Current market conditions
Japan’s cosmetic market…
I sthe 2nd biggest woldwide
Increased by 170% on imported cosmetis since 2000
Changed Pal (Pharmaccutical Affairs Law) in April 2005
Is strict on importation and labelling guidelines
Has its market in skin-care-items (45%) clearsers
Cremé, lotion, bath, items, gels, sẻums (efective substances)
Increasingly popular: beauty machinery, skin patches, spa and masage
product, orgainic anf natural cosmetics.
Market in general
Japan’s cosmetic market is…
Highly potential – but highly competitive
Slightly higher in its retail prices than other markets (US, EU)
Different in its distribution an retail system ( than US, EU)
Different in ways to market and advertise a product or a brand
Tastes & trends of japanee
Japanese cosmetic consumers prefer…
Products of foreign manufacturers ( to local, except the bid 5)
Products with very high quality ( to lower mass market items)
Products of smaller product sizes than in US or EU (size, items)
Products from well-sounding brands ( name, image)
Products with skin-caring ingredients (japanese consumers do have well
understanding about ingredients, preservaties, etc)
Products contents that are jelly, soft, mild and smooth
Products with little smell ( less use of fragrances)
Products with bright and light packaging ( colours, weight, size)
Products with narural ingredients (to chemical ingredients based items)
Brands that steadily introduce new products
Brands with excelient customer services (store, after-sales-services, ect)
Decision makers from japanese éthetic, nail, and chain salons, import trading
companies, distributors, retailers, and manufactures ảe newly-introduced sẻvices
to be introduced to japan
JAPAN’S RETAIL MARKET IS THE 2ND BIGGEST WORDWIDE
Japan is the second-largest cosmetics market in the wworld after only the USA.
According to statistics released by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry,
the size of the japanese cosmetics market reached US $12,5 billion/Euro 9,4
billion (ex-factory) in 2006
Today, treatments nd services offered by esthetic salons are proactively introduced
into other related facilities such as medical institutions, fitness clubs, and
amusement facilities.
Meanwhile the recent booming Spa market and introduction of the market for
men’s beauty-related goods and services are making japanese beauty market
further enticing and expanding.
In 2006, the number of esthetic salons in japan counted about 18000 and still the
japanese beauty market keeps showing steady growth.
Successful introduction of your products and services to Japan additionally offers
you the chance to expand your business beyond the japanese beauty market.
According to the Cosmetic Importers Association of Japan, Japanese imports of
cosmetic products reached around JPY 165.4 billion/US $ 1.38 billion/euro 1.03
billion ( es- factory) in 2006. this is an increase of 1.1 % compared with 2005
The volume of import cosmetic products has been increasing for nine consecutive
years since 1998.
NINE YEAR MARKET INCREASE DUE TO EASE OF REGULATUONS
One major dacto the rising value of import cosmetic is th deregulation of
cosmetics imports in 2001. another factor is that more retailers than before outside
cosmetics speialty stores are carrying import cosmetic products, such as large
drugstores, convenience strores, general merchandise stores, variety shops and
selects shops.
In order to make use of various channels, over 1000 import-cosmetics copanies are
keenly looking for new products and sophisticated foreign brands.
Due to strict import regulations, the Japanese market has long been considered a
difficuld one for foreign suppliers. Starting from 2001, new rules for import
cosmetics are consistent with international standards.
Prior approval for each individual product is not required, so that products
containing ingredients already approved in Japan can be improted by just making a
filling with the local prefectural government.
Japanese cosmetics manufacturers can be classified into those that sell directly
through their shops, those that sell through wholesalers, and those that sell doorto-door.
DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM
Importers and Wholesalers
Consumers cosmetics preferences are showing a clear polarization to products that
offer clear functional benefits (e.g. lipstick that do not rub off easily, skin care
products that fights aging and provide protecion againt ultraviolet rays) on one
hand and products that are inexpensive but may not provide noticeable benefitson
the orther hand. Such clear needs or price orientation with no middle ground is
leading to changes in the traditional retail and distribution setup.
Retailers are forced to choose personal counseling and other value-added serviecs
to justify the higher prices or to shift to a self-service system for providing lower
prices.
