Style # 502987 Sample #1 AZZARO Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Description: Piped fitted short vest Season: Spring 2011 Block: Bodice slopers Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS NOTES Seams 3/8” allowance for pressed open sides, shoulders, darts, and center √ backs. ¼” all piping seam allowance. Labels TBD TBD Lining 1” pleat at neckline to nothing at hem. Fully lined to edges no facings √ Darts Pressed open to within 2-3” of apex. √ Piping 3/16” wide in armholes seamed at side seam, in neckline center front √ and hem seamed at side seam, and as welts for pockets. Pocket Functional pockets machine tacked closed with 1” opening at each √ end Button & Buttonhole 24ligne four hole DTM plastic sewn on left front with horizontal √ buttonholes on left front. Fuse To reinforce pockets only. No fuse anywhere else in garment. Remove fuse from center fronts. Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 1 of 4
Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS Seams Labels 3/8” allowance for pressed open sides, shoulders, darts, and center backs. ¼” all piping seam allowance. TBD Lining 1” pleat at neckline to nothing at hem. Fully lined to edges no facings √ Darts Pressed open to within 2-3” of apex. √ Piping 3/16” wide in armholes seamed at side seam, in neckline center front and hem seamed at side seam, and as welts for pockets. Functional pockets machine tacked closed with 1” opening at each end 24ligne four hole DTM plastic sewn on left front with horizontal buttonholes on left front. To reinforce pockets only. No fuse anywhere else in garment. √ Pocket Button & Buttonhole Fuse Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM NOTES √ TBD √ √ Remove fuse from center fronts. Page 1 of 4 Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM POM Description AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. st Initial Spec Size S 1 Sample meas Diff from spec +/- Change to New Specs Increase 21 1 Front HPS to longest point parallel 20 √ 2 Length center back 17 √ 17 3 Shoulder seam drop to front 0 √ 0 4 Neck width 8 7.5 5 Back neck drop 1.5 √ 1.5 6 Front neck drop HPS to ctr ft parallel 11 √ 11 7 Back neck total 10.5 √ Increase 11 8 Front neck total (1/2) 13.25 √ Increase 13.5 9 Cross shoulder 14 √ 14 10 Cross front 5” down from HPS 12 √ 12 11 Cross back 5” down from HPS 13 √ 13 12 Front armhole total follow curve 8.5 √ Increase 9.25 13 Back armhole total follow curve 9.5 √ Decease 9.25 14 Chest total 1” below armhole 38 37 -1 Bk to spec 38 15 Waist total 15” below HPS 30 29 -1 Bk to spec 30 16 Sweep total straight across 34 33 -1 Bk to spec 34 17 Front and back darts apex to apex 8 √ 8 18 Front and back darts at hem to hem 8 √ 8 19 Front and back darts HPS to top 10.5 √ 10.5 20 Pockets opening width 5 4.5 -.5 As sample 4.5 21 Pocket bag depth 3 3.5 +.5 As sample 3.5 22 Pockets from front piping seam 2.625 √ 2.625 23 Pockets HPS to top at darts 16 √ 16 24 HPS to top button hole parallel 12 √ 12 25 Total buttons 5 √ 5 26 Button hole spacing 2 √ 2 27 Overlap including piping 1.875 √ 1.875 28 Front hem spacing point to point 3 √ 3 -.5 8 Bk to spec ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE WITH BUTTONS CLOSED HPS IS NATURAL FOLD OF GARMENT PARALLEL MEANS VERTICAL TO THE CTR FT OR CTR BK MEASURED TO AN IMAGINARY HORIZONTAL LINE Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 2 of 4 Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. 1) Vest is hiking forward, too close to back and far away from front, so lift back and follow pattern corrections as diagramed below. 1) Lengthen front 1”. Bring neck width and circumference back to spec. Adjust armhole balance. Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM Page 3 of 4 Style # 502987 Sample #1 AZZARO Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM POM Description Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. Tol +/- 0 2 4 6 Size 8 10 12 1 Front HPS to longest point parallel .25 20 20.5 20.5 20.75 21 21.25 21.5 2 Length center back .25 16 16.25 16.5 16.74 17 17.25 17.5 3 Shoulder seam drop to front 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 Neck width .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5 5 Back neck drop .125 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 6 Front neck drop HPS to ctr ft parallel .25 10.5 10.625 10.75 10.875 11 11.125 11.25 7 Back neck total .25 10 10.25 10.5 10.75 11 11.25 11.5 8 Front neck total (1/2) to front edge .25 13 13.125 13.25 13.375 13.5 13.625 13.75 9 Cross shoulder .25 13 13.25 13.5 13.75 14 14.375 14.75 10 Cross front 5” down from HPS .25 11 11.25 11.5 11.75 12 12.375 12.75 11 Cross back 5” down from HPS .25 12 12.25 12.5 12.75 13 13.375 13.75 12 Front armhole total follow curve .125 7.75 8.125 8.5 8.875 9.25 9.75 10.25 13 Back armhole total follow curve .125 7.75 8.125 8.5 8.875 9.25 9.75 10.25 14 Chest total 1” below armhole .5 34 35 36 37 38 39.5 41 15 Waist total 15” below HPS .5 26 27 28 29 30 31.5 33 16 Sweep total straight across .5 30 31 32 33 34 35.5 37 17 Front and back darts apex to apex .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5 18 Front and back darts at hem to hem .125 7 7.25 7.5 7.75 8 8.25 8.5 19 Front and back darts HPS to top .125 10 10.125 10.25 10.375 10.5 10.625 10.75 20 Pockets opening width .25 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 21 Pocket bag depth .25 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 22 Pockets from front piping seam .125 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 2.625 23 Pockets HPS to top at darts .125 15 15.25 15.5 15.75 16 16.25 16.5 24 HPS to top button hole parallel .125 11.5 11.625 11.75 11.875 12 12.125 12.25 25 Total buttons 0 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 26 Button hole spacing 0 TBD TBD TBD TBD 2 TBD TBD 27 Overlap including piping 0 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 1.875 28 Front hem spacing point to point .125 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE WITH BUTTONS CLOSED HPS IS NATURAL FOLD OF GARMENT Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM 4 Page 4 of Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: Proceed with production. Approved with corrections. PARALLEL MEANS VERTICAL TO THE CTR FT OR CTR BK MEASURED TO AN IMAGINARY HORIZONTAL LINE Last printed 11/18/2010 12:17 PM 5 Page 5 of ...Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM POM Description AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval:... PM Page of Style # 502987 Sample #1 Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM AZZARO Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval:... of Style # 502987 Sample #1 AZZARO Technical Designer: Erik Olsen Season: Spring 2011 Created on 10/22/2010 4:03 PM POM Description Description: Piped fitted short vest Block: Bodice slopers Approval: