Fabric Structure Design

[...]... to denote one repeat of a weave on design paper 2.5 BASIC ELEMENTS OF A WOVEN DESIGN The three basic elements in a woven design are : (i) Design (ii) Draft or drawing plan (iii) Peg or lifting plan The design indicates the interlacement of warp and weft threads in the repeat of the design It is made up of a number of squares, which constitute the repeat size of a design The vertical direction of the... 14 Fabric Structure and Design X X X B X X X C D Fig 2.9 Various Methods of representing the Denting Plans At A, is shown a matt weave design The different denting plans for this design are shown at B, C, and D However the type of denting plans shown at B is most commonly used REVIEW QUESTIONS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 How are woven fabrics classified? What are the basic elements of woven design? ... on 10 Fabric Structure and Design One important feature of the straight draft that distinguishes it from other types of draft plans is that the peg or lifting plan is same as the design Hence it is sufficient to indicate only the design Fig 2.3 shows the straight draft 4 3 1 X X X 1 X X X 2 X X X X X X 2 3 4 Repeat Fig 2.3 2.6.2 Straight Draft Skip draft The skip draft is suitable for weaving fabrics... order of lifting or lowering the required number of healds for a pick In other words it helps in forming the design or pattern in a fabric (v) It determines the warp thread density in a fabric, i.e the numbers of heald wires per inch determine the warp thread density per inch 4 Fabric Structure and Design 1.6.2 Sley or lay It is made of wood and consists of the sley race or race board, reed cap and metal... fabric For the sake of convenience the warp threads are termed as ends and the weft as picks or fillings 2.2 CLASSIFICATION OF WOVEN STRUCTURES Woven structures are classified into the following categories: (i) Simple structures (ii) Compound structures In case of simple structures, there is only one series of warp and weft threads These threads interlace with one another perpendicularly All the neighbouring... 1 2 WOVEN DESIGN FUNDAMENTALS 7 3 PLAIN WEAVES 16 4 TWILL WEAVES 22 5 HONEY COMB WEAVES 37 6 HUCK A BACK WEAVES 42 7 CREPE WEAVE 45 8 BEDFORD CORDS 50 9 WELTS AND PIQUES 56 10 MOCK LENO WEAVES 62 11 BACKED FABRICS 67 12 PILE FABRICS 73 13 EXTRA WARP AND EXTRA WEFT FIGURED FABRICS 92 14 DOUBLE CLOTHS 100 15 BASIC ASPECTS OF COLOURS AND ITS EFFECTS 116 APPENDICES 129 GLOSSARY OF IMPORTANT FABRIC TERMS... 2 CHAPTER Woven Design Fundamentals 2.1 INTRODUCTION A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads These threads are interlaced with one another according to the type of weave or design The warp threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of the fabric and the weft threads are those that run transversely across the fabric For the sake... introduce variety into apparently rigid mechanical systems of operation In normal practice the designer has to produce a range of designs for looms with a known pattern scope This usually involves the draft and the lifting plan construction A similar procedure is adopted when the designer is asked to reproduce a specific design from a sample The weave in the sample is analysed and a suitable draft and lifting... straight draft, the peg plan will be the same as the design Hence no peg plan is necessary in the case of a straight draft The design, draft and peg plan are illustrated with the aid of an example shown below (Fig 2.2) Drafting Plan 4 X 3 2 X X 1 X 4 X 3 X 2 X X X 1 X 1 4 X X 3 X 3 4 Design X 1 2 2 X 1 X X X X 2 3 4 Peg Plan Fig 2.2 Basic elements of a Woven Design (2/2 twill weave) 2.6 TYPES OF DRAFT PLANS... extensively employed for window blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief 20 Fabric Structure and Design 3.9 MATT RIB WEAVES These weaves are also variously known as hopsack or basket weaves The matt rib structures result from extending the plain weave in both directions The regular and irregular types are shown in Fig 3.4 matt weaves -regular . the design or pattern in a fabric. (v) It determines the warp thread density in a fabric, i.e. the numbers of heald wires per inch deter- mine the warp thread density per inch. 4 Fabric Structure. fillings. 2.2 CLASSIFICATION OF WOVEN STRUCTURES Woven structures are classified into the following categories: (i) Simple structures (ii) Compound structures In case of simple structures, there is only. BACKED FABRICS 67 12. PILE FABRICS 73 13. EXTRA WARP AND EXTRA WEFT FIGURED FABRICS 92 14. DOUBLE CLOTHS 100 15. BASIC ASPECTS OF COLOURS AND ITS EFFECTS 116 APPENDICES 129 GLOSSARY OF IMPORTANT FABRIC