CÁCH DOWN TRA Jacket pptx

1 1 HOW TO INSPECT HOW TO INSPECT DOWN JACKET DOWN JACKET General details General details 2 2 IMPORTANT IMPORTANT • Inspection is divided into 3 stages Inspection is divided into 3 stages or steps : or steps : 1. Panel inspection. 1. Panel inspection. 2. In line sewing inspection. 2. In line sewing inspection. 3. Finish garment inspection. 3. Finish garment inspection. * During every stage of inspection * During every stage of inspection PPS with comments from QA, PPS with comments from QA, PDC, QC file complete with all PDC, QC file complete with all details regarding material & details regarding material & accessories, all approvals & stds. accessories, all approvals & stds. for bulk production & PP Meeting for bulk production & PP Meeting report. report. 3 3 IMPORTANT IMPORTANT Always send first sewing out put to Asmara for wash test : Always send first sewing out put to Asmara for wash test : 1. 1. To test for “ DOWN LEAKAGE “ ( feathers coming out or no ). To test for “ DOWN LEAKAGE “ ( feathers coming out or no ). 2. 2. To test for “ SMELL “ ( smell of the feathers ). To test for “ SMELL “ ( smell of the feathers ). 3. 3. To test for “ Oil leakage” ( oil from the feathers ) To test for “ Oil leakage” ( oil from the feathers ) 4. 4. To test for “ Water mark”( after washing ) To test for “ Water mark”( after washing ) * During the process * During the process of drying in tumbler of drying in tumbler use tennis balls. use tennis balls. 4 4 1. PANEL INSPECTION 1. PANEL INSPECTION 1. 1. always keep the sealed PPS, qc file, PDC for reference when doing always keep the sealed PPS, qc file, PDC for reference when doing inspections. inspections. • 2. 2. Check fabric : Check fabric : • Body / out shell ( 100 % polyester atau Taslan ). Body / out shell ( 100 % polyester atau Taslan ). • Lining body ( N/210T PD soft ). Lining body ( N/210T PD soft ). • Down bag ( PL 240 D/P both cire or Tyfex ). Down bag ( PL 240 D/P both cire or Tyfex ). • Brushed cotton sheeting for pocketing. Brushed cotton sheeting for pocketing. • Rib 2x2 for collar and cuffs. Rib 2x2 for collar and cuffs. • 3. Check quality of interlining and its use ( cx 3 or some other & position ). 3. Check quality of interlining and its use ( cx 3 or some other & position ). • > Interlining for light color body ( white / yellow / orange / red ) s/b > Interlining for light color body ( white / yellow / orange / red ) s/b using white color interlining to avoid Shading. using white color interlining to avoid Shading. • > Position front plaket, welt pocket, collar tape, facing of hood, facing > Position front plaket, welt pocket, collar tape, facing of hood, facing of collar, inside facing of body, bottom hem, inside flap pocket. of collar, inside facing of body, bottom hem, inside flap pocket. • 4. Check N/P ( 40 / 60 / 80 ) gram and position. 4. Check N/P ( 40 / 60 / 80 ) gram and position. • 5. Check cutting accuracy : 5. Check cutting accuracy : • > Body. > Body. • > Lining. > Lining. • > Down bag > Down bag • > Cotton brush for pocketing. > Cotton brush for pocketing. • > Rib for collar & cuffs. > Rib for collar & cuffs. 5 5 2. IN LINE INSPECTION : 2. IN LINE INSPECTION : • 1. 1. Check Accessories : Check Accessories : • Thread : for body top Thread : for body top stitching / bobbin , over stitching / bobbin , over lock, embro, lining, lock, embro, lining, numbering and color s/b numbering and color s/b as per standard. as per standard. • Labeling : Main / size / Labeling : Main / size / care label and other label care label and other label s/b as per standard. s/b as per standard. • Embro & printing : Embro & printing : Artwork / color / size/ azo Artwork / color / size/ azo free test and position s/b free test and position s/b as per standard. as per standard. • Zipper / snap button / Zipper / snap button / eyelet / azo free test , s/b eyelet / azo free test , s/b as per standard. All metal as per standard. All metal accessories should be accessories should be nickel free. nickel free. • Piping / elastic string / Piping / elastic string / stopper plastic /Velcro stopper plastic /Velcro tape and s/b azo free test. tape and s/b azo free test. 6 6 Inline inspection Inline inspection • 3. 3. jacket is divided into 2 jacket is divided into 2 main parts. 1.) OUT SHELL / main parts. 1.) OUT SHELL / BODY & 2.) LINING. BODY & 2.) LINING. • 4. Check OUT SHELL / BODY 4. Check OUT SHELL / BODY ( hood/front & ( hood/front & back back body / sleeve ), Check body / sleeve ), Check LINING ( hood / front & LINING ( hood / front & back body / sleeve ). back body / sleeve ). 7 7 Inline inspection Inline inspection • 5. Check stitch construction of down 5. Check stitch construction of down bag in all components of jacket bag in all components of jacket ( Hood / Body / Lining ), should be as ( Hood / Body / Lining ), should be as per approved PPS and comments. per approved PPS and comments. – Down bag could be stitched through n Down bag could be stitched through n through with out shell only, and all through with out shell only, and all components will be like this. ( Hood, front / components will be like this. ( Hood, front / back body, and sleeve ). back body, and sleeve ). – Down bag could be stitched through n Down bag could be stitched through n through shell & lining both, an all components through shell & lining both, an all components will be like this ( Hood, front / back body, and will be like this ( Hood, front / back body, and sleeve ). sleeve ). 