Cách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho bé

Cách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho béCách móc Búp bê hươu cao cổ dễ làm, siêu dễ thương cho bé

A Giraffe called © 2014 Laura Pavy Flick © 2014 Laura Pavy Flick the Giraffe Hooves and horns color: 30gms/85m/93yards of DK/light worsted/8ply acrylic Finished measurement: 17”/43cm Gauge: Gauge is not important for this project however; there should not be any ‘holes’ in your crochet fabric Embroidery Floss 1x skein of embroidery floss to match chin color for use around top of eyelids and to attach eyelashes (2 strands used) You will need: Hook 3.5mm or hook size yarn selection appropriate for your Yarn Main color: 100gms/283m/309yds of DK/light worsted/8ply acrylic Chin color: 30gms/85m/93yds DK/light worsted/8ply acrylic 1x skein embroidery floss in complimentary contrast ‘spot’ color for use around spots and lower eyes (3 strands used) Choose a color that is a complimentary contrast to your spot colors (i.e orange embroidery floss on brown felt) Beads 2x 3mm beads matching spot color © 2014 Laura Pavy You will need (cont.): Templates Eyes 2x 30mm/1.1” safety eyes 1x pair of false eyelashes (available in the beauty department of your drug-store) Felt I x sheet white felt Cut x 35mm/1.3” inch white felt circles for under eyes Eyelids – Cut x sheet felt for spots and eyelids in your choice of color *You can add as many or as few spots as you like Other Small scissors for cutting yarn and thread Embroidery needle Darning needle 300gms/10oz of polyfill for stuffing Spots – cut according to your preference © 2014 Laura Pavy Abbreviations Ch: Chain – yarn over, pull up a loop Dec: Decrease – insert hook into front loop of next stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through loops Alternatively, (sc2tog) insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through loops Inc: Increase – sc into same stitch Sc: Single crochet – insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through loops [] Work instructions within brackets as many times as directed () Additional information and stitch counts for each round * Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed © 2014 Laura Pavy Frequently Asked Questions Q: Why don’t you specify a brand of yarn? Q: That hook is too small for my yarn! Can I use a different hook size? A: There are several reasons Firstly because amigurumi does not need a specific brand of yarn to achieve a good result; secondly, This project has not been sponsored by a yarn company, if you would like to know specific details of the yarn and other items used for this project, see the back of the book The final reason is this: all crafters are artisans; you are creatively free to choose your favorite brand, fiber content and weight of yarn to achieve YOUR desired effect I would love to see your projects! I encourage you to share images of your finished projects on Ravelry and my Facebook page www.facebook.com/thecrochetcase www.facebook.com/MerakiCraftInc Pattern support is always available on Facebook page Just send me a message the A: Of course! If your tension is particularly tight, or you are using a heavier weight yarn, a larger hook size may be needed Use what you feel is appropriate to achieve the best results for YOU Q: My stuffing is showing through the crochet fabric! How can I prevent that from happening? A: To prevent the polyfill from showing through your work, use a slightly smaller hook than is necessary for the yarn you have selected Also, NOT overstuff your amigurumi pieces For best results, fill FIRMLY, but not so much that you overstretch the crochet fabric © 2014 Laura Pavy Instructions Important! Body This project is worked in a continuous spiral without joining at the end of each round To mark the end of each round, use a piece of contrasting colored yarn or a stitch marker If you leave your yarn marker in, moving the tail forward and back for each subsequent row, take care not to crochet through the yarn It can be easily removed when your item is complete by simply pulling it out Worked from the neck down Using your 3.5mm hook and main color, start with a magic ring, 6sc into ring (6) Inc into each st around (12) Working in blo for this row ONLY, sc into each st around (12) Note: the back loops on this row are utilized to assist sewing the head to the neck Sc into each st around (12) Repeat row (12) *inc, sc into next st’s, repeat from * twice more (15) To make filling your amigurumi easier, stuff as you go Start stuffing with polyfill when your item is a few inches in length Some manipulation of stuffing may be needed to ensure the correct shape is achieved 7-21 Sc into each st around (15) © 