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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP 10 $BUFESBM 0LAZADE !VENIDADE-AYO 1FSị -AYO 1JFESBT (O&DELOGR (GLILFLR 1MB[B 'UDEEOH & $/ /( ( 52 $9 BZP 0XVHRGH OD&LXGDG $9 &DVD 1BSRVF 5RVDGD $PMỉO % $ /& $ & ( &$ 0DQ]DQDGH ODV/XFHV %2/9$5 #PMJWBS & $ / / ( $ $ / , $ %DQFRGHOD 1DFLàQ $ 5 % , ' %DQFR +LSRWHFDULR 1DFLRQDO / &$// & $ / / ( 6 &(60(5 $/' 3DODFLR 9HUD 7DQJR /D&DWHGUDO ([HGLILFLR 0HWURSROLWDQD /D3UHQVD 0LQLVWHULRGH (FRQRPLD 10 $9, 1*+ ( "WEF BZP 7$ & $ $ 3LD]]ROOD $ &DIô 7RUWRQL 3( 0$'(52 &$//(3(// BUENOS AIRES 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Great tango clubs & dance halls Best restaurants in each area Unmissable museums & galleries Liveliest bars & clubs Most impressive buildings Historic plazas & green spaces Artisan shops & best boutiques Best hotels for every budget Fun activities for children Insider tips for every reader YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING TOP 10 BUENOS AIRES DECLAN MCGARVEY JONATHAN SCHULTZ EYEWITNESS TRAVEL Contents Left Tango show Center Painting at Kellys shop Right Cementerio de la Recoleta Contents Buenos Aires Top 10 Design, Editorial, and Picture Research, by Quadrum Solutions, Krishnamai, 33B, Sir Pochkanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai, India Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore Printed and bound in China by Leo Paper Products Ltd First American Edition, 2009 10 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright 2009 â Dorling Kindersley Limited, London, A Penguin Company Buenos Aires Highlights Plaza de Mayo Cementerio de la Recoleta 10 Teatro Colún 12 Avenida de Mayo 14 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 16 San Telmo 18 Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied All 10 are, in the editors opinion, of roughly equal merit Avenida de Julio 20 Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage; ie the rst oor is the oor above ground level MALBA 22 Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay 24 Tango 26 Moments in History 32 All rights reserved under International and PanAmerican Copyright Conventions No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without prior written permission of the copyright owner Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library ISSN: 1479-344X ISBN: 978 7566 3954 The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Cover: Front Alamy Images: James Brunker main; Blaine Harrington III bl Spine DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco b Back DK Images: Demetrio Carrasco tl, tc, tr Contents Left Exhibits at MALBA Center Cafộ Tortoni Right Interior of Galerớas Pacớco Striking Buildings 34 Around Town Plazas and Green Spaces 36 Barrio Norte, Recoleta Argentinian Artisan Stores & Around 64 38 San Telmo & La Boca 72 Intimate Museums 40 Festivals 42 Tango Clubs and Milongas 44 Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro 80 Palermo 86 Beyond Buenos Aires 94 Nightclubs 46 Gay Clubs and Hangouts 48 Culinary Highlights 52 Parrillas 54 Practical Information 102 Restaurants 56 Places to Stay 112 Porteủo Personalities 58 General Index 118 Activities for Children 60 Phrase Book 126 Streetsmart Left El Caminito, La Boca Right Congreso Nacional Key to abbreviations Adm admission charge BUENOS AIRES TOP 10 Plaza de Mayo 89 Cementerio de la Recoleta 1011 Teatro Colún 1213 Avenida de Mayo 1415 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 1617 San Telmo 1819 Avenida de Julio 2021 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires 2223 Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay 2425 Tango 2629 BUENOS AIRES TOP 10 Buenos Aires Highlights 67 ! $8 $ 72 9( Plaza de Mayo This square has seen post-World Cup soccer victory dances as well as the deafening silence of the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayos weekly marches (see pp89) 3, 67 ,' $ $ 35 $9 (6 (1 ,' ) ,* $ 8( ' (/ / ,% (5 52 7$' $ $/ &2 57 25 $ $9 ,' $ *( 5HFROHWD $ 3/$=$ ' 5( (1 Buenos Aires Top 10 Buenos Aires Highlights Argentinas romantic, reinvigorated soul, Buenos Aires is la Capital, where tango combos keep time in crowded milongas (dance halls), young men cry out deliriously at gargantuan soccer stadiums, and taxis swap lanes across some of the worlds widest avenues Porteủos, as the residents of this sophisticated metropolis are called, move to a rhythm all of their own, while making time to dine, dress, and even rest, extraordinarily well With spectacular museums, lovely open spaces, and rich architecture brimming with history, the city is warm as well as energetic 38 1( (