PROFESSIONAL BAK ING Fourth Edition WAYNE GISSLEN JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. F e a t u r i n g r e c i p e s f r o m Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Culinaire Paris—1895 with a foreword by André J. Cointreau President, Le Cordon Bleu 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page III 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page VI PROFESSIONAL BAKING 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page I Photography by J. Gerard Smith 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page II PROFESSIONAL BAK ING Fourth Edition WAYNE GISSLEN JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. F e a t u r i n g r e c i p e s f r o m Le Cordon Bleu L’Art Culinaire Paris—1895 with a foreword by André J. Cointreau President, Le Cordon Bleu 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page III Le Cordon Bleu logo is a registered trademark of Le Cordon Bleu B.V. This book is printed on acid-free paper. ∞ Copyright © 2005 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc.All rights reserved Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey Published simultaneously in Canada Photographs on pages 16, 19, 73, and 80 were taken at Turtle Bread Company, Minneapolis, Minnesota. Design and page makeup adapted from the third edition by Lee Goldstein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,or transmitted in any form or by any means,electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning, or otherwise, except as permitted under Section 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act,without either the prior written permission of the Publisher,or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, Inc., 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, (978) 750-8400, fax (978) 750-4470, or on the web at www.copyright.com.Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Permissions Department,John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 111 River Street, Hoboken, NJ 07030, (201) 748-6011, fax (201) 748-6008, e-mail: permcoordinator@wiley.com. Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty:While the publisher and author have used their best efforts in preparing this book, they make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this book and specifically disclaim any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. No warranty may be created or extended by sales representatives or written sales materials. The advice and strategies contained herein may not be suitable for your situation. You should consult with a professional where appropriate. Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damages, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages. For general information on our other products and services or for technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the United States at (800) 762-2974, outside the United States at (317) 572-3993 or fax (317) 572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.For more information about Wiley products, visit our web site at www.wiley.com. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data: Gisslen,Wayne, 1946– Professional baking / Wayne Gisslen.—4 th ed. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 0-471-46427-9 (College)—ISBN 0-471-46426-0:(alk. paper) 1. Baking. 2. Food presentation. I.Title. TX763.G47 2005 641.8’15—dc22 2003065002 Printed in the United States of America 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page IV This book is dedicated to Anne and Jim Smith and their family. 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page V 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page VI Recipe Contents xiii About Le Cordon Bleu xxiii Foreword xxv Preface xxvii CHAPTER 1 BASIC PRINCIPLES 3 Baking—Historical Background 4 Formulas and Measurement 6 Mixing and Gluten Development 12 The Baking Process 13 Staling 14 CHAPTER 2 BAKING AND PASTRY EQUIPMENT 17 Large Equipment 18 Pans, Containers, and Molds 22 Hand Tools 25 Miscellaneous Tools and Equipment 26 CHAPTER 3 INGREDIENTS 29 Wheat Flour 30 Other Flours, Meals, and Starches 35 Sugars 37 Fats 40 Milk and Milk Products 43 Eggs 47 Leavening Agents 50 Jelling Agents 53 Fruits and Nuts 55 Chocolate and Cocoa 57 Salt, Spices, and Flavorings 60 Contents VII 464279 FM.qxd 2/26/04 9:30 AM Page VII VIII Contents CHAPTER 4 UNDERSTANDING YEAST DOUGHS 65 Yeast Product Types 66 Steps in Yeast Dough Production 67 Types of Dough-Making Processes 74 Controlling Fermentation 75 Bread Faults and Their Causes 78 CHAPTER 5 UNDERSTANDING ARTISAN BREADS 81 What Is Artisan Bread? 