2014 Laura Pavy 30 [Sc into next 15 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (66) Inc into next st’s, sc into next 12 st’s (18) 31 [Sc into next 17 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (72) [Sc into next st, 3sc into the next st] times, sc into next 12 st’s (24) 32 [sc into next 19 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (78) [Sc into next st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into next 12 st’s (30) 33 [Sc into next 21 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (84) [Sc into next st’s, 3sc into next st], times, sc into last 12 st’s (36) 34-37 Sc into each st around (84) Body (cont.) 22 23 24 25 26 Now without cutting yarn, we are going to work on the belly [Sc into next st’s, 3sc into the next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (42) Belly 27 28 29 [Sc into next st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into next 12 st’s (48) [Skip next 18 st’s, st’s] times (12) [Sc into next 11 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into next 12 st’s (54) Working only into stitches made on previous round, dec x (6) fasten off, stitch hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go [Sc into next 13 st’s, 3sc into next st] times, sc into last 12 st’s (60) © 2014 Laura Pavy sc into next Legs 24-25 Sc into each st around (24) Each leg is made individually, each utilizing 18 skipped stitches from the previous section Start each leg by attaching your main color yarn with a slipstitch into the skipped stitch closest to the belly section 26 There will be small holes near the belly that will need closing with a few whip stitches Leave at least one yarn tail inches in length at the beginning of any leg to complete this step Do NOT stuff legs until all four are made Attach yarn with slst in first skipped st of previous section, sc into same st, sc into next 17 st’s (18) 27-28 Sc into each st around (27) 29 Sc into each st around (18) 20 [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times (21) [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times(30) 30-31 Sc into each st around (30) 32 [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times (33) 33-34 Sc into each st around (33) 35 2-19 [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times (27) [inc into next st, sc into next 10 st’s] times, change to hooves and horn color on the last stitch (36) 36-40.Sc into each st around (36), fasten off, leaving an 8” yarn tail for sewing 21-22 Sc into each st around (21) 23 [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times (24) After all four legs are made, its time to stuff legs firmly – this helps Flick to stand alone, then create the soles of the feet © 2014 Laura Pavy 10 Soles Tail Make Cut x pieces of hooves and horn color yarn, approximately 10cm/4” long and set aside Starting with hooves and horn color and a magic ring, 6sc into ring (6) inc into each st around (12) [inc, sc into next st] times (18) [inc, (24) sc into next st’s] times [inc, (30) sc into next st’s] times In main color, work an icord (tutorial here: http://tinyurl.com/l8qaz6j) to approximately 5cm/2”, when your tail is long enough, keep all loops on your hook Take your 3x yarn pieces, fold in half, pull yarn pieces through all loops on your hook until you have a triple stranded loop large enough to loop over the ends (tutorial here http://tinyurl.com/lf3anlf, without the braid) Use a pet brush or comb to fluff the tail [inc, (36) sc into next st’s] times Fasten off and weave in ends Using the yarn tail from one leg, sew soles to legs with whipstitch, adding a little more stuffing before the soles are closed if necessary Repeat this step on all legs Sew the tail onto the back side of the body, approximately rows above the start of the legs © 2014 Laura Pavy 11 Eyelids Head Make Now, the head is worked from the chin up, still working in a continuous spiral Stuff with polyfil as you go Cut a small hole in the center of the white felt circle (for safety eyes) With chin color, ch 13, sc into second chain from your hook and in each of the next ch, 3sc into last ch Now working on the opposite side of the chain, sc into next 10 ch, 3sc into last (26) [Sc into next 10 st’s, inc into each of the next st’s] twice (32) *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st, sc into next st] times, repeat from * once more (38) *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times, repeat from * once more (44) *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times, repeat from * once more (50) Gather together your felt semicircles, your white felt & ¼ “ circles, and embroidery threads Using strands of thread matching the chin color, whip stitch an eyelash