8 8 Inline inspection Inline inspection • - - all construction should be as per sample or standard. all construction should be as per sample or standard. • * - SPI for stitching down bag should be dense ( normally 11 or 12 * - SPI for stitching down bag should be dense ( normally 11 or 12 stitches per inch ). stitches per inch ). • usually down bag is stitched trough n through out shell only and usually down bag is stitched trough n through out shell only and using thread 60/3 ( SPI 10 ). using thread 60/3 ( SPI 10 ). • thread 60/3 is used for all stitching unless specified otherwise by thread 60/3 is used for all stitching unless specified otherwise by the buyer ( top stitch / bobbin / overlock ). the buyer ( top stitch / bobbin / overlock ). 9 9 Inline inspection Inline inspection 7. There are 2 color of 7. There are 2 color of duck down : duck down : * * GREY > GREY > * WHITE >> * WHITE >> 10 10 Inline inspection Inline inspection 8. Check quality of duck down : ( 50/50, 8. Check quality of duck down : ( 50/50, 70/30, 80/20, 90/10 ). 70/30, 80/20, 90/10 ). – 50/50 means : ( 50 % downs & 50 % quills ). 50/50 means : ( 50 % downs & 50 % quills ). – 70/30 means : ( 70 % downs & 30 % quills ). 70/30 means : ( 70 % downs & 30 % quills ). – 80/20 means : ( 80 % downs & 20 % quills ). 80/20 means : ( 80 % downs & 20 % quills ). – 90/10 means : ( 90 % downs & 10 % quills ). 90/10 means : ( 90 % downs & 10 % quills ). – Tom Tailor generally use 50/50 , Grey duck down or Tom Tailor generally use 50/50 , Grey duck down or White duck down ). White duck down ). [...]... ( for eg Sleeve has 4 parts) 11 12 Inline inspection 13 After filling duck down properly for the components, the down bag is closed so that the downs don’t come out 14 After closing the down bag, it is beaten lightly so that the downs are spread evenly in all the components and parts – at the same time checking whether the down bag is closed properly and secure enough or not If there are any open seams... size for the folded article – not too loose or not too tight 32 Sample of defects/problems • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • * Less weight of downs * Pleated inside down bag *Grey duck down see through on light body color * Duck down visible out – down leakage * Wavy front placket * Needle hole * Broken printing * Hole cut * Fabric defect ( shell / lining ) * Oil / dirty / stain * Twisting collar...Inline inspection 9 Before putting the down/ feathers in the components or panels, the downs should be dried properly in the sunlight so that optimum fluffiness is obtained 10 Special for light color body ( white / pink / yellow / orange ), s/b using white duck down to avoid see through 11 Inline inspection Check duck down weight in the filling room ( should be as per buyer requirement... put the garment flat on table & examine styling details 21 3 INSPECTION GARMENT FULL • Inspection room ( 5X5 ) meter – clean – lighting standard ( day light / CWF ) – Size of the table enough to check down jacket, standing – Temperature of the room comfortable( 28 degree ) 22 • • • • Check all material & accessories as per standard in PDC Garment on the table flat alongwith PPS Check bulkiness compare... body / sleeve ) : – – – Check for even distribution of downs in all parts Check join rib to out shell collar, rib should be slightly stretched when joining to body ( be careful twisting & puckering ) Check join collar to body ( s/b follow notches, flat / relax and balance left / right ) 17 Inline inspection – Check Front placket ( s/b flat / relax / straight ) – Check attachment snap button on front placket... sure that the process of closing the sleeve is not missed out Check Hood / left – right armhole / left – right sleeve / left – right side seam / bottom, all should be balanced Lining is very sensitive, extra careful for sharp objects during production, ( can cause pulled yarn, damage ) Very important “ LINING should be longer than OUT SHELL “ ( generally 1 cm longer than the out shell ) 29 MEASUREMENT... Garment Non Wash ) • for inline measurements take all sizes • ( minimum 3 pcs per size per color ) for final only critical , ( front / back length, chest, waist, bottom, neck opening, shoulder, armhole straight, sleeve length, hood length, hood width ) 30 PACKING • 1.Checking packaging and labeling : * Check size and quality of the carton * Carton must be properly sealed with security tape * Carton must... secure enough or not If there are any open seams or parts not closed properly , it is given back for repair 13 Inline inspection 15 Components are then sent to sewing for assembeling 16.Check for pleated down bag, specially for body part for light color fabrics due to see through 14 Inline inspection 18 Check Hood ( Lining ) : > Check the shape of hood(s/b follow pattern) > Check snap button ( position . filling duck down After filling duck down properly for the properly for the components, the down bag components, the down bag is closed so that the downs is closed so that the downs don’t. , Grey duck down or Tom Tailor generally use 50/50 , Grey duck down or White duck down ). White duck down ). 11 11 Inline inspection Inline inspection 9. 9. Before putting the down/ feathers. duck down : duck down : * * GREY > GREY > * WHITE >> * WHITE >> 10 10 Inline inspection Inline inspection 8. Check quality of duck down : ( 50/50, 8. Check quality of duck down