32mm 240 x 159 x 24 Pantone 648 C & 722 C Intelligent textiles and clothing O O D H E A D P U B L I S H I N G I N T E X T I L E S W O O D H E A D P U B L I S H I N G I N T E X T I L E S W O O D H E A D P U B L I S H I N G I N T E X T I L E S W O O D H E A D P U B L I S H I N G I N T E X T I L E S W T he use of intelligent textiles in clothing is an exciting new field with wide-ranging applications. Intelligent textiles and clothing summarises some of main types of intelligent textiles and their uses. Part I of the book reviews phase change materials (PCMs), their role in thermal regulation and ways they can be integrated into outdoor and other types of clothing. The second part discusses shape memory materials (SMMs) and their applications in medical textiles, clothing and composite materials. Part III deals with chromic (colour change) and conductive materials and their use as sensors within clothing. The final part looks at current and potential applications, including work wear and medical applications. With its distinguished editor and international team of contributors, Intelligent textiles and clothing will be an essential guide for textile manufacturers in such areas as specialist clothing (for example protective, sports and outdoor clothing) as well as medical textiles. Dr Heikki Mattila is Professor of Textile and Clothing Technology at Tampere University of Technology, Finland. Edited by H. Mattila Mattila Intelligent textiles and clothing Woodhead Publishing Ltd Abington Hall Abington Cambridge CB1 6AH England www.woodheadpublishing.com CRC Press LLC 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW Suite 300, Boca Raton FL 33487 USA CRC order number WP9099 Woodhead Publishing CRC Press Related titles: Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing (ISBN-13: 978-1-85573-546-0; ISBN-10: 1-85573-546-6) This important book provides a guide to the fundamentals and latest developments in smart technology for textiles and clothing. The contributors represent a distinguished international panel of experts and the book covers many aspects of cutting edge research and development. Smart fibres, fabrics and clothing starts with a review of the background to smart technology and goes on to cover a wide range of the material science and fibre science aspects of the technology. It will be essential reading for academics in textile and materials science departments, researchers, designers and engineers in the textiles and clothing product design field. Product managers and senior executives within textile and clothing manufacturing will also find the latest insights into technological developments in the field valuable and fascinating. Wearable electronics and photonics (ISBN-13: 978-1-85573-605-4; ISBN-10: 1-85573-605-5) Building electronics into clothing is a major new concept which opens up a whole array of multi-functional, wearable electro-textiles for sensing/monitoring body functions, delivering communication facilities, data transfer, individual environment control, and many other applications. Fashion articles will carry keypads for mobile phones and connections for personal music systems; specialist clothing will be able to monitor the vital life signs of new-born babies, to record the performance of an athlete’s muscles, or to call a rescue team to victims of accidents in adverse weather conditions. A team of distinguished international experts considers the technical materials and processes that will facilitate all these new applications. Details of these books and a complete list of Woodhead titles can be obtained by: ∑ visiting our website at www.woodheadpublishing.com ∑ contacting Customer Services (e-mail: sales@woodhead-publishing.com; fax: +44 (0) 1223 893694; tel.: +44 (0) 1223 891358 ext.30; address: Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Abington, Cambridge CB1 6AH, England) ii Intelligent textiles and clothing Edited by H. R. Mattila CRC Press Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC W OODHEAD PUBLISHING LIMITED Cambridge, England iii Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Abington Cambridge CB1 6AH, England www.woodheadpublishing.com Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton FL 33487, USA First published 2006, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © 2006, Woodhead Publishing Limited The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. 