Some importers distribute products through wholesalers, white others sell directly
to retailers (e.g. department stores, supermarkets, drugstores). Few wholesalers
also conduct business directly with overseas manufacturers, and some overseas
manufacturers sell limited-edition products only to select department stores to
target upscale customers. Cosmetics are rarely handled by the major trading
houses.
Door-todoor distribution
Overseas manufacturers selling door-to-door oprrate in much the same manner as
their Japanese counterparts. Offices across japan distribute the merchandise to
salespersons, usually women, who sell the products from their homes.
Moat overseas manufacturers start by distribuding the products throunh an
authorizes japanese agent to specialty shops and department stores. After making
some headway, the manufacturers then set up branch offices or japanese
subsidiaries.
The removal of the resale price maintenance system and increased demand coming
from younger consumers have led to the decline in consulting sales. Consumers
now exercise their own judgment in choosing the products. This has resulted in
increased cosmetics sales through mass retailers and direct mail.
***
NEW OPPORTUNITIES FOR COSMETICS MAKERS
It is reputed to be very difficult for foreign cosmetics manufacturers to access the
Japanses market.indeed, japanese companies hold 70 % of their home market, with
the leading five manufacturers (shiseido, kao, kanebo cosmetics, kose and pola),
accounting for almost 49% to tatal value sales.
However, cosmetics imports have steadily progressed during the last decade and a
detailed analysis of the Japanese market shows new opportunities for cosmetics
markets.
Nion Japan is the third largest cosmetics market after the European union and the
Unites States. Accoding to the European cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery
associatiion, the Jananese market reaches a volume of JPY 2.239 billion in 2004 at
manufacturing/ex-factory sale prices (msp). At retail sale prices (rsp), total
cosmetics and toiletries sales prices grew by 1% toi JPY 3.323 billion in 2004,
according to estimates.\cosmetics and toiletries have an important penetration rate.
Japan is ranked only behind Norway globally in terms of per capita annual sales,
with an average of Usd 241 spent er person on these products in 2004. certain
cosmetics and toiletries are considered as essential, and consumers remain willing
to spend on them even when the economic outlook is poor. Women consider som
items as a much during their daily skin care regime, and wearing at least a little
make-up when going out remains part of the culture in Japan.
The importance of cosmetics in the daily regime of Japanes women, sa well as the
growing interest of men in grooming prducts specially formulated for their needs,
may expalin that recovery following a lengthy recession, cosmetics and toiletries
sales have not been unduly affected by this weak performance.
Face and body care products form the main and the most dynamic segment. Kin
care products have been growing at an average of 5% each year since 2002. it is
also the segment where competition is at the highest levels. The make-up segment
has been relatively stable over the recent years, despite a succession of nagative
and positive years. Hair care products, the third main market segment, have been
decreasing constanly since 2000 but just recovered last year.
Foreign manufacturers may note with interest that despite their relatively small
market share (2 percent of the total) fragrances may constitute a good opportunity
for them. Contrary to other segments, the competition from domestic
manufacturers is relatively lower. “Major domestic cosmetics companies have
historically invested limited effort in fragrances, instead concentrating on other
sectors.
Japanses manufacturers usually do not have a range of fragrances in their portfolio
and the usually propose them at prices slightly cheaper than foreign fragrances.
Many japanese consumers strongly associate fragrances to the Western way of life
and therefore prfer top foreign fragrance brands. Since the size of the japanese
fragrances markets is still very small compared to the domestic market, it is costly
to create new fragrances exclusively for the japanese market. More than 95 % of
prenium fragrances sold in Japan would be non-domestic brands.
INCREASED POPULARITY OF IMPORTED PRODUCTS
Sinec the implementation of the new cosmetics law in 2005 (PAL) the
accessibility to the Japanese cosmetic market has greatly improved. Even if
incomplete, the regulatory harmonisation with cosmetic rules governing cosmetic
products in the European Union allowed to reduce red tape and to decrease
administrative costs.
As mentioned above, Cosmetics imports have steadily progressed during the last
decade. According to the US commercial service, Japan’s imprts of cosmetics
products increased by 9,4% in 2004. the share of imports compared to domestic
production, which also includes the production by local subsidies of foreign
multinationals, reached 11,3 % in 2004. according to the Cosmetic importers
Association of Japan, imports of cosmetics producys have been progressing at an
average rate of 9,5% since 2001. skin care, make-up and hair care products
account for 70% of these imports.
