112 Casa de la Música Egrem (Havana), 96 Casa de la Música Habana (Havana), 97 Casa de la Música (Havana), 99 Casa de la Música (Sancti Spíritus), 177 Casa de la Música (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Casa de la Música (Trinidad), 169 Casa de las Mieles (Isla de la Juventud), 123 Casa de las Tradiciones (Santiago de Cuba), 247 Casa de la Trova (Baracoa), 226 Casa de la Trova (Camagüey), 13, 190, 197 Casa de la Trova (Cienfuegos), 160 Casa de la Trova (Morón), 183 Casa de la Trova (Santiago de Cuba), 13, 247 Casa de la Trova (Trinidad), 170 Casa del Caribe (Santiago de Cuba), 247 Casa del Habano El Embajador (Cienfuegos), 157 Casa del Habano (Pinar del Río), 105 271 Casa del Habano (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Casa de los Refranes (Sancti Spíritus), 175 Casa de los Tabacos (Varadero), 135 Casa del Ron y Tabaco Cubana (Havana), 95 Casa del Tabaco (Camagüey), 193 Casa del Verguero (Viñales), 109–110 Casa Fisher (Trinidad), 170 Casa Garay Fábrica de Guayabitas del Pinar (Pinar del Río), 106 Casa Natal de Céspedes (Bayamo), 214 Casa Natal del Mayor (Camagüey), 191 Casa Natal Nicolás Guillén (Camagüey), 191 Casas de cambio, 22 Casas particulares, 3, 24, 263 See also specific destinations Casa Velázquez (Santiago de Cuba), 5, 241 Casino Campestre (Camagüey), 191 Castillo de Jagua (Cienfuegos), 156 Castillo de la Real Fuerza (Havana), 84 Castillo de San Severino (Matanzas), 128 Castillo El Morro (Santiago de Cuba), 241–242 Castro, Fidel, 6, 204, 215 books about, 46 Comandancia de la Plata, 4, 216–218 Cuartel de Moncada (Santiago de Cuba), 242 history of Cuba and, 255–258 Presidio Modelo (Isla de la Juventud), 121 Santiago de Cuba, 232 Sierra Maestra, 211, 218 Castro, Raúl, 204, 215, 242, 256 Catedral (Camagüey), 190–191 Catedral de Bayamo (Bayamo), 214 Catedral de la Concepción Inmaculada (Cárdenas), 141 Catedral de la Purísima Concepción (Cienfuegos), 154, 156 272 INDEX Catedral de Nuestra Sora de la Asunción (Santiago de Cuba), 241 Catedral de San Cristóbal (Havana), 4, 84–85, 89 Catedral de San Isidro de Holguín, 209 Cayería del Norte, 146, 147, 151–153 Cayo Blanco, 170 Cayo Coco, 178–185, 187 Cayo Jutías, 117 Cayo Largo del Sur, 123–125 Cayo Levisa, 116–117 Cayo Naranjo, aquarium at, 204 Cayo Paraíso, 117 Cayo Sabinal, 8, 197–198 Cayo Saetía, 210 Cayos Coco, C-Com, 33 Celebration of Classic Cars (Havana), 25 Cellphones, 33 Cementerio de Colón (Havana), 4–5, 89–90 Cementerio de Reina (Cienfuegos), 156 Cementerio Santa Ifigenia (Santiago de Cuba), 244 Cementerio Tomás Acea (Cienfuegos), 156 Center for Constitutional Rights, 19 Central Cuba, 15 Centro de Información de Flora y Fauna (Villa Santo Domingo), 217 Centro/Galería ACAA (Camagüey), 193 Centro Habana, 56 accommodations, 68–69 restaurants, 79 sights and attractions, 87–89 Centro Internacional de Buceo (Isla de la Juventud), 122 Centro Internacional de Deportes Aéreos (Varadero), 132 Centro Wifredo Lam (Havana), 85 Ceramics, Havana, 95 Cerro de Mayabe (Holguín), 209 Céspedes, Carlos Manuel de, 254 Children, families with, 31 Chinatown (Havana), 87–88 Chivirico, 218–219 Cienfuegos, 146, 153–160 Cienfuegos Yacht Club, 2, 157, 159 Cigars Camagüey, 193 Cienfuegos, 157 Fábrica de Tabacos (Santa Clara), 148–149 Havana, 95 Santiago de Cuba, 246 Trinidad, 163, 169 Varadero, 135 Cine Caribe (Isla de la Juventud), 123 Cine Caribe (Nueva Gerona), 121 Cine Chaplin (Havana), 102 Cine La Rampa (Havana), 102 Cine Payret (Havana), 102 Cine