Thread And Seam Construction

THREAD & SEAM CONSTRUCTION BY MACKENZIE WALTON MARCH 2012 • Thread sizing conventions • Common types of sewing thread THREAD BASICS Thread size is determined the same way that yarn size is determined for textiles. While there are different systems, they are all based on weight and length specifications, and not by diameter as might be assumed. • METRIC TICKET (Nm) # of 1,000 metre lengths in 1,000 grams • COTTON COUNT (Ne) # of 840 yard hanks in 1 pound • TEX grams per 10,000 metres • DENIER grams per 9,000 metres Thread Size Thread Size Thread Size GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR THREAD SIZE SELECTION SEWING THREAD SIZES BY TEX FABRIC WEIGHT (GSM) FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/yd2) GARMENT EXAMPLES 18, 24 65 - 140 2 - 4 T-shirts, Lingerie 24, 27, 30 140 - 200 4 - 6 Shirts, Dresses 30, 40 200 - 275 6 - 8 Light-Weight Bottoms 40, 60 275 - 400 8 - 12 Light-Weight Denim 60, 80, 105 400 - 500 12 - 15 Heavy-Weight Denim COTTON THREAD Generally provides good sewing performance but strength and abrasion resistance is inferior to synthetic threads of equal thickness • Mostly used for piece-dye items • Shrinkage may cause puckering after wash/dye • Can be mercerized – reduces shrinkage, increases strength and luster, improves dye up-take Common thread types COTTON THREAD MERCERIZATION Common thread types SPUN POLYESTER THREAD Made with staple polyester fibers. Provides good sewing performance, good dimensional stability and good stitch locking properties due to the fibrous surface. • Resistant to sunlight and chemicals • Stronger than cotton, including 4X better abrasion resistance • Ideal for light to medium weight fabrics Common thread types CORESPUN POLYESTER THREAD Made by spinning staple polyester or cotton fibers around a continuous filament polyester core. Provides enhanced strength and elongation while maintaining stitch locking ability and can be run at higher speeds without breakages. • Higher machine speeds mean an increase in productivity by up to 21% • Best thread for heavy fabrics, like denim and outerwear • More consistent sewing quality due to better loop formation and resistance to damage • Most expensive general purpose sewing thread Common thread types TEXTURED FILAMENT THREAD Continuous filaments of polyester or nylon are entangled by various methods to create softness and bulk. Ideal for overlocking and the looper of coverseams, these threads provide excellent coverage for raw edges • Most economical thread • Softness makes it ideal for lopping threads that sit close to the skin • Excellent elasticity for stretch fabric applications • Often found in intimates, baby clothes, and athletic wear Common thread types [...]... posed Seam (basic sim seam s ple ) • Lapped Seam s • Lapped felled seam s • Flat Seam s • Bound seam s • Edge finishing Seam Types SUPERIMPOSED SEAMS STANDARD SEAM FRENCH SEAM Seam Types LAPPED SEAMS LAPPED SEAM FELLED SEAM Seam Types FLAT SEAMS Seam Types BOUND SEAMS Seam Types EDGE FINISHING Stitch Types 301 - LOCKSTITCH • Basic 1-needle straight stitch • Uses least am ount of thread • Tightest and. .. rse la Needle -Thread Pairing The fabric and end use will determine the thread size and type, and needle type that you will use The chosen thread will determine the needle size There will be a range of possible thread sizes and types that can be used with any given fabric, depending on the application SEAM CONSTRUCTION • Seam Types • Stitch Types • Applications • What makes a good seam Seam Types •...Common thread types OTHER THREAD TYPES • Mono-filam ‘Invisible’ Thread ent • Em broidery Thread • Elastic Thread • Specialty – Lurex, Indigo • Locked Filam Thread ent • Glow in the Dark Common thread types LUBRICATION Regardless of construction, all threads are finished with a lubricating coating This facilitates the passage of the thread through the m achine and needles, reducing friction and heat... Less thread passes through the fabric than on a lockstitch, which can reduce seam pucker • Increased seam bulk • Increased cost Stitch Types 503 – 2 -THREAD OVEREDGE SERGE • Formed using 1 needle and 1 looper thread • No structural strength – only suitable for coverage of inner seam allowances 504 – 3 -THREAD OVEREDGE SERGE (OVERLOCK) • Formed using 1 needle thread, 1 looper thread, and 1 cover thread. .. overlocking, and often used for sewing seams on knit fabric Stitch Types 512 and 514 – MOCK SAFETY STITCH • Formed using 2 needle threads, 1 looper, and 1 cover thread • Common for seaming knits, and can be used for wovens as well • Only 514 should be used on knits as it has better stretch Stitch Types 515, 516 – SAFETY STITCHES • A combination of an overedge stitch with a 401 chainstitch • 515: 4 -thread. .. uses a 503 overedge serge • 516: 5 -thread safety uses a 504 overlock stitch Stitch Types FLATLOCK – 600 CLASS • Formed using 2 – 4 needle threads plus 1 looper thread and 1 cover thread • Fabric edges butt together but do not overlap • Highly elastic seams with very low profile for maximum comfort • Efficient to sew • Very high thread consumption • Common for performance and scuba wear Stitch Types SPECIALTY... the same as 401, but is much more secure and durable • Ability to stretch • Excellent for setting elastic • Frequently used for topstitching and for lapped seams on high-wear garments like denim • Less thread passes through the fabric than on a lockstitch, which can reduce seam pucker • 404 – Zigzag chainstitch Stitch Types 406 and 407 – COVER STITCH • 406 uses 3 threads, 407 uses 4 • Excellent stretch... achine and needles, reducing friction and heat that can cause dam age LIFE SPAN Under optim conditions, thread will last about 18 m al onths before the lubricants start to break down and thread quality starts to deteriorate Unsurprisingly, m factories do not ost store thread in optim conditions and so this period is usually m al uch shorter NEEDLE BASICS • Needle sizing conventions • Different Needle... lockstitch • Can stretch, and can provide edge coverage • Used to apply lace or appliques • Used for bar tacks and button holes Stitch Types 101 - CHAINSTITCH • Formed using 1 thread only – no bobbin or looper • On its own it is only suitable as a basting stitch • Blind hemm is a variation of this stitch ing Stitch Types 401 - CHAINSTITCH • Formed using 2 threads – needle and looper • Appears the same... STITCHES • Pick Stitch - classic • Pick Stitch – on knits Stitch Types SPECIALTY STITCHES • Whip Stitch • Blanket Stitch (single buttonhole) Elements of a Good Seam • Tension • SPI • Thread Choice • Stitch Choice • Needle Type • Needle Condition • SeamWidth • Additional Elem ents . application. Needle -Thread Pairing • Seam Types • Stitch Types • Applications • What makes a good seam SEAM CONSTRUCTION • Superimposed Seams (basic simple seam) • Lapped Seams • Lapped felled seams • Flat Seams • Bound. clothes, and athletic wear Common thread types OTHER THREAD TYPES • Mono-filament ‘Invisible’ Thread • Embroidery Thread • Elastic Thread • Specialty – Lurex, Indigo • Locked Filament Thread • Glow. fabric and end use will determine the thread size and type, and needle type that you will use. The chosen thread will determine the needle size. There will be a range of possible thread sizes and