© Student Handouts, © Student Handouts, By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune By, Sunil Talekar, Faculty, SOFT-Pune NEEDL NEEDL E E Functions of the needle Functions of the needle • To produce hole in the material To produce hole in the material • To carry the needle thread through To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop the material and there form a loop • To pass the needle thread through the To pass the needle thread through the loop loop SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS • BUTT BUTT • SHANK SHANK • SHOULDER SHOULDER • LONG GROOVE LONG GROOVE • SHORT GROOVE SHORT GROOVE • EYE EYE • NEEDLE POINT NEEDLE POINT • SCARF SCARF • BLADE BLADE PARTS OF THE NEEDLE PARTS OF THE NEEDLE SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SHOULDER SHOULDER • Intermediate between shank and the blade Intermediate between shank and the blade • It is also called shaft It is also called shaft SHANK SHANK • upper part of the needle upper part of the needle • may be cylindrical or have a flat side. may be cylindrical or have a flat side. • larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of larger in diameter than the rest of the needle for reason of strength strength BUTT BUTT • The end of the needle The end of the needle • The butt determine the length of the needle when it is fully The butt determine the length of the needle when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine. inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS BLADE BLADE • Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle Below the shoulder of the blade to the eye of the needle • Longest part of the needle. Longest part of the needle. • Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf. Accommodates the groove, the eye and the scarf. • The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point The blade reduces the fabric resistance as the needle point and its eye passes through the fabric and its eye passes through the fabric • Greatest amount of the friction . Greatest amount of the friction . SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS LONG GROVE LONG GROVE • Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle" thread Slit above needle eye, should be large enough to "cradle" thread for smooth stitches. for smooth stitches. • Provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn Provides a protective channel in which the thread is drawn through. through. • A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the A Correctly shaped long groove of a depth matched to the thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread. thread diameter, offers considerable protection to the thread. SHORT GROOVE SHORT GROOVE • It extends a little above and below the eye It extends a little above and below the eye • Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the Its function is to assist in the formation of the loop in the needle thread. needle thread. SCARF SCARF • Concave section above the eye of the needle Concave section above the eye of the needle • Indentation at back of needle. Indentation at back of needle. • A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to A long scarf helps eliminate skipped stitches by allowing bobbin hook to loop thread more easily. loop thread more easily. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS EYE EYE • Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. Hole in end of needle through which thread passes. • The hole through which the thread pass The hole through which the thread pass • Eye is located below the scarf Eye is located below the scarf • Needle size and type determine size and shape of eye. Needle size and type determine size and shape of eye. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS Point: minimizes the damage of the fabric Point: minimizes the damage of the fabric SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD SEWING NEEDLE AND THREAD IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO SMALL FOR THE THREAD • Thread will not pass freely through the eye Thread will not pass freely through the eye • Thread will not 't properly into the long groove. Thread will not 't properly into the long groove. • Thread will su*er from excessive abrasion. Thread will su*er from excessive abrasion. • Can lead to costly thread breakages in Can lead to costly thread breakages in production production. IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD IF THE NEEDLE IS TOO LARGE FOR THE THREAD • There will be poor control of the loop formation There will be poor control of the loop formation which may cause slip stitches. which may cause slip stitches. • It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for It will create holes in the fabric which are too big for the stitches and give an unattractive seam the stitches and give an unattractive seam appearance. appearance. • Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the Tends to give rise to damaged fabric along the stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along stitch line, and in closely woven fabrics, pucker along the seam line due to fabric distortion. the seam line due to fabric distortion. [...]... Configuration: Two needles on single shaft produce two rows of stitches Measurement between needles ranges from 1.6mm to 6mm, and needles come with universal, stretch, embroidery, denim, and Metallica points Troubleshooting: Be sure throat plate allows for distance between needles TRIPLE NEEDLE Uses: Same uses as for double needle Configuration: Cross bar on single shaft connects three needles to sew three... ballpoint skips stitches, try stretch needle MICROTEX & SHARP NEEDLES Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing Configuration: Has an acute point Troubleshooting: Essentially trouble-free, but fabric may require a Teflon, roller, or even/dual-feed presser foot LEATHER NEEDLE Uses: Excellent for sewing natural leather Configuration: Has slight cutting...NEEDLE POINTS Most machine needles will look similar but they will differ in their tips: Set/Spear point - These are used for most woven fabrics Ball point - These have a rounded tip and are used for knitted fabrics The rounded... BALLPOINT & STRETCH NEEDLES Uses: Ballpoint needle for heavier, looser sweater knits; stretch needle for highly elastic fabrics, like Spandex, or Lycra Configuration: Both have rounded points that penetrate between fabric threads rather than pierce them (Stretch-needle point is slightly less rounded than ballpoint.) Troubleshooting: Test-stitch knits with ballpoint, stretch, and universal needles to see... acute point, and modified shaft to sew without pushing fabric down into needle-plate hole Goes through fabric and meets bobbin hook better on dense woven fabrics Troubleshooting: If stitches skip when sewing very heavy fabrics, try larger needle and sew more slowly or walk needle through fabric (by turning hand crank) HANDICAP/SELF THREADING NEEDLE Uses: Enables easier threading for sewers with vision... practice free-motion stitching with heavy regular needle, paper, and dropped feed dogs Don't pull paper/fabric; instead gently guide it through stitching Wear safety glasses for free-motion work, since needles often break Thanks . through the To pass the needle thread through the loop loop SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE PARTS • BUTT BUTT • SHANK SHANK • SHOULDER SHOULDER • LONG. when it is fully inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine. inserted into the needle bar of the sewing machine. SEWING NEEDLE PARTS SEWING NEEDLE PARTS BLADE BLADE • Below the shoulder. STRETCH NEEDLES BALLPOINT & STRETCH NEEDLES Uses: Uses: Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; Sewing microfiber, silk, synthetic leather; precisely stitching edges; and heirloom sewing. precisely