Praga (Pinar del Río), 107 Cine Yara (Havana), 102 Climate, 24–25 Club 300 (Santiago de Cuba), 249 Club Beny Moré (Cienfuegos), 159 Club de Golf Habana (Havana), 45, 92–93, 94 Club Habana (Havana), 93, 94 Club Imágenes (Havana), 101 Club La Pachanga (Varadero), 141 Club Mejunje (Santa Clara), 151 Coco Taxis, 58 Coffee, 43 Columbus, Christopher, 27, 85, 105, 120, 123, 141, 199–200, 209, 220, 223, 253 Comandancia de Che Guevara (Havana), 92 Comandancia de la Plata, Conjunto Folklórico de Oriente (Santiago de Cuba), 246–247 Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba, 99 Consolidators, 35–36 Consulates, 48 Convento de San Francisco (Trinidad), 164 Copacabana (Camagüey), 197 Copa Room (Havana), 98 Coppelia (Havana), 90 Council on International Educational Exchange, 38 Courier services, 49 Credit cards, 23–24 Criadero de Cocodrilos (Boca de Guamá), 143 Criadero de Cocodrilos (Isla de la Juventud), 121 Cruz de la Parra (Baracoa), 223 CTS Charters, 37 Cuartel de Moncada (Museo Histórico 26 de Julio; Santiago de Cuba), 242 Cubacar, 38, 60 Cubacel, 33 Cuba Cultural Travel, 18, 38 Cubalinda, 37 Cubana, 35, 39–40 Cubanacán, 13, 18, 55 Cubanacán Náutica, 182, 203 Cuban embassies, in Canada and U.K., 20 Cuban Interests Section, 19, 20 Cuban National Ballet (Havana), 98 CubaSi, 18 Cubatur, 55 CubaWeb, 18 Cuba Welcome, 37 Cueva del Jabalí (Cayo Coco), 187 Cueva de Los Portales, 115 Cueva del Pirata (Varadero), 141 Cueva de Punta del Este (Isla de la Juventud), 121 Cueva de Saturno (near Matanzas), 134 Cuevas de Bellamar (Matanzas), 128 Cuisine, 42–43 Culture, Cuban, 262–265 Currency and currency exchange, 22 Customs regulations, 20–22 D aiquiri, 251 Days of Cuban Culture, 27 Delfinario (Cienfuegos), 156 Delfinario (Varadero), 132 Dentists, Havana, 62 Departure tax, DHL, 62 Directorio Turístico de Cuba, 18 Disabilities, travelers with, 30 Disco Habana Club (Formerlybn), 99 Disco La Roca (Guardalavaca), 208 Discoteca Ayala (Trinidad), 170 Discoteca La Iris (Santiago de Cuba), 249 INDEX Discoteca Las Cuevas (Viñales), 12, 112 Diving See Scuba diving Doctors, Havana, 62 Dolphin shows, 91, 132, 156 Dragon’s Gate (Havana), 88 Drugstores, 48 E agle Ray and Coral Reef Scuba Diving Center (Guardalavaca), 203 Egrem (Havana), 96 El Cambio (Camagüey), 197 El Capitolio (Havana), 88 El Castillo de Santa Bárbara (Baracoa), 222 El Cobre, 228 El Cuchillo de Zanja (Havana), 88 ElderTreks, 31 Electricity, 48 El Estanco (Viđales), 110 El Galn (Varadero), 133 El Gato Tuerto (Havana), 12, 101 El Morro (Havana), 92 El Morro (Santiago de Cuba), 241–242 El Oriente, 2, 16, 199–227 El Patio ARTex (Baracoa), 227 El Pinero (Nueva Gerona), 121 El Quitirín (Havana), 96 El Quitrín (Santiago de Cuba), 246 El Rincón del Bolero (Havana), 99 El Sanctuario de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad del Cobre, 249–250 El Sótano (Santa Clara), 151 El Templete (Havana), 85 ELTExpress, 36 El Tivolí (Santiago de Cuba), 243 El Yunque, 220, 223 Embassies and consulates, 48 Emergencies, 48 EMS Cubapost, 62 Entry requirements, 18–20 Escorted tours, 36–38 Estación Central (Havana), 40, 54 Estadio Guillermo Moncada (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Estadio José Antonio Huelgas (Sancti Spíritus), 175 Estadio Latinoamericano (Havana), 92 Etiquette and customs, 48–49 Expedia, 33, 34 F ábrica de Tabaco H Upmann (Havana), 89 Fábrica de Tabaco La Corona (Havana), 89 Fábrica de Tabaco Partagas (Havana), 89 Fábrica de Tabacos Francisco