France and the United States are the main foreign duppliers of cosmetic products
in Japan. The two countriies contribute 60% of the tatal of imports. Other main
suppliers are Vhina, Italy, The united Kingdom and Germany
The most recent figures sjow that the tatal od imports slightly decreased during the
first semester of 2005 compard to 2004. main suppliers were affected very
differently, imports from the US and the UK have decreased by 6,5 % and 22,4%
respectively, while France and China progressed.
Despite the progress of foreign brands on the japanese market, it is important to note that
while exporting to japan, foreign cosmetic makers have to cope with the complexity of the
japanese market. Even if the regulations have been simplified, the difference between products
classified as cosmetics and those classified as quasi-drugs may turn into a headache for those
falling in the latter category. It is also very important not to underestimate the importance of
the language and cultural barriers. For instance,japanese women, as most Asiatic women ,
consider their skin to be of a very different type than European ones. This ia a very important
fact to take into consideration, from product development to communication and advertising.
SEIDO-HIN AND IPPAN-HIN
Another impediment is the complexity of distribution channels and business practices in
japan. Retail channels in japan are usually divided in two main categories: seido-hin
(selective/prestige channel) and ippan-hin(mass channel).
The first category, which includes deparrment stores, voluntary chain stores (franchised
stores) and certain high-end chain drugstores, is supplied directly from domestic
manufacturers, the subsidiaries of foreign manufactures or the importer. There are neither
wholesalers nor distributors involved and this implies trained local staff to manage sales and
logistics. As far as deparment stores are concerned , they usually only take care of providing
space to selected brands.
When they install a sales area in a deparment store, cosmetics companies incur substantial
costs. In addition to decoration and other expenses, they also have to shoulder sales staff and
advertising costs. These costs and business habits are usually considered an obstacle to the
entry of new brands in this channel.
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On the other hand, the mass channel (ippan-hin) is usually supplied from independent
wholesalers. Other retail channels include door-to-door selling , derect selling and sales to
professionals.
As far as sales results are considered, drugstores perform well and are now the most important
distribution channel in the country. Except for make-up, fragrances and skin care, they are
leading the distribution of all products in the sector. Large multi-storey drugstores selling
complementary products, such as heath and diet foods, as well as cosmetics and toiletries and
OTC medicines have been replacing small local pharmacies and the fierce competition between
the various chains leads to a strong pressure on retail prices. These japanese chained
drugstores are usually located in very convenient places such as next to railway stations and
inside large shopping malls. Alternatively , they are located in out-of-town developments with
large car parks.
Direct sales and door-to-door channels , which used to be the most popular distribution
channels for cosmetic and toiletries, continue to see a decline in value share. According to
JETRO this is to be explained by a change in social structures. “ More women are staying in
work after marriage , which is limiting recruitment of the sales personnel needed for door-todoor sales, as well as the number of consumers who are at home when such personnel call.
Consumers also prefer to shop at retail outlets such as convenience stores and drugstores,
where a wider range of products is available.”
Department stores have been strongly affected by the competition of chain drugstores, which
have extended their offer of certain skin care and make-up items and have benefited from the
increasing consumer preference for self-service, rather than counter-service. “The increasing
strength of competing channels makes it unlikely that deparment stores will increase their
share dramatically in the future . The only sector in which deparment stores will continue to
dominate will be fragrances, where there remain very few alternative channels for purchasing
premium fragrance brands, “ forecasts the CIAJ.
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MAIN MARKET TRENDS
Within the very specific japanese environment, there are several trends and opportunities to
take advantage of for cosmetics makers. Ageing is certainly the strongest charecteristic of the
japanese society today. More than 30 percent of the population is over 60 years old already ,
and the country has one of the most rapidly ageing populations in the world.
Ageing is likely to boost sales in cartain sectors such as hair dues (75% of hair colours value
sales were accounted for bu products to cover grey hair in 2003) or premium skin care
products. As in many other countries,japanese women and a growing proportion of men are
ready to pay premium prices for products that can visibly reduce the external sign of ageing. “
Developing specialised products targeting middle-aged and older consumers and branding
that alevates companies and products above the competition will likely yield successful
results , since middle-aged and older consumenrs in japan are generally loyal customers who
do not easily change from one brand to another.”