and a felt semicircle (flat side) together, being careful to stitch BETWEEN each of the eyelashes, and over the felt Line up the white felt circle under the eyelid (with lashes) and blanket stitch through both pieces of felt (top section ONLY!) Change to your contrasting thread over the half bottom of and the blanket eyelid, stitch being careful to place your stitches as evenly as possible © 2014 Laura Pavy 12 19 Head (cont.) [dec, sc into next st’s] times times times (42) 7-9 *sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times, repeat from * once more (56) Sc into each stitch around (56), change to main color in last st of row 20-21 Sc into each st around (42) 22 [dec, sc into next st’s] (36) 10 sc in each st around (56) 23-24 Sc into each st around (36) 11 sc into next 20 st’s, dec, sc into next 26 st’s, dec, sc into last st’s (54) 25 [dec, sc into next st’s] (30) 12 sc into each st around (54) 13 *sc into next 13 st’s, dec, [sc into next st’s, dec] twice, repeat from * once more (48) 26-27 Sc into each st around (30) 28 [dec, sc into next st’s] times 14-18 Sc into each st around (48), Do not fasten off yet! Insert eyes (with eyelids) on the opposite side of the head to your color changes between rows 17 and 18 and approximately 14 st’s apart, Ensure that your eyes are secure by making a few stitches behind your blanket stitch and through the crochet fabric Stitch a bead into the outer corner of each eye © 2014 Laura Pavy 13 Horns We are going to start the horns now Do not be confused by the first row asking you to work st’s before skipping stitches for the second horn – this is done because of the way spiral amigurumi twists, and we need the horns to be side by side on top of the head rather than lopsided towards the back Move your stitch marker accordingly [dec, sc into next st] times (12) 10 [dec] times (6) fasten off, stitch hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go Second horn: Attach main color with slst to first skipped st in row of first horn, sc into same st and in each of the next 11 st’s (12) 2-5 sc into each st around (12) [inc into next st, sc into next st] times (18) 7-8 sc into each st around (18) [dec, sc into next st] times (12) 10 [dec] times (6) fasten off, stitch hole closed with whip stitch, pulling each stitch firmly as you go First horn: 2-5 7-8 sc into next st’s, skip 12 st’s, sc into last st’s (12) sc into each st around (ignoring skipped stitches – they are reserved for the second horn) change to hooves and horn color on last st of row (12) [inc into next st, sc into next st] times (18) sc into each st around (18) © 2014 Laura Pavy 14 Ears Make Still working in a continuous spiral, DO NOT fill ears starting with your main color magic ring, sc into ring (6) and inc into next st, sc into next 16 st’s, inc into last st (20) inc into next st, sc into next 18 st’s, inc into last st (22) 10 inc into next st, sc into next 20 st’s, inc into last st (24) 11 [dec, sc into next st’s] six times (18) a [inc into next st, sc into next st] times (9) sc into each st around (9) [inc into next st, sc into next st’s] times (12) inc into next st, sc into next 10 st’s, inc into last st (14) inc into next st, sc into next 12 st’s, inc into last st (16) inc into next st, sc into next 14 st’s, inc into last st (18) 12-13 sc into each st around (18), fasten off, leaving an inch yarn tail for sewing to head – DO NOT stuff Fold ear lengthways so that your row/stitch markers are the to folded edge of each ear When placing ears, markers should face to the ceiling Ears are placed so the top of the ear (where marker is closest to head) is approximately rows below the start of the horn section and slightly towards the back of the head © 2014 Laura Pavy 15 Assembly There is not much assembly left now All you need to is attach the head to the neck and add your spots! Place the neck on the opposite side of - and in line with - the eyes Use the exposed loops on the neck as a stitch guide, whip stitch around the exposed loops, catching a few stitches on the back of the head as you go Randomly place your felt spots on body, neck and legs and pin in place When you are happy with your spot placement, sew the spots onto your giraffe using blanket stitch, ensuring you catch your crochet fabric and the felt with your needle and thread at the same time For the nose, embroider two x’s over the color change line, directly below the eyes and slightly towards the center of the face Flick’s Congratulations on your new arrival! © 2014 Laura Pavy © 2014 Laura Pavy land! There are sub-species of giraffe that can be recognized by the color and pattern of their spots! Did you know? The Giraffe is the tallest living mammal that lives on