Donatién (Pinar del Río), 105 Fábrica de Tabacos (Santa Clara), 148–149 Familia Cuayo Fábrica de Organos (Holguín), 209 Families with children, 31–32 Farmacia Taquechel (Havana), 88 Faro de Colón (Cayo Sabinal), 197 Fashion, Havana, 95–96 Fastmail, 32 Fénix, 58 Ferrocuba, 40 Festival de Cine Pobre (Gibara), 210 Festival del Caribe (Santiago de Cuba), 248 Festival de Rumba (Santiago de Cuba), 248 Fiat Café (Havana), 102 Fiesta de la Virgen del Cobre, 26 Fiesta del Fuego (Santiago de Cuba), 26, 248 Film festivals, 27, 210 Fincimex, 24 Fishing, 6, 44–45 Havana, 93 María la Gorda, 119 Varadero, 133 Zapata Peninsula, 144 Fondo Cubano de Bienes Culturales (Santiago de Cuba), 245 485/485 Disco, 227 Frequent-flier clubs, 36 Frommers.com, 34 Fuerte de la Punta (Baracoa), 222 Fuerte Matachín (Baracoa), 222 G alería Acacia (Havana), 94 Galería de Arte ARTex (Trinidad), 169 Galería de Arte Sol y Mar (Varadero), 134 Galería Maroya (Cienfuegos), 157 Galería Víctor Manuel (Havana), 94 273 Gaviota Tours, 203 Gay and lesbian travelers, 30–31 Gibara, 209–210 Gifts, 21 Global Exchange, 38 Go Cuba Plus, 37 Golf, 45, 92–93 Gonzalez, Elián, 141–142, 258 GoToMyPC, 32 Gran Car, 58, 60 Granma (boat), 50, 215 Granma Memorial (Havana), 85 Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra, 216 Gran Parque Natural Baconao, 251–252 Gran Piedra, 228, 250 Gran Teatro de La Habana (Havana), 98 Grupo Taca, 35 Guanacahabibes National Park, 119 Guanaroca Disco (Cienfuegos), 160 Guantánamo, 219, 220 Guantánamo province, 220 Guardalavaca, 8, 199–210 Guayaberas, 48, 95–96 Guevara, Ernesto (Che), 215, 218, 256 biographical sketch of, 149 books about, 46 Comandancia de (Havana), 92 Cueva de Los Portales, 115–116 Monumento a la Toma del Tren Blindado (Santa Clara), 148 Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara (Santa Clara), 5, 148 Guillén, Nicolás, Casa Natal (Camagüey), 191 Guillermo, Gyms, Havana, 93 H abana 1791 (Havana), 97 Habana Café (Havana), 12, 99 Habana Café (Varadero), 12, 141 Habana del Este (Havana), 56 accommodations, 74–75 restaurants, 82–83 Habanataxi, 58 Habana Vieja See La Habana Vieja Habanos Festival (Havana), 25 Hatiguanico River, 144 274 INDEX Havana, 14, 52–102 See also specific neighborhoods accommodations, 63–76 arriving in, 52, 54–55 babysitters, 60 bars, 100–102 bookstores, 60 currency exchange, 60 doctors and dentists, 62 drugstores, 62 emergencies, 62 express mail services, 62 eyeglasses, 62 hospitals, 62 Internet access, 62 layout of, 55 maps, 62–63 movie theaters, 102 neighborhoods, 55–58 nightlife, 98–102 outdoor pursuits, 92–94 parks and plazas, 86–87 performing arts, 98 photographic needs, 63 police, 63 post office, 63 restaurants, 76–83 safety, 63 shopping, 94–97 side trips from, 102 sights and attractions, 83–92 Frommer’s favorite experiences, 89 suggested itineraries, 83–84 transportation, 58, 60 visitor information, 55 walking in, 58 what’s new in, Havana Biennale, 27 Havana Club rum, 97 Havana International Ballet Festival, 27 Havanatur, 18, 55 Havanautos, 38, 60 Havanautos Taxis, 58 Health concerns, 29 Health insurance, 28 Hemingway, Ernest, 181, 250 Museo (Havana), 91 Hiking Baracoa, El Yunque, 223 La Güira National Park, 115 Pico Turquino, Salto de Soroa, 114 Sierra del Rosario, 113 Sierra Maestra, 216, 217–218 Topes de Collantes National Park, 171 Viñales, 108–109 Historical sights, best, History, 253–262 Hitchhikers, 39 Holguín, 208–209 Holidays, 25 Horizontes hotel chain, Horseback riding, 183 