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Project managed by Macfarlane Production Services, Dunstable, Bedfordshire (macfarl@aol.com) Typeset by Replika Press Pvt Ltd, India Printed by T J International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, England iv Contents Contributor contact details xiii 1 Intelligent textiles and clothing – a part of our intelligent ambience 1 H MATTILA, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 1.1 Introduction 1 1.2 Intelligent systems 1 1.3 Applications 2 2 Methods and models for intelligent garment design 5 M UOTILA, H MATTILA and O HÄNNINEN, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 2.1 Introduction 5 2.2 Background context 6 2.3 The underpinnings of interdisciplinarity 9 2.4 Scientific practices and research strategies for intelligent garments 12 2.5 Conclusions 15 2.6 References 16 P ART I Phase change materials 19 3 Introduction to phase change materials 21 M MÄKINEN, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 3.1 Introduction 21 3.2 Heat balance and thermo-physiological comfort 22 3.3 Phase change technology 22 3.4 PCMs in textiles 23 3.5 Future prospects of PCM in textiles and clothing 30 3.6 References 32 v 4 Intelligent textiles with PCMs 34 W. BENDKOWSKA, Instytut Wlokiennictwa Textile Research Institute, Poland 4.1 Introduction 34 4.2 Basic information on phase change materials 34 4.3 Phase change properties of linear alkyl hydrocarbons 36 4.4 Textiles containing PCM 39 4.5 Measurement of thermoregulating properties of fabrics with microPCMs 55 4.6 Summary 60 4.7 Acknowledgements 60 4.8 References 60 5 The use of phase change materials in outdoor clothing 63 E A MCCULLOUGH and H SHIM, Kansas State University, USA 5.1 Introduction 63 5.2 Methodology 67 5.3 Results 72 5.4 Conclusions 80 5.5 Implications and recommendations 81 5.6 References 81 P ART II Shape memory materials 83 6 Introduction to shape memory materials 85 M HONKALA Tampere University of Technology, Finland 6.1 Overview 85 6.2 Shape memory alloys 86 6.3 Shape memory ceramics 94 6.4 Magnetic shape memory materials 94 6.5 Shape memory polymers and gels 95 6.6 Future prospects of shape memory materials 100 6.7 References 101 7Temperature sensitive shape memory polymers for smart textile applications 104 J HU and S MONDAL, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 7.1 Introduction 104 7.2 A concept of smart materials 105 7.3 Shape memory polymer and smart materials 106 Contentsvi 7.4 Some examples of shape memory polymer for textile applications 110 7.5 Potential use of shape memory polymer in smart textiles 115 7.6 General field of application 118 7.7 Challenges and opportunities 120 7.8 Acknowledgement 121 7.9 References 121 8 Development of shape memory alloy fabrics for composite structures 124 F BOUSSU, GEMTEX, France and J-L PETITNIOT, ONERA, France 8.1 Introduction 124 8.2 Definition and description of shape memory alloys 125 8.3 Interesting properties of shape memory alloys 126 8.4 Different kinds of alloys 132 8.5 Different kinds of applications of shape memory alloys 134 8.6 Conclusion 138 8.7 Future trends 140 8.8 Internet links 140 8.9 References 141 9 Study of shape memory polymer films for breathable textiles 143 J HU and S MONDAL, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 9.1 Introduction 143 9.2 Breathability and clothing comfort 144 9.3 Breathable fabrics 145 9.4 Water vapor permeability (WVP) through shape memory polyurethane 152 9.5 Future trends 162 9.6 Acknowledgement 163 9.7 References 163 10 Engineering textile and clothing aesthetics using shape changing materials 165 G K STYLIOS, Heriot-Watt University, UK 10.1 Introduction 165 10.2 Innovative design concepts in textiles and clothing 165 10.3 The principles of shape changing materials and their end-uses 166 10.4 Technical requirements for shape changing textiles and clothing 169 Contents vii 10.5 Engineering textile and clothing aesthetics with shape memory materials 172 10.6 Aesthetic interactive applications of shape changing smart textiles 182 10.7 The concept of mood changing textiles for SMART ambience 184 10.8 Summary 186 10.9 Acknowledgement 187 10.10 References 