82 Flour 83 Pre-ferments and Sourdough Starters 84 Autolyse 89 Fermentation 90 Baking 90 Artisan Bread Formulas 91 CHAPTER 6 LEAN YEAST DOUGHS 93 Introduction to Handcrafted Breads 94 Crisp-Crusted Bread Formulas 94 Soft-Crusted Bread and Rye Bread Formulas 100 Sourdough Formulas and Specialty Breads for the Artisan Baker 104 Makeup Techniques 120 CHAPTER 7 RICH YEAST DOUGHS 135 Sweet Dough and Rich Dough Formulas 136 Rolled-in Dough Formulas 142 Fillings and Toppings 146 Makeup Techniques 152 CHAPTER 8 QUICK BREADS 165 Mixing and Production Methods 166 Formulas 169 CHAPTER 9 DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS, PANCAKES, AND WAFFLES 183 Doughnuts 184 Fritters 189 Pancakes and Waffles 194 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page VIII [...]... renaissance for nearly two decades This new fourth edition continues my effort to make the book ever more useful to a growing readership The previous edition, as long-time readers know, was a substantial revision, with new color photos, new chapters, new formulas, new advanced material on pastry making and decorative work, and a total redesign.The fourth edition is a further refinement and expansion,... difficulties instructors face, and this has helped me develop the text, from edition to edition, into a more inclusive and flexible teaching and learning tool.These reviewers have truly been an integral part of the development of Professional Baking from the first edition, and I am grateful to them Most of the changes and additions to the fourth edition have been in response to their input To give them due recognition,... of Le Cordon Bleu, which debuted in the third edition, continues here Of the approximately 700 formulas in the book, more than 175 are from the chefs at Le Cordon Bleu in London and Paris This red logo indicates formulas that I have developed and tested This blue logo indicates formulas that were developed and tested by Le Cordon Bleu WHAT’S NEW The fourth edition of Professional Baking is the fruit... XXIII 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page XXIV 464279 FM.qxd 2/26/04 9:30 AM Page XXV Foreword L e Cordon Bleu—L’Art Culinaire is pleased to continue its partnership with author Wayne Gisslen on the fourth edition of Professional Baking This collaboration underlines the importance of classic pâtisserie and baking techniques at the service of the global gastronomic world It has always been the view of... techniques, processes, and methods, students gain the skills and confidence necessary to become not only excellent professionals but also creators of their own works of art Le Cordon Bleu sees the fourth edition of Professional Baking as an important tool in this endeavor Founded in Paris in 1895, Le Cordon Bleu today encompasses 22 schools in 12 countries and spans five continents Our chef-instructors... book is a necessary tool for both the professional and the home kitchen In this new edition, Le Cordon Bleu chefs and Wayne Gisslen combine their knowledge and experience to enhance a definitive text and reference book We are glad to continue our partnership and friendship, both of which have strengthened with each edition and will continue to strengthen with other projects ANDRÉ J COINTREAU President... ideas for its improvement Second, I would like to express my gratitude to the staff of Le Cordon Bleu, whose participation made such a great improvement in the previous edition and whose contributions still form an important part of this new edition Thanks especially to André Cointreau, president of Le Cordon Bleu,for making this collaboration possible Julie Walsh and Laurent Duchêne are the two remarkable... and recipes in this book, techniques for converting yield, and U.S and metric measurements and bakers’ percentages FEATURES CD-ROM The CD-ROM, designed to complement the book, accompanies the academic edition of this book and utilizes ChefTec Tutor™ software, a professional-level XXIX software program used in the food service industry The CD-ROM contains nearly 700 formulas from this book, plus a range... all my projects for more than twenty years, and his work is such an important part of these texts that he is truly a partner in their development Once again his work has added immeasurably to this new edition I would like to thank not only Jim but also his great team,including Anne Smith and Ryan Basten,for the great working relationship and friendship that has developed Turtle Bread Company in Minneapolis,... their shop I am grateful to the staff and especially to Solveig Tofte for their assistance and hospitality Testing new formulas and recipes and retesting old ones is an important part of the work of a new edition, and I would like to extend my thanks to Jennifer Peck for her skilled and knowledgeable assistance both in recipe testing and in preparation for photography I would like to extend recognition . PROFESSIONAL BAK ING Fourth Edition WAYNE GISSLEN JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. F e a t u r i n g r e c i p e s f r o m Le. I Photography by J. Gerard Smith 464279 FM.qxd 1/28/04 2:27 PM Page II PROFESSIONAL BAK ING Fourth Edition WAYNE GISSLEN JOHN WILEY & SONS, INC. F e a t u r i n g r e c i p e s f r o m Le. at Turtle Bread Company, Minneapolis, Minnesota. Design and page makeup adapted from the third edition by Lee Goldstein. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,or