Guardalavaca, 204 Hospital Cira García (Havana), 62 Hospital de San Juan de Dios (Camagüey), 193 Hotel Casa Granda Terrace Bar (Santiago de Cuba), 249 Hotel Copacabana (Havana), dive shop at, 93 Hotels y Villas Marina Hemingway (Havana), 93 Hurricanes, 25 I beria, 35 Iglesia de la Caridad (Havana), 88 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad (Banes), 204 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de La Merced (Camagüey), 191–192 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Camagüey), 192 Iglesia de San José (Holguín), 209 Iglesia de San Juan Bautista (Remedios), 151 Iglesia Parroquial Mayor del Espíritu Santo (Sancti Spíritus), 175 Iglesia Santa Ana (Trinidad), 163 Immigration Office (Havana), 18 Independence, Cuban, 254 Information sources, 17–18 Infotur, 55 Insight Cuba, 38 Insurance, 27–28 International Blue Marlin Tournament (Havana), 26 International Book Fair (Havana), 25 International Festival “Boleros de Oro” (Havana), 26 International Festival “Matamoros Son” (Santiago de Cuba), 27 International Festival of “La Trova” Pepe Sánchez (Santiago de Cuba), 25 International Festival of New Latin American Film Festival (Havana), 27 International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA), 30 International Jazz Festival (Havana), 27 International “Old Man and the Sea” Billfish Tournament (Havana), 26 International Percussion Festival PERCUBA (Havana), 26 Internet access, 32–33, 49 Isla de la Juventud, 119–123 Islazul (Bayamo), 217 J ardín Botánico Orquideario Soroa, 114 Jardín Botánico Soledad (Cienfuegos), 156 Jardines del Rey, 178 See also Cayo Coco; Cayo Guillermo Jazz Café (Havana), 101 Jazz Club Irakere (Havana), 1, 101 Jineteros (hustlers), 32, 104, 262–263 Santiago de Cuba, 228 Jogging, Havana, 93 Jolly Roger (Varadero), 133 José Martí International Airport (Havana), 52, 54, 58 accommodations near, 74 Journey Latin America, 37 Jover, Joel, 193 Joyería Quinta y 16 (Havana), 96 Juan Gualberto Gómez International Airport (Varadero), 126 Juan Vitalio Acuña Airport (Cayo Largo), 123 Jungle Tour (Varadero), 133, 182 K okoyé, 247 L a Boca, 170 La Cañada del Infierno, 113 La Canchánchara (Trinidad), 170 La Casa del Habano (Havana), 95 La Casa del Tabaco, Ron y Café La Veguita (Santa Clara), 149 La Casa del Tabaco (Trinidad), 169 INDEX La Casona (Havana), 94–95 La Catedral de Bayamo (Bayamo), 214 La Catedral de San Isidro de Holguín, 209 La Cayería del Norte, 146, 147, 151–153 La Comparsita (Varadero), 2, 141 La Cueva del Indio (Viñales), 108 La Farola, 220 La Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña, 91 La Giraldilla (Havana), 84 Lago La Redonda, 183–184 Lago San Juan, 113 La Granja de las Tortugas (Cayo Largo), 124 La Gran Piedra, 250 La Guarida (Havana), 89 La Güira National Park, 115 Laguna de la Leche, 183 Laguna del Tesoro, 143 La Habana Vieja (Old Havana), 3, 55–56 accommodations, 64–68 restaurants, 76–79 sights and attractions, 84–87, 89 La Iglesia San Juan de Dios (Camagüey), 193 La Loma de Cruz (Holguín), 209 La Maison (Havana), 96 Language, 49 La Niña (Cienfuegos), 160 La Noche Camagüeyana (Camagüey), 197 La Parroquial Mayor (Trinidad), 164 La Plata Trail, 216 Las Cabañas de los Pinos, 115 Las Cuevas de Santo Tomás (Viñales), 108 Las Parrandas (Remedios), 3–4, 27, 151 Las Salinas de Brito, 144 Lasseria, Oscar Rodríguez, 193 Las Terrazas, 5–6, 113 La Taberna de Dolores (Santiago de Cuba), 249 La Terraza (Baracoa), 227 Latin America Network Information Center, 18 Laundry, 49 La Zorra y El Cuervo (Havana), 12, 101 Lennon Park (Havana), 90 Le Select (Havana), 96 Liquor laws, 49 Lluvia de Oro (Havana), 101 Lobby Bar (Camagüey), 197 Loma de San Juan (Santiago de Cuba), 244 Longina Música (Havana), 97 Los Acuáticos, 109 Los Jubilados, 247 Los Tanques Azules (near Guardalavaca), 203 M acumba Habana (Havana), 12, 99 Magazines, 50 Mail, 49 Mail2web service, 32 Malecón (Havana), 3, 88, 89, 93 The Mambo Club (Varadero), 140–141 Manaca-Iznaga, 171 Maps, 49–50 Maqueta de la Habana (Havana), 91 Maravilla Yuqueña, 226 Marazul Tours, 18, 37 María la Gorda, 15, 118–119 Marina Cayo Largo del Sur, 123 Marina Chapelín (Varadero), 133 Marina Cienfuegos, 157, 160 Marina Dársena Varadero, 133 Marina Gaviota Varadero (Varadero), 133 Marina Hemingway (Havana), 26, 54 Marina Internacional Puerto de Vita (Guardalavaca), 203 Marina Puertosol (María la Gorda), 118 Marinas, 36 Varadero, 133 Marinas Puertosol, Marina Tarará (Havana), 26, 93 Martí, José, 254 Memorial (Havana), 90 MasterCard, 23 Matanzas, 126–129 Matanzas province, 2, 15 May Day parades, 26 MEDEX Assistance, 28 MedicAlert identification tag, 29 Medical insurance, 28 Memorial Granma (Havana), 85 Memorial José Martí (Havana), 90 Mexicana, 35 Micar, 38–39, 58, 60 Miniature Havana, 91 275 Ministry of Science, Technology, and Environment, 109 Mirador de Mayabe (Holguín), 209 Miramar (Havana), 56 Missile crisis (1962), 257 Model Prison (Isla de la Juventud), 121 Mogotes, 107, 109 Monasterio de las Ursalinas (Camagüey), 192–193 Money matters, 22–24 Monumento a la Toma del Tren Blindado (Santa Clara), 148 Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara (Santa Clara), 5, 148 Morón, 183 Morro Castle (Havana), 92 Mountain and rock climbing, 6, 45, 108 Municipal Museum (Morón), 183 Mural de la Prehistoria (Viñales), 110 Museo a la Batalla de Ideas (Cárdenas), 142 Museo Casa Natal José Antonio Echeverría (Cárdenas), 141 Museo de Ambiente Colonial Cubano (Casa Velázquez; Santiago de Cuba), 5, 241 Museo de Arqueología (Trinidad), 164 Museo de Arquitectura Trinitaria (Trinidad), 164 Museo de Arte Colonial (Sancti Spíritus), 174–175 Museo de Ciencias Naturales (Pinar del Río), 106 Museo de Historia Natural (Gibara), 210 Museo de la Ciudad (Havana), 4, 85 Museo de la Lucha Clandestina (Santiago de Cuba), 243 Museo de la Lucha Contra Bandidos (Trinidad), 164–165 Museo de la Revolución (Havana), 85 Museo del Arte Colonial Cubano (Gibara), 210 Museo de las Parrandas (Remedios), 151 Museo del Carnaval (Santiago de Cuba), 244–245, 247 Museo El Chorro de Maíta (Banes), 204–205 276 INDEX Museo El Chorro de Maíta (Guardalavaca), Museo Emilio Bacardí Moreau, 242–243 Museo Ernest Hemingway (Havana), 91 Museo Farmacéutico (Matanzas), 127–128 Museo Histórico 26 de Julio (Santiago de Cuba), 242 Museo Indocubano (Banes), 204 Museo La Isabelica (near Gran Piedra), 250 Museo Matachín (Baracoa), 222 Museo Municipal de Historia (Trinidad), 164 Museo Municipal Varadero, 132 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Havana), 86 Museo Nacional del Transporte, 251 Museo Napoleónico (Havana), 90 Museo Playa Girón., 143 Museo Provincial (Cienfuegos), 156 Museo Provincial de Historia (Pinar del Río), 106 Museo Provincial General Ignacio Agramonte (Camagüey), 192 Museo Romántico (Trinidad), 5, 164 Music, Cuban, 47, 263–265 Music stores Camagüey, 194 Cienfuegos, 157 Havana, 96–97 Santiago de Cuba, 246 Varadero, 134 N ational Aquarium (Havana), 91 Native