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Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 1: The Ancient World SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST S A R A H H E R M S E N , Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Sarah Hermsen Imaging and Multimedia Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Composition Evi Seoud Editorial Lawrence W Baker Product Design Kate Scheible Manufacturing Rita Wimberley For permission to use material from this product, submit your request via the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ permissions, or you may download our Permissions Request form and submit your request by fax or mail to: Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large photo, Public Domain Volume 4, from top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly A Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Photos Volume 5, from top to bottom, Susan D Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide World Photos Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor © 2004 by U•X•L U•X•L is an imprint of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of Thomson Learning, Inc UXLđ is a registered trademark used herein under license Thomson Learning™ is a trademark used herein under license For more information, contact: The Gale Group, Inc 27500 Drake Rd Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 Or you can visit our Internet site at http://www.gale.com ALL RIGHTS RESERVED No part of this work covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means— graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, Web distribution, or information storage retrieval systems—without the written permission of the publisher Permissions Department The Gale Group, Inc 27500 Drake Rd Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 Permissions Hotline: 248-699-8006 or 800-877-4253, ext 8006 Fax: 248-699-8074 or 800-762-4058 Cover photographs reproduced by permission of: Volume 1, from top to bottom, © Christel Gerstenberg/CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Araldo de Luca/CORBIS; large photo, the Library of Congress Volume 2, from top to bottom, Public Domain, © Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS, National Archives and Records Administration; large photo, the Smithsonian Institute Volume 3, from top to bottom, © Historical While every effort has been made to ensure the reliability of the information presented in this publication, The Gale Group, Inc does not guarantee the accuracy of data contained herein The Gale Group, Inc accepts no payment for listing; and inclusion in the publication of any organization, agency, institution, publication, service, or individual does not imply endorsement by the editors or publisher Errors brought to the attention of the publisher and verified to the satisfaction of the publisher will be corrected in future editions LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA Pendergast, Sara Fashion, costume, and culture: clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages / Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast; Sarah Hermsen, editor p cm Includes bibliographical references and index ISBN 0-7876-5417-5 (set hardcover)—ISBN 0-7876-5418-3 (v.1 : alk paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5419-1 (v.2 : alk paper)—ISBN 0-7876-5420-5 (v.3 : alk paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5421-3 (v.4 : alk paper)— ISBN 0-7876-5422-1 (v.5 : alk paper) Costume—History Fashion—History Body marking—History Dress accessories—History I Title: Clothing, headwear, body decorations, and footwear through the ages II Pendergast, Tom III Hermsen, Sarah IV Title GT511.P46 2004 391’.009—dc22 2003015852 Printed in the United States of America 10 Contents ■■■ Entries by Alphabetical Order Entries by Topic Category Reader’s Guide Contributors Timeline xli liii lvii lix Words to Know ■ ■ ■ xxvii lxvii Volume 1: The Ancient World PREHISTORY Prehistoric Life Clothing Overview Headwear Overview Body Decorations Overview Footwear Overview 11 13 ANCIENT EGYPT Ancient Egypt 15 ■ v ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Unraveling the Mystery of Hieroglyphs (box) Clothing Overview Kalasiris Loincloth and Loin Skirt Penis Sheath Schenti Tunic Headwear Overview Headdresses Pschent Wigs 21 24 25 27 28 29 31 32 34 35 Body Decorations Overview Collars and Pectorals Fragrant Oils and Ointments Jewelry Kohl Footwear Overview Sandals 18 37 38 39 40 42 45 46 MESOPOTAMIA Mesopotamia Clothing Overview Fringe Shawl 49 53 55 56 Headwear Overview Turbans Veils 59 60 61 Body Decorations Overview Footwear Overview Sandals vi ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE 63 65 66 CONTENTS ■ ■ ■ ■ vii INDIA India 69 Clothing Overview Burka Chadar Choli Dhoti and Lungi Jama Punjabi Suit Purdah Modern Islamic Dress (box) Sari Uttariya Headwear Overview Turbans 76 78 79 80 82 83 84 85 87 89 91 92 Body Decorations Overview Foot Decorating Forehead Markings Henna Stains Jewelry Piercing Footwear Overview Chappals Jutti Khapusa Paduka 75 95 96 97 99 100 104 107 108 109 109 110 ANCIENT GREECE Life in Ancient Greece Clothing Overview Chlaina and Diplax Chlamys Doric Chiton Himation Ionic Chiton 113 119 122 123 124 126 127 CONTENTS ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Loin Coverings Military Dress Minoan Dress Peplos 129 131 132 134 Headwear Overview Phrygian Cap Pilos and Petasos Sakkos and Sphendone Wreaths Body Decorations Overview Cameo and Intaglio Fibulae Jewelry Makeup Metal Girdles Perfume Footwear Overview Boots Sandals 137 139 141 142 143 145 146 147 148 150 151 153 155 156 157 ANCIENT ROME Ancient Rome Sumptuary Laws Regulate Luxury (box) Clothing Overview Braccae Casula Dalmatica Etruscan Dress Feminalia Palla Stola Subligaculum Toga Tunica Headwear Overview viii ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE 159 162 165 168 169 169 170 172 174 176 177 178 180 183 CONTENTS Beards Braids and Curls Hair Coloring Wigs 185 186 187 188 Body Decorations Overview Bulla Jewelry Makeup Signet Ring Footwear Overview Calceus Cothurnus Crepida Gallicae Solea ■ ■ ■ 191 192 193 194 195 197 199 200 201 202 203 Where to Learn More Index ■ ■ ■ lxxv lxxix Volume 2: Early Cultures Across the Globe EARLY ASIAN CULTURES Early Asian Cultures Samurai (box) Clothing Overview Cheongsam Dragon Robes Hakama Haori Ho Kataginu Kimono Silk (box) Kinu Kosode Mandarin Shirt 205 208 211 216 217 219 220 221 222 223 226 228 229 230 CONTENTS ■ ix ■ ■ ■ CONTENTS Geisha (box) Obi Headwear Overview 231 232 235 Body Decorations Overview Fans Kabuki Makeup Face Painting at the Peking Opera (box) Tattooing Footwear Overview Foot Binding and Lotus Shoes Geta Tabis Zori 239 240 241 243 244 247 248 250 252 253 THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE The Byzantine Empire Clothing Overview Dalmatica Paludamentum Stola Headwear Overview Turbans 261 263 264 266 267 268 Body Decorations Overview Embroidery Footwear Overview 255 269 270 273 NOMADS AND BARBARIANS Nomads and Barbarians Vikings: The Last Barbarians (box) Clothing Overview 281 Headwear Overview x ■ FASHION, COSTUME, AND CULTURE 275 278 285 CONTENTS Body Decorations Overview Footwear Overview ■ ■ ■ 287 289 EUROPE IN THE MIDDLE AGES Europe in the Middle Ages Clothing Overview Bliaut Cote and Cotehardie Ganache and Gardcorps Hose and Breeches Houppelande Leg Bands Mantle Pourpoint Tabard Headwear Overview Beret Bowl Haircut Coif Hoods Ram’s Horn Headdress Steeple Headdress Tonsure Wimple Body Decorations Overview Gloves Purses 291 297 300 301 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 311 312 313 314 315 317 317 318 319 321 322 323 Footwear Overview Crackowes and Poulaines 325 326 DISCOVERED PEOPLES The Costume of the Discovered Peoples 329 OCEANIA Oceania: Island Culture 333 CONTENTS ■ xi ... 2: 3 71 1: 18 5 5: 869 5: 902 2: 4 21 2: 312 3: 610 5: 853 5: 958 2: 3 61 2: 300 3: 611 4: 668 3: 612 2: 344 2: 436 5: 948 5: 855 3: 473 1: 15 6 3: 546 3: 654 2: 422 2: 313 ... 5: 872 873 2: 219 5: 912 3: 498 2: 220 2: 403 2: 437 1: 32 2: 374 2: 4 31 4: 7 31 1: 99 3: 547 4: 774 4: 716 1: 12 6 5: 913 2: 2 21 4: 676 2: 315 5: ... Where to Learn More Index ■ ■ ■ 10 15 10 16 10 17 10 18 10 19 10 20 lxxv