Definition of Marker Making

Marker Making Marker Making  Definition: Definition: precise arrangement of pattern pieces precise arrangement of pattern pieces or or process of determining the most process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces efficient layout of pattern pieces Points to be considered before Points to be considered before marker making: marker making: • • Fabric width must be higher than marker width Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 inch) (1/2 inch)  Fabric length must be higher than marker length. Fabric length must be higher than marker length.  Length of the cutting table. Length of the cutting table.  Production planning. Production planning.  When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the line cloth, the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric. knitted fabric. Marker Marker Marker Making Marker Making  Marker Efficiency: Marker Efficiency: the percentage of the total the percentage of the total fabric that is fabric that is actually used actually used in garment parts. in garment parts. Area of pattern in the marker Area of pattern in the marker Marker Efficiency = Marker Efficiency = X 100% X 100% Total area of the marker Total area of the marker plan plan Marker Marker  Factors influencing Marker efficiency: Factors influencing Marker efficiency: • • Marker planner: Marker planner: competency, experience, honesty and technical competency, experience, honesty and technical knowledge of the marker planner knowledge of the marker planner • • Size of the garments: Size of the garments: Smaller and larger garment sizes Smaller and larger garment sizes Marker ↓ Marker ↓ Efficiency Efficiency M M edium garment sizes edium garment sizes ↑ ↑ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency • • Numbers of sizes in a style: Numbers of sizes in a style: F F ewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓ ↓ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency M M edium numbers of sizes edium numbers of sizes ↑ ↑ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency Plotter Plotter Marker Making Marker Making • • Marker length: Marker length: Higher marker length Marker ↑ Higher marker length Marker ↑ Efficiency. Efficiency. • • Pattern Engineering: Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased Marker efficiency can be increased by changing pattern design of by changing pattern design of particular parts of the garments. particular parts of the garments. • • Fabric characteristics: Fabric characteristics: Usually symmetrical fabric Usually symmetrical fabric ↑ ↑ Marker Marker Efficiency Efficiency Asymmetric fabric Lower marker ↓ Asymmetric fabric Lower marker ↓ efficiency. efficiency. Marker Making Marker Making • • Marker making method: Marker making method: Computerized method Marker ↑ Computerized method Marker ↑ Efficiency Efficiency Manual method Marker Efficiency↓ Manual method Marker Efficiency↓ • • Marker width: Marker width: ↑ ↑ marker width M.E. and easier ↑ marker width M.E. and easier ↑ marker plan marker plan Methods of marker making Methods of marker making  A. Manual method. A. Manual method. In this process, marker can be made in two ways In this process, marker can be made in two ways a. a. By using full size pattern: By using full size pattern: -full size pattern pieces on marker -full size pattern pieces on marker paper paper or or -directly on the top ply of the fabric in a -directly on the top ply of the fabric in a spread spread b. b. By using miniaturized pattern: By using miniaturized pattern: -full size pattern pieces are -full size pattern pieces are reduced reduced to to 1/5 of its original size 1/5 of its original size by using pantograph by using pantograph -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -Marker planning is done by using those -Marker planning is done by using those miniaturized patterns miniaturized patterns -reproduced full size using the mini-marker as -reproduced full size using the mini-marker as a reference. a reference. Methods of marker making Methods of marker making  Area Covered by pattern measured by Area Covered by pattern measured by planimeter to get Marker efficiency. planimeter to get Marker efficiency.  higher marker efficiency as control higher marker efficiency as control over the marker is better than the full over the marker is better than the full size pattern size pattern  rapidly being replaced by rapidly being replaced by computerized method computerized method Pantograph Pantograph [...]...Features of manual marker making    time consuming and require a great deal of space errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the marker and traced it Methods of marker making B computerized marker making  ... ‘side to side’ shade variation, pattern pieces of a size of garments are laid together in accordance to the shade of the fabric a b c Constraints of Marker making: Grain Line : Hang and drape of the garment is depending on the matching of grain line To maintain grain line is one of the biggest constraints to achieve higher marker efficiency Characteristics of the fabric: Special attention required to... print etc Design of the garments: Garments from check or stripe fabric requires mirror image (matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts of the garment) Constraints of Marker making: d Cutting Quality: Marker should be made carefully so that cutting blade can move easily in the lay e Production Planning: production planning is a constraint of marker making as numbers of pieces of different sizes... outside marker   Ends of ply losses: For the extensibility of the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2 cm allowances is required in each end of the each ply Loss of fabric ends: during preparation of the fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric roll are separated by cutting Fabric wastage outside marker   Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges along width The amount of cut... marker  Open Marker: Markers made with full pattern pieces  Closed marker: Markers made with full pattern pieces Modes of marker A nap-either-way: symmetric, non directional fabrics, considering only grain line B nap-one-way: asymmetrical and directional fabrics, all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction C nap-up-and-down: some directional fabrics all the pattern pieces of one size... Advantages of computerized method      Increases in material efficiency with subsequent decreases in material waste, Time and labor savings in making markers; Improvements in overall marker quality; Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and Fast, precise cost proposals for clients Disadvantages of computerized method:   Initial investment is high Skilled operator is required Types of marker. .. range of the pattern pieces are shown on top Methods of Drawing a Marker  3 Computerized Drawing: – These pieces can be rotated, reversed and moved into place – The computer can calculate marker efficiency – The completed marker is then drawn using a linked digital plotter – These systems are extremely quick and accurate and an unlimited quantity of markers can be produced and/or reproduced Methods of. .. improperly Methods of Duplicating a Marker:  c Photographic method: With the photographic method, the original marker is set onto a light sensitive paper using ultraviolet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor This method is quick and clean and produces unlimited numbers of duplications Methods of Duplicating a Marker:  d Perforated method: obsolete technique that involves punching a series of perforation... length Methods of Drawing a Marker  1 Marking directly on the fabric a Drawing by Chalk or pencil: mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax not allow copying least accurate method Not applicable method for pile or woolen fabric Methods of Drawing a Marker B Paint Spray: fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns... impression in the lower layer – Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is difficult, labour intensive process Methods of Duplicating a Marker:  b Spirit duplicating: working procedure is same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox machine – Only significant difference is that the size of the machine – Suitable for copying 40-50 pieces – Not suitable for higher marker width – May produce defective copy if master . • Marker width: Marker width: ↑ ↑ marker width M.E. and easier ↑ marker width M.E. and easier ↑ marker plan marker plan Methods of marker making Methods of marker making  A. Manual. Types of marker Types of marker  Open Marker: Open Marker: Markers made with full pattern pieces Markers made with full pattern pieces  Closed marker: Closed marker: Markers made. ↓ ↓ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency M M edium numbers of sizes edium numbers of sizes ↑ ↑ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency Plotter Plotter Marker Making Marker Making •