Americans, 5, 143, 204, 205, 223, 253 Newspapers and magazines, 50 Nightlife Baracoa, 226–227 best, 12–13 Camagüey, 196–197 Cayo Coco, 187 Cienfuegos, 159–160 Guardalavaca, 208 Havana, 98–102 Holguín, 209 Isla de la Juventud, 123 Matanzas, 128–129 Sancti Spíritus, 177 Varadero, 140–141 Viđales, 112 Northeastern Cuba, 15 Nuestra Sora de la Asunción (Baracoa), 223 Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Nueva Gerona), 121 Nueva Gerona, 121 Nuevo Café Virginia (Isla de la Juventud), 123 O bbara, 99 Occidental Miramar, tennis court at, 94 Office of Foreign Assets Control, 19 Old Havana See La Habana Vieja Orbitz, 33 Outdoor activities, best, 6–7 P ackage deals, 36–38 Padre Pico steps (Santiago de Cuba), 243 País, Frank, 232 Palacio Brunet (Trinidad), 164 Palacio de La Rumba (Varadero), 141 Palacio del Valle (Cienfuegos), 156 Palacio Ferrer (Cienfuegos), 154 Paladares, 3, 42 Palatino Bar (Cienfuegos), 160 Palenque de los Congos Reales (Trinidad), 170 Panataxi, 58 Panautos, 39, 60 Panorama Cabaret (Camagüey), 197 Paradiso, 38, 98 Parque Agramonte (Camagüey), 190 Parque Baconao, 251 Parque Calixto García (Holguín), 209 Parque Central (Baracoa), 223 Parque Central (Havana), 87 Parque Céspedes (Bayamo), 213 Parque Céspedes (Santiago de Cuba), 241 Parque Céspedes (Trinidad), 163 Parque Colón (Cárdenas), 141 Parque de Diversiones (Varadero), 132 Parque de la Independencia (Baracoa), 223 Parque Echeverría (Cárdenas), 141 Parque Ecológico Varahicacos (Varadero), 132 Parque Histórico Morro y Caba (Havana), 4, 92 Parque José Martí (Cienfuegos), 154 Parque Josone (Varadero), 131–132 Parque La Maestranza (Havana), 86–87 Parque Lenin (Havana), 93 Parque Lennon (Havana), 90 Parque Nacional Bahía de Naranjo, 204 Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata (Zapata Swamp National Park), 6, 15, 126, 133, 142 Parque Nacional del Desembarco del Granma, 215 Parque Nacional de Turquino, 216 Parque Nacional Topes de Collantes, Parque Natural Duaba, 223 Parque Natural El Bagá, 2, 184 Parque Vidal (Santa Clara), 148 Patio de ARTex (Santiago de Cuba), 248 Patio de la Casa 18 (Havana), 98 Patio del Decimista (Viñales), 112 Patio de los Dos Abuelos (Santiago de Cuba), 249 Perfume, Havana, 97 Pets, 50 Pharmacies, Havana, 62 Photographic needs, Havana, 63 Piano Bar Delirio Habanero (Havana), 101–102 Piano Bar Marquesina (Camagüey), 197 Pico Turquino, 7, 217 Pico Turquino Trail, 216 Pinar del Río, 103–107 Piro Guinart Fábrica de Tabacos (Trinidad), 163 Playa Ancón, 7–8, 170 Playa Bibijagua, 122 Playa Colorada, 182 Playa Daiquirí, 251 Playa del Medio, 182 Playa de Los Pinos, 197–198 Playa Duaba, 224 Playa El Paso, 182 Playa Ensenachos, 7, 152 INDEX Playa Esmeralda, accommodations, 206–207 Playa Girón, 142–145 Playa Guardalavaca, accommodations, 205–206 Playa (Havana), 56 accommodations, 72–74 restaurants, 80–82 sights and attractions, 91 Playa Larga (Cayo Coco), 182 Playa Larga (Cayo Guillermo), 182 Playa Los Flamencos, 182 Playa Maguana, 224 Playa Nava, 224 Playa Paraíso, 7, 122, 124 Playa Pesquero, accommodations, 207–208 Playa Pilar, 182, 183 Playa Prohibida, 182 Playa Rancho Luna, 157 Playa Santa María del Mar, day trip to, 93 Playas del Este (Havana), 14 accommodations, 74–75 restaurants, 82–83 Playa Sirena, 7, 124 Plaza de Armas (Havana), 86 Plaza de la Catedral (Havana), 4, 86, 89 Plaza de la Libertad (Matanzas), 127 Plaza de la Revolución (Camagüey), 191 Plaza de la Revolución (Havana), 56 accommodations, 69–72 restaurants, 