187 Part III Chromic and conductive materials 191 11 Introduction to chromic materials 193 P. TALVENMAA, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 11.1 Introduction 193 11.2 Photochromic materials 194 11.3 Thermochromic materials 196 11.4 Colour-changing inks 200 11.5 Electrochromic materials 201 11.6 Conclusion 203 11.7 References 204 12 Solar textiles: production and distribution of electricity coming from solar radiation. Applications 206 R R MATHER and J I B WILSON, Heriot-Watt University, UK 12.1 Introduction 206 12.2 Background 206 12.3 Solar cells 207 12.4 Textiles as substrates 209 12.5 Technological specifications 210 12.6 Challenges to be met 211 12.7 Suitable textile constructions 211 12.8 Conductive layers for PVs 213 12.9 Future trends 214 12.10 Sources of further information 215 12.11 References 216 13 Introduction to conductive materials 217 A HARLIN, Technical Research Centre of Finland, and M FERENETS, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 13.1 Electric conductivity 217 13.2 Metal conductors 220 Contentsviii 13.3 Ionic conductors 222 13.4 Inherently conducting polymers 223 13.5 Application technologies for conducting fibre materials 231 13.6 Future trends in conductive materials 236 13.7 References 237 14 Formation of electrical circuits in textile structures 239 T K GHOSH, A DHAWAN and J F MUTH, North Carolina State University, USA 14.1 Introduction 239 14.2 Development of textile-based circuits 240 14.3 Fabrication processes 240 14.4 Materials used 246 14.5 Characterization 266 14.6 Applications 272 14.7 Potential for the future 276 14.8 Bibliography 277 15 Stability enhancement of polypyrrole coated textiles 283 M Y S LEUNG, J TSANG, X M TAO, C W M YUEN and Y LI, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong 15.1 Introduction 283 15.2 Conductivity changes of polypyrrole films on textiles 286 15.3 Stabilisation of the Ppy 290 15.4 Experimental results of stability enhancement 292 15.5 Conclusion 303 15.6 Acknowledgement 304 15.7 References 304 16 Electrical, morphological and electromechanical properties of conductive polymer fibres (yarns) 308 B KIM and V KONCAR, ENSAIT-GEMTEX Laboratory, France and C DUFOUR, Institute IEMN, France 16.1 Introduction 308 16.2 Preparation of conductive fibres – overview 309 16.3 Experimental 311 16.4 Results and discussion 312 16.5 Applications: prototype 320 16.6 Conclusion 320 16.7 Acknowledgements 321 16.8 References 322 Contents ix 17 Multipurpose textile-based sensors 324 C COCHRANE, B KIM and V KONCAR, ENSAIT-GEMTEX Laboratory, France and C D UFOUR, Institute IEMN, France 17.1 Introduction 324 17.2 Conductive polymer textile sensors 326 17.3 Conductive polymer composites (CPCs) textile sensors 331 17.4 Perspective 339 17.5 References 339 18 Textile micro system technology 342 U MÖHRING, A NEUDECK and W SCHEIBNER, TITV Greiz, Textile Research Institut Thuringia-Vogtland, Germany 18.1 Textile micro system technology 342 18.2 Textiles are inherent microstructures 343 18.3 Goal of the application of compliant textile structures 346 18.4 First attempt: textile electronic circuit technology based on copper wires in a lattice structure with interconnections and interruptions 347 18.5 Galvanic modification of yarns 348 18.6 Light effects based on textiles with electrically conductive microstructures 350 18.7 Textile-based compliant mechanisms in microengineering and biomechatronics 351 18.8 References & Sources of further information 354 Part IV Applications 357 19 WareCare – Usability of intelligent materials in workwear 359 H MATTILA, P TALVENMAA and M MÄKINEN, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 19.1 Introduction 359 19.2 Objectives 359 19.3 Methodology 360 19.4 Textile materials 361 19.5 Electronics 362 19.6 Usability testing 364 19.7 Conclusions 367 19.8 Bibliography 368 Contentsx [...].. .Intelligent textiles and clothing i Contents 20 Intelligent textiles for medical and monitoring applications xi 369 J-SOLAZ, J-M BELDA-LOIS, A-C GARCIA, R BARBERÀ, T-V DORÁ J-A GÓMEZ, C SOLER and J M PRAT, A Instituto de Biomecanica de Valencia, Spain 20.1 20.2 20.3 20.4 20.5 20.6 20.7 Introduction Importance of intelligent textiles for healthcare Potential applications of intelligent textiles. .. theoretical bases of the research on