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FOLDERS USED IN SEWING MACHINES Belong to the category of WORK AIDS… Family of FOLDERS… Additional devices that can be added to basic sewing machines USES To improve productivity Improve or maintain quality standards Reduce training time of operator Reduce fatigue of operator COMMON TYPES include Guides Specialized presser feet Stitching jig Folders Binders What are WORK AIDS? Understanding FOLDERS… Generally used in situations where fabric must be folded prior to sewing Can be used for folds ranging from simple to complex Mostly separate devices attached to machine Enable Great increase in productivity High standard of control over quality of finish obtained Folders for SHIRTS SHOULDER and YOKE joining 1 POCKET hemming 2 CUFF HEMMING Long sleeve 3 CUFF HEMMING Short sleeve 4 PLEAT gauges 5 Closing SIDE SEAMS 6 SLEEVE PLACKET 7 SHOULDER and YOKE joining… YOKING FOLDER Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke Special foot is needed SHOULDER JOINING FOLDER Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead POCKET hemming… Used to hem the top of pockets CUFF hemming (short sleeve)… DOWNTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER UPTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines Stripes and plaids are easily matched Piping and other types of trim may also be added Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts Must be used on lockstitch machines CUFF hemming (long sleeve)… UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods Closing SIDE SEAM… Lap seam folders are used Folder with separate width adjustment are available Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely LAP SEAM FOLDER [...]... PLACKET… Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening Folders For JEANS 1 2 3 BELT LOOPS Close SIDE SEAMS Close INSEAMS 4 Set ZIPPERS 5 BOTTOM LEG hemming 6 Join RISER SEAM BELT LOOPS… Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material For blind stitch machines (overlap style)... stretched webbing and simultaneously applies it to the garment Single turn HEMMER… Single turn (Raw Edge) hemmers BARREL HEMMERS ( roll hemmers)… •Excellent for continuous Hemming on automatic sewing operations •Made for most two needle machines ZIPPER attachment for multi-needle machines Designed to give greater production, with greater uniformity, from a less skilled operator OPERATION The individual... margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity covered ELASTIC ATTACHMENT BARREL HEMMERS (roll hemmers) single TURN HEMMER ZIPPER attachment for Multi needle machines Multiple NEEDLE BANDING Covered ELASTIC ATTACHMENT… Designed for use with covered webbing in making a shirred waistband on sportswear, pants It folds banding... scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin Available for all lockstitch, needle feed and compound feed machines Turns the lining down and stitches it to the fly in one operation Top Scroll and Bottom Guide adjustable BOTTOM LEG hemming… Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments Has width adjustment and spring action for seams Join RISER SEAM… FEED OF THE ARM STYLE FLAT BED STYLE... operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity Close INSEAMS… LAP SEAM FOLDER WITH PIPING Used to attach ready made trim or piping to leg seam IMITATION LAP SEAM Produces an Imitation Lap Seam for decorative effects Set ZIPPERS… FLY FRONT FOLDER Used to attach and topstitch left zipper... greater uniformity, from a less skilled operator OPERATION The individual zipper is pushed through the guide to the foot The garment parts are then placed in the folders and the whole section is sewn at one time Multiple needle BANDING… •Designed for banding skirts, shorts, etc •Made with an adjustable gauges so that the amount of 'bite' on the garment can be varied . FOLDERS USED IN SEWING MACHINES Belong to the category of WORK AIDS… Family of FOLDERS Additional devices that can be added to basic sewing machines USES To improve. Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods Closing SIDE SEAM… Lap seam folders. Enable Great increase in productivity High standard of control over quality of finish obtained Folders for SHIRTS SHOULDER and YOKE joining 1 POCKET hemming 2 CUFF HEMMING Long sleeve 3 CUFF