79–80 Plaza de la Revolución (Santiago de Cuba), 245 Plaza de la Vigía (Matanzas), 127 Plaza del Carmen (Camagüey), 192 Plaza del Himno (Bayamo), 214 Plaza de los Artesanos (Varadero), 134 Plaza de los Trabajadores (Camagüey), 191 Plaza de San Francisco (Havana), 87 Plaza las Américas (Varadero), 134 Plaza Mayor (Trinidad), 163 Plaza Molokoff (Cárdenas), 141 Plaza San Juan de Dios (Camagüey), 5, 193 Plaza Santa Ana (Trinidad), 163 Plaza Serafín Sánchez (Sancti Spíritus), 174 Plaza Vieja (Havana), 86 Plazuela El Jigüe (Trinidad), 163 Police, 50 Presidio Modelo (Isla de la Juventud), 121 Prostitution, 263 Puente Yayabo (Sancti Spíritus), 174 Puertosol Marina, 182 Punta Francés, 122 Q uikbook.com, 34 R acism, 31 Rancho Naranjo (Guardalavaca), 204 Real Cárcel (Trinidad), 163 Regent Holidays, 37 Regions of Cuba, 14 Remedios, 151 Restaurants See also Paladares Baracoa, 225–226 Bayamo, 215–216 best, 11–12 Camagüey, 195–196 Cayo Coco, 184–185 Cayo Guillermo, 186–187 Cayo Largo, 125 Cayo Levisa, 117 Cienfuegos, 159 Guardalavaca, 208 Havana, 76–83 Isla de la Juventud, 122 Las Terrazas, 114–115 Matanzas, 128 Morón, 183 Pinar del Río, 106–107 Sancti Spíritus, 176 San Diego de los Baños, 116 Santa Clara, 150–151 Santiago de Cuba, 238–240 tips on dining, 42–43 Varadero, 139–140 Villa Santo Domingo, 217 Viñales, 111–112 Zapata Peninsula, 145 Restrooms, 51 Revolution, 255–256 Río Miel, 223 Río Toa, Rooftop Garden (Santiago de Cuba), 249 Ruinas de Segarte (Trinidad), 170 Rum, 43, 97 Rumayor (Pinar del Río), 107 277 S ábado de la Rumba (Havana), 99 Safety, 29–30 Sailing, 45 Varadero, 133 Salón Turquino (Havana), 100 Salto de Cabuní, 171 Salto de Soroa, 114 Salto Vega Grande, 171 Sánchez, Celia, 218 Sánchez, Iliana, 193 Sancti Spíritus, 146, 172–177 San Diego de los Bos, 115 San Diego de los Baños Spa, 115 San Isidoro de Holguín, 208–209 Santa Clara, 146–153 Santa Lucia, 198 Santería, 265 Santiago Café, 246 Santiago de Cuba, 2, 16–17, 228–252 accommodations, 235–238 arriving and departing, 229, 232 coastal road to, 218–220 as cradle of the Revolution, 232 currency exchange, 234 hospitals and medical assistance, 234 layout of, 233 nightlife, 246–249 police, 234 post office, 234 restaurants, 238–240 safety, 234 shopping, 245–246 side trips from, 249–252 sights and attractions, 240–245 transportation, 233–234 visitor information, 232–233 Santo Sepulcro (Camagüey), 192 Scuba Cuba Barracuda (Varadero), 134 Scuba diving, 45 Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, 182 Cayo Largo, 124 Cayo Levisa, 117 Guardalavaca, 203 Havana, 93 Isla de la Juventud, 122 María la Gorda, 6–7, 118–119 Varadero, 133–134 Zapata Peninsula, 144 Sea Lovers Scuba Diving Center (near Guardalavaca), 203 278 INDEX Seasons, 24 Seniors, 31 Sierra del Rosario Biosphere Reserve, 112–115 Sierra Maestra, 6, 210–211, 216–218 Signature Travel, 37 Silla de Gibara, 209–210 Single travelers, 32 Sitio Lagüira, 183 Smoking, 50 Snorkeling, 45, 117, 124, 133–134 Sol Caribe Tours, 37 Soroa, 113, 114 Spanish conquest and colonization, 253–254 Special-interest vacations, 38 Special Period, 257–258 Sportfishing See Fishing STA Travel, 36 Sun, exposure to the, 29 Surfing, 45 Synagogue, Camagüey, 192 T aller de Cerámica Artística (Varadero), 134 Taxes, 50 Taxi OK, 58 Teatro Amadeo Roldán (Havana), 98 Teatro Heredia (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Teatro La Caridad (Santa Clara), 148 Teatro Milanés (Pinar del Río), 106 Teatro Nacional de Cuba (Havana), 98 Teatro Oriente (Santiago de Cuba), 246 Teatro Principal (Camagüey), 196 Teatro Principal (Sancti Spíritus), 177 Teatro Sauto (Matanzas), 127 Teatro Tomás Terry (Cienfuegos), 156 Telephones, 50 Temperatures, 24–25 Tennis, Havana, 94 Terracota (Havana), 95 Thomas Cook, 24 Tico Travel, 18, 37 Tiendas Panamericanas (Havana), 94 Tifereht Israel (Camagüey), 192 Time zone, 51 Tipping, 42, 51 Tobacco tours, Viñales Valley, 109–110 Toilets, 51 Topes de Collantes National Park (Sierra del Escambray), 6, 171 Torreón de San Hilario (Cayo Sabinal), 197 Tours, package and escorted, 36–38 Train travel, 39, 40 Transcard International, 23 Transgaviota, 58 Transportation, 38–40 Transtur, 39, 58, 60 Travel Assistance International, 28 Traveler’s checks, 24 Travelex Insurance Services, 28 Travel Guard International, 28 Travel insurance, 27–28 Travel Insured International, 28 Travelocity, 33, 34 Travel Service Providers (TSPs), 18 Trinidad, 5, 15, 146, 160–171 Trip-cancellation insurance (TCI), 28 Tropicana (Havana), 12, 100 Tropicana Matanzas, 128–129, 140 Tropicat, 182 U niversidad de la Habana (Havana), 90 Unlicensed travel, 19 V alle de la Prehistoria, 251 Valle de los Ingenios, 4, 171 Varadero, 2, 7, 15, 129–142 accommodations, 135–139 nightlife, 140–141 organized tours, 134 orientation, 131 restaurants, 139–140 shopping, 134–135 side trip to Cárdenas, 141–142 sights and attractions, 131–134 transportation, 130–131 traveling to, 129–130 Varadero Ecological Park, 132 Varadero Golf Club, 45, 132 Varasub (Varadero), 133 Vedado, accommodations, 69–72 Vedado (Havana), 56 attractions, 89–90 restaurants, 79–80 Velázquez de Cuellar, Diego, 253 Vía Rent A Car, 39, 60 Víazul, 40 Víazul bus station (Havana), 54 Villa Los Laureles (Sancti Spíritus), 177 Villa Santo Domingo, 216–217 Viñales, 14, 107–112 Viñales National Park, 109 Viñales Valley, 5–6 Visa credit cards, 23 Visa traveler’s checks, 24 Visitor information, 17–18 Vocal Divas, 247 Vuelta Abajo, 14, 105 W ater, drinking, 29, 51 Watersports, Cayo Coco and Cayo Guillermo, 182 Websites, 13, 18, 33–34 Whale Shark Scuba Center (Cienfuegos), 157 White-water rafting, Río Toa, 7, 223, 224 Y ahoo! Mail, 32 Yateras, 223 Z apata Peninsula, 7, 142–145 Zapata Swamp National Park, 6, 15, 126, 133, 142 Travel Tip: He who finds the best hotel de al has more to spend on facials involving knobbly vegetables Hello, the Roaming Gnome here I’ve been nabbed from the garden and taken round the world The people who took me are so terribly clever They find the best offerings on Travelocity For very little cha-ching And that means I get to be pampered and exfoliated till I’m pink as a bunny’s doodah 1-888-TRAVELOCITY / travelocity.com / America Online Keyword: Travel ©2004 Travelocity.com LP All rights reserved TRAVELOCITY, the Stars Design and The Roaming Gnome are trademarks of Travelocity.com LP CST# 2056372-50 Travel Tip: Make sure there’s customer service for any change of plans- involving friendly natives, for example One can plan and plan, but if you don’t book with the right people you can’t seize le moment and canoodle with the poodle named Pansy I, for one, am all for fraternizing with the locals Better yet, if I need to extend my stay and my gnome nappers are willing, it can all be arranged through the 800 number at, oh look, how convenient, the lovely company coat of arms Ú 1-888-TRAVELOCITY / travelocity.com / America Online Keyword: Travel ... 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