Spas, hot springs and sea therepies are also take advantage from the ageing of the japanese
population. There is a strong traditional habit of sea baths in japan and baths in volcanic hot
water springs are also appreciated for their health benefits. The japanese government recently
proposed financial incentives for the development of activities that could both address heath
needs of the population and contribute to the development of certain regional areas: hot
spring and sea therapies are included in the scheme.
In one of its latest reports, also identified as the following trends:
-continuing interest for whitening products, as a fair complexion is still perceived as an
important aspect of beauty:
-decreasing use of lighter tones for bleaching hair:
-polarisatiom of products, with the increased popularity of upper premium at one end , and
other consumers ( or the same consumers but for other products) more inclined to opt for
mass products.
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SOLUTIONS ON ENTERING JAPAN’S MARKET
Despite the high potentials of the japanese cosmetic market, carefully planned and well-chosen
strategies to enter the market are obligatory to gain sustainable sales and market shares. In
one hand , japanese cosmetic consumers are known to be quite choosy when selecting a
purchase – on the other hand consumers are always heading out for new products and brands,
and are constantly on the search for the most innovative, fashionable and new cosmetic item.
Entering japan successfully is mainly an issue of the ability and willingness of the foreign
brand and manufacturer to adjust to the japanese market requirements. Herewith it is
important to estimate own strength and abtility to perform as required by consumers in japan.
If a clear strategy is set (product range , sales channels, marketing a foreign cosmetic brand to
japan on a long –term basis.
Main questions before staring to enter japan:
Ingredients 1 . Are all products conform to the japanese legal requirements (PAL)?
Business Type 2 . Set up japan branch – or-cooperate with a japan distribution
partner?
Sales Channel 3. Which channels are most suitable for sales in japan (retail, hotels,
spas ,salons,mail order, TV-shopping,internet,door-to-door, other)?
After running checks on the import abbility of the products (concerning the Pharmaceutical
Affairs Law Japan –issued April 2005 ) to verify eligibility of imports, main issue should be to
understand the importance of selecti ng a strategy on entering the japan market. Foreign
brands usually select within one of the two main possibilities: (A) importing through an
importer / distributor or (B) establishing a Japan branch with Japanese staff. Both strategies
include pro and contra points.
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Japan Branch/ Flagship-Store
Japan Distribution partner
Pro
Pro
•
Ability to lead brand strategy in japan
lower initial business cost
•
Higher profit margins japan business
use of existing client base of JP
partner
Contra
Contra
•
Higher initial business cost
copyright protection insue
•
Longer market development period
JP partner’s in-house competing
brands
After selecting the most suitable strategy for the foreign manufacturer, a sales-channel and
sales-performance-goal plan for the first 3 years time of japan distributio should be developed
and discussed intern/ with the japan partner . Here again, strongand less strong points of the
brand and its products concerning the ‘Japanese consumer taste’ should be fundamental
within the strategically thinking and project planing.
After the initial period, the manufacturer will register its products through its japan
branch/with its Japan partner and start sales through eligible venues in the Japan market.
Also , media and advertisement agencies will be contacted through the manufacturers japan
branch/ the Japan partner to start effective campaigns- increasing annual sales in Japan and
developing steadily a well –known brand name image among Japanese consumers.
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REPORT REFERENCES & EDITORS
JETRO Japan External Trade Organization
TTC Tokyo Trade Center
MHLW Ministry oj Health,Labor and Welfare
METI Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry
CIAJ Cosmetic Importers Association Japan
JCIA Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
JSCA Japan Cosmetic Supplier Association
JPMA Japan Pharmaceutical manufacturers Association
JPWA Japan Pharmaceutical Wholesalers Association
G&S INT.LTD.
Mr. Takahashi
6-4-13 Soshigaya
G&S International Japan Representation
Tokyo Setagaya-ku
Phone +81-80-551-1260
157-0072 Japan
Email contact@gs-int-ltd.com
Web www.gs-int-ltd.com
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... JAPAN’S MARKET Despite the high potentials of the japanese cosmetic market, carefully planned and well-chosen strategies to enter the market are obligatory to gain sustainable sales and market. .. last decade and a detailed analysis of the Japanese market shows new opportunities for cosmetics markets Nion Japan is the third largest cosmetics market after the European union and the Unites States... size of the japanese fragrances markets is still very small compared to the domestic market, it is costly to create new fragrances exclusively for the japanese market More than 95 % of prenium