clothing and dress and ascertain their applicability to the study of ubiquitous computing and the services, activities and social situations to be found in intelligent environments 2.2.1 Intelligent garments in the light of clothing theories An examination of the research on clothing and fashion reveals that in many respects the concept of an intelligent garment has yet... Juurikka M and Uotila M (2005), Hard Workers – Intelligent Clothing Concept for Heavy-industry Workers, multimedia presentation produced for evaluating usability of intelligent clothing Concepts, University of Lapland, Faculty of Art and Design, Department of Textile and Clothing Design, MeMoGa and CoDes Research Projects Limited presentation is available from the web site http://www.ulapland.fi/?deptid=17234... research and knowhow involved, and few if any references can be found in the literature to the conceptual points of departure used in the research on clothing and dress and in fashion design For example, there has been no research done in the area of clothing theory Methods and models for intelligent garment design 7 to clarify how an intelligent garment acquires meanings in social interaction and communication,... conferences and commercial events are organized around this theme One of them was Ambience 05, a scientific conference organized at Tampere, Finland in September 2005 More than 200 participants from 24 different countries 1 Community research & development information service (www.cordis.lu) Intelligent textiles and clothing 3 participated and 42 papers focusing on intelligent textiles, smart garments, intelligent. .. comfort, protection, and ease of donning and doffing it offers A garment’s aesthetic properties (A) embrace the design principles and artistic elements involved, such as line, pattern, colour and texture Expressiveness (E) in turn is associated with the communicative and symbolic characteristics of the garment or outfit 8 2.2.2 Intelligent textiles and clothing Research and design procedure The MeMoGa project... Intelligent Polymer Research Institute University of Wollongong Wollongong New South Wales Australia, 2522 E-mail: gordon_wallace@uow.edu.au; Chapter 25 Dr Stan S Swallow* and Dr A P Thompson Intelligent Textiles Limited ITL Studio, Brunel Science Park Runnymede Campus, Coopers Hill Lane Egham Surrey, TW20 0JZ UK Tel: +44 (0)1784 433 262 E-mail: stan@intelligenttextiles.com 1 Intelligent textiles and. .. stimulus dependent on and modulated by the central state defined as the total reactive condition, and this state fluctuates 5 6 Intelligent textiles and clothing (Vincent, 1993) Stimuli are collected from the outside world and from within the body They affect information processing in the brain as well as our behaviour In cold climates, foresight is evidenced by, among other things, clothing, the construction... people and technology to interaction between people and the environment Interestingly, an examination of the theoretical approaches of the research on clothing and dress reveals precisely such a transition: whereas in 1930 J.C Flugel defined the needs for clothing and dress in terms of people’s desire for protection, modesty and self-decoration (Flugel, 1930), in the 1980s Alison Lurie described clothing. .. users and is acceptable and accessible to as many users as possible The researchers in the MeMoGa project focused on the garment needs of workers in heavy industry and supported the concept design of an intelligent garment for them by drawing on Lamb and Kallal’s Consumer Needs Model In Lamb and Kallal’s, view functionality (F) encompasses the fit of a garment and the mobility, comfort, protection, and . use of intelligent textiles in clothing is an exciting new field with wide-ranging applications. Intelligent textiles and clothing summarises some of main types of intelligent textiles and their. 368 Contentsx i Intelligent textiles and clothing 20 Intelligent textiles for medical and monitoring applications 369 J-SOLAZ, J-M BELDA-LOIS, A-C GARCIA, R BARBERÀ, T-V DORÁ J-A GÓMEZ, C SOLER and J M. Cornwall, England iv Contents Contributor contact details xiii 1 Intelligent textiles and clothing – a part of our intelligent ambience 1 H MATTILA, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 1.1 Introduction